It is the 21st century, and more and more the older generation complains that young people are carried away by various gadgets and cannot spend time without them, that desk books and games have sunk into oblivion. But this is far from the case, and in modern world board games are gaining more and more turnover. They have very significant advantages. Firstly, it is always a lot of fun to spend your free time with them, and secondly, they can be classified as gifts that will definitely not be dead weight. In this article we will tell you how to make backgammon with your own hands, photos will help you decide on the right option products.
Plywood product
This master class is more likely for men, but lovely ladies may not be upset, as you can also try to make backgammon, but under the strict guidance of a male.
So, to create we need:
- maple or walnut veneer;
- plywood with a thickness of at least 6 mm;
- brass screws;
- necessary working tools;
- sawing machine;
- magnets;
- patterns in pictures for decoration;
- perseverance and hard work;
- good mood.
After you have prepared everything you need according to the list, you can get to work.
The most important thing is to prepare the veneer. Measure with a ruler of maple and walnut stocks measuring 3.8 x 19.1 cm. Cut carefully. Now it is necessary to make the upper plates, the dimensions of which are 3.8 by 25.4 cm and the lower 5.1 by 25.4 cm. This is done by sawing out from 13 mm of wood.
Measure a distance of 250 mm from the ends of the upper plates and make mounting holes. Their diameter should be about 4 cm. Unform the veneer strips in 15 pieces. You should have four stacks.
Align them carefully around the edges and clamp them between the bottom and top plates. Use brass screws to secure the top plates firmly. Now you need a sawing machine. You need to walk along each edge of the bag. Better to take 60 teeth. Now unfold the bag in the opposite direction and press it with a straight edge against the longitudinal stop. File the second edge of the bag with the machine. You should be 33mm wide.
Repeat the entire algorithm with the remaining packets. Stick the strips with tape on all sides of the bag and saw off the marked end, while shortening the bag by 20 cm.
Take note! To make it easier, use a miter fence that is rotated 5 degrees.
Do the same for the rest of the packages.
Put new marks: 32 mm at the end and 165 mm on the side of the package, saw off the veneer package. What are backgammon without ornament. Take a strip of veneer, it is necessary to align the pattern. Assemble the square of the field and glue light and dark triangles alternately with oil tape.
When you count 6 dark and 7 light triangles in your field, then the square is complete. Make 3 more squares and remove the tape. Take two pieces of maple veneer, attach and align.
Follow the entire algorithm for the design of the ornament for the second side of the backgammon. Cut off the pieces of the playing field so that the width is 191 mm. Make side bumpers out of maple and glue to the base with glue. Make 4 slabs and 2 bases from MDF. Apply glue to the base and lay a sheet on top. Press the bag between MDF boards (2 cm thick). Check the field for evenness, if necessary, trim playing field.
Fasten the 6 mm cutter to the machine. Rout all sides. Stick on the playing field. Set up the saw blade 32mm wide and split the box in two, cut out 2 partitions. Do the same for the short dividers. Make a blank for the hinges on one half and drill 4 holes with a diameter of 1 cm. Grind all blanks thoroughly and cover with varnish.
Our backgammon is ready!
A little about other materials
Backgammon is made not only of plywood, but wooden and plexiglass. Despite the fact that the Plexiglas option is a feasible task, it requires professionalism and care to the greatest extent. Most importantly, you need to cut the plexiglass correctly. For precise slicing, there are little tricks, for example, such as “ hot knife»And adapted shapes. For each master, the selection of the instrument is individual, since what is convenient for some may be completely inappropriate for others. But you need to clearly understand that these are not toys and not an idle hobby, since glass processing is 160 degrees.
Board games will never go out of style. So backgammon does not lose its popularity among different age categories. This game has been known for many generations, and few people know that the first mentions of it date back to about 3000 BC. in the East. Today backgammon is given to relatives, friends and colleagues, and it is quite easy to buy them. Another thing is to do it yourself and surprise a person. Someone may think that it is difficult and not given to everyone, but this is not so.
Manufacturing technology at home
IN standard kit Backgammon includes 2 playing fields, 30 chips and 2 dice. Board size in closed 50x26.5 cm. Backgammon opens like chess boards.
For manufacturing you will need:
Now about the process of making backgammon with your own hands:
- The plywood needs to be sanded to remove any irregularities.
- Having chosen a presentable pattern for the inner walls of the backgammon, you need to carefully fix it and put a carbon copy to draw out the contours. For aesthetics, they should be small and visually aligned.
