Partitions made from drywall are often used for the urgent redevelopment of an apartment or at home, making in their design or interior of something new and unusual. To do this, they possess all the advantages: their device and installation with their own hands are simple, and even inexperienced, novice homemade master cope with this technology. They are cheap in the installation and after the final finish, they do not distinguish them from the main walls of the apartment.
There are partitions and disadvantages. But you can cope with them. For example, the insufficient mechanical strength of the partition can be significantly improved, if used instead of conventional drywall, dry-fiber sheets or enhance the design, lining the frame with several layers of drywall. And in wet rooms, a waterproof drywall is used in the wet premises.
But whatever partition you have decided to build in your apartment, remember that the introduction of a new element in the planning should be coordinated with the housing inspectorate authorities.
Plasterboard partitions, like plasterboard lining of walls, usually make on a wooden or metal frame. Metal frame is reliable, technologically, and when it is used, it is possible complex structuresthat are harder to do on a wooden frame. But, in turn, working with a wooden design is more familiar and it will cost cheaper.
Timber for partition frames are used coniferous rocks. All items must be processed by special fire and bioprotective impregnations before installation.
The material for the frame is chosen, guided by the parameters of the future partition: how it is higher and longer, the cross-section of the frame elements should be greater. For a frame of partitions with dimensions of 2.5x (4-5) m, you can take the bars with a cross section of 60 × 80 mm.
The frame of the partition consists of a strapping, racks, as well as horizontal jumpers, are usually installed in places of sheets of plasterboard sheets. The design can be complemented by more powerful racks and jumpers in doorways, inches, etc. To improve soundproofing properties, and B. country houses - And for the heat-preserves, the framework in the process of manufacturing partitions is filled with sound and insulating materials. In temporary accommodation homes, the insulation additionally protect moisture and pair-protective films.
Montage frame partitions.
This work is starting with the installation of strapping. The bars of the strapping are fixed to the floor, ceiling and walls. If the overlaps are wooden, the task is simplified because it is fairly ordinary nails for attaching bars. With a thickness of a bar of 60 mm, it is quite enough nails with a length of 100 mm. If the walls are concrete or brick plastered, the strapping is fixed with a dowel-nail - to the wall and sex and anchors to the ceiling.
Also read on the topic: Starting work follows from the ceiling bar. Significantly on the ceiling the boundaries of the partition, the timber is screwed or naked to the ceiling, after which the location of the lower bar of the strapping is planned. Do it with a plumb, rules with a level or more modern tools, such as laser level.
When using traditional tools along the septum length, it is necessary to make a minimum of three marks, each of the walls and in the middle. When the marks are made, they are fixed to the floor nizhny Bar And once again check the correctness of its location relative to the top bar. After that, vertical bars of strapping connecting outdoor and ceiling bars are installed on the walls.
Since the main load from the future partition lay on the strapping, it is necessary to fix it as reliable as possible - with a step of fasteners no more than 40 cm. But before mounting the timber, it is necessary to make sure the strength of the walls themselves. If the walls are made of not very durable materials (cellular concrete, gypsum), the dowels of maximum sizes are needed and it may be necessary to replace a dowel-nail to specialized dowels that are intended for use with specific building materials. In the extreme case, you can do with wooden corks that are driven into the prepared holes and then screw screws into them. This method is old, you can say - Dedovsky, but verified.
Another way to fasten the strapping - using direct suspensions used during installation metal carcasov. If the walls are strong enough and smooth (for example, concrete), then this is the most convenient and fast way Fastening timber.
After the frame frame is installed in place, and tested for verticality, time comes to put racks. For them, the timing of the same section is used as for the cutting of the frame.
Racks usually have 60 cm increments. With such a step, each sheet of drywall (with a standard sheet width 120 cm) is attached on three racks.
Installation racks can be in several ways. The simplest - with the help of driving wooden bars, which are fixed with the help of screws to the most vertical rack and to the strapping. More reliable way - Fasten the rack with metal corners, which can be easily made from direct suspensions or purchase ready.
From the same bar cut out horizontal jumpers. Fasten them, skipping self-tapping screws directly through the vertical racks with one and on the other side of the jumper. Metal corners can be reinforced.
If the partition is provided doorwayit is framed by additional racks and a horizontal jumper. They are made from the bar of the same section as the entire frame, or a little more. Bottom door box Forms either a frame of the strapping, or if there is no need to be needed in the threshold, part of it in the opening is neatly cut down, and the edges additionally fasten the dowel nails.
