The original stool with a wicker seat will be relevant in almost any interior. If you use natural hemp rope, then such a stool will look great in the eco interior, scandinavian style or a loft, while bright synthetic ropes and abstract geometric patterns will help fit the stool into modern style with kitsch accents. We offer you to familiarize yourself with three master classes on how to update an old stool and make an interesting wicker seat with your own hands.
Stool with wicker seat - chevron pattern
Required materials and tools:
- base of the stool (frame with legs);
- rope or cord of two colors;
- furniture nails ( furniture stapler);
- scissor clamp;
- hammer;
- scissors;
- awl;
- optional - varnish or paint to paint the base of the stool.
V this project You can use any cord or rope: linen, paper, jute or synthetic materials. The required rope length depends on the size of the stool frame. V this example the dimensions of the frame were 35 cm by 30 cm, it took about 17 m of cord for the main weaving and about 8 m for the braiding.
⇒ Step 1. Prepare the base of the stool. It could be old stool without sitting. If necessary, stain, paint or varnish the legs. Decide on the direction of weaving. To make the rope easier to pull, secure the end of the rope to the frame with back side furniture nails or a furniture stapler.
⇒ Step 2. Start winding the rope around the opposite slats of the frame. The turns should be as close to each other as possible. Tighten the rope well while winding. After 5-6 turns, take the clamp and firmly press the rope onto the frame. If desired, you can use glue for additional fixing of tension, having previously applied it to the frame. Or fasten the rope in several places with a furniture stapler on the back of the frame. Also secure the end of the main rope securely with a stapler or furniture nails.
⇒ Step 3. You can now weave an extra cord into the main weave. We will weave perpendicular to the main rope, alternating rows. In this example, the pattern is 3 ropes on top, 3 ropes on the bottom. But you can experiment and do 2 by 2, 4 by 4, 2 by 3, etc. Attach the second rope to the frame by pulling the coil out under the free rail.
⇒ Step 4. Pull the rope through the main braid according to the chosen pattern, wrap it on the opposite rail of the frame and pull it tight. Slide the cord left and right if necessary. Then begin to weave the second row, but move the approach one rope forward. This will create a diagonal pattern. Shift each next row by one rope. If it is difficult to weave, help with an awl. At regular intervals, the braid cord can be attached to the frame with a furniture nail or a stapler, fixing the tension.
To reverse the direction of the diagonal lines and create a chevron pattern, move the braid back one rope in the middle of the braid.
Stool with wicker seat - diagonal weave
Since in the previous master class we described in detail each step of the process, further we will consider the main points of weaving.
In this case, a fairly thick synthetic rope used in mountaineering and tourism was used. It is better to use ordinary nails as fixing the rope to the frame. suitable size... The weaving technique is similar to the previous version, only here one rope is used, the pattern of weaving is 2 ropes from above - 2 ropes from the bottom with an offset of one rope forward. There is no reverse motion, so the pattern is not in the form of a chevron, but ordinary diagonals.
Decorative wicker footstool
If in the previous two versions the tension was created by both the main and additional rope, then in this case the main load falls on the main thread, in the braid it plays the role decorative decoration... Thus, the stool is more suitable for use as a footrest or as a high chair for small children with low weight.
All stages of work are similar to the previous methods. It is recommended to tighten the main rope especially well and fix it in between with a stapler or furniture nails. You can make any pattern with the additional rope.
... How to wind corners.... Twisting the reed. Masking the first loop. End cutting rules. Corner connections. How the seat is padded. The last node. Restoration of the wicker seat of the chair. How the reed is inserted into the groove. How to insert the comb.Chair seat wicker: How to lace up the first vertical row. How to tie the ends. How are youfill the lacing of the first horizontal rows. How to lace up the first diagonal row. How to lace up the second vertical rows. How to lace up the second horizontal rows. How to lace up the second diagonal rows. How to extend the edges of the seat.
Consumption of natural cane: for an area of 300 mm2, 80 g of cane is used with a maximum of 72 holes in the braided frame.
Steps of winding artificial cane chair seat
How to wind corners ... If the front horizontal harness of the chair is longer than the back one, it should be marked with a pencil opposite the points where the back harness comes out of the seat posts. Attach one end of the strand (after soaking for 30 seconds) to the inside of the left strap 7.5 cm back from the front corner. Pass the strand first under and then over the front harness. Next, make a loop back under it, and then under and over the left strapping (fig. 1).
