1 - electric heater
2 - thermostat
3 - resistor
4 - lamp
5 - power plug
Other electrical circuits for irons will be added later.
Any iron has an indication system that warns that the heating element is in heating mode. Another important part of any iron is the temperature sensor; it is triggered when the temperature of the heating element reaches its maximum. Iron circuits must have a thermal fuse that turns off the heating element if the main regulator does not operate and the temperature of the sole exceeds the temperature at which the thermal fuse operates. The temperature sensor activates (opens or closes) the relay, and the relay, in turn, turns off the supply voltage to the coil. When the temperature drops to a minimum level, the temperature sensor is triggered again - turning on the power supply to the heating element.
The power-on indicator is often gas-discharge lamps (for example, neon lamps). A modern iron works on the same principle, but with some additions. In particular, the thermostat. It is designed to smoothly regulate the voltage that powers the heating element. By adjusting the voltage, we regulate the degree of heat of the coil, and therefore the temperature of the iron. Another addition is a water tank. The reservoir is usually built into the body of the iron. The water heats up turning into steam and at the right moment the steam can be released - this makes the ironing process better. Today, the iron is stuffed with microcontrollers, automatic heating temperature selection, has a stylish and user-friendly design, they already bear little resemblance to those irons that were created back in the 17th century.
How to repair an iron with your own hands. Secrets of disassembly and repair. Nothing is eternal under the Moon. One fine or not so fine day, after plugging in the iron and waiting for 5-10 minutes, you realize that it is not working. So beautiful, comfortable, familiar, and yet it doesn’t work. The solution is to throw it away and buy a new one, not the best the best option. This means it needs repairs. In 80% of cases, the iron can be returned to working condition. At 20% the heating element burns out and in this case it is really cheaper to throw it away and please yourself with a new purchase. Needed for repairs next tool: a set of screwdrivers, a tester or a battery with a light bulb. Before starting repairs, it is necessary to evaluate the external manifestations of the malfunction. 99% of irons have light signaling. This is, as a rule, a red light, signaling the heating process of the heating element (thermoelectric heating element). There are options with two lights - green and red, in this case the green light indicates that the iron is plugged into the outlet and 220 V is applied to it, and the red light indicates the process of turning the heating element on and off. If not one of the lights lights up in all positions of the thermostat, then the first suspicion falls on the serviceability of the cord. The biggest difficulty in repairing modern irons is disassembling them. Designers dictate their own rules and therefore all the screws holding the structure together are hidden and are quite difficult to find. It is impossible to describe all the designs, there are a great many of them, but there are several general principles: The plastic body of the iron is always attached to the soleplate using screws (I have not come across a single iron in which only plastic latches were used for fastening). The screws are usually hidden under decorative plugs, light filters for light bulbs, and a water tank for the steaming system. You should always try to disassemble the iron so that after assembly you won’t be ashamed to look at your work. Be careful not to break the plastic clips on the parts. First of all, you need to remove the back cover that covers the place where the electrical cord comes out. Finding the back cover screws is usually not difficult. By removing the back cover, you can check the integrity of the electrical cord; 20% of faults are associated with a broken wire where the cord exits the iron or plug. To check the integrity of the cord, you will need a tester or an ordinary continuity tester (battery, light bulb and piece of wire). One end coming from the light bulb is connected to the pins of the plug, and the other, coming from the battery, alternately to the wires coming out of the power cord. It is not necessary to check the wire in yellow-green insulation; this is the so-called protective neutral wire. If the light is on, then the wire is OK and you need to look for the fault further. If the light does not light, then you can be congratulated on finding the problem. To eliminate this malfunction, it is usually enough to shorten the cord by 10-15 centimeters and reconnect it to the place where these wires were screwed (after first checking its integrity again, if the continuity light does not light, then the wire is damaged near the plug and it must be replaced) It should be noted that the electrical cord of the irons is special; its wires have rubberized insulation that can withstand high temperatures. Therefore, any wire will not work here; it needs rubberized insulation. If the wire is normal, then you will have to disassemble the iron further. Before further disassembly, you need to sketch out the wiring diagram, then this drawing will greatly facilitate your assembly. Philips, Siemens, Braun, Tefal, Rowenta, Bosh are leaders in production
To repair an iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made. Looking at it, we can say that it is structurally similar to devices such as a kettle or heater. The differences lie only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional components.
The iron, regardless of the country and manufacturer, has four main components:
- heater;
- plug with cord;
- thermal fuse;
- Temperature regulator.
