Plum is a stone fruit plant found in every garden.
At proper care, the tree bears a large number of tasty and juicy fruits that can be pickled, jam, compotes and excellent tinctures.
The tree has a wide variety of varieties that take root well in different climatic conditions.
Plum fruits are a storehouse of useful substances, among which one can note: calcium, phosphorus, mineral salts, proteins, carbohydrates, chromium, iodine, zinc, copper, as well as a large amount of vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, C, PP, E).
During cultivation, the plum loves space, so that neighboring crowns do not close, therefore, it is important to take this moment into account when planting. Special attention it is worth giving fertilizers, they must be applied strictly in the amount indicated in the instructions, otherwise the tree can be seriously damaged. It is important to select pollinating varieties, so the tree will not only bloom well, but also bring a bountiful harvest.
Plum dries up: why
There are many reasons for the drying of plums. Among the main ones it is worth mentioning improper care throughout the year and climatic changes. Do not forget about diseases and pests that bring unpleasant consequences to the plant. However, if the tree is treated in time and the pests are destroyed, then it will continue to grow well and bear fruit abundantly.
Plum dries up: what to do - weather reasons
Oddly enough, but stone fruit trees are very sensitive to watering. If drinking regimen disturbed, this can lead to drying out of the plum and poor fruiting. The plant needs high-quality watering, especially during flowering and ovary formation.
Plum very badly tolerates severe frosts, since it appeared on the territory of our country much later than other fruit trees. The plant has not yet fully adapted to climatic features... Cold has a bad effect on the condition of the entire plant, which leads to drying out. To avoid an unpleasant situation, it is worth choosing frost-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, even choosing correct grade, you cannot completely insure the tree against freezing. Of such unpleasant consequences can be avoided if the plant is properly cared for throughout the year. The plum needs some care throughout the year:
November - December, it is necessary to properly trample the snow around the tree so that the mice do not penetrate the seedling. It is necessary to shake off the snow from the branches of the plant to prevent the branches from breaking off;
January, if the winter is practically snowless, then the available amounts of snow must be scooped up to the tree trunk and well trampled. Such actions will protect the roots and trunk from freezing;
February, the snow must be removed from the tree trunk and the winter harness removed. The plum trunk must be whitewashed with a limestone solution (for 10 liters of water, you need 3 kg of lime and 2 kg of clay), such manipulations will help the tree to transfer temperature changes;
March, in the middle of the month it is necessary to start cutting the plum;
April, it is necessary to dig grooves to divert melt water, so much moisture will not penetrate to the root of the tree. The soil around the trees must be dug up, and nitrogen fertilizers must be scattered around, they will provide excellent growth, development and flowering. To save the plant from possible spring frosts, it is worth preparing smoke heaps in advance, which will warm the tree;
May, if the temperature is about +1 ° C, then it is necessary to set fire to the smoke heaps. It is better to stop smoking in 1 - 2 hours after sunrise. After that, it is advisable to water the tree with warm water and spray the crown. In hot weather, the plum needs abundant watering (about 6 buckets for 1 tree). Before flowering, the plant needs mineral and organic fertilizers;
June - July, it is necessary to water and feed the plant. Organic fertilizers you need to dilute 1:10 and add 5 buckets of solution under the tree. Urea must be diluted in 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of fertilizer and 5 buckets under the tree;
August - September, the tree needs feeding, so fertilizers will nourish the tree with everyone useful substances, which will prevent freezing and subsequent drying. In the fall, the tree must be watered abundantly (about 7 buckets), this will help it overwinter;
October, the trunk must be cleaned of various damages and whitewashed with lime, just like in February.
Proper care is the key to good wintering and the health of the whole tree. Following such simple rules, you can save the plum from frost and other weather conditions... So the plum will not dry out, but on the contrary will bring good harvest.
Plum dries up: what to do - pests and diseases
Plum yield directly depends on the "health of the tree". Gardeners need to be well aware of plant diseases and take urgent action if necessary.
