Stages of processing a house made of rounded logs. Treatment of logs with protective compounds: internal and external. The importance of staged processing

Log houses and saunas are very popular, which is quite natural, because wooden house considered more environmentally friendly than brick or stone. A log house is made, as a rule, from a rounded bar. In winter, the walls of such a house are warm, and in summer they keep the desired coolness. In order for a log house to serve for a long time, it needs processing, grinding and high-quality impregnation. But how to process the blockhouse, how and when to do it? Can't we do without it?

Why handle logs

Wood is a living material, it is susceptible to fungal infections, mold, in addition, wood can delaminate, dry out, or vice versa, swell. To avoid the troubles associated with the properties of wood, it is necessary to carry out processing.

Inside the walls of the house are not exposed to aggressive influences environment, which cannot be said about the baths made of wood. In addition to the specified external effects on the walls wooden frame, inside the bath, the walls are exposed to elevated temperatures and humidity. Because of this, the need is so important additional protection the walls of the bath from the inside.

Does not take the last place appearance houses. Therefore, the treatment is not only functional, but also aesthetic character, since almost all means of impregnation for a log house have decorative properties.

Log processing takes place in several stages with different compositions, including:

antiseptic;
fire retardant;
whitening.

Pre-grinding

Before treating the blockhouse with impregnation, it requires grinding, which solves whole line questions:

eliminates roughness;
masks cracks;
removes bark;
makes it look better.

In addition, sanding prepares the logs for impregnation with other substances after this work. Grinding is carried out when the upper surface of the timber dries well. If you try to sand raw wood, it will delaminate the wood fibers.

Grinding is carried out in several ways:

First, a grinder and an abrasive disc are used.
Then a grinder and attachments with varying degrees of graininess are applied.
After that, the final grinding is carried out with a fine-grained nozzle.

Sawdust remaining after grinding is removed or used for gardening work. After grinding the rounded timber, you can directly impregnate the log house.

Whitening agents

To protect the surface of the rounded timber from being damaged by a fungus that causes the wood to turn blue, the frame is additionally treated with bleaching agents:

"Sagus";
"Saga";
"Neomid 500";
"Liga" - a new drug, remarkable in that it is able to revive an old tree, relieves the blockhouse from blackness, blue, returning its former appearance.

First, the blockhouse is treated with a bleaching agent, and then with an antiseptic.

Antiseptic treatment

Antiseptic impregnation is used to increase the service life of wooden structures and is carried out both inside and outside the premises of the house and bath. Antiseptics prevent the development and reproduction of bacteria inside the walls. The initial impregnation with an antiseptic is carried out by the manufacturer of the rounded timber, after which the tree is kept for at least six months - a year for complete drying and only after that it is delivered to the object.

For the treatment of internal and external surfaces, easy and difficult to wash off antiseptic compositions are used. Light washable dry quickly and are less resistant to moisture, they are applied to inner surfaces... Difficult to wash dry extremely slowly, but sufficiently resistant to washing out by precipitation, recommended for external processing of rounded timber.

Antiseptic preparations used for the outer surfaces of the timber:

"Neomid 440" (protects the timber from bacteria, fungal diseases and viruses for up to 15 years);
"Aquatex" (in addition to the main protective functions, it gives the timber the appearance of valuable types of wood, and also protects the walls of the bath from decay, water, sun rays);
Prosept Ultra;
"League-Bioshield".

Antiseptics for impregnating a log house inside:

"Neomid 430";
"Prosept Interior".

The antiseptic is made using synthetic and natural oils that can penetrate into the wood fibers, after which they form a stable compound. Antiseptic coating is carried out in several stages. Each next layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely dried. Processing is not allowed until the rounded timber is dry, as well as in wet weather.

Fire retardant treatment

Since wood is highly flammable, first of all, you need to think about fire protection... Fire retardants must be used for the processing of log wood in any case.

