The peach is beautiful both during flowering and when it is covered with delicious fruits, but the planted tree will not take root without proper care.
Varieties and varieties of peach
There are 3 varieties of peach:
- peach;
- nectarine;
- Potanin's peach.
Through the efforts of breeders, many varieties have been bred. According to the ripening period, they are divided into early, middle and late. The most common are the following varieties:
- Redhaven... Early, gives large yellow-orange oval fruits with a red barrel, juicy, tender, very tasty pulp. A large bone is easily separated. It does not tolerate frost well.
Variety "Redhaven"
- "Velvety"... Ripens early, but takes root only in the southern regions. Fruits are medium in size, round, yellow with a blush. The stone is small, firmly ingrown into the pulp.
- "Early Kuban"... Hardy, productive, yellow fruits are small, but very tasty. Ripen in July.
- "Jaminat"... Medium late peach. Fruits are large, elongated, bright yellow with redness, slightly flattened on the sides. Orange the pulp is sweet, slightly sour. A bone that easily separates from the pulp. Does not tolerate frost very well.
- "Stavropol pink"... The fruits have a light yellow to pink, velvety surface. The pulp is tender, sweet and sour. Fruit ripening time is the end of August. The variety is frost-resistant.
Irganayskiy late variety
- "Irganayskiy late"... The surface of the medium-sized yellow fruit is covered with picturesque red spots. The variety is late, not very frost-resistant, the fruits ripen in September.
Attention! When choosing a variety, familiarize yourself with its characteristics so as not to acquire a tree that cannot take root in the climatic conditions of your region.
Peach planting features
The place for planting peaches should be chosen carefully. It will not grow in lowlands, in wind-blown areas. The south side is ideal with plenty of sun and good wind protection. Precursors undesirable for peach are melons, strawberries, nightshades.
A pit of 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m is prepared for a peach seedling. The inoculation is left, towering 50 mm above the ground. The newly planted tree is watered abundantly.
Peach is well suited for planting a sunny area of the garden
When planting in depleted soil, in the spring, a mixture of potassium chloride and superphosphate (50 g each), as well as 300 g wood ash and 8 kg of compost or humus. In the fall, humus is poured into the pit, covered with a 20 cm layer of soil on top, and then the seedling is lowered.
Advice. So that the roots of the peach do not freeze cold winter, when planting in a hole, place filled with black soil, plastic bag big size and plant a tree in it. The edges of the bag remaining on the surface can be used to cover the soil after watering.
How to care and how to fertilize
Care consists in pruning, watering, fighting all kinds of diseases and pests. The peach tolerates drought steadily, but development and fruiting is inhibited. Therefore, if it has not rained for a long time, 2 buckets of water with a temperature of about 25 degrees are poured under the tree every 2 weeks. Watering too generously, especially during ripening, can lead to cracking.
When digging a site in the spring, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied under the trees for better development and the formation of a plentiful ovary. In the fall, mineral fertilizers are not applied, only organic matter and then once every 2 years.
Trees need to be pruned regularly
It is advisable to protect for the winter trunk circle and roots from rodents, spreading spruce branches around. The trunk of the tree is wrapped with roofing material or rags.
Advice. Use this method of protection young tree when preparing for the winter: dig in 2 supports on the sides, put a bag on them, covering the entire seedling. Sprinkle earth over the edges. Make some holes - the tree needs to breathe.
To get good yields for a long time, peach pruning is necessary. In this case, several types of this procedure are used:
- Forming, increasing fruiting and yield quality. You should start forming the crown already when planting a tree.
- Thinning, giving the opportunity for the development of strong shoots.
- Convalescent when sick or frozen branches are removed in the spring.
- Rejuvenating, used to rejuvenate a peach over the age of 7 years. Stimulates abundant fruiting.
Peach fruit
Peach propagation
Propagated peach by seeds, grafting cuttings. For most amateur gardeners, the first method is the most acceptable. To mine planting material, take the fruits of trees growing in the same area. Saplings grown pitted imported fruits, we will not take root. The peach, from which it is planned to take the stone, must be ripe and have an ideal appearance, as in the photo. Then they do this:
- Several seeds are taken, cleaned of pulp, placed in a container with wet sawdust or sand.
- They are removed for the winter in a dark, cold place to undergo the stratification procedure.
- In spring, seeds are planted with a sprout that has hatched in a flowerpot with peat fertilized with humus.
- Water in moderation. When will it form root system and the tree itself, the flowerpot is transferred to a sunny place with a temperature of 18-20 degrees.
Peach seeds taken from the seeds sprout quickly
Another method takes less time. In this case, the seed extracted from the fruit is first washed, and then split and seeds are extracted from it. Place the seed of the day for 3 in warm water, changing it daily to fresh. When the seeds are swollen, they are planted in pots to a depth of 10 cm, one in each. The earth is watered, the container is covered with transparent material. They make sure that the ground does not become moldy, for which the greenhouse is ventilated every day.
Attention: peach seeds do not germinate well. Plant a lot of them, and from those that have sprouted, choose the strongest.
Experienced gardeners the peach is propagated by grafting a cutting. Apricot, blackthorn, felt cherry is suitable as a stock. Cuttings are harvested in November-December from 1-2-year-old shoots. They hibernate in a cellar or under cover on the street. Graft in March using the same methods as other trees.
Diseases, pests and control of them
There are not so many enemies of a peach, but they are all caused by fungi and are very serious. It is impossible to grow a full-fledged tree without prevention:
Pests that have settled in the bark are destroyed by treating the trunk with lime with a small amount of copper sulfate.
Growing a peach is not an easy task, without constant attention it is unlikely to succeed good result, but if everything is done correctly, the tree will regularly delight with a bountiful harvest.
