So that the fortification wall does not fall. Reinforcement of load-bearing structures when cutting openings. Sealing large cracks

Rarely enough, and yet there are situations when it is required to additionally strengthen the supporting structure, for example, if initially there were mistakes in the design or during the construction of the building. A wall or floor can be reinforced in several ways. One of them is external reinforcement based on the use of composite materials with the participation of high-strength carbon or fiberglass materials fixed epoxy resins... However, this option is not suitable for strengthening in household and residential buildings and is more suitable for industrial facilities.

The second option is to amplify with metal structures... To strengthen the wall, a screed with metal corners, channels and I-beams is used. An option is possible when the channel simply goes deep into the wall along the perimeter and is welded into a one-piece frame, which takes over part of the load. When it comes to the building as a whole, then a solid belt of metal structures is formed, which pulls together the external load-bearing walls. All reinforcement elements are fixed to the wall and adjacent structures using embedded elements, such as fittings or long studs embedded in the wall. The gap between the wall and the reinforcement must be filled with concrete, and the metal itself is covered with a protective primer.

Strengthening load-bearing structures when cutting openings

If it is necessary to cut an opening in the supporting structure, proper reinforcement of the opening is mandatory and strictly ensured so that the reliability of the wall does not suffer. Strengthening in this case is performed around the perimeter of the future opening and even before it breaks through. As with conventional reinforcement, corners, channels and I-beams are used. Most often, channels are used, which can accommodate the entire thickness of the wall in their inner part. Channel bars are laid in the prepared slots in the wall, first the upper and lower cross member and after the support. All parts are welded and fastened with studs to the wall. After all this is done, you can begin to release the material inside the opening. As soon as the opening is ready, the channel is additionally reinforced with studs and reinforcement, which is mounted deeply along all directions of the wall. For reliability, all voids are filled with concrete, and the metal is covered with a primer.

If the wall thickness is more than half a meter, use two structures on both sides of the wall, built into it. After punching the opening, the reinforcements are additionally pulled together with corners, stripes or hairpins.

It is important to remember that there is no standard plan for strengthening load-bearing walls or openings. In each individual case, it is necessary to contact the design organizations so that, after examining the situation in detail, they can accurately calculate the quantity and quality of materials for strengthening. The method of reinforcement and strengthening itself is also determined. In no case should you yourself be engaged in strengthening the supporting structures, because it is easy to make a mistake or build insufficient reinforcement, after which the chance of collapse of not only the walls, but also the entire building increases critically.

Sooner or later, and this is a problem individual homeowners have to face. There are several methods for solving it, but many of them are difficult to implement for self-conduct works. This is due to the complexity of the technology, and the need to use various technical means, and with the presence of certain experience in this area. In most cases, such activities can only be carried out by employees of specialized organizations that have everything necessary to carry them out.

Therefore, we will consider only the simplest options for strengthening the foundation, in which all operations can be performed independently. Especially considering that, as a rule, there are no people among the owners of old houses who are knowledgeable in this matter. After all, this type of work has to be done extremely rarely, only a few. Since in most cases, individual developers prefer to equip for their home, then we will focus on it.

Strengthening the tape is carried out in stages. In case of partial repair, a section with a length of up to 3 m is selected, and only after its full readiness, work is performed on the next one.
If there is an uneven subsidence of the structure (skew), then you should start from the side of the maximum "sagging" wall.

Features of this method

Work is carried out sequentially on each side of the building. It is impossible to expose the entire perimeter at once, as the house can "go".
The base walls are reinforced in a criss-cross pattern. First on one side, then on the opposite.

Installation of ebbs

This method is somewhat more complicated, but the effectiveness of such strengthening is quite high. What it consists of is easy to understand from the picture. Although, one cannot do without the help of special equipment (devices).

Arrangement of the "shirt"

It can be either concrete or ordinary brickwork.

Installation of piles

This technique is somewhat simpler, since reinforced concrete slabs are not used.

And in conclusion, let us dwell on such a question - is it always necessary to deal with such a troublesome and costly thing as strengthening the foundation when a gap appears? To understand this, there is a fairly simple way. When a crack appears, it is covered with a thin layer of mortar (based on cement or gypsum). You can also stick a paper strip on top. If after a while such "control" breaks, then you will have to make major repairs to the base, as this indicates that the process of destruction continues. In other cases, as a rule, it is enough to seal the gap with a solution -.

Finally, consider the reasons for the appearance of foundation defects:

Changing the configuration of underground water formations

This phenomenon is very common and is due to various factors... For example, large-scale construction, deployed nearby, the laying of a highway (pipe or automobile) in the immediate vicinity of the house, and a number of others.

In this case, it is imperative to tackle the issue of arranging drains (if they do not exist) and reconstruction, improvement of existing ones. The task is clear - to divert excess fluid from the foundation.

Ground displacement

This happens, as a rule, when the technology of construction and repair work carried out near the building is violated. For example, the laying of utility lines.

Violation of the rules for the operation of the structure

Excessive loading of supporting structures, installation of units with elevated level vibration and the like.

Design errors and violations during the construction phase. This is often encountered by homeowners who have already bought finished house.

Knowing the reason, firstly, will allow you to correctly navigate in the choice of methodology (how and how to strengthen the foundation), and secondly, it will make it possible to either completely eliminate them, or minimize the influence of a negative factor on the foundation.

Summing up, it should be pointed out that if the foundation is strengthened not due to the elimination of the identified defect, but for carrying out any work on further reconstruction of the building, then work can be started only after the filled mass has completely hardened. The time of its readiness depends on many factors - the brand of cement, the type of aggregate, the temperature outside and a number of others.

