Experienced rabbit breeders should be aware of how rabbit cages are built. do it yourself. Only in this case, you can be sure that eared pets will not be endangered by poor-quality materials or improper manufacturing process. There are no particularly specific conditions for keeping rabbits, one has only to take into account that their wild counterparts live in ordinary burrows. Since there is nothing complicated in how to build a rabbit cage with your own hands, even novice rabbit farmers can do it.
Components of the cell and materials used
Any cage intended for rabbits must be equipped in a certain way. It must contain the following parts:
- The frame and supports on which the entire structure rests are made of wood blocks. In order for rabbits to be kept outside from rodents, cats and dogs, it is worth placing their cage at a height of about 70 cm from the ground.
- Walls made of plywood, board or mesh. For beauty, you can finish the walls outside plastic or wooden slats. For the convenience of caring for the cell in facade parts make two doors (one from the grid, the other from the board).
- Floor most often made of slats or mesh. Some rabbit breeders arrange a solid floor, only in the back they put a net to remove waste through it. There are adherents different materials who learn from experience what is best for animals kept in different conditions.
- The roof is most often made out with the same material as the walls, and to protect against conditions environment when kept outdoors, you can install an additional cover from any roofing material.
When creating cages for rabbits, it is not recommended to use metal. In the heat, the iron is heated, which causes inconvenience for animals, and in the cold, they can easily freeze to such a coating. Even when creating the simplest do-it-yourself rabbit cage, you need to make sure that all the details are smooth and not traumatic. Any mesh defects should be eliminated, and it is better to process the tree with sandpaper.
Various designs
Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, you should find out what designs exist for keeping them. Now there are several types of structures:
1. An ordinary cage for keeping rabbits is represented by a kind of box on high legs with two doors. Inside, the space is delimited into aft and nesting compartments, and a manhole is equipped between them. Cages should be equipped with feeders and drinkers of various structures, as well as sufficient space for the activity of the animal. If the most popular do-it-yourself rabbit cage is made, its scheme should look something like this:
Some sizes can be slightly increased based on the breed of rabbits, but in most cases, these indicators are suitable for adults.
Of course, there are some differences when creating cages for young animals, pregnant and lactating females, adults, but in general they are all built according to the same scheme. To keep two individuals in one cage, it is worth slightly increasing its size.
2. The cell design proposed by I.N. Mikhailov. Mikhailov's cages for rabbits are whole mini-farms or, as they are called in scientific sources, aggregates for reproduction. Its units are equipped ventilation systems, original feeders, many manholes and shelves, electrically heated uterine compartments and drinkers, manure self-removal systems, etc. The head farm is constantly improving its cages, so followers should visit the authors' farm regularly to get an idea of the latest developments in the field of acceleration rabbit breeding.
3. Unlike the previous unit, the design proposed by another author, N.I., took root among the people. Zolotukhin. Creating a do-it-yourself Zolotukhin cage for rabbits is not a very complicated process, and besides, the author does not think to hide his ideas. From above, its design looks like this:
The floor is made of plywood or flat slate, not from the grid. A net about 10-15 cm wide is used only on the floor at the back of the cage, as this is where rabbits most often urinate. Zolotukhin's structures are three-tiered: two cages in three floors, and each floor above is shifted back to the distance of the grid in the floor - so the waste products of rabbits do not interfere with the inhabitants of the cells below. Also hallmark of these cells is the absence of a stationary mother liquor: in winter, a house-burrow is placed in the cage, and in summer the rabbit makes a nest right in the hay.
Craftsmen create other designs with different amount tiers and with different equipment, using combinations of the most suitable, in their opinion, the components of the cage and building materials.
Stages of creation
It is worth considering in detail the process of creating the simplest single cage for a rabbit (more complex designs are also based on this approach):
- First you need to choose a place where the rabbitry will be located. It should be protected from wind and drafts as much as possible.
- The next thing you need to create a do-it-yourself rabbit cage is drawings. They take into account the purpose of a particular cell, its various content, the structure of the whole structure. When determining the size, it is worth relying on the dimensions of a particular breed, but most often they take dimensions of 150 * 70 * 70 cm.
- Further, according to the dimensions, a frame is made of bars. If in the front part the height of the cage is usually 60-70 cm, then in the back part the height is taken less (so that the roof turns out at an angle).