We share our experience in obtaining peach seedlings from seeds. Selection of the fruits of the mother plant, preparation and planting of seeds, care of seedlings and the timing of planting young trees.
Many of you have probably already noticed the tangible changes in the climate in your region, allowing you to grow plants that were not so long ago considered exclusively southern. Based on the successful experience of innovative gardeners, let's take a closer look at how to properly plant and grow a peach from a stone. Of course, to plant a peach on own site, you can just buy a seedling in the spring. But now the seed is not cheap and not everyone has the opportunity to visit a nursery or a specialized outlet.
In addition, the purchased seedling may not be adapted to weather conditions your region and will bring only one grief: it will freeze, then it will bloom early, then in the fall the harvest will not have time to ripen before the cold weather. What can we say about the varieties - in this it remains to rely solely on the decency of the seller. Growing a peach from a seed has its advantages, as you will know in advance about the taste and varietal characteristics of future crops. In addition, seedlings at the earliest stages undergo natural hardening and natural selection, therefore they are distinguished by a higher frost resistance than seedlings grown in nurseries.
Having selected the fruits you like, you can choose one of the sowing methods
- purchased fruits are not suitable - they, as a rule, are all immature, so it will hardly be possible to germinate seeds;
- despite the fact that the peach tree retains a significant part of the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, the best results are still observed on seedlings obtained from seeds of own-rooted plants, rather than grafted plants;
- it is necessary to select the fruits in the fall and only well-ripened, without signs of damage by insects and rot spots.
Advice! If you purchase peaches as future seed from neighbors or acquaintances, be sure to pay attention to how, where and in what conditions the mother tree grows. The experience of successful gardeners will be the best guide for you when growing your own peach tree.
Having selected the fruits you like, you can choose one of the sowing methods or, for greater efficiency, use all of them.
Video about growing a peach from a stone
- The first method is sowing in the fall
If you have several seeds, then the easiest way is to sow them in moist, loose soil since autumn, so that during the winter they undergo stratification in natural conditions and in the spring a young sprout emerges from the hard shell. It is not necessary to plant deeply the bones, but it is worth covering the area with twigs and dry needles - this will reduce the likelihood that the growth will be damaged by animals or birds, and you yourself will not dig it up in the spring, forgetting about young peaches. This planting has advantages: natural hardening of the green growth and natural selection, as a result of which only strong and promising plants survive.
- The second way is through stratification
When there is little seed, the germination process can be taken under control. For this, the bones are first thoroughly washed and cleaned of pulp fibers so as not to prevent the development of putrefactive processes. In the fall, they are placed in a box or box filled with moist coarse sand and left for winter storage in a cool place. Closer to spring, the hard shell will open, and you can transplant the emerging sprout into a pot with soil for further formation of the root system.
The bones are first thoroughly washed and cleaned of pulp fibers
- The third method is by extracting seeds
Natural seed stratification is rarely 100%, so sometimes it is worthwhile to fit into this process in order to germinate them faster. To do this, the seeds are opened manually with a knife, and the extracted seeds are dipped in a cup of water and left so for a couple of days, changing the water daily. Having noticed that the seeds have swollen, you can start sowing them, which, as a rule, occurs at home. It is recommended to sow each seed in a separate container with a drainage hole at the bottom, for example, a plastic cup or flower pot.
Seeds are sown into the soil with the addition of coarse sand, watered and the container is closed on top transparent film to create a greenhouse effect. Do not forget that such mini-greenhouses need regular ventilation and removal of condensate, otherwise fungal infections may occur. It is also important to provide the growing seedlings with maximum illumination and regular watering. Home-grown seedlings in the spring need to be planted in open ground.
Video about planting and growing a peach
Landing in a permanent place
If you grew young peaches by sowing seeds in open ground, then in a year the obtained seedlings, when they are already more than a meter, need to be transplanted to permanent place... Young seedlings obtained at home are planted in the spring so that they take root well, and the green twigs get stronger before the onset of cold weather. When choosing a place on the site, one should not forget that a peach is still a thermophilic plant, therefore, a southern or southeastern location will be correct, the presence of natural or artificial fences protecting the tree from cold winds, loose, nutritious and sufficiently moist soil will provide optimal conditions for growing peaches.
Stagnation of water at the roots negatively affects the development of the tree
Throughout the season, young seedlings need careful care:
- preventive spraying against diseases and pests;
- regular watering, especially on hot summer days;
- if you are not sure about the nutritional value of the soil, complex mineral or organic fertilizers should be applied in summer and autumn. But at the same time, in order not to "burn" the delicate roots of the seedling, it is necessary to reduce the recommended concentration of the preparations.
Video about planting a peach in the ground
Your efforts and love will soon bear fruit - and in the fall in three or four years you will see the first harvest of peaches grown in your own garden!
Peach is a light-loving and thermophilic tree that belongs to the Rosaceae family. The peach tree grows quickly and already in the third year after planting it can please with juicy and tasty fruits. This tree is a hardy crop, but in order for it to grow and bear fruit on garden plot you need to know how to grow a peach.
Place for planting peaches
The peach should be planted on the south side of the site, in a protected, securely from the wind and sufficiently lit place. No more should be planted next to the peach. tall trees so that they do not shade it, the lack of light negatively affects the formation of wood in young shoots in spring and summer, and this is reflected in a decrease in yield and low quality of fruits.
Peach planting soil
Peach can grow on all types of soil, the main thing is to provide the tree good drainage... For his device the bottom landing pit covered with brick chips, and then gravel and stone. The soil should be loosened and all weeds removed from it. If you allocate poor soils for the peach, then a year before planting, mineral fertilizers should be applied to this land: 200 g of superphosphate, 100 g each of nitrogen and potassium, and organic fertilizers: 300 g of ash, 7 kg of humus and compost.