DIY crafts. Beading. Screed brick house. 3 years, 1 month back # 1365. Alenka.
Content
Method 1: frame (monolithic) reinforcement
Method 2: wire mesh reinforcement

Method 4: using additives in solution

General Tips
During the construction of a house or major repairs, most are faced with the question of the need to reinforce the screed during its formation. Someone decides to save money and is content with just a concrete screed, while someone reinforces all surfaces to give ultimate strength, so to speak "for centuries". It is worth understanding the need to use floor screed reinforcement and the ways in which you can do your own reinforcement.
The construction of the screed differs into several types depending on the intended purpose and the place of its formation. So, there may be the following options for screeds:
Rough screed on the ground or base plate;
Floor screed on floor slabs;
Leveling screed, self-leveling floor;
Screed with a layer of sound and heat insulation;
It makes sense to reinforce the floor screed in cases where a rough screed is formed and when creating a multi-layer screed with thermal insulation. In these cases, it is necessary for the reason that the screed is not performed on a monolithic and fixed base and is subjected to tensile and bending forces. Also, reinforcement can be performed in order to save concrete, if it is required, according to calculations, to form a too thick layer of concrete.
Reinforcement of the screed can be done in several ways. You can choose the right one based on design and operational requirements and only after the calculation of the reinforcement has been made. It is quite difficult to carry out independent calculations based on the requirements of SNiP and GOSTs, and you can miss a lot of nuances and features, so it is better to contact the design organization for this.
Now let's consider the materials and structures that can be used to reinforce floors:
reinforcement frame;
wire mesh;
welded mesh with a mesh of 5-20 cm;
polymer mesh, fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
fiber additions to the solution.
In any case, the reinforcement technology is performed according to a certain construction scheme.
Any reinforcing material must be distributed in the thickness of the mortar used for the screed. To do this, it is distributed over the surface strictly before pouring on special props (does not apply only to additives in the solution in the form of fiberglass).
Screed with your hands with your walls of the house with fittings. KattyMorton yulka_shh Shusyik: D the thermometer wants you to go to school tomorrow LeraKirichenko3 I hope not for long so that I can contact you in February Another round of negotiations within the framework
The composition and structure of the reinforcement should not interfere with the distribution of the mortar under its layer.
The reinforcement material must have good adhesion to the mortar. To do this, do not allow it to be contaminated with oily substances or open it with paint or other substances.
The reinforcement must be completely sunk into the mortar layer to prevent corrosion, decay, oxidation by moisture or air.
Read: Properties of aerated concrete
The formation of frame reinforcement is advisable only in cases where the base of the house, that is, the foundation and the floor screed, are an integral system for holding the building. Also in cases where it is justified by calculations and the need in view of the unreliability of the supporting soils. In this case, reinforced concrete structures are formed with a total thickness of at least 10 cm and a reinforcing frame height of at least 5 cm.Method 1: frame (monolithic) reinforcement
You can build a reinforcing frame right on the spot, using reinforcement for this. In construction, rebar sizes from 6 to 40 mm are used, depending on the design requirements and the required strength. In private construction, reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm and 20 mm is most often used.
You can "knit" the frame from the reinforcement using steel wire 2-3 mm. At the same time, a base mesh is formed with a cell of the required size within 10-20 cm and everything is connected with the installation of lifting ribs. On the ribs upper layer reinforcing frame in the form of the same mesh as on the bottom layer. It is best to use solid pieces of reinforcement in length and width. If you want to use trims and less long pieces, then the reinforcement is extended overlapping with at least half a meter overlapping each other. Next, the screed is poured. This option is also called monolithic reinforcement, because the result is actually one-piece and unbreakable reinforced concrete slab... Video: knitting reinforcement mesh
Rebar clamps can serve as an alternative to knitting or welding
Welding is often used to form a reinforcing frame. For independent work, this option is suitable only for those who have available welding machine and enough skills to weld fine rods and wires. By the way, in industrial construction, only professional welders who have already established themselves are allowed to such work, because this type of work requires attention and accuracy. If the welding technology is violated, the reinforcement and wire are often thinned at the joints, which negates all the benefits of the frame.
how to pull the house with 7na8 fittings and the price. Petya. The annex is brick. The house is 50 years old. It is necessary to strengthen the house with a reinforced screed due to the appearance of cracks.
Read: Ideas for alteration, repair and operation of the "Khrushchev refrigerator" with your own hands Video: forming a mesh for reinforcement by welding
During the reinforcement of a concrete floor, it is often required to bend the reinforcement to form the frame. This operation should only be performed using mechanical means without heating, as is customary among some irresponsible masters. With any heating, the metal changes its structure and can easily burst. Method 2: wire mesh reinforcement
A simpler reinforcement option is a wire mesh. This method allows you to strengthen the screed up to 80 mm thick. It can be used when forming a multi-layer subfloor on a soil base or as a reinforcement of a screed on floor slabs in places of high stress, such as a kitchen, bathroom, hallway or garage. The reinforcing mesh should also be distributed in the thickness of the mortar with which the floor will be poured. In fact, an in-situ mesh reinforcement scheme is similar to the first step in a wireframe reinforcement. As a result, the mesh is set at a height of 2-3 cm and poured with a solution.
The mesh can be either twisted wire or welded. It should be borne in mind that welding is advisable only when using wire and fittings with a diameter of 6 mm or more. If under the screed layer is thermal insulation layer and waterproofing, then binding to the walls is not made and the mesh with its edges should be 3-5 cm from the walls.
There are ready-made metal mesh for concrete reinforcement on sale. It is enough to lay them in strips over the entire surface of the floor with 1-2 cells overlapping each other and tying them with wire. In terms of cost, this option is only marginally more expensive than using wire to form the mesh on its own. But time is spent much less and the reliability of the grid itself is slightly higher.
Method 3: reinforcement with polymer meshes
This is one of the simplest reinforcement methods. It is mainly used not for special strengthening of the screed structure, but to prevent cracking of concrete or cement mortar during complete drying and slight deformation. Often the mesh is placed directly on the base, especially if it is a film placed on a bulk cushion or layer of thermal insulation to prevent cracking on the underside of the screed.
To read: Soft walls in the interior with your own hands
The most widespread use of polymer meshes is found in the process of reinforcing self-leveling floors. This is due to the simplicity of its distribution and the peculiarities of the technology of the self-leveling floors. When they are formed, the main desire is aimed at reducing the volume of the spent solution and the thickness of the resulting layer, and for this, reinforcement options using wire rod, and even more reinforcement, are not suitable. Method 4: using additives in solution
Fiberglass
IN modern construction more and more popularity is gained by fiberglass. These are polymer fibers with a thickness of about 15 microns. By adding them to cement-sand mortar or concrete, you can strengthen the screed layer and prevent the formation of microcracks during the drying process.
Even if the conditions for proper drying and setting of concrete are somewhat violated, the risk of microcracking in concrete is significantly reduced. However, you cannot rely on microfiber to circumvent the requirements and technological aspects forming a concrete floor.
Video: Pouring a Reinforced Concrete Slab
General Tips
When using any method of reinforcement, you can use options for adding microfiber or plasticizers to concrete. You should only follow the instructions for their use and dosage.
The process of forming a screed or self-leveling floors contains many nuances and stages in addition to reinforcement, which must be taken into account and performed in order to obtain a reliable base for the floor as a result. The most complete and complex process is the formation and reinforcement of the floor on the ground. At the same time, up to the concrete screed and reinforcement, layers of sand, gravel, thermal insulation and waterproofing are installed. Violation of the technology of building such a "pie" will nullify any reinforcement efforts.

