How to lay new electrical wiring in an old apartment. How to change the wiring in the apartment

Features of the work when it is required to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment

Very often, it is necessary to replace the wiring in those houses that were built in the last century. These are brezhnevkas, Khrushchevs and other buildings. During the construction of these buildings, a different calculation of the load on the electrical wiring was made. During this period, there was not a wide variety of household appliances, which cannot be said about modern times.

Phased implementation: wiring replacement

If you need to replace the wiring in the apartment, then the estimated scope of work is estimated. In this case, it is necessary to clarify whether full or partial replacement of the wiring will be made. Application of the second replacement option electrical wiring less rare. This is due to the fact that the Khrushchevs or panel houses need a complete replacement.

Previously, electrical wiring was installed using aluminum cables that had a small cross section. Very often, the wiring was characterized by a lack of grounding. The danger lies in the operation of electrical wiring with high mains voltage.

Today, it is possible to replace the wiring in an apartment using copper wire, junction boxes and sockets that are grounded. In this case, innovative materials are used.

That is why, during the period of making a decision to change the electrical network in your home, you need to think about the level of safety and make its complete replacement. In the absence of relevant experience in the field of replacement electrical network you can ask for help from professionals, one of which is the company Electrical Installation Kazan +. Highly qualified specialists work here, who thoroughly know the peculiarities of replacing electrical wiring, which ensures the excellent quality of the procedure. Due to the availability of special equipment, the fastest possible work is ensured.

You must make your own decisions about who will replace the wiring: you do it yourself or experienced specialists.

Carrying out electrical work on your own is not so difficult, but it requires not only use special tool, but also the availability of appropriate knowledge to carry out calculations and the work itself.

Preparatory stage

In order to change the wiring, it is necessary to draw up a project. In this case, it is necessary to draw up a scheme for laying a new electrical network. During this period, it is necessary to determine where the switches, sockets, junction boxes will be located, to connect a powerful Appliances... The scheme must necessarily include the location of the washing and dishwasher, water heater, electric stove, etc. The specialists of the company Electrical installation Kazan + are ready to draw up a diagram for high level quality.

With the help of the scheme, the selection of materials is made that will fully meet the requirements of a particular dwelling. If you still decide to make a project yourself, then you need to decide where the junction boxes will be located. After graduation renovation works in the house, it is necessary to place sockets and switches in the safest and most convenient places.

When choosing materials for the installation of the electrical box, it is strongly recommended to follow the advice of specialists.

Carrying out work: replacing the wiring in the apartment

Before removing the old electrical wiring from the object, it is necessary to de-energize the apartment; in this case, a check should be performed using a multimeter. It is necessary to move electrical appliances and furniture away from the walls, as well as dismantle sockets and switches.

Very often the wire is in the wall using a metal detector. For dismantling electrical wiring in panel house very often you just need to pull the cable out of the junction boxes. But very often it happens that the dismantling leads to the destruction of the wall. In this case, it is necessary to use the gutter method.

This method consists in trimming a complex area and completely isolating it.

After removing the old wiring, it is necessary to prepare the walls for laying new cables. To this end, it is necessary to make recesses for the wiring and mark the locations of the switches and sockets.

Depending on the condition of the wall, it is possible to lay new cables in the old ducts. To obtain even strobes, it is initially necessary to mark their location. It is necessary to draw two even parallel lines at a distance of two centimeters. You need to walk along them with a grinder, making four-centimeter indentations. Next, using a hammer or chisel, you need to remove the middle. You can also use a puncher for this purpose.

The next step is to install the junction boxes and fix them. Boxes are fixed with cement mortar... The cable is laid between the switchboard and the junction boxes.

To connect the wires to each other, you must use the terminals. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the ends of the cable in the phase are not confused. All strands are placed in junction boxes.

For correct connection cables between each other, they will be stripped at the ends by 3-4 centimeters. Next, their ends are twisted and cut to 1 centimeter in length. For insulation, a clamp or special tape can be used. Next, the cable is wired along the groove to the sockets and switches.

After laying the cable, you need to take a photo, which will greatly simplify the search for wiring in the event of a power failure.

To establish the wiring in the switchboard, cables are divided into separate lines. Each of them is characterized by the presence of its own switch. Such an action must be performed without fail if the apartment has powerful household appliances, which is explained by the future operation of the high voltage power line. When distributing lines, the process of repairing electrical wiring is greatly simplified.

The specialists of the company "Electromontazh Kazan +" produce additional insulation of cables using conventional or corrugated pipes, the laying of which is carried out in the grooves. With such a laying of the wiring during the repair, it will not be necessary to carry out the wall chasing.

After the electrical network is wired using the methods of ringing the wiring with a multimeter, the strobes are lubricated with a solution. If there are no defects in the wiring, then it is connected to the electrical panel. During this period, it is necessary to check how the sockets and switches work.

At the next stage, the dwelling is de-energized and all the depressions are covered. After high-quality drying of the cement mortar, the sockets, switches, lamps are connected.

The company's specialists are ready to carry out the above procedure to the maximum short time at an acceptable cost.

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How to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment? Stages

Many apartments of old samples require replacement of the wiring due to the appearance of various problems. This action can be performed in several stages.

Planning

In order to replace the wiring correctly, you must first draw up a plan. It necessarily takes into account the location of sockets and switches. Also at this stage you need to determine where the junction boxes, lighting sources, electrical appliances, electrical panel, wires will be located.

Modern apartments are characterized by the presence of one cable for a specific group of consumers. That is why, during a breakdown of electrical wiring, a certain zone is turned off. If it is necessary to replace the wiring in the bathroom, then the location of the RCD is provided. This is due to the high humidity in the room.

Features of the work

Before replacing the wiring in the apartment, it is necessary to prepare all the tools. The apartment must be completely de-energized. In order to ensure the operation of the electrical devices necessary for the installation, a temporary hut is being set up. This is an outlet powered by an external meter using an extension cord.

Remove old wiring before installation. Work begins from the junction box. The main wire is cut or insulated. The same manipulations are carried out with the rest of the wiring. At the next stage, the process of chipping the walls is carried out. The user should remember that the wiring can only be installed in a vertical or horizontal position. After laying the wiring in the grooves, the sockets, switches and lighting fixtures... After connecting the wiring in accordance with the plan, it is necessary to check its operability. If everything is in order, then the electric current is supplied to the apartment.

The company provides its services for the replacement of electrical wiring. Experienced employees of the company are ready to carry out electrical work as soon as possible, regardless of the level of complexity of the plan. The company provides quality guarantees for the work performed, which allows the client to be confident in the system's performance. You can also produce the material to replace the posting at a discount in your company.

Everything apartment buildings already have electrical wiring installed in the apartment. During repairs or when re-planning the premises, it becomes necessary to re-lay all the wires and connect all the devices. Besides old wiring it is not designed for a large number of powerful consumers in a modern home and becomes fragile and brittle over time, so it must be replaced for safety reasons. We offer step-by-step instructions on how to replace the wiring with your own hands.