Planting a peach
The most favorable time for planting a peach seedling is March and early September, this is a dormant period fruit crop... The distance between the seedlings should be three meters. It is good if the peach is planted near the wall of a shed or house, or near a fence with a slight slope towards the building. So the tree can be protected from the wind, improve its illumination by the sun, besides, the heated wall will provide the peach with additional heat.
Landing technique
A pit for planting a peach is arranged with a size of no less than 0.5x0.5 meters. An earthen lump is built under the root of the seedling in the pit, then the root system is straightened and covered with fertile soil. After planting, you need to compact the trunk circle, pour it with four buckets of water and mulch with 8-10 centimeters of manure. In the fall, you should rake the earth 20-30 cm to the trunk. It is also important to treat peach seedlings from diseases: leaf curl, powdery mildew, brown rot.
Peach care
Peaches are responsive to abundant watering, without stagnant water. During fruiting and in drought, peach trees need to be watered under each tree with two buckets of water every ten days. Peach also needs annual complex mineral fertilizing, which must be applied to the soil over the entire area of the root system. Peach pruning should be done in the spring.
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478. HOW DO PEACH BREED?
Peach propagated vegetatively- grafting with a handle and a kidney. Of the methods of grafting by cutting best results give "in the side cut" and "for the bark" (see Nos. 21 and 23). Annual rootstocks are used for budding.
479. WHAT ROOTS ARE USED FOR BREEDING PEACH?
Peach is grafted on seedlings of late varieties of peach (Elbert, Dupnishka and others) and on cherry plum. In peach trees grafted on cherry plum, there is often an incompatibility between the stock and the scion. Therefore, cherry plum is not particularly suitable as a rootstock for peach.
480. IN WHAT AREAS IT IS POSSIBLE TO GROW PEACH?
Peach is grown throughout Bulgaria, but the highest and highest quality yields are obtained in the lower reaches of the Struma and Strumezhitsa rivers, in the Sliven district and in some other places. Peach grows well on gentle northern slopes at an altitude of 600 m above sea level, where cold air masses do not stagnate. Prefers nutrient-rich, irrigated soils. The Black Sea and Danube coasts are also suitable for peach cultivation. In closed valleys, the peach should not be cultivated, since in such areas, its buds, and sometimes whole trees, often freeze out in winter.
481. WHAT VARIETIES OF PEACH ARE SUITABLE FOR GROWING IN AMATEUR GARDENS?
Blake(fig. 214). The fruits are large, weighing about 160 g, with a very beautiful appearance. The skin is orange-yellow with a solid red blush occupying about 1/3 of the fruit surface. The pulp is firm, juicy, yellow, intensely red near the stone, very sweet, with a strong aroma, good taste... The fruits ripen 5-6 days earlier than the John Hale variety. They are used fresh and processed. Trees of medium vigor, early fruiting and satisfactory yield. Variety of medium-early flowering period.
Dixidge. Fruit large size, weighing about 160 g. The main color of the skin is orange-yellow with a blush in the form of red streaks. The pulp is yellow, reddish near the stone, juicy, very sweet, with a weak aroma, very good taste. The fruits ripen in late July - early August. Used mainly in fresh... The trees are vigorous and very productive. The flowering period is medium early. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl. Shows a tendency to fall off the fruit before ripening.
Dixired(fig. 215). Fruits are medium in size, weighing about 150 g. The skin is orange-yellow, with a raspberry-red blush on sunny side... The pulp is yellow, juicy, firm, very sweet, without red color near the stone, with a weak aroma, very good taste... The fruits ripen in the first half of July. Ripening period is very extended. They are consumed mainly fresh. The trees are vigorous and productive, with a medium-early flowering period. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl.
Dupnishka. The fruits are large and very large ( average weight about 180 g). The skin is lemon yellow, with a blurred red blush on the sunny side. The pulp is firm, juicy, sweet or sour-sweet, intensely colored near the stone, good taste. Fruits ripen in late September - early October. Used for processing and for fresh consumption. The trees are vigorous and productive, the flowering period is late. The variety is not hardy enough.
Golden Krichimsky. The fruits are large, on average one fruit weighs about 160 g. The skin is golden yellow, about half of the surface of the fruit is covered with dark red stripes. The pulp is yellow, some of its parts and the area around the stone are red, good taste. The fruits ripen in early August. Used fresh and for processing. The trees are vigorous, enter fruiting early and have good yields. The variety is not hardy enough.
Cardinal(fig. 216). Fruit average size, weighing about 140 g. The skin is orange-yellow, with a blush in the form of streaks, which occupies almost the entire surface of the fruit. The pulp is juicy, tender, yellow, without red color near the stone, with a weak aroma, good taste. The fruits ripen in early July. The bone from the pulp is separated with difficulty and not cleanly. The fruits are used mainly fresh. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl. Some fruits are double.
Colins. Fruits are medium in size. The skin is yellow, with a blush on the sunny side. The pulp is yellow, dense, with a strong aroma, it does not separate from the stone. The fruits ripen in late June - early July. Used only fresh. The trees are vigorous, very productive. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl.
Late chyper red. The fruits are large and very large, weighing about 190 g. The skin is yellow-orange, with a red blush, which occupies about half of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow, with an intense red color near the stone, sweet, juicy, fibrous, with pleasant aroma, good taste. The fruits ripen in the second half of August or early September. Used for fresh consumption and for processing. The trees are of medium vigor, the yield is satisfactory. The flowering period is medium-early.
Redhaven. The fruits are large (average weight about 130 g). The skin is yellow-orange, with a blurred or streaked blush, occupying about 1/3 of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow, tender, reddish near the stone, juicy, very sweet, with a delicate pleasant aroma, excellent taste. The stone separates quite well from the pulp. The fruits ripen in late July - early August. Used for fresh consumption and for processing. Trees of moderate vigor, early fruiting and abundant productivity. The variety is sensitive to curly leaves and spring frosts.
