Growing pelargonium from seeds at home. The best varieties and care of zonal pelargonium

Pelargonium is an amazing plant that has long been known to all floriculture lovers. It has a lot of advantages - from a decorative appearance with beautiful long-lasting flowering to a whole range beneficial properties. Pelargonium is suitable for growing not only at home, but also outdoors, in front gardens, flower beds and alpine hills.

The original homeland of pelargonium is South Africa, from where it was brought to Holland at the beginning of the 17th century. She was placed in the Leiden Botanical Garden. From there, pelargonium spread to France and England. Soon the flower interested many flower growers, botanists and artists and became widely known.

Types and photos of pelargonium

In total there are over 250 species of pelargonium. For ease of classification, they are divided into the following groups:

Zonal pelargoniums. The most popular group, most often grown by gardeners. There are many varieties of this species, there are several thousand of them. It is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and abundant flowering. The bushes are erect, densely leafy. The leaf blades are covered with a short fluff of densely growing hairs, wavy along the edges.

The zonal group can have simple, semi-double and double flowers. According to the shape of the inflorescences they are divided into:

tulip - flowers look like a tulip bud;
cactus - reminiscent of chrysanthemum petals - narrowed and twisted;
Formosa hybrids - star-shaped inflorescences, leaf blades are strongly divided into 5 parts;
star-shaped - flowers look like five-pointed stars;
rosebuds - inflorescences resemble a pink bud that has not fully opened;
Deacons are a hybrid of ivy-leaved and zonal geraniums, the most distinctive quality is very abundant flowering. The color of the flowers can be red, pink or red. The inflorescences themselves are small, the bush is compact.

There are many varieties of zonal pelargoniums; the most popular is the variety Alice

Zonal pelargoniums come in two-color, three-color, speckled, and bird's-egg colors—the petals have egg-shaped spots of a darker tone. According to the size of the bushes, they are divided into microminiature plants (less than 10cm in height), miniature (10-13cm), dwarf (13-20cm), normal (25-60cm) and airines (up to 80cm). There are many varieties among zonal pelargoniums; the most spectacular and favorite ones include Alice, Angelica, Bev Foster, Bolero, Flamenco, Tuscany, Connie, Diana Louise, Fantasia, Fifi.

Royal pelargoniums. Other names: domestic, English grandiflora, noble, royal. It differs from other varieties in its more capricious character and demanding care. The royal group of pelargoniums needs to create winter period rest at a temperature of 10-14 degrees. The inflorescences are large, the flowering duration is shorter than that of other groups. The most popular varieties: Princess of Wales, Turkish Coffee, 5th Avenue, Christina Beer.
Angels. The second name of the group is Violotaceae, since the inflorescences strongly resemble pansies. They are a hybrid of curly and royal pelargonium. It blooms throughout the summer, producing lush inflorescences hanging down. In size they are compact species, reaching a height of about 30 cm. The most common varieties: PAC Angelys Bicolor, Madame Layal, Black Night.
Ivy-leaved pelargoniums. An ampelous group forming hanging shoots up to a meter long. It is distinguished by small star-shaped leaves of a dark green color, which are similar to ivy leaves. The inflorescences are in the form of a brush, the flowers can be double, semi-double, simple or rose-like. The color is varied, ranging from milky white to dark purple, almost black. The most famous varieties are Antique, Bernardo, Crokc-o-day, Ice rose.

Of the most popular types of succulent pelargoniums is the angular, fleshy, humpbacked one.

Succulent pelargoniums. This group is notable for its thick, highly branched stems, bent in the most bizarre way. They can look like strange fantasy creatures, miniature baobabs and are therefore used for decorative compositions. Among the species, the most popular are pelargonium angular, fleshy, humpbacked, regular, cortus-leaved, thick-stemmed and fuzzy-leaved.

Uniques. A hybrid of brilliant and royal pelargoniums, obtained more than 150 years ago. They have strongly dissected leaves with spicy aroma. The flowers are large, similar to royal ones. Strongly decorative look, which needs an increased amount of potassium to start flowering. Varieties such as Ashby, Mons Ninon, and Mistery have gained popularity.
Fragrant pelargoniums. The leaf blades are carved, strongly dissected into 6-7 parts, so they look like terry. This group was named for the strong odor emitted at the slightest touch. Breeders have developed varieties with aromas of strawberry, mint, coconut, lemon, nutmeg, pine needles, roses, lilac, lemon balm, ginger and camphor. The inflorescences are small, purple or pink. Among the varieties, lovers highlight Diamond (with the smell of pineapple), Chocolate Mint, Citronella, Ginger (the smell of ginger).