1. Perforated spot Is a fungal disease that affects leaves, flowers and bark. It is most active in spring, when it rains. Brown spots appear on the plant, surrounded by a darker border. Holes appear on the leaves over time, and the fruits stop growing in the affected areas and the disease penetrates to the very bone.
To prevent plum disease, the tree should be pruned annually to prevent thickening. In autumn, fallen leaves need to be removed, and the soil around must be dug up. The affected branches should be cut and burned, and the wounds should be healed. If the disease has not receded, then the tree must be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (30 g per 10 l of water). This should be done 2 weeks after flowering.
2. Gommoz- a disease that manifests itself in the form of a brownish thick resin. It is quite common on tassel fruit trees. Resin appears in places that have been damaged by frost or received sunburn... Usually, the affected plum branches dry up. The disease appears due to unfavorable conditions, and it can also develop due to the large amount of nitrogen and moisture in the soil.
The drain must be properly and promptly looked after, and mechanical damage must be avoided. The resulting wounds must be immediately cleaned and disinfected (with petralatum). If the branches are significantly affected, it is better to prune and destroy them. The affected bark must be cleaned and rubbed with horse sorrel, and then greased with garden varnish.
3. Rust Is a fungal disease that initially infects the leaves. On the outside of the leaf, red spots appear, which increase in size. A diseased tree weakens, begins shedding its leaves prematurely, and is prone to freezing, leading to drying out.
Fallen leaves must be destroyed in a timely manner. Before flowering, the tree must be sprayed with copper chloride (40 g per 5 liters of water, 3 liters of solution are needed per tree). At the end of the harvest, the plum must be treated with Bordeaux liquid.
It is worth paying attention to pests that infect the tree and this can lead to drying out of the plum.
1. Goldtail Is a butterfly white, its size is about 5 cm. During the swelling of the buds, the insect harms the leaves and buds of the tree. By the end of May, the caterpillar pupates and a butterfly appears, which lives in the bark, and on back side leaves she lays eggs. To destroy the pest, it is necessary to treat the plum with karbofos even before flowering.
2. Ringed silkworm- this is a moth, about 4 cm in size, its wings are grayish in color. In spring, the insect eats leaves and buds. Control measures: before flowering, the tree must be sprayed with tinctures of wormwood, chamomile or tobacco. If folk methods do not help, then you need to try chemical agents(entobacterin, dendrobacillin).
Plum dries up: what to do - if the reasons are not established
It may happen that it is not possible to eliminate the causes of the drying of the plum.
The gardener could not save the tree from freezing or could not be cured of the disease and overcome the pest. Leave the plum alone.
Perhaps next year from some surviving kidney will go new escape... If this does not happen, and the plum has dried up completely, it is recommended to uproot the tree. It is possible to plant a young seedling in its place only after three years.
Readers often ask why plant leaves wither. It happens on an apple and plum tree, on cucumbers and eggplants, on asters and strawberries, .. At first, the leaves grow normal, and suddenly they begin to fade, although the soil did not dry out.
In all cases, infections are the cause, but diseases can be different. Another thing is alarming: many do nothing! Sometimes diseased leaves (branches) are cut off and that's it! And often dry branches remain in the crown. It is unacceptable! In this case, the disease will recur from year to year!
THE ROOT OF EVIL
If fade vegetable crops and strawberries, then the problem is in the roots. Infections affect the vascular system of the roots, blocking the access of moisture to the leaves, which is why they wither. Eggplants and cucumbers have leaves hanging like rags. Later, they begin to dry out.
The disease can proceed very quickly, the plant dies in 3-4 days. But sometimes the process is extended over time. It all depends on the conditions (weather, care) and how "evil infection" is.
Leaves wither when fusarium and verticillary wilting... The second disease is often referred to as "wilt". The symptoms are very similar, and only professionals can distinguish between diseases. As the roots are affected, different diseases united under the general name "root rot".