In the partition of this type, the engineering communications are quite difficult. If it all needs to be paved in it, for example, the wiring, then in the racks you have to drill the holes of the desired diameter. It is desirable to remember that the cable is laid for safety in trumpets - hard or corrugated, or in tin boxes.
Facing partitions.
When the frame will be ready, you can proceed to its facing of plasterboard. Fasten sheets with screws with a wide hat. It is preliminarily necessary to develop a facing scheme, in which the sheets will have the least to color.
Crying sheets is better so that they do not stick over the windows and doorways - this can lead to the chunk of the edges of the sheets. Where it is impossible to avoid this, there is an additional bar in the junction, to which the edges of the sheets are fixed.
Installation of isolation with your own hands
If the partition is assumed to use heat and sound insulation, then it is embarked on the installation after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.
Currently, the market offers a lot insulating materials.
Well fit foamed, and mineral wool materials.
The selected step when installing the racks corresponds to the standard width of many insulating materials, which makes it easier to work.
Hard panels are better glued to inner side Already installed plasterboard. If there are small cavities between the plates, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of foamed and mineral wool materials gives a good soundproofing effect.
When covering the septum with plasterboard from the second side, it is necessary to remember that in order to avoid cracking of the frames of the frame when screwed down at the joints of a large number of screws of the sheets of sheets, you need to breed with the joints of the already mounted cladding, shifting them to the right or left.
It is also necessary to remember that there should be a gap of about 3-4 mm between the upper edge of the sheet and the ceiling, which will protect the upper edge from the chipping. This clearance is subsequently closed with ceiling plinth.
The frame cover must be performed sequentially from one edge. Screws need to screw in the frame rack perpendicular to the surface of the trim.
Such a partition is the simplest, but despite this it is characterized by sufficient strength and has good sound-insulating properties. Its disadvantage is a small thickness that makes the gasket of communications inside the partition.
Extended partitions with their own hands.
The design of partitions on a double wooden frame allows you to solve the task of laying inside the partition engineering communications And even install water heating batteries in them. In width, such partitions are much superior to those discussed above.
For the installation of the extended partition, two straps are installed, separated by a distance sufficient to accommodate communications. All operations when mounting the frame are performed in the same way as in the first case. First, the distance is determined by which two frames will be separated from each other, then mount the bars of strapping and vertical racks.
After one side of the partition is lined, inside it in pipes or special boxes from galvanized steel sheet or from plastic, all the necessary communications are laid. It is also possible to install inside partition and heating batteries, although it will require execution additional work. The batteries are set closer to one of the sides, and in front of them in the drywall mounted ventilation grids.
It should be remembered that in places of pipes with hot water Polyfoam and foam rubber as an insulating material cannot be used. Mineral wool is used as thermal insulation in these places.
There is a way to increase the internal volume of the partition and without installing the double frame. In this embodiment, the strapping frame is set alone, but the vertical racks are fixed to the side edges of the strapping bars, as a result of which the partition becomes wider. In this case, the installation of racks to the frame is also simplified - nor transient bars, nor corners are not needed. To improve sound insulation between racks and strapping bars, rubber gaskets or gaskets made of foams are laid.
In addition to the options with a single-layer facing by hypokarton, there are structures in which the sheets are placed on two layers on each side of the partition. In this case, the plasterboard is attached to the bars so that the top sheet overlaps the bog of the bottom layer of sheets.
Having finished the installation of sheet cabarton sheets, the seams on the joints of the sheets and the screws of the screws are sweeping, after which they go to the separation of the partition.
To date, plasterboard is rightly recognized by one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is explained by his pricing accessibility and indisputable ease. It is very often treated for alignment of overlaps in the house. Today we will talk about how to mount plasterboard to the walls, as well as get acquainted with all the advantages and disadvantages of this common finishing material.
What it is?
Before proceeding to the study of such a finishing material, such as plasterboard, it is worth understanding what he represents.
Plasterboard is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with solid plaster and special fillers inside. It is used in various purposes. For different work Lists are produced with different thickness. Looking plasterboard panels can not only on the walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose the materials of the appropriate category.
Features
Today in the shops of construction and finishing materials you can find absolutely any products for any repair work. For alignment of walls, customers are offered high-quality putty, plaster and other practical compositions. However, many people choose for such works "dry" material - plasterboard.
To date, the problem uneven walls familiar to many.It is faced with owners of private houses and urban apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the overlaps of smooth, not attracting the brigade of the finishes.
Uneven floors are bad not only what they look unprepacently, but also the fact that they can not be applied to them decoration Materials. To those can be attributed tile tile, Most species of paints and wallpapers. Based on the drops and potholes, such coatings are held unreliable, and they look very inaccurated. Many of the finishing materials and emphasize irregularities on the walls.