- Now we need to burn out the outlines of the images on the future playing fields.
- You can start decorating the outside of the backgammon. Here you can burn a larger and more interesting drawing. Also, if desired, both sides can be painted, or one - "front" can be made.
- When the contours are burned out, you can start painting the images with a 2-layer stain.
- It is necessary to make 8 slats about 1 cm thick, 2.5 cm wide (4 pieces - 26 cm long and another 4 - 50 cm) and grind.
- Reiki for curly planks - you need 4 pieces. Their length should be 21.5 cm. 6 sockets should be sawn out on each plank with a radius of 15.5 mm. And again all the slats need to be sanded.
- Now glue all the parts in their places, sawing the parts. Then the nest areas are lined.
- Everything is varnished. And then the loops are inserted.
Dear colleagues. Today I would like to talk about backgammon and carving the game board.
Backgammon is an ancient oriental game. The birthplace of this game is unknown, but it is known that people have been playing this game for more than 5000 years, for which there is historical evidence. The oldest backgammon board was found in Asia Minor (in Shahri-Sukhta) and dates back to about 3000 BC. An analogue of this game was found in the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamun. One of the legends testifies that once the Indians, wanting to check the intelligence of the Persians, sent them a set of chess, believing that they would not guess how to play this wise game. However, the Persian sage Bozorgmehr not only easily coped with this task, but also offered his own, which the Indians could not solve for 12 years. Buzurkmehr invented and sent to his opponents new game- backgammon (backgammon ottoman - battle on a wooden board). IN Western Europe the spread of the game is associated with the return of the crusaders from the crusades of the 12th century. The game became very popular in medieval Europe and was called Trick-truck. This name, apparently, came from the sound of the impact of bones about wooden board... At that time, the word "backgammon" coexisted to refer to the game of kings. Only representatives of the highest aristocracy had the privilege of playing backgammon.
According to the Eastern tradition, the board for playing backgammon has always been richly decorated: carving, inlay, painting. Backgammon is also very popular in our time. This is confirmed by the number of views of the boards for the game on our site.
Meanwhile, for the most part, this is a classic flat-relief carving, which is quite within the power of novice carvers. For them, the master class, I think, will represent greatest interest... Half of the success of carving a game board lies in a well-chosen design. Most widespread received floral ornaments- arabesques.
I deliberately leave the joinery part of the board production behind the scenes, this is a job for carpenters. Let's go directly to the carving.
Before us are alder panels veneered with ash on one side. If you are going to veneer the panels yourself, it is worth remembering that if you apply the veneer only on one side, then as the glue dries, the panel will bend towards the veneer. To avoid such a result, on the other hand, ordinary paper (newspaper) is glued, therefore, when the glue dries, deformation does not occur. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the panels lie on the packaging polyethylene "with pimples": it perfectly protects the product from damage during operation. It should be laid with the smooth side facing the workpiece. Otherwise, chips will be trapped between bubbles and may damage the surface. As a result, an "unpleasant surprise" may emerge during toning. There is only one drawback to using this polyethylene ... you can get carried away with popping bubbles and spend the whole day mediocre ...
We transfer the drawing to the workpiece using a carbon copy. In this case, only a quarter of the drawing is drawn (the printer is broken). Better to have it right away finished drawing on the whole plane. This will eliminate the distortion of the symmetry of the picture, which is very important in this case.
After transferring the drawing with a carbon copy, we correct it by hand.
We proceed to sampling the background for the thread. There are two ways here: the first classic - cutting with a knife along the contour of the pattern, followed by sampling the background with flat chisels (it is necessary to clarify that the knife in this case should enter the wood clearly at 90 degrees). If it is not possible to maintain the perpendicularity of the knife to the workpiece, then you can slightly fill it up at an arbitrary angle away from the leaves of the ornament, further, when working out the thread, correcting the drawing distorted because of this. The second way is to select a background using hand router and a "finger" cutter, in this case I did just that. The advantages of this method are the speed, the exact 90 degrees along the edge of the ornament, the background selection around all the elements is clearly performed at the same level. Hands do not get tired in the laborious process of background selection. Of the minuses: the need for a router, and the impossibility of using it at home due to noise and dust.
So, the "rough" background is chosen to a depth of 5 mm; as you can see, there are places where the cutter did not reach, we remove them with a knife and flat chisels.
Here you should strictly follow the rules given in the first method of background sampling. Nobody canceled the work with hands.