The causative agents are fungi that live in the soil. If it is infected, then the plants suffer from year to year.
The infection spreads to the area with garden tool or on shoes. As a result, different cultures can be affected - strawberries, clematis, eggplants ...
Control measures. Depending on the course of the disease, leaf wilting may be temporarily suspended, for example, in cloudy weather and immediately after watering. Therefore, the gardener gets the impression that the plant lacks moisture. Frequent watering starts, which is a gross mistake! Waterlogging of the soil, on the contrary, accelerates the development of the disease.
Plants need to be treated. Fungicides are used against fungal infections. Of the public ones, these are MAXIM and VITAROS. The solution is watered at the root at the very beginning of the disease (when the leaves wither, but still do not dry out). If the process is very much started, then the plant is very difficult to save. In some crops (asters, strawberries), it is better to dig out the bush along with the soil, and spill the hole with a fungicide. Do not put these plants in compost, just burn them!
IN initial stage plant diseases can be cured. An example is clematis. At times aerial part dries up completely, but the root remains alive, and clematis grows back.
Sometimes the disease affects the plant already with fruits. It's a pity to lose such a bush, say eggplant. And chemical agents cannot be used - they will turn into fruits.
GLIOKLADIN will help. It is a biological fungicide for the suppression of fungal infections in the soil. And again, you cannot delay treatment!
As soon as you notice that the leaves are withering and the soil is moist, immediately apply Glyocladin. 3-4 tablets under a bush to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Be sure to mulch the soil so that it does not dry out, otherwise the drug will not work.
Despite the fact that one or two plants are affected, the tablets must be placed under all the bushes so that they do not get sick. If the disease was last year, do not guess - it will be or not. Add Glyocladin
NOW!
From biological products on the healthy plants you can use Alirin, Gamair, Fi-tosporin, Fitolavin. It is an excellent prophylaxis against root rot and other fungal infections.
Grow plants on loose soil, avoid crusting. To this end, mulch the soil in the root zone.
After harvesting, disinfect the soil in the greenhouse with the same fungicides. Observe the change of crops, do not plant cucumbers in the same place for two years in a row.
The infection can be brought into the garden with purchased seedlings. When planting, it is very useful to immediately shed the soil with a fungicide, and put Glyocladin tablets under the roots.
IF THE BRANCHES DIE
In spring and early summer, leaves often dry on plums, felt cherries, less often on apples and pears. At first they just wither, and then dry up and remain hanging on the branches.
Here another infection is moniliosis. By the nature of the lesion (the leaves are brown, as if burned), the disease is called a monilial burn
The causative agent is also a mushroom. Penetrates into leaves and flowers of plants through their stomata and wounds caused by insects. The infection spreads gradually: first, young shoots wither, and then the fungus penetrates deeper and deeper, affecting perennial branches.
If you do nothing, you can lose half of the tree! Sometimes large dry branches are visible in the crown for a long time. Against the background of healthy branches, they stand out with a dead brown color.
Young seedlings die completely, usually in spring, when the leaves have barely blossomed.
But the gardener hopes that the tree will revive, and does not touch the branches until next year... And this is a carrier of infection!
With moniliosis, do not expect the infection to develop when it kills a large branch. Start by trimming small wilted shoots. In this case, the disease can be stopped.
Control measures. When the leaves on a plum, cherry, apple tree wither, the affected branches must be cut off with the capture of a healthy part (with leaves that have not yet wilted).
After pruning, spray the plant with fungicides on based on copper Hom, Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture or Horus preparation.
Spray like this annually. in early spring, before the leaves bloom. Re-processing after flowering is also desirable. Avoid dense plantings by regularly pruning and thinning the crown.
