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Any old piece of furniture deserves new life. Especially when it comes to upholstered furniture, because its upholstery very quickly becomes unsightly. In an affordable way updates is the upholstery of the chair with your own hands. This gives significant savings, guarantees a boring pastime. Photos and videos will help in the work.
Step 1. Preparatory stage
If you decide to change the upholstery of upholstered furniture, you need to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for such work. The most difficult thing is to choose the fabric of the upholstery of the chair. It must fit into the interior, be durable, resistant to abrasion. To determine the size of the cut, you can use a centimeter tape to approximately determine its quantity by adding up the dimensions of all the parts that need to be dragged. Be sure to leave the fabric on the hem.
A more accurate result can be obtained if measurements are taken when the chair is disassembled into individual parts. Then you can rip off fragments of the old fabric and measure them accurately. In this case, the seat upholstery material will be purchased in the required quantity.
The following tools will be useful for work:
- roulette;
- furniture stapler;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- pliers.
Step 2. Disassemble the bottom
Dismantling work always starts from the bottom. The chair is turned over and the legs or other base are removed. Usually, when assembling furniture, work ends with the design of the bottom. Therefore, it is advisable to disassemble the chair from here. The brackets must be bent, the screws unscrewed.
If the chair was used for a long time and it soaked unpleasant odors, not bad parts, while they are disassembled, treat with a disinfectant.
Step 3. Dismantling the external wooden parts
Many armchairs have external wooden details, such as armrests. They are definitely removed. A screwdriver and a hammer will come in handy for this. Nails and staples can be rusty, so care must be taken.
Step 4. Disassemble the bottom
To be able to remove the fabric, you need to disassemble the bottom completely. To do this, remove the fabric from the bottom by bending the staples. If there is a plywood bottom, it is removed. Next, they begin to work with the upholstery, freeing the fixed edges. When removing fragments of old upholstery, one must be careful. After all, the old fabric is needed to make patterns for new parts. It is better to do this job with pliers and a regular screwdriver. If you pull hard on the fabric, it will tear.
Step 5. Mark the assembly sequence
In order not to get confused during assembly, instructions can be applied to the old fabric, reflecting the sequence of actions. After all, it will be necessary to assemble furniture according to the same principles as they dismantled.
Step 6: Remove Fasteners
For added durability, the upholstery fabric wooden frame fastened with special brackets. It is very difficult to remove them. To straighten them and pull out the fabric, use a knife. If everything is done carefully, these staples can be reused. This will reduce overall costs.
Step 7: Remove the fabric
Once all fasteners have been removed, the entire upholstery fabric can be removed. Sometimes, in order to get to the fasteners that grip the fabric, you have to tear the batting. When all upholstery fabric is removed. It is necessary to evaluate the quality of the filler. If it is worn out, you can add a new layer of batting or foam rubber. If it is generally in complete disrepair, it is replaced with a new one.
Step 8. Evaluate how the foam is attached
If a well-thought-out fastening system was not used in the manufacture of the chair, then over time the edges of the filler break off. To prevent this from happening with a new filler, clamps must be used. Then the edges will not break off, and the quality of the furniture will be higher.
Step 9. Inspect and remove all old parts
In this chair, the upholstery was attached with buttons. All unnecessary fasteners are removed so that a new layer of batting or foam rubber lies without problems.
Step 10: Cutting the Fabric
For cutting, it is necessary to lay out the old upholstery fragments on a new fabric. If there is a graphic pattern on the fabric, you need to think about how the individual elements will fit together, and in general, what will be on one or another part of the chair. If the material has a pile, you need to follow where this pile will be directed.
Cutting should be carried out with a margin. After all, it is unlikely that all the fragments will fit well the first time. You need to do a few fittings to see how the parts fit. For fitting, the parts are connected with a needle. The basting will not leave rough marks.
When all the parts are ready, you can start assembling. It will be carried out in the reverse order of the actions that you performed during dismantling.
Step 11. Decorative upholstery details
All decorative upholstery parts are installed in their original place. You can make new ones, if the old ones are preserved, you need to think about how to properly arrange them. For the manufacture of new parts, it is necessary to use a thick cord, which is inserted into specially stitched strips, the width of which is about 2 cm.