- The frame is sheathed with plywood, boards or other selected material. Inside, the cage is divided by a partition into nesting and aft compartments, and a hole with a diameter of 20 cm is cut out in the partition. So that the rabbits do not gnaw at the partition, it is better to upholster the hole with tin.
- After the walls, they begin to make a roof (for ease of maintenance, it is better to make it removable).
- On the facade of the cage hang doors, and the door to the aft compartment is made of mesh, and to the nest compartment - from boards.
- When keeping rabbits outside, you can attach an additional structure from a walking net to the back of the cage. If you correctly think over the design of ladders and shelves, you can provide the rabbit with the opportunity to sometimes eat pasture. shelves, etc.),
- tall and solid pallet(this is important both for the pet itself, since its paws do not have pads, and for the owner, so that the contents of the cage are not scattered around),
- the absence of sharp elements, slippery surfaces, parts treated with varnish or paint for the safety of the eared animal.
For apartment maintenance, cages are usually bought because they are quite beautiful. But beauty does not always mean convenience for the pet, and therefore it makes sense to think about how to make a cage for a decorative rabbit with your own hands. You can easily make a cage that will look like a purchased version from a fairly high rectangular basin (to create a pallet) and a galvanized mesh with cells no larger than 25 * 25 mm.
Such a mesh easily bends and does not break, making it easy to make a parallelepiped without a bottom part, and insert the lower ends of the wire into pre-made holes on the side of the basin. There is a door on one of the walls. To prevent the floor from being slippery, you can pour sawdust into the cage or put corrugated cardboard on the bottom. At the end, you need to place a drinking bowl, a feeder, a ladder and other entertainment for an eared pet in the cage.
Breeding rabbits with properly organized content can bring good dividends.
Animal cages must be made of high quality materials. The normal life of the animal depends on compliance with these requirements.
The main advantage of rabbits is their unpretentiousness. They have enough high stability to various diseases. Properly built housing creates a comfortable existence for the animal.
Nursery design
The right drawings for rabbit cages allow you to build a good home for the whole family.
Animal kennel consists of:
- frame;
- ceiling covering;
- side walls;
- central door;
- feeders.
How to make cages for rabbits with your own hands?
If the finished nursery is located on the street, then the height of the support should be 110 cm. High dwellings for rabbits help protect animals from various predators.
The side walls are made of dense plywood or fine mesh. For feeding rabbits, it is recommended to use a fine mesh or thin slats.
The presence of holes allows you to get rid of food debris, thereby preventing their rapid spoilage.
The roof for the cages must be made of durable waterproof material. Suitable for this: slate, roofing material; polycarbonate.
Materials for the production of dwellings should not contain sharp edges and chips.
cell types
Nursery designs have some differences among themselves.
Mainly:
- cells with a queen cell;
- nursery according to the technology of I. N. Mikhailov and N. I. Zolotukhin;
- dwelling with an aviary for walking animals.
The first cell is tall building with two separate sections. One of them serves for feeding, and the other for the nest.
They are separated between a dense sheet of plywood. For the normal movement of the animal, a manhole is provided.
An exit for animals is made in the side wall. The entire perimeter of the cage is fenced with a grid. This helps prevent escape from the kennel.
The sizes of cages for rabbits are calculated based on their number.
Note!
For intensive reproduction of animals, the technique of combining neighboring nurseries is used. To do this, a corridor is made along the back of the cage with additional doors for the male to move.
Industrial constructions of cells according to Mikhailov technology
They are miniature farms. There is a nest for small rabbits, a place for feeding adult animals, additional ventilation. An additional compartment for waste disposal is made along the lower border.
How to make a similar cage for rabbits? To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the design drawings. The exact dimensions of the walls and ceiling are shown in detail here.
Nurseries using the Zolotukhin technique
Nurseries using the Zolotukhin technique are multi-storey departments that can accommodate several families. The scheme of the cage for rabbits provides for the presence of additional compartments for feeding and unhindered cleaning of waste.
The main advantage of this method is to create conditions as close to natural as possible. Little rabbits acquire immunity to various viral diseases. The female independently arranges a warm nest from her fluff and dry straw.
Stages of creating a cell
Making a simple animal cage is easy enough.
Note!
To do this, you must follow a strict sequence of actions:
- the frame of the future cage is assembled from the bars. The thickness should be 10 cm in diameter;
- a blank wall is installed in the back of the nursery;
- the side parts of the cage are upholstered with mesh.
