Raspberry - absolutely unpretentious plant, which, in fact, does not require any maintenance - neither summer nor autumn. After picking berries, many gardeners completely forget about the bushes, and in vain: after all, carrying out certain activities will significantly improve the quality of the harvest next year.
Every fall I prune branches, fertilize the soil and cover raspberries to ensure a safe winter - and every summer they give me large, beautiful berries.
Pruning raspberries regularly is the key high yield... It will also be necessary to pick up a pruner in the fall, since the removal of excess and old shoots:
- helps to increase the size of the fruits next year;
- helps bushes to survive frosts well;
- increases plant immunity;
- protects plantings from the presence of pests seeking shelter and overwintering;
- frees up space in the raspberry tree and gives it a well-groomed and aesthetic look.
Raspberry pruning in autumn is done in late August or early September. Optimal timing are selected based on climatic conditions - in the south of Russia and in Ukraine, manipulation can be postponed until cold weather approaches, but in mid-latitudes it is better to complete everything before the frost begins.
What is the scheme for pruning raspberries? To correctly carry out this manipulation and not harm the bushes, follow the instructions:
- Look carefully at the planting and prune dry, damaged, or diseased annual shoots.
- Almost at the root, leaving a small stump, cut off the two-year-old raspberry shoots.
- Then assess how thick your raspberry tree is. On average, no more than 10 stems should fall on 1 m 2 of land, so remove all unnecessary shoots with a pruner or pull them out by the roots.
Once you are done removing the excess stems, take the foliage from the shoots. If this is not done, with the onset of rains, drying sheet plates will stick to the trunks and cover flower buds, which will lead to their rotting and fungal attack.
Removal of foliage must be carried out with tight gloves that protect against thorns, strictly in the direction from the bottom up.
Preparing for winter
After pruning, raspberries need to be qualitatively prepared for wintering and future spring awakening. All your actions now will serve to strengthen the stability of the bushes and increase their yield in the next season. Watering, fertilizing and protecting against weeds, pests, diseases and frost - this is what your autumn care for raspberries.
Weeding and mulching
Of course, raspberries are unpretentious and can grow with weeds or on a neat lawn, but regular weeding still significantly increases yields. Any plants take away nutrients and moisture from the soil from the bushes, and a dense carpet of grass, on the contrary, retains water in the ground and causes root rot culture.
Weeds also contribute to the development of infections and the reproduction of pests, so it is still better to remove them in a timely manner.
After weeding the soil in the raspberry tree, I recommend mulching. It is better to do this with the help of cut grass without seeds, creating an air layer 5-6 cm thick from it. You do not need to cover the ground with a fluffy cap - it will retain moisture excessively, which will contribute to damping off the stems during thaw and the development of root rot.
Top dressing
Autumn fertilization for raspberries has several goals at once. Top dressing helps the plants to prepare for the cold as well as possible and survive the winter well. In addition, the soil fertilized in autumn with the beginning of the awakening of raspberries will provide it with all the necessary substances for growth and fruiting.
Raspberries are fed in the fall with preparations containing potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen will be superfluous during this period, since it will delay the natural pace of preparation for wintering and is even able to weaken the plants, starting the processes of building up new green mass in the stems.
Young shoots will not have time to mature properly and will freeze, even though shelter is provided.
Superphosphate is most often used as an autumn dressing. This drug contains the optimal amount of potassium, which increases winter hardiness perennial plants, and phosphorus, which has a beneficial effect on metabolic processes and immunity.
Instead of superphosphate, you can use potassium monophosphate or any complex fertilizer, as long as there is no nitrogen in it.
Fertilizers are applied directly to the soil according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After that, the soil must be shallowly and carefully loosened so as not to damage the roots lying at the surface and mulch.
Watering
Moisture-loving raspberries always require watering: in spring, summer and dry autumn. In no case should the plant go into winter with a dry root system, otherwise it will die.
Watering the raspberry tree should be carried out "according to the indications" - if there are prolonged rains in the fall, there is no need to provide the plants with additional moisture, but in a dry Indian summer or warm cloudy days without precipitation, the bushes need to be spilled abundantly with water.
When watering raspberries in the fall, do not forget to check long-term weather forecasts: these activities should be completed at least a week before the onset of frost.
You will learn more about feeding, pruning and preparing raspberries for winter in the southern regions from the video of an experienced gardener:
Frost protection
The final stage in preparing raspberries for wintering is to ensure high-quality protection of bushes from frost and wind. The upright stems of the shrub, especially those growing high, are not able to survive the cold.