Building a house using bricks is one of the most common options today.

No matter what expensive materials are purchased for the construction of a structure, after a certain period of time cracks may appear in the walls, which indicates the presence of a negative process taking place in the foundation. It is important to carry out repair work to eliminate the defect as soon as possible. Otherwise, the building may skew, inner surfaces deform, and the foundation will completely crumble.

If the wall is cracked brick house, then before proceeding with repair work you should understand the reasons for the appearance of such a defect. Experts highlight the following points that led to destructive consequences:

proximity groundwater can lead to undermining of the foundation, resulting in deformation of the base and subsidence. In addition, constant changes in temperature conditions negatively affect the binders that make up the foundation;
home shrinkage is a natural process. Depending on the composition of the soil, the soil may shift over several years;
when pouring the foundation, the technological process was disrupted or low-grade material was used.

Liquidation

In fact, the process is quite laborious and requires special attention... In most cases, the defect appears due to deformation of the base. If a crack is evident in the foundation of a brick house, then the following measures will need to be taken:

along the wall where there is a crack, a trench of certain dimensions is dug near the foundation;
an area with a crack is embroidered with the utmost accuracy and care (the hole expands slightly);
to understand how to strengthen the foundation of a brick house, you need to drill holes for the reinforcement rod in the cleaned area. Welding can be used if necessary. Thus, a kind of connecting link is created;
then the formwork is installed and a new foundation layer is poured. Leave the trench filled with mortar to dry completely;
after at least 28 days, tamping can be carried out on the site and a blind area can be built.

Renovation work

By strengthening the foundation in the future, you can prevent the formation of new cracks, as well as stop the process of expanding existing ones. Moreover, this concerns the growth of the defect and the length and width. If the wall of a brick house has already burst, then in addition to strengthening the foundation, a simple procedure should be carried out, according to the results of which it will become obvious whether the growth of the split has stopped. It is enough to stick some kind of beacons made of paper on the cracks in the walls of a brick house. If after a certain period of time the stickers remain intact, then you can safely proceed to repair work. To do this, do the following:

minor cracks in masonry, the reasons for which have been established, and the width does not exceed 5 mm, can be covered with ordinary cement mortar. Previously, the edges of the recess must be carefully knocked off, the debris should be removed, and the surface should be moistened with water for better adhesion to the cement mixture;
if the width of the gap reaches 10 mm, then it is sealed with a cement-sand mortar prepared in a ratio of 1: 3.

When a brick house is cracked, and the width of the target exceeds the average size, then you should more thoroughly approach the task. Eliminating in the first place the causes of cracks in brickwork you can take emergency measures to eliminate surface defects, restoring its integrity.

Before strengthening brick walls, it is necessary to disassemble the damaged fragment of the masonry. The disassembly procedure is carried out from the top row. All bricks that are damaged or not adhered tightly are subject to removal.
Elimination of cracks in masonry occurs by laying new bricks on the cleaned part of the wall. Many may ask the question of how to strengthen the walls of a brick house so that history does not repeat itself in the future. It is enough to include reinforcement, metal corners or strips in the process of performing new masonry. In addition, the masonry must end with a lock.
Restoring the units of a brick house, you need to use strips of steel. Such pads are fastened with bolts or other elements to give strength and reliability to the structure.
If the brick wall is cracked, and it is impossible to sample the brick, then the damaged area must be filled with a mixture of crushed stone and cement mortar. Having retreated from the edge of the crack 20-30 cm, fastening of the "T" -shaped anchor is performed, after which the slot is tied with a strip of metal.
How to strengthen a brick wallif the gap is deep enough? Very simple. Along the entire length of the crack, holes must be drilled, the pitch between which can vary within 20-25 cm. A pipe is inserted into the holes obtained, with which the hole is filled with a cement solution. The pipe nozzles can be used those that are most suitable for filling holes of various diameters.
Strengthening cracks in masonry can also be done using polyurethane foam... After the foam has completely solidified, the excess is cut off, and the surface is treated with cement mortar.

Both vertical and horizontal cracks in brickwork, which have passed through, are eliminated in the event of a complex of restoration works. After it was possible to strengthen the brick wall from the outside, you can proceed to repair measures inside the building.

The section of the wall where there are cracks is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and plaster. The crack is moistened as much as possible inside.
Before reinforcing the old brick wall inside, fill the existing gaps with a solution of fine gravel and cement.
The window section in the brick wall is carefully examined for damage. It may be necessary to remove this one with the subsequent installation of a more perfect one, for example, plastic.
Before pulling the walls of a brick house, you need to carefully examine the entire surface of the wall and fill in all the gaps. Only then are metal plates mounted, which are fixed with any fastening element (bolts, anchors, dowels).
Plaster the wall with special means. After the surface has completely dried, you can safely proceed to the facing work indoors. For more information, read the link.

It is imperative to carry out such work. Indeed, through the mother-in-law in the foundation and the wall, streams of cold air can penetrate into the room, which is simply not permissible. After filling the gaps, an additional layer can be placed thermal insulation materialto create a kind of cold barrier. This, in turn, will largely save money on payment for energy carriers, which is very important at the present time. It is also worth paying attention to the option.
If you still have questions, we recommend watching the video:

Collapse

In the event of a collapse, the walls and corners have a visual deviation from the vertical outward, sometimes wavy. Walls can also be deformed in waves or deflected by the entire plane. In most cases, this is accompanied by the appearance of cracks in the upper corners of door and window openings.

By the degree of coverage, the collapse can be:

Complete. All load-bearing external walls are deformed to varying degrees.
Incomplete (partial). Some walls are deformed.

In both cases, even if only one wall is collapsing, we recommend applying a preventive screed on all sides to prevent the development of movement on other walls.