Rio ozo jam. The fruits are large (average weight about 180 g). The skin is golden yellow, with a blurred or streaked blush on the sunny side. The pulp is golden yellow, intense red near the stone, juicy, sweet. The bone is free. The fruits ripen in the second half of September. Used fresh and for processing. Trees of moderate vigor. The variety is not hardy enough.
September. The fruits are large, golden yellow, with a carmine blush. The pulp is yellow, sweet, pleasantly sour, tender, with an anthocyanin coloration around the stone, with a weak aroma, good taste. The fruits ripen in mid-September. In addition to high table qualities, the fruits are quite suitable for canning. The trees are vigorous, early into the season of fruiting and are distinguished by abundant productivity. The frost resistance of the variety is average.
Southland. The fruits are large (average weight about 170 g), golden yellow, with a blush. The pulp is juicy, very sweet, yellow, with a strongly pronounced anthocyanin color near the stone, fine-grained, with a weak aroma, good taste. The bone is separated from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of August. The trees are comparatively undersized and have good yields. The flowering period is early. The variety is sensitive to low temperatures... The leaves are affected by curliness.
Starking Delicious(fig. 217). Fruits are of medium size, weighing about 160 g. The skin is golden-yellow, with a blurred blush, dotted with red dots. The pulp is firm, medium juicy, yellow, with a slight anthocyanin color near the stone, fine-grained, sweet, good quality... The bone from the pulp is not completely separated from the pulp. The fruits ripen in early September. Used for fresh consumption and canning. The trees are vigorous, they are distinguished by abundant productivity. Variety of medium-early flowering period. Sensitive to leaf curl.
Triojem. The fruits are large, weighing about 170 g. The skin is golden-yellow or orange-red, with a blurred blush and scattered red dots. The pulp is yellow, juicy, medium-grained, with a red color near the stone, with a weak aroma, good taste. The bone is free of pulp. The fruits ripen in early August.
Used for fresh consumption and for processing. The trees are vigorous and very productive. The flowering period is medium-early. Trees are sensitive to drought.
Feuerhaven(fig. 218). Fruits are medium in size, weighing about 150 g. The skin is golden yellow, with a blush occupying half of the fruit surface, numerous red dots scattered over the entire surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow, with a weak anthocyanin color near the stone, rather tender, juicy, very sweet, with a pleasant aroma, good taste. The bone is separated from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of August. Suitable both for fresh consumption and for various processing. Trees of moderate vigor. The yield is very high. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl.
John Hale(fig. 219). The fruits are very large, weighing about 190 g. The skin is golden yellow, with a blurred blush and hardly distinguishable stripes. The pulp is orange-yellow, with a strongly pronounced anthocyanin color around the stone, sweet, juicy, with a weak aroma and pleasant taste. The fruits ripen in the second half of August and early September. Suitable for both processing and fresh consumption. Trees of moderate vigor and good yields. The flowering period is late. The variety is not hardy enough. The pollen is defective. Other varieties are needed for pollination.
Vesuvio(fig. 220). Fruits are medium in size, weighing about 140 g. The skin is yellowish-green, with a faint pink blush and numerous red spots. The pulp is yellow, hard, gristly, sweet, without anthocyanin coloration around the stone, with a weak aroma, good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in mid-August. Used for processing, as well as for fresh consumption. The trees are vigorous and fruitful. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl.
Coronado. Fruits are of medium size, yellow, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in late July - early August. They are mainly used for processing into compotes. The trees are vigorous. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl.
Crown. Fruits are medium in size, golden yellow in color. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in late September - early October. They are mainly used for processing. Trees of moderate vigor, fruitful. The cultivar is sensitive to leaf curl.
Salami. Fruits are of medium size, yellow in color, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, with an anthocyanin coloration near the stone, dense, cartilaginous, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen at the end of September. Used exclusively for the preparation of compotes. The trees are vigorous and fruitful.
Sliven compote. Fruits are medium-sized, yellow in color. The pulp is white, dense, cartilaginous, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of July. They are used exclusively for making compotes. Trees of moderate vigor, fruitful.
Fortune. Fruits are medium in size, weighing about 130 g. The skin is golden yellow, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, dense, cartilaginous, of low juiciness, without anthocyanin coloration around the stone, good taste. The bone is not separated from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of August. They are mainly used for processing.
The trees are vigorous and fruitful. The variety is characterized by insufficient resistance to fruit rot lesions.
Helford I. The fruits are of medium size, the main color is yellow, with a blush occupying an insignificant part of the fruit surface. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of September.
Used for processing. Trees of moderate vigor and high productivity.
Helford II. Fruits are medium in size, yellow in color, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. Fruits ripen 5-6 days after Helford I variety. Used for processing. Trees of moderate vigor. The yield is very high. The Helford I and Helford II varieties are very similar to each other. They differ in terms of fruit ripening.
Vivian. Fruits are of medium size, weighing about 140 g. Most of the fruits are red in color. The pulp is yellow, medium sugar content, with anthocyanin color of the stone, good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the first half of September. Used for processing. The trees are vigorous and very productive. The variety is not sufficiently resistant to curly leaves.
482. WHAT TO TAKE DISTANCES WHEN LANDING PEACH?
The peach is formed on a cup-shaped (vase-shaped) and palmetto system. When formed on a cup-shaped system, peach trees are planted at a distance of 5.5-7 m between rows and 4-5.5 m between plants in a row. When forming palmettes, the following planting distances are taken: 5-6 m between rows and 5-6 m between plants in a row.