To do this, you need to use small fractions.
- Experienced experts recommend upholstering the side walls with small slats. This will protect the animal from overheating in summer and freezing in winter;
- The bottom of the nursery is made of a durable plywood sheet;
- Outside the cage, feeders and additional doors are installed. This allows you to easily remove bedding and debris from the animal.
The photo of the cage for rabbits shows step by step instructions, which will facilitate the process of building a nursery.
Photo cages for rabbits do it yourself
This article is addressed to beginner rabbit breeders. I collected 7 detailed instructions how to make cages for rabbits with your own hands. You can breed both ordinary and decorative ones - the first for meat and skin, the second for mood.
Cages are most often made from plywood or chipboard, from which the walls and roof are made. The frame is made of boards or timber, which also act as "legs" or supports. If the cells are in the open air, then the roof is made from roofing material, for example, from a metal profile.
Video - building a cage for rabbits step by step
The first guide I want to put is this video material, in which it is accessible, understandable and without unnecessary movements and words shows the stages of building a three-tier cage for rabbits. The design is comfortable and practical. Plums are diverted on inclined pallets and the cages are always dry.
Rabbit cage drawing and general information
Knowing the necessary space for the life of one rabbit, you can calculate the future volume of the cage or aviary. It should also be noted that for better development the rabbit also needs space to move.
The figure shows general information about rabbits, their average height, length, minimum space for their life and walking area. The minimum width of the cage is the size of the rabbit in a stretched form, the minimum length of the cage is 3-4 rabbit jumps, the minimum height is so that the rabbit can stand on its hind legs and not touch the ceiling.
At the beginning, I will show a drawing of a simple rabbit cage for a small family. This cage can be made in order to raise several animals for food by the fall.
Another interesting drawing of a rabbit hutch with a walking area right on the ground. This design is mobile and can be moved around the site so that the rabbits always have access to greenery.
there is information for summer residents on how to build a cage for keeping domestic rabbits in just half a day. The cages are built from three-four-layer plywood and galvanized mesh.
The construction of a cage with bunker feeders and a nursery for roughage is well described. The floor is in a mesh cage, the roof is plywood. On this site you can see detailed photos, as well as find out the optimal dimensions of the structure.
Schemes and drawings of cages for rabbits
Here are the sketches different options"houses" for rabbits: cages, barrels and cells directly. The scheme of the cage for 2 adult rabbits is given. The drawing of a simple cage for young animals indicates the dimensions that will be useful to you when making it yourself.
Video - cages for rabbits Zolotukhin
You can watch a video with the participation of Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin. He talks about the design of his upgraded rabbit cages. In these cages, the floor is made of flat slate, and the net (from 5 cm wide) is fixed only at the rear edge of the cage.
This allows you to make multi-storey cages and makes cleaning easier. A very rewarding experience! The master also talks about some important elements cages, for example, about the overturning feeder, which is convenient to fill and clean.
Mikhailov's Mini Farm - Blueprint
You can see Mikhailov's legendary mini-farm here:
In such mini-farms, professional breeders breed rabbits. You will see in the photo a detailed analysis of the design of the mini-farm. Drawings of cages for rabbits with dimensions are given.
In such cages, automatic drinkers and feeders for animals are equipped, which makes it possible to feed them without rationing. And as a result, such mini-farms are simply created for breeding animals. And this will increase the profits of farmers using Mikhailov's mini-farms!
This "apartment" house for rabbits from the portal "I-Farmer.ru"
made according to the drawings of Mikhailov's mini-farm. The master writes about the advantages and disadvantages of these cells. This experience he had after operating and caring for rabbits in these cages during one winter.
You will see unique photos author. Next, the author gives a photo of the phased development own project cages for rabbits. You can watch a video of making a drinker, feeder and nursery for roughage. Very interesting and unique stuff!
If you are a non-professional rabbit breeder, but just starting to breed rabbits, then this article is for you. Here is another author's model of the simplest one-story cage for rabbits with a drawing. This is more of a one-story residential complex for furry animals. The floor in the cage can be made of mesh or slats.
Video on making a cage according to this drawing
Discussion of the rabbitry with queen cells from the lining
the master posted a photo of a rabbitry with queen cells for 6 females. Very beautiful street cages from lining! Forum participants criticized the master. There was even an interesting dispute between them.