Drawing up a plan diagram

Any wiring work begins with a study old scheme connections and features of the input of power wires into the apartment.

To do this, it is convenient to use a copy of the apartment plan, on which you can mark the installation locations of sockets, switches, lamps. The starting point is a switchboard with a meter near the entrance to the apartment. At this stage, knowledge from the school physics course is quite enough. In the future, the diagram will help to correctly calculate the number of wires and fittings and will help with repair and maintenance.

Planning rules:

The wiring route must run strictly vertically and horizontally, and make all turns at right angles. This is necessary for safety and with this arrangement, it is more difficult to damage the line.
Optimal would be laying in the upper part of the wall at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ceiling or along the floor inside a special electrical skirting board.
Switches are located at the entrance to the room from the side doorknob... Their height from the floor is not regulated, but in most cases it is more convenient to place them no higher than 80 cm.
The sockets according to the European standard are located at a height of 30 cm, but in different rooms they can be positioned at the required height. For example, in the children's room, remove them higher, in the kitchen, place them near the table, etc.
The optimal number of sockets is 1 piece per 6 sq. M. For a kitchen or bathroom, the number of outlets should match the number of electrical appliances in operation. The distance from the door or window opening is at least 10 cm.
Each room must have at least one junction box. An exception is installation of wiring without junction boxes, when installation and wiring is carried out in socket boxes.
It is advisable to turn on the RCD for 30 mA at the entrance to the apartment and 10 mA in the bathroom in the circuit, to protect against electric shock.

Also, on the diagram, you need to take into account the layout of the apartment and possible options arrangement of furniture so that you do not have to use extension cords or remodel sockets. When you figured out how to carry out the wiring, you need to calculate the length of the wires, the number of sockets and switches, additional accessories. Now you can go to the store with this estimate.

Choice of components

Let's start by choosing a cable. You can find cables with aluminum and copper filling. The former are cheaper, but they conduct electric current worse with the same cross-section, are not elastic enough, are prone to overheating. Therefore, for apartment wiring, copper wires are considered the best, which can easily withstand heavy loads, are durable and do not oxidize. The sheath should be PVC or any other non-combustible material.

We calculate the cable cross-section according to the diagram and take into account the maximum power of all electrical appliances for each branch. For sockets, the wire cross-section is at least 2.5 mm2, and the power machine is designed for a current of 20 A. For lighting, 1.5 mm2 and a 16 A machine are enough, and powerful electrical devices must be powered through wires with a cross section of 4 mm2 and protected by a 25-ampere automatic.

All cables must be routed separately from each other inside the corrugated tubes to avoid overheating and fire.

The choice of sockets, switches, cable channels, junction boxes and other small accessories should be carried out according to the same principle.

For high-quality and durable repairs, choose only products from trusted brands that comply with GOST and SNiP and have the Rostest badge.

Sockets can be with or without grounding. A grounding contact is mandatory for connecting electrical appliances in the kitchen and bathroom. A protective cover or curtain on the outlet will be useful in a child's room. There are also exotic options with a shutdown timer or a button for ejecting the plug.

Switches are single-key and with several keys, for controlling several lamps in walk-through areas. Convenient backlit switches and built-in dimmers.

All electrical devices have contacts for connecting wires. They are of two types: screw and quick-clamping. Screws are simpler and cheaper, but they require regular tightening of the terminals so that contact with the wire does not deteriorate. Contacts with clamping the terminals with a spring are devoid of this drawback, the force is always constant and the human factor is completely excluded (there are poorly pressed wires in the connectors).

RCD - residual current device is increasingly found in wiring diagrams in an apartment. The benefits of it are obvious: the device monitors the leakage of current in the network and, if the threshold value is exceeded, de-energizes the entire network completely. So, if the insulation of the wire is damaged or the connected device overheats, a leakage current occurs, which is fixed by the device. The use of an RCD fully protects against damage electric shock when inadvertently touching a bare wire.

RCD connection

Wall preparation and marking

Installation of electrical wiring in an apartment is of two types - closed and open. Open way wires are laid in cable channels or fixed directly to the walls. All sockets and switches are also mounted without burying. This method does not require time-consuming operations and is relatively simple, but less aesthetic. This layout can be used in the garden, garage, closet.

For closed placement of wires, we need to make recesses and slots in the wall along the entire line, you can use technological holes in the walls and ceiling. But after the cables are terminated, a flat surface is obtained, ready for fine finish... Only this option is used for apartments. It is possible to place the main cable lines on the ceiling, followed by the installation of a stretch or suspended ceiling.

The preparation of the walls begins with cleaning them from old wallpaper and plaster, dismantling the old wiring, after which the markings are applied according to the plan diagram. At this stage, it is convenient to mark the cable runs using laser level or a long cord.

According to the marking, grooves are grooved with the help of a grinder and a chisel or a special groove cutter, grooves are made for junction boxes and sockets with switches. To do this, you will need a perforator with special drill bits for concrete. This is the most time-consuming part of the repair, so if you doubt your abilities or you do not have the right tool, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

To work with wires, it is worth purchasing special mounting nippers, which quickly and accurately cut the wires and remove the insulation from them. With their help, bare contacts can be sealed with copper pipes.

Installation of hidden wiring

Now you can start directly laying the line. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

We turn off the switch in the dashboard at the entrance to the apartment. Armed with a multimeter or indicator screwdriver, we check the presence of voltage in the network and only after that we start working.
After the meter, we install a junction box with a bar for circuit breakers, from which each cable line will be run. An RCD is installed in front of the junction box, in which the input wire should always start from the top, and the exit to the apartment from the bottom. The RCD can be one for an apartment or several for different groups of electrical appliances.
At the exit, there may be a common junction box, from which the wires will already go to their rooms. Instead of one such box, individual boxes can be installed in the premises.
We must remove the wires into corrugated tubes made of non-combustible material. In the future, this will simplify the repair, and the wires will not overheat.
We make a tack to the wall of wires with special fasteners (clamps) or diluted alabaster at regular intervals.
We leave extra 15-20 cm of wires at the sockets and switches for connection and repair. In places where it is planned pendant lights, you need to leave up to 1 meter of cable, depending on the design of the chandelier. It is better to cut off excess wire than to screw on the missing pieces.
We attach the socket-boxes and switches to alabaster. It quickly and reliably sticks to the wall, so you need to cook it in small quantities.
We connect all sockets, lamps and switches to the machines and supply voltage. Then we check the performance of electrical appliances. If the tests are successful, you can seal the channels for the cable and proceed with the final finishing.

Sometimes experts suggest installing wiring under the floor. This method has several advantages: savings in wires, ease of maintenance, if the floor is wooden, you do not need to gouge the walls.

Laying exposed wiring

This quick way of how to replace or rewire electrical wiring has become popular thanks to the cable trunking itself. different sizes... Distinguish between wall and floor type "plinth". The amount is calculated according to our scheme, while leaving 5-10% of the length for allowance and trimming. For fastening, you will need self-tapping screws or liquid nails.

