Redcurrant differs from blackcurrant in terms of fruiting: its fruit buds are formed on perennial shoots and at the base of annual branches. Bushes of red and white currants have much less zero-order shoots than black currants, they are less thickened and bear fruit much longer - 15-20 years. Bouquet twigs and kolchatka, on which flower buds are laid, live 2-3 times longer than those of black currant. The distribution of berries over the bush is more uniform; with age, the crop does not shift to the periphery of the crown. So red and white currant need less pruning.
Periodically, only zero-order shoots need to be removed (occasionally in the first years, and from 6-7 years old - every season in the fall). At the same time, one-year increments of other orders cannot be cut. Before flowering, try to cut off damaged branches (dry, frozen, affected by pests).
- For 7 years of development of the bush, red currant forms up to 25 branches. Therefore, from the seventh year, 3-4 oldest branches are removed every year, leaving 3-4 young shoots instead.
- Fruit buds on red currant bushes are formed in tiers mainly in the upper part. So from the age of two, the ends of the branches cannot be cut off.
- In young bushes, the ends of the branches are cut so that 3-4 buds remain above the ground.
- Every year, weak, diseased, low-lying, broken and old (more than 8 years) branches should be cut.
- To prevent thickening, from the 6th year it is necessary to remove all unnecessary annual root shoots.
Varieties of red and white currants
Compared to black, there are very few varieties of red and white currants. In terms of winter hardiness, they are excellent for growing in the northern regions:- Exhibition red,
- Versailles white,
- Houghton Castle,
- dutch red,
- star of the north
- Dawn of the Arctic,
- Faya fertile,
- Svetlana,
- Erstling Aus Vierlanden.
Varieties of red currant
- Gazelle. Mid-early variety, medium-sized berries with a sweet-sour taste.
- Versailles red. The variety is early in terms of maturation. Very popular in the Baltics. His bush is undersized, wrinkled large-lobed foxes. Large fruits have a slightly acidic taste. The yield is high.
- dutch red. Extremely unpretentious to the conditions. The variety is long-lived, able to bear fruit up to 30 years. Average yield.
- Houghton Castle. Maturity is average. Vigorous bush with brown shoots. Sweet and sour fruits medium size. The variety is very winter hardy.
- Red Cross. Variety English, very common in the territory former USSR. Excellent for growing in the northern regions of Kazakhstan. Medium-sized sprawling bushes with large (up to 1 g) bright red berries good taste. The yield is average.
- Natalie. In terms of maturity, the variety is medium-late. Very fruitful.
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Varieties of white currant
- Diamond (White Fairy). Dense, slightly spreading bushes of medium size. Very tasty transparent berries of average size. Up to 5 kg of berries can be removed from one bush. It is slightly damaged by pests and diseases.
- Versailles white. Mid-late maturity. Medium-sized bushes produce tasty, medium-sized transparent yellowish berries. The average yield is up to 3 kg per bush. The variety is resistant to anthracnose and has low winter hardiness.
- Dutch white. The ripening period is medium, the bushes are medium in size, the berries are sour, white with a tan. The variety is winter-hardy, slightly affected by fungi.
- Smolyaninovskaya. Maturity is average. Vigorous spreading bushes with a rare crown. High disease resistance. White transparent berries with a pleasant taste are large, the brush is long. They remain on the bushes for a long time, while not losing their taste properties. From one bush you can remove from 4 to 9 kg of berries.
You can choose whitecurrant seedlings in our catalog, which presents products from various online stores.
It gives a much larger yield than, it is more durable, less demanding on growing conditions, suffers less from bud mites and terry. Therefore, experts recommend allocating up to 10% of the land area that you have planned for all berry crops for growing red currants.
At the same time, you need to know that red currants will be easier to grow if they grow in open, well-lit places. Also, redcurrant prefers well-aerated, light sandy or loamy and loose soils. The soil that does not dry for a long time in the spring will not suit her. It is better to plant it in low beds. But a slightly acidic soil with a pH in the range of 6.0 - 6.5 or neutral soil is very suitable for her.