We recommend that you read the critical notes and take them into account when building cages for your rabbits! Moreover, the author put the rabbitry up for general discussion, which means that he wanted to ask the experts what needs to be fixed. Consider the advice of experienced rabbit breeders!
Breeding rabbits in households can be profitable, as well as turn into continuous losses. Rabbits actively breed, grow quickly, eat green fodder, and their meat and skins are expensive - and this brings considerable profit to the breeder. However, they are capricious in keeping and subject to high mortality. Therefore, the construction of rabbitry should be given the closest attention. We will talk about how to create a rabbitry with your own hands in this article.
The word "bunny" has a double meaning. This is the name of the room where there are rabbit enclosures, as well as cages made together and mini-farms standing on the street.
Most often, rabbitries are heated and lit rooms with good ventilation, where there are cages in tiers. In regions with a mild climate, open rabbitries are more often used, which are a structure of two or three walls covered with a canopy.
Rabbit Hut - inside view
A good rabbitry must meet the following requirements:
- create comfortable conditions for living and breeding animals;
- be convenient in service for a person of average height and build;
- have a well-thought-out system for removing waste products from cells and their subsequent disposal.
The buildings for the rabbitry are made one-story and rectangular. They are built according to GOST 23838.
In practice, cages with these animals can also be placed in a frame-type barn.
Common designs and their features
A standard indoor rabbitry is a closed room equipped with lighting, ventilation and heating systems, less often with a water supply system. There are cages in long rows, usually in three tiers. Between them there are passages, the optimal width of which is 1.5 m. Often part of the rabbitry is separated for technical rooms and food storage.
Tiered mini-farms
Rabbit in a hole
This is one of the most controversial decisions, supporters and opponents of such a design are approximately equally divided.
An example of a "pit" keeping of rabbits
Advantages of "pit" content:
- burrow life is natural for rabbits;
- in the pits naturally a microclimate, humidity and temperature normal for rabbits is formed;
- animals breed all year round;
- good litter survival;
- animals get sick less often and gain weight better;
- feed is given to all animals at once, this saves time and effort.
Cons of "pit" content:
- it is impossible to regulate mating;
- it is difficult to monitor the condition of individual individuals;
- difficult to catch animals;
- there is a chance that the rabbits will dig under the walls and escape.
Example No. 1 of keeping rabbits in pits 
Example No. 2 of keeping rabbits in pits 
Example No. 3 of keeping rabbits in pits
For pit keeping in rabbitry, a hole is dug 1 to 2 meters deep around the entire perimeter. The floor and walls are concreted to prevent escapes. The resulting pit is covered with sand about 20 cm thick, on which a mesh is laid for ease of cleaning. Inside they put feeders, drinkers, and you can run rabbits.
According to a number of farmers, pit content is the best option, as it is as close as possible to the natural living conditions of rabbits. It is believed that the meat characteristics of underground rabbits are much better. However, with all the advantages, the organization of such housing is associated with a number of difficulties. deal with rabbits in the pits in.
All-weather version with insulated compartments
The climate of Russia is such that in most of its territory the winter is too cold for keeping rodents on outdoors or in uninsulated rooms. Therefore, for the successful maintenance of rabbits, you need to think about warming. There are two options here, and to achieve best result they need to be combined. Either heat the rabbitry, or insulate the compartments themselves, which contain the animals.
The temperature in the place of their maintenance should not fall below -5. The range from +5 to +15-20 degrees is considered ideal for this time of year. Approaching the upper threshold of the specified range is most desirable; in warmth, rabbits breed well and gain weight. This will help prevent seasonal "breaks" in this type of business.
In the mother liquor, the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, otherwise the rabbits may die, or, under the best circumstances, they will lag significantly behind in development, and the farmer will spend more on keeping the cubs than he will ultimately receive profits. Keep in mind that rabbits are born naked and are very sensitive to cold. Although the female herself takes care of heating the cubs and warming the nest, both mole rats, and already grown up, and rabbits that have grown fur - low temperatures, all exactly, harmful. Systematic freezing leads to slow growth and poor weight gain, as well as a decrease in immunity.