At the marked places, we cut off the cable channels with a construction knife or a hacksaw.
We fix the lower part of the channel to the wall using screws, dowels, nails - it all depends on the material of the walls.
We install the junction boxes in the same way, without embedding into the walls. In this case, the cable channels must be closely connected to the box with switches and sockets.
We put wires in them and close them with a lid. The line is ready.
We clean the contacts and connect all the accessories. Now you can make a test switch-on and check the performance of individual nodes.

There is another way of wiring - the so-called retro style. Most often, it was found in village houses and buildings built in the 20-30s of the last century. It consists in fastening the wires on ceramic insulators. For it, we need soft-braided copper wire and small roller insulators that are attached to the wall at regular intervals.

Replacing the electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties and may well be performed by a person without special knowledge and skills, the main thing is to observe safety precautions.

Do you want to change the wiring in the apartment with your own hands? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician permit, or an electrician diploma. It is enough to be an electrician in the shower, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you are missing practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself - this article is for you.

Calculations and scheme

Single-line diagram according to GOST

First you need to draw wiring diagram of your apartment... You don't need to be an engineer to do this, because you don't need a sophisticated linear circuit in accordance with GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing "by hand". The wiring diagram is needed in order to properly spread the cable around the apartment, and calculate its approximate amount, as well as determine the load on each future line.

Wiring diagram

Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, take into account what household appliances you will include in them, how many and what lamps you will use.

It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all the sockets in the line are through-type, then with each subsequent outlet there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many outlets on one loaded line, for example, in the kitchen, it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.

Define required amount lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bath sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.

Cable selection

In order for electrical appliances to work without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate section. And if, on one line (for example, to the kitchen), there are several consumers (and it will be so), then it is necessary to calculate their total capacity and leave safety margin of the cable, that is, select the desired section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: a 40W incandescent lamp, and a 6000W hob, etc.

In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule... - For socket lines, use a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm2, for all lighting 1.5 mm2, and for hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq. Mm - and everything will be fine with you!

Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in watts.

Simplified power formula

The cable must be three-core (phase, zero, earth). Zero is always blue, earth is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color... If you change the wiring, do not save on material - always take a cable with a third core (with grounding), because all modern appliances have an additional protective terminal, and the protective automatics work only with the use of grounding .

It is best to use a VVG-ng cable to replace the wiring. You can, of course, use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft must be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and it is flat, which allows making smaller strobes, and it is possible to push the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross section of 1.5mm)

Uncrimped wire with sleeve

Always take only a cable in accordance with GOST! For example, an excellent cable is Gostovsky VVG ng. This is a very important point in preparation for replacing the wiring! You can save money on automatics or sockets (you can always change them), but do not save on the cable - take a good one.

Markup

Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located, the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after repair is 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling.If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and put a mark every 7 cm (box size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.

For lovers of standards, so that it is "like everyone else" or "how they do" - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for kindergartens, kindergartens and schools where sockets and switches are installed at a height not lower than 160 cm.... Everything else, especially at your home, you can do as you like. For example, some make rosettes in the slopes of windows or even in the floor.

Preparing for chipping

Usually, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as cable routing under skirting boards or trunks.

Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a stretch or false ceiling, if they are not planned to be done, then the ceiling must be channeled. And since the monolith of the ceilings shading is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We highly do not recommend shaping the ceiling on your own, since you need to know the technology of correct shading so that later the whole house does not collapse.

In cases where ceiling plastering is not planned, experienced craftsmen find voids in the slab of the monolith with the old cable, and tighten a new one in its place.

With a concrete crown 70mm or 68mm (nozzle for a hammer drill), holes are drilled for socket outlets. A groove cutter or a grinder is used to cut the grooves for laying the cable. The grooves in the walls should be strictly vertical rather than horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the panel are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.

If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugation is allowed! There is also no need for a floor screed in corrugation, the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation in accordance with GOST! Save money on corrugation, if you do not have drywall or wood (or other flammable materials), then corrugation is not needed!

Noisy work

When you start hammering in the walls, do not forget about the law. Make noise with a puncher in apartment buildings it is possible only at a strictly defined time, each region of the Russian Federation has its own orders. For example, in Dagestan it is necessary to obtain permission from the elders, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they begin to hammer back. Better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.

Gutting

Before you start chasing, it is highly desirable that the walls and ceilings be plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of the sockets, since all sockets will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, chipping will be much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to cut a monolith.

Check in advance the places where you will chase, so as not to touch the communications - old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you cannot determine where the old wiring is going, call an electrician, or just turn it off in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For the convenience of work - make yourself a temporary carrier (extension cord).

The hole for the sockets is channeled to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in the concrete, mark a circle with a crown, after which any drill, no less than the depth of the crown, drill as many holes as possible around the circumference. After that, chipping with a crown will go much faster, you can say - it will go smoothly. When hitting the reinforcement, it is best to use another crown, in extreme cases, you can knock it down with a spatula. It is better to use a more powerful puncher (do not forget about the neighbors and the police).

Working with a wall chaser or grinder

Strobes for cable laying, go from the socket to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the strobe down so that the cable calmly lies in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these cases, but in extreme cases, you can do with a grinder, with a diamond disc on a stone. In the case of a grinder, take care of your health, put on a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to isolate dust from entering adjacent rooms.

Cabling

It is not difficult to lay the cable on the floor, it is enough to grab it to the floor in any way so that it does not float up when the screed is being made. Usually, the cable is laid along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall), so that later you know exactly where the cable goes.

It should be noted that laying the cable under doorways better not to do it! To lay the cable on the floor, it is better to do through holes between rooms. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damage to the cable when installing interior sills.

Laying the cable in the groove is also not particularly difficult. You can fix the cable in the strobe using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster ( stucco). Alabaster quickly hardens, so it is also convenient to use for mounting socket outlets. But before you smear the strobes with them, you must remove the dust from them and moisten them with water.

If the cable is securely fixed in the groove and does not protrude anywhere, the grooves can be covered with ordinary plaster mixture, this will save a lot of time.

About junction boxes

Soldering (or junction boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.

Today professional electricians will tell you that there is no need to install junction boxes in well-timed apartments! They can play a trick on your harness. In the event of a short circuit, otrania, neighbors flooded, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It is easy to refuse junction boxes - do all the switching in socket boxes! This requires DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Usually, deep sockets are made for light switches, but if switching is needed to branch out outlet lines, then deep sockets are also installed under the sockets.

Installation of an electrical panel

Most a budget option- this is the installation of all automatic circuit breakers on the staircase in the general board, where your old automatic machines and a counter are already located. To do this, it is necessary to bring all the cables into the driveway. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.

Built-in or overhead flap, it's up to you. Built-in looks more aesthetic, but it is easier to mount a consignment note. All lines from the apartment go to the shield, and already one thick cable goes from it to the driveway, the cross-section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example VVG 3 * 6.