Step 12: Update the wood pieces
Even a masterfully executed upholstery of an old chair will not desired effect without updating the wooden parts. Black paint will look relevant on the armrests. The use of paint in a spray can allows you to evenly apply the coloring layer.
A protective coating can be applied over the paint layer, which will make the coloring more durable. The same tool gives the surfaces a shine and a special smoothness. If there are doubts about the selection the right materials for dyeing, you need to consult the store. They will definitely help.
Step 13: Finish attaching the fabric
It is necessary to spread out the cover on the chair and check everything again. The fabric should evenly wrap around the chair, all fasteners should be hidden. If everything is in order, the edges are folded and fastened with staples. After completion of work, all edges must be bent.
Step 14: Stitch the cushion cover
On the sewing machine also grind off a removable cushion cover. Under the pillowcase, if dimensions allow, you can put another layer of foam rubber for greater comfort.
Step 15. Enjoy the result
It will take about 6 hours to haul such a chair. The difficulty is that each chair has its own nuances and, most likely, you will have to figure out how to reupholster a chair in your home. However, compliance with the main condition - phased dismantling and subsequent assembly in the same steps - will allow you to change the upholstery of any upholstered furniture.
DIY chair upholstery video
Every home has old furniture, and sometimes it is so loved by everyone that you simply don’t want to throw it away and replace it with a new one.
If you have an old chair and you do not want to part with it, then you can restore it.
It is not surprising that we are thinking about how to sheathe a chair with our own hands.
You can always restore your favorite chair. Many people are interested in how to sheathe an armchair with their own hands, to give it a modern, fresh look and at the same time do not part with your favorite thing.
Before you begin the restoration of the chair, check its frame for strength.
If you try, then a second life for furniture is possible. As you know, the more comfortable your furniture is, the more quickly the upholstery becomes unusable, because you use it quite intensively.
Do-it-yourself springless chairs can be made by a home craftsman like new. When starting furniture restoration, make sure that the frame has sufficient strength. If this is not the case, then the joints of the wooden parts must be glued and fixed. When reupholstering a chair, it is necessary to replace the padding that is inside the furniture, which is usually made of batting and canvas. Thus, the new upholstery will lie better and last longer.
To update the seat experienced master everything is prepared in advance. Stock up on materials that you will need in the course of the work, so as not to be distracted in the future.
Tools and materials
- For stuffing - batting, foam rubber, cotton wool.
- Linen canvas.
- Fabric upholstery for a chair.
- Stapler, nails, scissors, hammer.
- Tailor's chalk.
- Centimeter.
Usually the chair has padding, which is horsehair or coconut fiber, which is covered with linen canvas. A layer of batting is required on top of the upholstery. This way you will prevent sagging. The best option in this case the thickness will be 25 mm. Non-woven fabric, a synthetic material, is also suitable; it is also sold in specialized departments of furniture stores.
Starting to close the chairs, it is necessary to follow a certain order. Do the processing first inside heaps of your chair. Next get busy inside backs, and after all the work done, deal directly with the base and seat. Following this sequence exactly, the white linen cover is stretched in such a way that the batting has the desired position. Finally, cover the outer sides of the chair with upholstery fabric, only without a gasket.
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Material consumption
Remove the old upholstery carefully, as it will still be useful for a new pattern.
This step is quite simple, no complicated steps are needed to calculate the material consumption, you just need to get measurements from the upholstery that you removed. In this case, it must be taken into account that over time, deformation of the tissue occurs, it is stretched. Therefore, when cutting, it does not hurt to leave additional allowances. If you have chosen a fabric with a pattern for covering, the consumption should be reviewed so that the location of the pattern is harmonious. Try to keep it all over the surface. Remember to check if the new gasket matches the old gasket material in thickness.
To this end, you will need to beat the old batting as much as possible, in this form, compare. Often, in order to preserve the previous forms of the chair, which received new upholstery, use batting in a thick layer. Therefore, it is important to foresee the presence of an additional expense. An example for such a cutting can be considered old upholstery. But it's still better to take new measurements upholstery fabric, guided by the chair.
When working with batting, be careful, as the surface of the chair can become uneven and bumpy.