Now pull the strand across the opposite side. Make a loop under and over the right strap, then pull the strand back underneath and over the front strap. Then, stud it to the inside of the right harness, across from the point where it is attached to the left harness. Attach the second strand to the inside of the left strap behind the first, then wind it in the same pattern until you fill in the triangular sections between the front corner posts and the pencil marks. To keep the intersecting reed broaches at right angles, you must pull the strand across the seat (Figure 2).
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End of the corner winding cycle ... When the corners are aligned, slightly moisten about 6 m of cane with water, roll it into a flexible spiral, and then attach one end to the left side harness, directly behind the last strand forming an angle of 90 °. Wrap it around the two front corners in the same way as you wound the corner strands, but do not attach it to the right harness, but continue the pattern towards the right back corner and further towards the left rear corner and finally towards the left front corner - like this this will complete the entire cycle. Continue winding until you have used up all the reeds. Then attach a new piece of water-soaked cane with a reef knot, making sure to place the knot on the underside of the seat and on the harness. After 6 rounds, attach the reed to the harness with a spring clip and make sure the strands form rectangular intersections (fig. 3).
Strands are straightened as necessary. Then the winding is continued, stopping from time to time to check the straightness of the corners. When about 10 cm remains until the side straps are fully covered with reeds, you need to insert a cardboard triangle into the pocket between the lower and top layers reed on each side harness. Also continue to weave through the cardboard until there is a gap of about 10 cm in the front and back straps. Next, insert the cardboard triangles into the pockets along the back and front straps. If these straps are lower than the side straps, as is often the case with many chairs, it is likely that additional layers of cardboard will be required to fill the pockets. With the cardboard in all the pockets, trim off the ends of all triangles to provide more space for the weave. Continue stitching until all side ties are complete (fig. 4).
Completion of winding ... In order to fill the remaining space on the front and rear harnesses, the reed must be pulled through the center of the uncovered area above the front harness, up again through the uncovered area and over the rear harness, then up again through the same area to thus form a figure eight. Then also continue to interweave in a figure eight until the front and back straps are full, then use a rubber mallet and a small block of wood to trim the reed layers where they intersect in the center of the seat. Nail the end of the reed to the back harness, then trim off the excess.
You can make sure that all rows of reeds are in the same plane by wiping the seat with a piece of wood. If necessary, insert extra cardboard padding between the strands on the underside of the chair. To do this, use a hard wooden ruler.
Stages of winding natural cane chair seat
Twisting the reed. Take two cane stalks and fold them together (after soaking them in water for 15 minutes) end to end and run a large and forefinger- in this way, you need to squeeze out water and air from them, while you should hear a loud, abrupt sound. These steps must be repeated on subsequent pairs. Using a cord or string, tie one end of the reed harness to the inside of the left harness about half the length. Then twist the reeds together and make the first round (fig. 6).
Masking the first loop ... Wrap the twisted sections over and under the front harness, then over and under the side harness. Pull the free ends towards the center of the front harness (fig. 7).
How to connect a new strand ... Tie a new strand to the free ends of the first pair of half-loops, making sure that the knot is at the center and top of the frame. Twist the strands and wrap them over and under the right harness, then above and below the front harness. Tie the ends with twine to the inside of the right harness through the point where the first strands are tied to the left harness (fig. 8).
End trimming rules ... At this point, continue to weave by repeating the steps above until the front corners are the same width as the back strap. If the strands are too far apart at the intersection of the straps, then gently tap them back using a wooden block and a rubber mallet. If, on the contrary, they are located too close, then they are leveled with a hammer, thus expanding the weave. After that, you need to cut off the excess reeds that protrude under the string on the side straps. When the chair is aligned to a rectangular shape, the two reeds should be folded end to end and one end tied with twine to the left harness. Wrap the reed stalks around the left front corner, and then around the right front corner (the drawing should be continued in the direction of the right rear corner, then in the direction of the left rear corner and, finally, in the direction of the left front corner, in order to complete the entire cycle in this way (Fig. nine).