Installation of circuit breakers

Each separate line has its own automatic protection device, with a rating depending on the cable cross-section. It is impossible to insert more than two lines into one machine according to the rules, if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.

Today, there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even on household level... Most necessary condition- this is the installation of overload and short-circuit protection circuit breakers (conventional single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (current leakage protection).

RCDs are best installed on the line of high-risk zones: wet rooms, children's rooms. There is no need to install one common RCD for the whole apartment! One common RCD is installed only with the aim of saving. The consequences of such savings are complex diagnostics of a fault in the event of a leak, + the whole apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, on lighting or street lines, an RCD is not installed.

Installation of additional types of protection is already a luxury: thermal relay (protection against cable heating), lightning protection, stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm etc.

Assembling the shield

One of the most crucial moments is the assembly of the shield. If you use a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be of any color except blue and yellow), all the rest (zero N blue color, ground PEN yellow-green) are plugged into their tires. When using RCDs or difavtomats (machine and RCD "in one bottle"), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marking N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers from wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.

For all connections in the switchboard, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate cross section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and zeros along the machines with a cable with a cross section of 4 sq.mm. or 6 sq.mm. Also, after tightening all cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fall into the clamp, or it is bad to hold on to it.

Final assembly. Sockets and switches

Sockets and switches are installed last, after a clean finish (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule good editing- this is a good contact!

Most of the sockets in your apartment are loop-through, that is, through them, the cable goes to each subsequent outlet with a loop. In order to avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap outlets (for example IEK), they have a very bad (to put it mildly) clamp and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And second, pull all connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging at it. If the wire jumped out of the clamp, it means that you did not clamp it well or the clamp turned out to be defective.

Among professionals, it is believed that the best clamps in sockets are possessed by the products of LeGrande, and Schneider.

To make the frames fit evenly and tightly, set the group of sockets or switches in level, joint to joint, and screw them to the socket boxes with small self-tapping screws from two opposite sides close to the wall. Then screw the spacers inside the socket (if any). It is important not to hit the wires inside the socket with spacers or self-tapping screws!

Trace the position of the cable in the socket box so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use screws that are too long to touch the wires.

At each stage of the repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finish.

Replacing electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands, as a rule, is timed to overhaul... And it is, perhaps, the most difficult part of it. Accordingly - and the price. In a regional city in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, a professional wiring replacement costs about 1000 rubles. per 1 square meter of total housing area. It is necessary to undertake an independent replacement of the wiring only if the repair is necessary, and you are constrained in funds.

Copper, earth and doses

Replacing electrical wiring in a residential building rests on three pillars:

Replacing aluminum wires with copper ones.
Transition from the power supply circuit TN – C (solidly grounded neutral) to TN – C – S (with protective earthing of consumers).
Transition from branching wires to connecting groups with separate branches.

Let's explain in order:

Due to its low cost and environmental friendliness (mining and smelting of copper were then extremely harmful industries), aluminum wiring became widespread in the world in the 30s and 60s. However, over time, it turned out that aluminum is unsuitable for electrical wires:

Over the course of 20 years, changes occur in circuits under current in the metal, the essence of which is still not completely clear; first of all - aluminum becomes very fragile, and you can't literally breathe on the wiring from it.
At the slightest ingress of moisture, aluminum is susceptible to electrocorrosion, spreading under the shell; the whole-looking wire turns out to be thinned to a hair; hence the sudden failures, the most emergency.

Aluminum is a soft metal. From under the terminal screws, it is squeezed out, the twists are weakened, and the soldering of aluminum is difficult, expensive and belongs to the number of hazardous industries. Therefore, aluminum contacts are unreliable.

Power transmission lines have a service life of less than 20 years, and aluminum defects do not affect there. But in apartment wiring, aluminum is now prohibited.

The Soviet TN-C power supply scheme was used involuntarily, due to the need for mass electrification with an acute shortage of non-ferrous metals and a long length of communications in a huge country. Since 1997, the Russian Federation has adopted the TN-C-S power supply system, which ensures the safety of consumers regardless of the state of the power grid. A lot of ungrounded high-rise buildings remained from the USSR, but since there is a problem, it must be solved; not "from above", so on their own.

The branching wiring scheme was also used involuntarily, and for the same reasons as the TN-C. At the same time, branches to the groups were connected to the more powerful wires of the apartment input along their length. Branches were made in junction boxes - electric dispensers (doses); the main apartment dose is located next to the counter.

Each branch is stripped and twisted or terminals: unreliable and sensitive to locking. Nowadays it has not yet been legalized (but the matter is coming), but branching is common: from the input to each group of connections there is a separate single piece of cable in double or triple insulation. No twists and terminals, it is not afraid of moisture.

Stages of work

Wiring costs can be cut in half or more. The fact is that the replacement of electrical wiring is carried out in five stages:

Development of a power supply scheme for an apartment (house).
Drawing up a wiring plan, its approval and registration together with the power supply scheme.
Construction of a temporary hut.
Laying of electrical wiring.
Installation of mechanisms (switches, automatic machines), connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical appliances (lighting fixtures, heated floors, washing machines, air conditioners, electric ovens, etc.).

Before starting work on replacing electrical wiring, protective grounding should be provided, if possible, or protective grounding... However, his device is.

Wiring by points is carried out at the last stage during the installation of mechanisms, automation, connection points and electrical appliances.

You can save money at each stage of wiring replacement. In general, you can reduce costs by half or more - up to 650-450 rubles / square, depending on what you can do on your own and what will have to be entrusted to specialists.

Power supply diagram

Take a look at the picture in the section. Just take a look for now. Let's give some explanations. Firstly: kWA - electricity meter; RCD is a residual current device. Secondly, the power supply circuit is single-line.

Notice the two slashes across the wire designation. This means that in real life there are two wires - phase L and zero N (neutral), laid together. The PE conductor is not crossed out, which means it goes separately. If the input is three-phase, then there will be three dashes on the designations of its wires. We do not touch on systems with isolated neutral, which are not used in everyday life.

Now examine the drawing carefully. This is a one-line power supply diagram for an elite apartment of 200 sq. m. If you generally understand everything in it, you can draw your own power supply scheme, even if you do not have an electrical engineering education and you cannot draw.

In the worst case, you end up with a lurid sketch. But according to it, an undergraduate student or a retired electrician who is looking for a part-time job will be able to draw the correct scheme in half an evening and inexpensively. And if you entrust the scheme to a practicing specialist with a decent salary, then it will cost a pretty penny. The trouble will not diminish you: after all, he needs the initial data.

We think over the power supply

The correct wiring in the house depends primarily on the power consumption. In cottage settlements, they give a consumption limit of 10-20 kW for housing, but in a city apartment this is unrealistic: either the machine will be knocked out at the entrance all the time, or, even worse, the house wiring will burn out. And in old houses, where replacement of the wiring is most often required, there is a “Khrushchev” limit of 1.3 kW; at the limit - 2 kW.