It is necessary to work with batting carefully so that the surface is re- upholstered chair did not turn out to be bumpy. Batting should be placed on the stuffing, covered with canvas, cut out the gasket. It should have a size due to which the edges could go beyond the close-fitting.
Adjacency to the edges of the gasket of any material should be soft. If horsehair needs to be fluffed, then this is not done with a gasket made of other materials. Thanks to batting, you will not only optimally update your favorite chair, but you will also be able to adjust it. appearance.
For example, when changing the thickness of the gasket, it is easy to change the proportion of the handles, make them wider and more massive, giving the chair solidity. The presence of thicker handles makes the furniture more comfortable, but do not forget that the seat will become narrower.
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Final upholstery step
Corner wrap example.
To obtain a flawless work result, it is necessary to carefully process the front corners. If they are rectangular, tuck them in with one fold, and if the corners are rounded, create a wreath of folds. special attention requires the processing of a right or sharp corner, while the ends of the fabric must be stretched at the corners directed to the outside. Next, the fabric is held and nailed. Here the distance from the corner of the frame is approximately 25 mm. A strip of loose fabric next to the nails is cut off, retreating 15 mm from the edge. Such a cut should be even, directed upwards. Excess fabric is cut off, adhering to the angle of 90 degrees.
The fabric that remains is laid in a separate fold, it must be pulled parallel to the corner of the frame, down, swept to the underside. If the seat has rounded corner, the tension of the fabric should be such that the distribution of the free part occurs evenly on the sides. Now pull the end of the fabric optimally, and secure it under the crossbar with a stapler or a nail. Trim excess material as neatly as possible, and lay the fabric on both sides evenly folded. In this case, both wreaths formed by folds must be pulled in such a way on the underside of the crossbar so that they overlap under the chair. Nails are used to secure the edges.
Restoring the appearance of furniture that has fallen into disrepair is not at all difficult.
If the upholstery on the old chair has become unusable, do not rush to throw it away, just drag it new fabric.
You can restore chairs and sofas with your own hands, saving money on buying new interior items.
In addition, hauling furniture is also a good way to earn money, with the help of which it is quite possible to replenish the family budget.
Before pulling the chair, you need to carefully inspect it. Determine which parts need to be replaced and which can still be used. As a rule, foam cushion pads, rubber straps used for screeding, and upholstery are most affected. Therefore, it is wiser to change them. It also needs to be replaced metal parts: nails, screws and staples.
Furniture disassembly
In order to disassemble the chair, you will need the following tools:
- pliers;
- keys;
- Phillips and regular screwdrivers;
- pliers.
First of all, it is necessary to remove the back wall and the plywood bottom of the chair. They are usually secured with small nails or self-tapping screws. If the plywood is suitable for further use then remove it carefully.
Remove the foam padding that sits on the bottom of the seat and gives the chair a bounce. Twist the nuts that secure the legs to the back of the furniture. If the fasteners are rusted, use a special liquid to remove corrosion from the metal.
Next, you need to remove the old upholstery and remove the softening layer from the back. To do this, use a flathead screwdriver and pliers. Pry off the old brackets with a screwdriver so that one of the mounting legs comes out wooden surface. Then the staple is finally removed with pliers.
By prying several fasteners at once, you will avoid damaging the plywood. Pull them out one by one so as not to get scratched by the staples that have not yet been pulled out. A wound on the skin rusty metal can cause a lot of trouble. Therefore, it is best to disassemble the chair with gloves or mittens.
After removing all fasteners, the old upholstery is removed and the gasket is removed. Old foam rubber can crumble and crumble into pieces. If you are restoring furniture in an apartment, then lay it on the floor polyethylene film or newspapers. And only then remove the worn softening of the chair, otherwise small debris will scatter throughout the room.
The wooden frame of the chair is restored separately. It is necessary to remove a layer of varnish or paint from it, glue loosened elements and paint all parts of the structure.
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Backrest restoration
In order to restore the chair with your own hands, you will need a special furniture stapler and attachments to it. Ordinary office braces won't work, as they are made of softer metal and their legs are much shorter. It is best to use 6 mm and 10 mm staples. To reupholster the chair, you will need about 2 packs of fasteners of the first type and 1 pack of the second.