In such cases, do not do without perfectly smooth and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat look. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible in processing and can be coated with practically any canvases and paints.
Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall with a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless montage method, which specialists consider more complex.
Choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that it is necessary to work with drywall. This is due to its feature consisting in the fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the plasterboard, then it is hardly possible to return to him the primordial species. That is why for making, for example, arched structures Normal drywall will not suit, because with light bending it will just break.
Another distinguishing quality of plasterboard is its multitasking. It is used not only to align different bases, but also for the manufacture of interesting multi-level ceilings, racks with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.
Pros and cons
Like any other finishing material, plasterboard has advantages and disadvantages of which you should know if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.
To begin with, get acquainted with the list positive qualities Plasterboard sheets:
- They differ in a smooth and smooth surface, due to which they are chosen to align different bases.
- The advantage of plasterboard is also its thermal conductivity. Indoor, where the walls are covered with this material, will always be warm and cozy.
- Plasterboard is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. Its composition is not dangerous and harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
- The sheets of GLC fireproof and do not support burning.
- Another weighty advantage of plasterboard is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, such material is not subject to the formation of mold and fungus.
- Often consumers buy plasterboard, as it has affordable price, but applied in various purposes.
- Plasterboard walls can be complemented various insulation (more often prefers polyplex and mineral wool).
- Work with plasterboard is quite simple. To do this, you do not need to be purchased by expensive tools.
- Using this finish material, you can implement any bold designer ideas. That is why plasterboard uses many designers in their developments.
- Plasterboard does not require expensive and regular care.
- From the GLK does not come unpleasant chemical smell.
- He is fragilely processed. To do this, you can use almost any materials from ordinary paper wallpaper to tile.
- Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any rooms. It may be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvas.
- Thanks to the gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
- With a skeletal method of fastening drywall, rough walls do not need long and scrupulously prepared with special compositions. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic means to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
- Many consumers are purchased for repairing drywall, because it can be used immediately after the purchase, giving them to lie 2-3 days without exposing additional preparation.
- To date, the selection of plasterboard sheets allows you to choose the optimal option for any conditions.
As you can see, a list of positive qualities at drywall is quite impressive.
However, he has its weaknesses:
- Normal plasterboard is not recommended to mount in rooms with high levels humidity. For such conditions it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant species material. However, according to specialists, even such plasterboard in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
- Plasterboard sheets can begin to crumble, especially under the action of large loads. That is why on gypsum walls It is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large hours, suspended sink in the bathroom, lighting devices, big pictures and other objects with considerable weight. Otherwise, these things will take long on their places, and then just fall off and damage the plasterboard.
- Working with plasterboard needs very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material if only it is arched.
- Plasterboard on the frame will "eat" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all squares.
As far as the listed minuses are - each consumer must decide for itself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you can easily select the material and when you fasten the walls to the walls to strictly follow the instructions.
Materials and tools
If you decide to independently install plasterboard on partitions in your home, then you should be in withdrawing tools and materials.
From the toolkit you will be useful:
- special knife for cutting plasterboard sheets;
- special glue (for frameless installation method);
- construction level, plumbing, special markup cord, roulette, long line (instead you can take the rule), pencil / marker - these tools will be needed to mark the walls and for competent control over the vertical surfaces;
- ordinary and rubber hammers;
- spatula (instead you can take trowel);
- separate container for kneading the adhesive composition;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- self-tapping screw;
- dowel;
- screws;
- electric drill with a nozzle mixer;
- roller with a long handle;
- soft tassel;
- planned (needed to cut the chamfer);
- putclone (for applying the finish layer after all works).
From the materials you will need:
- the sheets of GLC (ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the installation of sheets is planned);
- galvanized profile or wooden bar (for frame formation with the corresponding installation method).
Application area
Plasterboard is a versatile material. It is used in the most different conditions and fragilely fixed on various bases.
Without this material, just do not do if we are talking about a wooden house or building from the cut.In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require competent alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that the houses from the tree always give shrinkage and plasterboard plates in them can only be installed after the completion of this process. Otherwise, sheets can be damaged in such conditions or deform.
To install drywall on the walls in wooden houses, it is necessary:
- provide space for mounting the insulation (if you, of course, plan to insulate the room further);
- have a free space for laying communication systems.
Align the walls in wooden houses is not easy. In this case optimal option will be frame installation. However, some owners first fasten on the boards and bars sheets of plywood or chipboard, and then plasterboard are glued to them.