In order for the iron to start working, voltage must be applied to the tubular heating element located in the sole of the device. Modern models, such as Roventa, use powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 W. If you do not interrupt the heating process, the base of the device will become so hot that it will only be suitable for frying scrambled eggs, and not for ironing clothes.
In order to prevent excessive heating, a control device is built into the circuit of the devices. The thermal mode depends on the iron's thermostat, which is selected taking into account the type of fabric: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 C, others require readings of 200 C. In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjustment wheel is located in the upper part of the body under the handle.
An important safety component is the fuse. When the appliance reaches extreme temperatures resulting from a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open its contacts and the iron will turn off.
Before repairing the iron, you need to check the serviceability of the power cord. Most often, it cracks in places of frequent deformation - at the entrance to the case or near the plug. The malfunction may appear gradually when the indicator light flashes during ironing. This winking means that there is no normal contact and the terminals may be oxidized.
Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. If the wires rub against each other for a long time, the insulating layer may be damaged and a short circuit may occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by a strong bang, turning off other devices and a specific smell characteristic of burnt wiring.
For women who are especially impressionable, such situations hurt to the core. They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and react by calling their husband, the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the house management. Most correct option- the first, because any man whose hands grow where they should can get the iron to turn on again. Otherwise, you should still contact your stronger half so that he can hand over the item for repair.
The Internet is filled with videos on iron repair. Many stories are devoted to flaws in the supply wire. If the cord is faulty near the plug, there is no need to disassemble the device. In the case where suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the body, disassembly is indispensable. To carry out, for example, repair of a Philips iron with your own hands, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord splits into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be restored. If the terminals become oxidized, you need to disconnect the wires and clean the problem areas.
Checking the electric heater
Heating element in modern designs It is a reliable unit and rarely breaks. When this problem occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. It's easier to buy a new iron. But first you should make sure that the problem is in the heating element.
In all models, the heater contacts are soldered to the device contacts and connected to an indicator lamp. If the lamp is on, but the iron does not heat up, then the malfunction is related to the heating element.
The most common cause of failure of the heating element is a rupture of the spiral. Another reason may be insufficient contact of the heating element rods with the device terminals at the connection points.
On some models, the thermal fuse is included in one heater circuit, and the regulator is included in another. If the fuse is faulty, then a false “diagnosis” can be made, suspecting a faulty heating element. To accurately determine the cause of the device failure, it should be completely disassembled.
Problems with the thermostat
Control temperature conditions carried out with a round wheel. It is located in the Azur iron and in other models on the body under the handle. When you turn the wheel to the right, the heating temperature increases, and to the left, it decreases until the heating element is completely turned off.
The wheel acts on the thermostat through a special bushing or steel angle and is attached to the body using latches. In the Scarlet iron and other models, it is enough to pry the adjustment disc with a screwdriver so that it comes off.
The operating principle of the thermostat is based on the various properties of metals. In the manufacture of this unit, two plates made of metals having unequal linear expansion coefficients are soldered together. Thanks to these indicators, the plates each behave differently. Outwardly, it looks like this: under the influence of temperature, the common plate bends, causing the circuit to open, and the iron turns on.
To verify that the temperature regulator is faulty, you will have to completely disassemble the iron.
The handle of the device and the plastic parts of the body are attached to the metal parts with latches or self-tapping screws. Even one manufacturer has many models, and they all have design features. But all species have common points.
To disassemble the iron, you need to examine its sharp part, where there is one attachment point. For example, a Philips iron hides a self-tapping screw under the steam control knob. To unscrew the screw, turn the handle all the way to the left and pull up. After removing the adjusting unit, you can unscrew the screw. In the Brown model, the screw is hidden under the nozzle cover. You can remove the nozzle by slightly pulling it towards you. After removing it, it opens Free access to the screw. Other screws or latches are located under the back cover of the device.
After the plastic part of the body has been removed, you should consider the iron's thermostat. In cold mode the contacts must be closed. If there is a special device, it is better to ring the node. If you don’t have the device, you can clean the contacts with fine sandpaper and then plug in the iron.
The fuse and other faults are to blame
To fix your iron, you can refer to statistics that say that 50-60% of malfunctions occur due to the fact that the thermal fuse fails. This unit can be disposable or reusable. The fuses of the first group, like a kamikaze, operate only once. The unit is designed so that when the heating element reaches a temperature of 240 C, the circuit breaks. Further operation of the device without additional intervention becomes impossible.
More modern technologies involve the use of bimetallic parts. Such a thermal fuse can turn off the iron in extreme situations, and then turn it on again. If the iron does not work for this reason, the easiest way is to throw away the unit and short-circuit the circuit. This can be done in different ways:
- using soldering;
- by crimping a metal rod;
- switching power wires.