However, no one turns on everything at once. Even in the summer, when the air conditioners are on, they turn on off-beat. Here, randomness works for the consumer: with an average power consumption of 4.3 kW, house wiring holds. We lay this limit as the basis for the calculation. True, if in the summer you start washing or ironing, the air conditioner with the boiler will have to be turned off, otherwise the main machine will shut down the whole apartment. But this will have to be reconciled.

Without going into the details of the calculation, we will immediately give data for an average city apartment of 40-100 sq. m total area:

The main machine - from 25 to 32 A, depending on the area. For the meticulous: the current safety factor is 1.3-1.5. It is impossible to give 2 in apartment buildings: the general wiring is "stunted".
Apartment RCD - 50 A 30 μA imbalance.
Kitchen - two branches of wiring, 4 sq. mm; on each - a 25 A machine and a 30 A 30 μA RCD. Washing the bathroom - from the kitchen; not indicated on the diagram, see below.
Air conditioner - 2.5 sq. Mm branch; automatic machine - 16 A, RCD - 20 A 30 μA.
Socket chains and lighting chains - one and the other in each room, except for the bathroom and toilet; there is only lighting in them; the conversation about the bathroom is yet to come. The cross-section of the products is 2.5 sq. Mm; automatic shutdown is not needed, apartment-wide is enough.

That's all the source codes for a single-line power supply diagram for an apartment. You can draw.

Figure: graphic diagrams for "clarity":

We draw a diagram

As a basis, you can take the diagram given. Its top, from the exit from the counter, remains unchanged, you only need to change the numerical data. The brand of the RCD does not matter: if you end up replacing the ASTRO-RCD with others, this does not violate anything.

In case of doubt about the designations, see the Appendix to the PUE (Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations of Consumers) or GOST 2.755-87(CT SEV 5720-86). Just keep an eye on the GOST number: for some reason, a lot of references to GOST 2.721-74 and even GOST 7624-55 pop up in the search, from which now there is no more sense than from the Moral Code of the Builder of Communism, at one time personally edited by a dear comrade and unforgettable General Secretary Leonid Ilyich.

When drawing the diagram, observe the dimensions of the legend of the elements: they cannot be scaled. If, for example, an electric capacitor is indicated by two parallel lines 0.5 mm thick and 10 mm long at a distance of 2 mm from one another, then so be it, even if it is alone on a sheet of Whatman paper A0.

Preparing a plan

Now consider the figure that accompanies this section. This is already a PLAN of the wiring: this is what the circuit turns into when you need to do it by hand. Let's give explanations to the plan:

At least two branches should go to each room from the meter - on the lighting circuits and sockets.
Since there is one bathroom in an ordinary apartment, the DSU (system additional equalization potentials) is not needed. Its branch in the diagram is indicated by a dotted line.
In the bathroom, label only the waterproof ceiling lamp and the boiler, if installed there. The bathroom is a special and complex case, and it will be discussed later.
Mark only branches to connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical installations. Stationary installations are considered to be rigidly fixed on supporting structures, or not supplied through a plug connection. For example: the boiler and underfloor heating are stationary, but the washer, dishwasher and electric oven are not. The fact that they are connected to other utilities does not concern the electricians and do not care.
Don't clutter up the diagram with little things like LED backlight ceiling, extension cable to the balcony, etc. Inspectors are only annoyed by such things, and a perfectly decent plan can be “hacked”.
Do not under any circumstances show the branches to the balcony or loggia! For a city apartment, this is a gross violation of the PUE. These rooms must be powered from outlets in other rooms.

Now let's show you how to simplify the preparation of the plan:

Take a plan of your apartment in DEZ or BTI.
Scan; if large - in pieces.
In Photoshop, glue the pieces together, and remove the old designations of wiring, stationary electrical appliances and connection points.
Apply new ones according to the diagram and according to the example of the given wiring plan. It is more convenient to do this no longer in Photoshop, but in CorelDraw or another vector graphics editor by importing the original raster file and then exporting ready plan back to the raster. Don't forget to save the vector stock! Plans made by amateurs in almost 100% of cases are returned for revision with comments.
In Photoshop, divide a large image at the desired scale into pieces the size of the printable area of your printer, print and glue into a large sheet so that the lines match. If they disperse a little, you can finish it by hand.

Notes:

If the bathroom is located far from the kitchen (as, for example, in Czech-style apartments), then the group of outlets provided for it, described below in the section on the kitchen, should be placed in an adjacent bathroom.

It is desirable to arrange groups of outlets in adjacent rooms exactly opposite one another through the wall. In this case, having drilled the wall, you can feed both groups with one branch, saving the cable and pipe.

In apartments-"trams" (enfilade layout) in the room farthest from the meter, a group of outlets, but no more than two, it is permissible (in practice, not according to the PUE) to be powered sequentially, one from the other. In this case, if the neighboring group is powered through the wall from the living room, another half of the branch is saved.

Sconces and other local light are also in practice permissible to be powered from sockets or sequentially within the room, if there is also a ceiling lamp in it.

Ceiling lights must be powered by a separate branch. It is unacceptable to power them through each other or from sockets: general lighting circuits are considered vital.

The rows are counted and indicated on the plan as a chandelier. The branch for them is brought out to the center of the ceiling, and the wiring during installation is made as safer and more convenient.

The finished power supply diagram and wiring plan in the apartment must be registered and approved by the energy service. The verification and registration procedure is free of charge.

Important: the wiring plan should be given the utmost attention. An optimally well-made plan, compared to a hack-work, saves costs by half or more.

Electrical equipment of rooms

To draw up a power plan with knowledge of the matter, you must first of all decide how many and which connection points and stationary consumers will be in the house. Of course, in your house you are the owner, and it is impossible to develop a unified methodology for drawing up a plan for any layout options. But the following guidelines may come in handy.

Bathroom

Bathroom electrical equipment is a tough nut to crack. On the one hand, only high humidity makes the bathroom room especially dangerous in terms of the degree of electric shock. Plus to this - a splattered floor and a naked man steamed in hot water. The resistance of his body falls more than that of a drunk drunk: the current of a circuit through the body can exceed 5 A (!), And this is between an unconditionally fatal blow and charring. The damaging effect of the electric current depends on the time of exposure, and with such a force, the response time of the RCD is in no way enough to surely prevent trouble.

On the other hand, there are powerful electrical installations: Washer, boiler, with a large intrinsic leakage current, operating at elevated temperature and humidity. Under such conditions, bare, energized contacts, albeit under the outlet cover, will be a source of danger of electric shock.

PUE allow the installation of sockets in the bathroom through an isolating transformer or an RCD, but this decision is even more compelled than the TN-C system at one time. It has already been said about the RCD, and as for the isolation transformer, this point is simply copied from the section on industrial electrical equipment for lack of a better one.