For fireproof impregnation, the following means are used:

"Neomid 530" - in addition to fire-fighting properties, has protection against biological damage, as well as decorative properties.
"Senezh Ognebio" - provides protection against decay, fire, insect pests.
"Fenilax" - protects against fire and internal damage, penetrating into the depth of the wood.
"KSD" - this tool, in addition to fire retardant properties, is an antiseptic.
"Pirilax SS-20" - used for processing the walls of the bath inside.
"Pirilax 3000" - this product is used to treat baths outside.

Fire protection is manifested when an open flame or high temperatures act on the round timber. After a fire, a foam layer appears on the treated walls of the log house, which stops the access of oxygen to the surface and prevents the fire from spreading.

Stages and methods of applying compositions

So, the processing and impregnation of a log house is carried out in several layers. Logs must first be covered with:

bleaching agent to avoid premature aging of wood;
antiseptic - the first layer is applied by the manufacturer;
refractory layer.

Separately, it is worth highlighting a tool than to process the ends of the logs. The fact is that the end part of the log absorbs moisture more strongly than the side part. To prevent the wood from absorbing moisture, it is necessary to cover the logs with a water-repellent layer.

The ends of the logs must be covered at least 5 times, special attention, paying attention to the logs of the lower tier, while the side part will be covered in 2 layers. It is advisable to carry out the processing of the lower tier additionally by all means, since at the bottom the log house is subject not only to climatic effects, but also to the influence of dampness from the ground.

Layering methods:

The surface can be coated with a roller or brush, this method is suitable for thick mixtures.
Using a spray (spray gun) - for aqueous solutions.
It is possible to cover the surface by dipping, thus, the timber is covered evenly from all sides.

It is not worth saving on processing a wooden block, so that you do not have to bear additional costs to eliminate all kinds of problems.

Buying round timber for the construction of a country bathhouse is the starting stage of a laborious series of actions. The result of the work should be a solid, beautiful log house. The complex of actions consists in the full preparation of timber for the laying of crowns and for their further service. Preparation for the construction of a log house can be ordered or done with your own hands. However, both customers and independent home craftsmen need to know how to competently handle a log with their own hands. After all, most of the operations are performed manually in accordance with the special rules of wooden architecture.

We express our gratitude to the company VseDoma.com, which carries out the construction of wooden houses and baths on a very high level... If you decide to order a building for yourself, go there. Thanks to them, this article was written.

The ax and the scraper are your best friends

Advertising assurances about the "cosmic" speed of assembling crowns, fully prepared by the seller for construction, are somewhat exaggerated. True, construction from calibrated logs with formed structural elements will undoubtedly go much more "fun" than from freshly cut wood. You will have to tinker a lot, because each future wall element you need:

cut to size according to a previously prepared project and the selected type of corner joint;
debarking - to get rid of the bark, which is very attractive for the bug;
chill - remove the layer of fresh bark left after debarking in order to eliminate the causes of premature decay of the bast. This operation is one of the optional, but strongly recommended procedures;
cut according to the installation method and place of installation;
select grooves for corner locking knots.

If necessary, you will still need to cut off numerous knots, splicate logs, gouge nests and perform a lot of other operations. This is if the potential owner of the bathhouse purchases timber of the 4th, the lowest grade. However, let's forget about the adherents of such austerity. It will require the least effort from an inexperienced carpenter if the owner does not skimp on the second grade wood. In construction, the use of third-rate logs is allowed, but it is better to compare your own capabilities, costs and labor costs initially.

For each of the carpentry actions, there is a specialized hand tool, often replaced by current builders with chainsaws and electric planers. Their use is not prohibited, but it is necessary to partially use them in the most labor-intensive processes. Because round timber processed with a tool gasoline engine or electric drive, is more prone to rotting than hand-hewn and cut wood. Power saws and other super fast tools shag wood fibers and leave waterways open to moisture.

For more information on how to choose an electric plane, see the article

Working with an ax, a standard plane, a scraper, a traditional chisel, a home craftsman will "clog" the wood capillaries. Atmospheric and bath moisture will then not negatively affect the log structure. By the way, it will stand much longer than a similar building made of rounded material. In the latter variant, the fibers are also unprotected from water penetration. Moreover, during calibration, the machine removes the outer layer that is resistant to negative. Therefore, zealous owners are advised to buy round wood and process the logs for their favorite log bath with their own hands, using simple carpentry devices.

