Hoya: home care and reproduction. Wax ivy (hoya): characteristics of species and secrets of home care

Beautiful wax stars of flowers with a delicate aroma adorn the long, curly shoots with fleshy green leaves. This is a hoya, caring for it at home is easy. The article describes the secrets of growing and varieties of flowers, the features of watering for abundant flowering and other tricks that will help you grow a beautiful, abundantly flowering plant.

The length of the stem of this climbing plant can reach ten meters. Hoya is decorative due to long flowering. Young shoots stand out against the background of green foliage with a brown-purple color. Flowers are collected in large umbrellas and smell good. In most varieties, the oval leaves are quite large - up to 8 cm long and up to 5 cm wide. But there are also miniature plants, for example, hoya bella.

More than 50 species of this flower are found in nature. Some of them are grown in greenhouses and homes.

The most famous varieties of hoya are:

fleshy;
beautiful;
imperial;
variegated;
linear.

Fleshy hoya waxy ivy is a picky, curly succulent with dense leaves that blooms continuously from early spring to late autumn. This species has many varieties, among which there are plants with multi-colored leaves - green with a cream-colored border or with a yellowish center.

Basic requirements for growing

Hoya is a light-loving plant. When grown indoors, it blooms profusely only on southern windows. However, on sunny, summer days, the plant must be shaded so that no burns remain on the leaves.

The more light there is for the hoya, the faster it will bloom. If buds have appeared, it cannot be rearranged.

She does not like drafts, changes in air temperature and strong cooling, at a room temperature below + 10 ° C she can die.

Hoya loves light, well-drained, fertile soil.
For normal growth of shoots and flowering, regular fertilizing is necessary.
The soil in the pot should be moist and dry before watering again.
The hoya will benefit from a warm shower and regular spraying.

Special requirements include the selectivity of some plant species to soil acidity and air temperature. There are hoyi that cannot grow normally if the room is less than + 20 ° C.

Home care

When choosing a plant for a room, you must take into account its size. Some hoyis grow quite large - these are real woody vines. Other types are compact and will not take up much space on the windowsill.

The plant can be grown as an ampel, hanging the pot high, or set up a support by twisting the stem around it. The younger the plant, the more flexible its stems, with age, the shoots become woody, and can break when tied to a support.

There are no special problems in caring for hoya. All efforts pay off with excellent flowering, which, if properly maintained, can be quite long-lasting.

Features of the content depending on the season

Ivy can bloom in winter. If the florist wants to enjoy such a spectacle, then the plant begins to be prepared in September. The pot is placed in a bright, cool place and watering is reduced. It is best to place the flower on the eastern windowsill. In December and January, the flower is almost not watered - drought stimulates flowering. During this period, the room temperature should be about 15 ° C.

Some species do not like cool air, for example, hoya multiflora sheds flowers and leaves when the temperature drops below +20 ° C.

Usually, the hoya uses winter as a resting time, it benefits from reduced watering and no fertilization. It most often blooms in spring and summer. During this period, the plant requires regular watering, spraying, feeding and good lighting.

Hoya watering

In summer and spring, during the intensive growth of hoya, it is abundantly watered and sprayed. In autumn and winter, spraying is stopped, and watering is reduced. Water the plant as the earthen coma dries up with settled, warm water.

To stimulate flowering, watering in summer is done by soaking in warm water for 1-2 hours. To do this, put the flower pot in a large plastic bucket. Hoya is poured from the shower with water at a temperature of about 30–35 ° C. When the water in the bucket reaches the top of the pot, barely covering the ground, turn off the tap. After 1 hour, the plant can be taken out of the bucket and put in its original place in the room.

Soil composition and pot selection

Hoya doesn't like large flower pots. In small ones, on the contrary, it grows very quickly. In its natural habitat, this plant leads an epiphytic lifestyle, settles in the crown of large trees or on rocks, where there is very little nutrient medium. Therefore, when choosing a pot, you need to give preference to small containers, with soil that allows water and air to pass through well.

The material from which the pot is made does not really matter, plastic, clay or wood will do. The planting substrate must be loose. A mixture of peat, perlite, coconut fiber and tree bark is prepared independently. For nutritional value, add a little leaf humus. Most hoya species prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. But there are varieties that require a high content of limestone, for example, H. curtsii, H. serpens.

Fertilization

The fertile substrate in which the plant is planted is already a good fertilizer. But after a year of cultivation, hoya begins to experience a lack of basic nutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. This can be expressed externally by a slowdown in growth and a change in the appearance of the leaves.

With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn pale green or yellow, and then fall off.
Lack of phosphorus is expressed by reddening of the veins of the leaf or its edges and tops.
With a deficiency of potassium, the edges of the leaf plate dry out and curl.

In the warm season, hoya is fed during watering once every two weeks with a complex fertilizer for flowering indoor plants... The ratio of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in it should be the same. If you notice signs of a lack of some element, you can find top dressing with its predominance.

Planting and transplanting

Hoya does not like frequent transplants. If the need arises, you can make a transplant once every 2 or 3 years.

Since this plant easily forms aerial roots, planting it can be very simple. A long shoot of an adult plant is placed in a pot of soil and pinned down with wire. When the shoot gives roots, it is cut off from the mother plant.

When transplanted into fresh soil, new pot should not be much larger than the previous one, the hoya will not bloom until its roots fill the entire space of the earthen coma.

Be sure to put a good drain on the bottom of the pot to keep the water out after watering. The land should be well-drained and fertile, you can use a mixture for succulents.

Breeding features

The plant is propagated by seeds, layering or cuttings. For grafting, twigs of the last year are used, on which there should be 2 or 3 nodes. You can root them in water or substrate. Hoya kerry, with heart-shaped leaves, rooted well with leafy cuttings.

Several branches are planted in one pot so that during flowering the plant looks more decorative.

From cut cuttings, two lower leaves are cut off.
Washed under running water to rinse off any sticky juice.
They are dipped in Kornevin powder.
Then they are planted in perlite or vermiculite - a moisture-absorbing substrate in which the cuttings quickly sprout.
After planting, arrange a mini-greenhouse, covering a flower pot with seedlings plastic bag... They are placed in a bright and warm place.

The first roots will appear within two or three weeks. If you plant a plant in a clear plastic cup, you can see it. Rooted hoya is transplanted into a small pot.

Plant diseases and pests

Hoya suffer from insect pests:

scabbards;
whitefly;
mealybug;

When the first signs of damage are found, the plant is treated with an insecticide. If a spider mite has settled on the leaves, treatment with acaricide or infusion of garlic will help.

