Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44
like this - provided that all the pieces are picked up Do not offer a car service for bumpers - it's very expensive and in general I want to try it myself
Ann 14-01-2010 11:49
I myself did not believe that burst plastic shelf from the refrigerator can be stupidly glued with a thermal gun, and it works fine further. Just glued the seam, and that's it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it on a layer of glue, so that it would be stronger.
Well, of course, you need to look at what kind of plastic, some are glued just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55
When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13
How many pieces?
Sometimes epoxy rolls onto a fabric base.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17
I do not know yet
TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22
dichloroethane glues well ...
How to turn an ordinary plastic bucket into a great basket
if you first dissolve a part of this plastic in it ... but on the condition that this plastic dissolves in this substance ...
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40
When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
buy a thermal gun and glue with heating through fiberglass or other fittings. Old buckets - polyethylene, everything will stick together to die.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42
Originally posted by Sportist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?
yes, how, how ... you stupidly take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - you glue it right along the seam, it grabs quickly, having collected it, with inside glue the mesh, fiberglass at the seams.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43
forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then polyethylene is there with a high degree of probability, or polypropylene, and DCE will not take it.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13
Dichloroethane will most likely not work here ... What is a thermal gun? In my understanding, this is Chinese shnyaga for 50 rubles, which spits hot melt adhesive (hot melt adhesive in rods)
alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18
yeah, it’s for them, the casing will be heavily thermally loaded? if yes, then there is dandyl heat resistant compound
Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49
How thermally loaded is the casing on outboard motor? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. I'll have to try hot melt adhesive.
makarharp 14-01-2010 15:24
somewhere on motorcycle sites I saw an exhaustive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that I even duplicated it here ... look, you can find it.
alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25
then there is a reserve, take the rods from 160 and that's it.
There is experience in repairing two NON-FUCKING holes on the plastic of the radiator with a dandyl compound, heat-resistant, black. Zallos like a monolith, shaking blows suffered with honor.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 17:26
from 160 what is this? Temperature? Price?
alchemist 14-01-2010 17:43
temperature, at the price of a kilo of rods in Leroy Chot about 110 rubles, ekstrotronk
Sportsman 15-01-2010 09:44
I don’t know what Leroy is, I’ll look at our radio shops which are
op-to-mat 15-01-2010 22:31
And which one did you mean?
demon 15-01-2010 22:40
cyanoacrylate type Loctite 401
Home▲▼
Do-it-yourself plastic bumper repair
Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to the bumper of your car. If not you, then you. If it is solved through the insurance - good. If the insurance does not roll, then there are two options: trust the professionals (it often happens here too) and lay out not a small amount or Do your own bumper repair.
It all starts with damage assessment. Usually a bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese counterpart. If the bumper has suffered quite seriously, then there can be no question of any restoration of it - it will come out more expensive. Repair work It is advisable to restore a plastic bumper if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.
Before repair, it is desirable to remove the bumper, for convenience. The entire restoration process, up to painting, is conveniently performed on a separate stand.
Procedure
— Remove the damaged bumper;
- Wash it well;
- Delete paintwork damaged area;
- clean the outer and inner surface with a grip of 10-15 mm on the sides of the damage. The layer of paint removed during stripping must be at least 0.2 mm, since upper layer surfaces during operation often change their properties, which may affect the quality of our repair seam;
- Drill the ends of the cracks (this will prevent their further growth). Here, it is the same as when repairing cracks, chips on the windshield with your own hands;
- To make the actual repair - we will consider the methods below;
- Priming and painting - will be required in most cases.
To repair the bumper with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:
— car hair dryer. This is a special device that does not differ in appearance and principle of operation from a conventional hair dryer. The only difference is that the hot air from such a hair dryer has a higher temperature and can soften or melt the plastic.
— soldering iron. You can use any soldering iron, preferably more powerful. Rosin and tin are not required, not the case.
— Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to fasten pieces of plastic together. You can use an old air filter.
— Priming. An ordinary spray can of automotive primer is quite suitable. If there is a compressor and a spray gun, then it's even better. Take your pick - it doesn't matter.
— Putty. No matter how perfect you solder the cracks, you still need putty. The exception is if this place is not visible.