Home care

So, you bought pelargonium and brought it home. Experienced flower growers First of all, carefully inspect the plants for diseases and pests. It is recommended to quarantine the purchase for a while to avoid damaging existing flowers if problems are discovered.

In general, pelargonium grows well at home and pleases us with a long flowering period. However, to ensure maximum comfortable conditions, we are required to follow certain rules for its content.

Do I need to replant the plant after purchase?

Lightweight is good for peralgonia. fertile soil

First of all, we look at the condition of the flower. If it is in the flowering stage, you should wait for the process to complete and replant 4-5 days after completion.

If pelargonium does not bloom, take new pot suitable size, since plants are usually sold in small shipping containers and we transplant the flower into it. We also replace the soil with a new one, because stores mainly use a temporary substitute in which the plant will not be able to fully develop.

Light fertile soil is suitable for pelargonium; it is best to mix sand, turf and leaf soil and humus in a ratio of 1:2:2:2. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to lay out a layer of drainage made of expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles or other coastal pebbles. We carefully remove the pelargonium from old container, without washing or shaking off the roots too much, and place them in new soil. Sprinkle soil on top, carefully covering the root system. At the end of the procedure, water the plant.

Lighting and optimal temperature

Pelargonium is an unpretentious plant and a room temperature in the summer of 18-25° will suit it quite well. In winter, pelargonium must be placed in cooler conditions, with an air temperature of 10-12°.

Watch a video about this plant.

For long-term abundant flowering, the plant requires a lot of sunlight. It can be kept on eastern, western and even southern windows, in the latter case shading during the daytime. It will withstand shade and partial shade, but will not please you with flowers.

Watering and air humidity

Pelargonium must be watered frequently, abundantly and regularly in summer. Just pour the water out of the pan in a timely manner and do not allow it to stagnate. Therefore, a drainage layer is required in the pot. Water for irrigation use soft, non-calcareous, cool (18-22®). You can take settled, boiled, rain or melted water.

Support high humidity air is not required at all, and spraying and bathing in the shower can harm the plant.

Top dressing

Organic fertilizers are strictly prohibited! Especially fresh. You can feed pelargonium during the flowering and active growing season, using mineral complexes for beautiful flowering plants. Fertilizers are applied every 12-14 days. In winter, during the rest period, there is no need to feed.

Reproduction at home

Pelargonium propagates in two ways - by seeds and cuttings. Both methods are quite easy and do not require special effort. True, pelargonium can grow from seeds only if it belongs to the zonal group. For all other varieties, only propagation by cuttings is suitable.

Propagation by seeds

The required temperature for seed germination is 20-25

To germinate seeds, you need to take a small box and fill it with substrate. Light soil, peat, sand, perlite, vermiculite or a mixture of these are suitable. You can use universal primer, sold in stores. Seeds are sown in boxes to a depth of 0.5 cm, trying to place them infrequently.

The substrate must be watered and placed in a bright, warm place. The optimal temperature for seed germination is 20-25®. Humidity must be constantly maintained by moistening the soil in a timely manner. Depending on the variety, seedlings appear in 7-14 days.

After another couple of weeks, the first pair of true leaves appear on the sprouts. At this time, the seedlings are planted in small separate pots. Flowering occurs after 3-4 months.

Germination temperature should not exceed 22-23

For this method of propagation, a healthy mother plant is chosen. It should not be heavily branched, since from such a flower the shoots will rot without releasing roots. Ideally, to prepare a donor plant, it is not allowed to bloom, immediately breaking off the resulting flower stalks.

In March, cuttings are prepared by cutting off suitable ones with a sharp tool. Each shoot intended for propagation should have 2-3 internodes; the lower cut is made straight, at an angle of 90°. The petioles are left to wither for 8-10 hours.