Why does the hoya not bloom, the leaves turn yellow?

If hoya is grown incorrectly, difficulties may arise - the leaves will turn yellow, curl and fall off.

There are several reasons for this:

cold air in the room;
excess sun;
lack of moisture or excessive watering;
dry air environment;
poor drainage;
cold water for irrigation;
lack of nitrogen in the soil.

Some growers, in order to achieve the setting of inflorescences, several times in the spring or early summer place a pot of hoya in warm water with a temperature of 30–35 ° C and water it 2 or 3 times a week with settled warm water.

For flowering, the plant needs the following conditions:

good lighting;
age 2-3 years;
cramped pot;
shoots at least 30 cm long;
feeding with phosphorus fertilizers.

V winter time cut watering and keep the hoya in a bright place with a temperature of 15 ° C. It blooms on old peduncles, so they cannot be cut off. When the plant blooms, they stop fertilizing it and try not to turn the pot so that the buds do not fall off.

Many amateur flower growers prefer liana-like plants. They are perfect for indoor gardening and, with their decorativeness, give the room in which they are located, a unique coziness. In addition, all vines are representatives of the tropics, and this suggests that the flowers of these plants should be bright and very large.

There are many representatives of these plant species suitable for breeding at home. But, probably, the most popular indoor vine is the hoya. If it grows indoors, it becomes its main highlight, delighting both the owners and guests with its splendor. Everyone, without exception, falls in love with her. V last years you can see the magnificent hoya flower in almost every apartment where there are indoor plants.

What is this plant

To learn more about this vine, you should consider the features of its growth and development, as well as the intricacies of caring for it. The hoya flower owes its name to the former gardener of the Duke of Northumberland, the Englishman Thomas Hoya. This happened due to the fact that the botanist Robert Brown, who first described this type of ampelous lianas, gave this plant the name of his friend.

Hoya is a typical representative of the genus of climbing evergreens with a creeping shoot. Its leaves are leathery, with moderately pronounced fleshiness, whole, ovoid-oval in shape. The inflorescences are located in the axils, and the flowers are collected in umbrellas.

Hoya is a very unusual ornamental plant that should be grown in warm rooms, where the air can be dry, as this vine tolerates it well. The only thing that is required for its smooth development is the presence of supports that can have different kind: posts made of moss, trellises or trellises, all kinds of arcs. They are necessary in order to be able to tie liana-like hoya shoots to them.

The variety of species of this vine

One of the representatives is the majestic hoya. This plant is native to the forests located in the Malacca Peninsula. It is a climbing shrub with pubescent shoots. This representative of the hoya plant has quite large leaves, up to 20 cm long, oval-oblong in shape with a slight sharpening at the apex. They are smooth and leathery to the touch. Flowers are collected in 6-10 pieces in hanging umbrellas. The flowers are dark red, with a greenish-yellow hue on the outside. They are located on short and pubescent pedicels.

Another representative is the multiflorous hoya. She also comes from the forests of Malaysia. According to all external data, it is similar to the majestic hoya, the only difference is that the blossoming magnificent flowers are yellow in color. Considering the representatives of this species, one cannot but say a few words about the fleshy hoya. It comes from Australia, where it grows in forests located on rocks. The length of these vines can reach 6 m. The leaves on the pubescent stems are very fleshy, and the flowers are white or flesh-colored.

How to find the perfect hoya spot?

This indoor vine can be called enough unpretentious plant but if she doesn't like the place she lives, she may not bloom. Therefore, the closest attention should be paid to the location of the flower in an apartment or office. When choosing a place of her future residence, it is necessary to pay attention to such factors as:

good lighting, because only in such conditions will the trouble-free formation of buds occur;
lack of direct sunlight, since with excessive ultraviolet radiation, the plant turns yellow, and the buds begin to fall off.

Hoya prefers home care so that, first of all, the ideal place of permanent residence is chosen for her. They can be both east and west windows. This is necessary for better development and timely flowering. In the event that this option turns out to be unrealistic for the florist (all windows in the apartment face north or south), fluorescent lamps should be used. Such illumination is also necessary in winter, even in the case of the ideal location of the plant.

Features of caring for a magnificent vine

Despite the fact that liana-like plants are quite unpretentious, hoya home care, albeit small, still requires. To organize it correctly, you should take into account some subtleties.

During active growth (spring and summer), the most optimal temperature will be in the range of 20-25 degrees. In winter, 10-15 degrees is quite enough.
Hoya lighting should be bright enough, but direct sunlight should be avoided during summer. It is best to place this flower against the wall in the southern room. It will braid the entire wall like an ampelous plant. But it should be borne in mind that, having determined the place of residence once, it is not recommended to change its location. If the flower is rearranged, it will not only lose all the buds, but even shed the leaves. This is a plant that prefers permanent places, therefore it is completely unsuitable for summer landscaping of loggias, balconies or terraces.
Humidity is not essential for hoya, but it is advisable to spray it in the summer.
Watering should be moderate and done only after the soil is dry enough. In winter, it is reduced to lean. This plant tolerates a lack of moisture quite well. In addition, this factor greatly influences good flowering.
The soil under this vine should be fertilized by introducing the necessary minerals into it at least 2 times a month for the entire growing season. In winter, the plant does not need feeding.

Hoya breeding

There are two methods for the most effective propagation of this ivy. Both of them deserve attention, as they are able to make the amateur grower happy with a magnificent plant.

Hoya propagation in the spring or autumn can be done by cuttings taken from the shoots of the previous year. Each of them must have at least two pairs of leaves and two nodes. Such hoya cuttings will grow new shoots, firstly, much more successfully than long cuttings with multiple nodes, and secondly, much faster than if you take a cutting with one node for planting. The cut must be made not under the knot itself, but much lower. This measure of preparation of the cutting for planting is necessary due to the fact that the roots appear only at the internodes. They should be rooted in a peat and sand substrate or in water. Temperature environment during this process should not be lower than 20 degrees. After the cuttings have given roots, they should be planted in pots in several pieces.
Spring cuttings are also a great way to get a new plant. In March, a small part of the shoot is pinned to the ground. For better rooting, it is worth using stimulants designed for root formation.

Features of reproduction of hoya seeds

But the reproduction of hoya by seeds is a rather rare phenomenon, since at home they practically do not ripen. One can be called a lucky one who became the owner of hoya seeds. How to grow ivy out of them in the correct way (hoya means)? For sowing, only well-ripened and dried seeds are taken. The soil must be well permeable. You can add sphagnum moss to it. Seeds are used only for the current ripening year, completely fresh, to increase the percentage of germination.