It's time to get familiar with necessary kits tool: a jamb knife, preferably with the sharpest angle to its edge from all your arsenal. Flat chisels 1, 2, 3, 5, 10 mm. In my case, they are made from sharpened Soviet files. Semicircular chisels 6, 9 mm.
After the background is selected in all hard-to-reach places, we begin the study of the ornament. Let's start with the bottom and top edges of the panel. We cut with a knife the points of intersection of the details of the ornament with each other to a depth of 2-3 mm, revealing the upper and lower points of the ornament, we cut it with a flat chisel. Thus intertwining the ornament.
Cut as shown in the figure. The red line is wrong, the green line is right.
The result of our actions: the ornament looks like this.
We draw our vision of future drawing profiles.
Using a knife or flat chisels (whichever is more convenient for anyone), we first form the convex part of the profile.
Then, with the help of semicircular chisels, concave profiles.
As a result, the ornament looks like this.
We repeat the operations with the central element of the ornament.
We work through the whole drawing again, correcting in more detail all the deficiencies we noticed.
Now you can start mutating the background. We start by "piercing the background" around all the carved elements, achieving a graphical image. For this I use a simple sharpened screw. Not aesthetically pleasing, but cheap and practical. You can also use different punches for this.
Then we continue to "prick" the entire remaining background.
We admire the result obtained. Thread on this stage finished and you can start finishing works... For toning were chosen water stains... I usually use one color diluted to three tones: light, medium and dark. Two types of wood were used in this work, and in order to emphasize their merits of each of them, two stain colors were used: Dark oak and Teak. Teak - for ash. Dark oak (thinned three tones) for alder.
First, the carved panel is tinted. We cover all the threads with the lightest dye. Then, until the stain is all dry, apply a medium tone to the milled edges of the panel. The next step: go to the background - the most dark tone... You should be careful and try to apply the dark tone as carefully as possible. So that the dye does not hit the light areas of the thread, we begin to paint over from the center of the selected background area, approaching the towering thread elements with a minimum amount of dye on the brush. Let the work dry, and open the ash veneer on the other side - with Teak stain. With the same stain we open the joinery elements of the backgammon board.
After the stain has dried, remove the raised pile with a sandpaper (you can use an old rubbed skin). Or, as I used in this case, Indasa RHYNO SPONGE is a special flexible abrasive on foamed polyurethane coated with aluminum oxide, tear-resistant. Ideal for finishing, primers and varnishes and processing in hard-to-reach places (I will post the photo later). The main thing is not to damage the stain on the sharp edges left on the thread after working with chisels.
We evaluate the result and cover the work with varnish. For such works I use a two-component matt varnish. We look at the finished backgammon.
Backgammon is very fun and pretty popular game, which is played both for money and for the sake of the process itself. However, buying real quality backgammon can cost a lot. But it will be much more pleasant to make backgammon with your own hands, which will then be doubly more pleasant to play. Homemade backgammon, made with a soul from high-quality materials, with beautiful patterns, it will not be a shame to donate at all.
At the moment, in view of the huge opportunities that modernity provides us, you can easily find all necessary information, which will fully reveal all the features of how to make backgammon with your own hands. In order to make backgammon, as a rule, hard types of wood are used, such as oak, for example. Boards must be of high quality, which were stored in accordance with all the rules and requirements. Indeed, the quality and service life of the product itself depends on the quality of the material. The thickness of the boards must be at least five centimeters. You should not purchase undried boards, as they can deform, and the product can then lose its appearance. If non-dried boards are nevertheless purchased, then they must undergo proper processing before proceeding with the direct manufacture of the product. That is, the boards must be pre-dried.
So, after the material is purchased, you should start the manufacturing process itself. There are many options for how to make backgammon. You can make backgammon, you can resort to sawing into thin planks, which are then assembled into a flat board for the playing field. It is customary to decorate the external wooden field with a carved pattern. Wood carving can be done manually or by means of a milling machine, which will allow you to make many of the same elements.
When the frame itself is ready, as well as the playing fields, everything should be covered with protective impregnations, tinted, and then varnished. After that, you need to carefully polish the backgammon surface and again varnish. After backgammon are collected, they should lie down for several days after which the playing field can be covered with the necessary paints. After that, the process of grinding and varnishing is repeated. After applying the final layer of varnish, it is necessary to withstand backgammon for several days to completely absorb the varnish and dry it.
How to make backgammon chips
As for the question of how to make chips for backgammon, they can also be made of wood. Some people use the version of children's checkers, but it looks completely undignified. Sometimes even beer and soda lids are used.