The cuttings should be planted in a moist substrate (vermiculite, perlite or sand), then covered with a glass jar or half a plastic bottle. The germination temperature should not exceed 22-23°, otherwise the cuttings will rot. The humidity of the substrate is maintained constantly. Rooting occurs in 1.5-3 weeks.

The seedlings are planted in individual pots with a diameter of 12-16 cm. If everything is done correctly, young plants begin to bloom in the same year.

Trim the stem above the internode, making an oblique cut

This procedure is carried out to obtain more luxuriant flowering, rejuvenation of the plant and the formation of a beautiful bush shape. Growing shoots should be trimmed before they become too large, that is, it is necessary to monitor the plant during the entire period of active development - from March to October.

The instrument is taken sharply sharpened and disinfected. You can use scissors, a straight razor or a knife. Cut the stem above the internode, making an oblique cut. It is imperative to monitor the direction of the shoots. They should grow in different directions, and not in the middle, so as not to interfere with each other.

Pinching to form additional side shoots can be done by simply tearing off the unnecessary tops with clean fingers.

Possible problems

Indoor pelargonium, which is familiar to many, turns out to grow well in open ground: in the garden and flower bed, in city squares and hanging flowerpots. The main thing is to choose the right variety and provide the perennial ornamental crop with proper care. And, although the decoratively attractive pelargonium is very unpretentious and hardy, there are still certain rules and requirements for cultivating the plant in your garden. How to grow pelargonium yourself? How to properly care for pelargonium? How to preserve a flower in winter? Having studied all the features and preferences of the perennial, you will be able to contemplate gracefully beautiful pelargonium in your garden every year.

Pelargonium in the garden, plant description

What does pelargonium look like and how does it differ from geranium?

The genus of pelargonium belongs to the Geraniaceae family and is a perennial herbaceous plant or subshrub.
South Africa is considered the natural habitat of the flowering aromatic crop. Currently decorative flower widespread in many countries.

Pelargonium is a light-loving, drought-resistant and heat-loving plant.
The perennial stems are straight or creeping, well branched.
The simple leaves of pelargonium have a palmate or palmately dissected shape, characteristic of the geranium family.
The main advantage of the pelargonium flower is its colorful, umbrella-shaped inflorescences of various shades and textured lines. Depending on the variety, there are few and many flowered specimens of pelargonium. The size of the corolla also varies from 2 to 5 cm.

The flowering of pelargonium, which occurs in the summer, is distinguished by its abundance and duration. The capsule fruit opens from bottom to top when ripe.
Garden pelargonium retains its decoratively attractive appearance until winter. Even faded bushes look neat and compact. Unfortunately, in winter, heat-loving pelargonium needs warmth, so, if necessary, it is transplanted and brought indoors.
The lifespan of perennial pelargonium is on average 2-5 years, after which the culture loses its original decorative effect and needs to be renewed.
Pelargonium and geranium (also called crane grass) – different plants separate genera of one common family. Geranium is successfully cultivated in open ground and can easily withstand winter cold. The same cannot be said about pelargonium, a native of the southern regions. When growing the beautiful pelargonium in the garden, we repeat that it is a heat-loving plant that is placed in a warm room for the winter.

Pelargonium, types and varieties

The pelargonium genus includes more than 200 plant species, the most popular of which are the following varieties:

Pelargonium royal

The species is characterized small in size wide bushes with large and beautiful flowers(up to 15 cm in diameter). The flower stalks of the plant do not rise above the bush, but are on the same level with all the shoots. The species is often called “domestic”, as the most common form of home floriculture. Externally, the bush looks impressive and attractive, like a bright fluffy ball.

Pelargonium tulipaceae

The main feature of tulip-shaped pelargonium is its flowers, reminiscent of unopened tulip buds. About 50 small semi-double flowers are collected in fluffy inflorescences. The color of the inflorescences is varied: from light pink to deep burgundy. The leaves are shiny and hard.

Pelargonium rosebud

The main feature of irresistible pelargonium is unusual flowers, similar to miniature roses. Numerous double petals of the flower fit tightly to each other, forming lush bud-like inflorescences. The species belongs to the zonal hybrids of pelargonium.

Pelargonium terry

Pelargonium stands out for its beautiful and very attractive double inflorescences. The color of the petals varies, depending on the variety.

The best varieties pelargoniums: Pebbles (crimson flowers), Shelk Moira (delicate salmon flowers), Brookside Fantasy (lilac flowers).