483. HOW TO TREAT THE SOIL UNDER PEACH TREES?
Peach is a demanding crop in relation to soil cultivation. Black steam is the only The right way soil content in the peach orchard (see Nos. 85-91). Soil cultivation is carried out in the same way as in apple orchard, but with the difference that in the peach garden, both autumn plowing and summer cultivation are made 3-4 cm smaller. To enrich the soil with nutrients and maintain its structure, crops for green fertilization are sown every 2-3 years.
484. HOW IS THE PEACH GARDEN WATERED?
The peach is watered along the furrows. In young gardens, one furrow is made on both sides of each row of trees, and in adult, fruit-bearing gardens - 3-4 furrows in each row spacing. Taking into account that areas with light, well-water-permeable soils are allocated for the peach, the length of the furrows should not be more than 60-80 m, the depth - 8-10 cm, and the distance between them - 30-40 cm.
During the growing season, several waterings are carried out, the first of which, with insufficient precipitation in early spring, is done 10 days before flowering. Watering is continued periodically, depending on precipitation, and is stopped 15 days before harvesting the fruits. Watering during the ripening of fruits affects their quality negatively.
After harvesting the fruits, they are watered one or two more times until the end of the growing season. If the autumn is long and warm, they do moisture-storing watering. Water consumption for one irrigation - 600-800 cubic meters. m / ha. The main mass of peach roots is located shallowly, at a depth of 20-60 cm from the soil surface, as a result of which a relatively small amount of water is used for irrigation. At high irrigation rates, the soil becomes waterlogged and the root system of the peach dies off. Watering very late can cause peach trees to freeze.
485. HOW TO CUT A PEACH?
It is best to start pruning peaches in the first half of March, when there is no longer any danger of damage from winter frosts. If minimum temperature in winter it was below minus 18 ° and part flower buds frozen, pruning should be postponed until the beginning of the growing season. This is done in order to better assess the degree of damage and apply the appropriate cutting force. The higher the percentage of damaged buds, the weaker the pruning should be and vice versa.
486. WHAT TYPE OF CROWN IS MOST SUITABLE FOR FORMING PEACH TREES IN AMATEUR GARDENS?
Amateur gardens small size, therefore, the peach trees grown in them are most conveniently formed according to the palmetto system. Thus, the places along the borders of the garden, near the walls of buildings, etc. are better used. Of the palmetto forms, the oblique Italian palmet is the most suitable for the formation of a peach. In some cases, a modern Italian vase-shaped crown may also be convenient.
487. HOW TO FORM A PEACH ACCORDING TO THE MODERN ITALIAN VASO-SHAPED SYSTEM?
Annual peach seedlings used for planting are composed of a central conductor and numerous lateral premature twigs. Cut off the seedlings after planting in the spring. The central conductor of the seedling is shortened in such a way as to obtain a stem with a height of 50-60 cm and leave enough space above the stem with buds, from which future skeletal branches will grow. Premature twigs in the stem zone are removed, and over the stem are shortened by 1-2 buds, leaving a small stump above the last bud. Penechek is also left when shortening the central conductor of the seedling (Fig. 221).
In the spring, many young shoots develop from the buds left, of which only 5-6 of the most well-developed and conveniently located ones are left. The rest of the shoots are removed. At the same time, shortened in early spring premature twigs, which do not leave shoots. At the end of June, when the shoots reach a length of 50-60 cm, 3 of them are selected for the formation of skeletal branches. Shoots selected for this purpose should be evenly spaced around the trunk, have divergence angles of about 120 ° and be approximately 15 cm apart along the trunk. The remaining shoots are shortened into two buds. After summer pruning shoots left as skeletal branches begin to develop very quickly. Numerous premature growths appear on them, thickening the crown. Therefore, at the end of August, all premature shoots growing inside the crown are removed.
When the lateral branches of the peach seedlings are more than 50 cm long, the required skeletal branches can be picked up in the spring during the first pruning after planting. The center conductor is shortened at a height of about 80 cm above the soil surface. Shorten it in such a way that a 4-5 cm stump remains above the upper skeletal branch.Lateral branches left as skeletal should be evenly spaced near the trunk, have suitable angles of departure from the trunk and angles of divergence between themselves and, if possible, not leave adjacent kidneys. Branches selected as skeletal are not shortened. In the second or third year after planting, the skeletal branches are folded back and fixed in a 45 ° position relative to the horizontal. If the skeletal branches are weak, then they are first left in a more elevated position and only after they have been sufficiently strengthened do they give them the necessary final slope. If one or two skeletal branches have a very powerful development, then they are tilted very strongly in order to retard their development and restore balance between all skeletal branches of the crown. After this goal has been achieved, the skeletal branches are raised and secured at a 45 ° position relative to the horizontal. In the spring of the second or third year after planting, branches are selected to form the first skeletal branches (skeletal branches of the second order) (Fig. 222). The first skeletal ramifications should be about 60 cm from the base of the skeletal ramifications. On every skeletal branch and form three skeletal ramifications. The second and third skeletal ramifications form over the next two to three years. The distance between individual skeletal ramifications located on one skeletal branch should be 80-100 cm. After they have been sufficiently strengthened, the skeletal ramifications are folded back and fixed at a position of about 30 ° relative to the horizontal. All premature shoots growing on inside skeletal branches and ramifications are periodically cut out, leaving small stumps. On the upper parts (about 40 cm from top to bottom) of the branches of the continuation of skeletal branches and ramifications, all premature growths are cut out. Excessive and thickening fruit branches located on skeletal branches are removed, leaving one branch for every 12-15 cm.
The branches of the continuation of skeletal branches and ramifications are not pruned. Regulation of the growth of branches of the continuation of skeletal branches and ramifications is carried out by changing their slope. Shortening is resorted to only when the upper part of any skeletal bitch is damaged. After pruning the damaged bitch to a healthy place, prune the intact skeletal branches at that level in order to maintain balance between them.
When the skeletal branch grows too elevated and competes with the continuation branch of the skeletal bitch on which it is located, it is given a horizontal position. After obtaining good alignment between the skeletal ramification and the skeletal branch, the skeletal ramification is returned to its original position. Giving the skeletal branches the necessary slope is carried out by tying them to small stakes (50-60 cm long and 5-6 cm thick) driven into the ground. Wire and rubber pads are used as the material for the garter.
Summer pruning is carried out during the growing season. All shoots growing inside the crown and located on the inner and outer sides of skeletal branches and branches are removed after they reach a length of 10-12 cm. They are not removed completely, but leaving a small hemp. After summer pruning, only lateral overgrowing branches should remain on the skeletal branches.
488. HOW TO FORM A PEACH ON THE MODERN ITALIAN PALMETIC SYSTEM WITH OBITTED BRANCHES?
The peach is planted as annual seedlings with numerous lateral premature branches. The first pruning after planting is done in the spring. The central conductor of the seedling is cut at a height of 40-50 cm above the soil surface. The upper premature branches are cut into 1-2 buds, and those located below the trunk, in the area of the future trunk, are cut "into a ring". When pruning the central conductor, a 5-6 cm long stump is left over the upper bud or premature twig.
In spring, 5-6 of the most well-developed and evenly spaced near the trunk are selected from the developed young shoots to form a central conductor and two skeletal branches of the lower tier. 2-3 shoots are left as backup. The first two shoots, located directly below the uppermost shoot from which the central conductor will be formed, are removed. The remaining unnecessary shoots and premature branches shortened in spring are also removed, on which no shoots are left.
In early June, when the shoots reach a length of 50-60 cm, one of them is selected to form a central conductor and two as skeletal branches. It is better if the skeletal branches are at a distance of 12-15 cm from the central conductor. The rest of the shoots, which are not used to form the skeletal parts of the tree, are bent and fixed in a horizontal position. The shoot, left as a central guide, is tied up in an upright position by a stump at the top of the tree. Until the spring of next year, the shoots selected as skeletal are left to grow freely. Care of young trees should be very good. It is necessary that the skeletal branches and the central conductor reach a length of about 2 m by the end of the growing season.
During the formation of the palmetto, the central conductor, skeletal branches and their branches are not shortened. The subordination between the individual parts of the crown is established by giving the branches the continuation of the skeletal branches and their ramifications of various slopes. Three tiers of skeletal branches are formed. The distance between individual tiers should be 120x140 cm.
In the spring of the second year after planting, two suitable premature branches are selected on the center conductor as skeletal branches of the second tier. The distance between them should be 12-15 cm. Premature branches located above and between the skeletal branches of the second tier are cut out. Also remove 2-3 premature branches under the lower skeletal branch of the second tier. Other branches, located on the central conductor between the first and second tiers, are thinned out, cutting out the strongest of them. Some strong twigs are left by bending and tying them in a horizontal or drooping position.
Skeletal branches of the first tier slightly bend back, not bringing them, however, to a permanent position. The final inclination (55-60 ° relative to the vertical) is given to the skeletal branches when they reach a length of about 2 m.Premature branches located on the inner and outer sides of the skeletal branches are removed, and the lateral branches are thinned out, leaving one branch for every 12-15 cm ... All premature branches located in the upper part of the branches of the continuation of the skeletal branches and the central conductor (about 40 cm from the top down) are removed. The strong and uplifting branches on the skeletal branches are bent to a horizontal position perpendicular to the skeletal branch carrying them.
The overgrowing branches are not shortened.
With insufficient care during the first growing season, the central conductor does not reach the required height for the formation of the second tier. In this case, in the spring of next year, all premature branches located in the upper part of the central conductor are removed, and those below are thinned out. Numerous shoots develop on the tops of the skeletal branches and the central conductor. When they reach a length of 8-10 cm, the filisene operation is performed.
Remove strong shoots growing directly under the shoot of the extension of skeletal branches and the central conductor, and shoots located on the inner side of the skeletal branches.
If the second tier is not laid in spring from premature twigs, green pruning is done in June. On the central conductor in the zone where the second tier should be located, two strong ones with a suitable direction of premature escapes are selected. Premature shoots located above the second tier of skeletal branches are removed. Also remove 1-2 shoots under the tier. Shoots located between the first and second tier of skeletal branches are thinned out. Strong and vertically growing shoots are folded back and fixed in a horizontal or drooping position. The overgrowing wood of the skeletal branches of the first tier is thinned out, cutting out strong shoots growing from the upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches. Strong overgrowing shoots are inclined to the aisles.
Formation continues in the third year after planting. At this time, the third tier of skeletal branches is laid. If the central conductor is high enough, the third tier of skeletal branches is selected in early spring from premature branches located at the required height. Otherwise, the choice of skeletal branches of the third tier is postponed for the summer, when strong premature growths develop on the shoot of the continuation of the central conductor.
After laying the third tier, the central conductor is left to grow freely, thinning out only the lateral premature branches located on it. The strongest of them are removed, and the weak ones are left. The following year, the central conductor is cut at a distance of 70-80 cm from the uppermost skeletal branch.
It is better to shorten it for two-year-old wood.
Fastening of skeletal branches in a constant oblique position is carried out with the help of supporting structures and devices (see No. 257 and 258).
489. HOW TO CUT FRUIT PEACH TREES?
After 3 tiers of skeletal branches have been formed, peach pruning consists mainly of thinning the crown and selecting mixed branches for fruiting. The overgrowing branches growing from the upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches are cut out. The lateral branches are thinned out, leaving one for every 16-20 cm. When the lateral fruit branches are not enough to get a good harvest, you can also leave the skeletal branches growing on the inner side, located in the upper part of the crown, where there is more light. Strong, vertically growing branches are folded back and fixed in a horizontal or drooping position. The lower parts of the skeletal branches are usually bare and tops appear on them. These tops bend back and turn into large fouling wood. To avoid exposing the lower and middle parts of the skeletal branches, all lateral ramifications located 30-40 cm from the top of the skeletal branches downward are removed. Skeletal limbs do not shorten. Gradually, their growth weakens and they are evenly covered along their entire length with overgrown wood. By the end of the full fruiting period, the growth energy rapidly decreases and then it is necessary to resort to shortening the skeletal branches for 2-3-year-old wood. Thus, a weak rejuvenation of peach trees is carried out, causing the formation of stronger growths. With age, strong overgrowing branches resembling semi-skeletal ones are formed on the skeletal branches. They usually occupy an almost horizontal position and grow at right angles from the skeletal branches. Such semi-skeletal ramifications are located about 40-50 cm apart. At the base of skeletal branches, their length reaches 80 cm, and decreases towards the top. A small number of weak branches are left on the central conductor, located in the zones between the tiers. If the tree has enough mixed twigs, flower twigs and May bouquets are removed. The main mass of mixed branches for fruiting is left on the skeletal branches of the lower tiers and closer to the base of the skeletal branches. These rules should be followed when the peach trees are fully developed and the plants form a solid wall.
490. HOW DOES THE APPLICATION OF FERTILIZERS ON THE GROWTH AND YIELD OF PEACH TREES?
Fertilization has a positive effect on the growth and fruiting of the peach. During the growth period, increased doses of nitrogen contribute to the rapid completion of crown formation. Phosphorus fertilization improves the quality of the fruit. Nitrogen is especially necessary for peaches in the first half of the growing season, when strong shoot growth is observed. Introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers increases the sugar content of peaches.
The total surface of the leaves of peach trees, under which organic and mineral fertilizers were applied, can be 3 times the surface of the leaves of unfertilized trees.
491. WHEN SHOULD I APPLY FERTILIZERS FOR YOUNG AND FRUITING PEACH TREES?
Manure, phosphorus, potash and 1/3 of nitrogen fertilizer are applied in the fall (in the second half of November), immediately before deep tillage. The second third of nitrogen fertilization is given in early spring, and the third third - in mid-June during the period of increased shoot growth. Feeding with nitrogen is carried out only in the first half of the growing season. Nitrogen application in the second half of the growing season can cause freezing of trees. The danger of freezing increases if watering is continued until late and the soil is kept free from weeds.
If after the last nitrogen fertilization there are heavy and prolonged rains, so that the growing season does not continue until late autumn, soil cultivation is stopped in the garden.
492. WHAT AMOUNT SHOULD BE FERTILIZED FOR PEACH?
The peach carries out relatively more nutrients from the soil compared to all other fruit species. Therefore, he needs higher doses of fertilizers. With proper pre-planting preparation and filling the soil with fertilizers in the first year after planting peach trees, fertilizers can not be applied. During next years up to fruiting, it is recommended to give higher doses of organic and mineral fertilizers indicated in table 4 (see No. 218).
Increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers should also be applied under the fruit-bearing peach trees (see Table 6 and No. 223).
493. WHAT CAUSES THE WAVITY OF PEACH LEAVES?
Peach leaf waviness is caused by the "peach leaf curl" disease (Fig. 223). This disease is caused by a fungus that hibernates as spores under the kidney scales. The fungus infects leaves, shoots, flowers, fruits, but causes the greatest harm to the leaves. Infected leaves wrinkle, turn red and become powdery.
At the end of June, the affected leaves fall off. Fruits on heavily infested trees remain small and tasteless.
Control measures. To protect peach trees from damage by leaf curl, one winter spraying immediately before the bud swelling with 1% Bordeaux liquid or 10% lime-sulfuric decoction is sufficient.
494. WHAT DISEASE CAUSES A MILLY PLAQUE ON PEACH LEAVES?
Powdery plaque on peach leaves causes powdery mildew disease (Fig. 224), which overwinters in infected buds. Powdery mildew infects leaves, shoots, buds and fruits. Affected leaves are curled, covered with a powdery bloom and become brittle.
Shoots remain short and covered with a dense bloom. White pads form on the fruit.
Peach powdery mildew is characteristic of the fact that it develops in both wet and dry years. In addition, it is much more difficult to deal with it than with other peach diseases, especially when a massive infection of trees is allowed.
Control measures. To reduce the sources of infection, the affected shoots are cut and destroyed, and to protect trees from infection, they are sprayed every 8-10 days with a 2% lime-sulfur broth, a 0.8% solution of thiosol 80 and other preparations containing sulfur. The first spraying is carried out when the first signs of the disease appear, and the last one - in mid-August.
495. WHAT DAMAGES CAUSES A PEACH WITH THE DISEASE OF "POULAR SPOTS (CLUSTEROSPORIOSIS)" AND HOW TO FACE IT WITH IT?
The causative agent of perforated spot is a fungus that infects the leaves, fruits, shoots and twigs of the peach. On the leaves appear brown spots with a purple border, which later fall out, forming holes, as a result of which the leaves look like shot through. The fruits also develop brown spots, which penetrate into the flesh in the form of ulcers. On the branches, perforated spotting causes shells and ulcers. It has been established that the disease can also develop on warm days in winter.
Control measures. Cutting and destruction of affected branches; collecting fruits remaining on trees; spraying during or immediately after leaf fall with 2% Bordeaux liquid or 1% Bordeaux mixture with swelling of the kidneys. After flowering, two more sprays are carried out - the first immediately after flowering and the second 12-14 days after the first with a 2% lime-sulfur broth or 0.8% thiosol 80 solution.
496. WHAT HARM CAUSES THE PEACH WITH THE DISEASE OF "VERTICILIAL WILTING"?
The causative agent of this disease is a fungus that is found in the soil. Lesions are especially frequent in those gardens where vegetables are grown as inter-row crops. The fungus develops in the vascular system of the tree, due to which the supply of water to the plant, especially in hot summer days, is at a loss. The leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. Only leaves remain on the tops of the shoots in the form of bouquets. Brown and black circles can be seen in the cross section of the branches.
Control measures. Uprooting of infected trees.
497. HOW TO DIFFERENCE BACTERIOSIS FROM PERFUL SPOT OF LEAVES?
On the leaves, bacteriosis causes pale yellow spots, which later fall out. In this respect, bacteriosis resembles perforated spot. The difference is that there is no purple border around the spots caused by bacteriosis. Bacteria also infect branches where they hibernate.
Control measures. The control is carried out by spraying, in the same way as in the case of perforated spot (see No. 495).
498. WHAT VIRAL DISEASES ARE DETECTED IN PEACH?
Peach is affected by the following viral diseases: yellow dog mouth, purple mosaic, leaf marbling (calico), infectious chlorosis, mosaic disease, wartiness and others.
499. WHAT OTHER DISEASES AFFECT THE PEACH?
Scab. This disease is rare on peach. Dark oily spots are formed on the fruits, with a green border on the red fruits.
Control measures. Spraying immediately after flowering and again after 12-14 days with 0.8% thiosol 80 solution or colloidal sulfur.
Rust(see No. 463). In Bulgaria, rust rarely affects peaches.
Other diseases. Peach is affected by fruit rot (see No. 381), bacterial cancer (see No. 263), apoplexy (see No. 519) and other diseases.
Sooty fungus. Peach is very strongly affected by aphids, on the sugary secretions of which a sooty fungus develops (see No. 390).
500. WHAT HARM CAUSES A PEACH MOTHER AND HOW TO FIGHT WITH IT?
The peach moth hibernates in the caterpillar stage in the buds, in fruits, and at the base of the branches of the shoots. In spring, caterpillars bite into shoots, causing them to dry out. The peach moth produces three generations a year. The worminess of the fruit is caused by caterpillars of the second and third generations.
Control measures. Cutting and destruction of affected shoots. Spraying with fostiol N 40 (0.12%), sevin 85 (0.10%), guzathion (0.2%) when caterpillars of each generation appear.
501. HOW TO CARRY OUT THE FIGHT AGAINST THE GREEN BEETLE?
The beetles gnaw at the flesh of the peach leaves, leaving only the veins. In May, the female lays eggs finely in the soil. The hatched larvae feed on plant roots and hibernate in the soil.
Control measures. Spraying with 0.4% thiophenite 20 solution or 0.12% fotiol H 40 solution.
502. WHAT TYPES OF AHEES AND SHIELDS HARM A PEACH?
Aphids(see No. 390). Peach is harmed by plum pollinated (reed) aphid, peach (greenhouse) aphid, dark peach aphid, large peach aphid, black peach aphid, myzodes variance and others.
Shields(see No. 390). Of the scale insects, the most dangerous for the peach is the mulberry scale.
503. DO OTHER PESTS AFFECT THE PEACH?
In some regions of Bulgaria (Sandansky, Petrichsky) great harm the peach is applied by the cherry public sawfly (bird cherry sawfly-weaver) (see # 541). The peach is also affected by the black goldfish (see No. 521), some species of mites (see No. 391), leaf-eating caterpillars (see No. 387) and other pests.
504. WHAT MEASURES SHOULD BE TAKEN TO PREVENT PEACH FROM DAMAGE BY DISEASES AND PESTS?
The longevity and productivity of a peach depends on climatic conditions, as well as on the presence or absence of damage by perforated spotting, curly leaves, verticillium wilt, powdery mildew, some viral diseases, aphids, peach moth, etc. Therefore, for planting a peach, you should allocate areas with good air drainage, not infected with verticillium wilting, bacterial cancer, black goldfish and other diseases and pests. It is also necessary to ensure that only healthy planting material is planted, without signs of viral and other diseases.
In addition to agrotechnical and mechanical measures the following chemical measures are used to protect peach trees from pests and diseases.
1. Winter spraying immediately after leaf fall with 2% Bordeaux liquid. This spraying is done to combat perforated spots, fruit rot, leaf curl and other diseases.
2. Spraying before flowering with 1% Bordeaux liquid or thiosol 80 (0.8%) with the addition of fostyol H 40 (0.12%) or Vofatox 30 (0.15%) to combat perforated spot, leaf curl, bacteriosis , aphids, scale insects, etc.
3. Immediately after flowering they are sprayed with thiozol 80 (0.8%) and phostyol N 40 (0.12%) or Dipterex (0.15%), or Sevin 85 (0.1%) to combat perforated spot, powdery mildew , aphids, peach moths, leaf-eating insects, etc.
4. After 12-14 days, a second similar spraying is carried out to combat the same diseases and pests.
5. To protect peach trees from damage by powdery mildew, continue spraying with 0.8% thiosol 80 solution every 8-10 days until secondary growth stops.
505. WHEN PEACH HARVESTED?
The peach ripens when it is still hard to the touch but has acquired the typical color of the variety. In varieties with yellow pulp, the main color of the skin of the fruit at this moment is creamy yellow, and in varieties with white pulp it is creamy greenish. Due to the uneven ripening of all fruits on the tree, harvesting is carried out selectively. The fruits from the lower parts of the crown of the tree are immediately put into trays after removal, and with upper parts- in baskets. Peaches should be picked very carefully, as the fruits are tender and easily damaged. When taking off, the fetus is covered with the entire hand and slightly turned to the side without pressure. Peaches intended for export are harvested 5-6 days earlier.