Corner connections ... After completing the cycle, continue to weave until the strands are finished. Connect the new strands with half loops, positioning the knot so that it falls either on the center of the strapping, or on the corner. If it hits the center of the harness, you need to make sure that the ends of the knot hit the underside of the seat. At corner connection pull the ends up between the last two rows and wrap them around the new strands (fig. 10).
How the seat is padded ... As the side straps are filled, occasionally turn the chair upside down and firmly drive the tufts of damaged cane and cane trimmings into the corner cavities, using a cut-off screwdriver to tighten the packing. This padding will keep the seat from warping and loosening. Along the way, the ends of the knots should be cut off with scissors (fig. 11).
Last node... After the side straps are almost full, the cord that tied the strands to ensure a square shape must be cut off. After that, continue to weave until the side straps are completely filled. Wrap the last row with a screwdriver. To fill in the remaining space on the front and back straps, twist in a figure eight, again wedging the last row with a chisel. Finally, turn the chair upside down and tie the strands (fig. 12).
Surface smoothing (rolling) ... When any leftover excess around the knots has been trimmed, flip the chair over again right side up and flatten the seat with a chisel to compress all the rows tightly enough. At the end of the job, the seat should be comfortable and sturdy, and the two reeds should intersect at right angles.
Restoring a wicker chair seat
How to cut a sample ... After removing any remaining reeds, comb and glue from the groove and sanding it off, glue a piece of paper onto the seat. With a pencil, mark it along the inside of the edge of the groove, then cut the paper along the marked line to make a sample for the reed blank. Glue the sample onto a piece of reed blank, positioning it so that one stack of double strands goes directly to the center from the front to rear straps, and the other stacks parallel to the front straps, and in case the seat is square, or parallel to the line between the front legs if the seat is round. Cut the braid by 2.5 cm more sizes sample. Soak the reed blank in water for 15 minutes in a container in which it can lie in full length, then place it on the seat in the correct position. All strands that run along the seat groove must be removed (fig. 13).
How the reed is inserted into the groove ... Using a rubber mallet and a 10 cm long hardwood wedge, hammer the reed blank into the 50 mm section of the slot in the center of the chair back. Secure this section with a 2.5 cm long hardwood wedge. Then pull the reed as tight as possible towards the front and hammer it into the 50 mm section of the groove in the center of the front. Then reinsert the locking wedge. Continue working along the groove, first on one side and then on the other side, inserting the reeds into the 50 mm wide sections and locking them with wedges until the entire groove is filled in a circle. Sponge the reeds from time to time to keep them pliable enough. To trim the ends of the reeds, use sharp knife or with a hammer and a sharp chisel protruding from the groove, removing all locking wedges as you work (fig. 14).
How to insert the comb ... Take and straighten the ends of a piece of reed comb that is about 2.5 cm longer than the circumference of the groove and soak it in water for 20 minutes. Insert a small amount of glue into the groove on top of the reed. In case the groove outlines the rounded seat, start with the ridge at the backrest, lightly hammering it into the groove to the required depth with a rubber mallet. After the whole cycle is almost complete, fold the comb up, mark the overlap point and cut the comb with a sharp knife. Then, use a rubber mallet to hammer in a wooden nail to firmly insert the ridge into the groove so that it is flush with the frame surface and so that its ends form a butt joint. Then use a sponge to wipe off any excess glue and let the chair seat dry throughout the day.
When the groove goes around the seat with rectangular corners, the comb must be fitted to the groove in the same basic ways, only use the lengths of the comb for each harness and bevel the ends so that they fit together at the corners. Try to make bevels so that they form neat connections.
Use tweezers or fine sandpaper to remove tendrils that have risen up during the soaking process; cut off larger hairs with scissors. Over time, the reed blank darkens, but if desired, it can be painted (Fig. 15).
Chair seat wicker
How to lace up the first vertical row ... If the seat of the chair is square, insert about 10 cm of water-moistened reeds into the central hole on the rear harness or into the central hole that is closer to the left harness, if the number of holes is even. Secure it with a peg or small wedge made of wood or reed.