If you want to build a brick bath, we advise you to watch the video

Rules for choosing good timber

Since we are talking about the type of forest, let's touch on the topic of choosing a log. Optimal material pine is rightfully recognized for independent, because:

this type of wood is quite soft and easy to handle;
timber harvesting is carried out in latitudes close to the upcoming construction;
the surface rarely requires additional processing;
the minimum number of knots on the whip;
barrel escape, i.e. the difference between the largest and smallest diameter in a meter segment of a log corresponds to the limits necessary in construction from 0.8 cm to 1.0 cm.

Pine attracts with its price, acceptable resin content and advantages of uncomplicated processing. It does not crack as intensely as spruce. In terms of density, pine logs are ideal as a wall material. With the exception of the lowest flange, which takes on all the load from the structure under construction. To form the first row of logs, it is advisable to purchase an oak with a maximum density, or larch resistant to ground moisture. The use of pine for the construction of a casing is not excluded, but logs need to be taken with a diameter of 5-7 cm larger than the entire timber.

An important criterion for choosing a forest is the width of the longitudinal groove, which is formed along the entire log for ordinary laying and joining the underlying crown with its upper brother. The recommended value for this size is 2/3 of the average diameter of a standard log from the purchased batch. The average diameter is equal to the arithmetic mean between the butt and apex diameters.

The width of the longitudinal groove is regulated folk rulesbased on many years of experience in wooden architecture:

with repeated winter thermometer readings in the -40 ° C region, the width of the base of the lunar longitudinal groove, i.e. distance between projection extreme points notches on an imaginary straight line, should be from 14 to 16 cm;
for regions with winter temperature values \u200b\u200bof -30 ºС this size is 12 cm;
for regions with frosts of -20 ° C, the longitudinal groove should be made 10 cm wide.

This means that for the construction of a log house in the northern regions, the best wall material will be a log with an average diameter of 21-24 cm. Further, according to the degree of climate mitigation, 18 cm and 15 cm.

Root-cut timber does not need to be stored for more than 2 weeks. Dried wood will make processing difficult. Logs should be stacked with squared or plank pads between rows. Spacers are required for ventilation.

A log "overexposed" during natural drying is more warped and cracked if a longitudinal notch is made in time on the side opposite to the groove. With a notch, the wood will still crack, but the process will be less active, because the tension in the log will be relieved. And after the shrinkage of the frame, the cracks will be almost invisible.

You need to store the wood on a flat area prepared for its storage. It is advisable to arrange a canopy that protects the untreated whip from direct hitting UV rays and from precipitation, and a kind of "pallet" from a beam laid at intervals.

Step-by-step technology for processing logs

After the "correct" aging of the timber in natural conditions, you can proceed to the preparation stages: for debarking, felling and chipping logs in order to create wall elements ready for laying.

Stage # 1 - making working devices

Carpentry work is not easy and sometimes dangerous. The logs have a lot of weight and an unstable rounded configuration, the do-it-yourselfer has a double-edged tool. Comfortable work without the risk of injury will be provided by simple devices - pads and staples. They are needed to fix the raw whip in the position required for the work.

The linings are made from chocks, hewn one edging from the side of installation on the ground, it is possible from scraps of large section timber or boards placed on the end. You can not choose in the workpiece, but it is better to choose a rectangular or triangular groove in cross section. Best fit will be if the groove is triangular. The logs installed on the lining are necessarily fixed with iron brackets. When the staples are hammered, the fibers are not disturbed, so that such fasteners will not harm the material.

Stage # 2 - cutting the log to size

The size of the logs for the crowns must correspond to the design and type of the corner lock. The fundamental difference in corner joints must be taken into account:

if a log house is cut into a bowl with corners protruding beyond its outline, the logs should be 60 cm longer than the design dimensions of the wall;
if the felling is carried out according to the "in the paw" scheme, the length of the log is equal to the design value.