Pelargonium angularis

A tall plant that can reach a height of up to 100 cm. The short-petioled leaves are unusual in shape, similar to oak leaves, but with wavy lobes. The umbrella inflorescence consists of many flowers, usually bright red.

Pelargonium capitata

An evergreen subshrub, not exceeding a height of more than 50 cm. The stems and leaves are pubescent, bright green. Sessile flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence and have pink-violet petals. The fragrant leaves resemble crumpled leaves in texture, clearly divided into 3-5 parts.

Pelargonium curly

A strongly branching evergreen and low (up to 50 cm) bush with fragrant leaves in the shape of a heart. The leaves grow in two rows and have jagged or ragged edges. Short pedicels bear 2-3 flowers. Blooms in summer.

Pelargonium fluffy-leaved

A succulent deciduous plant characterized by thick, creeping stems and pinnately lobed leaves. The leaf blade has a bluish color and may be pubescent. Snow-white flowers with a reddish core are collected in 5-6 pieces in an umbrella inflorescence.

Pelargonium fleshy

A low-growing (about 30 cm) succulent perennial characterized by thick, cracking shoots with convex nodes. The pubescent leaves are dense, with distinct veining. The small flowers are mostly white or soft beige, with the top two petals having reddish veins.

Pelargonium thick-stemmed

A small plant with a thickened short (no more than 20 cm) stem. The leaf is long-petiolate, wide, with silvery pubescence. The inflorescence consists of 5-8 umbrellas. The color of the corolla varies from white to yellow, pink or purple. Many varieties also have distinct (contrasting) petal markings.

Pelargonium fragrant

A strongly branching evergreen shrub can reach a height of 1 meter. The leaves are very fragrant, divided into 5-7 lobes. Pink-colored flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence.

Pelargonium grandiflora

A whimsical, capricious species that prefers warm keeping. The height of compact bushes can reach from 30 to 60 cm. The inflorescences are large and corrugated.

The best varieties of pelargonium: Enzette Anna Melle, Geranimo (red flowers), Mont Blanc, Perle von Clemstal (spotted flowers), Autumn Haze (orange flowers), Destiny (white flowers).

Pelargonium capulata

A variety of pelargonium with terry, densely pubescent foliage. The leaves are bright green, long-petiolate. The inflorescences are painted in purple-red tones. Flowering occurs in the summer-autumn period.

Pelargonium staining

A very tall evergreen bush that can grow up to one and a half meters. The fleshy stem is lined with dark green, rounded leaves. Bright scarlet inflorescences are located on short stalks.

Pelargonium ivy-leaved

The semi-shrub type of ampelous pelargonium is widely used for horizontal and vertical gardening. It is considered a highly frost-sensitive species. Decorative foliage looks like ivy leaves; they do not emit the characteristic smell of geraniums and do not have pubescence. Thyroid inflorescences are few-flowered, double, variegated.

The best varieties of pelargonium: Mustang (scarlet flowers), Pygmy (cherry, pink flowers), Red Pandora (cherry flowers), Cascade White (orange flowers).

Pelargonium pink

The evergreen branching shrub is distinguished by bilateral pubescent leaves. The species has pink flowers with dark contrasting veins.

Pelargonium zonal

A species with a clearly defined leaf pattern, drought-resistant. The variety is widely used in decorative floriculture. The plant can withstand cold temperatures down to 5-6 0 C.

The best varieties of pelargonium: Meteor (low-growing), Rocky Mountain (salmon-crimson flowers), Rumba Fire (bright red flowers), Bravo Pastel (white and pink flowers).

Planting pelargonium, features and agricultural technology

The genus of pelargonium is considered very hardy and unpretentious, which facilitates the process of rooting and rapid survival of the plant when planted in open ground.

The planting time for pelargonium is spring, and when warm weather has completely established itself and the soil has warmed up well. In many regions this period falls in the month of May. If the perennial is planted in pots or containers, they can be taken outside earlier, taking care of protection from return frosts.