Installation of an isolation transformer is a technically complex task and is the subject of a separate description. Recommendations like - shove RTR under suspended ceiling in the bathroom - the fruit, if not ignorance, then the latent desire for perverted electrosuicide. According to the letter PTB and PUE, there can be only a waterproof ceiling lamp in the bathroom. But in the spirit and essence of the same PTB and PUE, the power supply to the bathroom can be organized as follows:

Replace the electrical cords of the boiler and fan with long ones, so that they are enough, through the hole in the wall, to the sockets in the kitchen or in the room adjacent to the bathroom. The boiler is not supplied with a standard cord, and the loss of warranty for an inexpensive fan is not a big problem, especially since almost 100% of the warranty return of fans is reduced to non-warranty cases. Of course - the cords are three-core, with a protective conductor.
Purchase an extension cord without a cord, but with grounding contacts (euro), for three sockets, with shaped holes in the back for hanging on the wall, and supply it with a three-core cord too.
Lead all three cords through the hole in the wall in the corner above the plinth into the kitchen or an adjacent room, supply them with Euro plugs, and put them in a PVC box: in the corner and at the bottom, it will not be conspicuous.
The boiler plug is plugged into the outlet "permanently" - nowhere in any rules is there a time limit for plugging the plug into the outlet. Also the fan plug, if it is "intelligent" and is triggered by temperature and humidity.
The extension cord is suspended in the bathroom on self-tapping screws in dowels.
The washing machine is connected to the extension cord permanently. The other two slots can be used to include the light frame of the mirror and the hairdryer.
The extension cord plug is plugged into an outlet in an adjacent room as needed.

Thus, in the bathroom there will be no exposed ends under voltage constantly, and if elementary precautions are taken, the risk of electric shock will be reduced to zero. And according to PUE and PTB, an extension cord, even with a cord in a box and hung on the wall, is just an extension cord, not an outlet.

Toilet

In the toilet, as in the bathroom, only one lighting branch for the ceiling lamp will go. Toilet and bathroom lamps can be powered sequentially on one branch: electricians do not find fault.

Kitchen

For the kitchen, therefore, you will need two branches of the wiring: for the bathroom and for your own needs. If the bathroom is removed from the kitchen, then the branch for the bathroom will go to the adjacent room, but we will describe it here.

The wire cross-section is 4 sq. Mm and the protective automatics for both branches are the same and are described above. But the connection points are different: for your own branch of the kitchen you need not one, as for a bathroom, but two triple sockets. A dishwasher, an electric oven, food processor and spot lighting. Powering the halogens on the underside of the hanging cabinet with a separate branch, as is sometimes recommended, is uneconomical and incorrect according to the PUE.

One of the remaining points will go under the kitchen fan, and in the other, an extension cord is constantly turned on, suspended, like in a bathroom, on a wall or on a cabinet. You can turn on a toaster, a vacuum cleaner when cleaning, etc. The refrigerator is plugged into an additional group socket on the opposite wall.

It is advisable to place the sockets of the bathroom and the main group behind the lower kitchen cabinet close to the countertop, but away from the sink. If the bottom cabinet with back wall, cut an opening in it. For the passage of the cords, cut the rear corners of the tabletops - and it is not visible, and the cords pass freely.

The lighting branch to the kitchen is the same as elsewhere.

Hallway and corridor

Two branches are needed here: for the outlet and for the light. If the corridor is long, and two lighting points are needed in it, then the one closest to the outlet is made in the form of a sconce and is powered from it. And the far point will already be a ceiling lamp powered by its branch.

Children

PUE requires for children's institutions the location of sockets and switches at a height of at least 180 cm from the floor. But this only applies to institutions, and the child will grow up, and the room will remain with him.

If the child, loved from a tender age, shows an increased interest in technology, the socket in the nursery must be installed with a protective disk. From an outlet with a lockable lid, a small individual can puff up and suppress tendencies in himself, which, possibly, will become the key to success in life in the future.

Living rooms

Without going into the intricacies of topology, let's say right away: for powering ceiling lamps and two groups of outlets in living rooms 2N + 1 branches are enough, where N is the number of rooms. Let us explain using the example of a three-room apartment:

Living room - 1 branch of the main outlet group, 1 - additional, 1 - lighting.
Bedroom - 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. An additional group is powered through the wall from an additional group of the living room.
Children's - 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. An additional group is powered through the wall from an additional bedroom group.
From the bedroom or nursery, depending on the layout, it is powered through the wall additional group kitchens.

Just 2-3 room apartment you will need 12-15 branches, including air conditioner. The branch for the air conditioner must end with an outlet, although it is a stationary device. For two reasons: for safety and ease of maintenance, and because the split is equipped with a standard molded cord, cutting off which we lose the warranty.

How high will the sockets be?

The optimum height of the sockets is 25-35 cm from the floor. It is quite convenient to reach for them, they do not rush into the eyes, they do not interfere with furniture. An exception is the air conditioner socket. It is placed higher so that its cord reaches out and does not dangle in plain sight. Excess cord can be rolled up and pushed onto the wall unit from above; the height of the placement of the sockets is nowhere and is not regulated in any way.

Do not try to oversize yourself - this will only reduce the reliability of the wiring. Two groups, one double in each, are sufficient. As a last resort - a triple socket is placed in one seat, but this cannot be built-in.

Tools and materials

You will need the following wiring replacement tool:

A hammer drill with a drill for concrete 16-20 mm, a core drill 90-100 mm, a chisel for concrete 25-30 mm and a set of drills, also for concrete.
Grinder with a stone circle.
Soldering iron 40-60 W.
Phase indicator.
Tester multimeter.
Pliers, screwdrivers and side cutters with insulated handles.
Lantern.
Assembly knife.
Building level and cord for striking the strobe route.
Alabaster putty knife.
Portable light bulb.

The materials should be discussed separately.

Terminal blocks

The described method of replacing the electrical wiring excludes its twists and adhesions along the length, and the wiring is absolutely resistant to locking. All connections will be made in the lead-in box (VSC) at the terminal blocks and at the end points. The terminal blocks are sold in sections of 10 contacts (5 pairs). You will need 3-4 sections; it's better to take three at once, and it's never too late to buy.

When buying, pay attention to the body material - polyethylene is bad, any other will do. And most importantly, two wires with a diameter of 2.5 mm should go into the holes for the wires. It is better to immediately take terminal blocks with rectangular holes, in which the wires are not clamped directly with a screw, but with a special plate.

Socket boxes

Mounting boxes for sockets and switches (socket outlets) can be any, but it is imperative that they have protrusions on the outside so that they are kept in alabaster.

Cable brand

The "cool" and expensive NYM cable is not that cool at all: according to the manufacturer's specifications, it cannot be laid in damp concrete (and where is the guarantee that the walls will always be dry?) And on the street. Therefore, the choice is domestic cables VVG or PUNP. The first is more expensive, but its insulation is more reliable. But there are no complaints about the apartment wiring laid by the PUNP.