In each case, it is necessary to achieve reliable contact.
Another common problem is a problem with the steam system. Sometimes in a Bosch iron the button that turns on the process is pressed hard, and no steam is supplied. Repairing a Bosch iron should begin by unscrewing the screw at the back and removing the back cover. Then you should carefully pull the two buttons that regulate the steam supply up. They are not secured with screws and are held on the bushings by friction. Next you need to unscrew the screw, after which plastic handle should come off easily. Under the cover there are two pumps: one supplies water to the sprinkler, the other delivers water to the sole to create steam. The steam pump needs to be removed. There is a ball at the bottom, which sticks to the bottom of the chamber due to scale. To fix the problem, you need to push the ball into the chamber and reassemble the iron in the reverse order.
Whatever iron you have to repair, you need to remember safety and follow certain rules: turn on the device only when necessary; do not try to fix the problem with wet hands; During repairs, the iron must be placed on a stable, non-current and heat-resistant coating.
You will be surprised, but the problem of how to disassemble the iron is the most difficult when repairing. The manufacturer is trying to impose official service. In the USSR, disassembling an iron was not an easy task. What can we say about the current diversity? Soviet models were quite rough from an aesthetic point of view, the master is free not to worry appearance, modern models beautiful, they reveal such a fragile body. The plastic parts, as luck would have it, are made from a type of polymer that exhibits minimal flexibility and breaks easily.
We believe steps are being taken, we will repeat to give work service centers. Ordinary people are used to counting every penny; we want to do it ourselves. So, today's topic: how to disassemble an iron.
Disassembling the iron
Let's start, probably, with the promised Soviet iron. Let’s say right away that they have little in common with steam engines. Let's list the parts that make up the iron with the quality mark in the form of a star inscribed in the pentagon:
- Back cover.
- Temperature regulator.
- Power cable.
- Sole.
- The handle is often integral with the body.
Tool set
Inside is a power supply block, a heating element for the soles, a thermostat and a thermal fuse. In the UL-84 model, which we see in the photo, in the back of the sole there is a quick access cover to the heating element. You see the lid with the iron upside down. Admire the power contacts of the heating element. In the background you can see a gentleman's kit for opening household appliances. Let me explain. In the green case there are many tips along with the typical TORX, you can notice the incredible shape of the head. The set was purchased in Moscow at a cost of about 800 - 1000 rubles. Adapter included. Today bits are much cheaper due to dealer competition.
The heads do not fit the reversible screwdriver, which we will see here. Through the adapter, the cap fits into the cap onto the internal magnet. In the gray case you can see 6 sockets for standard screwdriver heads. The cost of pleasure with a handle is hundreds of rubles, no more than 400. Why do we take so long to mull over the instrument? Every iron disassembly video begins with complaints about non-standard screw heads. Meanwhile, every man just needs to get a gentleman’s kit that allows him to spin up a spaceship. Moreover, readers probably purchased a drive with replaceable heads. Buy a set of custom attachments!
Having removed the back cover (photo number 2), we see: there are clearly no power bolts. It is seen:
- clamping plate with two screws;
- contacts going to the relay, one turn is broken by a bimetallic plate, adjustable with a mode knob.
It is clear that the input must be sought from the temperature regulator. Carefully pry the handle from the sides with two screwdrivers, it will fly out with a terrible crack. The regulator was held in place by two steel spring clips that clung to a groove. Nothing criminal. Look at the photo, it looks scary, it has been working for almost half a century. Will Philips, Vitek, Tefal, Braun, Bosch give such a guarantee? Draw your own conclusions. You see two power bolts, let’s unscrew them immediately!
To remove the sole, we will disassemble the contact block shown in the second photo. In the last image we see an adjustable bimetallic plate. To protect against incorrect fitting of the regulator during assembly, the asymmetry of the hole shape is noted. Disassembly is complete. The power of the device is 1 kW, the winding resistance should be 50 Ohms. Will be performed at any position of the thermostat as long as the contacts are closed.
Of course, if necessary, we will adjust the bimetallic plate. Pliers plus skilled hands are used. By bending the metal, we change the temperature at which the relay operates. Disconnect the heating element by disassembling the contacts in photo number 2. Check the short circuit resistance of the relay. Great - clean the contacts, sand them.
Disassemble imported steam iron
We avoid saying that it’s easy to disassemble a Tefal iron, here’s typical techniques.