Soil cultivation.
Before planting bushes, the soil must be dug up to a depth of 40 cm, the roots must be selected. The width of the pit for planting is about 60 cm. Compost or rotted manure at the rate of 8-10 kg mixed with potassium sulfate at the rate of 50-60 g and double superphosphate - 30-50 g should be added to the pit for planting currants.
Landing.
Before planting, it is better to remove from the seedling all the buds that you see between the roots and all the buds and shoots on the stem, 15 cm above the roots.
When planting, bury the seedling in the same way as you did so that. Cut out weak shoots, and leave only a few of the strong ones, shortening them to half the length, leaving 5 buds each. Pruning is done on the kidney, which is directed up and out of the bush. From these new branches, the frame of the bush will form.
At the very beginning of summer, shorten those shoots that do not participate in the formation of the bush to 10 cm, and in the fall, re-forming the bush, repeat the pruning.
Pruning.
If blackcurrant needs to renew fruiting branches every 3 years, then redcurrant branches are replaced after 7-8 years.
Large-scale pruning of red currant branches is recommended either in early spring or late autumn. slices large diameter must be covered with garden pitch. And try not to damage 2 - 3 cm of twigs with buds.
Those branches that grow too low or too far or interfere with others by intersecting with them are cut off.
side shoots that do not form a bush, shorten to 5 - 7 cm. Trim strong shoots to a bud pointing outside the bush.
Cut in half the young shoots on the main branches. To do this, cut them to the kidney, which is directed outward and up the bush.
In July-August, you can pinch the unnecessary tops of soft green shoots. This will activate the “bush work” and allow the redcurrant bush to grow other shoots with an abundance of buds.
Preparation of cuttings.
In autumn, woody cuttings should be cut. Trim at the base of the shoots to the first bud and a thin tip above the strong bud. In this case, the length of the cutting should not exceed 25 - 30 cm. Leave only 4 buds at the top and plant the cuttings vertically in the ground. At the same time, note that between the ground and the lower kidney was about 12 - 15 cm.
Fertilizer.
To grow red currants that bear fruit well for 15 years, you need to apply mineral and organic fertilizers under the bush every year.
In spring or autumn, per 1 sq. m. you need to make 25 grams of potassium sulfate, 20 grams of superphosphate and half a bucket of compost. Apply potassium chloride in the fall so as not to harm the bush. Additionally, in the spring, ammonium nitrate should be added at the rate of 25 grams per 1 sq. m. or urea at the rate of 15 grams per 1 sq.m.
The applied fertilizers should be sealed and loosened under the bush, and dig outside the crown, but without damaging the roots of the bush. After the bush has faded, fertilize with a mixture of 1 kg of bird droppings and 1 kg of cowshed, diluted with 30 liters of water.
Watering.
Although redcurrants need less watering than blackcurrants, they need to be supported during dry periods. Especially she needs such help during the period of formation of ovaries and pouring berries. Good watering at this time is a guarantee that you will be able to grow good harvest with quality berries. Watering the bushes can be combined with its top dressing by making shallow grooves around the bushes with a chopper. When watering the bushes, try not to splash their branches.
Redcurrant care includes: watering, mulching, pruning, top dressing and pest and disease control.
Watering red currant
Proper watering of red currants is the key to a rich harvest. Although the red-eyed beauty is not as demanding on moisture as blackcurrant species, the lack of water has a bad effect on the growth of pets, their development and fruiting.
Usually, each redcurrant bush needs 2-3 waterings for the whole summer (with soil moisture up to half a meter). To find out if a plant needs water, dig the soil under the bushes. If the soil is dry at the bottom, watering is needed.
When growing currants, young bushes are especially in need of drinking, with dry summer season they need to be watered more often.