Plasterboard is permissible to attach to walls with a concrete basis. For such surfaces, it is not necessary to make a complex frame. Plasterboard can be glued to such bases using a special glue. Such adhesive compositions today are found in stores very often. For example, qualitative composition "Perlfix" offers a well-known firm Knauf.
Plasterboard is often used to align brick walls.Here you can also refer to the usual stance of the material without the manufacture of the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level as far as the overlap is curved, after which any contamination, dust and dust are removed from the brick fat stains. In addition, the brick wall should be absolutely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion with drywall will not succeed even when using high-quality glue.
In case you want to level the walls of foam blocks, you should contact the framework of the installation. This is explained by the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to the frameless installation, but before this foam must be prepared - to separate the ground or plaster.
Walls made of aerated concrete also often require alignment. In such cases, it is possible to use frame, and frameless mounting methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases for the primer of deep penetration. Glue in such cases it is necessary to select especially carefully, as in cases with overlappings from foam blocks. Specialists recommend applying formulations from company Knauf. and "Montage WHAT".
Plasterboard will be able to make walls even in saman houses.Such buildings are full composites built from clay, land, straw and sand. Of course, with such materials, the construction of perfectly flat partitions does not have. For this reason, they simply need aligning plasterboard fabrics.
Methods of fastening
We have already mentioned above that plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or a frameless way. The selection of this or that installation variant largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the owners preferences.
On profile
This option is the mounted plasterboard is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, the gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame consisting of metal profiles recorded along the wall.
It is worth considering some nuances of this common installation method:
- Between the wall and the profile you can position the insulation, if necessary. Most often consumers choose mineral wool, penplex or foam. However, it is impossible to forget that the draft walls before laying the insulation layer must be processed by the antiseptic composition.
- In the cavity of the frame you can hide various engineering communications. It can be water pipes, heating batteries or wiring.
- Do not forget that indoors with increased level Moisture is permissible to use only moisture-resistant plasterboard. Conventional sheets in such conditions will serve not long.
Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame has a number of advantages:
- with a similar installation in the room, additional noise and thermal insulation are ensured;
- frame mounting allows you to align even ugly wall curves;
- before installing the frame and fastener of drywall, black partitions do not require preparation (enough to go through them with antiseptics).
Consider more details step-by-step instructions On the installation of plasterboard on the frame:
- First you need to measure the walls and make marking on the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
- Marking under the guides should be started from the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the overlap, then the line is carried out and with the help of a plumb is transferred to the floor.
- Vertical profiles need to be located at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard leaf relies on three racks.
- As for the installation of the suspensions, it is necessary to withstand a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.
- After that, you can move directly to the mounting of the frame. First, around the perimeter needs to consolidate the guide profiles. To fasten their ceiling and floor, you need to use a perforator, dowels and screws.
- In the points marked during measurements it is necessary to attach the suspensions.
- In the guide profiles should be inserted bearing and secure their suspensions.
- Configure all the details as securely and tight as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire design will depend on the quality of the frame.
- Before installing plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to strengthen horizontal guides.
- When the frame will be ready, you should switch to the installation of plasterboard sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special 25 mm metal screws. But they need to fasten them in such a way that the caps were slightly "drowning" into the plasterboard.
- After installing all sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using the reinforcing tape.
- When the putty finally dries, the drywall attached to the frame should be fully sharpened. After that, the surface wall decoration It will be perfectly smooth and smooth (without any flaws).
According to experts, such a installation technology is simpler. However, it is worth considering that a similar design takes part of the area indoors, so in a very small room it is better to use a frameless way, if, of course, it allows you to take overlap.
Blind designs
Frameless fastening of drywall is differently called adhesive, since it is fixed with the sheets at it with a special adhesive composition.
Choosing this installation option, you need to observe the following conditions:
- on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
- sowing plots should not be;
- walls should not be processed;
- they must be protected from dampness and excessive moisture;
- from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contamination.
It can only be applied to the frameless fastening of drywall in the event that the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile framework.
You can glue drywall on bases in different ways.
The optimal option must be selected, based on the technical condition of the overlaps:
- The first method of installation is designed for more smooth surfaces. Under it, the fixing of plasterboard sheets occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base around the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
- If the overlaps have on their surface of irregularities, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them with the help of the "Perlfix" glue. It must be applied portion along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum web (withstand the distance between the glue heaps of 35 cm), as well as on its perimeter.
- To make a cut straight, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make cut curves, then you should use electric jigsaw.
- Prepare glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum solutionswho freeze long enough.