The original method of warming the compartments was invented by Russian rabbit breeders. A “pocket” made of thick plywood is attached to the bottom of the compartment, where an electric heating pad of the EG-1 brand (or another) is inserted. With the help of a transformer, the heating pad, if necessary, is switched on to a reduced mode, thereby heating the floor of the cage.
Basic principles to follow when creating a rabbitry
Regardless of the design of the rabbitry and cages chosen, there are certain sanitary and hygienic standards that must be observed. In particular, there are certain standards for lighting, temperature and cage ventilation. When creating a rabbitry, they must be followed.
Types and sizes of cells
From the description of large structures, let's move on to small ones, that is, to cells. They can be used both autonomously, for keeping one or two animals separately from the rest, or stand in a barn-type rabbitry or be part of a collapsible mini-farm complex.
There are a lot of options for cages for rabbits. But all of them can be divided into three conditional groups, depending on the purpose.
mother liquors
These are cages of a special design, where rabbits are placed for lambing. There she gives birth and lives with the cubs until they reach twenty days of age.
A distinctive feature is the presence of a nest. It is a box made from improvised materials, such as plywood, and has dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.
Nest building rules:
- it is necessary to cut a hole in the nest at a height of at least 10 cm. This is done so that too small rabbits cannot get out of the nest;
- the floor in the mother liquor should only be solid;
- the plywood from which the nest is made rots from the secretions of animals, so it is necessary to lay a piece of waterproof material on the bottom, for example, a stainless steel sheet, and a thick layer of straw on top;
- the lid is made so that it can be raised and lowered (it is best to put it on furniture hinges);
- if the mother liquor will stand on the street or in a cold room in winter period, you need to take care of heating (you can use a cheap and proven method of heating: an infrared lamp placed in a special compartment).
Two-section cage with sennik for adults
This type of design is good for keeping two adult animals. At plus temperatures it is permissible to expose it outdoors, at minus temperatures it is recommended to use it indoors, including heated ones.
The two-section cage is wooden box 1.4 - 2 m long, 0.5 to 0.7 m high and 0.5-0.7 m wide. The upper, lower, side and rear walls are made solid. It is best to use structures knocked down without gaps from sanded unpainted boards for this, but other solutions are possible, for example, from a fine mesh or from tin. In the last two cases, it is worth taking care of a rigid, strong frame that will hold the entire structure.
Drinking bowls and feeders are placed at the edges, so that the animals could not climb there with their paws.
Two-section cells can also be made multi-tiered. This will help to more rationally use the rabbitry area.
Video - Do-it-yourself two-section cage
Cage with nest
This option is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows the rabbit to lead a more natural lifestyle for him. In this case, the cage is divided into two compartments with a manhole between them. The smaller compartment is insulated with hay and serves as a nest.
group cells
Enclosures for young animals 3-6 months old, also called group cages. Animals can be both heterosexual and same-sex. Please note that uncastrated males may begin to show aggression towards each other early, in which case they must be seated in individual compartments. The typical dimensions of this cage are 120 by 50 by 40 cm.
How to create a drawing of a rabbitry
Of course, a drawing of a single cage or a whole rabbitry can be done independently, or simply fit any of the above options to fit your size. Main parameter you need to know is the number of rabbits that you plan to keep in a cage.
- For one young animal, a minimum of 0.1-0.2 m2 is required. For a comfortable stay, this rate should be increased to 0.5 m2. Males, which are planned to be put into breeding, need 2 times more space.
- An adult animal needs at least half a meter of free space. Ideally, a meter to be able to fully move.
- For rabbits of large breeds, these standards must be increased. The dimensions should be such that the animal can freely stretch out to its full length along the cage, without resting its body against the walls, and can sit without touching the lid with its ears.
- There must be a separate nest in the mother liquor. Its typical dimensions are 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.
When the dimensions are determined, you can proceed to the drawing. You should start by drawing a top view: draw a rectangle of the required dimensions, if necessary, divide it into compartments. Then, on the drawing, all elements are indicated: partitions, doors, manholes, feeders, etc. Dimensions are affixed everywhere. Based on the top view, the side view is drawn. An imaginary section should pass through the most technologically complex section, for example, along the mother liquor nest. The sizes must match. You can draw a bottom view by drawing Special attention legs and support structure.
Nuances in the manufacture of rabbitry
If you are building a cage for the first time, here are a few tips that will come in handy. They are not obvious to new farmers and will help to avoid mistakes.