— Sandpaper. For grouting putty 40 and 80 numbers, and for grouting soil already 800.
— Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper, and when working with a hair dryer, because straightening hot plastic with bare hands is not always comfortable. It's good to use gloves as well.
— Piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.
It may be advisable to buy a repair kit that includes items such as sandpaper, various retouching paints, and fillers. Such kits are not so expensive and can be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits do not use large packaging - why do you need a whole can of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.
bumper repair
To begin with, a qualitative inspection is carried out at good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents your bumper has. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other Supplies. It is best to do this before buying consumables and the missing tool.
Now let's take a closer look at the inside of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
type designations PP (PPTV20 and analogues) - the bumper is made of propylene;
mark PUR - polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) - the designation of hard plastics.
But it is not complete list materials from which bumpers for cars are made. You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbons, but they are marked very rarely and the maximum that can be found is the manufacturer's data. But if your bumper is made of solid (thermosetting) plastic or carbon fiber, then repair plastic bumpers of this type differs from the repair of products from other materials.
Cracks.
If there is a crack on the bumper, then we need a soldering iron and a mesh. Flip the bumper upside down and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and a crack long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but we don’t get carried away much, you can just make a hole. After that, melted plastic should cover the end of the mesh. Further, in this way, we solder the entire crack.
Let's look at the outside of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then nothing needs to be done. Otherwise, we pass the mesh on the outside. The main thing is to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you sharpen the putty with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.
Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from furniture stapler. The size of the staples should be chosen so that their legs do not pierce through the body. If there are no suitable staples, then you can take others and shorten them to the desired length. Use tweezers when soldering fittings, so you will protect yourself from burns.
We place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fault. Barely emerging cracks and branches are also fused. Otherwise, in the future, from vibration, they will develop into splits. In order to protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you fuse the bumper on the inside, the front surface should return to its original shape.
If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (the places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to tighten the crack with screws before soldering. A fairly simple but very effective method is proposed.
We take a suspension - it’s definitely called a “metal suspension for attaching guides”, there are such in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.
We cut it with a hacksaw or "grinder" as shown in the photo, depending on the type of bumper crack. Usually use parts 1 or 2 - the holes used are shaded in blue. Although it happens that when two cracks converge together, piece of iron No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.
In the figure - blue shows the working holes for the bolts. We drill holes in the bumper for screws, with reverse side we put the plate, insert the screw into the holes and fix the whole structure with nuts.
If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and not the first time, too).
Place a plate over the crack. Through the holes in the plate, drill holes in the bumper with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill is closer to the outer edge of the plate hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersinked so that the screw head "drowns" into the bumper. If there is no countersink, a drill bit with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the screw head can be used instead. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not drill through! But too small a hole is also not necessary. And one more thing - you can drill manually, just by hand, with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw, make a couple of turns - and the desired angle for the hat is ready.
We check the quality of soldering. Shake in the place of the crack after drying.
How to fix a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister
If everything is flimsy, then you have to solder it. However, this cannot be allowed, everything should be done for sure. After splicing the crack, the bumper surface should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass, and then with putty.
dents
If the dent turned out without a scratch, that is, the paintwork remained intact, you are very lucky. You can fix it in minutes. This completes the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hair dryer and heat the dent from the back. Warm up usually no more than thirty seconds. Then we wind a damp rag on a fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything carefully and without the use of great force. The main thing is not to transfer everything out. You can do several approaches in a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool.
In the case when, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further puttying and painting the surface.
Chips and scratches
You can fight them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into a more or less even surface. The pit, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body bars, if available, but you can also rub with your palm.
Detailed instructions for removing chips and scratches on a car - for those who need it.
A good result is obtained by using liquid plastic that matches your type of plastic on the bumper. Be sure to consult with the seller, after writing down the type of material of your bumper.
Stick masking tape (it is better to use self-adhesive fiberglass tape) on the front surface of the bumper. On cardboard, mix the adhesive mass and thickener. Apply the resulting mass to the masking tape. This is done to level the surface of the bumper. Next, the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Liquid plastic is applied to this place. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.
Putty
Let's prepare the putty by adding a hardener to it. After that, we will immediately apply dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips to the place. This is done naturally after the above mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.