In length, the log dries out by an insignificant amount: 0.1% of the total length of the material. This value does not need to be taken into account when marking the cutting line.

It is more convenient to mark the cutting lines by strengthening the log on a lining. If the material was purchased with significant dimensional differences, it is better to take a segment with an approximate average diameter as a central reference point. From it in both directions, you need to set aside half the required length. Although it is often advised to shorten the whip from the tip side to minimize flow.

Shortening logs that are too long is not prohibited with a chainsaw, but an ax is a legitimate priority. It is necessary to cut along the marked line with alternation of perpendicularly directed blows with blows at an angle of 45º.

Stage # 3 - removing bark from the trunk

Logs cut to size must be debarked, i.e. to deprive the unaesthetic outer layer. Debarking can be done in three ways:

perform roughing with an ax, which consists in removing the top layer with simultaneous chopping of knots. For adherents of rustic exterior and interior stylistics, this rough processing with the creation of a variegated surface is often enough;
to carry out a more "detailed" removal of the bark with a scraper, which ultimately allows to obtain a smooth surface of a pleasant light color. The disadvantage of this method is insufficient processing of the trunk surface in the area of \u200b\u200bknots previously cut with an ax;
remove the loose top layer with an ordinary plane. The quality of processing is higher than barking with a scraper, but the protective shell from the log will be cut off with a plane. Planed logs must be treated with an antiseptic compound.

A bayonet shovel with a sharpened blade edge is recognized as a completely suitable tool for removing bark.

Stage # 4 - weaving logs for a capstan

They did not forget that the first crown will be composed of the thickest logs. They will have to be cut by one edging in order to lay them on a pre-waterproofed foundation with an evenly hewn side.

Please note that chipping and felling of logs for the subsequent construction of crowns must be done so that the "winter" side of the log with a denser arrangement of annual rings is turned outward. So the heat engineering qualities of the log house will be higher.

The sequence of work on the cutting of logs on one edge:

At the ends of the log fixed in the lining, mark the points of its central axis.
By plumb line or by level at both ends, we outline vertical lines, according to which the vertical border of the cut will pass.
"Draw" a horizontal line of the cut. At the upper points of the drawn borders, we make splints with an ax or hammer in nails. Between the points we pull tightly a coated cord, nylon thread or fishing line, fixing the ends in serifs or tying them around a nail. If we had a coated cord, we pull it according to the principle of the bowstring and the “shoot” type: the line will spontaneously be drawn. Along the line, you can draw a border with your own hand with charcoal or a marker. Because shrinkage will be carried out strictly vertically, there is no need to draw the opposite horizontal border.
We carry out a rough heaving, not reaching the outlined border of 7-10mm. To facilitate the work, we make transverse notches through the entire hump of the log. Then we remove the log segments between the notches with an ax. Instead of notches, it is wiser to make cuts with a chainsaw at the same depth and with the same pitch, and finish them with an ax.
Then, with a medium-sized ax, remove the wood to the outlined line.
We clean off the hewn surface of the log with a scherhebel.

In the logs of the crown, it is also necessary to make cuttings for connections in the paw or in the bowl according to the design solution. It will be about the methods of their production. If the basement of the bathhouse has already been poured and is ready for the construction of a log house, the prepared logs can already be laid on the waterproofed base. If not, we number the logs and send them to the stack.

Stage # 5 - cutting a longitudinal groove

Longitudinal grooves are cut out on all ordinary logs for tight joining of the wall material. Simplified, the process can be called cutting off 2/3 of the hump of a log followed by the formation of a moon-shaped notch, repeating the shape of the underlying or overlying wall element. In general, the location of the longitudinal groove is directly related to the type of the locking bowl. More precisely, it is turned up or down. It is preferable that corner joints together with the longitudinal grooves were, as if, covered with a log, i.e. upside down to prevent moisture from entering the connections.

The basic principle of building walls in wooden construction Butt-to-top. The alternation of the narrow and wide end of the log is necessary to align the crowns into the horizon. This indisputable rule must be taken into account when marking grooves.