The device of a modern iron
Modern irons are three-tiered, typical composition:
- The handle is integral with the tank.
- A housing that protects the tank from a hot base.
- The sole has a boiler and holes that release steam.
The assemblies are structurally unified. It is often not possible to disassemble in parts without breaking. The handle is glued to the tank, the body is a single piece made of plastic, the method of welding the boiler and the sole is generally difficult to identify.
There is a compartment under the body electronic elements. Thermostat, represented by a bimetallic plate. A thermal fuse is visible nearby; it is usually molded through heat-resistant fabric onto the wall of the tank, or close to the heating element. Accordingly, the element setting can be, for example, 140 degrees or higher. Determined by the implementation circuit for overheating protection and the model of the iron. You can recognize a thermal fuse by its mounting bracket and by the eloquent inscriptions on the body indicating the permissible current (optional) and response temperature.
Replace the thermal fuse with the same one. To disassemble the Braun Freestyle corded iron, you will need to push the cord with electronic filling back. According to the tips given above, first remove the rear screws, then the bow. Finally, remove the sprayer located in the area of the steam boost buttons. The cord and electronic part are held in place by plastic teeth. The handle, tank, sole are practically one whole. However, in the bow we will notice a couple of power screws. Act according to the circumstances.
The design, we believe, has become the basis of cordless irons. Power contacts are made detachable. You can remove and put the sole with the tank and the handle back in place whenever you want. No disassembly. Although any wireless irons operate in cycles: n seconds tyrannize the stand, m seconds iron the clothes, there are no timers inside (signal LEDs are on). Operates controlled by a bimetallic plate. A green light bulb is included in the sole circuit, and a second upper position contact for the red one is created. Follow the traffic lights. Green means you can. Red? It's time to put the iron on and get some strength.
Models have been created with a built-in battery, of course, they weigh more. Not everyone can call quality a virtue. But autonomous operation lasts longer. As for regular expensive cordless irons, the cycle is something like 24 – 5. The ironing time is five times longer than the resting time. Disassembling a cordless iron is no more difficult than a wired one.
Let's add that cordless irons are not uncommon: Tefal, Philips. Recently Panasonic appeared on the market. Real news, Tefal is not popular in America. Panasonic boasts a convenient portable box. They forgot to inspect the Japanese most ergonomic iron among cordless models sold in Russia, overseas. It was released in India, but it’s difficult to buy even on e-bay.
By the way, stop thinking too badly about Buddha’s homeland. A good part of the world's population lives on software.
We hope we taught readers how to disassemble an iron. Here are typical techniques that are used everywhere. Create universal instructions It is impossible how to sort through numerous models. Individual specimens from one manufacturer may differ significantly from others on the market. We say goodbye, wait for comments, look at the photos, rate, compare, learn to disassemble irons with your own hands.
– a guarantee of neat things and a neat appearance. Responsible and respectable housewives experience not very pleasant emotions when the device breaks down - not everyone can afford its expensive repairs. And why spend extra money if you can fix the device yourself. Let's look at what the main malfunctions of an ironing device are and how you can repair the iron at home yourself.
Before disassembling the ironing machine, check all external structural elements, perhaps the problem lies with them. The main parts of the iron are located in its bottom, and they are the main reasons for breakdown. These include:
1) Temperature regulator.
2) Electrical cord
3) Water regulator
4) Steaming system
5) Iron sole
6) Heating element
Origin of the iron
The first ironing facility was invented back in Ancient Greece- heated stones were used to pleat clothes. When did the first one like this appear? modern form iron, it was used exclusively for ironing silk.
Interesting fact: The body of the first irons was filled with hot coals.
It is not known who and when invented a semblance of a modern iron, but the invention of the first electrical appliance assigned to Henry Seeley. An American registered a mechanism called “Electric flat iron” in 1882.
The weight of the electrical device was six kilograms. Therefore, it is not difficult to imagine what the ironing process was like. After the heating method using a carbon arc was introduced into the mechanism, caring for fabric items became much easier.
In 1892, Crompton Co and General Electric Company began producing electric coil irons. Next, a current regulator and steam supply, anti-scale protection and other important options were introduced into the devices. The design of irons changed in accordance with fashion.
Iron device
The principle of the ironing mechanism is as follows: the current heats up the coil, which directs the resulting heat into the sole of the mechanism. The rather complex design of the ironing apparatus includes the following elements:
- Electrical wire. Such devices use wires with fabric braiding, which protects the wire sheath from heat and chafing.
- Steam regulation system. Special buttons on the mechanism serve as a signal for the supply of steam or water spray.