Currants urgently need watering during the formation and growth of berries and shoots (this is the month of June). Also, the plant needs plenty of water after harvest (August-September). 
Mulching red currants
In order to preserve moisture in the soil, mulching should be widely practiced, especially in the southern regions. To do this, in the spring, after the first treatment, the soil surface is covered with leaves, peat or straw manure with a layer of 6-8 cm. enough mulching materials they cover the entire area of row spacing. If these materials are not enough, then they mulch in rows, only strips about 1 m wide. Weeds breaking through the mulch are weeded out in a timely manner. Experiments show that as a result of soil mulching, the yield of currants almost doubles. 
Red currant pruning
Currant bushes, like any other plants, inevitably grow old. Pruning will help update the culture. Pruning is carried out in the fall. Shoots are radically shortened, no more than 4 buds should remain. Next year, you need to carefully examine the bush and leave the three or four strongest root shoots. The weak must be mercilessly disposed of.
As many years of experience in the cultivation of red currant shows, shoots no older than 5 years have the best yield. If the bush is older - it's time to start rejuvenating. Every year it is desirable to cut at least three old branches. If the plant is already very old, you can resort to radical way- completely cut down the bush. The root will give new replacement shoots, which replace the old currant. Such a radical pruning can be carried out even in summer. 
Red currant nutrition
When fertilizing a crop, it must be borne in mind that currants are sensitive to chlorine. Specific doses depend on soil fertility. As already noted, at present, one-time application (refueling) of phosphorus and potash fertilizers up to 500 kg/ha. active ingredient followed by annual application of nitrogen fertilizers 60-100 kg/ha. d.c.
Strip deep fertilization is also used - once every 3-4 years, the soil is plowed in the aisles to make furrows 25-30 cm deep. When the content in the humus horizon is 30 mg. mobile phosphorus and 25-30 mg. potassium, these fertilizers are not necessary for currants. The optimal ratio in the leaves for the fruiting of blackcurrant of the main nutrients is: N - 2.9, P205-0.60, K20-2.0% on dry matter.
This conclusion was reached by many researchers involved in sheet diagnostics. The average removal of nutrients during the harvest of blackcurrant berries is 70 centners/ha. is equal to: N - 97.6 kg, P205 - 46.2 kg, K20 - 79.6 kg / ha. Nice results give and foliar top dressing currants; before flowering - with a solution of urea at a concentration of 0.3%, superphosphate (0.2%) and potassium sulfate (0.3%), Then spraying is repeated along the green ovary, respectively, at concentrations of 0.6; 3; 0.8%. Foliar top dressing with microelements - solutions of salts of iodine, molybdenum and cobalt are especially effective. 
Prevention of the appearance of diseases and pests of red currant
If they do appear - do not start with a "chemical bombardment" of your site, but try manual pest removal methods. Can also be applied folk remedies, and against fungal diseases - biological preparations. A good non-toxic option, such as green soap. 
And only if these methods did not bring results, and the situation worsens, you can use chemical agents.
Diseases of red currant and their control
Like other species, red currants are susceptible to fungal and viral diseases. The most dangerous among them is terry. This is a very insidious virus, as it develops, it changes the appearance of the bush and leads to currant infertility. Most often, it affects blackcurrants, but since the carrier is a bud mite that also settles on red, bushes with scarlet berries are also not immune from it. If no signs of a kidney mite were found on the currant, then the virus was transferred from planting material or through infected gardening Tools. Reversion - Terry is popular name- does not develop in one year, and the longer the infected bush remains in place, the higher the risk of disease of other plants.
Another common virus is the striped mosaic virus. On the leaves of an infected plant, along the veins, appears bright pattern, gradually filling the entire surface of the sheet. This leads to a decrease and complete absence of yield, and death of the plant. As with terry, the bush with the virus is uprooted and burned.