If the tension of the tightening tapes on the back just loosened, then they can be tightened. To do this, fastening tapes are removed from one side, the tightening element itself is pulled up, and its free end is shot with a stapler. Staples need to be driven in, changing their position in relation to each other, and not fastened exactly in a row. This technique will help to avoid delamination of plywood. It is necessary to restore the tension on all elements.
If rubber bands become rough or cracked over time, they must be completely replaced with new ones.
In the design of old chairs, the longitudinal tape is passed between the transverse ties crosswise (alternately above and below the transverse tapes). If the back of the chair is curved, then it is better to put the transverse screed on top of the transverse bands. So the load on the furniture will be distributed more efficiently, and the chair will no longer be sold.
Be sure to cut all the allowances of the tapes along the frame bar or stepping back a little from its edge. Otherwise, bumps and bumps may appear under the new upholstery, spoiling its appearance.
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Removing old upholstery
Next, you need to remove the old upholstery from rear wall armchairs. Usually its edge is glued and it is not difficult to remove the fabric. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the edge and pry it off the base. If the glue holds the upholstery firmly, then cut it with a clerical knife.
Old fabric can be reused. It is pulled over the back so that the new foam pad does not tear along the tightening tapes. In addition, worn upholstery will become the basis for fixing a new softener. Therefore, it should be removed very carefully.
Now the old upholstery needs to be fixed again. Align the fabric on the back frame, then place the frame on the end. The upholstery is fixed starting from the lower left corner, shooting it with a stapler. After fixing the fabric with 1 fastener, slightly pull the upholstery to the right and place another 1 staple about 1 cm from the previous one.
The fabric must be stretched so that it does not sag, but also does not form diagonal stretched folds. Small waves are allowed. You will align them when you adjust the tension of the upholstery on the second side. But large creases will be difficult to remove.
We fix the fabric and turn the frame with the opposite side towards us. We stretch the upholstery as much as possible and fix it again. Next, we fix it around the entire perimeter of the frame, constantly slightly pulling the fabric.
At the corners, we lay oncoming folds (folding the fabric in an envelope), cutting off the excess so that the upholstery does not stick out. We fasten the staples, capturing both sides of the fold with one fastener. This will prevent the fabric from spreading. Secure all 4 corners by shooting 2-3 staples.
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Preparing the furniture seat
As carefully as you did with the back, remove the fabric from the seat and remove the worn foam. Remove all nails, old screws and screws. If the fasteners are not removed, then they must be carefully drilled out. Cut off excess fabric from the attachment points, removing threads and glue residue.
With pliers, grab about 5 mm of the rubber band and pull it on, leading it over the edge of the frame and resting it on the bar. Secure the edge of the tie with a stapler. Staples must be placed, changing their position in relation to each other. Otherwise, the rubber band may break. Re-tension all bands in the same way.
As in the case of the back, we reattach the old upholstery, repeating the previous operations. If the chair foam is not too worn, it can be reused. To do this, lay the foam from the seat across the frame so that it protrudes from three sides, and from the fourth does not reach the edge of the frame by about 10 cm. The gasket is glued, the excess is cut off with a clerical knife.
Take the old foam pad from the back and glue it to the seat. Since it is 2 times thinner, then fold it in half. Don't forget to leave a fold allowance for the frame. It is wiser to glue the gasket first, and only then cut off the excess.
All joints must be securely glued so that subsequently the foam rubber does not disperse along the seam. To do this, the joints of the gaskets are smeared with glue, left for several minutes until the surface becomes viscous. And only then the parts are connected, squeezing with force. Glue the fold last, attaching the foam to the base, and cut off excess allowances.
In the same way, a new gasket is attached if you do not want to use the old foam rubber. To soften the backrest, you will need a new softener anyway. If you do not have foam rubber of the required thickness, then you can glue 2 layers of thinner pads together.
Lay the chair back on the softener sheet. The back of the foam is aligned with the bottom edge of the chair frame. Leave a fold allowance on top. The back is outlined with a marker, then a softener is cut out.