Watching a video, where you can personally observe the construction process by professionals, also helps to avoid mistakes.
Video - Step by step building a cage for rabbits
Tools and materials
To build a rabbitry, you do not need anything particularly rare or expensive. Of the tools, a regular construction set is enough. The presence of a welding machine will be a plus.
Usually, lining, timber or ordinary boards are taken for construction. Only their use is not recommended, rabbits gnaw through the tree. Therefore, it is combined with the following materials:
Let's analyze: what materials are the parts for creating cells.
- Frame. It is made from wooden blocks.
- Side and back walls. They are made from thick boards. There are recommendations to make walls from plywood, but you should not do this. Plywood is less durable, warps, delaminates and bubbles from moisture, and, most importantly, rabbits quickly gnaw through it.
- front wall. Made from fine mesh. Iron mesh can only be taken if it is painted or coated, otherwise it will rust.
- Floor. It is made from fine mesh or boards stuffed in parallel.
- Roof. It is made of wood, roofing material, slate. But corrugated board can be used exclusively for covering cages standing under a canopy or indoors - it gets very hot in the sun.
How to choose a seat
Whether you want to build a building, a mini-farm, or just put a few cages under a shed, you need to start by choosing the right place.
taken in Russian Federation building codes permit the construction of personal plot outbuilding with an area of 15 sq. m. and a building for keeping farm animals or poultry with an area of 40 sq. m. The residential building must be at least 15 m away from the two above-mentioned buildings.
Additionally, you need to take care of the following:
Even if there is no place on your personal plot that fully satisfies all these conditions, try to get as close to the ideal as possible. Small discrepancies are not critical.
Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners
At first glance, it seems that such a structure is very difficult to build on your own, but this is just an illusion. Even for a delitant, it is quite possible to make a rabbitry on your own, spending from several hours to several days of time on it.
If you decide to build a rabbitry with your own hands, the algorithm of actions should be as follows.
Step 1. Using the above tips, choose a place for the future rabbitry, decide on its size, layout, material for construction.
Step 2 Build the cage frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. It can be wood or metal. If several cells stand side by side, the frame must be solid.
Step 3 With the help of a joiner's square and a level, a shelf and an upper frame are attached to the frame;
Step 4 The bottom and lid are assembled on a frame made of wooden beam or cut them separately from thick plywood. In the latter case, at the corners it is necessary to cut holes for the legs.
Step 5 The bottom and lid are attached to the frame.
Step 6 A mesh is nailed to the door. Attach it to the frame with furniture dowels.
We nail the frame, in which there will be a grid in the future
Step 7 Upholstered with a net or clog the sides of the cage with boards. The mesh is cut with scissors for metal and put on self-tapping screws with a screwdriver.
Help in the construction will also help watching the video of the manufacturing process.
Video - Do-it-yourself rabbit cage from professionals
This video shows in detail all the stages of construction, are given helpful tips newcomers.
As can be seen from the article, making a rabbitry with your own hands is quite realistic even for a beginner. You just need to strictly follow the advice, and everything will work out.
You can build cages for rabbits with your own hands from improvised materials: unnecessary boards, plywood, chipboard, slate, bricks, metal carvings, tin, etc. The design of the cages also varies, but it is better to choose one that will not take you much time to manufacture and will be convenient for feeding the rabbits, inspecting them and cleaning them regularly.
Types of cages for rabbits and possible DIY materials
Not all types of cells can be made with your own hands, but many of them, with knowledge of the size, availability of drawings and basic skills, will definitely be possible to make. So, what types of houses for an eared tribe exist?
By size and height:
- simple in one tier,
- bunk,
- three-tier,
- multi-tiered.
For which rabbits:
- for the young
- females
- decorative,
- giants and dwarfs, etc.
What materials can be made from:
- wood,
- metal (iron, etc.),
- metal profile, etc.
Options can be both summer and winter. There are types for keeping on the street or in the apartment. They can be monolithic or portable, especially if the rabbits are dwarf and kept at home. Houses can also be fattening. There are also industrial facilities, but they will not be discussed.