After the seeds are sown in the ground, the sprouts hatch very quickly and have two leaves on a short stalk. But successful germination does not give any guarantee that full-fledged plants will grow from them. Young vines may well die for one of two reasons: waterlogging or overdrying of the soil. The main conditions necessary for seedlings to grow successfully in adult plant are: optimum humidity, good lighting and warmth.

Seedlings are transplanted into a separate bowl only when they have a good root system and a few leaves. This usually happens three months after sowing the seeds.

Transfer

For a plant like hoya, home care includes proper transplantation. It should be done in the third year. A prerequisite for this procedure is a well-done drainage. The soil for liana-like plants should consist of 1 part of sand, 1 - leafy soil, 1 - peat mixture, 1 - humus and 2 - sod. You can add a small amount of charcoal to it.

Crown formation

For a plant such as hoya, home care also implies the mandatory formation of a crown. In order for the vine to be branched, it should be pinched after the 4th leaf is formed. If the shoots have grown very long, they are cut off. This promotes very good and intense flowering. The stems of the plant must be fixed with threads on the wall or window. You can also use a ring made of wire for this purpose, the ends of which are fixed in a pot.

Hoya's problems and diseases

This vine, if properly cared for, produces gorgeous flowers with an unforgettable scent. But if time passes, and the inflorescences are in no hurry to appear, it is worth considering whether the plant is being cared for correctly. In particular, you should pay attention to such factors as the location of the flower, feeding and watering. A nuance will certainly be found that will answer the question of why the hoya does not bloom in your house.

In order for the home hoya to delight the grower with its splendor and not bring any problems, you should learn some of the secrets that are characteristic of this flower.

For long-term flowering, winter light and temperature conditions must be maintained.
In order to avoid dropping the buds, do not touch the ivy during its flowering.
Faded inflorescences are not cut off due to the fact that they are already on next year buds will form.
The plant does not tolerate both frequent transplanting and spraying during flowering.

If you know and observe these small secrets, then the hoya can give at least 10 flowers per inflorescence.

Should you believe the superstitions associated with the hoe?

Basically, only in offices can you find such a wonderful plant as hoya. The indoor version of its cultivation scares many with superstitions associated with this ivy. There has long been a legend among people that wax ivy is able to survive from the house of males (husband, adult sons). But there are also such, also unconfirmed facts that hoya can pacify envy and relieve the feeling of resentment. Many consider it a plant family happiness and are advised to grow in the bedroom. To be sure of the veracity of this information, it is worth planting a hoya and see what happens.

Very important notes

When growing hoya at home, the following factors must be considered:

the strong smell that the flowers of this plant emit can cause headaches;
hoya leaves fade and curl due to the bright sun or low temperatures;
in the event that the air at home is very dry and hot, this plant may begin leaf fall;
in a plant such as hoya, flowering depends on moisture, therefore, so that it does not fall off flower buds, it should always be controlled;
the air should not be allowed to be very dry and hot.

Vine plants look organically in any interior due to their plasticity and versatility. They can be planted in regular pots, hanging planters, to form "green walls", interesting shapes. Hoya also has an "additional bonus" - very graceful star-shaped flowers of bright shades, effectively contrasting with dark leaves. Caring for a plant at home is within the power of even those who do not have much experience in this area.

Hoya: appearance and other characteristic features

Hoya, also known by the nickname "wax ivy", is a genus of evergreen vines belonging to the Apocynaceae family. Most of its nearly three hundred representatives can be found in Southeast Asia, India, China, on the islands dividing the Indian and Pacific Ocean... Some hoyis look like compact bushes, but this configuration is relatively rare.

The first hoya was discovered in 1770 by the scientists Solender and Banks, traveling as part of the expedition of James Cook. The name of the plant was given by the Scottish physicist Robert Brown, the creator of the theory of Brownian motion. Thus, he immortalized the memory of his friend, Thomas Hoy, who for many years successfully cultivated tropical plants in greenhouses and winter gardens Duke of Northumberland.

Hoya flowers, collected in dense corymbose or spherical inflorescences, look very unusual. They have the shape of regular five-pointed stars with a diameter of 1–2 cm, inside which there is a "crown" - an asterisk of a smaller contrasting shade. The surface of the petals is fleecy, they seem to be carved from velvet. The color gamut is very wide - from cream to dark purple, which appears black from a distance, including various tones of yellow, pink, red, peach and silvery green.

At the same time, more than twenty inflorescences can form on an adult liana. They emit a rich, pleasant aroma, especially at night. The "sweet" smell evokes associations with marshmallows and caramel. Not everyone likes it, sometimes even causing a persistent migraine. Small droplets of a thick translucent substance on the petals are nectar, and not some kind of exotic disease. Each flower lasts 15–20 days.

Many growers are afraid to start hoya at home, knowing about the signs and superstitions associated with ivy. Allegedly, the plant "survives" from the house of men dear to the mistress. Even if you believe in this, the hoya has absolutely nothing to do with ivy, which is part of the Araliev family.

Feng Shui, on the other hand, values hoya very much, considering it a plant that creates a cozy and comfortable environment in the house, settles quarrels and helps spouses forgive each other of grievances. It is recommended to place it in the bedroom. Recently, “green hearts” - hoyi, wrapped around a support of the corresponding shape, have become popular as a gift for Valentine's Day.

The flowering period stretches from May to October, but the rest of the time the hoya also looks pretty. Young shoots have a chocolate-purple hue; as they mature, they become brown-gray and lignified. Leaves are fleshy, hard to the touch, in the form of an ellipse with a pointed tip, opposite. Young ones have a characteristic glossy shine, adults - matte. The length of the leaf is 6–8 cm, the width is 3–5 cm. It is for their texture that the plant has received the nickname "wax ivy".