Wait ten minutes before starting work. We take sandpaper number 80. With the help of movements directed to the left and right edges of the bumper, it begins to overwrite the putty. Sooner or later you will come to the desired result. Of course, the geometry of the body should be observed if the breakdown appeared in some not very convenient place. You can make several additional layers of putty to give a more even surface.
We prime
Take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. Let's check the result for the last time. If everything suits you, then you can proceed to the primer. We take cans or turn on the compressor. Apply the primer with movements directed, again, to the left and right edges of the bumper. Essentially, you need to draw a horizontal line while spraying.
Let the soil dry completely. After that, you will need to take eight-hundredth sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the breakdown was, the entire bumper is completely washed out. It should become matte after drying. And the first layer of soil is completely washed off, leaving only gray dots in the risks and pores on the putty.
We will apply another layer of soil, which we will also wash. Check the flatness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or scratches. The surface at this stage should be perfectly flat.
Now the bumper is completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as soon as possible.
Repair of plastic bumpers made of thermosetting plastics and fiberglass
On the one hand, this method will not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, it is necessary to follow all the instructions exactly. Only in this case, you can achieve a good result.
The procedure for carrying out repairs:
we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;
preparing epoxy resin for further use;
take a brush and coat the area of the crack ranging from 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;
we impregnate the fiberglass mat with epoxy resin and lay it on the prepared area. In the absence of such material, a mesh used to seal drywall joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.
Note that in this procedure the fiberglass must be repeatedly applied layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the bonded patch matches the thickness of the bumper in that area. The front side of the product remains unglued. The putty used to hide solder marks and other irregularities should be designed specifically for plastic in any case. Next, paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and try out the technique in practice, then in subsequent operation, if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.
In any case, you should not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repair. And it will be self repair or bumper repair in a car service - it's up to you.
I myself have not tried to seal plastic buckets, but I have seen how it is done. 5. The neck is glued to the bath with hot glue. The edges of the holes are slightly trimmed with a larger diameter drill, there should be no burrs! 4. In the intended circle, we drill 5-7 drain holes with a diameter of 4-5 millimeters.
ATTENTION! Washcloths and sponges need to be changed quite often, especially if they have lost their integrity and started to crumble. Please note: bathe the baby in a large shared bath You can only pre-treat its surface with soda, baby soap or special detergents. Suction cup accessories must be attached before filling the tub with water.
How to seal a plastic container?(+)Yesterday
Water intrusion and detergents reduces the reliability of fixation.
This steel structure, adjustable in height to which the bath is installed.
In the design of the bath, the factor of its stability is important.
With this posture, the passage of gases is facilitated and colic pains are more easily tolerated. The product meets all safety and hygiene requirements.
Microban is not released into the water and does not lose its properties over time.
The material of the product contains the additive Microban, which disinfects the water when bathing.
If the bath is stationary, then there should be anti-slip pads on the legs. The accessory provides the baby with soft support and prevents it from slipping. The sponge shape for bathing has a profile corresponding to the anatomical contours of the child. In its form, stops are provided between the legs and under the armpits. The anatomic slide is attached to the tub with suction cups. A hanging hammock made of fine mesh is hung over the bottom of the bath with hooks.
It is a removable stand that fixes the position of the child and allows you to make bathing safe and convenient.
What to consider when choosing a bath for a newborn
The anatomic bath has a built-in slide-support inside, following the contours of the child's body, so when bathing, he feels more confident. Armed with knowledge about the varieties and properties of baby baths and additional items for them, you will make right choice at the time of buying. For faster falling asleep, it is recommended to do a general massage for the baby, a video tutorial can be viewed in this publication.
This allows you to fix the baby in a comfortable position.
Very comfortable for newborns.
Increases convenience built-in drain. It allows you to quickly and easily change the water during bathing without disturbing the child.
The bath should not be too small so that the baby can use it for at least six months.
It is strange that almost all the accessories are mentioned here, but they forgot about swimming circles - this is about bathing in the bathroom. And when the baby grows up, you can bathe him in a spacious common bath, and leave the nursery for future offspring. Swimming hill.
Therefore, everything is available.
In some models, the stops are adjustable to match the height of the child. After use, it folds up compactly. Buying these items separately will cost less. But you can become the owner of things that you personally do not need.