Find the matching center hole on the front harness and pull a strand of reed through it from top to bottom, with the shiny trim at the top. Pull the strand along the underside of the front harness, then pass it up through the first hole to the right of the hole you just went through. Then pull a strand of hair over the seat and thread it through the corresponding hole in the rear harness. Next, keep lacing the same way When working from the center to the right, just don't lace through the corner holes. The reed should be pulled smoothly, but not too tightly, as it will shrink after drying (fig. 16).
After the strand ends, you need to leave about 10 cm of overhang under the harness and attach this end with a peg. Peg the new strand into the nearest hole, again leaving about 10 cm of overhang under the harness. If there are still unfilled holes on the front harness, use a separate reed strand to connect each unfilled front hole to a selected hole in the side harness so that the strands are parallel and spaced equal. Leave the ends about 10 cm long on the front and side harnesses. Left side lace up the seats in the same way, again leaving the corner holes unfilled.
If you are dealing with a round chair, use the same basic methods, but Special attention note to start with the corresponding holes in the center of the front and back of the chair. When lacing, to fill in curved sides, you need to choose holes that provide parallel lines that are evenly spaced. If there are unfilled “corner” holes on the round seat, this is not a big deal.
How to tie the ends ... Before continuing to weave, turn the chair upside down and tie all the jammed ends - this should be done in a knot around the loops on the underside of the chair. Wipe each end and the adjacent loop with a sponge as carefully as possible, then gently lift the loop with an awl and pass it under the end. The reed should be held with the rough side up, bringing the loop under it in the direction from the inside to the outside edge of the chair strap. After that, pass it through the new loop it formed (from the outside to the inside of the harness) and finally tighten it while holding thumb hands on the knot. Place the knot in the center of the loop so that you can make more than one knot per loop if necessary. Cut the ends to 1 cm (fig. 17).
How to lacing the first horizontal rows. If you are dealing with a square seat, start the horizontal lacing at the back, working between the side holes, but skipping the holes at the rear corners. Peg the end of the reed, lacing from side to side over the vertical strands, holding the reed with the shiny side up. Finish the weave, then go through the last pair of holes, excluding the holes that are located in the front corners (fig. 18-19). Now tie the wedged ends.
When the seat of the chair is round, do the lacing in accordance with the sequence described above. Start lacing from the center of one side to the center of the other, then from these sides towards the back. Then go back to the center and then lace towards the front.
How to lace up the first diagonal row. For a rectangular seat, start lacing in diagonal rows at the right front corner, peg the end of the reed to the first hole to the left of the right front corner hole. Pass the free end down through the first hole on the right side harness, next to this corner, and up through the next hole on the same harness. Now bring the reed back to the front harness, making a pass under each vertical and above each horizontal strand. Pull the free end back to the side rail in the same way. Continue weaving the diagonals until the corner hole has been passed. You can also weave two diagonals into the same hole on one side and skip the hole on the other to keep the rows of reeds straight.
During this step and all subsequent steps that require a very complex weave, often moisten the free end of the reed with water, as well as the lower and upper parts of the weaving seat. For longer passes through the seat, work quietly, smoothly, trim the free end to the desired point and pull out any excess reeds after every four or five stitches so that the reeds do not bend or form a large number of S-bends. Diagonals should be intertwined through the other half of the seat, starting at the hole in the rear harness closest to the left rear corner hole and running the reeds between the left and rear harnesses. After the first diagonals are drawn, two strands of reeds should pass through the holes in the left front and right rear corners. Now the pegged ends need to be tied. When do you deal with the seat round shape, the first diagonals need to be woven following the methods used for weaving the seat (fig. 20).
How to lace up the second vertical rows. Using the same methods already described above, weave a second stack of vertical strands between the front and back straps, placing them slightly to the right of the first vertical strands and stretching them over the entire weaving done so far. Tie the fixed ends in the same way as before (fig. 21).
How to lace up the second horizontal rows. In order to facilitate this step, you will need to use two pegs as a tool to separate each pair of vertical strands. Weave a second set of horizontal strands behind the first horizontal strands, starting with the hole in the right harness closest to the right rear corner hole. It is necessary to follow the same sequence as when lacing the first horizontal rows. As you weave, head under all the first diagonal rows and the first vertical rows, but above the second vertical rows. In the course of work, you need to straighten the rows and try to avoid mistakes. After finishing the weaving of the second laying of the horizontal rows, it is necessary to tie all the fixed ends through the entire seat.