Video: description of hoya

Types popular with amateur flower growers

Until recently, of all the variety, only fleshy and beautiful hoya was grown at home. Now many more species have been "cultivated" and very interesting breeding hybrids have appeared. Most often, the following plants can be found in apartments:

Hoya fleshy (carnosa). Liana 5-6 m long, which needs support for normal development. The leaves are medium-sized, up to 5 cm. Silver-gray strokes and spots on the dark green surface are normal. The flowers are pinkish-white, very fragrant. The plant is unpretentious, tolerates drought, lack of natural light and cool wintering without any problems. It became the basis for many breeding hybrids - Crimson Queen (thin beige or pinkish border on dark green leaves), Tricolor Exotica (bright scarlet flowers, leaves covered with cream and pink stains).
Hoya miniature (compacta). Small, as if slightly crumpled or curled leaves with a faint pattern of a lighter shade. Natural hybrid of fleshy hoya. In turn, it became the "parent" of the Regalis varieties (white border on the leaves lime color, changing its hue to reddish in bright sun), Mauna Loa (dark green leaves with a yellowish spot in the center).
Hoya is beautiful (bella), she is lanceolate. Intensively branching shrub with thin, drooping shoots. Ideal for ampel cultivation. The leaves are lanceolate, small (4–5 cm in length). The inflorescence of 7-9 snow-white flowers with a bright purple crown. The plant is thermophilic (even in winter, the temperature should not fall below 16-18 ° C), it suffers greatly from overflow. It blooms in optimal conditions all year round.
Hoya multiflora. Liana in need of support. Leaves with pronounced veins, about 10 cm long, 3-4 cm wide. Light green spots on them are normal. The flowers are pale yellow, spreading a pleasant citrus aroma, the "rays" of the inner star are strongly curved outward. Each inflorescence has 30-40 buds. Hybrids - Speckles (leaves with light green spots and flowers Ivory), Falling Star (leaves about 15 cm long and petals of a very interesting shape, similar to the tail of a comet).
Hoya is regal, she is also majestic (imperialis). Liana with pubescent shoots, leaf stalks and petals. The length of the leaf is 15–20 cm, the diameter of the dark scarlet flower is 8–10 cm. The "natural" hybrid is the Rausch hoya with bright pink-red petals (this color is known to artists as scarlet). Breeding varieties - Alba (greenish white flowers), Palwan (yellowish red), Borneo Red (bright purple).
Hoya concave or pitted (lacunosa). Well suited for ampel cultivation. Shoots are brick-colored, leaves 5–7 cm long are dark green, diamond-shaped. The edges curl slightly inward. The inflorescence is umbellate. The petals are creamy, the crown is yellowish.
Hoya Kerry (kerrii). Liana with very long lashes. It is recommended that they be directed upwards or wrapped around the support so that they do not overturn the pot. The length of the leaf varies from 5 cm to 15 cm. The flowers are collected in spherical inflorescences of 15-25 pieces. The shade of the petals depends on the quality of the lighting. They can be pinkish, pastel yellow, lemon. An adult plant gives off more nectar, which turns them into raspberry, scarlet, chocolate. Hoya Kerry variegata differs from the parent in cream-colored leaves.
Hoya pale (acuta). Liana with light green leaves 8–10 cm long and 4 cm wide. The petals are pale yellow, the crown is scarlet. The aroma is very pleasant, unobtrusive, lemon-mint. The flowers are small (1 cm in diameter), collected in umbellate inflorescences of 40-50 pieces.
Hoya Shepherd (shepherdii). The leaves are large (12 cm long and 2-3 cm wide), thin, but tough and shiny. The central vein is strongly developed, so they are concave, boat-like. Each inflorescence has 12-15 flowers with a diameter of about 1.5 cm. Petals are snow-white with pinkish tips, an ivory crown.
Hoya fraternal (fraterna). Quite moody, rarely blooms at home. Leaves up to 15 cm long, almost round. The petals are red-pink, the crown is bright yellow.
Hoya long-leaved (longifolia). Epiphytic shrub. The shoots are thin, the leaves are large (up to 18 cm long and 1 cm wide), similar to belts. The flowers are small, creamy, the crown is dark scarlet. The aroma is poorly expressed. The most frost-resistant of its kind.
Hoya Engler (engleriana). It has very small leaves (1.5 cm long and 0.5 cm wide). Flowers 2 cm in diameter, pubescent, collected in inflorescences of 4-5 pieces. The petals are white, the crown is purple-red.
South Hoya (australis), sometimes not quite correctly called Australian. Liana, whose shoots become woody with age. The average length is about 6 m. The leaves are small, 6–8 cm. The buds are collected in inflorescences of 20–25 pieces. The petals are glossy, snow-white with a crimson base, gradually bend back.
Hoya linear (linearis). Long vine with thin shoots and pubescent greenish-gray leaves. The petioles are very short. Petals are yellowish-creamy, fleecy. Flowering occurs in early and mid-autumn. The buds impart a vanilla aroma. Unlike "relatives", he loves abundant watering.
Hoya fluffy (pubicalyx). Stems are long, curly. The leaves are covered with silvery spots and streaks. Flowers 1.5–2 cm in diameter, last about two weeks. The color of the petals ranges from pinkish white to dark purple. There are many breeding hybrids - Red Button, Silver Pink, Chimera, Leenie, Philippines Black and others.

Natural hoyi: varieties in the photo

Hoya fluffy - the basis of many very effective breeding hybrids. - an almost exclusive sight Hoya Shepherd's petals are densely pubescent Hoya pale spreads a very pleasant unobtrusive aroma The shade of the petals of Hoya Kerry varies greatly depending on the lighting Hoya concave stands out against the background of "relatives" interesting shape leaves The petals of the Hoya Rausch are much paler than those of the “parent”. The regal Hoya owes its name to unusually large flowers with petals of a royal purple hue. unusual shape"Stars" Hoya beautiful very well suited for growing by the ampel method Hoya miniature - a very interesting spontaneous mutation Hoya fleshy - one of the first "domesticated" species

Breeding hybrids often look more attractive than "natural" hoyas due to their larger flowers and variegated leaves.

Photo gallery: achievements of breeders

Hoya Philippines Black - very unusual and spectacular flowers Hoya Leenie - very delicate yellow petals Hoya Chimera - dark scarlet petals stand out favorably against the bright green foliage Hoya Silver Pink - crimson petals with a contrasting silvery-white border
Hoya Red Button - one of the many hybrids bred on the basis of the fluffy hoya Hoya Kerry variegata differs from the “parent” in variegated yellow-green leaves. whose honor is named the hybrid Hoya Alba - the petals of a very pure whitish color Hoya flowers Falling Stars look like a comet approaching a star Hoya Speckles - a very elegant and graceful hybrid The color of the spots on the leaves of the Hoya Mauna Loa evokes associations with the moon in Hawaii Hoya Regalis - variegated leaves of a bizarre shape Hoya Tricolor Exotica - a very effective combination of colors Hoya Crimson Queen - a popular hybrid bred on the basis of fleshy hoya

How to create an optimal microclimate for a plant

It is not difficult to create an optimal microclimate for a hoya. It is more difficult to maintain these conditions and immediately respond to the slightest manifestations of plant dissatisfaction by adjusting the temperature, humidity and lighting.

