Many of us are familiar with the situation when we suddenly needed to paint some metal surface, and it turns out to be all covered with rust. And with a question "how to paint a rusty pipe" faced by everyone who lives in old Soviet-built houses.
Indeed, under the influence of aggressive external environment metal surfaces often rust. Many do not pay attention to this and just paint over the rust. However, after some time, they are convinced that it was still worth preparing the metal for painting correctly. Not only does the rust-painted surface look very unaesthetic, but the paint begins to peel off from it very quickly.
This short article will tell you how to properly prepare a rusty surface for painting.
Depending on the amount of rust and the degree of its penetration into the metal, you can use one or more of the following steps to prepare the painted surface for painting.
Mechanical cleaning of the surface from rust
The first step, of course, is to remove large pieces of rust by mechanically cleaning the surface. This is usually done with a metal brush for manual cleaning or metal nozzle on a grinder or drill to speed up the process.
The stage of mechanical cleaning from rust, unlike the subsequent ones, is mandatory, although quite laborious. However, even if you finish the pre-painting process at this stage, your painted surface will already look much better and the paint will last much longer.
After cleaning the surface in this way, it is highly desirable to smooth it with grinder in order to remove and even out all the bumps and scratches on the metal. Of course, if you have a very large surface to paint, it will be faster and easier to use a sandblaster, but not everyone has access to such equipment, so we will not delve into this issue.
Chemical surface cleaning
If it is not possible to remove all rust mechanically, it makes sense to use chemicals. These are acid-based products that simply corrode and dissolve rust on the surface.
Do not forget that when working with such products, as with any acids, you should be very careful and follow safety measures.
Degreasing, priming and surface painting
After removing the main layer of rust using one of the above methods, for a good adhesion of the paint, the surface must be degreased. Any strong detergent will work for this.
The next and final step in preparing the surface for painting is to coat it with a primer. This step should not be skipped if you want your surface to look smooth and evenly colored. Apply primer as directed mechanically or with a sprayer.
That's it, now you can paint. Apply the paint to the surface using a brush, roller or spray gun. It is recommended to paint in two layers, so that there will definitely not be any unpainted areas on the surface.
And if the metal has rusted so much that there is no point in painting it, it may be worth replacing the part with a new one and getting rid of the old one. You can do it even with a little extra money. Where to hand over scrap metal you can find on this site. They will gladly accept your metal products and pay good money for it.
Mitka 02-10-2008 23:19
As supporting pillars for the intake slabs, I used bush pipes, which, on the outside, are, of course, rusted.
I want to paint directly on top of the rust, without prior sanding (for painting as many as 50 posts 4m long). In this regard, the question is: how to paint with such thermonuclear, so that it lasts for as long as possible?
passerby 03-10-2008 08:54
Without processing, nothing can be painted so that it holds. Loose rust will still need to be removed. For speed, I advise you to do this with a grinder with a radial metal brush. I painted such poles-pipes in exactly this way - I cleaned them with a "grinder" with a metal brush (only with a radial one - the "cup" gives a very strong vibration) and covered it with paint-primer "on rust" (Yaroslavl pr-va, or something .. .) they stood for a year - nowhere did anything fall off the coating.
petrovich 03-10-2008 11:39
I remember there was some kind of crap in the old days, adding paint, it was called a rust converter.
Mitka 03-10-2008 11:39
What about Hammerite? Should you spend? Or are there domestic analogues "for rust" of the same durability?
passerby 03-10-2008 12:16
What about Hammerite? Should you spend? Or are there domestic analogues "for rust" of the same durability?
Hammerite - paint is not bad, but expensive enough. And it also requires surface preparation - removal of loose rust. I used Yaroslavl paint-primer for rust to paint the pillars (I don’t remember the exact name anymore - something like “rust stop”) - it’s holding up fine so far. True, the paint has wintered for a year - but so far it is holding on. I think that it is not necessary to buy expensive paint for fence posts - the thickness of the pipes is such that they will burn out even without any protection in 15-20 years. And if you paint - then if the paint does not fit too well - on next year can be repainted.
Ann 03-10-2008 12:50
And why is it bad to shed with zinc first, and then paint with paint?
passerby 03-10-2008 12:59
quote: Originally posted by Ann:
And why is it bad to shed with zinc first, and then paint with paint?