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How to lace up the second diagonal rows. Using an ordinary awl, carefully compact the already intertwined strands in each hole to provide room for additional strands. Then weave the diagonal rows at right angles to the rows already laid. Start at the hole in the front harness (whichever is closest to the left front corner hole) and work under the first diagonal and above the second diagonal to that corner hole. Next, pass the strand down through the hole on the left strap closest to this corner hole, and up through the next hole on the same strap. Now continue to weave between the front and left straps, sweeping the strands over the vertical rows, under the horizontal rows, and alternately above and below the diagonal rows. You can avoid the possibility of confusion at the ends by following one rule: never walk under or over two consecutive diagonal strands.
In order to maintain the symmetry of the pattern, you need to skip holes or double rows in one hole, where required. When you reach the corner hole, stop. Then weave the diagonals across the other half of the seat, starting at the rear harness with the hole closest to the right rear corner hole and interweaving between the right and rear harnesses. Tie the fixed ends (fig. 22).
How to extend the edges of the seat. If the seat is rectangular, cut out a piece of built-up reeds for each harness, making it 5 cm longer than length strapping. Take four built-up reeds, soak them, and also take four strands of intertwined reeds, then peg one end of the rear harness reeds in the hole in the rear right corner, making about 2.5 cm of reed overhang under the seat.
In the next hole on the rear harness, it is necessary to pass the strand to be woven under the harness; tighten it with a loop over the extended reed from the back to the front, and then pass it down through the same hole, while securing the extended reed on the harness. On the underside of the harness, you should tie one end of the weaving and tighten the free end, making sure that the weaving goes at right angles to the extended reeds and that the extended reeds lie quite tightly, stretching out. Fasten the loops in the same way in each hole on the back harness. Insert the extended reed and netting into the left rear corner hole, and then secure them with pegs.
Before starting to build on the left side harness, you will need to insert one end into the left rear corner hole and secure it with pegs. Next, you need to fix the build-up along the left harness, as it was already done on the rear harness. Likewise, complete the front and right straps and insert the last end of the extended reeds into the right rear hole you started with. To keep the ends in place, the sleeve must be cut out of soft wood to fit each corner hole, hammer in the bushings with a hammer flush with the chair frame. Now smooth out the extended stitches and remove any stray hairs. If the seat of the chair is curved, you will need to use a piece of built-up reeds for the entire perimeter of the seat. On chairs with back corners and a curved front, use 2 pieces of built-up reeds - one for the sides and front and the other for the back (fig. 23).
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Surely everyone has a chair, table, or stool that needs updating at home. It seems still durable, you should not throw it away, but the look is already shabby and does not fit the interior design. Have you ever wondered how to update your furniture simply and at the lowest cost? It turns out to answer the question of how to update furniture quite easily using a regular rope.
The easiest way is to wrap with rope, how to use rope in the interior can be, despite the simplicity of the project, you can get exciting results.
To begin with, a simple option is how to update the furniture, update the stool.
All you need is sisal rope and glue. Before you start wrapping the stool, you can paint it with black paint, but this is optional.
To glue the rope, when updating the chair, you need to apply some glue to the front and back of the legs, and wrap the rope around from the bottom of the leg to where the leg joins the seat.
After the legs are ready, you can move on to the seat. It will take three rows of rope to the edge of the seat, and then move from there to the rest upper part seat.
All that remains is for the glue to dry and the new stool will decorate your home.
You can wrap not only a stool with a rope, you can use a rope to create original table.
The materials for updating the table are the same as for the stool, only more rope is needed.
First, sprinkle the legs and table surface with sand, and then wipe with a damp cloth (in a well-ventilated area).
Then using hot glue, start from the bottom of the leg, gradually wrap with a rope, during inner side table.
Do this operation with all the legs, and then move to the table top, starting from the corner.
If you have ever updated old furniture most likely, they noticed: with chairs it turns out most easily and interestingly. A small amount of surface for work + minimum costs for materials + breadth of your own creativity within the boundaries of the idea that you like - these three components of success make updating an old chair with your own hands a fun and easy process.
If we also take into account that high-quality chairs remain strong for a long time, and their "updated versions" can be used in any room (including one by one), you can engage in such creativity at any time when you decide that the old appearance of the chair is for you stopped liking.