Some options for homemade rabbit houses in the photo
Wooden with mesh 
Combined wood and mesh 
From a metal profile and wood using a section 
from wood
Dimensional drawings for some cell types
For 2 tiers 
Mikhailov's cell 
simple circuit 
Zolotukhin's cell
General step-by-step instructions for making at home
To engage in rabbit breeding, special investments are not required: you can easily make cheap cages for rabbits, drinkers and feeders yourself, you can prepare hay and branches from the summer, take root crops and vegetables from your own garden. The main expenses will be required only for yes for concentrated feed.
Rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament should live in each cage.
It is recommended to place adults and rabbits with offspring in one- or two-section cages. Standard sizes correct cages for rabbits: length about 100-120 cm, height 50 cm, width about 70 cm. It is better to keep young animals in a group cage, the size of which corresponds to the number of rabbits. For example, for ten rabbits, a house with the same height and width as mentioned above, but up to 170 cm long, is suitable. It should be remembered that rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament should live in each cage.
Even novice rabbit breeders will find it easy to figure out how to build a two-section rabbit cage.
Step-by-step production of cages for rabbits:
When keeping rabbits outdoors, cages should be installed on bars so that they rise seventy centimeters above the ground. This will protect the lop-eared from rodents and pets, and it will be much more convenient to maintain the houses. By building a cage from improvised materials, you get almost for free original house for your pets.
Other rabbit house options
If the suggested tips do not describe the picture of the upcoming work well enough, you should pay attention to the most popular types of cages for keeping and breeding rabbits. They are used by experienced farmers.
Family block - three-section cage
It may seem a little more difficult to make a three-section cage for rabbits, the drawings of which are presented in the photo tab. But in such family blocks it is very convenient to breed rabbits: a breeding rabbit lives in the central compartment of the cage, and females live on the sides. Wooden partitions between the compartments, the cages have manholes with plywood latches, designed to make it easy to plant females for mating with the male and return them back to their compartments.
It is very convenient to breed rabbits in such family blocks.
The frame can be knocked down from the bars, and the side walls, back, nest compartments with doors and partitions can be made from a wide lining. A metal mesh is used for the front wall. In nesting compartments, it is desirable to provide an attic - free space between the ceiling and common roof where rabbits can rest from their offspring. Additional convenience of the design lies in the well-thought-out arrangement of feeders and drinkers - food and water in them are not contaminated, they can be filled from the outside.
Mikhailov's mini-farms are an easy way to raise little rabbits
One of the most effective ways rabbit breeding are Mikhailov's mini-farms, providing intensive rearing of animals with minimal care from the rabbit breeder. The well-thought-out design of Mikhailov's cages provides for automatic cleaning and provision of rabbits with food, heating of water in drinking bowls to the required temperature (which is especially important in winter), heating of the mother liquor to increase the survival rate of newborn rabbits.
Not every rabbit breeder can make Mikhailov's cages with his own hands. But if you wish, you can collect complex structure according to the scheme, which you can easily find on the Internet.
The right houses according to the Zolotukhin method
The well-known rabbit breeder Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin has been successfully breeding rabbits for several decades, such an impressive experience helped him develop his own concept of keeping rabbits at home.
Their design is quite simple, and the manufacture requires materials that can be found in the household of almost everyone.
Features of Zolotukhin cells:
- the floor in the cells is made solid from slate or boards;
- no pallets;
- a narrow strip of a mesh floor is provided only along the rear walls of the cages;
- the back walls are made at an angle so that the waste of rabbits from the upper tier does not fall on the rabbits of the lower tier;
- there are no special queen cells - the rabbit herself equips the nest before giving birth;
- grain feeders are fixed on the doors, which easily flip outward for filling.
After watching the video in the tab to the article, you will understand how to make cages for rabbits of the same type as Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin. Moreover, their design is quite simple, and the manufacture requires materials that almost everyone can find on the farm.
How to make your own cages for dwarf rabbits
If you decide to have rabbits at home as pets, the issue with cages will be decided differently. In pet stores, you can now find a variety of cages for decorative rabbits, but it is not necessary to spend money on their purchase - making a cage for a small domestic rabbit will take very little time.
A cage for a dwarf rabbit is made from two side walls 70x70 cm and a back wall 55 cm high, 100 cm long. back wall you need to fix it so that a gap of 15 cm is obtained under the cage. Nail meter slats to the bottom of the cage and fix a metal mesh over them. On the front door you also need to nail the grid. Make a mesh hinged lid with a handle. Place a pallet under the cage - the cage for the dwarf rabbit is ready! The material was updated on 03/17/2017