Plum trees grow in front of our house. After this winter, we were afraid that they would freeze. But the plums survived, although they did not bloom. In the summer, part of the crown of one adult tree withered. Leaves without falling, dried right on the plant. In the literature they write that such branches must be removed. But in our case, you need to cut down half of the tree! And there is no damage to the barrel. On the other plum, a small twig is also withered. Neighbors say it could have happened because of the drought. But we watered our trees with a hose, and the leaves were also moistened. What is it? What should we do? N. Ryabova, Pavlovo
Young trees can really dry out from a lack of moisture. But, as a rule, the whole plant suffers, and the leaves wither on all branches in the same way. Mature trees are saved from drought by a deep root system, which draws moisture from the lower layers of the soil.
In the case of the plum, the reason for the death of half of the tree is most likely that it is affected by moniliosis.
Moniliosis is a fungal disease of stone fruit trees such as cherries, plums, and apricots. The causative fungus infects the plant during the flowering period, falling on the pistil of the flower. Then it sprouts and penetrates the branch through the peduncle. Further, moniliosis develops inside the branch, affecting the wood deeper and deeper. At the end of June, individual dried branches can be seen on a diseased plant. By the nature of the disease (the leaves hang on the tree, like burnt ones), the disease is also called monilial burn.
Sometimes the disease becomes a mass phenomenon and then a significant part of the crown perishes.
The causative agents of the disease can penetrate into the tree and through cracks and other mechanical damage to the plant. Affected fruits (cherries, plums, apricots) become brown and soften, then they dry up (mummify). Without falling, the fruits hang on the tree until spring.
Pathogens hibernate inside affected plants and mummified fruits. In spring, spores are spread by air, with raindrops or pests.
Warm, humid weather is most favorable for the development of moniliosis. This year there is a drought, but if you often water the plants by wetting the leaves with a hose, the effect can be compared to rainy weather.
The development of the disease is also facilitated by the thickening of the plants, as well as their location in the lowlands.
In unfavorable years, when moniliosis becomes widespread, the crop can completely die, and the tree can be greatly weakened. If you do not take action for several years, then the plant will dry out completely.
Measures to combat moniliosis:
1. The garden should be laid in well-ventilated areas.
2. Remove overgrowth of cherries, plums, avoiding thickened plantings.
3. Avoid mechanical damage to plants, and in case of such, carry out the treatment of wound surfaces (cover with garden varnish or paint).
4. Remove dry branches as soon as you find them. Cut them by grabbing healthy wood 10-15 cm down. If this is not done during this, then the damage to the branch will only increase, since the pathogen penetrates deep (down) the wood.
5. Collect dried fruits and destroy them (burn). To collect fruits from the upper branches, use special devices, but do not leave the source of the disease in the crown of the tree.
6. Collect leaves that have fallen during pruning and fall. Burn them. Do not put into compost under any circumstances!
7. Treat cherries, plums and other stone fruits annually with fungicides against moniliosis. Suitable preparations are HOM, HORUS (according to the instructions), copper oxychloride (40 g of powder per 5 liters of water). Carry out processing before and after flowering. After pruning the affected branches, treat the fruit trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
This article can be found in the newspaper "Magic Garden" 2010, No. 14.
Number of impressions: 17,287
Plum is considered one of the most stable and unpretentious, but it can also be attacked by disease. The first heralds that something is wrong with the plant are the yellow leaves that appeared in the middle of summer. The reasons may be different, therefore, it is necessary to act in each case in a special way. In order not to be mistaken, read the information below.
Pick-up location
If the tree begins to change the color of the foliage and lose it from the top, then most likely the reason for this is close occurrence groundwater ... Perhaps you took this factor into account when planting a plant, but when the plum reaches the age of five, its root system grows deep into the soil. Therefore, if for a young tree, the depth of groundwater was large, adult plant can easily reach them with roots. Solve this problem it is possible by replanting or draining the soil, or forming a hill.
Another reason, similar in manifestation and character, is frequent flooding of the site spring floods or after long rains. In this case, the tree must be transplanted to a hill. 
Freshly planted plums may have yellow leaves. Perhaps the reason for this is lack of lighting... On a sunny day, look closely to see if the seedling is shaded by larger, close-growing plants or buildings. If the answer is yes, then transplant the plum immediately so that you do not have to cut down other trees later.