Depending on the degree of collapse of the walls, measures of different depth of influence are used. We will conventionally divide the degree of collapse into three categories - light, medium and strong, and tell you what to apply in each case.

Light camber

Signs

The tops of the walls are noticeably deformed in the area up to 1/3 of the height of the wall (without the height of the foundation). Cracks in the corners of openings in 50% of cases. The rest of the walls and foundations are normal (no cracks, deformations).

Cause

Occurs due to the unreliability or lack of an armored belt, roof overload, during construction attic floor on the old walls.

Note. The most common mistake leading to roof overload is unaccounted snow load.

Elimination method

In this case, it is reasonable to use a steel mono-yoke (hereinafter referred to as the yoke) on the corner stops for screed walls. At the same time, as in all cases of using various cages, the rods will pass from the outside along the facade of the load-bearing walls, standing in the shape of a rectangle. Sometimes it is necessary to make technological openings for rods in the walls of the outbuildings.

What you need:

Steel corner 100x100 mm (minimum 75x75) - 4 m.
Pipe 1 inch - 1 m.
Stud with thread 20 mm - 4 m.
Stud nuts and washers.
A circle (steel rod) with a diameter of 20 mm or a strip of 40x4 mm - as long as the perimeter of the house.
Welding, painting.

Note. It is undesirable to use reinforcement for rods, since it is not designed for outdoor work and is subject to corrosion.

How to make a corner stop: on steel corner 100x100 mm long, equal to the distance from the top of the wall to the top of the window openings plus 20%, pipe sections 150 mm long are welded on.

The number of stops is equal to the number of corners (4).

Work order:

The rods (strips) are welded into two continuous lashes along the walls of the house minus 200 mm (per tightening stroke).
Then hairpins with a free end of 200 mm are welded at the ends of the lashes.
The pins are threaded into the tubes and the lashes are welded together in the middle.
The entire structure is assembled on the ground and fixed at the required height.
The nuts are tightened to a state of tension.

Attention! When using steel clips and ties, remember that they are for anchoring walls. An attempt to return the walls to their original state can result in breaks and sagging areas.

The design of the steel race may vary. For example, in the case of wavy deformations, a channel can be used as one, several or all four rods. Installation will be more difficult, but the entire load from the wall will be evenly distributed over the rigid channel.

Average camber

Signs

All signs of light collapse extend to 50% of the wall height (excluding the foundation). The probability of cracks in the corners and boundaries of openings is 80%.

Cause

Weak armopoyas. Lack of a bunch of corners and masonry in the wall material, high material wear, overload.

Elimination method

In these cases, a solid corner frame is used. It is arranged similarly to a mono-holder, but along the entire height of the wall and has more tie belts. With an average camber, it is recommended to arrange three belts.

In all cases, the circle can be replaced with a 10x40 mm steel strip.

Attention! The welds must be of good quality (they hold the load). The overlap is 250 mm.

Strong camber

Signs

All signs of medium and light, but at a level of more than 50%. In the overwhelming majority of cases, it is accompanied by the appearance of deep, sometimes open, cracks along the walls and foundation.

Cause

Most often, deformations of the base or foundation are combined with the causes of light to medium collapse. May be accompanied by partial destruction of the foundation.

Elimination method

For repair, use a solid corner cage and retaining wall (support) or support belt of the foundation.

Retaining wall or support is part of the reinforcement belt applied in the deformed area.

Retaining belt is a repair structural element designed to strengthen existing foundation walls along their entire length. It is used when it is necessary to strengthen the foundation. Material - reinforced concrete.

Back-up device. Let's consider an example of a corner section. A solid belt is arranged in a similar way.

First you need to determine the size of the backwater. If we had to resort to such drastic measures, it means that it is too late to calculate the load, especially since the existing foundation remains in place. Therefore, we simplify the calculations towards increasing the safety factor. The backing thickness should be 50% of the foundation wall thickness, but not less than 400 mm. If possible, the bottom of the backwater and the foundation should be at the same level. The optimal ratio of the aboveground to the underground is 1 third above the ground, 2 thirds below the ground.

Attention! Reinforcement rods at the corners must be solid (bent at 90 °). The minimum side of the corner support is equal to three support thicknesses.

Work order:

We excavate the damaged area and clean the trench. We clean the wall of the foundation from oils and organics, residues of waterproofing.
We drill holes with a diameter of 18 mm into the wall of the foundation to a depth of 200 mm in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm.
We drive in reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm and a length equal to the thickness of the support plus 200 mm (hammered into the wall) minus 40 mm (protective layer).
We tie working fittings with a diameter of 16 mm with a pitch of 200 mm to the pins with a knitting wire.
We make U-shaped clamps from 10 mm reinforcement according to the dimensions of the beam frame (support) 600x360x600 mm (workpiece length 1600 mm) and install them with a step of 200 mm.
We install the formwork by size.
We lay concrete (factory or prepared on site) with vibration.
After the concrete has set (3 days), we remove the formwork and apply waterproofing.
We carry out backfilling of soil with tamping and pouring.

Backwater reinforcement: 1 - foundation; 2 - working L-shaped rods Ø 16 mm; 3 - formwork; 4 - U-shaped clamps Ø 10 mm; 5 - rods driven into the foundation, Ø 16 mm

Device costs 1 lin. m backing 400 mm thick, 600 mm high when making concrete on site:

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Rebar 16	run. m	20	30	600	Wall pins and work rods
Rebar 10	run. m	10	20	200	U-shaped clamps
Knitting wire	Kg	0,5	200	100	Anchoring all wireframe elements
Concrete	cub. m	0,25	1000	250
Waterproofing	sq. m	1	20	20
Formwork costs	sq. m	1	100	100	Self-tapping screws, nails, boards
Additional expenses	-	-	300	300	Disks, drill, etc.
Total material				1570	Depends on local conditions and contracts
Job				1000
Total material and work				2570

Blockage

The walls are piled up inside the building. It can be complete or partial (incomplete). At different degrees of deformation (light, medium, strong) one stop method is used.

Note. To repair the blockage, you will need to welding works indoors, which is most often associated with conducting overhaul the whole building. Take care of fire safety.

Full blockage

Sign

Three or more walls are piled inside the building (to varying degrees).

Cause

Weak armored belt, material wear, violation of technology during construction (weak solution, lack of corner reinforcement, etc.).