Glue the padding to the seat back fabric and cut the edges flush with the frame. Glue all edges carefully. Only after the adhesive has completely dried, cut off a softener strip equal to the width of the bottom bar from the lower edge of the back of the chair.
Self-upholstery of upholstered furniture is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. To make the updated chair look modern, stylish and appropriate, you need to study the technology and strictly follow the instructions.
If the upholstery on the old chair has become unusable, do not rush to throw it away, just drag it with a new fabric.
In order for the restoration to be successful, you need to take into account all the subtleties, only with a thorough approach to business, the updated furniture will look good. This scheme of work can be used to update any upholstered furniture. But if worn sofa or armchair complex shape, it is better to turn to professionals (Fig. 1).
Preparatory work
For the upholstery of the chair, you will need not only materials and tools, you must also have sufficient sewing skills and perseverance. Shouldn't be ignored preparatory stage otherwise, difficulties may arise at the most inopportune moment.
For a successful stretch you will need:
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- anti-stapler;
- furniture fabric;
- foam rubber;
- synthetic winterizer;
- strong threads;
- scissors, needles, pins;
- sewing machine;
- stapler with staples.
Figure 1. Diagram of the chair.
If the chair has wood details, you will additionally need sandpaper, stain or furniture varnish.
First of all, you need to photograph the furniture from different angles. This will greatly simplify the assembly process and avoid incidents. After the subject of alteration is imprinted, you can proceed to the next step.
The chair needs to be taken apart. Remove all decorative elements and pillows. If you make a surface constriction and leave the wooden parts in a worn form, the overall impression will be hopelessly damaged.
Next, you need to very carefully remove the old upholstery. It is important not to damage the fabric, as it will act as a pattern. You can use an anti-stapler, a screwdriver and any other tools with a flat edge for these works. After the fabric is removed, you need to measure it and calculate how much fabric will be needed to sew a new upholstery. It is important to take into account the stock of material for folds and tucks.
It is necessary to assess the condition of the soft part of the chair. If the foam shows signs of dirt and wear, it should be replaced. It is better to do it right away so that in a few years the updated chair will not surprise you with a change in shape.
Figure 2. Fabrics such as tapestry, jacquard, gunny, velor, chenille are suitable for upholstery.
After that, you can go to the store for consumables. For work, you need foam rubber 3-5 cm thick, standard or increased rigidity. Such a sealant is used for the production of furniture, and it can be purchased in specialized stores. You will need upholstery material, it is better to choose a fabric labeled "furniture". Tapestry, jacquard, matting, velor, chenille are suitable for finishing upholstered furniture (Fig. 2). When buying, you need to take into account the stock of material. The presence of a pattern on the fabric will increase the consumption by about 1-2 steps of repetition of the elements of the image. And, of course, threads of a suitable shade must be taken durable, designed to work with furniture. Reinforced threads 45-70 LL are suitable (lavsan is an analogue of polyester).
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Intermediate stage of restoration
After all the tools and materials are prepared, you can proceed with the restoration.
The first step is to update the armrests, legs and all wooden elements. They must be carefully processed with sandpaper, covered with stain or varnish and left to dry.
Figure 3. Carefully remove the old upholstery from the chair and detach all parts to further create a new pattern.
Next, you can proceed to the manufacture of new upholstery. The old one, if this has not been done before, needs to be torn open, trying not to damage the fabric. Each detail must be numbered and set aside. After that, you need to mark and cut out the new upholstery (Fig. 3).
It is best to do this on the floor. Marks are applied using a special marker, chalk or a simple pencil. Cutting is more convenient with large sharp scissors. After all the details are cut out, you need to process the sections so that the fabric does not bloom. The easiest way is to hem it using the double hem method or lightly singe over an open fire. When choosing the second method, you need to act very carefully, checking the reaction of the material on unnecessary trimming.
After that, you need to sew all the details of the new upholstery on a sewing machine. It is better to “try on” a new cover several times than to redo everything.
After the upholstery is ready, you can proceed to the main part of the work on the restoration of the chair.
Chair restoration can be global or fragmentary. Sometimes it includes not only upholstery with new fabric, but also the replacement of springs and soft parts - the back and seat. What actions and in what sequence to perform, we will consider.