The marking of the rounded groove is made with a carpenter's line - a kind of compass. The similarity of the line can be done independently by tightly screwing a wire with sharp edges to the handle of a hammer or to a stick. According to folk technology, a groove is drawn with considerable effort:

we put the log in the place it should be in the log house, then we accurately draw the outlines of the hump of the lower log at the end of the upper element using a carpenter's line or a homemade "compass" with two wire legs;
by analogy with the marking of the chipping, we mark the longitudinal lines;
we transfer the marked log to an area convenient for work and fasten it in the linings:
we make notches or cuts along the entire length of the processed log;
we carry out a rough and final teska, then we process the groove with a sherhebel;
we coat the entire surface of the groove with coal and put it on the place for checking it in the frame. If unpainted areas on the lower log are revealed, remove the excess from the groove and try again.

According to the rules, longitudinal grooves are formed simultaneously with cutting into a paw or into one of the types of bowls, we will talk about the methods of their manufacture separately.

We familiarized with general principles preparation of timber for the construction of a log house. They will help both an independent home craftsman in his difficult work, and the customer of the builders' efforts who wants to control the literacy of the execution.

Nowadays, buildings made from logs processed on cylindering machines are very popular. But any master will say that wood is a very capricious material. It is afraid of water, but at the same time it is impossible to seal its pores and prevent "breathing".

Unpolished rounded logs

Wood is susceptible to the influence of fungus, mold, woodworms, belongs to the group of highly combustible materials, sometimes the logs of an already built log house can "twist", they bend, crack. We will tell you how to deal with these problems in this article.

What is a rounded log

There are 2 subspecies of rounded logs:

The downside is that under the influence of precipitation and sunlight, the log darkens over time, but not completely, but only a few centimeters inward. To serve at home or a bath from such trunks will be long.

Most often, the raw material for cylindering is conifers trees - pine, spruce, cedar. A log that is ready for use is obtained after the following processing steps:

The resulting rounded log is used for the construction of low-rise houses, baths, cottages, verandas, bars and other buildings for commercial, economic and residential purposes.

Processing facilities

Various means for processing logs made of rounded logs

The instructions for the formulations always indicate the period when the drug can and cannot be used.

So, the processing of rounded logs with transport antiseptics begins immediately after the completion of the processes of profiling and facing. The application of the rest of the compositions - only after the assembly of the log house into a single structure and the sealing of the seams.

Steps for processing and applying protective equipment

Any means of protection are applied to wood with a moisture content of no more than 25%. The level is measured with a special device - a moisture meter (contact or non-contact).

To process a log house made of rounded logs, you need following tools and units:

Grinding is done with a special attachment

All this will come in handy for DIY processing at home. And in production conditions, another method is used - autoclaving. With the help of a special autoclave apparatus, the log is treated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds. For a log house from such blanks, mold and open fire will not be terrible for more than 10 years.

The inconvenience of this method is that sometimes the logs need to be adjusted and cut off excess, cuts. In this case, the protected layer is removed, that is, the impregnation will need to be restored.

Before starting work, you need to prepare:

Total processing of a log house from rounded logs begins only after full cycle drying, that is, at least a year after the construction of the house under a temporary roof. This is due to the fact that excess moisture in the building material makes it difficult for the composition to penetrate, and the effectiveness of its application is minimized.

Important! While the tree is damp, the shrinkage of the house will occur constantly, cracks, dents, irregularities may appear on perfectly even trunks, which subsequently need grinding and sealing with special sealants or compositions based on epoxy resin, acrylic, silicone.

Processed corner of a log house

Rounded log problems and how to deal with them

1. Cracks appeared on the finished log house.

During the shrinkage of the log, cracks may appear on it. As a rule, craftsmen prefer not to touch them to the last, since it is through them that the greatest amount of moisture comes out. After general processing log house defects are filled with a mixture of sawdust + epoxy resin or special sealants (Perma-Chink, REMMERS Acryl-100).