Pests of red currant and their control
Currant goldfish. The larvae of this beetle pest prefer to feed on the core of redcurrant branches. At the shoot, which has undergone damage, the apex dries up, which in short time covers the entire run. As a result of this, the fruiting of the currant bush is weakened, and the berries themselves become small. 
The larvae of the currant beetle hibernate inside the shoot, which has been damaged. They have a flattened shape that is widened near the head. They begin to pupate right on the run. Young bugs emerge from the shoot in late spring and early summer. A week after departure, the females begin to lay eggs directly on the bark of young shoots, as well as on leaf petioles.
They cover their eggs with their secretions, which subsequently harden on the bark and turn into a hard oval shield. Then, on average, two weeks after oviposition, the larvae begin to emerge from the eggs, which immediately bite into the shoot and feed on its core, as well as on the wood itself.
Measures against currant borer include cutting and subsequent burning of shoots, as well as timely pruning of currant bushes in the phase of dormant buds. Careful selection of planting material should be made.
Gooseberry sawfly. There are 2 types of gooseberry sawfly - yellow and pale-footed. Their larvae, hidden in dense cocoons, hibernate under currant and gooseberry bushes at a depth of 10-12 cm. In early spring, they pupate and, by the time of flowering, adults fly out, resembling small wasps. The females lay their eggs along the main leaf veins. reverse side. Soon the caterpillars appear and begin to eat the leaves.
In the pale-legged sawfly, they are one-color-green, in the false caterpillars of the yellow sawfly, the body is covered with black warts.
Podzimnaya digging the ground around the bushes will destroy some of the wintering larvae. After flowering, the caterpillars can be harvested by hand. Good results are obtained by treatment with insecticides - Decis and Inta-Vir.
For planting red currants, a site with a low standing of groundwater is suitable - the powerful root system of the plant allows you to do this. This shrub easily tolerates drought, but long-term stagnation of spring water or moisture after summer rains, as well as the presence of cold winds, is undesirable for it. Therefore, you can plant red currants on any gentle slopes and on flat areas, with the exception of lowlands, and you also need to choose open sunny areas for it, protected from the northern winds. Planting red currants in the shade will deprive the gardener of most of the crop.
Red currant is tolerant to different types soils, but shows the highest productivity on slightly acidic or neutral soils, fertilized loamy and sandy loamy areas. If the acidity of the soil is increased (horsetail, mosses, sedge, sorrel grow on it), the area must be limed before planting. To do this, it is permissible to use fluffy lime, dolomite flour or crushed limestone. These minerals are applied directly to the planting hole.
Planting currants can be carried out in early spring before the start of sap flow or in autumn, from the second half of September to early October. If the seedling is purchased in a store, you must first place it in cold water for 2-3 hours, this will allow the roots to make an additional supply of moisture in the tissues and help the plant take root faster. You can add a solution of "Heteroauxin" or "Kornevin" to the water, in accordance with the instructions indicated on the package.
The dimensions of the landing pit should be 50x50 cm, depth - 60 cm. root system red currant is more powerful than other shrubs, therefore it requires large area nutrition. For each planting hole, you will need 2-3 buckets of humus, 200 g of superphosphate, 500 ml wood ash. This nutrient mixture should be mixed with the ground, pour 2/3 parts into the planting hole and arrange in the form of a mound, on which the seedling should be carefully placed. Then the roots need to be covered with the remaining soil and compact the void. If the root neck is exposed, you need to add earth to the roots. From above, the plant must be thoroughly shed with water and mulched with dry peat. The branches of the seedling after planting should be cut to 1/3 of their length to help the plant take root.
Before the onset of cold weather, planted plants should be covered with earth or mulched with a thick layer of humus or peat to protect them from freezing. With the onset of spring, the bushes will need to be unraveled. As the plant grows, it will be necessary to gradually change the old branches to new replacement shoots and thin out the bush, preventing its shading. Sick, damaged and weak branches should also be cut. To do this, it is advisable to use a sharp pruner, remove the branches “on the ring”, i.e. without leaving a hemp, and cover the sections with garden pitch to avoid the penetration of pathogens and pests into the wounds. Twice a season: After bud break and harvest, plants should be fed with a complete mineral or organic fertilizer- this will positively affect the quality and quantity of the harvest of berries.