Table: optimal conditions for growing hoya

Factor	Recommendations
Location	In summer - a window facing east or west, in winter - to the south. After the hoya picks up color, you cannot mix and turn the pot - the plant reacts by dropping the buds. He is gradually accustomed to any new conditions. The room is regularly ventilated, but the hoya should not be taken out onto the street.
Lighting	Bright, diffused light shaded from direct sunlight. In winter, it will be necessary to supplement the lighting, extending the daylight hours to 10-12 hours. Plants with dark green monochromatic leaves feel good in partial shade, which cannot be said about variegated varieties.
Temperature	The optimum temperature in summer is 18–25 ° C, in winter - 15 ° C. Prolonged "cold weather" (10Cº and below) provoke leaf fall. The beautiful hoya tolerates frost worst of all, it requires an increased winter temperature (about 18 ° C).
Humidity	It is not a critical indicator, but periodically sprayed hoya develops and blooms better. Make sure that no water gets on the petals and buds. For sanitary purposes, the leaves are wiped weekly with a wet sponge.

Correct hoya transplant

Hoya does not need annual transplants, although it grows rather quickly. Those plants that are cramped in the pot bloom more abundantly. One procedure every 2-3 years is enough. If the grower is more interested in lush greenery, on the contrary, you need to transplant the vine every year, acquiring containers a little "for growth."

It is important that the hoya pot is brand new. Even carefully washed used containers will not work for her. The diameter, based on what is more important, greenery or flowers, increases by 5-7 or 2-3 cm, respectively.

Hoya is undemanding to the quality of the soil. The soil should be light, neutral or slightly acidic, with good aeration:

coarse sand, peat chips, fertile turf, humus (1: 1: 1: 1);
light loam, leaf humus, garden soil (2: 1: 1);
primer for orchids and universal substrate for flowering indoor plants (1: 1).

There is nothing complicated in the transplant itself:

Pour a layer of pebbles or expanded clay 4–5 cm thick on the bottom of the pot. Cover it with fresh substrate, filling about a quarter of the volume. Install a support if necessary. It is undesirable to use bamboo sticks - they often bend and break under the weight of the green mass, sometimes they rot.
Water the plant, after 30-40 minutes remove it from the pot. Try not to destroy the earthen ball.
Transfer it to a new container. Pour the substrate around the edges. Moisturize in moderation. For the first 2-3 weeks, be careful with watering and protect the plant from direct sunlight.

Video: how to transplant hoya

Important nuances of caring for a plant at home

Hoya is deservedly considered a rather unpretentious plant, but care for its different species varies slightly. Therefore, you need to know exactly which variety you own.

Watering

Hoya is a rather large tropical plant, but it categorically does not tolerate excess moisture. Most species need moderate watering (except linear). If the leaves of the hoya are dense, similar to succulent, upper layer the soil should dry out 2-3 cm between procedures. For varieties with thin, hard or pubescent leaves, an earthen lump is constantly kept in a slightly moist state.

Fertilization

Hoya is fed only during the active growing season, from early spring to mid-autumn. Any complex fertilizers for flowering indoor plants or special products for succulents are suitable. It is watered with a nutrient solution twice a month. The composition must necessarily contain nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. After each procedure, it is advisable to loosen the soil in the pot.

Indoor flower pruning

The question of whether pruning hoye is needed, each grower decides for himself. The only rule is - in no case cut off the "hemp" remaining in the place of fallen flowers. Next year, it is on them that new buds are formed.

Vine shoots can be twisted around the supports. When grown by the ampel method, they are periodically shortened to the desired length. It is useful to cut off every third lash by about half in the fall - the flowering will be more abundant.

To stimulate branching, bushy hoyi are pinched annually, removing 2-3 upper growth buds on each shoot. The first time the procedure is carried out after the appearance of the fourth leaf. If a crown of a certain configuration is formed, all the lashes that violate the harmony are cut off.

Bloom

To stimulate flowering, a pot of hoya is dipped in water heated to 30–40 ° C for 2–2.5 hours in late spring and early autumn. Then the substrate must be dried well. If you are “bathing” the entire plant, reduce the procedure time to 25-30 minutes.

Dormant period

Providing the opportunity to "rest" in winter is a guarantee of abundant flowering for the next year. The beginning of the dormant period is evidenced by a slowdown in the growth of the vine. This usually happens when daylight hours are reduced.

In the presence of additional lighting, hoya can do without winter "rest". Otherwise, the plant needs to be provided with coolness (if it is not a beautiful hoya), reduce watering and refuse feeding. The lack of moisture in winter leads to the fact that the vine blooms more abundantly the next year.

Typical mistakes of a novice florist

Hoya can tolerate many mistakes in care, but they negatively affect its decorative effect. It clearly signals that the plant is dissatisfied with something, the absence of flowering. But there are other "signs" that you need to be able to interpret.

Table: how the hoya reacts if it is not properly looked after

What does a plant look like	What is the reason
Lack of flowering.	Warm wintering, excess fertilizers, lack of light, pruning of peduncles.
Yellowing leaves.	High temperature and / or lack of natural light.
Falling buds and leaves.	Moving the pot to another place, a sharp change in conditions of detention, cold drafts.
Drying and falling leaves.	High temperature and / or excessively dry indoor air.
Leaves covered with dry spots.	Sunburn. The plant has suffered from direct sunlight.
Leaves covered with vague light spots.	Lack of light or watering with cold hard water.
Curling, drying leaves	Unsuitable temperature - too low or too high.
Slow growth, pale small leaves.	Lack of top dressing or use of inappropriate fertilizers. The most common cause is nitrogen deficiency.
Blackening bases of shoots.	Low temperature combined with frequent and abundant watering.
Dying shoots.	Stagnant water in the pot.

Common diseases and pests

With proper care and under optimal conditions, the hoya almost never suffers from the attacks of pathogenic fungi and insect pests. Problems begin only when the grower forgets about the plant. Simple preventive measures will help to minimize the risk of infection:

quarantine for newly acquired indoor plants;
inspection of the collection at least once every 5-7 days and immediate isolation of all suspected infected specimens with suspicious symptoms;
regular airing of the room, cleaning the leaves from dust;
using only disinfected soil, clean dishes and tools;
compliance with the rules for caring for the plant, especially with regard to watering.