All of these cables are with single-core wires, and this is one of the ways to save money when replacing the wiring: multi-core cables are much more expensive, and in the wall they are unreliable. If the wiring will be done by hired workers, then they will remember you to themselves: the cables are tough, especially the PUNP. But it doesn't suit you. And if you are not touchy and not devoid of a sense of humor, then you can listen: good electricians swear masterly, no worse than aircraft mechanics.

Video: a little about the types of cable

Old pipe or new corrugation?

It is better to rip out old cable pipes together with wires without any pity: the gaps of the pipes are not designed for double-insulated cable, they are often clogged, the bends are flattened and wrinkled. It is better to hand them over and the old wires after replacing them with scrap metal: at the current prices for recycled metal, this will pay off, in part or in full, the costs of a corrugated hose for cables.

It is better to take metal corrugation: in the event of an accident, PVC, decomposing in the wall without air access, will release poisonous gases. And by grounding the metal corrugated board, you will also get shielded wiring, which has a lot of advantages and not a single disadvantage.

Opening Shield

The VS will be located at the site of the old dose. You need to take it suitable size: it will have to fit 4 machines, 4 RCDs, 4 terminal blocks and all the ends of the wires. The ends of all corrugated hoses will have to enter the assembly openings of the VSC.

Of other materials, you will need cotton tape (cloth), a little conductive paste and alabaster.

Let's start replacing

Repair shelter

First of all, you need to provide power to the tool during the repair. To do this, in advance on a board or piece durable plastic attach a double or triple socket and a 16 A machine with a piece of cable 4 sq. mm. We also stock up on a long, so that there is enough in all rooms, an extension cord.

Then we de-energize the apartment by unscrewing the plugs or turning off the apartment machine, manually chisel the dose near the meter, remove it and bring out the wires from the meter. We connect the temporary hut to them on a tight twist (twisting for the duration of the repair is permissible), carefully isolate the joints, and attach the temporary hut to the wall. We supply the apartment and get to work.

Note: for this work, it is better to hire a DEZ electrician, or work extremely carefully - do not touch the wires with parts of the body and clothing, hold the tool only by the insulated parts not below the restrictive protrusion. And it is highly desirable to first familiarize yourself with the PTB and PUE. Remember: voltage can appear on a de-energized wire at any time! Those electricians who could not or did not want to understand this are no longer with us.

Strobing and socket boxes

The strobes must be straight, horizontal or vertical. Inclined and curved grooves lead to accidents and injuries. Horizontal grooves lead half a meter under the ceiling.

It is necessary to groove and drill the walls from a goat or from a step-ladder with side stops, which are used by outdoor advertisers. A normal stepladder can tip over due to lateral force, and you crash down with a heavy, rapidly rotating tool in your hands.

The boundaries of the groove are first drawn with a grinder to a depth of the corrugation diameter and to the width of the perforator bit, then a groove is knocked out with a chisel. Inside the corners, an oblique cut is made with a grinder, and a hole is knocked out with a chisel so that the bend of the corrugation is smooth.

Socket holes in brick walls choose a crown; in concrete - with a chisel. The crown, hitting the reinforcing bar, immediately crumbles, and is not cheap. The recess under the VShch at the counter is also knocked out with a chisel.

Note: do not choose a double strobe under the switches. It is much easier to buy a corrugation, which will include two cables.

Strobing is a very noisy, dusty and dirty job. Therefore, its time must be coordinated with neighbors. Best of all - in the first half of a weekday, when adults are at work, and mothers with young children are walking.

Wiring

We measure the required pieces of cable and corrugation. We tighten the corrugated cable on the floor. Then we put socket boxes in the holes on an alabaster cushion. Then we put the corrugation to the cable in the grooves; we put the ends of the wires into the socket boxes. Finally, we finish the socket boxes with alabaster to the level of the wall, and grease the grooves with gofor with pieces after about half a meter.

Note: if the switches are single-pole, then the ends of the zero (blue wire) are immediately twisted, soldered and insulated with three layers of insulating tape with the lower layer overlap on the wire by 15-20 mm and overlap of layers by 50%.

At the end of the laying of the wires, we put the input ends of the corrugations in the VSC, lubricate with a conductive paste, grab it with a tin clamp on the screw, and connect the screw with a piece of PE wire to the VSC grounding terminal. We put the VSC in place, mark the mounting holes, drill them, drive in the dowels.

We de-energize the apartment, turn off the temporary hut. By weight, we enter the wires from the meter and the apartment PE into the VSC; we connect PE to the VShch case. We put the VSC in place, fix it. We carefully insulate the wires from the meter, put them in the VSC case. It's time to plaster; the apartment is de-energized.

About wire colors

Zero (neutral, N) is always indicated blue or blue color, protective conductor PE - yellow with longitudinal green strip. Phase wires can be white, red , black, brown... Only single-color wires can be connected to each other. Phase-to-zero transition, phase-to-phase, and switching on of the circuit breaker in a zero break are unacceptable.

Plaster interlude

Now the time has come for plasterers, painters and wallpaper gluers. Or yours, in a new incarnation. But first you need to stuff foam rubber, paper or rags flush with the wall into the socket boxes, and close the VSC with a piece of plastic film, tucking it under the edges of its frame. We also cover the meter with a film, but make sure not to break the seal - then you will not end up with the hassle with the energy service. If the seal is still damaged, you must immediately inform the power engineers.

Completion

After plastering and painting and wallpapering, the socket boxes and VSH will be worn out and glued, but it will be easy to find them and cut the wallpaper along the contour. Having cleaned the remnants of plaster, switches, lamps, from the socket boxes.

Note: in sockets, it is customary to connect wires so that zero is closer to the window.

Then, on the terminal blocks in the switchboard, we assemble the power supply circuit, but we do not connect the input from the meter yet. EACH BRANCH SHOULD BE CHECKED FOR A SHORT CIRCUIT BEFORE PUTTING INTO THE TERMINAL BOARD! Now we power the apartment for a short time, find the phase and zero indicator coming from the meter with the indicator.

We remove the power, separate the phase and zero with wire segments of the corresponding colors across the terminal blocks. ONCE AGAIN WE CHECK FOR SC when the machines are on, turn off the main machine, power up the apartment, turn on the main machine. Not "banged"? We check the light, voltage in the sockets and continue the repair.

Can you do without papers?

As you can see, a good portion of the work on replacing electrical wiring falls on paper cases. But any handy man feels not always justified, but a persistent aversion to paperwork. So is it possible to do without papers?

No. Electricians have a trained eye. The very first control of the meter readings - and your own will be reported, and then wait for the visit of the inspector. Its result is a large fine and legalization of work in fact, which is not at all cheaper.

Replacing the wiring in a wooden house

Wiring in a wooden house is a separate topic. It can only be noted that the recommendations to lay corrugation with cable directly along the walls are completely untenable: open wiring has long been banned all over the world.

What can you advise if the house is old and there are no cable channels? Cover the cable hoses wooden boxes... Whether it will be a decorative imitation of beams and ribs, or a simple plank in the corner is your business, but it will pass with a certain creak for power engineers.