However, interesting occupation there may also be an upgrade of a chair that was bought recently, say, for a sale or for some kind of promotion. At the time of purchase, you could be attracted not only by the price, but also by the quality of the chair and its comfortable shape, but the finish (color, upholstery, etc.) could be more interesting.
Do you have such chairs at home? Or those who have been waiting for a decision on their fate for a long time - to stay in an apartment or move to a remote place of residence? Inspect them with a picky eye and select the first object to update, and then find in our new selection master classes suitable guidance. And, of course, do not forget to check the strength of the chair before upgrading, and if necessary, strengthen the frame.
Already have experience updating old chairs? Add new solutions to your ideas box!
Want even more interesting options? Take a look at our previous galleries, links at the end of the post.
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renovation of old chair no. 1 - with sisal:
You will need:
The chair is of a simple shape on a wooden (or metal) frame with a flat back made of bars. Materials and tools: a large roll of sisal rope (about 5m long), cotton velvet (or other thick upholstery fabric), furniture stapler, Moment glue, scissors, pins, hammer, furniture nails, tape measure or centimeter, pencil or fabric marker.
Take off old upholstery seating and material stretched over the back. Armed with a skein of sisal, begin to tightly wrap the structure along the parts that make up straight lines (before connecting to another bar). After about 20-25 cm of the used rope, attach it with glue to the parts of the chair. When finishing winding, secure the ends with knots and glue.
After all the main details are ready, do decorative element on the back of a chair, winding the rope first between the upper and lower parts, then between the side ones.
Using the old upholstery as a template, cut out a new one and attach it to the seat with a furniture stapler and nails.
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renewal of old chair # 2 - using woolen threads:
You will need:
The chair is on a metal frame with a mesh back and a seat (if the frame is the same, but the upholstery is different, see our variation at the end of this master class). Materials and tools: 2 skeins of thick wool different colors(or acrylic), scissors, crochet hook, wooden plank, screws, screwdriver.
Use the net as a canvas, threading wool of different colors through the holes, folded in 2 strands for extra strength, while stacking one color diagonally starting from the top and left. When the line ends, make a loop at the bottom of each row and leave as a fringe.
If the mesh is damaged in selected locations, - reinforce it with the same wool stitches and crochet hook. Cut the plank to fit the back of the seat and secure with screws (for added strength).
Our notes:
- although the photo shows hand work, it is much more convenient to thread the threads with a crochet;
- if your chair on a metal frame does not have a mesh back and a seat, but some other, remove it completely, and instead attach a piece of rattan cloth purchased at the building market (sold at running meters for example at Leroy Merlin), but first make sure the chair is designed to hide the edges of this new upholstery.
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renovation of the old chair No. 3 - decoupage from sewing patterns:
You will need:
The chair is made of wood with a hard seat. Materials and tools: old magazine patterns (for example, from Burda Moden), glue-paste (non-marking on paper, for example, one that is designed for ceiling moldings), brush-maklovitsa, acrylic lacquer, scissors, fabric (of your choice), ready-made biscuit for a chair or filling for stuffing a pillow, zipper (optional), threads, pins, a sewing machine.
Stir the glue in a jar and cover one of the parts of the chair with it (if you have never done decoupage, it is better to start with the legs to try your hand), put a pattern sheet on top and smooth with a soft cloth, making sure that no air bubbles form, but when this did not erase the drawing. Repeat with all elements of the chair. After the glue is completely dry, "seal" the paper by covering all the elements of the chair with acrylic varnish.
Sew a seat cushion with ribbons or a new cover for a factory biscuit, for practicality - with a zipper. Or - buy a biscuit suitable for colors(in pastel colors).
Our note: for such a chair decor, instead of patterns, they are also suitable geographic Maps, kraft bamaga or wallpaper leftovers.
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renewal of old chair # 4 - knitted cuffs:
You will need:
Chair - wooden, country style - the simplest form. Materials and tools: acrylic paint your favorite color, brush, sandpaper, and further options
(1) if you like to knit - bright woolen yarn, knitting needles;
(2) if you want to quickly or are not fond of knitting - an old children's sweater, scissors, remnants of woolen or acrylic threads in a ball, a gypsy needle with a large eye.