Quite good. But in terms of 50 pillars - how much will it be necessary to buy also "zincar"? And is it worth it? As I wrote above, pipe pillars do not require corrosion protection for 50 years, especially since no one will prevent them from rusting from the inside.
Nafigvajag 03-10-2008 13:09
Two years ago I put up a fence from the same pipes. I cleaned it with a grinder with a rough flip, welded the upper ends with round lids, otherwise it will pour water and tear ... I painted it with hammerite, while they are standing, everything is fine ...
Mitka 03-10-2008 13:28
In general, it turns out that you will need to clean it with a grinder ... Blah, there you will need to carry 150 meters.
passerby 03-10-2008 13:42
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
In general, it turns out that you will need to clean it with a grinder ... Blah, there you will need to carry 150 meters.
Carrying and so will come in handy on the site. However, you can simply clean it with a metal brush - the main thing is to tear off the loose layer, it is not necessary to clean it to bare metal (in my opinion) ...
Mitka 03-10-2008 14:13
I'll scrape 50 pillars with a brush
passerby 03-10-2008 14:17
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
I'll scrape 50 pillars with a brush
Mitka 03-10-2008 14:24
Do you need to wipe the posts after "cleaning"?
passerby 03-10-2008 14:27
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
Do you need to wipe the posts after "cleaning"?
Be sure to wipe with white spirit before painting. It won't take much time, white spirit won't take too much either.
DrLupus 03-10-2008 15:39
I make it easier. Kuzbass varnish, aka "Bitumen varnish", right on rust. I clean off the rust only if it is completely ... It falls off like cakes. Metal brush.
And so, if without thick layers, then the bitumen process easily stops - it does not let air into the metal. Cheap and cheerful.
There are also disadvantages. It dries badly, although if you don’t sit on the fence backwards, then don’t care.
Color - only black is obtained, this may not suit everyone.
Mitka 03-10-2008 16:16
quote: Originally posted by Rombal-Cochet:How did you ruin nature?
Why do you need such terrible fences?
Sorry for the offtopic, I couldn't resist looking at the photo.
Well, you have to live with us for a start. Then we'll see what kind of fences you will put up ...
TAURUS 03-10-2008 16:42
maybe smear grease, lithol, cannon fat with something greasy ... wrap it with foil and into the ground?
ASDER_K 03-10-2008 17:32
Without processing, nothing can be painted so that it holds. Loose rust will still need to be removed. For speed, I advise you to do this with a grinder with a radial metal brush. I painted such poles-pipes in this way - I cleaned them with a "grinder" with a metal brush (only with a radial one - the "cup" gives a very strong vibration)
+1
quote: Originally posted by Passerby:
And it's not as long as it seems. If you take a good metal brush, it will take you 3 minutes maximum for 1 post. After all, as I wrote above - it is not necessary to clean up the metal, just remove the rust. Perhaps it will be even faster than a grinder ...
sizzle 50 poles to wave ... I tried - on the third I went for a drill with a brush ...
sergeant 03-10-2008 17:42
quote: there carrying 150 meters will be needed.
Why??
clean from dirt and rust in one place, and drag the poles to their places as needed.
psm 03-10-2008 18:19
quote: Originally posted by Passerby:And it's not as long as it seems. If you take a good metal brush, it will take you 3 minutes maximum for 1 post. After all, as I wrote above - it is not necessary to clean up the metal, just remove the rust. Perhaps it will be even faster than a grinder ...
Gastrobaiten?
Mitka 03-10-2008 18:50
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
Why??
clean from dirt and rust in one place, and drag the poles to their places as needed.
Everything is already installed
cocoa 04-10-2008 12:42
Although I have not 50 tons of poles, but a little less than half of this. So I welded and painted bitumen with a working-out, for a dozen already and I don’t even fit.
True, the first two years I didn’t podkhldil. sticky and smeared. And then dust, dirt ate up and there are gray-burmaline, but judging by the photo, the color is purple for you. Yes, it’s also cheap, and if you also add a wax with paraffin there, and smear it hot on any rust, I guarantee it will last longer than iron.
Sincerely.
P.S. Also pour inside the mining pipe with a smear along the generatrix.
Mitka 04-10-2008 14:39
pipes are already welded on top. Damn, I can't find bituminous varnish anywhere
Mitka 04-10-2008 14:43
And another question: if you open it with bituminous varnish, will it be possible over time, for example, in a year, to cover it with paint?
cocoa 04-10-2008 23:33
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
cover it with paint?