- If the glue dries too quickly and you wish to extend the time of breathing, it is worth adding an adhesive composition for wallpaper or good old PVA into water.
- Now you can start glitting on the walls on the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of \u200b\u200birregularities on the ground. If the overlaps are smooth enough, then the mixture can be superimposed immediately.
- To eliminate considerable curvature it is worth putting beacons. It is possible to build from drywall strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued throughout the perimeter in a vertical position, withsting a step at 40-50 cm.
- Right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb.
- After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread), stretched between extreme beacons, you need to establish the remaining bands.
- Align lighthouses by rule.
- Plasterboard sheets need to be pressed using the rule installed in various positions. Touch the panel with a rubber hammer and correct their position.
- When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be separated by putty.
Plasterboard is lifebuoy in matters of wall leveling. Installation of gypsum sheets can not be called unbearable and energy-intensive.
So that you have more aesthetic and reliable design, should be considered the following advice and recommendations from professionals:
- The installation of plasterboard plates in the room is permissible only after laying outdoor coatings. Also by the time of alignment of overlaps in the room, all questions should be solved on the laying of communications and heating systems.
- Printing plasterboard (with a frameless way), try to avoid cross-shakes. It is better to lay out sheets with offset.
- Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets with the distrofile mounting. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor is 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
- In order for the plasterboard to securely hold on overlaps, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. The walls should not be shrouded and sprinkling areas.
- For framework method Installations are recommended to create a chamfer on the cropped material (it is needed for a better sealing of all seams of finishes). To do this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
- All tools and materials are recommended to prepare before mounting work. This will allow you to work without distracting and not spending time on extra action.
- Adhesive compositions need to be breeding, based on the instructions. It must be applied on the packaging.
- Do not tighten the fasteners on the drywall too much, as this can lead to deformation of a fragile material.
- To work with plasterboard you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the instrument yourself, to work with which you are more convenient, but experts advise to contact laser devices.
- Pay attention to temperature mode during installation work. The temperature is +10 degrees recommended. If the room is tangible, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
- Plasterboard sheets are recommended to install on the walls not immediately after the purchase, and after it will lie at home for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.
- Whatever installation method you have chosen, at the end of the joint you need to isolate the reinforcing ribbon. Only after that you can move to the shtocking of the seams and the hats of the screws.
To work with plasterboard sheets, a frame should be made. It is mainly manufactured from, but sometimes you can apply ecological material - wood. Gypsum on a wooden frame mounted in the case of 100 percent confidence that the tree will not be deformed from moisture and wooden bars will be processed from pests.
For mounting drywall, a frame of wood and metal profiles are used The tree has a property of changing its dimensions with sharp temperature drops, with high humidity. When the framework of the frame is plasterboard, with its finishing finish, the frame carcass will breathe air, which penetrates the department between the wall and plasterboard. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame for plasterboard is mounted indoors, where dry walls and no moisture. The use of wood saves room area, it has always been an important point. Everyone wants to leave the room space.
Very often a wooden frame is placed in private wooden houses and in the houses made from the cut. With the proper processing of the tree, it will last long time.
There is a method for fastening drywall on wooden ceiling (Wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:
- Wood quality.
- Room humidity.
- Wood processing.
The tree "breathes", so the likelihood is the likelihood that the plasterboard is deformed or burst. So before fixing wooden based Ceiling, you should think well this step.
For greater confidence, the warranty of the wooden frame, the timber is processed by oil. In this case, it does not swell when moisture gets and does not swell during dry and hot air.
In dry rooms there is the possibility of creating a partition based on a wooden frame, covered with plasterboard. 
Required tools and material in work
To work with a wooden bar, instruments and materials are needed, without which the manufacture of a wooden frame is impossible with their own hands:
- Normal hammer.
- A set of screwdrivers or screwdriver.
- Building knife and set of blades.
- Drill, if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
- Saw.
- Meter or roulette.
- Ruler and pencil.
- Laser or ordinary.
- Dowels, Treeless self-tapping screws and ordinary screws.
- Olife or other antiseptic solution for wood processing.
- Primer, preferably with additives.
- Insulating material - foam, mineral wool.
- Putty, reinforced ribbon.
- Roller, tassel.
- Set of spatulas.
Choice and preparation of wood for frame
In order to make a frame of a wooden bar with your own hands, you need to choose the tree breed. Not every tree is suitable for such a design. The best option is needle.
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In order for the tree to be influenced external factorsAnd also in order not to make pests, wooden bars should be processed:
- Sodium fluoride. This antiseptic penetrates deep into the tissue of wood. Does not contain poisonous impurities for a person, does not smell;
- Sodium siliconfluoride. A soda calcined is added.