Elimination method

Rigid spacer self-supporting steel cage (frame) on through fastening.

What you need:

Rotary hammer with drill 18-20 mm.
Channel 50x100-150 - length equal to the perimeter of the walls that need to be reinforced.
Steel plate 200x200x3-4 mm (up to 300x300).
Reinforcement 16 - 3 wall thicknesses for each running meter of the frame.
Good welding (tension), painting.

Operating procedure:

Determine the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced. If necessary, we punch technological holes (for the channel) in the partitions.
We break each wall into steps close to 600-700 mm (but no more). We retreat ½ step from each corner.
Burim through holes 18-20 mm.
On steel plates we weld reinforcement pins perpendicularly with a length equal to the wall thickness plus 100 mm.
We install the resulting anchors into the holes with the plate outward.
Trying on each channel from the inside, mark it under the holes.
We burn with welding the holes in the channel for the reinforcement.
We paint the outer shelf of the channel with a primer (it will adhere to the wall).
We install the channel on the pins in the holes.
We weld the pins in the holes.
In the same way, we install the continuation of the channel.
When the entire perimeter is installed, we weld the channel to each other along the joint and make welded linings from reinforcement 16 - 2 per joint with an overlap of 300 mm.
We strengthen the corners in any way possible (for welding).

Ideal for such a clip - if it will then be covered with a suspended ceiling. Then you can arrange diagonal rods. If a suspended ceiling is not expected, cover the tire with a box.

Attention! The plates on the outside and the reinforcement welded to them, passing inside the wall, are a strong cold bridge and it will destroy the wall with condensation. Be sure to insulate the plates, and preferably the entire wall.

Partial blockage

Sign

One or two walls are overwhelmed.

Cause

The walls are located close to a busy roadway (with tram). Washing with atmospheric waters.

Elimination method

Partial cage arrangement according to the solid principle. The side of the interrupted corner is equal to one third of the length of the heaped wall, but not less than 1.5 meters.

Arrangement of a partial inner cage: 1 - wall with a blockage; 2 - reinforcement with a plate; 3 - channel 100x50x4 mm

With combined collapses / rubble (when the walls diverge into different sides), use the inner frame (first) and the outer screed (second) together. In severe cases, use all the enhancement options at once or their combination.

Calculation of the cost of 1 running meter of the inner cage:

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.
Rebar 16	run. m	1	30	30
Channel 100x50x4	run. m	1	200	200
Plate 300x300x4	PC.	2	150	300
Primer	-	-	20	20
Total material				550
Job				1000
Total material and work				1550

Extension department

Let's consider the most difficult and at the same time popular case - the combined one.

Sign

Through crack along inner corner or at the junction of the extension with the main building with a medium to strong collapse of the outer wall.

Cause

Lack of binding to the wall of the main building during the construction of the extension (in 90% of cases). Weak foundation under the walls of the extension. Overloading of the extension (superstructure, balcony).

Elimination method

A combination of a through, semi-through or anchor clip and back-up:

Through clip - rods pass through load-bearing wall and are fixed (nuts, welding) on \u200b\u200ba thrust bar or plate located with inside walls.
Semi-through cage - one side is of the through type, the other is fixed from the outside to the embedded part.
Anchor clip - the rods are attached to embedded parts, arranged on anchors in the walls of the building.

Extension screed options: 1 - semi-through; 2 - through; 3 - anchor; 4 - corners 100x100 mm; 5 - rods (rod, plate); 6 - capital walls; 7 - plate with anchor; 8 - plate 4 mm

You can arrange any of these types of clips using the instructions above.

Rules for the construction of anchor rods:

A thrust bar or plate located inside the building must not hit the top of the doorway.
Arrange the embeddable parts in the walls at a distance of 1/3 of the extension wall length, set aside from the junction of the walls, but not less than 1.5 meters. Drill 3 points with a diameter from 12 mm, depth 2/3 of the wall thickness.
If the number of anchor rods is more than 2, place them with a break along the length of 1 meter.
The walls of the main building must be free from deformations and cracks.

The support can be as separate (under outside wall), and along the entire length of the foundation of the extension. In this case, the reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the main building at an angle.

Most often, the types of deformations described above occur in houses made of marl or bricks laid on clay. Even in the case of the initial stage of deformations (the appearance of small cracks), we recommend using a preventive screed at home on the corner frames. Remember that any metal that passes through the wall into the room is a cold bridge and will negatively affect the condition of the wall if it is not insulated.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

The problem described resembles a typical case changes in bearing capacity due to changes in hydrogeological conditions. The bearing capacity of the foundation of the house became insufficient, and after the very first crack, it began to actively collapse at an increasing rate (now much less forces are needed for the development of destruction). Reinforcement in the foundation and masonry (armored belt) is most likely absent, and after the appearance of a crack, there is nothing to hold the walls of further destruction.

This problem is fixable. In any case, you should check with the design engineer, giving him the opportunity inspect the building structure in detail... Surely the costs of restoring the integrity of the house will be incomparable with the cost of building a new similar structure or the risk of its sudden catastrophic destruction.

Restoration work procedure

1. Provide an opportunity for specialists examine the house in detail, including a fragment of pits along the foundations, punching walls for sampling and studying their construction.

2. If necessary, perform strengthening the foundation... There are many ways and techniques, so it is difficult to advise anything without studying the real situation. If from a specialist there is a recommendation to strengthen the foundation with an increase in its depth, you should first strengthen the house according to the following recommendations, and then return to strengthening.

3. It is necessary inject cracks and pull the building... This requires:

3.1. Clean the plaster along the cracks down to the brick. The width of the cleared strip is at least 5 cm.

3.2. Flush the cracks water from a hose under pressure. Remove loose pieces of old mortar from cracks and any other debris accessible to removal.

3.3. Glue the fiberglass along the cracks on epoxy adhesive... After 20-30 cm, leave holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

3.4. Fill the cracks repair staff. Normal tile adhesive gives good results. The solution should be diluted to the state of liquid sour cream. As an injector, a syringe gun is also used to seal the seams of the panels or a conventional silicone gun with an empty bottle of some sealant. Cracks are filled from bottom to top from the outer and inner sides of the wall simultaneously to the hole. Then you need to close it with a stopper (you can use plasticine), rearrange the injector higher and repeat the operation. In this case, it would be preferable to use a professional injector.