Choosing a place to plant pelargonium

Photophilous pelargonium prefers open areas, with scattering sunlight. Light partial shade also allows the flower to fully develop and bloom throughout the season. In the shade and in the hot sun, pelargonium will not be able to fully grow and bloom.
The soil for planting pelargonium in the garden should be fertile, light and drainable. The plant responds favorably to peat, humus and sand present in the soil. A high content of organic matter in the soil can negatively affect the decorative properties of pelargonium and make the plant susceptible to disease.
Dense loamy and clay soil is not suitable for planting flowers. The reaction of the medium should be neutral or slightly acidic.

Pelargonium planting technology

Before planting, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil: dig up the area (to a depth of 30 cm), add mineral fertilizers and humus, level the entire surface with a rake. It is better to do this in advance, for example, in the fall.
In the garden, in open ground, pelargonium is usually planted as seedlings.

The distance between planted seedlings in a flowerbed should be at least 20 cm. Approximately the same interval is maintained in the row spacing. If the type of pelargonium is large and spreading, these indicators increase. When pelargonium seedlings are planted in hanging planters or outdoor containers - the distance between plants can, on the contrary, be reduced.
When digging a planting hole for pelargonium, the seedlings are buried in the soil 2-3 cm deeper than they grew before (in seedling pots). Such an agrotechnical technique allows a young and fragile plant to form additional roots shortly after planting.

If the grown seedling material turns out to be elongated and slightly thinned, the plant needs to be pinched before planting in the ground. In this case, the flower will bloom a little later, but the bush itself will quickly get stronger and take root in a new place.

Pelargonium, garden care

As noted above, pelargonium is considered a perennial plant, although in many regions (with cold winters) the crop simply freezes out in winter. Therefore, when growing a decorative flower, it is important to take into account its heat-loving qualities, as well as know the key preferences and features of caring for pelargonium.

Proper care of garden pelargonium will ensure abundant flowering of the ornamental crop throughout the summer.

Watering pelargonium

Moisture-loving and, at the same time, drought-resistant pelargonium “responds” favorably to regular, moderate watering of the soil. The plant can tolerate short-term drought without damage, but it is better not to allow the soil to become too dry.
The lack of regular watering affects the decorative appearance of the perennial - the leaves wither and thin out, and the inflorescences become small or even fall off. Excessive humidity or stagnation of water is also unacceptable: pelargonium will begin to ache and “wither.”
Watering is especially important for the plant immediately after planting, when the seedlings are still taking root in the open ground.
The best water for watering pelargonium is settled or rainwater.
The plant does not need spraying (sprinkling) of the aboveground part.
Garden varieties of pelargonium prefer air temperatures not exceeding +20 0 C. On too hot days, the plant can be shaded.

Feeding pelargonium

The flower “reveals” its decorative charms as fully as possible in fertilized fertile soil, which means you should not forget about feeding the perennial.
To ensure lush and thick bush, with lush green foliage and many inflorescences, phosphorus and potassium-containing fertilizers are ideal.
Phosphorus supplements are applied in the spring, before flowering, at the time of formation of the pelargonium bush. Potash fertilizers can be used during the formation of flower buds and during flowering. In winter, during the plant's dormant period, no fertilizing is applied.
Balanced fertilizer complexes for flowering crops can be used as maintenance fertilizing. Do not overdo it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which lead to active growth of greenery and an almost complete absence of inflorescences.
Foliar and root feedings used for garden pelargoniums can be alternated. For abundant and long-lasting flowering, it is recommended to feed pelargonium twice a month.
You should not apply fertilizers for a month after transplanting pelargonium. During this period, the plant acclimatizes to new environmental conditions.

Pruning pelargonium

In order for the flower to look attractive and beautiful throughout the growing season, it is necessary to trim off faded inflorescences and yellowed leaves. Otherwise, pelargonium will spend its energy and “strength” on the formation of seeds, which will negatively affect the formation of new buds.

Thus, the plant is pruned in order to form denser and more compact pelargonium bushes. Then, due to the appearance of new side shoots, the crop will significantly improve its decorative appeal.

If for a long time If the weather is rainy and damp, it is better to trim off not only faded but also unopened inflorescences from the bush. This technique will prevent the disease from gray rot, which quickly spreads from the inflorescences to the green part of the bush.
Some gardeners prefer to pinch the tops of shoots in the spring. Then the bush will “start to grow” more actively, and subsequently will delight you with abundant flowering.