Related article
Blackcurrant, like any other garden crop, has its own lifespan. She gives the first harvest a few years after planting. Then, in the course of 5-6 years, the yield increases and lasts for several more years. Then the plant "retires", and the yield drops sharply. The gardener is faced with the question of whether to continue caring for obsolete bushes or plant young plant.
You will need
- - young blackcurrant bush
- - shovel
- - watering can
- - secateurs
- - fertilizer, for example, nitrophoska
Instruction
Let's prepare the landing hole.
We dig a hole with a shovel about 40 cm high and wide. Then we fill the hole 3/4 with good fertile soil, mixing it with fertilizers.
We do not use fresh manure.
The currant bush should be healthy, with well-developed roots, have 2-3 main ramifications (branches).
Before planting, it is a good idea to prune the roots a little to stimulate the good development of young roots in the future.
We take the seedling by the root collar, carefully place it in landing pit with a slope of 45o. We straighten the roots, fall asleep with soil. At the same time, the currant seedling should be slightly swayed from side to side so that the earth evenly fills all the voids between the roots.
There should be no voids between the roots. This will have a bad effect on further survival.
It is necessary to plant a bush 5-7 cm lower than it grew, deepening the root neck into the soil.
This will create Better conditions for additional development of roots and the appearance of renewal shoots from dormant underground buds, the part that was buried, namely, from part of the stem and root collar.
Unlike other crops, currants are not afraid of deep planting.
Redcurrants are easy to care for and the bushes produce a rich harvest. You can make various desserts, compotes, jams, etc. from berries.
Planting red currant
It is necessary to plant currants at the end of summer or at the beginning of autumn. Biennial and annual seedlings are planted at a distance of one and a half to two meters, both along the fences and on summer cottages. On the latter, the bushes are placed in several rows, between which a two-meter distance is left.
In order for currant bushes to grow and bear fruit safely, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil (loosen, fertilize, water).
It is preferable to plant bushes on small hills. In the lowlands, water usually accumulates, which can flood the bushes. Try to expand the planting away from trees and buildings, as redcurrants love sunny places.
Prepare holes with a diameter of at least a meter, after which put eight to ten kilograms of manure into each of them, and also add a mixture of potassium sulfate, wood ash, and superphosphate. If you plant currants in acidic soil, then add some ground limestone to it.
The process itself has its own nuances. For example, the tips of the roots of a seedling need to be trimmed and dipped in a mixture of mullein or clay so that they are securely fixed in the soil.
The neck of the root should be deepened slightly, by about five centimeters, no more, but when twitching, the bush should not come out of the ground. After planting, it is necessary to water the soil near the shrubs and cut their top at a height of about twenty centimeters from the ground.
In summer cottages, currants are planted along fences at a distance of one and a half meters. Can also be planted on separate area. The distance between seedlings is two meters.
Currants are planted strictly vertically. The neck of the root should be flush with the soil. The plant tolerates the carbonate content of the soil, so it can be planted in such areas.
Currants are watered from the ratio of one bucket to 2-3 bushes. After watering, fertilizer is poured around the bushes - peat or humus.
For creating favorable conditions development of plants every year the soil near them is dug up. This makes it easier for water to get inside to feed the roots. In spring, loosen the soil and remove weeds.
To get rid of weeds, you need to regularly mulch. Mulch is applied immediately after the first loosening. The soil at this time contains the necessary supply of water.
Manure, sawdust, peat or straw are poured under the bushes. The layer of mulch should be from four to fifteen centimeters. After cultivation, the soil remains loose throughout the summer.
On a note:
If you plant currants in the fall, then place them next to different varieties. This will provide cross-pollination, which will have a beneficial effect on yields.