Table: diseases and pests from which hoya suffers

Disease or pest	How does it manifest	How to fight
A thin layer of whitish bloom on the leaves. Then they lose their tone, turn yellow.	Cut off all affected leaves and shoots. Replace the top layer of soil (3-5 cm). In the early stages of the disease, immerse the plant in a solution of soda ash (5 g per liter of water), potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l), garlic (25 g / l). Repeat 3-4 times with an interval of 2-3 days. In severe cases, use fungicides - Topaz, Skor, Acrobat-MC. It will take 2-3 treatments in 5-7 days.
Root rot	Blackening bases of shoots. The tissues soften, the soil in the pot is covered with a thin layer of mold, and a putrid smell appears.	Cut off any affected shoots. Sprinkle the "wounds" with crushed chalk and activated carbon. Remove the plant from the pot, do the same for the roots. Place them for 2-3 hours in a 1% solution of any fungicide (Abiga-Peak, Oxyhom, Previkur). Transplant the plant by changing soil and pot. Add Glyocladin to the soil. For 2-3 months, water with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Maxim.
Shield	Hard brownish tubercles on leaves, rapidly increasing in volume. The surrounding tissues acquire a reddish-yellow tint.	Lubricate the shells of pests with kerosene, vinegar, machine oil. Remove them after 2-3 hours. Wipe the leaves with a soap and alcohol solution. Wash the plant in a warm shower. Treat the flower and soil with Phosbecid, Metaphos, Aktara. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Aphid	Colonies of small yellow-green or black-brown insects, clinging to the tops of the shoots, the wrong side of young leaves, buds.	Shower the plant. Cut off the most severely damaged shoots. Spray the flower and soil 2-3 times a day with onion, garlic, tobacco, pepper infusions. Any herbs with a strong odor can be used. If there is no effect, apply Biotlin, Iskra-Bio, Konfidor-Maxi at intervals of 3-5 days until the pest disappears completely.
Small whitish butterflies that pop up from the flower at any touch to it.	Hang sticky fly tape and homemade traps next to the pot. Leave the fumigator on for 2-3 days. Vacuum up visible butterflies every early morning. If there is no effect, use Tanrek, Mospilan, Lepidocid. Repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 7-10 days.
Thin cobwebs, entwining leaf stalks and shoots. On the wrong side of the sheet there are small beige dots and blurry light spots.	Wipe the leaves with a cotton pad dipped in alcohol or any alcoholic tincture. After 15–20 minutes, shower the flower. Sprinkle and water the hoya liberally, place in a tightly tied transparent bag for 2-3 days. If there is no effect, treat the plant with acaricides - Fitoverm, Neoron, Apollo, Agravertin. It will take 3-4 procedures with an interval of 5-12 days. It is advisable to change the drugs.
Root nematode	Small spherical swellings on the roots, black on the cut. Leaves turn yellow, then turn red and become covered with black spots.	Give the plant a hot (40–45 ° C) root bath for 35–40 minutes. Pour over with BI-58, Rogor, Lindane solution. If there is no result, transplant the plant by adding Bazamid, Vidat to the new soil.

Photo gallery: diseases and pests affecting hoya

Plants affected by spider mite, treated with special preparations - acaricides

Whitefly is very partial to yellow; this "addiction" is used in making homemade traps Root rot is treatable only in the early stages of the disease It seems that powdery mildew is a harmless plaque that can be easily erased, but this disease greatly depletes the plant

Reproduction methods at home

Hoya reproduces at home both in a vegetative and generative way. The easiest option is to root the stalk.

Cuttings

Hoya stalk is the upper part of a semi-lignified shoot 8–10 cm long. It should have 2-3 growth points and several pairs of leaves. The best time for the procedure - early spring or autumn. Flowering will have to wait four years.

Let the cuttings dry for 2-3 hours outdoors. Sprinkle the base with any powdery root stimulant (Kornevin, Zircon).
Plant them in cups filled with a mixture of peat chips and sand (1: 1). Can be rooted in water. Dissolve one tablet in 200 ml succinic acid and activated carbon. The container is covered with foil, it is pierced with a handle so that only the lowest growth point is in the water. Excess leaves are removed.
Cover the plantings with glass jars or transparent bags. Keep the substrate slightly damp at all times. Provide a temperature of 20-22 ° C and bright light. The roots should appear in 20-25 days.
Once they have formed, transplant the cuttings into mature potting soil. Otherwise, they will become brittle and break easily.
When 3-4 new leaves appear, pinch the hoya to stimulate branching.

Video: reproduction of hoya by cuttings

Rooting stem layers

Hoyi from stem cuttings bloom in the year of planting. Plants older than five years reproduce in this way.

Use a scalpel or razor blade to make a shallow annular cut on one or more shoots between the growth points.
Wrap the place with sphagnum moss, pre-moistened with a solution of any biostimulant (Epin, potassium humate). Cover the top with foil or cling film. Fasten the entire structure securely.
When roots appear, cut off the top of this shoot and transplant the new plant into a separate pot.

Germinating seeds

The method is used infrequently due to the scarcity of seeds, which are almost impossible to obtain at home. They are extremely rare on sale. For breeding hybrids, the method is generally of little use. The varietal characteristics of the “parent” are rarely passed on to the “offspring”.

Dry the seeds after harvesting for 2-3 months.
Plant them in a mixture of finely chopped sphagnum moss and all-purpose potting soil (1: 1).
Provide the same conditions as for sprouting cuttings by raising the temperature to 23–25 ° C. Seedlings will appear in about a week. From this point on, the substrate should be constantly slightly damp, but not wet.
After about three months, when the seedlings have formed 3-4 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into soil for mature plants.

Landing hoya produced by seeds, which can be purchased or independently extracted from the seed pod and dried a little before planting. Since the ability to germinate in seeds is lost over time, when buying, you should pay attention to the timing of seed production. Planting is carried out in specially prepared loose soil. Usually, to prepare land for hoya, they take two parts of leafy land and one part each of humus, peat, sand and sod land.

The container with the planted seeds is covered with glass or placed in plastic bag, creating a greenhouse environment with constant temperature and high humidity. It is necessary to ensure that the earth in the container does not dry out and do not forget about daily ventilation for 10-15 minutes. Seeds usually germinate within a week. After two to three weeks, the glass or bag is removed, but young plants dive in separate pots only after 80-90 days, when the sprouts form a good root system and the flower will release several pairs of leaves.