Diseases and pests of pelargonium

Pelargonium is a fairly disease-resistant plant. Usually, a flower begins to hurt if the conditions for its cultivation are grossly violated. The cause may be drought or stagnant moisture, insufficient lighting or direct hot rays of the sun.

If gray spots appear throughout the plant and the stem begins to rot, gray rot may be a disease . The appearance of fungus is caused by dampness, coolness, poor air ventilation (in winter) and waterlogging. To combat the disease, it is necessary to clear the area of weeds, remove all affected areas from the plant, adhere to the correct watering regime (morning or evening), and apply a fungicide to the pelargonium.

Brownish spots and dried edges on the leaves, as well as drying out shoots, indicate the bacterial nature of the flower disease. In the fight against the disease, appropriate chemicals will be needed.
Among the pests, pelargonium can be attacked by aphids, whiteflies, cabbage caterpillars or mites. Various insecticidal preparations will help remove pests.

How to preserve pelargonium in winter?

A native of the south, pelargonium does not tolerate even short-term frosts, so in winter it needs special care.
The ideal option is to initially plant pelargonium in containers or pots that can easily be brought indoors in advance of the winter cold. Moreover, in this case, pelargonium will continue to bloom even in the fall.
If perennial bushes grow in open ground, they are dug up in the fall, roots and shoots are trimmed, and then planted in indoor containers. Indoors, pelargonium should be at rest. To do this, it is important to observe certain conditions: low air temperature (15-20 0 C), limited watering and lack of fertilizing.
Often, when growing pelargonium in open ground, the practice is to harvest cuttings in the fall, which are treated with Kornevin, placed in water, and then planted in small containers. In the spring, the rooted cuttings are gradually hardened off and planted in a flower bed. The length of the apical shoots to prepare full-fledged cuttings should be about 20 cm. This way it is possible to preserve sufficient quantity specimens of pelargonium for planting next year.

Pelargonium propagation

There are several ways to propagate pelargonium: seed and vegetative (using green cuttings).

The seed method is considered a longer process than propagation by cuttings. So, to get flowering pelargonium from seeds, it will take at least 3-4 months, while specimens grown from cuttings bloom in 2-2.5 months.

Propagation of pelargonium by seeds

Pelargonium grown from collected seeds may not reproduce the characteristics (for example, petal color) of the mother plant.
Currently, in a specialized flower growing store you can easily buy seeds of various varieties of pelargonium.
Before sowing, pelargonium seeds must be subjected to scarification - a process that violates the integrity of the seed coat and improves its further germination. To do this, the seeds are rubbed between two sheets of sandpaper and then soaked in warm water for 3 hours. Seeds that have not undergone scarification are characterized by reduced germination and a longer germination period. Seeds purchased in the form of pills do not need scarification and are ready immediately for sowing.

Seeds are sown in winter or early spring in a container with a nutrient soil mixture (sand and peat). Florists also use for sowing peat tablets. Pelargonium seeds are sowed superficially, without additional deepening. It is enough to sprinkle the seeds with a little soil mixture on top.

Caring for seeds comes down to periodically moistening the soil substrate (from a spray bottle) and creating a microclimate acceptable for the emergence of seedlings. To do this, cover the container with seeds with film or glass, simulating a greenhouse. It is important not to forget to regularly ventilate such a mini-greenhouse.
About two to three weeks after sowing, pelargonium shoots appear. When the seedlings form 3-4 leaves, the pelargonium seedlings are picked and planted in open ground. Pinching (above the 6th leaf) the seedlings will ensure the further formation of a lush pelargonium bush.

As a rule, grown seedlings are planted in early summer. Planting is preceded by a period of gradual hardening of young plants. To do this, boxes with seedlings (2 weeks before planting) are taken outside for several hours. Every day the seedlings remain on fresh air increase.
Propagating pelargonium from seeds allows you to grow a hardy and stable plant variety.

Propagation of pelargonium by cuttings

Pelargonium cuttings are the most effective and common way to propagate the crop.
At this method reproduction young plant completely inherits the characteristics of the mother variety.
Cuttings are taken from healthy and strong plants to ensure optimal shoot development.
Pelargonium cuttings - apical shoots with 2-3 internodes - can be cut at almost any time of the year. It is better to make the lower cut oblique and air dry it for 1-2 hours.