Varieties of red currant
Assora
The bush is spreading. Its height is one and a half meters. Berries of medium size, light red. Average number of seeds. Late variety.
Buzhanskaya
The height of the bush is one and a half meters. Grows straight, very productive. The berries are bright red in color, with a thin skin, they are large in size. Clusters of various lengths. The taste of berries is sweet and sour. They ripen at the same time and practically do not crumble to the ground.
Valentinovka
Quite a tall bush - from 1.4 to 1.9 meters, grows straight, the leaves are thick. The weight of the berries is 0.5 g, small, one-dimensional, red. The seeds are large and quite numerous. The size of the brushes is more than ten centimeters. Hang evenly. Berries taste sour. Ripen in late July - early August. From one bush you can collect up to three and a half kilograms of berries.
Natalie
Weakly sprawling, dense bush of one and a half meters in length. Large berries, weighing up to one gram. In shape, they are slightly elongated towards the base. Color - deep red. Few seeds, all of medium length. The length of the brush is about eight centimeters. It can be either more or less. The taste, like many berries, is sweet and sour.
The ripening period falls in mid-July. Harvest from a bush - up to eight kilograms. The berries are delicious.
Leader
The average period of ripening of berries. The bush is slightly sprawling, one and a half meters. The weight of the berries is up to one gram, they are round in shape, with a thin skin, red in color. Seeds are small and small.
The brush is longer than the previous species - up to thirteen millimeters. The taste of berries is sweet. Ripens early to mid-July. From one bush you can collect about three kilograms of crop.
Viksne
Berries ripen early. The spreading bush reaches a height of up to 1.8 meters. Its shape is wrong. Berries have a cherry color, their size is medium. There are very few seeds, but they are quite large in size.
The taste is very pleasant, delicate, sweet and sour. The berry ripens in late June - early July. The currant bush can be affected by the red-gall aphid. From one bush you can collect up to five kilograms of berries.
Vika
Berries ripen early. The height of the bush is up to one and a half meters, thick, upright.
The berries are medium in size, purple-red in color. There are enough seeds, the skin on the berries is thin. The brush is dense, hangs beautifully, its length can be more than ten millimeters. The taste of berries is sweet and sour, and the proportion of sweet is higher. Currant ripens at the end of July.
Dutch pink
Compact bush, one and a half meters high with large berries Pink colour. The number of seeds is average, the skin of the berries is thin. From one bush you can collect up to five kilograms of crop.
The brush is quite long, the berries growing on it are very tasty. Beginning of ripening - mid-July.
Darnitsa
The height of the bush is up to 1.8 meters. Berries are large, dark red. Average number of seeds. Many people like it. Berries ripen in mid-July. Currant bush is resistant to disease.
Generous
Powerful, dense, wide bush up to two meters in height. The shape of the berries is slightly elongated, their color is translucent, bright red. The seeds are large, but very few. The brush is the shortest of the options presented - only six centimeters. The taste of berries is pleasant, moderately sour.
Ripening occurs at the end of June - beginning of July. Flowers fall off due to frost damage. Unfortunately, the plant is not resistant to other diseases.
Konstantinovskaya
Weakly sprawling one and a half meter, dense bush. Berries different sizes– medium to large, slightly laterally compressed and slightly glossy. Seeds are small and medium in size.
The brush is dense, reaches a length of nine centimeters. The berries taste sweet and sour, ripen in mid-July. From the bush you can harvest four kilograms of the crop. Bush do not "take" fungal diseases and aphids.
Dream
Vigorous bush, up to two meters in height, dense. Berries of red color of different sizes, both large and medium. The brush is hanging down, up to seven millimeters in length. Berries are sweet and sour. Berries ripen in the middle of summer, from one bush they can be collected up to seven kilograms. The bush can be partially affected by powdery mildew.
Now you know some types of red currants, from more than fifty, and how to care for them.