Location and lighting

Depending on the type of plant, the requirements for the lighting of the room for growing hoya are also different. For example, one of the most common types of hoya - carnose, feels great in a shaded room, although the flowering of a plant in such conditions cannot be expected. But variegated hoyis require good lighting for themselves. Therefore, the windows of the room on the north side will be too dark for this plant. Additional lighting of the plant with fluorescent lamps is required. But on the south side, the hoya will feel more than comfortable.

This plant is able to withstand direct sunlight for a short time, but with prolonged exposure to it, the plant is best shaded. All other sides will do without any restrictions or additional lighting. Hoya tolerates day and night temperature changes well, therefore, in the summer, a pot with a plant can be put on a balcony or terrace, excluding exposure to direct sunlight, and "forget" about it until autumn. Of course, no one cancels watering at the same time. If the plant is often rearranged, then it is unlikely that it will bloom, and if rearranged after the appearance of the buds, then they may completely fall off.

Pot size

The hoya pot requires a small one so that the root system fills all the free space. In this case, the plant will delight you with long and abundant flowering. If you want the plant to gain more green mass, in this case, you should choose a pot that is freer. There are no restrictions on the material of the dishes. In a plastic pot, the plant can be watered a little less often, since moisture will not evaporate through its walls. But the clay pot is more stable, but moisture will evaporate through its porous walls. Watering the plant will be more frequent, and the walls of the pot will be streaked from constantly evaporating moisture. Alternatively, a clay pot covered with a ceramic glaze will work to keep the walls tight. The only prerequisite for a hoya pot is the presence of good drainage holes through which excess moisture will go into the pan, excluding rotting of the root system. From exotic materials, hoyu can be planted in hanging pots from wicker bamboo.

The soil

The composition of the soil for planting this plant may be different, but one requirement must be observed - it must be breathable so that the roots of the hoya breathe. For young plants, they usually take sod and leafy soil, peat, sand and humus in a ratio of 1: 2: 1: 1: 1. For mature plants, you can take a mixture of equal parts peat, perlite, tree bark and coconut fiber. At the bottom of the pot, drainage is mandatory, which is usually used as expanded clay, river pebbles or small pieces of ceramic bricks.

Transfer

Hoya at a young age is transplanted annually, and at a mature age, it is transplanted once every two to three years. When transplanting, all the soil and drainage must be steamed in order to destroy all the larvae and eggs of pests that may be present there.

Fertilizers and feeding

The plant is regularly, once every two weeks, fed with nitrogen-containing and phosphorus-containing fertilizers. Feeding begins at the end of the dormant period. Fertilizers are applied in liquid form after watering the plant so that the root system does not burn.

Watering

It is necessary to water the hoya, observing certain requirements. One of the main requirements for watering is to prevent excess moisture. Since the hoya's root system is breathable, it is therefore planted in loose soil and watered only when the topsoil is dry to the touch. Usually, in hot summer, hoya is watered about three times a week, and in winter, the frequency of watering is halved. Rainwater or thawed water heated to room temperature will be ideal for irrigating the soil. If it is impossible to provide irrigation with such water, they take ordinary tap water, defend it for several days and soften it.

Temperature

Hoya, like a tropical plant, loves warmth. A comfortable temperature for hoya in the spring and summer months is from 22 to 25 degrees. But even higher indicators, up to 35-40 degrees, will not destroy the plant, only it is necessary to maintain a humidity regime corresponding to the temperature. In winter, hoya should be kept at a temperature of at least 18 degrees. True, some varieties of plants can winter at 12-15 degrees, briefly withstanding a decrease to 9-10 degrees. If hoya is not provided with a lower temperature in winter, then later it will not please you with abundant flowering.

Humidity

At a not too high temperature, up to 20 degrees, hoya does not impose special requirements on the humidity regime. When the temperature rises, the plant needs regular spraying. For irrigation, use the same water as for irrigation, rainwater or settled and softened, otherwise the leaves of the plant become stained. For sanitary purposes, to remove dust, once a week, the leaves of the plant must be wiped with a damp cloth, which will once again increase the humidity. A room humidifier can be turned on for several hours a day.

Pruning

Formative pruning of the plant is carried out as the shoots grow. The intensity of flowering is also influenced by the length of the shoots, the longer they are, the poorer the plant blooms. To give it a bushy shape, pinch the hoya shoots after the fourth or fifth leaf.

Pests and diseases

Like any other plant, as a result of improper care, hoya is prone to various kinds of diseases and insect pests. The result of a lack of nutrients is a slowdown or complete cessation of growth, and the foliage of the plant also changes color to a pale green. A flower transplant with soil replacement is required. Spots on the leaves, their twisting and drying indicate an overabundance of light, the influence of direct sunlight. In this case, it is necessary either to shade the plant, or to change its location.

Leaves may also be stained by watering the plant with too cold water.

As a result of too frequent movement or when the hoya is exposed to hot and dry air, it can shed flower buds, as well as the flowers themselves. Will correct the situation compliance with the regime high humidity and setting the plant on permanent place... If the hoya does not bloom long time, which means that she does not have enough lighting or the plant overwintered in too warm conditions. You can try installing additional lighting using fluorescent lamps, as well as arrange a stimulating warm shower.

Mold can also attack the plant. There are several reasons for this: firstly, it can be simply poured, and secondly, the watering was done with too hard water. For treatment, they simply reduce the intensity of irrigation and soften the water. If the soil is covered with mold, then transplanting a plant with a complete replacement of the earth can radically solve the problem. During transplantation, the pot is disinfected with a solution of vinegar and water.

If the foliage is covered with a white bloom, then this indicates the defeat of the plant with powdery mildew. If you do not take measures to eliminate it, then it spreads to the stems and flower buds. To correct the prerequisites for the appearance powdery mildew ensure good ventilation of the room and increase the humidity. When a plant is damaged by a nematode, it gradually dies, in this case, the soil should be thrown away, and the pot should be steamed. Insect pests such as spider mites and scale insects can be controlled as folk methods with the help of various infusions, and with the help of chemicals. When working with insecticides, you need to remember about their toxicity and the need to use personal protective equipment.

Bloom

This plant blooms almost all summer. Hoya flowers have a variety of colors, they can be white, yellow, red and pink. The flowers are collected in inflorescences and hang in neat little baskets. After the end of flowering, the peduncles do not touch, because not the next season new inflorescences are formed on them. The more correct the care, the more abundantly the hoya blooms. It is not recommended to rearrange the plant during the formation of buds, as the buds may crumble.