Next, the cuttings are placed in moistened sand and left to root. For 100% rooting, gardeners often use drugs that stimulate the process of root formation. Preliminary disinfection of the soil substrate is also recommended.

The temperature in the room should not exceed +16-18 0 C, with a subsequent (as rooting) increase to +20 0 C. After about a month, the cuttings form a sufficient number of roots so that they can be transplanted into other containers and grown there to the state full seedlings.
After the formation of 6-8 leaves, pinching is carried out - removing the apical point of growth. The development of side shoots makes the pelargonium bush more fluffy and decorative.

Pelargonium, plant uses

Pelargonium has been used for quite a long time in industrial floriculture, municipal landscaping and in flower arrangements of private plots.
The crop is planted in open ground in flower beds, in portable containers or in hanging containers. In addition to planting in the garden, pelargonium is often planted as a potted houseplant.

Pelargonium looks great in the garden when decorating ridges, alpine slides or mixborders.
Thanks to the varied palette of colors of numerous varieties of pelargonium and the height of the bushes, from 10 cm to 1 meter, pelargonium is combined with almost all plants and is used in the most “bold” compositions. Pelargonium is planted with roses, sage, sedge, lungwort and cereal plants.

Pelargonium leaves are used to produce aromatic geranium essential oil. In addition, the flower secretes beneficial phytoncides that kill pathogenic microbes.
Squeeze from the roots of some types of pelargonium is valuable medicine in the treatment of infectious diseases of the ENT organs. Decoctions of perennial leaves are used in folk medicine for the treatment of diseases of the gastrointestinal tract and nervous disorders.

Perennial garden pelargonium does not require complex care, so even a novice gardener can grow a beautiful decorative flower in his flowerbed.

Pelargonium in the garden, photo

Video: Growing garden pelargonium

Most recently the bush blooming geranium on the windowsill was a mandatory attribute of a prosperous family. It was believed that pelargonium is the keeper of the hearth. The unpretentious plant has been squeezed out and given way to new types of flowers. Geranium has not been forgotten; caring for it at home often provides the first experience and develops into a hobby.

The history of geranium and the variety of varieties

At the end of the 16th century, either from India or from Africa, travelers brought flower seeds of an unprecedented fragrant plant with beautiful flower caps. At the court of the English queen there already existed a beautiful winter garden with strange plants. There the first three varieties of geranium appeared. They laid the foundation for numerous groups obtained through selection.

There are so many varieties of pelargonium that even classification is based on different criteria. When talking about indoor flowers, we use a classification based on decorativeness:

zonal;
ampelous;
fragrant;
succulent.

There are also varieties “Angels” and “Uniques”. They all tolerate it well room conditions life and during good care bloom almost continuously. Pelargoniums differ in the shape and color of their leaves and buds, but all are invariably fragrant and their esters are healing.

In summer, geraniums are displayed under an open window. It is believed that a plant on the windowsill drives flies out of the home. The leaves are applied to abrasions and cuts to quickly heal the wound.

How to properly care for geraniums?

Reproduction of pelargonium will not create difficulties. It is enough to tear off a petiole from the plant or buy a bag of seeds. The seed method of propagating pelargonium produces a more spectacular plant with large flower heads.

By cuttings you can quickly get a flowering plant. Rooting can occur both after placing the roots in water and when rooting in the ground. Since the plant takes root easily, you can create a mini-greenhouse and plant several petioles. Later, after soaking the substrate, take them apart and plant them in separate bowls.

Soils for pelargonium have different compositions:

leaf, humus, turf soil in equal parts plus half of the sand;
if the leaf soil is replaced by, then the proportions of all components, including sand, are the same;
garden soil, peat and sand in equal parts.

You can purchase special soil for these plants at a flower shop. In this case, any soil should first be disinfected with any in an accessible way. The container with a drainage hole should not be spacious; pelargonium blooms if the roots are cramped.

The place where the geranium is placed should be sunny. IN winter time the flower loves to rest. During the dormant period, the temperature drops to 13=15 degrees and shading is created. But if it is impossible to provide such conditions, then there is a rule: the warmer it is, the higher the illumination, even backlighting. And then the plant will not feel discomfort.

Pelargonium should not be fed in winter.