How to make carved backgammon
Information on how to make carved backgammon can be found on many sites dedicated to backgammon, where it is described 
lots of different options for the manufacture of the game board itself and the original execution of chips and dice. The main common options are using wood or plywood to make a game board. The main thing is that the surface is thoroughly polished. The board, as a rule, is painted with paints, covered with carved or burnt patterns.
An alternative and more time-consuming option is the manufacture of a gaming table. That is, it is a stationary home option. Someone takes on the manufacture of such a table from scratch, and someone takes on the modernization of the old coffee table... As the simplest and quick option the alteration of the chessboard appears, that is, semicircular notches are cut out for the chips and the internal marking of the playing field is applied.
As for such an element as zary, that is, playing dice, it is better to make them from dice, or to purchase ready-made ones. You should not use wood as a material for making dice, as these cubes will wear out very quickly and lose their appearance and functionality.
How to make your own backgammon
Backgammon is an old game that is popular among the people among various segments of the population, despite its considerable age - the history of the game goes back several centuries. Today, high-quality original backgammon is an expensive and valuable gift, and with good woodworking skills, you can easily make your own carved backgammon, in order to end up with an exclusive DIY set.
Instructions
1
To make backgammon, use valuable hardwoods - for example, oak. Find a reliable supplier of high-quality and well-preserved oak planks, and purchase planks 5 cm thick. Buying undried planks, you take responsibility for their further preparation for processing.
2
Dry the camera, if you have one; if not, purchase already dried boards from companies that have their own drying equipment.
3
Saw the boards into thin planks, from which you will subsequently assemble a flat board that will become the playing field. Separately cut the thin, narrow planks that will become the backgammon frame. 
4
On the outside wooden box carved drawing will look beautiful. If you have woodcarving skills, you can make your backgammon even more unique by creating a hand-carved pattern.
5
If you have access to a special milling machine- make a thread with it. Unlike handmade, the machine helps to create many of the same pattern elements.
6
After the frame and playing fields are ready, cover them with protective impregnations, tinted and varnished. Then go over all wood surfaces backgammon grinder and varnish again.
7
Collect backgammon and leave them to lie down for a few days so that the boards "get used" to each other. After some time, modify backgammon - cover the playing field the right paints, finish sanding, varnishing and tinting.
8
After the last varnishing, wait a few days for the varnish to be completely absorbed into the wood and dry. Put chips and zaras inside the backgammon box, and the finished game can be gifted or used for its intended purpose.
Backgammon: the manufacturing process
Dear colleagues. Today I would like to talk about backgammon and carving board for 
games.
Backgammon is an ancient oriental game. The birthplace of this game is unknown, but it is known that people have been playing this game for over 5000 years, for which there is historical evidence. The oldest backgammon board was found in Asia Minor (in Shahri-Sukhta) and dates back to about 3000 BC. An analogue of this game was found in the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamun. One of the legends testifies that once the Indians, wanting to check the intelligence of the Persians, sent them a set of chess, believing that they would not guess how to play this wise game. However, the Persian sage Bozorgmehr not only easily coped with this task, but also offered his own, which the Indians could not solve for 12 years. Buzurkmehr invented and sent his opponents a new game - backgammon (backgammon ottoman - battle on a wooden board). In Western Europe, the spread of the game is associated with the return of the Crusaders from the 12th century Crusades. The game became very popular in medieval Europe and was called Trick Truck. This name, apparently, comes from the sound of bones hitting a wooden board. At that time, the word "backgammon" coexisted to refer to the game of kings. Only representatives of the highest aristocracy had the privilege of playing backgammon.
According to the Eastern tradition, the board for playing backgammon has always been richly decorated: carving, inlay, painting. Backgammon is also very popular in our time. This is confirmed by the number of views of the boards for the game on our site.
Meanwhile, for the most part, this is a classic flat-relief carving, which is quite within the power of novice carvers. For them, the master class, I think, will be of the greatest interest. Half of the success of carving a game board lies in a well-chosen design. The most widespread are floral ornaments - arabesques.
I deliberately leave the joinery part of the board production behind the scenes, this is a job for carpenters. Let's go directly to the carving.
Before us are alder panels veneered with ash on one side. If you are going to veneer the panels yourself, it is worth remembering that if you apply the veneer only on one side, then as the glue dries, the panel will bend towards the veneer. To avoid such a result, on the other hand, ordinary paper (newspaper) is glued, therefore, when the glue dries, deformation does not occur. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the panels lie on the packaging polyethylene "with pimples": it perfectly protects the product from damage during operation. It should be laid with the smooth side facing the workpiece. Otherwise, chips will be trapped between bubbles and may damage the surface. As a result, an "unpleasant surprise" may emerge during toning. There is only one drawback to using this polyethylene ... you can get carried away with popping bubbles and spend the whole day mediocre ...
We transfer the drawing to the workpiece using a carbon copy. In this case, only a quarter of the drawing is drawn (the printer is broken). It is better to have a ready-made drawing on the whole plane at once. This will eliminate the distortion of the symmetry of the picture, which is very important in this case.
After transferring the drawing with a carbon copy, we correct it by hand.
We proceed to sampling the background for the thread. There are two ways here: the first classic - cutting with a knife along the contour of the pattern, followed by sampling the background with flat chisels (it is necessary to clarify that the knife in this case should enter the wood clearly at 90 degrees). If it is not possible to maintain the perpendicularity of the knife to the workpiece, then you can slightly fill it up at an arbitrary angle away from the leaves of the ornament, further, when working out the thread, correcting the drawing distorted because of this. The second way is to select the background using a hand router and a finger cutter, in this case I did just that. The advantages of this method are the speed, exact 90 degrees along the edge of the ornament, the background selection around all elements is performed clearly on one 
level. Hands do not get tired in the laborious process of background selection. Of the minuses: the need for a router, and the impossibility of using it at home due to noise and dust.
So, the "rough" background is chosen to a depth of 5 mm; as you can see, there are places where the cutter did not reach, we remove them with a knife and flat chisels.
Here you should strictly follow the rules given in the first method of background sampling. Nobody canceled the work with hands.
It's time to familiarize yourself with the necessary sets of tools: a knife-joint, preferably with the sharpest angle to its edge from your entire arsenal. Flat chisels 1, 2, 3, 5, 10 mm. In my case, they are made from sharpened Soviet files. Semicircular chisels 6, 9 mm.
After the background has been selected in all hard-to-reach places, we start working on the ornament. Let's start with the bottom and top edges of the panel. We cut with a knife the points of intersection of the details of the ornament with each other to a depth of 2-3 mm, revealing the upper and lower points of the ornament, we cut it with a flat chisel. Thus intertwining the ornament.
We draw our vision of future drawing profiles.
Using a knife or flat chisels (whichever is more convenient for anyone), we first form the convex part of the profile.
Then, with the help of semicircular chisels, concave profiles.
We repeat the operations with the central element of the ornament.
We work through the whole drawing again, correcting in more detail all the deficiencies we noticed.
Now you can start mutating the background. We start by "piercing the background" around all the carved elements, achieving a graphical image. For this I use a simple sharpened screw. Not aesthetically pleasing, but cheap and practical. You can also use different punches for this.
Then we continue to "prick" the entire remaining background.
We admire the result obtained. The carving is completed at this stage and you can start finishing work. Water stains were chosen for toning. I usually use one color diluted to three tones: light, medium and dark. Two types of wood were used in this work, and in order to emphasize their merits of each of them, two stain colors were used: Dark oak and Teak. Teak - for ash. Dark oak (thinned three tones) for alder.
First, the carved panel is tinted. We cover all the threads with the lightest dye. Then, until the stain is all dry, apply a medium tone to the milled edges of the panel. Next step: go to the background - the darkest tone. You should be careful and try to apply the dark tone as carefully as possible. So that the dye does not hit the light areas of the thread, we begin to paint over from the center of the selected background area, approaching the towering thread elements with a minimum amount of dye on the brush. Let the work dry, and open the ash veneer on the other side - with Teak stain. With the same stain we open the joinery elements of the backgammon board.
After the stain has dried, remove the raised pile with a sandpaper (you can use an old rubbed skin). Or, as I used in this case, Indasa RHYNO SPONGE is a special flexible abrasive on foamed polyurethane coated with aluminum oxide, tear-resistant. Ideal for finishing, primers and varnishes and processing in hard-to-reach places (I will post the photo later). The main thing is not to damage the stain on the sharp edges left on the thread after working with chisels.
We evaluate the result and cover the work with varnish. For such works I use a two-component matt varnish. We look at the finished backgammon.
Who doesn't like spending time in the evening playing an exciting board game in the company of loved ones? And the masters of their craft know how not only to play, but also to make board games themselves. In this workshop, you will learn how to make backgammon. In the process, you will have to make a little effort and time, but the result, made with your own hands, will be worth it.
We make step by step backgammon with our own hands in a master class
Necessary materials:- veneer of walnut, maple and mahogany;
- MDF 6 mm thick;
- brass screws 4.5x25 mm;
- tools;
- sawing machine;
- magnets.
The board game will be made of plywood. It is also possible to make it from plexiglass or wood.
Instructions:1) We start by preparing the veneer. We measure with a ruler strips of walnut and maple material measuring 38x191 mm. and cut it out.
2) Made of wood with a thickness of 13 mm. we cut out the upper plates with dimensions 38x254 mm. and lower 51x254 mm. in the upper plates we measure a distance of 25 cm from the ends and make mounting holes 4 cm in diameter.
3) Lay out 15 pieces of veneer strips in 4 stacks. Then we align the edges and clamp them into the edges between the top and bottom plates.
4) We use brass screws to secure the top plates.
5) Using a saw machine, we saw off the edge of each bag at a disc with 60 teeth.
6) Make a note about the sawn-off edge at the end of the plate.
7) Expand the package 180 degrees. Then we press it with a straight edge against the longitudinal stop and saw off the second edge of the package with a machine to a width of 33 mm.
8) We carry out a similar sequence of actions with the rest of the packages.
9) Take the scotch tape and glue the strips on the sides of the veneer bags. Saw off the marked end, thereby shortening the bag to a length of 203 mm. To do this, we use an angle stop rotated at an angle of 5 degrees. We repeat the same action with other packages.
10) Set aside a distance of 32 mm. at the end and 165 mm. - on the side of the package and put labels.
11) Align the marks, circle the bag for fixing on the base of the stop and the plate.
12) We file a package of veneer according to the photo.
13) Now we start drawing up an ornament from triangles. Take the veneer strip that we will use to align the triangles during assembly.
14) We begin to collect the square of the field. Using oil scotch tape, glue the light and dark triangles to the "ruler" alternating.
15) Glue the light and dark triangles together in pairs, first with tape, and then attach them to the edge of the ruler.
16) The square will be completed when there are 7 light and 6 dark triangles.
17) Remove the pieces of tape.
18) We make three more squares in the same way.
19) Take two pieces of maple veneer, attach and align them at the edges of half of the playing field.
20) Exactly glue one quadrant to the edge of the dividing strip.
21) Transfer the marks of the position of the vertices of the triangles to another dividing strip.
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22) Attach the second quadrant with glue and align it in accordance with the marks.
23) The same way collect the other half of the playing field.
24) We glue the entire surface of the set with tape, and then remove its pieces from the bottom side.
25) Cut off both parts of the playing field to a width of 191 mm, and then align the edges.
26) Cut out two strips 48 mm wide from the maple veneer. They will become the side fields of the playing field, which are used to store checkers. Align their edges and glue them to one edge of each set using tape.
27) We cut out four plates 19 mm wide from MDF. and two pieces of veneer 255x432, as well as two bases from the picture below (numbered A) 6 mm wide.
28) Apply PVA glue to the base and put on top of a veneer sheet, which is then covered with a sheet of waxed paper.
29) Squeeze the bag between the pieces of MDF with a thickness of 19 mm.
30) After the glue has dried, remove the stubs and put the veneer on the second base of the field with further gluing.
31) We use a saw machine to trim the playing field.
32) We put a router on the table and fix a 6 mm wide router in its collet.
33) We mill the folds from all sides that are not covered with veneer. In this case, the overhang must be adjusted so that the veneer thickness is slightly more than 3 mm.
34) We glue the playing field on the other side of the base using waxed paper, nip plates, stubble and glue. After the glue has dried, repeat the action with the second base.
35) Now we insert the bases with the playing fields into the box, and then glue them and divide them into two halves.
36) We make two blanks 67x460 (in the pictures above for Figure B) and 67x300 mm. - for S.
37) We turn the blanks towards ourselves inside and with a saw blade we make dowels 3x6 mm. parallel to the edges, while making an indent from the edge of 3 mm.
38) With the same we mill the fillets of both edges with a radius of 1.5 mm.
39) The next step is to saw off the blanks to the desired length, while making bevels at their ends for connection.
40) When the parts are dry, we collect the box and insert any of the bases with the playing field, but only one.
41) Adjust the sawing machine to a width of 32 mm. and divide the box into two halves.
42) We cut out long partitions (in the figure under the designation D) and glue them in the right place.
43) We do the same with short partitions (E in the figure), focusing on the length of partitions D, and then glue it.