I'm afraid it's unlikely. I have on old apartment the cast-iron sewer riser was first painted with bituminous varnish (this is cheaper for the housing office), and I already painted two layers on top. And after a while this lachok got out with such spots, I didn’t know what to do.
Sincerely.
cocoa 04-10-2008 23:39
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
Damn, I can't find bituminous varnish anywhere
It is now called Kuzbass varnish and costs less than dirt. Identity nothing decision something that is in the country iron painted by him. For a long time, at least five years, but it can already be refreshed, although it will stand for a long time.
Sincerely.
Mitka 05-10-2008 01:04
In general, I bought a 3-component alkyd enamel"Rzhavostop" Tomorrow I'll clean everything up, wipe it with white spirit and paint it. I'll post the results.
alchemist 07-10-2008 14:24
hamerright or mastic for cars, we painted such a chain-link and poles without stripping, made it thinner and forverst.
7 years defended and at least henna
Mitka 07-10-2008 15:34
Rust was obscenely small. All cleaned up with a brush, painted. It turned out nice. Let's see how long they last.
How to paint rusty gate you ask. For such purposes, there are so-called 3-in-one primer enamels for interior and exterior use. They perform a triple action: rust removal, priming and painting, protection against further corrosion. If a old paint on your gate began to peel off, then it is desirable to process such areas with emery (sand). Next, the surface is painted with such a three-component enamel. From domestic manufacturers I can recommend trademark"Spetsnaz". Pretty good paint.
Rust paint for iron gates
Coloring garage doors and metal fences begins with the traditional question: what to do with rust? Usually by the time it is decided to make repairs, metal constructions have time to a greater or lesser extent covered with rust spots.
Repair manuals published in the past, including in the recent past, indicated a single sequence of actions:
- remove rust and scale,
- degrease the surface
- and then prime and paint the metal surface.
The most time-consuming step was precisely the removal of rust. This time-consuming work takes about 80% of the time devoted to repairs. Moreover, as a rule, it is not possible to completely remove rust, especially on forged products of complex shape.
If unscrupulous repairmen did not try to carefully remove rust, but covered a poorly prepared surface with ordinary paint, then soon the paint began to lag behind, and the iron continued to rust intensely.
One of the insidious properties of rust is that it serves as a catalyst for the further oxidation of iron. Not in vain for pure metal rust does not appear evenly over the entire surface, but in the form of small spots-foci, which then grow rapidly.
A great success in the fight against rust was the creation of special chemical compounds- rust modifier and rust inhibitor.
- The rust modifier reacts with rust to change chemical formula this connection. This slows down the oxidation process as the catalyst is removed.
- A rust inhibitor is a substance that prevents the formation of rust.
The good news for anyone who periodically paints iron structures was the introduction of "paint over rust" on the market. In stores where paintwork is sold, you can ask about the availability of such paint. Its use Of course, loose rust will still have to be removed, along with dirt. But dense rust can not be touched. Paint "on rust" contains a modifier and a rust inhibitor; in addition, it contains epoxy acid based compounds to create a durable protective layer.
There are several types of rust paints. Some of them are supplied in two packages - the contents of each package should be dissolved separately, and then combined and immediately applied to the surface. ready mix cannot be stored, this was the inconvenience of such paint.
Currently, there is a rust paint in one package, it is in the greatest demand. The price of rust paint is higher than the price regular paint. Maybe. wholesale paint and varnish products - an inappropriate purchase if the properties of the new paint are unfamiliar to you. You can first purchase the smallest package and practice using it.
Ecology of knowledge. Homestead: Sometimes in a matter of a year or two, or even less, it would seem that new metal structures can become covered with a layer of rust. For painting such surfaces there are paints and varnishes allowing painting without removing the rusted metal layer.
One of the main conditions for high-quality painting, including anti-corrosion painting, is a thorough preparation of the surface for coating. But it is not always possible to clean and prepare a metal surface covered with a layer of rust. There are special paints and varnishes that allow painting without removing the rusty metal layer.
Rusting of metals
Metal structures are exposed to rust, and these processes occur in steps, chemical reactions flow into one another. Prerequisites and conditions for the start of the rusting process: the metal contains certain impurities (carbon and sulfur), oxygen and water are available to the surface. Carbon and sulfur, which are part of the steels as additives, act as corrosion enhancers - the layer of rust formed is destroyed, a new layer of metal is exposed and the process continues.