In the south and in the middle lane, the usual bending of the shoots is often a sufficient measure of protection against frost and wind:
- Drive pegs 30-40 cm high into the ground along the contour of the raspberry tree.
- Pull a nylon cord or rope on the pegs in a convenient order for you so that they form a kind of net.
- Gently collect the shoots, tie them up in heaps if necessary, and bring them under the cords.
- Sprinkle the roots of the shoots with earth - these "mounds" will prevent stagnation of water in the thaw and the occurrence of rot.
If you do not want to untangle a complex network of stretched nylon thread in the spring, you can bend heaps of raspberry shoots using metal brackets or small arcs in diameter. In a raspberry tree planted in strict rows, you can pull a thick rope along the bottom and attach branches to it with garden clamps.
It is important to choose the right moment to bend the stems of raspberries: tying too early will lead to damping and death of the plant, and belated manipulations in frosts can damage the shoots that have become fragile and brittle.
In spring, raspberries need to be freed and straightened in time - this is done when the threat of frost has passed, but before the buds begin to bloom.
Sheltering
Further measures to protect the raspberry from frost and wind directly depend on the region and its climatic features:
- In areas characterized by little snowy winters, bent shrubs should be additionally covered with snow or high-quality mulching with straw or foliage should be organized healthy trees and shrubs. Covering raspberries with polyethylene or geotextiles helps to survive frost-free winters.
- In regions with snowy winters, bending down the raspberry stalks alone will be enough to protect the bushes from frost. A thick layer of snow will qualitatively preserve your plantings, and in the spring will provide the plant with moisture.
- In the southern regions of Russia and in Ukraine, you should not get carried away with the insulation of the shrub - the roots and stems of raspberries can overheat and die. It will be enough to bend them down, and if there is a threat of severe frosts and gusty winds, cover them with geotextiles for a while.
Since our winters are unpredictable, it is better not to get too carried away with warming the raspberry tree in the fall. An overabundance of mulch and covering material over the shoots can lead to overheating and inevitable death, therefore, in my opinion, bending the branches is quite enough as the final stage of preparation.
In general, caring for raspberries and preparing them for winter should be aimed at increasing the natural resistance of plants and maximum preservation root system and young shoots.
Even if some of the stems freeze, a strong root will give new high-quality shoots in spring, which will allow you to enjoy an incredibly tasty and healthy harvest in summer.
Taste and useful qualities raspberries have long made it a favorite among berries, and many summer residents keep several bushes in their yards. Raspberries do not require careful care, they grow quietly all summer long, bearing fruits and, if you are not afraid of sharp thorns, you can harvest a good harvest, and by autumn you can make a lot of jam. But with the arrival of cold weather, other varieties must be protected, because winters in the Moscow region are long, sometimes the temperature drops to -40.
Getting ready for winter
In the multi-stage process of preparing for the cold, raspberry bushes stand separately. Every summer resident or permanent resident of the village knows which plants on its territory need protection from the cold, who needs to be cut or fertilized. Many people think that it is possible to prepare for cold weather in the fall, but this is not the case. The process begins in summer, although it is still hot outside and you want to think about the cold last.
The first stage is tracking the state of the root system, shoots and wood of each bush. Nature itself begins to gradually prepare for the upcoming cold weather, but sometimes it needs to be gently spurred in the right direction with the help of feeding. So root system with shoots will accumulate strength for a long winter. How to prepare raspberries for winter in the Moscow region - the last time you need to feed them before the frosts.
The second stage - with the beginning of autumn beautiful days, you need to start mulching the soil to protect the roots from frost and possible drying out. The procedure is especially carefully carried out in arid regions, where, as you know, winter is colder and there is not much rainfall. And the snow is the best natural material to protect against frost. Any neutral materials with a natural composition are suitable for mulching. If you decide to cover with a layer of sawdust, do not take conifers.
Better peat or collect rotten foliage, experiment with different kinds compost, but nitrogen often accumulates in it and this contributes to an increase in humidity and the beginning of discussion under it. Form a 5-10 cm layer from the selected material. If you take a little, the soil will be poorly insulated and the bush will freeze, a lot - purulent processes will begin and by the arrival of warm days the bush will be weak or even die. Before starting mulching work, thoroughly water all raspberry bushes. They should not meet the winter with dry roots.
The third stage is bending, when the bushes are tied and pressed to the ground. This helps protect from the wind and better cover the plant. How to prepare raspberries for winter in the Moscow region - they have tall, branched bushes, so you need a few wooden pegs or metal sticks to dig around the bush. Pull the wire on them up to 20 cm in height. So the branches will be covered with snow faster and will not have time to suffer greatly in frost. Fasten all branches of the raspberry tree in the form of an arc with nylon threads, this will ensure a reliable fixation. If your raspberry grows on open area, it is not protected from cold winds, and therefore the snow cannot stay there. Learn to a new place to get good harvest in summer.
Lutrasil will help, this is a special material for shelter with a fibrous structure. There is a special heavy variety that is convenient for protecting bushes. The weight will prevent the wind from tearing off the cover, the lutrasil itself is not monolithic and allows air and sun rays to pass through. This makes it extremely popular with gardeners. Indeed, in addition to protection, the bush must breathe and, if possible, receive sunbathing... If the area is sunny, it is better to cover raspberries with spudbond, he is not afraid of the sun's rays. Both materials are made specifically for shelter, but they cost decently and this price often does not justify itself. After all, the raspberry tree usually grows densely, rarely anyone has only one bush. And in winter you need to cover everything. You just can't find enough material. How to prepare raspberries for winter in the Moscow region without spending extra money? Replace expensive analogs with roofing felt. It is much cheaper, but before sheltering, the bush must first be closed with a piece of burlap, and roofing material on top of it.
Pruning process
The fourth stage for winter preparation will be pruning. Inexperienced gardeners are better off knowing a few useful tipsbefore using the scissors.
All dried young and two-year-old thin eyelids should be cut off from the bushes;
the rest is enough to pinch, leaving the tops of 10 cm;
usually before planting the gardener estimates optimal distance between the bushes so that each raspberry plant has a "personal space". Optimally - 60 cm, this will help them in the winter. Over time, the bush grows in breadth, then, without sparing, chop off the excess.
do not touch young bushes, they are supplied with additional food through photosynthesis. When raspberries are at this stage of development, they need pruning for the healthy formation of their root system, so the peduncles are removed. The procedure must be repeated every year.
Pruning varieties remontant raspberry
It is different high level fruiting, when the berries bring both last year's ripened branches and young current green shoots. When planning the same bountiful harvest in the future, you need to take care of the remontant raspberry plant as well, and how to prepare raspberries for winter in the Moscow region, video, use the standard method of step-by-step actions. The only peculiarity is to start preparing later, because this raspberry bears fruit in summer, autumn, right up to the beginning of frost. You can trim all lashes older than one year, because they no longer bear fruit so well.
In the last autumn days, when frosts are already actively spoiling the foliage, you need to cut out all areas of the wood, leaving small stems that appear at the bottom of the roots. Protect the roots themselves with a cultivation layer so that they calmly wait for spring while in a dormant state. It is important to monitor the thickness of the covering material. It will be thin - frost will spoil the roots, will be thick - excess moisture will accumulate and a dangerous debate will begin.
Many still inexperienced gardeners are afraid or do not want to spoil their bushes by pruning. After all, the raspberry tree grows beautifully in breadth during the warm months. But there is no need to regret, for each bush you will provide the space it needs and help the raspberries to wait out the winter cold without much loss. Nature cares about plants and many go into hibernation - the growth of buds stops, leaves fall out and the trees themselves seem to fall asleep, swaying their bare branches in the wind. The bushes are covered with snow. Raspberries have long been a "house" plant that requires care and attention. How to prepare raspberries for winter in the Moscow region, photo, act step by step, carefully and thoroughly.
Raspberries are not the easiest to care for berry bush: it requires constant care. At the same time, autumn events are very important. It depends on the correctness of their implementation how the shrub overwinters and how full the next year's harvest will be. Autumn chores begin immediately after harvest.
HaveRaspberry care from early autumn
In the list of necessary measures, some relate equally to both regular and remontant raspberries, while others vary significantly. The timing is also significantly different: when ordinary varieties are already preparing for winter, remontant raspberries are still bearing fruit.
Summer is coming to an end, but thanks to BioGrow there is still time to grow crops. BioGrow is a plant growth bioactivator that will increase yields by 50% in just 2-3 applications.
Immediately after harvest, raspberries should be fed and pruned. Actually, this is not autumn yet, but usually the end of August.
PTop dressing and watering
Raspberries consume a lot of nutrients. When planting, the site is well fertilized, but regular feeding is applied throughout the life of the plantation. The amount of fertilizers depends on the fertility of the soil, but you cannot do without them. At the end of summer, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and potassium and phosphorus are necessary for the full maturation of the shoots and their preparation for wintering.
Immediately after picking the berries, the raspberries must be fed. Enough 1 tbsp. Dissolve a spoonful of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water and use it per 1 m2 of raspberries. Instead, you can scatter a handful of wood ash and use a hoe to embed it shallowly into the soil, then water. And at the very end of September, apply pre-winter dressing.
For raspberries, not only humus can be used, but also semi-rotted manure. Compost can also be used. A bucket of organic matter is required for 1 m2. It is scattered between the bushes and the aisles are dug shallowly.
A little manure can be left undisturbed: it will play the role of mulch, and by the spring it will completely rot.
Poultry manure is a more concentrated fertilizer, it is required several times less. Dung is introduced only in the form of a solution: the infusion is prepared in a ratio of about 1:10 to water and allowed to wander for 2-3 days. Of organic fertilizers good for raspberries and peat.
Dung is an excellent fertilizer, but it contains a lot of nitrogen, so you can't overdo it in autumn.
Mineral fertilizers are not abused, but once every 3 years you can add them instead of organic matter. An approximate calculation is 50-60 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2. They are buried in shallow grooves along the periphery of the bushes, and then watered well. At the same time, 3-5 g of manganese and zinc sulfates will be useful.
In addition to the water required for fertilization, other fall irrigations are carried out only in very dry weather. Otherwise, the shoots will continue to grow instead of stiffening. In the absence of rains in the fall, every two weeks, 1–2 buckets of water should be poured onto 1 m2.
ABOUTPruning
Trimming regular raspberries is simple. Since it bears fruit on second-year shoots, they can be cut at ground level immediately after picking the berries so that nutrients are not taken away. As for the annual shoots, they are left in the right amount.
With ordinary raspberries, everything is clear: after fruiting, old shoots are "under the knife"
Shoot-forming ability depends on the variety, but usually they try to keep 8-12 pieces in the bush. The rest are removed. First of all, this applies to the weakest, twisted and damaged ones. In the left shoots in August or September, you can slightly cut the tops (no more than 1/4): this leads to an acceleration of the ripening of the shoots and the appearance of side branches, that is, to an increase in the yield.
PPre-winter chores
When the temperature was close to zero (late October or early November), the foliage almost flew around, life cycle in the raspberry bushes is suspended. At this time, the previous operations are "cleaned up" and others are performed. Most likely, there are shoots that are green. They will not survive winter, so remove them with clean pruning shears. Shortly before the real frosts, winter watering is carried out at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per 1 m2.
PPreventive treatment
In winter, raspberries should go clean and healthy. All plant residues (fallen leaves, stem trimmings, weed residues) must be raked and burned, and then the stems should be sprayed with fungicides. If there was nothing wrong with raspberries, Bordeaux liquid is enough. During this period, a 3% solution is used, abundantly irrigating all the bushes with it.
In the fall, in the raspberry berry, you can use strong, 3%, or even more, solutions of the Bordeaux mixture
If numerous pests were present in the raspberry, the treatment against them should be repeated now. You can use any approved insecticide, for example, Aktara or Allegro.
HaveShelter raspberries for the winter
Most varieties of raspberries are frost-resistant, and they require serious shelter for the winter only in harsh climatic regions, especially in case of snowless winters. The best shelter is snow, so it is important to create conditions so that it does not blow from the plantation, but rather covers the bushes.
Each gardener decides for himself how to technically bend the shoots to the ground. It is important not to break them at the same time: when low temperatures they are especially fragile. The bent shoots are tied together, or better, and tied to small pegs driven into the ground.
It is imperative to bend the shoots in late autumn, and cover them only in snowless and cold regions
If the snow can be blown out by the winds, it is worth protecting the raspberry tree with shields. Anything that holds back gusts of wind will do. If it is known that snow falls late and there is little snow, it is better to cover the tied bundles of shoots with non-woven material. You can use coniferous spruce branches instead. It is important to hold the shelter on time: its construction too early is fraught with damping out of the bushes, and later - freezing. It is necessary to remove the shelter in time in the spring: no later than the beginning or mid-April.
ABOUTFeatures of caring for remontant raspberries
When remontant varieties there are significant differences in autumn events, especially when it comes to pruning: after all, such raspberries bear fruit on the shoots of both the second and current year... Depending on the variety and preferences of the owner, it is possible to leave the shoots of this year and take two harvests or remove them, when all the forces of the raspberry are directed to fruiting on annual shoots.
Since the shrub is still, as a rule, with berries in the fall, abundant watering continues almost until the end of the season or until prolonged rains begin. Top dressing is carried out after autumn pruning, according to the same standards as for regular raspberries. The same applies to spraying the raspberry from diseases: if in winter it leaves with shoots, then shortly before the shelter the bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid.
With pruning options are possible. If remontant raspberries are grown for harvesting only one-year-old shoots, then all shoots are cut out a week and a half before a stable negative air temperature is established. When they want to get two harvests, the annual shoots are left, cutting out only diseased, broken and obviously superfluous ones. If they have leaves left by the onset of frost, they should be cut off.
Most often in the fall, only small stumps are left from remontant raspberries.
Shelter for the winter remontant raspberries are required more often than ordinary ones: they are less hardy. With a complete cut of the aboveground part, an empty bed is mulched for the winter with a thick layer of peat, sawdust or humus, and in cold regions, a spunbond cover is also added. If annual shoots are left, they are treated in the same way as in the case of ordinary varieties.
Proper preparation of the raspberry tree for winter is the key to its successful wintering and bountiful harvests. All autumn activities are simple, but they must be strictly followed.
It's no secret that autumn is a hot season for gardeners. And everyone's favorite fragrant berry adds to their worries. Every gardener to the end summer season thinks about how to care for raspberries in the fall so that there is a good harvest. In this article, we will consider step by step which raspberries require care and how pruning is done in the fall. How to feed raspberries in the fall after pruning?
Garden work must be done in stages. ... The first stage of work should be carried out immediately after harvesting, and the second - closer to winter. After harvesting, pruning and shaping of bushes, soil preparation and top dressing, as well as, if necessary, treatment from pests are carried out. The second stage involves tying and covering, if needed.
Features of caring for raspberries in autumn
Many summer residents, when preparing raspberry bushes for the winter, limit themselves to feeding and bending the branches, but correct autumn pruning of raspberries is no less important. When and how to do it correctly? And in general, why is it needed:
- firstly, so that the fruits do not become smaller, only 7-9 shoots are left, so that the plant has enough light, moisture and nutrition;
- secondly, the ovary is formed on one- or two-year stems, so the bushes should be regularly rejuvenated;
- thirdly, it will minimize the likelihood of disease or pest infestation in the next season, since most of the fungi and insects are concentrated in the upper part of the branches.
If we answered the question why, then the question of how to cut raspberries in the fall is still open? Let's consider the possible options.
1.Normal
Suitable for varieties with weak vegetation, stimulates the development of two-year shoots. It consists in shortening the stems by 2/3 of their length, and weak, thin or dry lashes are removed completely.
Many recommend completely harvesting two-year-old stems that have been bearing fruit this summer, especially if the plant is not formed by a bush, but grown in separate vines. Uncircumcised two-year-olds, although they will give ovary, but in small quantities, and the fruits will be quite small.
To renew bushes with weak vegetation and poor yields, they resort to trimming them at the root, followed by covering with mulch. In this case, all pathogens are completely removed and the growth of young strong branches is stimulated.
However, you cannot completely cut aerial part in black-fruited varieties, for example, Cumberland, otherwise you can completely remain without a crop.
2.Double
More suitable for remontant varieties, for example, Polka (Polka), since the plants must have great vigor. It consists in double pruning of growth points - in spring and autumn. In this case, more young branches are formed, which will bloom on next year... This technique can only be used in the southern regions. Otherwise, after the second cutting of the tops, the lateral pagons will not have time to grow, and the yield will be lower. 
3. Trimming for shortening
It consists in trimming the top of the shoot. It is suitable for tall stems that are not prone to branching and for accelerating the ripening of annuals.
If the question "How to cut raspberries in the fall?" we answered, then to the question "When?" not yet. Pruning is best done immediately after harvest. If remontant raspberries are pruned in September, after the second wave of the harvest, then the usual raspberries can be pruned at the end of summer.
Top dressing and soil preparation
Caring for raspberries in the fall certainly includes preparing the soil for winter. First you need to clean the surface of the garden bed. If mulch is used, it should be removed and burned to avoid the multiplication and spread of pests. And scatter the ash containing potassium under the bushes. Be sure to get rid of the weeds. To clear the ground of fallen leaves, in which various insects settle for the winter. It is advisable not to dig it under the bushes, but to loosen it deeply. This is due to the fact that the root system is located close to the surface, and with deep digging, it can be inadvertently damaged.
After pruning, you need to make sure that the plant has stored more nutrients. This is necessary so that the bushes develop better in the next season. In addition, for many varieties it is important that the stems are lignified, and proper feeding will also contribute to this. Therefore, caring for raspberries in the fall should include feeding. Then a new question arises, and how to feed raspberries in the fall after pruning? 
She loves loose soil rich in organic matter. Therefore, you can start fertilizing it with the introduction of chicken manure or cow dung... It is important to remember that if rotted manure can be simply spread out under the bushes, then chicken droppings should be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:50 and infused for at least two days, otherwise it will lead to root burns.
Watering with herbal infusions, for example, nettle or dandelion, is also beneficial, the main thing is not to do it later than mid-September.
You can fertilize with urea, prepared according to the scheme: dissolve 50 g of the drug per 1 hundredth in 10 liters of water.
To increase the immunity of plants, you can take 3 g of zinc sulfate and 5 g of manganese sulfate per 1 m2.
If lower leaves they turn red on the shoots, this indicates a lack of phosphorus and potassium. And they, by the way, help the plant survive the winter. In this case, raspberries should be fed with superphosphate or monopotassium phosphate in the amount of 40 g per plant. Loose fertilizers are applied in grooves made at a distance of 30 cm from the stems, or in the middle of the row spacing, and then watered.
It is better not to introduce nitrogen compounds before winter, since excessive growth at this time will have a bad effect on the wintering of the whips.
Top dressing can be done after harvesting, or re-flowering, if we are talking about remontant varieties. But you should not do this after mid-October.
In the fall, you can think about replanting bushes or adjusting rows, although this can only be done by summer residents from the southern regions. A few tips for correct fit raspberries:
- she prefers sunny places, protected from wind and drafts;
- planting can be done when the leaves begin to fall and a white basal bud appears;
- plants are planted in rows according to the scheme: 70 cm from each other and 1.5-2 m between the rows;
- in landing pit it is recommended to add humus and a small amount of ash;
- if it is planned to form bushes, then it is recommended to plant two plants in the planting pit at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other;
- when planting, the replacement kidney should be several centimeters below the surface of the earth;
- when trenching bushes, you can arrange a trellis, for this, pillars are installed along the row with plants and a wire is attached to them at a height of 1 m, and branches are tied to the wire at a distance of 10 cm from each other;
- when planting, you need to make sure that all the roots look down;
- one-year young shoots, cuttings harvested after leaf fall, and varietal material from the nursery can serve as planting material in the fall;
- raspberries do not like the neighborhood with potatoes, strawberries and tomatoes;
- you can check the quality of the planting by pulling the bush, if it does not pull out, then everything is done correctly.
Autumn watering raspberries
Very often gardeners are interested in the question, should caring for raspberries in the fall include watering? And if so, how often and to what extent?
The answer to this question directly depends on weather conditions... If the weather is dry, it is recommended to pour 1 bucket of water per 1m 2 of the plantation once every 2 days. Firstly, it will save the plant from premature shedding of foliage, which is necessary for storing nutrients. And secondly, it will prevent the roots from freezing in case of unexpected frosts. Watering should be stopped when night frosts begin.
Protection against diseases and pests
- The plantation can be treated against fungi with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
- To combat moss and lichens, the land around the bush is treated with a pale solution of copper sulfate.
- For insects, raspberries can be treated with solutions of fufanon, actellik or intavir immediately after harvest.
- Fufanon is prepared in a proportion of 10 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water, this amount is enough to process 8 bushes. 1 ampoule of Actellic insecticide is diluted in 2 liters of water, and 1.5 liters are used ready solution per 10 m2 of plantation. Intavir is released in tablets, before use, 1 tablet is dissolved in a bucket of water and all the bushes are treated.
Shelter raspberries for the winter
1. When do you need to cover raspberries?
First, if thermophilic varieties are planted on the site. And even if the varieties are frost-resistant, winter winds and drafts can be destructive for them.
Secondly, if there is little snow in the region in winter.
Thirdly, if the probability of early frosts is high.
2. Technology and timing of sheltering
Before proceeding with the shelter of the bushes, they must be tied up and bent. And even if there is no danger of freezing, a raspberry garter is necessary so that the plant does not break under strong winds and under the weight of snow. There are several ways to bend the stems.
- To begin with, the bush is collected in a bunch, and then tilted and secured with brackets, sticking them into the ground.
- Wooden stakes are stuck along the edges of the row, between which two wires are pulled at a height of 20 cm and 50 cm from the ground. Further, each lash separately, or their small bunches, is bent in an arc and attached to a stretched string. First, at a height of 50 cm, and after a while, when the branches get used to the position, they are lowered to a height of 20 cm.
- Small bundles of lashes are bent in an arc and attached to the bottom of the adjacent bushes. This is the least expensive and easiest method, but it is suitable if the risk of freezing the plant is low.
- Vertical garter method. A support peg is placed in the center of the bush and a raspberry bush is tied to it, which is wrapped on top with agrofibre.
It is important to remember that the top of the bent bushes should be 30-40 cm from the ground, depending on the region. In addition, the garter must be carried out before the onset of frost. Otherwise, the water in the stems will freeze and there is a high risk of breaking them when tying them.
Many summer residents are wondering how to cover raspberries for the winter? The best protector from winter frost is snow.
To cover plants use:
- spruce branches, which, in addition to protecting from frost, also scares off mice;
- various nonwovens, they can be selected depending on the strength of the frost;
- earth or humus - suitable for undersized varieties with thin flexible lashes.
Repaired raspberry is a type of raspberry that can bear fruit not only on biennial shoots, but also on annuals. At the same time, there are 2 approaches to growing remontant varieties - cultivation in an annual culture, in this case the plant will give only one autumn harvest and a two-year culture - in this case we get the first harvest in summer - from the shoots of the second year of life and the second harvest in the fall - from young annuals shoots. Correct agricultural technique Each of the approaches is primarily distinguished by the options for autumn pruning, feeding, preparation for winter. We will consider these issues in detail in this article.
General rules for caring for remontant raspberries in autumn
Watering
Over the summer, the soil under the raspberry tree gives the plant a large amount of nutrients and moisture. In order to support the shrub after picking the last berries, you must not forget to water it in the fall. This is most relevant for the southern regions of Russia, where autumn is warm and dry, and winters with little snow. There, moisture quickly evaporates or freezes, so it is recommended to carry out autumn watering and sub-winter watering before the start of frost. In the middle lane, autumn is most often rainy, so the last time you can water the raspberry tree in early September, the main thing is to shed the soil to a depth of 40-45 cm.
The biorhythm of the remontant raspberry bush differs from the biorhythm of other species of this culture. This is due to the peculiarities of caring for her throughout the season, and in particular in the fall.
It is important to remember that warm weather in autumn and moist soil can stimulate the growth of new shoots and overgrowth, this will deplete the soil, and the grown young branches, not having time to get stronger, will die in winter. Therefore, autumn watering must be controlled depending on climatic zone and weather conditions, as well as accompany plant pruning.
Top dressing
In the fall, raspberries need top dressing not for vegetative growth, but for maintaining after fruiting and laying fruit buds, therefore, the soil is fertilized with humus, minerals, and nitrogen fertilizers are left for feeding in early spring. Autumn feeding best done after pruning the bushes in moist soil.
Potassium salt, superphosphate or any complex fertilizers containing these minerals are applied one teaspoon per bush. Humus will need a bucket per bush. The principle is that the more, the better, it is applicable only on sandy terrain, where the dose of fertilizing can be doubled.
Winter preparation and rodent control
If not all shoots of remontant raspberries are cut out before winter, then they must be removed from the supports, tilted low to the ground, secured, covered. This should be done in any climatic zone. IN northern regions and in Middle lane the bushes are bent down for shelter from frost with a snow cover, and in the southern regions with little snow they are sheltered from temperature differences and cold winds.
Geotextiles or improvised means are used as insulation: thick cardboard, polystyrene, perforated plastic wrap.
If before winter they cut out the entire ground part of the bush, then to protect the roots, the rows are mulched with peat, straw, humus, sawdust. But, without fail, they first clear the ground from old leaves and branches, pests can remain in them for the winter.
It is important to remember that sawdust conifers acidify the soil, they are not used when caring for remontant varieties of raspberries.
Not only frosts are terrible for raspberries. Mice and hares also harm plants in winter. To protect against rodents, gardeners wrap or intertwine the root part of raspberry shoots with tapes of film or burlap, and in winter they trample snow on the raspberry tree.
Why does the remontant raspberry not bear fruit / ripen in autumn?
Fruiting of remontant raspberries on the shoots of the first year is due to the genetics of the species. This cannot be influenced by any factors except one - the substitution of the variety during the purchase of cuttings. Having planted ordinary raspberries, cutting off all the shoots in the winter, like in the remontant, you will receive shoots without an ovary every season. Try to keep some of the branches for the next season. If they give berries only in the second year, then this is an ordinary raspberry.
Maturation of the second, autumn harvest depends on the climatic zone and weather conditions. In the Leningrad and Moscow regions, in the Urals and in Siberia, summer is short, and there are few sunny days in autumn. For these regions it is recommended:
- to grow remontant varieties of raspberries in a two-year culture, i.e. leave unfruitful branches for the second year. In the summer, you will not have to wait until new shoots grow and begin to bear fruit. Last year's branches will begin to bloom from May, and by mid-July they will give the first harvest. From August, berries will begin to sing on first years. Unripe fruit clusters of the autumn harvest are cut and dried. In winter, brewed in a teapot, they serve as a source of vitamins, like leaves and ripe berries;
- to breed raspberries with remontant varieties exclusively in the south, sunny side, on a hill or on a slope. In the lowland in spring, the frozen ground thaws for a long time, the bushes later grow, and the shadow slows down the ripening of the berries;
- timely trim the bushes so that there is no extra shade for the berries;
- control soil feeding. Lack or excess of fertilizer also affects the ripening time.
Pruning remontant raspberries in the fall for beginners
Autumn pruning dates
If you cut out all the shoots of the remontant raspberry before winter, then it is better to do this 10-15 days before stable frosts, and if you leave young shoots, then it is better to cut out the fruit-bearing branches in early or mid-September, so that at least a month and young ones remain before the first frosts shoots managed to get stronger by winter. In late autumn, before the raspberry shelter, remove damaged, weak, diseased branches.
Scheme of autumn pruning of remontant raspberries
- to obtain one harvest, in the fall, the entire aerial part of the bush is cut out, and to obtain two harvests, only the sprouted shoots, as well as diseased and damaged branches, are cut out;
- the tops of young shoots are not pruned, this does not affect the growth of lateral branches in remontant raspberries;
- shoots are cut out at the root, leaving no stumps, pests can multiply and hibernate there;
- pruning is carried out with pruning shears, without breaking, without pulling out the branches;
- leaves are cut off from hibernating shoots to prevent rotting and burning of shoots. Cut shoots and leaves, take out from the territory of the raspberry tree and burn.
Autumn planting of remontant raspberries
Benefits of planting raspberries in autumn
In the fall, the soil is warmed up, and the cuttings take root quickly. In the spring, young shoots will immediately grow from the roots. This is important for remontant raspberries, because they should have time to tie and ripen the berries over the summer.
For spring planting, you need to wait until the earth warms up, it will also take time for rooting. As a result, the period of growth of shoots is delayed, which means that the time of ovary and ripening of berries is postponed until the onset of cold weather.
Site selection and preparation
It is important to choose a site on the south side, well warmed up by the sun, closed from the wind, with fences that can create a high snow cover to shelter plantings. A hill or a slope is preferable, since in the lowland the earth heats up for a long time in spring and melt water collects.
A month before planting, you need to prepare the site, namely:
- to clear of weeds and debris, to dig up shovels on the bayonet;
- add coarse river sand or high peat, humus, manure or bird droppings to the clay soil, wood ash... Spread lime or old plaster on acidic soil;
- dig holes for planting to a depth of 45-50 cm. The distance between the bushes is 1-1.2 m, between rows 2-2.5 m. Pour a mixture of ash, bird droppings or manure, humus on the bottom of the holes. You can add a teaspoon to the bush of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Mix this whole mixture with ordinary soil so as not to burn the roots of the cuttings with fertilizers. Fertilizers should occupy no more than a third of the hole.
Requirements for seedlings
For autumn planting, cuttings are needed with stopped vegetative growth, on a green cut, without damage and signs of disease, without leaves, but with a well-developed rhizome. If the roots are open, then they should be flexible, elastic, white in the cut, processed with a nutritious talker. When buying cuttings in containers, the quality of the roots can also be assessed through the drainage holes.
Landing technology
Before planting, the roots of the cuttings are dipped in a nutritious mash made of slurry and clay. In the hole, they are straightened, covered with garden or forest soil, carefully compacted. Watering at the rate of 20-30 liters. water on the bush. The root collar of the cutting is left at ground level. The planting site is covered with mulch from straw or dry grass so that the moisture does not evaporate longer, and the roots receive more oxygen.
The peculiarities of growing remontant varieties do not differ much from growing ordinary raspberries, but the advantage of this type of raspberry - to give two harvests per season, makes it desirable for any gardener.