3.5. Pull down the building strands of smooth reinforcing steel according to this scheme.

The braces should be placed under the ceiling of the 2nd floor and above the floor of the 1st floor. Due to the high coefficient of thermal expansion of steel, they should be placed only inside the house. The range of rolled metal products in the figure is roughly indicated, based on the assumption that the building is brick and has a maximum size of 8x8 m. The screw tightening process should be started at the highest possible temperature inside the building. Tighten the screws evenly throughout the building. At the end of this work weld the nuts with electric welding, paint the metal parts, plaster or concretize the ties and nuts with plates on the facade, complete the final finishing.

From the author:my home is my castle, isn't it? Of course, dear reader, you have heard this saying in different contexts. Today we will just look at one of these contexts. We will mainly talk about how to strengthen the wall from the outside so that your home really becomes a reliable and safe fortress for you.

I suppose there is no need to say much about the importance of strengthening walls made of brick or other material. If the wall of the house has significant damage, which may have been imposed by time (the walls of the old house), perhaps a natural disaster, perhaps something else, then the building needs to be reconstructed, since a suddenly collapsed wall (and they usually fall suddenly), will not lead to anything good.

Before we start looking at the workflow, let's note one important nuance: often cracks are a kind of indicator that literally "shouts" to us that something is wrong with the construction. It is clear that if the house is very old, if not ancient, then the appearance of cracks on the walls is quite natural and logical. But it may be different.

There was one remarkable case in my repair and construction practice. In a private house, a crack crept along the wall. The owner thought it was the walls, but the problem turned out to be somewhat deeper. Moreover, in the literal sense of the word "deeper". It turned out that the foundation of the house was shrinking. The perfect solution in this situation, pouring concrete into the trench along the perimeter of the building would serve, of course, with preliminary reinforcement.

But due to circumstances, the customer ordered differently: the task was to dig a trench only along the wall on which the crack was found, then reinforcement and pouring concrete, and finally, the brick wall itself had to be repaired. Let's just say that this is not a complex solution to the issue, but still, it is a solution.

All necessary work were completed within two days. The shrinkage of the house was suspended and the wall was repaired as required. This life story is given here as an example. This implies one simple rule: before you start, you need to understand the reasons for their occurrence.

Reasons for the appearance of cracks on the walls

And the reasons, as a rule, arise as follows:

groundwater, gradually undermining the foundation and leading to deformation of the foundation (as, indeed, it was in the above case);
natural process of shrinkage of the structure. Here, basically, everything depends on the soil on which our building is based. Depending on the composition of the soil, soil shear may occur. For example, this is a fairly common occurrence on sandy soil;
construction errors. There are a lot of options here: poor-quality mortar, incorrect concrete pouring technology, poor quality of reinforcement, and so on.

How to fight

If you realized that it is not so much about the walls as about the foundation of the house, then you have to act in the same way that my partner and I used during the renovation of the house, washed away by groundwater. Thus, our procedure will be represented by the following points:

dig a trench where a crack appeared on the wall. If the situation is similar to critical, that is, if we understand that strengthening the house on only one side will not lead to the desired result, then the trench must be dug around the perimeter. In our case, its depth was approximately 80–100 cm. However, one should not get attached to these numbers. The main thing for us is to dig up to the foundation and, if possible, dig about 7-10 cm under it, so that later concrete will fill this space, thereby strengthening the foundation. The trench is usually 50–60 cm wide;
lay waterproofing. For this we need a regular oilcloth. It is necessary for the concrete to cure correctly. This means that the soil does not absorb moisture from the solidifying solution. Otherwise, the base will turn out to be fragile;
perform reinforcement. Rebar knitting is a whole craft, if not an art. The reinforcing belt must be correctly designed and special emphasis should be placed on the corners;
finally, we pour from a concrete mixer;
after drying - done! The foundation has been successfully strengthened;
then you should start repairing the cracked wall.

This is how the foundation of the house is strengthened and new cracks are prevented. If our wall has burst, then the situation takes on a more serious turn. In this case, we need to assess the full scale and seriousness of the situation. And one should start by finding out whether the movement of the split has stopped or is still continuing. Simply glue strips of paper across the break in several places. If, after the expiration of, say, five to six days, the paper remains intact, then you can safely proceed to finishing works... If the paper is torn, then you may have to dismantle part of the wall and then build a new one. This is a rather extensive topic, so we will not dwell on it in detail in our article.

But the case when our paper "seals" remained intact - we, naturally, will analyze. After all, strengthening the wall of a house implies exactly this process.

Strengthening the walls

Very small cracks (up to 5 mm) can be treated with conventional cement mortar. But before starting the work, the edges must be knocked off, so to speak, by expanding the crack. Next, it must be cleaned of dust and small debris, and for better adhesion (adhesion of the solution to the working surface), the area where the solution will be applied should be.

If the width is from 5 to 10 mm, the same operations should be performed, but only use the already cement-sand mixture... The "recipe" for this solution is simple: we observe the proportions of 1: 3 (one part of cement to three parts of sand). Gradually add water - and stir until the consistency of thick sour cream, after which - apply with a spatula to the surface. Do not forget about the preliminary primer.

We have considered situations that will not be difficult to fix. The work will not take much time and will not require much effort and financial expenses from you. But what about more serious cracks? If the crack is wider than a few centimeters, this is just such a case. But we will find a way out of this situation.

We need to take apart the damaged area of \u200b\u200bthe brickwork. Disassembly of the masonry should be done from top to bottom It is necessary to liquidate not only those bricks that are affected by the crack, but also those that do not hold tightly, too. After all, as we know, this is just another brick in the wall © Pink Floyd.

Strengthening is carried out as follows: new bricks are put in place of old bricks. Is that all? - you may be surprised. In essence, yes. But in order to further strengthen the wall, the use of reinforcement will be very appropriate in the process of laying new bricks. It can also be replaced by strips of metal, metal corners or any other still unnecessary metal objects that are idle in your yard, slowly becoming covered with a layer of rust - they can be used here. By the way, if you poured concrete under the foundation, strengthening it, you can also place other unnecessary items in the trench, in addition to reinforcement,: pipes, gratings, and so on. From this, the strength of the monolithic block will only increase.