A plastic tank is a convenient reservoir for water, which ensures the preservation of liquid parameters for a long time. It does not break down from moisture and is not prone to rust, but can be deformed under the influence of external factors. How to seal a plastic water tank? The choice of method depends on the nature of the damage and the type of polymer.
Causes of deformation and nuances of repair
One of the causes of damage to plastic water tanks is improper installation. Uneven ground and the presence of sharp objects can lead to changes in the geometry of the tanks, the appearance of cracks and leaks. Deformation can also be caused by mechanical influences, including shocks during operation.Before sealing a plastic water tank, you need to know the composition of the material that was used to make it. Depending on the feedstock, the following types of polymers are distinguished:
- Polyethylene (PE-HD). It is characterized by a combination of hardness and ductility, which simplifies the processing of plastic. Low pressure polyethylene is resistant to various organic and inorganic media and retains its parameters at temperatures from -50..+80 °C.
- Polypropylene (PP-H). Differs in the increased hardness, tensile strength and chemical resistance.
- Polyvinyl chloride (PVC-U). Withstands temperatures in the range from 0…+60 °C, as well as exposure to oxidizing media and chemically aggressive substances. In addition, it has high strength and hardness.
Troubleshooting Options
Restoring the integrity of polyethylene containers is complicated by the low coefficient of adhesion of the material, due to which the surface rejects the epoxy resin, the composition for cold welding, adhesives and sealants.- From small crack can be removed by sealing it with waterproofing bituminous tape.
- Another option is to repair the damage with a patch made from a piece of plastic and special modeling glue. The main thing is to thoroughly clean and degrease the surface.
How to seal a plastic water tank made of polypropylene
You can use patches made of fiberglass, which is fixed with a molten polymer. To do this, the surface of the container at the site of damage is cleaned and heated with a building hair dryer.Then liquid plastic is poured from the gun and a piece of fiberglass of the desired size is applied.
To ensure a strong fixation, the repaired area of the tank is again heated with a hairdryer.
When choosing a method for the restoration of polymer containers, one should take into account the water pressure during their operation. It has a significant effect on the deformed site and can increase the size of the damage.
Restoration of tanks by welding
One of effective ways elimination of deformations of plastic tanks is welding. Its action is based on the ability of materials to change from a solid to a viscous state under the influence of high temperatures.To repair plastic tanks, there should be no water in them.
The container is freed from liquid, and the damaged area is cleaned and degreased. Then perform the following operations:
- heat up the plastic in the deformed area, melting it to a certain depth; fill the crack with a heated tourniquet or a piece of polymer;
- cool and clean the resulting seam from excess plastic.
Tools and fixtures
In everyday life, the repair of plastic water tanks made of various types of plastic is carried out using a soldering iron and a hair dryer. When buying these tools, you need to consider the following criteria:- Power. For a soldering iron, it should be at least 100 W, and for a hair dryer - 1600 W.
- maximum heating temperature.
It is advisable to give preference to soldering irons with a wooden handle, because due to the high temperature, the polymer can quickly melt.
The hair dryer should have several nozzles and a smooth temperature control system that will allow you to set the desired mode when working with different types plastic.
When performing welding, you will also need a polymer rod designed to reinforce the crack. Its quantity and diameter are selected depending on the size of the deformed area.
More significant damage is eliminated by welding patches from a piece of plastic of suitable composition.
Insert into bucket plastic bag.
The small size of the crack will prevent water from flowing through the bag. If the bucket is stationary, then this is the best method in terms of simplicity and execution. This is how I repaired a plastic barrel. Instillation with molten polyethylene begins to flow when deformed.
I myself have not tried to seal plastic buckets, but I have seen how it is done. We take a regular plastic bag and use a soldering iron to seal the crack with this, smearing it. You can also do this with a piece of plastic using a soldering iron. At the dacha, they watered with such a bucket: the water did not leak.
Try to seal it with cold welding. If it holds water in the car radiator, then it will certainly hold plastic. But I tried to melt it somehow, it doesn’t work, some kind of plastic is now being produced wrong))) Excuse me previous authors.