It is forbidden to process a tree for residential premises with such means: coal, shale substances. For a person, such funds are dangerous. Before starting the frame of the frame, the tree must be in the room for several days.
Surface preparation
Getting started to mount a frame of wooden bars, a surface should be prepared. To do this, you will need:
Cleaning the wall Ot old finish Highly an important point It is the preparation of the surface and detecting wet spots. The wall should be dry and smooth.
Marking
Marking is applied to the prepared dry wall and drawing is made for the future design:
- the length and height of the wall should be measured, on which the design will be manufactured;
- with these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by height);
- all the figures obtained are transferred to a sheet of paper. First on paper, and horizontal and on the wall vertical linesfor which bars will be laid for the frame for plasterboard;
- it should be noted the locations of the fixtures.
With the help of the drawing and drawn markup, the frame will be smooth and hard (without movements and oscillations).
Assembling wooden frame
Before starting to mount the wooden bars with your own hands, for the future frame, you need to repel the point on the ceiling and on the floor, which will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:
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Each made step in the framework of the frame should be checked using a level and compare with plumbing. It is necessary to check the entire design on the quality of rigidity, the "floating" design is unreliable and will last long.
Mounting drywall to the finished frame
The next step is the installation of plasterboard on a wooden frame. The sheath begins with whole sheets. Plasterboard is attached to the frame of self-drawing. Fastening step 30 cm.
The shests of the horizontal sheets should be in a checker order, that is, one sheet is smooth, the second is cut into 20 cm and it will be lower when the GKC's sliced \u200b\u200bbar should be attached at the very top. Open area It should be embedded in the size of plasterboard. Edge plasterboard sheet Must be exactly on a wooden bruus.
Finish finish
After the cover of the HCL wooden designThe next step is the finish of GLC. First you need to handle and close the seams. If the chamfer was not made during the drywall, then the construction knife in the locations of the sheets should be cut the grooves, a depth of about 0.5-0.8 mm. These grooves should be cleaned of excess cardboard and handle the primer. For such work a brush is suitable. The primer must finally dry, before proceeding with the tiling of the reinforced ribbon and the sealing putty.
The putty should be applied by a thin layer, covering not only the seam with ribbon, but also the place of fasteners. After drying the putty, with the help of sandpaper, all extra lanes pebbles are removed. The seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (not to protrude).
After drying the putty, the entire plasterboard surface should be treated with a soil mixture. This will improve the adhesion of putty and prevent penetration into the GLC moisture.
After the surfaces of the surface, as well as complete drying, with the help of sandpaper, the entire surface should be sweetered.
Now the plasterboard wall based on the wooden frame is completely ready for further decoration.
Facing the walls of plasterboard provides a device or wooden bars. It is mostly used a metal lamp, it is more durable and more practical.
In rooms with a normal and dry temperature-humidarity mode for the framework of the framework, the use of wooden bars, a moisture content of 12% impregnated with antiseptic and antipyarem compositions is permissible. In places S. high humidity, as well as where it is required to increase the fire resistance of the structures, only a metal framework is used.
What a bar need
For the device of wooden frames, the timber is selected by a cross section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for material: Humidity - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. Common nature of the tree - pine.
What is the fastener and connection methods
Connection of frame parts, their mount on the wall and the ceiling are performed dowel-nails. In concrete surfaces, the holes are pre-perforator with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.
TO additional elements Fasteners can be attributed metal corners . They are joining vertical racks with horizontal. The fastening of the guide wooden bars lead in a step of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest racks).
Metal plate is used for both walls and ceiling
The connection of the elements of the wooden frame is performed with each other. self-timers At an angle or metal perforated corners. Installation of bars on the wall make an indent from it using ceiling and outdoor starting profiles Or without an indent, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are attached immediately on the wall. If it is a curve, make it aligning with special stores or by lining in the right places of wooden pads.