Lack of watering
Normally, with a lack of rainfall, an adult drain needs 6-8 buckets of water every ten days. Young tree, depending on his age, you need three to five buckets for ten days. If you pour out less water or watering less often, the tree may begin to turn yellow and dry out.
Freezing branches
Sudden temperature changes are detrimental to the tree. If with the arrival of heat you opened early root system plums, then, most likely, when spring frosts she will freeze.
If the root system of the plant is affected, then it receives less nutrients and begins to die. If the root system is damaged, you need to regularly feed the tree with fertilizers and hope that it will have enough strength to recover on its own. 
Only branches can suffer from nocturnal ones - then they just need to be cut off.
So that the plum does not suffer from frost, it should be prepared more carefully for winter and the shelter should not be removed ahead of time.
Did you know? Plum in England is called the "royal fruit", as Elizabeth II eats two plums every morning before breakfast, and then proceeds to the meal.
Nutrient deficiency
With a lack of nutrients, the foliage on the tree begins to turn yellow from below. Young shoots also suffer.
With a lack of soil nitrogen foliage turns light green, then slowly turns yellow. At the same time, the gains are weak, thin. The entire tree may stop growing. Conversely, if the soil is oversaturated with this element, then the plum grows quickly, covered with dark, bumpy foliage. large sizes... The period of flowering and fruiting occurs with a significant delay.
If your site has sandy and sandy loam soils, then there may be a lack of magnesium... The leaves are covered with yellow or red spots between the veins. Then the leaf begins to die off from the edge, twist and wrinkle it. The tree sheds its foliage early, fruits, even green ones, begin to fall off. 
If the plant lacks phosphorus, then its leaves acquire a bronze or purple hue, after which they can turn black and dry. The tree blooms poorly and for a short time. The fruits are small and tasteless.
Potash fasting leads to an imbalance in water balance. In a diseased tree, the leaf twists upward, acquires a yellow rim, then shades in blue, turns yellow, and at the end turns black.
The established type of fasting is corrected by introducing the missing element into the soil.
Diseases
Diseases and pests can also significantly change the appearance of a plant.
This is a fungal disease. Spores from the soil through the damaged root system enter the tree. Growing, the mycelium clogs the tubules in the trunk through which the juice moves. As a result, the leaves are deprived of nutrition and, as a result, begin to die off. They turn yellow, curl upward and fall off.
At the first manifestations of the disease, the plum must be processed or - this is done before and after flowering. If the signs of the disease became noticeable only at the top, then the fungus, most likely, has already affected the entire plant, and it can only be cut down and burned. The land where the tree grew should be treated with disinfecting agents.
Did you know? In ancient times in the Czech Republic, a person who committed some bad deed went to repent to a priest. He could forgive sin, if only the one who asks will work it out. As a rule, the practice was to plant plums near the road. Therefore, these trees are now growing along all the roads in the Balkans.
Moniliosis
Also a variety fungal disease- infects the plant through the pistils of the flower, then spreads to foliage and young branches. The disease is activated when the temperature drops from -0.6-1.5 ° C and with strong cold winds.
If blackening of the color is noticed, then immediately treat the tree, because if the flowers begin to fall, and the foliage begins to darken, then you will be left without a crop. Cut off the affected branches and burn them.
Video: the fight against stone fruit moniliosis
Important! If signs of moniliosis were found on one plant, treat all trees in the garden, as the fungus spreads with wind, rain, insects.
Another - usually affects foliage and shoots, sometimes occurs on fruits. Signs of the disease are small red-brown spots, which gradually increase in size and cover the entire surface of the leaf. It begins to bend like a boat, and pinkish mushroom spores are visible inside it. Gradually, the leaf dies off and falls off. If the disease has seriously affected the plum, then the spores of the fungus are also visible in the cracks in the bark. 