So, how to fix a hole, a crack in a plastic bucket? I don’t know about soldering plastic, small holes in a plastic bucket can still be soldered somehow, but large cracks are unlikely to work well. There are other options for how to close up a crack in a plastic bucket, I don’t do such nonsense myself, so I read it on the forum. To do this, you need to take some extra piece of plastic, then put it in some kind of dish (but not in plastic), pour it with acetone, close the lid and wait a bit until the piece of plastic softens. Then add glue Moment and get it all done quickly.
And yet, in special stores liquid plastic is sold in tubes, it can also be used to close up a crack in a plastic bucket or whatever you have ...
Some advise applying epoxy to the degreased surface and fiberglass on top, and for reliability it is better to do this twice.
I would try in this situation to resort to the help of an ordinary soldering iron! Carefully soldering the crack on both sides!) True, molten plastic would not have a very beneficial effect on the sting of this device!)
Hardware stores sell so-called welding for plastic products. The surface to be sealed must be cleaned of dust, degreased with alcohol and dried thoroughly. After that, prepare welding: mix a small amount of the mixture according to the instructions and apply to the crack with neat, precise strokes. Level the seam with a knife or spatula, and allow time for shrinkage and drying. Do not deviate from the instructions, follow the safety precautions and everything will work out as it should.
I had such trouble with the basin. A hole formed and I burned it with a soldering iron. The plastic melted and sealed the hole. Has been serving for 4 years now. And also fixed a bucket in the country. I just plugged the hole with chewed gum and smeared it on the bottom. All the so-called repairs were done from the outside of the vessel. Everything lasts more than one year.
cold welding for plastic. Clean the surface of dust and dirt and dry. Mix the mixture for no more than 5-6 minutes with your fingers. It is better to wear gloves. Use a spatula to seal the seam in the bucket.
I once patched up a hole, a big one, in a plastic bucket with an old soldering iron. I picked up a piece of plastic that was suitable in terms of consistency and quality, and warming it up with a soldering iron, distributed it on the hole, starting with the edges, gradually, allowing it to harden. The only problem is that in this way overheated the plastic becomes more brittle. But for a while that was enough.
I think that if this is just a crack that has not yet spread and turned into a hole, you can simply run a soldering iron along the crack from the inside and from the outside. This should be enough to ensure strength, restore tightness)
I have tried sealing plastic items by melting and dripping on the damage. Thus, nothing could be glued. Then I just started soldering holes in plastic with a soldering iron. This method can help seal the hole.
take a mesh from, say, a car speaker, cut off the required size a little wider than the crack and solder it from the inside of the bucket so that the mesh is not soldered deep by about 1-2 mm. unsolder a small piece of another plastic above that place, as it were, fill this area and the mustache will hold water, and you can sit upside down.
Buckets, basins, barrels and other household equipment are made of plastic. This material is practical, easy to use, but short-lived.
Any drop or mechanical impact can lead to cracks. A container that passes water becomes useless. But seal plastic water container it is quite possible that she will serve well for some time.
It is quite possible to seal a plastic barrel at home. Consider two options for how to fix holes in plastic barrels and other containers.
Option 1
To work, you will need the following materials and tools:
- stainless mesh (you can take aluminum, copper),
- scissors,
- soldering iron 100 watts.
Operating procedure:
- Cut off a piece of mesh with scissors.
- We fix the mesh at the site of damage to the depth of the mesh thickness.
- We align it along the seam, moving along the entire plane. At the same time, we solder the mesh with a soldering iron in parallel, hold the free edge with a knife, immediately after soldering we cool it with a heat exchanger (knife) - this important rule so that the mesh does not bulge.
- We introduce the entire mesh into the seam using this method.
- At the end of the work, the seam is completely sealed and reinforced, which gives it a fortress.
- Repeat the process on the back side of the container.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
Option 2
If you have to repair a container with water under pressure, you can resort to another method.
For work you will need:
- flexible plastic patch
- building hair dryer,
- protective gloves.
Operating procedure:
- We wipe the area with damage, remove dirt.
- Start heating with a hair dryer low power so as not to burn a hole, a place with a defect.
- We heat the patch with a hair dryer from the side that will be adjacent to the crack. We heat already at a higher power.
- We apply a patch to the place of damage and continue to warm up with a hair dryer, adding more power. Wear protective gloves on your hands to avoid burns. It is important not to overheat the surface.