- Water container. In a special compartment, the liquid for supplying steam is processed.
- Thermostat. Due to thermoregulation, the device does not overheat, thereby not spoiling things.
- Iron sole. The part is used for direct ironing of clothes.
To determine the malfunction, the device must be diagnosed. That's why for self-repair It is recommended to know the design features and operating principle of the ironing machine.
Diagnostics of the iron and determination of possible causes of malfunction
An iron may not work for various reasons; its breakdown is affected by poor quality care, length of use, water used and many other factors. Let's consider the main device signals about a malfunction.
What does it mean when the iron beeps? Each device of this type has thermal relays; they periodically turn on and off. They can be diagnosed using an electrical tester. To do this, disassemble the ironing device and check the electrical signal with a tester.
The iron is leaking: what to do? Leakage can be caused by two reasons: valve malfunction or improper operation. In the first case, water leaks from the steam generator iron: when the valve is closed or the liquid is not heated enough to produce steam. To check the part, fill with water and plug in the device. Shake the device horizontally and turn off the steam supply. If water flows out, the valve is not closed tightly. With Philips ironing devices, such a malfunction occurs less frequently; models and are characterized by especially long-term use.
What to do if the iron does not steam well or does not release steam at all? The reason may lie in scale. In this case, you need to clean the mechanism with lemon solution: pour the mixture citric acid into the iron and set to steam mode. Wait full recovery steam and rinse the device with distilled water.
Why doesn't the iron heat up? Optimal heating stops when the following parts break down: pump, thermal fuse, or contacts simply come off. For precise definition The device should be diagnosed; you can do this yourself or entrust it to a specialist. To diagnose, open the device and check the suspected parts with an electrical tester. If one of the parts malfunctions, the device will stop beeping.
Why does the iron take a long time to cool down? The problem may be with the thermostat. You can check the breakdown using a multimeter like this: open the case and clean the contacts on the bimetallic plate with sandpaper. Check them with an electrical tester and turn the governor tiller. The number 1 on the device display will indicate its malfunction.
How to disassemble an iron
Disassemble the mechanism old design not a problem, it’s more difficult to deal with new models. Modern three-tier irons consist of a handle, body and sole. Find hidden under plastic trim Screws can be difficult to figure out; to do this you need to know their main locations. The fastening elements are located in the end part, under the temperature regulator and handle, as well as under the buttons. Take a suitable screwdriver or other handy object and carefully pry up the device body. Once the body of the device is removed, remove the last three screws on the inside of the sole. Now, we can consider that the last stages of dismantling have been completed. The mechanism is assembled according to the same scheme. Watch the video: How to disassemble an iron in 3 minutes.
Advice: Treat unwinding the iron with special attention and caution. In most cases, it is impossible to disassemble the mechanism without breaking. You can find out the design details by reading the instructions, this way you have a better chance of protecting the device from mechanical damage.
Power cord problems
Most often, the cord frays near the plug and casing. If the cord malfunctions, the part requires replacement. Carry out electrical tests first, they will help determine the exact cause of the breakdown. Tests are carried out using a multimeter, a test lamp, a phase indicator and with the help of a “lie”. The operating principle of the devices is the same. All of them serve to determine the electrical signal at given points. Some models of irons do not have a power cord; such devices include.
Advice: In some cases, to resume normal operation of the iron, it is enough to clean the contacts on the plug. In this case, it is not necessary to change the wire.
Malfunction of the tubular electric heater (TEH)
Before replacing the main heating element, try descaling it. It is scale that becomes the main reason for poor heating. When used correctly, the heating element must be cleaned of corrosion, scale and other damage once every 3 months. Also, due to severe overheating, the spiral on the heating element may rupture, this is another reason to replace the part. Before buying a device, determine the required power, size, and heat transfer conditions of the future part. The process of replacing an old heating element with a new one is simple; to do this, connect a new one in place of the faulty device. The heating element is screwed on with screws.
Advice: The higher the power of the iron, the faster it will heat up. Powerful mechanisms include models and.
Advice: Since the tens are released different designs, choosing an element for a new iron model will not be a problem.
Thermal fuse malfunction
The thermal fuse is designed to protect electrical system device from network overvoltages or short circuits. The part is placed near the main heating element. To diagnose a thermal fuse, use a multimeter (inexpensive option): connect the plus and minus contacts to the two ends of the part. The number one on the display means an open circuit ( complete failure device). As practice shows, common cause The thermal fuse becomes a thermal fuse to break the iron. However, there is no need to be too afraid; during normal operation of the temperature controller, the device can function without the help of a fuse.