Not all owners wooden house know that the processing of a log house from a rounded log has its own algorithm, which cannot be deviated from. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the wood for better impregnation and careful action of chemicals, since not all compounds are gentle, and expensive construction raw materials cannot be exposed to aggressive action. How to protect your home correctly without damaging wood is described in this article.

Why impregnate the material

The question is natural for a person ignorant of wooden housing construction, because in the factory the lumber has already been processed. However, a one-time antibacterial attack cannot protect it to its full depth, even if wooden building materials have been soaked in baths of solutions. It's all about the structure of natural material.

The trunk is still practically a living tree. It will not lose the ability to update very soon: moisture evaporates from the finished timber slowly and during long operation. Therefore, in order to preserve as long as possible fresh look buildings, it will have to be processed regularly. What does it give:

Of course, it is advisable to entrust the care of your own building to professionals, but their services are quite expensive. Self-processing of a rounded log house is quite simple and understandable even to those who are not knowledgeable in this matter.

Stages of work

The industry has created a ton of chemicals that can be used both outside and inside the home. Synthetic compounds actively resist the main problems, in addition, they can be used against fire - the main enemy of wood.

You should not use "three in one" products: they do not give the desired effect, since when mixing the components, a substance is obtained that weaken the active actions of the components or even useless in the form of an antiseptic.

Deciding how to process a rounded log is now quite difficult: the products are diverse both in price and quality. It is important to remember that internal surfaces should not be covered with volatile chemicals... When warmth comes into the house, they will soar throughout the space, settling in the lungs of the household. They are hazardous to health, and you cannot use products that are not marked with the appropriate inscription.

A correct lumber processing process has the following steps:

Preparation of all surfaces. If the work is carried out at a new facility, then polishing and painting of a log house from cylindering inside and outside is not required. It is enough only to impregnate with antibacterial compounds and apply glazing masses. They will not hide the wood pattern, but at the same time they will not let moisture inside.

After several years, natural precipitation and phenomena can cause beautiful surface rough. Then, before applying any composition, you will have to work hard grinder: After which the paints and chemical impregnations will lay down evenly. Before cleaning the wood, all protruding parts of the log house - window sills, ebbs, doors, shutters - are removed. Using a vacuum cleaner, you can easily remove the smallest sanding dust.

We need to get a tool. How to handle a house made of rounded logs? These are hard brushes, a spray gun, all kinds of sprayers. Protective clothing must also be prepared.
The application of the compositions should take place in the following order: antiseptic, protection against moisture penetration, fire retardant. Why is it so?
Firstly, the processes contributing to the appearance of mold can begin in the wood itself, if there were prerequisites for this before the purchase of a log house or construction raw materials. All units of building materials should be scrupulously reviewed for defects.
Secondly, in order to exclude the accumulation of moisture, a barrier is applied immediately after the antiseptic. This will allow moisture inside to evaporate through the ends and not accumulate. Thirdly, a fire is most often due to a human factor, so this layer will be the last, and an accidental cigarette butt or spark from the fuel unit cannot cause harm.

It is imperative to soak the caulking gaps abundantly, after removing the old material. If the caulking was made recently, then it is soaked carefully so that in the future the question does not arise: the better to insulate log cabins from rounded logs - high-quality seams can save the owner from this process.

Particular attention should be paid to the end part of the log cabins, they cannot be covered with a film composition, since wood is supposed to breathe. Slaked lime mixed with a weak solution of manganese is best suited for processing here. In this case, the stem capillaries will not be clogged.

All formulations must be given a period for complete absorption and drying. Only then can one proceed to the next layer of chemistry.

Decorating. Do I need to treat the rounded log with an antiseptic or paint? The answer to the first part of the question is, of course, unequivocal - necessarily. As for the paint, there is no point in hiding the natural beauty of wood.

However, without the proper polymer film, there is a risk of losing the smoothness of the logs. Therefore, varnish or glazing compositions are used. They will accentuate the wood grain and make the surface impervious to damage. An important condition: such compositions must be labeled as frost-resistant, otherwise the polymer will crack in the cold, and there will be no protection, however, like beauty.