But if you cannot disassemble the masonry for some objective and subjective reasons, then the crevice will have to be filled with a mixture, which will include crushed stone and cement. At a distance of ± 25 cm from the crack, anchor the "T" -shaped anchor and then tie the crack securely.

If the gap is deep enough, then cement mix with gravel will not save the situation. But we will go the other way. We'll have to drill holes in increments of 20 to 25 cm. A pipe must be inserted into these holes through which the solution will be fed into the crevice.

Cracks in the wall can also be strengthened with polyurethane foam, although this option cannot be called reliable. The gap is simply blown out with foam, and then, after it hardens, the excess that protrudes beyond the wall is cut off. For this, a regular stationery knife with replaceable blades is also suitable. After we got rid of the excess foam, the surface will have to be treated with cement mortar.

It is also possible that the crack on the wall has gone right through. Well, we already know how to eliminate the defect from the outside. Now we go inside. The set of activities that we should carry out will be as follows:

cleaning the working surface from old plaster;
crack treatment with a penetrating primer;
filling the crevice with mortar;
further finishing works (primer /).

So we figured out how the walls of the house are strengthened, where the brickwork did not cope with its "duties". Now we will consider another common case when restoration of a structure is required. And the object of our further research will be the walls of the house made of slag.

Repair of cinder block walls

The walls in such houses become cracked over time. And the reasons for that, in principle, are the same as those of brick houses. Therefore, the algorithm of actions will be approximately the same as when working with a brick building.

The basis of the foundations is, of course, strengthening the foundation. In such a structure, the foundation could be poured without (!) Reinforcement at all. So, in some cases, there is an involuntary feeling of wonder how such a building could stand for so many years. So, the foundation should be strengthened in 9 cases out of 10. Perhaps this is a subjective conclusion based on personal observations. Nevertheless, this opinion often coincides with the views of “colleagues in the shop”.

Suppose we dug a trench of the required depth, laid a layer of waterproofing, correctly reinforced it and, finally, poured concrete. What's next? - and then the walls will be repaired. But, since cinder blocks are different from ordinary bricks, then the algorithm will be somewhat different.

I will recommend you one effective way to solve the problem: installing a monolithic reinforcing belt around the entire perimeter of the building. Naturally, it is advisable to hold this event after the foundation of the house has been strengthened. Thanks to this method, you will definitely extend the life of your home and prevent new cracks from appearing.

So, we need the following building materials for work:

actually, fittings. Not just any, but 12-14 mm. In addition, it must (!) Be corrugated, with corrugation A500C GOST P 52544-206;

reinforcing mesh, which we will fix horizontally on the wall to enhance the effect;
wire for knitting reinforcement;
cement-sand mixture;

Of the tools we need:

puncher;
welding machine;
bulgarian;
crochet hook for wire;
a hammer;
nippers;
container for kneading.

The reinforcing belt is laid in a hollow, which we will make with a puncher. The belt will have to be installed more than one - from one there will be no sense. There should be at least two of them, at least two (!) Rows. The first double belt is laid at the top - above the window, and the second, as you might guess, - at the bottom of the window opening.

In the place where the two ends of one belt come together, they must be firmly tied with wire, or better, welded. Then you should install the reinforcing mesh, and then proceed to the finishing work. As a logical course of events, we can assume that you decide. For this purpose, polystyrene / expanded polystyrene (penoplex) is best suited. After the foam is attached to the walls, the surface should be plastered and painted. You can, of course, not use insulation, if this is not necessary. Then we will only have to prime and plaster the walls.

Now you have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to reinforce walls from cinder blocks and how to complete the subsequent finish.

Strengthening the load-bearing wall

How to strengthen a load-bearing wall during redevelopment? By strengthening the load-bearing wall, here we mean the following: "strengthening" the openings that are made through this wall.

We know that it is strictly forbidden to remove load-bearing walls during redevelopment. This can lead to extremely undesirable consequences, up to the great fall of the entire apartment building. This cannot be allowed, but what about the openings that need to be made through such an important wall? Now we will answer this question.

If you need to make a passage in the usual interior wall, - everything is simple here. In this case, amplification is not required at all. But what if the wall is load-bearing? It is definitely forbidden to perform any unauthorized operations with her. Your actions must be coordinated and regulated in the relevant government agencies.

And then - the flag is in your hands. More precisely, a puncher. Strengthening the doorway in the load-bearing wall itself implies the installation of a solid metal frame, which will take on part of the load.

Quite often, it becomes necessary to expand the doorway. And, by the way, sometimes it is the expansion of the doorway that is the only correct decision.

For example, you are going to do something like a studio.

This means combining the kitchen and living room into one spacious room. But bad luck - the wall between the rooms turned out to be load-bearing. Therefore, it cannot be demolished. But you can do it differently. For example, expand a doorway and make it no longer a door, but an arch. Such a decision is perfectly acceptable (if, of course, it is regulated in accordance with the law).

Now we will find out how to strengthen the opening in the load-bearing wall. We will need a large grinder, a punch and tools individual protection - respirator, ear muffs and goggles. Especially for people with respiratory diseases, a respirator is simply vital when working.

Now we need to cut / hollow out grooves (indentations) along the perimeter of the doorway / arch. These grooves are made on both sides of the wall, naturally, strictly parallel. To avoid mistakes, you can make through holes with a punch in the corners of our future passage.

In the grooves that we just made, we put channels that have a wonderful ability to be pulled together thanks to the long spokes. Side and top are simply welded together. By the way, the depth of the groove must correspond to the parameters of the channel.

This is how this work looks in stages:

Section of the channel by size. Steam should be prepared immediately.
Twisting of paired channels using clamps. Immediately, we make through holes in them with a step of about 300-400 mm.
Preparing holes for studs in the wall itself.
Installation of the channel inside the groove (groove). The next step is to drill the holes right through the ones we have already made.
Installation of the first pair. It will be more convenient if you first install the vertical (left, right) than those located at the top. Now you need to thread the pins into these holes, and then put a washer → engraver → nut on it - on each of its sides. The nuts should be tightened as tightly as possible. Install the second pair and the upper ones in the same way.
Welding of channels.

On this preparatory work finished. It's time to crash!

It is clear that all walls are different, because each case of "collapse" is purely individual. The easiest way is to break a brick wall. The main thing here is to deal with the first row, the rest of the bricks will succumb without any special "persuasion".