Sandpaper the chair frame to prepare the surface, then paint over.
If you chose knitting, knit 4 cuffs on the legs and one on the back with circular knitting needles. If you don’t knit, cut open an old sweater and sew the same cuffs from it: from the main part to the back, from the sleeves to the legs of the chair.
Try on the cuffs on a chair, make sure they do not fall off, if desired, make small assemblies on the legs.
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renewal of old chair # 5 - bright paint and upholstery:
You will need:
Chair - wooden, classical shape with an exquisite shape of the back and beautiful carved legs. Materials and tools: jacquard or chenille for seat upholstery, bright acrylic paint to match the new upholstery, flat brush, sandpaper, furniture stapler, scissors, tape measure.
Prepare old chair to renovation: remove the seat, remove the old upholstery from it (it will become a template for a new one), as well as old varnish or paint (using a solvent), remove roughness with sandpaper, strengthen the frame.
Cover all wooden parts with paint in 2 layers, wait until it is completely dry. Attach to the seat new upholstery pulling it slightly and securing it with a furniture stapler. Connect the frame and seat.
Our notes:
- if the chair has a back covered with fabric, replace it according to the principle similar to working with the seat;
- this project is interesting precisely because of bright color paint and upholstery, giving the old classic chair a truly new look.
To make these versatile chairs with our own hands, we only need a few simple tools and materials. The original copies of these chairs in stores are very expensive. For a little money, you can get such great chairs for your home. To prevent the chair from darkening or changing color over time, you can use Danish furniture oil. At first glance, it may seem to you that you will not cope with this project. But I can assure you that following my instructions, you can easily make this chair with your own hands. Note that these chairs are quite versatile and do not require a lot of space. You can very easily put them in any convenient place. These chairs are bound to become nice addition to your interior.
For the manufacture of our chair we take the following materials:
- Nails (for upholstery)
- Leather straps (however, other material will work instead of leather, such as braid)
- 2x2 "oak bars (these are for the chair legs)
- 1x2 "oak stringer bars (longitudinal beams)
- Wood screws
- Danish oil
You should also have the following tools on hand:
- Drill
- Hammer
- Sandpaper
Now that we already have everything necessary materials and tools, let's get down to making the chair.
1. Measure the height of your feet and mark it on the bars. In the example, I cut off the legs of a 15 ”chair. Next, cut off all the bars that are intended for the longitudinal beams (stringers). To make it work rectangular shape I cut four 18 ”long and four 14” long.
2. Now, you need to drill holes for the screws. For this, pocket holes are best suited with a special drill. Fix the oak blocks on the work table and drill two pocket holes on each of them at the points of connection with each other (see the figure for more details).
3. After that we lay out all the components on a flat surface and with the help of sandpaper we begin to grind the wooden blocks in order to give a smooth surface. Sanding can be done at the end of the assembly, but it is much easier to do it in front of it.
After that, we start assembling the chair. We take the already cut and polished finished legs and attach them with screws, they to each other through the pocket holes, as shown in the figure (see figure).
4. That's practically all, the chair with your own hands is almost ready. We already have a ready-made frame, all that remains is to make a braid from leather belts (see fig. No. 3). I would like to point out that before starting to weave the belts, it is recommended to cover the chair frame with Danish oil (see fig. # 4). If you don’t have such oil, it doesn’t matter, any other varnish intended for furniture is suitable for this purpose. Make sure the varnish is completely dry before weaving the belts.
5. I still have short leather straps from previous projects at home and used them to braid the top of the chair. But you can make these belts yourself from the upholstery, or use seat belts. They can be found at any hardware store. If you do not have ready-made belts on hand, cut them from the solid material into long strips, as long as necessary to weave the top of the chair. Using a hammer and nails, attach the ends of the longer straps to the chair from the underside so that they are not visible. Then attach the ends of the shorter straps and start braiding. When finished, attach all ends to the chair with nails (see pic. # 5, # 6). It should be noted that the thickness of the belt material is of key importance in the final form of the braid. If the straps are thick, the distance between the straps will be wide. If the material of the belts is thin, accordingly, the distance between them will be narrower. It will be nice if the straps are as close to each other as possible.
That's all. Do-it-yourself wicker chair is ready, and can delight you and your loved ones.