Before applying the colored composition, the construction object is processed especially carefully: cracks are sanded, into which a paste of chips with wood glue is placed. This measure is good for small defects. Large gaps are caulked.

The paint is applied in several layers: the first layer will be absorbed after sanding. If desired, the finished surface can be varnished. This gives the milled material a second life.

Suburban construction is developing more and more intensively today. This is due to the fact that a large number of residents of megacities have an irresistible desire to get closer to nature. The most common form of suburban real estate is a wooden house. Living in it has many advantages that brick buildings lack.

Log houses are an environmentally friendly type of buildings, they have a unique internal microclimate, provide comfort and have originality. Today more attention is paid to suburban construction, therefore, probably, there is no homeowner who would not think about protecting the walls of the log house.

Varieties of antiseptics

Processing a log house from the outside usually involves the application of antiseptic compounds. By purpose, these mixtures can be divided into:

fire retardant;
bioprotective;
whitening.

The first type allows you to eliminate the flammability of wood. As for bio-protective mixtures, they fight not only the possibility of flame spread, but also the development of fungus, mold, and microorganisms.

Whitening formulations are restorative. They are used to return a darkened timber original appearance... Additional types of antiseptic drugs are complex formulations and mixtures of a protective type. The former allow you to protect the material from several harmful effects, for example, fire and fungus.

Protective varnishes form on the surface thin film, which creates a barrier to sunlight, moisture and excludes paint fading. Mixtures can be glossy, matte or semi-glossy.

Antiseptic treatments can also be classified according to the mode of penetration. But according to the composition of the coating, they are divided into those that have the following bases:

water;
oil;
synthetic.

When choosing a composition, its environmental friendliness should be taken into account. The walls will be able to breathe if covered with mixtures of natural oil or water.

Features of the choice of antiseptic

Processing a log house after installation involves the application of an antiseptic composition. When visiting a store, you need to pay attention to the degree and class of protection, it can be high, medium or low. Professional formulations have a high degree of protection, for processing outside it is better to take them, but for internal application those that belong to the low and middle classes are suitable.

For the treatment of walls from the inside, it is also important to pay attention to the toxicity of the antiseptic. It must be safe for humans and animals. Depending on what the operating conditions will be, it is necessary to take into account the resistance to impacts of the type:

ultraviolet light;
mechanical damage;
temperature drops;
precipitation.

Taking into account how often you plan to update the protection, you need to make a choice on the effective period. The coatings are ready to last from 1 to 15 years. They can have different penetration depths and consumption for square meter... The processing of a log house inside should also be selected taking into account temperature regime exploitation. This is true if the application is carried out on the walls of the steam room.

Inexpensive and effective antiseptic formulations

If you want to choose a complex drug, you should pay attention to Senezh Ognebio and Phenilax. The first is a deep penetration impregnation that protects the material from fire, decay and mold. A thick protective layer is created on the surface, but the composition also penetrates inside. You can buy Senezh Ognebio for 100 rubles. per liter.

Log processing can be carried out with the help of "Fenilax". This formulation provides medium penetration. After work, the material will be protected from mold, rot and fire. "Phenilax" is not fond of tree beetles. You can buy the product for 90 rubles. per liter.

You can process the log house using Neomid 440 or Aquatex. The first composition is water-based and has fungicidal and antiseptic properties. It is resistant to external influences, and its service life reaches 15 years. You can buy an antiseptic for 90 rubles. per liter.

"Aquatex" is an antiseptic with decorative protective properties. This tool best suited for masking inexpensive pine and creating imitation oak. You can buy this antiseptic for 120 rubles. per liter. Among fire retardant impregnations, the most inexpensive and effective is "Neomid 530". The composition is made on the basis of water, therefore it can be used not only outside, but also inside the house.

Choosing a product on synthetic base, you should pay attention to "KSD", which is made on the basis of flame retardants, biocidal elements and antiseptic substances. The mixture costs 70 rubles. per liter.