The worst case is concrete wall with fittings. Here we have to work hard. Perhaps the work will drag on for the whole day. It all depends on the hammer drill and your enthusiasm. Although, in this case, the "bump stop" is more suitable.

But you can also resort to a little tactical trick. If the wall is thick, concrete and reinforced, then it will be advisable to immerse the cutting disc of our grinder to the full depth, making vertical cuts at a distance of 5-10 cm. Then, according to the same principle, we make horizontal cuts. Thus, a grid is formed on the fragment of the wall to be demolished. Components this mesh will be much easier to remove. This is much more logical than immediately pounced on a solid piece of the wall. The subsequent coat should be treated in the same way.

Sometimes, when dismantling load-bearing structures, it is advisable to decide not to do everything with your own hands, but still involve professionals. This applies to thick internal and external load-bearing walls. the work of dismantling them is dusty, noisy, long and hard.

If you did it, congratulations! Now we have nothing left. We need to correctly complete the reinforcement of the metal structure. Here's how to set it up:

to strengthen the channels, that is, to connect them with the help of metal plates, two channels of the same pair. These plates should be well welded. They should be installed at the same distance from each other as we put the studs - that is, 30–40 cm. And so - along the entire perimeter of our new passage;
complete the welding of channels in those places that were inaccessible while a piece of the wall was in place;
inside the opening, it is necessary to weld a metal reinforcing mesh onto the channel, and then proceed to the starting finish (primer / cement mortar).

Today we have discussed a fairly extensive topic that concerns the strengthening and dismantling of walls. I really hope that you have found the answers to your questions in this article.

Thank you so much for your time. All the best, dear reader, pleasant wall treatment. Until next time!

Building a house using bricks is one of the most common options today.

No matter what expensive materials are purchased for the construction of a structure, after a certain period of time, cracks may appear in the walls, which indicates the presence of a negative process taking place in the foundation. It is important to carry out repair work to eliminate the defect as soon as possible. Otherwise, the building may skew, deform the inner surfaces, and the foundation will completely crumble.

If the wall of a brick house is cracked, then before proceeding with the repair work, you should understand the reasons for the appearance of such a defect. Experts identify the following points that led to destructive consequences:

the proximity of groundwater can lead to undermining of the foundation, resulting in deformation of the base and subsidence. In addition, constant temperature fluctuations negatively affect the binders that make up the foundation;
home shrinkage is a natural process. Depending on the composition of the soil, the soil may shift over several years;
when pouring the foundation, the technological process was disrupted or low-grade material was used.

Liquidation

In fact, the process is quite laborious and requires special attention. In most cases, the defect appears due to deformation of the base. If a crack is evident in the foundation of a brick house, then the following measures will need to be taken:

along the wall where there is a crack, a trench of certain dimensions is dug near the foundation;
an area with a crack is embroidered with the utmost accuracy and care (the hole expands slightly);
to understand how to strengthen the foundation of a brick house, you need to drill holes for the reinforcement rod in the cleaned area. Welding can be used if necessary. Thus, a kind of connecting link is created;
then the formwork is installed and a new foundation layer is poured. Leave the trench filled with mortar to dry completely;
after at least 28 days, tamping can be carried out on the site and a blind area can be built.

Renovation work

minor cracks in masonry, the reasons for which have been established, and the width does not exceed 5 mm, can be covered with ordinary cement mortar. Previously, the edges of the recess must be carefully knocked off, the debris should be removed, and the surface should be moistened with water for better adhesion to the cement mixture;
if the width of the gap reaches 10 mm, then it is sealed with a cement-sand mortar prepared in a ratio of 1: 3.

When cracked brick house, and the width of the target exceeds the average size, then you should more thoroughly approach the implementation of this task. Having eliminated in the first place the causes of cracks in the brickwork, you can take emergency measures to eliminate surface defects, restoring its integrity.

Before strengthening brick walls, it is necessary to disassemble the damaged fragment of the masonry. The disassembly procedure is carried out from the top row. All bricks that are damaged or not adhered tightly are subject to removal.
Elimination of cracks in masonry occurs by laying new bricks on the cleaned part of the wall. Many may ask the question of how to strengthen the walls of a brick house so that history does not repeat itself in the future. It is enough to include reinforcement, metal corners or strips in the process of performing new masonry. In addition, the masonry must end with a lock.
Restoring the units of a brick house, you need to use strips of steel. Such pads are fastened with bolts or other elements to give strength and reliability to the structure.
If the brick wall is cracked, and it is impossible to sample the brick, then the damaged area must be filled with a mixture of crushed stone and cement mortar. Having retreated from the edge of the crack 20-30 cm, fastening of the "T" -shaped anchor is performed, after which the slot is tied with a strip of metal.
How to strengthen a brick wallif the gap is deep enough? Very simple. Along the entire length of the crack, holes must be drilled, the pitch between which can vary within 20-25 cm. A pipe is inserted into the holes obtained, with which the hole is filled with a cement solution. The pipe nozzles can be used those that are most suitable for filling holes of various diameters.
Strengthening cracks in masonry it is also possible to carry out using polyurethane foam. After the foam has completely solidified, the excess is cut off, and the surface is treated with cement mortar.

Both vertical and horizontal cracks in the brickwork, which have gone through, are eliminated in the event of a complex of restoration work. After it was possible to strengthen the brick wall from the outside, you can proceed to repair measures inside the building.

The section of the wall where there are cracks is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and plaster. The crack is moistened as much as possible inside.
Before reinforcing the old brick wall inside, fill the existing gaps with a solution of fine gravel and cement.
Window section in brick wall is carefully examined for damage. It may be necessary to remove this one with the subsequent installation of a more perfect one, for example, plastic.
Before pulling the walls of a brick house, you need to carefully examine the entire surface of the wall and fill in all the gaps. Only then are metal plates mounted, which are fixed with any fastening element (bolts, anchors, dowels).
Plastering wall special means... After the surface has completely dried, you can safely proceed to the facing work indoors. For more information, read the link.

It is imperative to carry out such work. Indeed, through the mother-in-law in the foundation and the wall, streams of cold air can penetrate into the room, which is simply not permissible. After filling the gaps, an additional layer of heat-insulating material can be placed to create a kind of barrier to the cold. This, in turn, will largely save money on payment for energy carriers, which is very important at the present time. It is also worth paying attention to the option.
If you still have questions, we recommend watching the video: