How to prune a rose hip in the spring. Pruning red and white currants in the spring. When is the best time to trim

Rose hip - perennial shrub, a genus of plants. Its second name is "wild rose". Rosehip not only possesses beautiful flowers, but also a storehouse of vitamins. At the summer cottage, he rightfully holds the record for the content of vitamin C, ahead of apples and currants. When planting a shrub, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil, as well as the absence groundwater, since their stagnation can lead to rotting of the roots. Rosehip care mainly consists of watering, pruning and feeding the plant. Reproduction is carried out by root suckers, seedlings, as well as by growing from seeds. On the territory of the Russian Federation, there are about 100 varieties of rose hips. Moreover, many of them are endemic. You can familiarize yourself with the variety of varieties of "wild rose" by looking at the photo gallery.

Varieties

When choosing a rosehip for planting in a summer cottage, it is best to give preference to varieties with a high content of vitamins.

Rose wrinkled(R. rugosa). One of the most popular species among gardeners. Its height reaches one and a half meters. It has a huge number of shoots, which facilitates the reproduction process. The species is hardy and is not afraid of soils rich in salts. It can grow in poor soils and windy places. The homeland of the wrinkled rose is the Far East.
Rosehip may, he is Sh. cinnamon (R. cinnamomea L., R.maialis Herrm). V wildlife grows independently in the European part of Russia, up to Siberia. The height of this plant fluctuates around 2 m. It is distinguished by rare thorns, and on the shoots with flowers they are not at all. The species blooms in May.

Rosehip may

Spiny rosehip(R. acicularis Lindley). A winter-hardy variety that can withstand severe frosts (up to -40 degrees). The height of the shrub varies from 1 to 3 m. The fruits of the needle rose hips are high in vitamin C, and their size reaches 1.5 cm.
Rose webb(R. webbiana Wall. Ex Royle). A perennial plant, which reaches a height of 1 m. Has rare, slightly curved thorns. The flowers are red or pink, sometimes white. It grows mainly on the slopes of mountain ranges (in the Himalayas, Pamirs, Tibet and Mongolia).
Dog rose(R. canina) - a type of plant with a low content ascorbic acid... His distinctive feature- the absence of a hole on the top of the head and quickly falling leaves.

Advice. Rosehips can be easily tested for their vitamin content. It is believed that vitamin plant species can whistle. If you blow into the hole at the top of the fruit, you will hear a small whistle.

Among the breeding varieties, there are:

"Vitamin VNIVI"- early middle grade. Pollination is required. Therefore, you will need to plant another bush, but of a different variety. It has massive fruits and a considerable amount of vitamins. The yield of the variety is about 2.5 kg per plant. In places of fruiting, there are no thorns, which facilitates the process of collecting fruits.
"Vorontsovsky 1"- a hybrid of two roses: wrinkled and Webb. In addition to vitamins C and bioflavonoids, it is high in folic acid... The yield is slightly higher than the previous one and is about 3 kg.
"Large-fruited VNIVI"- a winter-hardy, high-yielding variety, resistant to diseases and pests. Differs in long flowering. Jam, jam and other preparations are usually made from rose hips.

Large-fruited rosehip VNIVI

"Russian 1"- vitamin grade. Grown mainly in the Ural region. Productivity from 1.5 to 2 kg. Rust resistant.
"Globe" – winter hardy variety, high, contains many vitamins.
"Finger"- winter-hardy and pest-resistant variety. Grown in the West Siberian region.
"Victory"... Not much different from the previous variety. In addition to the above characteristics, it has a pleasant aroma.
"Titanium"- tall shrub with fruits growing 3-5 pcs. The yield is very high, it is resistant to diseases and pests.
"Apple"- a low shrub with large fruits with a sweet and sour aftertaste.
"Sergievsky"- a variety with an average ripening period. The fruits are sweet and sour with a high content of vitamin C.
"Ural Champion"... A very winter hardy variety that is suitable for growing in all regions of the country.

Planting and leaving

Rosehip - quite unpretentious shrub... It is planted to produce fruits that are high in vitamins. In particular, vitamin C. In addition, the plant emits an incredible aroma during the flowering period.

Rosehip planting is carried out in the fall. The place should be bright. But even in a shaded area, it will grow well. But if you want to get good harvest rose hips, it is better to choose an area that is well lit by the sun.

Landing order: step by step instructions

Dig a hole in length, width and height, which should be about half a meter.
At the bottom of the dug hole, there should be a small hill of soil.
Gently spread the roots and cover with earth.
Water the planted plant.
Shelters on winter period not required.

Advice. Planting can be carried out in the spring, but it is better to do this before the formation of buds. This is done to make planting easier for the rosehip.

Another planting rule is keeping the distance between the bushes. It must be at least 120 cm.
Rosehip care consists of watering, pruning and feeding. In the first year of life, especially during drought, the plant needs periodic watering. Adult shrubs are watered infrequently, but abundantly. Watering is required during the period when ovaries appear, provided there is no rain. A young bush takes up to 30 liters of water, and a fruiting one even more - about 50 liters.

If you cut a rose hip bush, it will become a worthy element of landscape design.

Rosehip is often used as a hedge. In order for the plant not to lose its decorative effect, it should be cut off periodically. Pruning is done in the fall or in early spring before the appearance of the kidneys. You can also prune at the end of winter when all dead and dead branches are visible.

Fertilizer

Top dressing requires special consideration. Root dressing is done about four times during the year: before and after flowering, at the beginning of fruit ripening and after harvesting.

The first feeding requires organic fertilizer, which is bred at the rate of 3 tbsp. l per bucket of water.
The second dressing consists of half a glass of Agricola in a bucket of water. Organic fertilizer is sometimes added.

The third top dressing is to use only Agricola.

For the last feeding, take a bucket of water and 2 tbsp. l means "Agricolaaqua". Rosehip shrubs are treated with this solution after flowering three times with a frequency of 10 days.

Wild rose propagation

Rosehip propagation is carried out in several known ways.

Growing from seeds... The collection of seeds for planting is carried out in August, when the fruits are not yet fully ripe.

The fruits are harvested.
The seeds are removed and washed.
Sowing is carried out in September, deepening the seeds by 2 cm.The distance between the seeds should be at least 5 cm.

Rosehip seeds

By green cuttings. Convenient way with a high percentage of rooting.

Cuttings are cut with an oblique cut.
Immersed in a root growth activator.
Transplanted into pots.
Cover with foil and watered moderately as the soil dries up.
Planted in open ground.

Reproduction root suckers... The method is used to preserve the properties of the mother bush. Infrequently used.

By dividing the bush... A shrub about 6 years old is dug up and the rhizome is divided into several parts. Small shrubs are immediately planted in the ground, without waiting for the roots to dry.

Diseases and pests

The Wild Rose is susceptible to disease and pest attacks. These include rust, powdery mildew, gray and brown rot, and damage is caused by rose flies, leaf rollers, spider mites and sawflies.

The use of infusion of garlic with laundry soap... The shrub must be sprayed with this mixture before flowering and after harvesting. The preparation "Topaz" will help against rust, and Bordeaux liquid will cope with black spot.

Treat the shrub from pests several times per season

Rosehip is a high-vitamin plant, perennial. Often used in landscape design as a hedge. Planting and caring for it is not cumbersome. A special role play top dressing. They are held four times a year. Rosehips are used for making tea, broth, preserves and jam. The shrub contains a large amount of vitamin C and is an excellent remedy for the prevention and treatment of colds.

Growing rose hips: video

Rosehip on a personal plot: photo

Rosehip is a perennial shrub, which belongs to the Rosaceae family. A thorny bush grows on forest edges, glades, on the slopes of ravines, in river valleys. Also, this unpretentious bush adorns garden and summer cottages, since unique berries are sources of minerals, vitamins and other trace elements that are vital the human body... In the article, we will consider planting and care in open ground.

The plant can be grown from seed at home. It becomes possible to control the entire process from start to finish.

This method is simple and less laborious; it differs from other methods in that it takes a long time.

Compliance with the instructions for growing rose hips from seeds will allow you to grow such plant bushes that will combine decorativeness and excellent fruiting indicators.

Instructions for growing rose hips from seeds:

The seed should be properly prepared, which will help to increase the germination rates. To do this, in August, collect unripe, only slightly reddened fruits.
Peel them of pulp, wash, sprinkle with wet sand and store in a cold place. This will create conditions close to natural for their good growth.
Plant in autumn, as during the winter period the seeds are better stratified.
Sow seeds in open ground to a depth of 2 cm.
Water and mulch with manure and sawdust.
In the spring, cover the sowing with foil. For fast growth, ventilate regularly.
Remove the film with the onset of warm weather.

Thinning needs to be remembered, since plants should receive sunlight and food from the ground. Thin out after the seedlings have three leaves.

We sow rose hips with seeds:

A step-by-step guide to growing a plant outdoors

When can you plant - in autumn or spring?

Rosehips are planted both in the spring, before the beginning of the growing season, and in the autumn.... For planting, one-year and two-year seedlings are used. Planting stages include:

Determining the landing site

When choosing a place, one should consider not only aesthetic appearance garden plot, but also the needs of the plant for its normal development and productivity. For this plant bushes in a well-lit place with fertile land.

Loam and slightly acidic soil are considered ideal soil for it. It is not recommended to plant the plant in wetlands where groundwater is close.

Preparing the soil before planting a bush

The main requirements for the soil are considered to be thorough clearing of weeds and the accumulation of nutrients. The land in the selected area needs to be dug up by 20 cm.

Then dig holes for planting, the width and height of which should be half a meter. At the bottom of the recess, make a small hill of fertile soil.

How to plant an ornamental shrub correctly

In order for the bush to take root well, you need to cut off its roots by a couple of centimeters, while being long, they should be at least 25 cm.Before planting immerse the seedlings in a mash of peat and manure. Landing pits pour water well.

Then lower the seedlings, spread the roots and carefully sprinkle with soil so that voids do not form. Then tamp the ground around the young bush, water and mulch with peat.

It is important to the distance between the bushes varied from 60 to 120 cm.

In order for the bush to take root well, you need to cut off its roots - their length should be at least 25 cm

How to care for a thorny plant - basic rules

Right organized care helps to increase yields, improve taste and acceleration of fruit ripening. That's why necessary measures must be done annually without fail.

Optimal watering

Rosehip tolerates drought well, so in constant watering does not need. Hot, dry weather is an exception.

In this case, it is necessary to water the plant using three buckets of water for young bushes, and five for fruiting ones.

Basically, throughout the season, the procedure should be carried out about four times.

Soil loosening

Proper care involves periodic loosening of the earth.

The purpose of this event is to improve and restore the structure of the soil, its properties, the accumulation and maintenance of moisture in the ground and the supply of oxygen to the roots of plants.

You should also constantly weed, destroying all the weeds that have grown near the bushes.

Bush shaping - pruning

Rosehip pruning is important both for decorative purposes and for fruiting the bush. The first procedure should be performed immediately after planting, cut off all branches, leaving no more than three buds.

Carry out the next pruning after two years, by removing the weak, broken and on the ground branches. Healthy and powerful branches should be cut at a height of 20 cm.

Pinch the tops to stimulate the development of lateral branches with flower buds, in shoots formed on stumps 75 cm high.

After three years, the berry culture will begin to give fruits... By this age, shrubs should have about fifteen powerful evenly spaced and uneven-aged branches, since this berry culture is very fond of light, and the presence of many branches makes it difficult to lay flower buds.

The subsequent formation of the bush will consist in the elimination of broken, dry, diseased branches, weak shoots and the removal of branches that are more than five years old.

Pruning in the autumn, or in the spring until the buds open.

Rosehip pruning:

Top dressing with appropriate nutrients and trace elements

For better growth of rose hips, it is necessary to provide it with all the nutrients in sufficient volume. For this purpose, fertilizers are added using organic and mineral products.

From the second year after planting, apply nitrogen fertilizers, and three years later fertilize with compost or humus.

Root feeding is carried out four times a year: before and after flowering, at the beginning of berry ripening and after harvest.

Preventive measures against diseases and pests

Rosehip plantations are attacked by many pests that destroy the aboveground and underground parts of it. Such pests include weevil, leafworm caterpillar, spider mite, rose fly and wild rose fly.

Common diseases of rose hips, causing significant harm to the bushes of the plant, is powdery mildew, rust, white and black spotting.

Therefore, in order for the berry culture not to be the center of the accumulation of pests and diseases, it is necessary to carry out protective procedures in a timely manner.

In the spring and autumn period cut dry and diseased branches, remove fallen leaves, burn it, because mushroom spores can overwinter under it, as well as dig up tree-trunk circles.

Inspect the bushes regularly and, if a problem is detected, determine the type of disease and treat it with appropriate special proven means.

In order to prevent process the shrubs before budding necessary preparations, in order to avoid diseases inherent in this plant.

Preparing for winter

Rosehip is considered a strong and winter-hardy plant.... Most of its varieties do not need shelter for the winter.

An exception may be young people who are sensitive to low temperatures seedlings decorative varieties that require reliable protection.

That's why trunk circle cover the bush with straw mats and cover with mulch. Wrap the bush itself with burlap or other thermal insulation material... Before winter, the plants should be fed, cut and ripe fruits collected.

Compliance with all the rules for the care berry culture will allow you to get a rich harvest of healing, and most importantly, environmentally friendly fruits.

Breeding methods, care

How to propagate rose hips? In addition to seeds, for planting rose hips also use cuttings and layering.

Propagated by green cuttings - by cuttings

Rationally propagate cultivars and varieties of rose hips by cuttings- green cuttings, which should be prepared in early July. During this period, the intensity of shoot growth decreases.

To do this, carefully cut the shoots and divide into cuttings, so that each of them has three healthy growth buds. The leaves located at the bottom should be removed, and the remaining ones should be shortened by half.

Make a cut at the top of the cutting straight, at a distance of 1 cm from the bud, and cut the stem at an angle of 45 degrees at the bottom.

Cuttings for good education and root growth should be treated with specially designed growth stimulants. Then planting material plant in a pre-prepared substrate of peat and sand.

The root formation process takes four weeks.... At first, take care of - observe the watering regime and prevent the soil from drying out.

Grow by layering

Most gardeners prefer this method. reproduction. This procedure is best performed from mid-spring to late summer. To do this, you need to determine the fruitful shrub and separate the young layers, the height of which is 30 cm.

Then plant for rooting. You can also not separate, but bend it into a furrow 10 cm deep, pin it down and fill it with fertile soil. Water regularly, spud to avoid the appearance of adventitious roots.

Separate next fall young plant from the mother bush and cut aerial part at a height of 15 cm. In the spring, dig it out and can already be planted in a permanent place.

The advantage of propagation by layering is the complete transfer of varietal useful properties mother plant.

Properly organized landing and timely, properly performed care will allow to grow green hedge from plantations of rose hips.

Which will not only give a special style to the site, protect it from uninvited guests, but also become an irreplaceable supplier of vitamins for the whole family.

Often on summer cottages rosehip bushes are planted. The plant will perfectly overcame as a hedge. Rosehip grows very quickly up to 1-3 meters in height. The bush is not very whimsical to care for. It is easy to cut. Before and, moreover, during the flowering period, it looks gorgeous, and after that it gives fruits rich in vitamins.

So that the plant does not lose its decorative purpose and shape, it must be pruned from time to time. Pruning unnecessary branches is usually done in the fall, and sometimes in early spring, before the buds begin to bloom. It is also most convenient to prune the bushes in the winter. Since at this time you can see all the dry and dry branches.

For the first time, it is necessary to cut a bush immediately after it has been planted in the ground. Immediately cut the branches as short as possible. However, several buds must be left on them. 2-3 pieces will be enough. After these steps have been completed, the bush can be left alone for 2 years. During this period, he will have the opportunity to grow stronger and expand in width.

After the plant reaches three years of age, it will be necessary to get rid of broken branches and weakened processes. At the same time, strong and healthy branches are left, which will form a bush in the future. They should be 15-18 centimeters high. Soon young shoots will appear on them. When they reach a height of 60-70 centimeters, they are grafted tops. This will promote more active growth of the branches, where buds with flowers will form.

In the fourth year of life, rose hips often begin to bear fruit. At this time, the bush should form about 15-20 large and strong branches. It would be best to get rid of unnecessary branches. Since the dog rose is very fond of sunlight, and besides, it will interfere with the formation of buds with flowers.

An adult plant needs constant care. Sick, weak or broken branches should be removed annually. In addition, branches that are more than 5 years old should be pruned. Since every year they will bloom less and less and give few fruits. It is best to gradually replace them with young and healthy processes.

In the summer, when the flowering period is over, grafting can be done on strong shoots that have reached 70 centimeters in height. This will make it possible to get more flower buds in the future and harvest more crops. However, one should not be zealous with this. If you plant a lot of shoots, the result is a large amount of unnecessary growth, which will not be very convenient to care for.

If the rose hip bush is run to such a state when it is difficult to find out where the healthy and young shoots are, and where the sick and aged branches are, then it must be completely cut off to ground level. After that, the plants can be formed anew. They do the same if the dog rose began to give small fruits and the yield has significantly decreased.

In order for the rosehip to bloom profusely and bear fruit annually, you must adhere to the following recommendations.

If the plant was planted in the soil in spring, then only 2 buds need to be left above the ground. Before autumn, shoots will appear on the bush, they should also be cut off, so that in the end you get 4 branches that are 2 buds long.

After a year, 8 shoots are formed on the dog rose. Again, in the fall, you need to cut them to the level of 2 buds. This will result in a well-formed plant. Every year it is necessary to remove excess growth from it. Such a bush will bloom well and give a good harvest for 10 years. Such care will not cause much trouble, and the rosehip will delight you for a long time.

Proper pruning shapes the bush so that each branch gets both light and air for normal fruiting. Autumn pruning frees the bush from fruiting shoots and relieves the plant from the need to feed them during the dormant period. However, if for some reason you could not do the pruning in October or November, transfer it to late winter or early spring - from the end of January to the beginning of April, when the snow melts and the air temperature rises to at least -8 ºC. will hold out at this level for several days. Do not prune the shrub in colder temperatures, or on a day when it snows or rains, and try to finish the procedure by the time the shrubs begin to bud.

Sanitary pruning is carried out when the need arises, regardless of the season.

Pruning berry bushes in winter

Contrary to the claims of many gardeners, pruning in February, if done in necessary conditions and, subject to the rules developed for this procedure, does not lead to negative consequences, just like pruning in March. As you know, the beginning of sap flow accelerates the healing of wounds and cuts, especially since at this time there are no leaves or flowers on the bushes, and all the strength of the plants is spent on healing the damage received during pruning. There are practically no other works in the garden in winter, so why not relieve yourself of a busy spring schedule, by pruning trees and shrubs at the end of winter?

Wait the right temperature and snow melting, since in some cases it is necessary to cut the branches of the bush to the very surface of the soil, and proceed to sanitary pruning: remove from the bushes frozen, crippled, broken, dried branches affected by diseases and pests, as well as tops and shoots. The shoots are removed at the root, and when pruning mature branches, hemp should be left to prevent the tissues from freezing at the cut site. In the spring, these hemp can be removed. Shrubs are pruned with pruning shears and a garden saw.

Pruning fruit bushes in spring

In addition to sanitary pruning, which keeps the shrub healthy, formative or rejuvenating pruning may be needed. The best time pruning that forms a bush - autumn, but you can do this work in the spring, just before the start of sap flow. Each species has its own plant formation scheme, and we will briefly remind you how the pruning of berry bushes, the most popular in amateur gardening, is carried out.

Pruning raspberries in spring

Raspberry varieties that bear fruit once a season are pruned as follows:

two-year-old branches that will no longer bear fruit are cut to the ground;
of the annual shoots, 10-12 of the most developed ones are left, the rest are removed;
all weak shoots are cut out;
the tops of the shoots remaining after pruning are shortened to 2.2-2.5 m, and if the bush is not high, then the tops are cut by 10-15 cm.

The bushes of remontant raspberries are cut completely at the root, and it is better to do this in the fall.

Pruning black currant in spring

Pruning blackcurrant twigs is somewhat more difficult than pruning raspberries as the bush is made up of branches of different ages, and each branch can actively bear fruit for up to five years. Cut black currants according to the following scheme:

the number of old branches cut out annually should be equal to the number of new branches left from the root growth: we cut out 3-5 old branches, they should be replaced by 3-5 new branches;
every year it is necessary to cut out those branches whose age has reached five years;
when removing old and unnecessary new branches, make sure that the remaining branches do not interfere with each other, do not cross, do not lie on the ground and are conveniently located.

Pruning red and white currants in spring

Red currant branches can bear fruit for 7-8 years, but the main crop is formed on branches 2 to 5 years old. It is necessary to ensure that there are branches of different ages on a bush formed from 12-15 branches, otherwise a year may come when all branches will have to be cut out. Of the new shoots, 3-4 of the most developed are left annually to replace the removed seven-year-old branches.

Pruning gooseberries in the fall

Gooseberry bushes form in much the same way as currant bushes: there should be 15-20 branches of different ages on the bush. The main harvest is provided by branches from four to seven years old, therefore, mainly those shoots that have reached the age of seven, as well as weak and extra shoots of the first year, are cut. Do not shorten those of the annual shoots that you decide to leave - this will reduce the yield of the bush.

Pruning honeysuckle in spring

Of all garden shrubs honeysuckle is the most photophilous, and therefore it needs mandatory annual pruning. In the early years, remove only strong tops and root growth, but as soon as the bush gains volume, proceed to thinning the crown. Try to keep an adult bush in the following parameters: height - 2-2.5 m, diameter - from 1.5 to 2.5 m. Short weak shoots, branches that have stopped growing, old, thickening and cross-growing branches are subject to pruning. Pruning old branches can visibly rejuvenate the bush, and if aging has spread over most of the crown, cut the entire plant to the base and form a new bush from the root growth.

Pruning rose hips in spring

Rosehip is not very popular in summer cottages, which is a pity. His bush attracts the eye with beauty and nobility, and the buds, leaves, fruits and even roots have healing power which mankind has used since time immemorial. The rose hips reach a height of 1 to 3 m, its bushes can be both compact and spreading. Rosehip is photophilous and picky about the composition of the soil. After planting, the rosehip seedling is cut shortly, leaving 2-3 buds on each branch, after which the plant is freed from pruning for two years. In the third year, they carry out sanitary pruning of the bush, removing root offshoots, weak ones lying on the ground, broken and extra branches, and cutting off the strong ones at a height of 20 cm.When the newly grown shoots reach a length of 70 cm, they pinch the tops. Starting next year, it will be necessary to normalize the number of branches, of which there should be about 20. In the future, branches older than 5 years are cut out, and new shoots are formed to replace them from a strong growth.

Chokeberry pruning in spring

By its nature, chokeberry is a typical shrub, although it is often shaped like a tree. But it's not so difficult to regulate the number of branches in a bush and not force the plant, turning the bush into a tree. After planting, cut off all the branches of the seedling at a height of 10-20 cm, and from the one that appeared in next year Leave 3-5 strong shoots in the root growth, cutting them so that they are about the same length as the branches of the bush. Cut the rest of the growth to the base. Next year, add 3-4 more basal shoots to the bush. On this number of branches, you can finish the formation - for a chokeberry bush, it is quite enough to have about 10 branches.

When the bush is formed, make sure that sunlight can penetrate into the very depth of the crown, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve normal branching and laying of flower buds in the chokeberry. The most productive in chokeberry are branches 8-10 years old, based on this, plan pruning, and to replace old branches, prepare strong basal shoots in advance. You only have to replace 2-3 old branches annually.

Pruning ornamental shrubs

There are two types of trimming of ornamental shrubs - regular, which forms the correct crown and stimulates profuse flowering, and rejuvenating, prolonging the life of the plant. The timing and nature of pruning depends on the type of shrub. In relation to pruning ornamental shrubs are divided into three groups:

deciduous shrubs that grow not from the base of the bush, but along the perimeter of the crown - common barberry, henomeles, bladder, flowering turf, flowering dogwood, cotoneaster, magnolia, euonymus, scumpia, daphna, laurel cherry, Syrian hibiscus, viburnum, irga and others;
deciduous shrubs blooming on last year's shoots in spring or early summer - spring-flowering spirea, large-leaved hydrangea, weigela, forsythia, deyzia, Japanese keria, tamarix, colquicia, jasmine, chubushnik, blood-red currant, lilac and others;
deciduous shrubs blooming on shoots current year- hydrangeas paniculata and treelike, David's buddley, willow spirea, Japanese, Boomald and Douglas.

Plants of the first group need minimal sanitary pruning in early spring, before the start of sap flow - weakened, diseased, growing inside the crown and overlapping shoots are removed from them. Sometimes live shoots are slightly shortened to make the bushes more decorative.

Shrubs of the second group cut off immediately after flowering - the faded shoots are shortened by about a third so that the plants grow new ones. Try not to cut the shoots every year at the same height, otherwise thick growths will form on them over time, because of which the plant cannot develop new shoots. If you begin to form the crown of the second group of shrubs in the spring, you can remove all future flowers, since flower buds in these plants, they form on the shoots of the last year. With anti-aging pruning, all shoots are pruned at soil level.

Some early flowering plants of the second group need radical pruning after flowering - willow, gorse, three-lobed almond. They need to be cut to strong new shoots or to the base, and the next year they will bloom more luxuriantly than before.

The third group is represented by late flowering shrubs that form flowers in summer or autumn on the shoots of the current year, so pruning them in early spring is quite justified. And the more the bushes are cut, the more abundant their flowering will subsequently be. Such pruning is carried out not annually, but once every three to four years, but between strong pruning, from time to time remove old branches and shorten the shoots to the required height so that the bushes look neat.

For any type of pruning, you may need a garden saw, a pruner, a pruner with two blades, a garden knife for pruning annual growth, a hedge trimmer for forming and hedge trimming, a ladder, garden var, or Rannet paste. All instruments must be sharp and sterile. A day after pruning, treat sections with a diameter of more than 7 mm with garden varnish or wound-healing paste.

Rosehip wrinkled, Japanese rose, wrinkled rose - all these are the names of one of the types of bush roses. Each season, these roses give one wave of bloom ranging from white to dark pink. The care and maintenance of this variety of roses is quite simple and mainly involves easy annual pruning. Tighter pruning is necessary if the plant is overgrowing.

Steps

Basic annual pruning

Know when to prune. Pruning should be done after the plant has entered a dormant period. This can be any time from late fall to early spring.

The best time to prune is early spring, after the danger of frost has passed. Pruning makes the plant more vulnerable, and these plants tend to tolerate less frost. If you live in a fairly warm climate, waiting until spring is not a problem if you prune the plant during hibernation.
The only pruning you should do during the growing season is pruning wilted flowers. It should be done as needed throughout flowering.

Decide if you will pick wilted flowers. You can pick off the faded flowers before their petals fall off, but this is not strictly necessary for the rugose bushes.

Remove unhealthy shoots. These are dead, withering and diseased shoots. Weak, thin shoots are also considered diseased and must be removed every year during the dormant period.
- Sharp cutting tool cut the shoots at a 45-degree angle.
- You can usually tell by sight whether the stem or shoot is alive or not. Dead shoots are usually dry, dark brown or black.
- Weakened shoots are any shoots that are smaller than a standard pencil.
- Dead shoots must be removed completely, at ground level.
- Partially dead stems should be trimmed to the point where dead wood meets living wood. Cut to leave some dry wood to protect the live wood from damage.
- If you are unable to determine where dead wood ends and living wood begins, trim the dry wood gradually until you reach a point where the center of the cut is completely white, with no visible brown or black color.
Remove questionable shoots. In this case, these will be primarily shoots that intertwine or grow at the wrong angle.
- Overlapping branches, or branches rubbing against other branches, can cause problems. Light and air are not able to wander freely to these branches, as a result, the likelihood of their damage or disease increases.
- Trim off overlapping or rubbing shoots below the problem area. If the shoots grow back the next year in the same way, cut them at ground level so that the problem does not happen again after a year.
Prune healthy shoots as needed. The center of the bush should be open enough to free movement air flow and easy access. If your rose hips are growing too vigorously, you may need to prune some of the older shoots in the center of the plant, even if they are healthy.

Additional cosmetic trim

Understand the goals of cosmetic trimming. Rosehip often grows in a neat bush without any intervention, but if the bush takes on an unkempt appearance or grows quickly, then in order to put it in order, cosmetic pruning must be done.

Wait for the dormant season. Only do annual pruning when the plant is dormant. The best way- wait until the last frosts in early spring have passed. But you can prune the rose hip at any time from late fall to early spring.

Remove all suckers. These are shoots growing from the roots of the plant as an alternative to the main shoot. Cut them off at ground level.
- Aside from being unkempt, the main problem with root suckers is that they grow too well and rob the main rose hip bush of the nutrients it needs. As a result, your bush will weaken and eventually die.
- Cutting off the root suckers at ground level is usually sufficient, but if you want to do something more drastic, dig in the root from which the shoot is growing and tear off or cut off a piece of the root along with the root sucker.
Cut off a third of the shoots. Start with the oldest shoots, cutting off one-fourth to one-third of the shoots on the plant. These shoots should be cut at ground level.
- In this case, "ground level" means the height from the ground to 4 cm above the ground.
- Use sharp scissors to cut each cut at a 45-degree angle.
- Ideally, you should try to do the pruning above the bud. If you haven't found a bud that is low enough, the bush should still form a new bud below the cut at the start of the next growing season.
- If your plant is weak, you can shorten the branches down to new shoots instead of cutting at ground level.

Always use a sharp, clean garden shears or other tool. Compliance with this rule reduces the risk of mechanical damage to the plant or the spread of disease.
Make each cut at a 45 degree angle. Ideally, the slices should be about 0.6 cm above the healthy kidney.

Warnings

If you have had problems with woodworm worms in the past, you will need to seal the cut points to prevent entry of these pests. The easiest way to do this is to immediately apply a small amount of PVA glue to the cut with a brush.