If you have to process a log house, then you can use folk methods. Among them, copper sulfate and chlorhexidine should be distinguished. The first substance is poison, while the second is a strong oxidizing agent. These reagents can be purchased at hardware stores, but personal protective equipment, such as thick rubber gloves and a respirator, should be used when handling them.

Alternative solutions in the field of traditional methods - the use of sulfur

The most popular processing methods for a wooden house are:

chlorhexidine;
copper sulfate;
sulfur.

The latter is used at the rate of 200 g per 100 m 3 of the room. Such processing is usually used in the basement of the house, underground and basements. The sulfur is put into a ceramic container and ignited. Such processing can be dangerous, because the reaction is accompanied by the formation of sulfur dioxide, which is released from the reagent during combustion.

The substance kills microorganisms, but if you do not leave the room in time, it can kill a person. The room is tightly closed and left for 9 hours. Animals must not get inside. After that, it is brought into the room. This must be done so that the substance absorbs the poisonous gas and draws out excess moisture. The lime is placed in a large bowl or box.

Use of copper sulfate

Log treatment can be done with copper sulfate, which can be purchased at a hardware store. The product is blue crystals and resembles potassium permanganate. Copper sulfate is a poison, so it is better to process it from the outside or soak only floor beams.

It is necessary to prepare a solution using 1 part copper sulfate and 10 parts of water, which is heated to 60 ° C. Log processing is carried out using a spray gun or brush. Usually, the material is soaked even before construction, for this the timber is immersed in the composition for 3 hours, and then it is well dried. Vitriol also acts as a corrosive reagent, so areas with metal fasteners should not be processed.

Chlorhexidine antiseptic treatment

Treating a log house with an antiseptic may involve the use of chlorhexidine, which is the same bleach. The powder is mixed in a volume of 1 part with two parts of water and the same amount of quicklime. 1 part ash is added to the ingredients.

The components are mixed, and the resulting mixture is applied to the surface with a brush or veneer. It is important to observe precautions, as the composition can cause skin burns. The master should wear latex gloves... Traditional methods are not safe, so it is better to use ready-made compositions factory production.

End machining

Immediately after the completion of construction, it is necessary to process the ends of the log house. If the trunks themselves retain their natural functions until they are completely dry before processing, then the ends need immediate protection. When impregnating, it is necessary to pay attention to the order of the procedure and take into account that the timber must retain the ability to breathe and evaporate moisture. This indicates that when working on the external parts of the structure, internal processing should not be carried out.

Training

To protect the ends, it is necessary to give the timber a smooth surface using a chainsaw. In the next step, the base is sanded in the cut area. This method allows you to clean the timber from stains, irregularities and mold.

Before painting, darkened wood must be removed. Means for processing the ends of a log house can be impregnants and antiseptics. Substances protect against fungus, mold and insects. At the end, it is necessary to create up to three layers of protection, between which a 12-hour break is maintained for drying.

Use of sealant and machine oil

You can also apply a sealant that is water-repellent. This will eliminate rotting of the logs and allow the formation of protective film... The material is applied in 2 layers. Processing of the bathhouse in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ends can also be carried out with the help of machine oil, which is the most economical option... 12 hours after the first layer is applied, the second is applied.

If you want to use paint, then it must first be diluted with a solvent. The timber is sealed with it from moisture and insects. This technology eliminates the formation of fungus. Sometimes home craftsmen also use lime. This method is the most popular and oldest. It protects the material from insects and moisture.

Finally

Internal and external processing of a log house is not too different. Even before building a house, the material can be treated with antiseptics. After installation, saturate the technical side with lock connection will not work. However, if the installation has already been carried out, then you can use a spray gun or spray gun.

The work is carried out in the warm season, when the thermometer has not yet dropped below -5 ° C. When construction is completed in winter, a composition is selected with the appropriate application temperature.

At the first stage, the surface is prepared, and at the second, the ends are covered, then you can proceed to impregnating the walls. Internal processing is carried out not only in the area of \u200b\u200bwalls, but also floor slabs, as well as the ceiling. Do not forget about the processing of the subfloor.