If there is an acidic environment and/or salts are present, the rusting processes are accelerated even more. Acidity is increased by substances that are contained in atmospheric water - sulfurous and carbonic acid. Water causes corrosion of unprotected metal surfaces, regardless of state of aggregation- in the form of vapors, liquid phase or ice.
When metals rust, the resulting layer of rust does not protect the surface, as in the case of passivation (creation protective film on metals) and cannot prevent subsequent corrosion. Rust has a loose and hygroscopic structure, instantly accumulates moisture from the air and retains it. As a result, if rusting has begun, then the growth of rusty layers accelerates oxidative processes for two reasons: the conditional thickness of the metal decreases and the duration of contact with moisture and air oxygen increases.
In normal cases, it makes no sense to paint metals over a layer of rust. Moisture and air are accumulated in the pores of the loose structure, which is sufficient to continue the processes of destruction of metals under the paint layer. In addition, rust cannot be compared with steel in terms of density, it is a weak and loose layer, and as a result, a stress zone is formed under the paint layer - an expansion of corroded metal. As a result, the paint layer is covered with through craquelure cracks, and the paint is quickly destroyed and flies from the surface even if the paint coating is locally damaged.
Under what conditions can metals be painted without stripping
Training metal element for painting consists of stripping, grinding, priming for two times and applying a protective paint layer under finishing. But it is not always possible to clean metal surfaces, for various reasons - tightness, inaccessibility of the element, etc. In some cases, it is possible, and much easier, to apply special coatings. But the presence of these special coatings, of course, does not mean that you can do without any preparation for painting. This is not the case, for several reasons.
Firstly, a loose rusty surface layer has accumulated moisture, air, and possibly substances that can activate corrosion even without oxygen and water. In this case, under a layer of any paint, oxidation reactions will continue, and it is not known how this will affect the paint layer - the operating conditions of the coatings will be too extreme.
Secondly, the surface of the element to be painted may have different characteristics quality. If the rust is formed in a uniform layer of small thickness, like a powdered powder, then the paint will be able to adhere to the base metal, penetrating through the rusty layer, and there will be adhesion.
In this case, the painted layer will be durable and rusting will either slow down very much or stop altogether. But if the rusty layer is swollen, the rust begins to flake off, then any paint, even a special one, will fall behind such a surface. Peeling of the paint layer is also guaranteed if there is an oil layer on the metal (for example, the rolled profile has not been degreased). If there are residual oil impurities on the surface, then the behavior of the paint coating is difficult to predict.
About surface preparation for painting
All metal structures require surface preparation for painting, at least to a minimum. Preparation methods depend on the condition of these surfaces:
- If rust is manifested in the form of small spots or a uniform thin layer, then the preparation consists in degreasing and dedusting. Wipe metal surfaces with rags with abundant wetting with solvents. Degreasers in aerosol packages have a good effect, which include corrosion inhibitors (inhibitors), which reduce the chemical activity under the paint coating to zero.
- In cases where the surface is heavily rusted, then clean manually, using a scraper. Exfoliating rust is peeled off and then treated with metal brushes. Stripping up metallic luster not needed, a layer of rust may remain if it is dense, strong and adherent to the metal surface, and preferably uniform.
Complete drying of the metal surface for painting is a prerequisite. If possible, the products are kept under a roof in conditions close to normal - humidity up to 45% and temperature 18 - 30⁰С. In order to paint stationary structures with the highest quality in atmospheric conditions, painting is timed in warm sunny weather, at least three days before painting. It is important that the moisture evaporates from the layers of rust as much as possible, this will significantly reduce the risk of rapid damage to the paint coatings.
Priming
It is possible to apply paint without first removing rusty layers in several ways, but the main technologies are possible only in the factory. Heavy steel structures undergo special protective treatment before being sent to the construction site. For private construction, two methods are possible:
- Passivation of the surface with compounds containing phosphoric acid, and then coating with two-component paints. These paints are considered expensive, but there is an effect from their use. The layer with which the two-component composition is applied is thicker and forms a strong film. Such a film makes even minimal gas exchange impossible, oxygen and water vapor do not get under the coating. In addition, two-component paints have elasticity at high coating hardness, and swelling rust is limited, its layer is compacted and further oxidation reactions on the surface under the paint layer are slowed down to zero.