- We smooth the patch with our fingers and wait for it to cool. We pour water and check the quality of work.
Final sealing and smoothing of irregularities on a repaired plastic tank The first method proved to be the most effective in practice. The second is more suitable as a temporary measure.
How to seal a plastic tank or a barrel for water - the choice of an epoch
If the defect in the plastic container is small, you can use epoxy glue. A two-component epoxy adhesive will effectively solve the problem of a leaky plastic tank.
Highly resistant to moisture and chemicals, polymerizes in just 1 hour, non-flammable.
It is necessary to cut off the required amount of glue, knead with clean hands until a homogeneous mass is obtained, fashion a cone from it and insert it into the tank opening. Hold securely for a few minutes.
Then you need to wait 2 hours, after which the container can be operated.
Features of epoxy adhesive "Contact":
- restores the shape of products, and also hermetically fills voids,
- is not afraid of not only water, but also oils, solvents,
- the repaired tank can be used at temperatures from -40C to +150C,
- within 3-5 minutes, the adhesive can be corrected, and after an hour it can be cleaned, turned and subjected to other mechanical influences,
- The adhesive is sold ready to use.
The cost of this composition is from 150 rubles per pack of 50 g.
Also have similar properties adhesives "General Purpos Permapoxy PERMATEX"(from 314 rubles for 25 ml) and "Plastic Weld Permapoxy PERMATEX" (from 320 rubles for 25 ml).
You can buy epoxy adhesives in most construction stores as well as via the Internet.
Since old, worn-out containers are most often used for irrigation, they can leak very quickly. But they can still be made suitable for storing water for many years if the hole is repaired.
To do this, a bucket or barrel that has leaked from rust can simply be sealed - just like a car wheel. First, the leaking metal barrel is freed from water and dried in the sun. Then the rust is cleaned from the outside with an emery cloth or a metal brush. This is done carefully so as not to widen the hole. Then a piece of rubber is cut out of an old car or bicycle tube and glued with Moment glue or another waterproof glue. And from the inside, for greater reliability, the hole is smeared with garden pitch, which cannot damage the plants.
Smolim
But if the hole is large, then it is better to tar the barrel. To do this, the rust is cleaned with an emery cloth or a metal brush and a layer of resin is applied to this place. Then it is necessary to put a piece of durable matter on the newly tarred hole and apply another layer of resin. It becomes viscous when heated and adheres well to iron. It would be even better to carefully tar such a barrel on both sides.
For prevention, all iron buckets, even new ones, especially their bottoms from the inside along the seam, must be smeared with garden pitch. This will significantly extend the life of the tank.
We seal with clay
And a metal barrel with a heavily perforated bottom can also serve as a reliable water reservoir in the garden for a long time. To do this, where it will stand, it is necessary to remove the sod and pour an even layer of oily clay 8-10 cm thick into the resulting recess.
Then you need to pour water on the clay and press the barrel with force into this wet layer. Then you need to pour clay on the bottom of the barrel and also tamp it well. Now you can safely use the resulting reliable water storage tank.
For plastic - silicone
If a plastic container is leaky, it can be repaired by sealing it with silicone adhesive-sealant. To do this, the surface outside is very well degreased with ordinary dishwashing detergent. Then it must be thoroughly washed off and a thick layer of silicone adhesive-sealant should be applied to the surface.
After the acetic acid has eroded from the silicone, the repair site will look like a “welded” piece of rubber. By the way, this patch is very, very durable.
Without bottom and "tire"
Housing of the old metal barrel without bottom and lid can be successfully used as a waste incinerator on garden plot. In addition to this barrel, it is necessary to make a metal grate from steel rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm, which are fastened with wire.
Then, on the prepared site, it is necessary to install brick columns 3-4 bricks high, put a grate on them, install a barrel on it and pour garbage into it from above. To “start” the stove on the ground, make a fire between the brick columns under the grate. It quickly ignites the garbage in the barrel, which, due to strong traction, burns so well that even green weed grass burns.
And when the bottom of the barrel becomes like a sieve, then it can be turned over, and the garden "blast" furnace will work fine again.
Valery Grigoryevich Shafransky, Yekaterinburg