Reproduction

Hoya propagation is most often done by cuttings. The tops of young, healthy shoots, about 10 cm long, are taken as cuttings. There should be a pair of leaves on the cuttings. Rooting of cuttings can be done in different ways: in water, in wet sand or in specially prepared soil. For rooting in the soil, before planting, the cuttings are placed for a while in a solution with phytohormones, and then planted in the ground. The dishes with the planted cuttings are closed with a glass flask or placed in a plastic bag, and kept at a temperature ranging from 18 to 24 degrees. This gives the greenhouse effect of constant temperature and high humidity, which speeds up the rooting process. After new leaves appear on the stems, they are dived into separate cups or pots. When rooting in water, the process can be monitored visually, and after the roots appear, you can also plant the cuttings in pots.

When propagating by layering, part of the leaves is removed from the lower shoots, the shoot is tilted and sprinkled with earth. The plant is looked after unchanged, and after a while the cuttings take root. A sharp sterilized knife is used to separate the rooted layer from the mother plant and plant it in a separate pot with a special sterilized soil.

Dormant period

During the rest period, the hoya slows down its growth. This is due to a decrease in the temperature of plant maintenance, a reduction in watering and a cessation of fertilization. If you properly organize the maintenance of the plant during the dormant period, the hoya will delight you with abundant flowering in the near future.

Plant toxicity / beneficial properties

Hoya is a plant that is not just a decorative decoration of any garden or windowsill, it also has medicinal properties. This plant has a calming effect on nervous system, accordingly improves mood. For headaches, hoya leaves are applied to the temples with a bandage for 25-30 minutes.

For the treatment of boils and boils, three hoya leaves are crushed, spread on a bandage and tied to the affected area. Change the bandage at least three times a day. When improvement occurs, the dressing is changed less frequently. Purulent acne is treated with a mixture of hoya leaves and oatmeal. Three hoya leaves must be grinded and mixed with oatmeal soaked in 60 ml of water. Apply the ready-made mixture to the sore spot for 10 minutes, then rinse with warm water. The frequency of application of the medicinal mixture is about 3 - 4 times a day. Treatment continues for 14 days.

–ampel plant, belongs to the genus of evergreen shrubs and lianas.

Also called wax ivy.

Hoya grows in the South and South-East Asia, Polynesia and Australia.

Interesting fact!The plant is named by the Scottish scientist Brown in honor of his friend the English gardener Thomas Hoy, who grew plants in the gardens of the Duke of Northumberland.

Optimal growing conditions for hoya

Location and lighting

Hoya prefers good lighting, can easily tolerate direct sunlight. But in the active sun, burns can form on the leaves of the creeper.

Hoya is best placed on the west and east windows. If, nevertheless, the plant is located on the south window, then in the summer period the hoye is better to create diffused light (throw tulle over the window).

Important! Hoya will not be able to bloom on the north windows.

Temperature range: summer-winter

In the summer, the most optimal temperature for hoya, which is grown indoors, will be 25 degrees Celsius, and in winter - at least 16 degrees.

If in winter the temperature exceeds 20 degrees Celsius, then the seasonal flowering of the hoya will be liquid and insignificant.

Hoya - moisture-loving plant... The vine is watered abundantly from March to October, but it needs the most active watering in the summer.

As soon as you notice that the ground is dry, you need to water the plant with settled water. Do not forget to also take care of the hoe: clear the stems and the ground under the plant.

Since November, it is recommended to reduce the watering of the hoya. In winter, the plant does not require much moisture, so it can be watered 4-5 days after the topsoil dries. The temperature of the water for irrigation in winter should be lukewarm.

Did you know? If the hoya is rarely watered, then some of the roots of the plant die off and the growing season begins.

Air humidity

Hoya is not demanding in terms of hydration. But it will not be superfluous to periodically spray the plant in spring and summer.

Important! When spraying hoya, moisture should not get on the flowers.

Top dressing of the soil

During the growing season, hoya needs to be fed every 2-3 weeks. It is recommended to use a complex mineral fertilizer for hoya. In winter, the plant does not need feeding.

You need to know! Before you start fertilizing the hoya, you need to transplant the plant (for young plants, a transplant is needed every year).

You need to replant an adult hoya plant every three years. The plant loves slightly acidic or neutral soil (pH 5.5 to 6). Also, it is recommended to replant a young plant every year (up to 3 years old).

Hoya is unpretentious to the soil. The best substrate for it will be a mix of clay-sod, greenhouse and leafy land (2: 1: 1). The second version of the soil: clay-sod, leafy soil, sand and peat (2: 1: 1: 1).

When choosing a soil, you should also consider the type of hoya. For example, Hoya the Beautiful loves a mixture of humus, leafy earth, peat, sand and a small part of charcoal.

Important! Hoya needs good drainage when planting and transplanting.

Reproduction of hoya at home

Reproduction of wax ivy at home can be done in three ways: hoya from seeds, cuttings and propagation by layering.

If you become the owner hoya seed, then they are planted in the ground, consisting of an earthen mixture and sphagnum moss. Water abundantly and after a week, the seeds begin to germinate. Hoya seedlings should remain moist, but not flooded with water. The seed pot should be kept in a warm and medium-light place.

To protect young hoya sprouts from fungal diseases, sprinkle them with a solution of copper-containing preparations. After about 3 months, when the sprouts release a couple of leaves, transplant them into separate pots.

Interesting fact!Getting hoya seeds at home is almost impossible.

The next breeding method is hoya cuttings... It is considered the most reliable and easy way of plant propagation.

The stalk you want to plant should be about 10 cm long. It should have a couple of leaves and nodules. Hoya cuttings can be rooted in both water and soil.

When rooting in water, you will need a small, foil-wrapped container. Punch holes in the foil for the cuttings. Remember to fill the container with water.

Leave a couple of upper leaves on the cuttings, and treat the lower part with a root growth stimulant. The cuttings, through the holes made in the foil, push into the container.

When rooting cuttings, the most optimal temperature will be 22 degrees Celsius. At the same time, do not forget that constant moisture is important for the cuttings.

To do this, put a bag on the container with cuttings, leaving an air hole. Thus, the humidity will be constant, but the cuttings will not suffocate.

Hoya cuttings begin to sprout after 2 weeks. It is necessary to plant the rooted shoots in the ground in a permanent place, since the cultivation of the roots has weakened the stem, and the cuttings will become even more fragile.

Also, cuttings can be planted directly into the substrate. The soil should be light so that excess water can flow out unhindered.

Before planting, cuttings must be process with root. The pot and substrate must be sterilized, since unformed plants are easily susceptible to various diseases and pests.