- Application of a coat of universal primer, provided the composition is suitable for rust coating, and subsequent painting with alkyd or polyurethane enamels. This method are classified as budget. Primer and enamel will protect the structure for about two to three years, after which it is necessary to renew the coating. Enamel layers are re-degreased and cleaned, and applied over next layer. With time total thickness coverage will be sufficient to ensure complete isolation of the structure from the atmospheric environment.
Paint requirements and application
- To cover an untreated surface, paintwork materials are used that have the following properties:
- The thickness of the formed weather-resistant film is not less than 150 microns
- Inhibition of corrosion under the paint layer (composition contains corrosion inhibitors)
- Modification of formed rust, partial passivation
Different paint compositions give different coating thicknesses, and the final resistance to external influences is affected by the quality and degree of chemical purity of the base. Weather-resistant paints are based on organic solvent bases and contain various additives and additives. These supplements can give different effects. Ideally, the protective coating acts in such a way that the rust is deactivated simultaneously with the zero yield of all introduced substances. The reactants must react, and all the resulting substances should ideally be neutral compounds.
But such an ideal result is impossible in real life, since rust is a little different everywhere - both in chemical composition and in physical properties, depending on the operating conditions of the painted structure, steel grade and environmental conditions. The optimal proportion of additives and additives is developed by manufacturers of special paints, and the exact recipes are a secret. The complex effect gives the use of substances:
- Passivating compounds and substances that modify the upper layers of rust
- Substances that increase adhesion not only in the contact zone of the rust layer and the paint coating, but also throughout the entire volume of the layer damaged by rust, to a depth
- Binding of oxygen penetrating under the paint layer by adding active substances
- Penetrating solvents and primer, ensuring deep penetration of the paint composition into the porous structure of the rust-damaged layer
The results of painting metal structures directly depend on the quality of the applied paintwork materials. It is impossible to provide protection for many years using budget pentaphthal enamel.
To protect the metal working under atmospheric influences, against corrosion, a special weather-resistant paint should be used. This data is available in the labeling of the compositions: the alphabetic and numeric codes contain all the information. For example, the number one after the hyphen indicates that this composition is weather-resistant, five - respectively, special.
Alkyd and polyurethane enamels give a good protection effect. The application of special enamels is regulated by the manufacturer - in terms of the admissibility of painting with rollers, brushes or sprayers. LKM packages contain relevant information in the form of pictograms, and you can decide on the choice of a specific composition for processing elements various sizes and form.publishedIf you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.
Most protective enamels require the preparation of metal surfaces before application, which is not always possible. In certain cases, it is allowed to use special types of paints that do not require rust removal. We will talk about such paints and varnishes and the specifics of their use on metal for rust.
What is the problem with rust?
rusting steel structures- a multi-stage process, including up to a dozen chemical reactions flowing from one to another. There are three mandatory conditions for the appearance of rust: the presence of oxygen, water in any form and certain impurities in the steel melt. It is the presence of carbon or sulfur in the composition of steel that contributes to the destruction of the layer of rust formed and the exposure of more and more new layers of metal. The process can be greatly accelerated in the presence of salts or when hyperacidity. The sources of the latter can be solutions of carbonate and sulfurous acid in atmospheric moisture.
Unlike passivation, rust does not prevent further oxidation of the steel. The structure of rust is loose and hygroscopic, which contributes to the rapid accumulation of moisture and its retention. Thus, with the growth of the rust layer, the course of oxidative processes accelerates: both due to a decrease in the conditional thickness of the metal, and due to an increase in the duration of contact with water and oxygen.
Usually painting metal for rust does not make sense. A certain amount of moisture and air accumulates inside the pores, which is enough for rusting to proceed even after processing. The density of rust is lower than that of steel, so high stresses are formed under the paint layer - the transformed metal is constantly expanding. The coating is quickly covered with a network of through craquelure and flies around, it is enough to damage the paint layer at least in one place.
When is it possible to paint without stripping
General training complex metal products for painting includes cleaning, grinding, coating with a primer and a layer of protective enamel. However, stripping is not always possible, in some cases it is easier to apply a coating with special characteristics. Let's try to figure it out.
The first criterion that affects the possibility of painting over rust, we considered above, is the density of the rusty layer. More precisely, the ability of the product to accumulate corrosion activators. Over time, the diversity and content of active chemical compounds increases, due to which, even in the absence of oxygen and moisture, reactions will still occur inside. It is impossible to predict how the coating will behave in such operating conditions.