You will need: an old armchair, jute cords, foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, burlap, batting, any coarse fabric for a template, soft fabric for upholstery (for example, velvet), furniture buttons, staples for hidden trimming, scissors, needle, thread, furniture gun, electric knife, tailor's chalk, spray glue.
1. Not only the soft seat helps to enjoy the comfort in the chair, but also right base, which is hidden under the skin. Worn-out springs can be replaced with jute bundles - a fiber that is similar in characteristics to a rope.
2. We twist the jute strips in a checkerboard pattern and sew them with a furniture gun to the back of the chair frame.
3. Next in line is the soft seat padding. Let's make it three-layer: from foam rubber, burlap and synthetic winterizer.
4. Before cutting out the seat from the foam rubber, we will make a fabric template: we apply the fabric to the seat frame, outline the edges with tailor's chalk.
5. According to this template, we cut out two more layers - from burlap and synthetic winterizer. In this case, the cut from the synthetic winterizer should exceed the size of the template by 5-10 cm.
For cutting, it is better to use an electric knife. The usual tears and spoils the material, especially in the hands of beginners.
6. We fasten the “soft pie” of the seat in the following order: burlap (covers the jute from below and above), on the burlap - synthetic winterizer; then foam rubber (it is the soft part of the “pie”) and again a synthetic winterizer - while its edges cover the entire “pie” and are sewn to the frame.
For greater reliability, we fasten all layers of the “pie” to each other using aerosol glue.
7. Let's move on to seat upholstery. We place a piece of fabric cut according to the template in the center of the seat. Allowances on the edges should cover the entire "soft cake".
8. We shoot the fabric from the underside of the chair frame. First with large intervals, then reducing them. We methodically align the folds of the fabric on the seat.
If you are upholstering a chair for the first time, practice on pieces of old fabric: make a pattern, attach, try to feel the fabric. For both trial and final upholstery, it is better to choose soft textiles. At home, velvet is perfect. It stretches a little, which successfully hides the shortcomings of amateur furniture upholstery.
9. The most difficult thing is to beautifully sew the corners of the chair and the attachment points of the armrests. We use the so-called nesting method. If possible, it is advisable to remove the armrests before the upholstery of the chair.
10. Let's move on to the back cover. We chose the most decorative type of upholstery - capitonné stitch, with deeply seated furniture buttons covered with fabric. It is this technique that will help beginners in hauling mask all the shortcomings of the work. Smooth smooth upholstery, on the contrary, is much more difficult to perform.
11. As in the case of the restoration of the seat, we sew jute bundles to the frame. We cover them with burlap, which we also attach to the frame of the chair.
12. With an electric knife, we cut out the filling for the seat from the foam rubber. Here, remarkable efforts and an excellent eye gauge will come in handy, because even having made the back according to the template, it is important to cut it on the spot to a perfect match with the outlines of the frame.
13. Having carefully calculated the proportions, we cut holes in the foam rubber for the legs of furniture buttons - screws.
14. We cover the foam rubber with batting, in which we also cut holes.
15. We cover the “soft cake” of the back and wrap it around with a thin padding polyester. We shoot the edges with a pistol. We fix all layers with aerosol glue.
16. Cut out the fabric (with a margin at the edges) for the front of the back. On the wrong side of the fabric, mark and cut out holes for the legs of furniture buttons.
17. We cover the front of the back with a cloth, insert the buttons, shoot them with a furniture gun with reverse side. Cut off excess fabric.
Please note: the “legs” of the screws must be long enough so as not to overtighten the stitch, i.e. do not deepen the hats very much into the upholstery of the back.
18. To sew the fabric to the back without showing a single stitch, we use a special fastener, which is called a “grip-grip” * (English ply grip, flex grip, curve grip, pli grip). They have only one drawback - the complexity of the purchase: brackets (slats) for hidden sheathing are sold in specialized stores selling furniture fittings.
If you failed to purchase a bracket, you can sew the fabric on the back of the back by hand - as furniture restorers did hundreds of years ago. Another option is to shoot it with a pistol, and manually close the staples with a decorative edging. Or sew on the fabric with furniture studs with decorative hats - you must admit, a very original and practical decor, accessible even to beginners!