Requirements for materials and rules
In the arrangement of the design and construction rules, there are basic requirements that need to be observed to create a solid frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main of them:
- All products and materials must have hygienic conclusion and fire certificates;
- In space between the frame and the draft base, where the conditions of operation require, it is necessary to place heat, sound, flame insulating material;
- Water absorption of waterproof and water-heating sheets of plasterboard should be no more than 10%;
- The sheets of Glevo (moisture-generative) are used in rooms with air humidity not more than 90%, temperature not exceeding 30c. When using surface treatment, waterproof primers, putty, paints are used;
- For fastening the sheets of GLC thickness not more than 15 mm on a wooden frame, tn35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
- With longitudinal placement of sheets, the step of their attachments do not more than 60 cm, with a transverse one - no more than 1.25 m;
- To improve the soundproof properties of the structure between the guide bars, the ceiling and the floor, the sealing tape is laid;
- Fixation of sheets to the frame is carried out by self-pressing with a step of 25 cm, (rotary) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge \u200b\u200bwith cardboard), 15 mm - (cropped edge);
- The joints of the sheets during their vertical location must have to the center of the racks, with a horizontal - on additional bars placed between vertical racks;
- The step of carrier bars on the ceiling is 50 cm with a cross-arrangement of GLC, 40 cm - with vertical;
- The fastening step on the ceiling is not more than 17 cm.
Step-by-step instructions for the construction
The installation of the frame on the wall should be performed after the end of wet processes and to the assembly of the first floor, on the ceiling - after the completion of the finishes and laying engineering communications. All work behave in the following order:
- Markup;
- Frame assembly;
- Installation of sheets;
- Finishing work.
1. Marking
On the floor and the ceiling by the folding cord, the position of future starting bars of the frame is applied, taking into account their thickness. Transfer of labels between the floor and the ceiling is performed laser level or magnetic plumb. At the same time, the location is celebrated door openings, Fastening the vertical racks taking into account the selected step.
Attention. It is necessary that the sheets of sheets fall on the center of vertical racks. This makes an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or reduce the step of profiles in the right places.
2. Assembly of the carcass
According to the marked lines on the floor and the ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with a dowel-nail, a length of at least 3.5 cm. Tracking vertical bars adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they are tightly entered between guides. Produce fixation of elements with self-draws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of \u200b\u200bthe room must be framed around the perimeter.
Insulation laid in the frame
Attention! If the insulation is placed in space between the frame and the wall, it is necessary to take into account this at the settlement stage, placing the starting bar at a bought distance from the wall.
At the second stage, vertical bars with a selected step are mounted. To ensure additional stiffness of the structure, it is strengthened by horizontally located between the racks.
Laying Communications
If you plan to accommodate sanitary and technical pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, phone), you need to do it after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.
3. Installation of sheets
Sheets are placed on a frame, configuring close to the wall and ceiling, fix the center from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). Self-tapping caps are accumulated by 1 mm. Between the sheets and the floor they leave the gap 1-1.5 cm close it by sealant.
Attention. If the tapping screw went into the material is not at a right angle or deformed, it is replaced by another, having a distance from the first at least 5 cm.
The joints between the sheets with the reinforcing ribbon or without depending on the type of the edge of the GLC. The sweeping composition is applied in 2 layers - start and finishing and should not be outside the seam. The angles are treated with the use of reinforcing tape, bending it under the desired angle. After drying, the solution produces finish finish Sheet surfaces with subsequent placement of facing material.
To work with plasterboard use various materials. The most common method of building profile metal frames is most common, but the wooden structures can be found quite often.
The tree is a natural environmentally friendly building material, so some prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic exposure, biological corrosion and fires, therefore requires additional processing.
Installation of plasterboard on a wooden frame is used quite often.
Wood preparation
Physical properties
The frame for plasterboard is made from high-quality wood coniferous rocks.
Make a carcass for drywall from a tree conifer breed. The timing of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of the trim.
Basic physical characteristics:
- Humidity from 12 to 18%;
- For partitions of the W121 brand 2.8 - 3 meters high use a timing segment of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for crate;
- For partitions of the W122 grade 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a timber is used by a cross section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and crates, and depending on the height, various thicknesses of HCL are used: for height 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
- The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
- Fire retardant processing must match the first group fire safety;
- It is allowed to connect on nails, spikes and self-drawing, and precisely the spikes are most preferable, since they create a rigid and durable compound;
- Mineral wool sound insulation thickness should be from 50 to 60 mm;
- The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
- The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51, depending on the thickness of the wall.
Important!
Before installation, wood should lie in the room for several days, where it is assumed to be assembled to acclimatize.
Use a high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for humidity and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates of material processing with antipirens and passing the appropriate examinations authorized bodies.
Chemical treatment
Antiseptic processing - the condition of the long service of lumber.
In addition to fire-fighting, wooden frame for drywall must pass antiseptic processing.
This measure is aimed at combating all sorts of biological risk factors, namely:
- Fungal and mold microorganisms. The powerful medium for mycelium a number of mold and not only mushrooms can serve a tree. At the same time, wood comes into disrepair and collapsed;
- Biological rotting. Wood - organic materialwhich is subject to necrobiasis and decay, like all organisms. Antiseptic processing is needed for preservation.