Another the most important factor- surface quality. A small uniform layer of rust, similar to powdered powder, allows the paint to penetrate to the metal surface and firmly bond with the “body” of the product. But the presence of blisters and delaminations on the rusty layer is almost guaranteed to lead to the destruction of the protective coating. Negative influence caused by oil residues: if the rolled product has not been degreased, oil impurities can have an unpredictable effect on the protective layer.
Surface preparation
We smoothly approached the fact that rusty steel products require minimal, but processing, before painting. How to prepare products depends on their condition.
Surfaces rusted with small spots or a uniform thin layer require dedusting and degreasing. It is enough to wipe them with a rag, abundantly moistened with a solvent. Also a good option- use aerosol degreasers: they contain corrosion inhibitors that allow you to reduce the chemical activity under the protective layer to zero.
Heavily rusty surfaces must be manually cleaned: chip off large delaminations, peel off with a scraper, then treat potholes and small shells with a metal brush. There is no need to polish to a shine: the surface may be covered with rust, but the final coat should be dense, durable and as uniform as possible.
Required condition before painting on rust - thorough drying of the part. If possible, keep the product in room conditions at a humidity of 40-50% and a temperature of 20-25 °C. If the product is permanently fixed in the open air - appoint painting after 3-4 days of exposure in warm sunny weather. The more moisture that has time to evaporate from the rusty layer, the less will be the risk of premature damage to the coating.
Ground application
There are about a dozen ways to apply paint without removing rust. Most of this group of technologies involves factory methods of processing and preparing products, as a rule, we are talking about protective treatment heavy steel structures for construction. In private, there are two options:
- Cover with expensive two-component paint, having previously treated the surface with a passivating composition, usually containing phosphoric acid.
- Opening with a universal primer suitable for application over rust, followed by painting with alkyd or polyurethane enamel.
The practical difference between these two methods lies in the cost of materials and the durability of the protective coating. Two-component paints are applied in a thicker layer and form a durable film. Unlike conventional enamels, such a coating does not allow even minimal gas exchange, air and water vapor do not penetrate into the rust. In addition, the paint has a higher hardness and at the same time retains elasticity, it is able to withstand even very significant swelling of rust. In this case, the layer of corroded iron is constantly compacted, and the reaction subsides.
The budget type of coating in the form of primer and enamel ensures the safety of the product for no more than 2-3 years and requires regular updating. The latter consists in stripping and degreasing the enamel layer, followed by the application of the next one. The essence is the same: over time, the thickness of the paint layer becomes large enough to ensure complete isolation of the product from atmospheric influences.
Choosing and applying paint
All paints intended for untreated surfaces must have three qualities:
- Weather resistance, the formation of a film with a thickness of at least 150 microns.
- The ability to slow down corrosion (inhibition).
- The ability to modify the composition of an existing rust layer for partial passivation.
As we have already said, the thickness of the coating depends on the type of paint, resistance to various kinds of influences - on the quality and chemical purity of the base. Weatherproof paint can only be based on organic solvents. But with various kinds of additives and additives, the situation is individual.
The ideal result of the protective coating is zero yield of reagents during the rust deactivation process. All added substances must react in in full, forming chemically neutral compounds as the output product. In reality, this is impossible, because the composition of rust is always different, it depends on the environment, the steel grade, and the conditions of its maintenance.
It is very difficult to develop optimal ratios of additives, and therefore their exact formulation is not disclosed. You can judge the quality by the complexity of the effects, the best indicators are:
- Passivators and modifiers of the upper layer.
- Means of increasing adhesion, acting not only at the rust-coating interface, but also in depth.
- Active substances that bind incoming oxygen.
- High-quality solvents that provide deep penetration of paint and primer into the pores.
Ultimately, the result directly depends on the quality of the paintwork. It is foolish to expect that cheap enamel paints such as PF-266 will provide high-quality and reliable long-term protection. In order to protect against the development of existing corrosion, only weather-resistant and special paints, in the marking of which, after the letter code, the number 1 or 5 is indicated with a hyphen, respectively. Most suitable type Corrosion resistance bases have alkyd and polyurethane enamel paints.
As for the method of application, the majority enamel paints are universal in this respect. The label invariably indicates the pictograms that determine the admissibility of work with a roller, brush and spray, so the final choice must be made based on the size and shape of the processed products.