We can: change the old wiring for a new one, at any facility and in any volume; lay down the whole electrician and low current; partially change the wiring in one room; completely assemble or sort out the electrical panel. The work carried out by us complies with all building codes and safety rules. The peculiarities of each object and the individual wishes of the customer are taken into account. We successfully coordinate all our activities with architects, designers and builders. Knowing all the specifics of finishing the premises on a turnkey basis, we comply with all time regulations, and we always hand over all objects on time. Check out our reviews.

How do you know when it's time to change the wiring?

The first sign that something is wrong with the electrical wiring is if you periodically shocks... The second sign is the frequent or arbitrary actuation of automatic machines or burnout of plugs (the presence of plugs is already a diagnosis!) And the third sign is the smells of burning, crackling and blinking of light.

See what an unusable old wiring looks like, and how dangerous it is.

The cost of electrical wiring

1 room

from 9,000 rubles

2 rooms

from 14,000 rubles

3 rooms

from 18,000 rubles

Lowest cost of wiring replacement including material! Without shtroblenie, without shield, cable in boxes or under the skirting board)

The cost of wiring with material!

1x room

from 12,000 rubles

2 rooms

from 18,000 rubles

3 rooms

from 22,000 rubles

Minimum cost including material! At the rate of 2-3 sockets and 1 light source per room, a shield in the apartment.

Materials required for a 1-room apartment

Circuit breakers 3-5 pcs and RCD Built-in panel for 8-12 modules	VVG cable ng 2.5 * 3 = 50 m VVG cable ng 1.5 * 3 = 100 m	Soldering boxes

Sockets and switches 25 pcs	Building gypsum 10 kg

Design

At the first arrival of the master (full-time engineer) at the facility, all the details are discussed and an estimate is drawn up. After receiving an advance payment (an advance payment is necessary for the purchase of material and usually does not exceed 50% of the cost of work, it is also possible to start), a project is drawn up and drawn wiring diagram.

A wiring diagram is included with every project and is free of charge.

Cable laying

After the conclusion of the contract, the team of electricians starts laying the cable. If necessary, the old floors are opened and the ceilings (not the main walls) are broken.

It is worth recalling that the team of site craftsmen is, first of all, professional electricians with professional tools! And we are doing Electricity ONLY and weak, and we do not undertake anything else. We don’t make plumbing, we don’t level the walls, we don’t put tiles and we don’t install windows! Our team, we have been dealing only with electricity and wiring for many years!

All related services: removal of garbage, opening of floors, dismantling of ceilings, etc., - paid separately... The service for replacing the wiring includes only such work as: purchasing materials, work on replacing wiring, commissioning and cleaning after work.

All noisy work: chiselling, chiselling, drilling, - are carried out only at the time established by law, for each region it has its own time. It is allowed to make noise in Moscow from 9.00 to 19.00, with a break from 13.00 to 15.00... On weekends and holidays, only low-noise works are performed.

After laying all the electrics, including low-current cables: audio, video, internet. Installation of socket outlets and junction boxes (if absolutely necessary). The bookmark of the socket boxes is agreed with the customer or the finishers. it is more convenient and best of all to do it after a rough finish (for example, plastering walls)

Installation and assembly of the shield

The installation of the panel can be postponed to any time interval during the replacement of the wiring. It is best to install the panel after a rough finish (for example, plastering walls). The panel is assembled at any time, but before the installation of sockets and switches, for the convenience of commissioning.

The assembly of the shield is qualified electrician with a permit... For the panel room, we use only high-quality certified materials (automatic machines, RCDs, diff-automatic devices, voltage control relays, switches, counters). At the request of the customer, cheaper domestic counterparts can also be used. Also, for an additional fee, it is possible to connect a voltage stabilizer to the switchboard (the stabilizer requires additional space next to the switchboard).

Installation of sockets and switches

Installation of all wiring accessories is carried out only for finishing. That is, after painting, wallpapering, laying tiles, etc. If necessary, temporary sockets and switches are installed.

In damp rooms, special waterproof sockets are installed. In children's rooms (or throughout the apartment) - sockets with internal curtains.

The installation of switches is combined with the installation of temporary light sources (Ilyich's bulbs) to check the stability of the entire system.

Switches are selected depending on the wishes of the customer or project. Since there are various modifications of switches: checkpoints, on a string, backlit, dimmers, radio switches, proximity switches, etc.

All LED strips, transformers and installations using diodes are also mounted on a fine finish.

Partial wiring replacement

Partial replacement of the wiring in the apartment will cost significantly less than replacing the entire wiring (is it logical, isn't it?). Such a procedure will save on large-scale repairs and will keep the apartment electrician in good condition.

Easy improvement of wiring in one room in the first place will reduce the load on the rest of the apartment, and secondly, it will make it possible to make partial repairs in the apartment. This is most suitable for residents of Khrushchevkas, communal apartments, hostels and Stalinist houses. And also for several families living in the same living space. If it is not possible to replace all the wiring, first of all you need to think about partial replacement.

Work priorities to improve the condition of existing or emergency wiring:

Installation of RCD
Laying separate lines from the shield
Bulkhead junction boxes
Replacing sockets and switches
Replacement of lighting devices and lamps

How much does a partial replacement cost?

Some companies or private craftsmen take the number of points as a basis. (For example, 500 rubles point). Let's explain why this is wrong. There can be 10 points, but there can be 2 times more lines laid to them (pass-through switches, lines for individual devices, etc.). Therefore, an accurate miscalculation and understanding of what these points are always necessary. You can simply replace the plugs with automatic machines, and in some situation this will be enough. You can change the cable with sockets in the room, or install an RCD. In any case, any of the listed actions improves fire safety and the safety of the wiring as a whole.

Prices for our services

site offers 2 options for work:

Low-current system

Everyone knows that when laying a rough electrical, it is also necessary to think over and lay all the accompanying low-current cables in advance.

Exists various lax systems and to the wiring in the apartment, they have nothing to do, since the wiring in will work without them. BUT, today, without some of them (and this is at least the Internet), it is impossible to understand modern and comfortable housing.

The main low-current systems in order of demand for them:

Internet
TV, telephone
Fire alarm
ACS systems (remote access)

Terms of execution, guarantee

The duration of the replacement work depends on a number of factors. Usually all works are subdivided into rough BEFORE, and finishing AFTER... In such cases, the timing of the work directly depends on other craftsmen (plasterers and painters) doing repairs indoors.

Rough laying of communications, this is an average of 1 day / room, installation of sockets and switches for finishing, this is an average of 1-3 days for the whole apartment, as well as the assembly of the panel room can take 1-2 days.

All terms of performance of work, as well as guarantee and payment are prescribed in treaty... Prepayment is required only for materials; it is also possible to stage-by-stage division of prepayment according to the stages of work performed.

Warranty for all turnkey electrics (service and warranty repair) from 5 years, the warranty period directly depends on the stages of the work (turnkey or partially) and the materials used.