- Insects-Olds. A variety of insects that feed on wood and leading it is known.
- Rodents. Also pose a danger to wood. Processing with antiseptics scares these animals.
Insect pests are able to spoil wood in a short time.
As antiseptics use different chemical compounds. One of the best is the fluorinist sodium.
This is a light gray powder soluble in hot water. Limit solubility is 3.5 - 4%.
Sodium fluoride well turns inside the wood and is very weakly washed away. In this case, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode metal, there is no smell and not toxic for humans. Enough strong antiseptic.
An example of wood damage to fungal mycelium.
Sodium siliconfluoride is also used, often with the addition of calcined soda, which turns it into a pure fluorine sodium.
It is unacceptable for residential premises Use of oily antiseptics:
- creoshot
- coal
- shale
- anthracene oils.
These connections are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the house.
Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard
Tracing the lines of the compound partition with walls
To build lines, use the 3 or 4 meter rule.
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to make trace, or, simply put, the markup of the lines, along which the partition will be adjusted to the walls, floor and the ceiling of the room. (See also an article How to build a partition from plasterboard: Features)
To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it to the width of the GCL sheet.
Do it better through the ceiling-wall. Note the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb down the wall. To do this, at the point we score a nail, hang a plumb and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, at the floor itself.
As a plumb, you should use a centered loader with an axis pointer.
We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, it is necessary to carry out from the bottom point perpendicular wall line.
This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": rectangular triangle With the aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5, where the 3rd and 4th mattings correspond to the 5th - hypotenuse.
At the same time, one roll laying along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we build a circle arc in the direction of perpendicular to the wall with a radius, a multiple of 4th.
Then from the other end of the category built along the wall, we build a circle arc with a radius, a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with a previously constructed arc.
By connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original lower point, we get perpendicular to the wall. We spend along this perpendicular line on the floor - the second line of our partition.
In the place where the floor line connects with opposite wall, At the bottom of the wall, mark the point. Using a level or plumb to transfer this point under the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also an article of a drywall niches in the wall: how to do.)
Next, we connect two top points on the walls on the walls and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we must get a rectangle on the floor-wall-wall lines, along which the partition will be adjusted to the room.
Tip!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: to attach a sheet of drywall sheet with a short side, and along the long carrying perpendicular from the calculated point.
Mounting frame
Wooden frame for plasterboard partition.
As you can see a photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical, as well as horizontal bars. Mounting the frame should be started from the frame.
For this, along the lines that we built on the walls and the ceiling, the bars should be consolidated. If the house is wooden, attitudes them with self-draws or spikes to ceiling beam, gender lags and walls.
If the construction is stoneware, bars are secure with dowels and screws. You can also use direct suspensions or brackets.
KNAUF bracket can be used to fasten the bars to the wall.
Along the walls and the ceiling, fasten solid bars. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located at the wall - then the bottom timber will be solid and located one way from the opening.
So, fasten all the bars, to drill holes in the walls and the ceiling, use a shock drill with a brown of concrete.
Doorway
Door opening is formed by double risers.
When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.
Stands
Racks should be installed in terms of strictly vertically.
To determine the location of the jumper (vertical, which is on the opening, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and at the site of its edge, we have a jumper so that the edge of the sheet comes from the middle of the board.
Tip!
To connect the bars, it is better to use metal corners and metal lining designed to assemble rafting systems.
These attachments are reliable and designed for significant loads.
Each item is required to check the level: racks must be strictly vertical, jumpers are strictly horizontal.
You should also try to arrange the rack so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of HCL. It will save time and material.
All manipulations on the assembly of a wooden frame are easy to produce with their own hands, and alone. We advise newcomers to work with the assistant, better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.
Wooden frame is sinking as well as metallic.
Work on the frame of the framework of the carcass sheets of GLC is the topic of a separate article. It can only be said that the plasterboard on the wooden frame is mounted as well as on the metal.
It should also be noted that the price of the profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and it is more expensive to deal with poor-quality, so think well.
Tool
To work, you will need a standard set of tool for wood.
So, you will most likely need such a set:
If you do not have shock drill Or a screwdriver, they can be rented in a construction supermarket. Also do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.
You can use thick mats to not lay cotton in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a grid or another based, preventing stratforming material.
Conclusion
Build a wooden frame under GLC - work is simple and not requiring special skills. This instruction gives general viewFor greater visibility, we recommend watching a video on this page, which will help to understand many nuances and the intricacies of the construction of the construction.