They can help to cope with adversity copper sulfate and Bordeaux liquid. Both the tree and the ground around it are cultivated.
Chlorosis
With this ailment, at the height of summer, the leaves on the top of the plum turn pale yellow, then turn white and fall off. Gradually, the disease spreads to the bottom of the crown. This happens for several reasons:
- alkaline soil (a lot of manure was applied);
- calcareous soil;
- lack of iron salts;
- freezing of the root system;
- oxygen starvation of roots due to soil locking.
At the initial stage of the disease, plums can be treated with 2% or "Antichlorosin". Use Hilat to nourish the plant.
Video: more about plant chlorosis
Plum aphid
When attacked by microscopic trees, the foliage turns yellow and curls. Aphid spreads at great speed, and it is not so easy to destroy it due to the fact that it settles on the back of the leaf and deforms its edges, so the drops of poison when spraying do not reach the target.
Damaged branches need to be cut off and burned, then the plant should be treated with infusion from, or with a soap-mustard solution. And in early spring, treatment should be carried out
Plum is not only delicious berries, but also a whole storehouse useful vitamins... However, it should be noted that the cultivation of such fruit tree can hardly be called easy. Plums need constant care, as well as other horticultural crops. In this article, we will talk about the difficulties you can face when growing plums.
Quite often, plums have such an unpleasant phenomenon as podoprevanie bark at the root collar. Such signs can occur in a tree after the winter season. In the event that the branches are dry, this indicates that the branches are frozen. Sometimes the buds dissolve the leaves and their flowering becomes quite possible, but later the branches may begin to dry out. Actually, this will be the main sign of crust podoprevanie. Plum is considered a very winter-hardy crop, so the aboveground part of the plum rarely perishes due to severe frosts. At the same time, podoprevanie bark - this phenomenon is considered quite common. All varieties, without exception, are susceptible to this phenomenon, and the result will be the death of the adductor system and the complete destruction of the links between the aboveground part and the root system. At the very beginning of spring, the aboveground part will still show signs of life, but over time it will die.
The mechanism itself for supporting the cortex is quite simple. At the very beginning of winter, due to the temperature difference, condensation will occur, then the bark above the surface of the tree will become wet. Then the tree starts to decompose, this process goes very quickly. Sometimes only two days will be enough and the bark already acquires a brown hue and begins to die off.
Timely measures should be taken so that this does not happen and your tree does not die. The main preventive measure will be planting trees where there is very little or no snow before the soil freezes. In this regard, the southern parts of the site seem to be the most optimal. You should also be careful to ensure that the plantings do not become too thickened. Therefore, it is necessary to select a site where snow will accumulate in less quantity.
For special measures, cooling the soil close to the root system of the plum is an excellent option. You can try to compact the snow layer, which will increase its thermal conductivity. In this case, the soil will cool faster and then, due to the difference in temperatures, condensation will not occur and, accordingly, such a nuisance will not occur with the bark of the tree. It is very easy to compact the snow: you just need to walk on it. However, many gardeners also use the following method: with the help of metal containers they freeze the soil, these containers should be dug into the soil near the tree. The containers should be covered with shields so that they are not covered with snow.
Another effective method the fight will be the planting of plum seedlings on special mounds from the bulk land. The trees will now rise about half a meter above the base soil. In winter, seedlings and trees will not be covered with snow. The soil itself will freeze before the beginning of winter, which will prevent the plums from becoming warm.
Many plum varieties begin to bear fruit around the third year of life, and finish after ten to twelve years. Actually, this can happen precisely because of the bark podoprevaniya, otherwise the tree could bear fruit longer. Trees can literally undercut every year, but with varying degrees of intensity. Young trees regenerate faster, so they will give a good harvest. However, with age, podoprevanie bark has an increasingly destructive effect, which the plum is no longer able to fight. It should be noted that there are no such varieties that would be resistant to bark podoprevanie. Therefore, the solution to the problem will be preventive measures and vigilant care of the sink during the summer season.