Geraniums are watered every other day in the summer, when it is hot, but overwatering can lead to root rot and black leg. Therefore, they water more often in summer and rarely in winter. Geranium will survive drought and recover, but excess water can destroy it. It is worth recalling that water for irrigation should be warm and settled. Fertilizer fertilizing with floral liquid compositions is done every other week, except for the dormant period. A special mixture has been produced for geranium, called “Pelargovit”.

As soon as the roots begin to make their way into the drainage hole of the pot, pelargonium needs to be replanted. Replanting the plant in early spring in 1-2 years. During the growing season, the soil needs to be loosened, while simultaneously checking whether pests or diseases have settled on the plant.

There are few reasons why pelargonium does not bloom. The appearance of the plant will help identify the problem.

The plant has good leaves, develops quickly, but does not bloom. Fattening is evident. Stop fertilizing watering and dry the flower. If the container is large, there will be no flowering until the roots fill the spaces.
Lacks . Place the plant in direct sunlight; if there are no bright southern windows in the apartment, provide additional lighting.
If a yellow border appears on the leaves, the plant has a depressed appearance, check for the presence of root and stem rot. Inspect leaves for the presence of whiteflies or other insects.

Detailed information about pelargonium diseases and how to deal with them can be found on the website. We can say that problems arise from improper care. Often, a pest or disease is introduced with soil or a new plant that has not undergone quarantine. Therefore, hygiene requirements are important, since it is difficult to eradicate the disease at home.

The plant loses its decorative properties due to dry air, overfeeding with nitrogenous fertilizers or the appearance of false powdery mildew. Timely detection of the disease will allow you to save the plant or take cuttings from it.

Video about pelargonium

Pelargonium zonalis is one of the most popular indoor plants. Not so long ago, this flower was forgotten by flower growers and could only be found on window sills in educational institutions. Today the fashion for pelargonium is returning.

Pelargonium zonal - varieties

This species got its name for the characteristic coloring of its leaves. There is a border along the edge or in the center of the leaves of Pelargonium zonalis. There are varieties with wide or thin edging, darker or lighter than the main color of the green, sometimes these are spots of purple or red-brown. Conventionally, all varieties are divided depending on their characteristic features:

star varieties have petals with pointed edges and can be simple or double;
cactus-flowering varieties are distinguished by petals twisted lengthwise;
Rosaceae varieties have gorgeous, densely double inflorescences, which, when opened, are very reminiscent of rose buds.

Varieties of zonal pelargonium are also distinguished depending on their growth height, from miniature to tall. The latter are often used for small ornamental trees. There are varieties that are not covered with inflorescences.

Growing zonal pelargonium

In order for the plant to delight with its flowering, it should be properly cared for. Zonal pelargonium is not a whimsical plant, but some features will have to be taken into account.

Location. It is advisable to choose a fairly light or slightly dark place. In summer, flowerpots can be taken out to the balcony and placed in the shade. In winter, the temperature should be within 15-16°C.
Watering. In summer, the plant needs abundant watering. With the arrival of winter it is replaced by moderate. Flowers of this species have the ability to accumulate water, so they will tolerate a slight drought without problems.
The soil. It is worth choosing soil that is fertile and well-drained. A mixture of turf soil, humus, peat and sand in equal parts is best. Instead of turf soil, you can use compost soil.
Top dressing. When caring for zonal pelargonium, it is good to periodically add microelements. In specialized stores, you can sometimes find ready-made pelargonite fertilizer.
Bush formation. Always remove all faded flowers to make the bush lush and branchy; the tops should be pinched periodically.
Transfer. Young plants are replanted annually. Work should begin in the spring, but before growth begins. The flowerpot should not be too large, since the shoots will be massive and leafy, but the plant will not begin to bloom.

Pelargonium zonalis - growing from seeds

If you want to propagate zonal pelargonium from seeds, be prepared for the fact that the varietal properties will most likely not be preserved and the seedlings will have new decorative qualities. This is manifested in the height of the plant, the shape and color of the leaves.

For sowing you will need loose and fairly fertile soil. If possible, it is always better to add a little sand or peat. Seeds can begin to be sown from the beginning of March. If you want to start earlier, you will have to prepare artificial lighting.

Drainage holes are made in small containers and a layer is poured. Then pour the soil and water it red solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are laid out on the surface and pressed just a little. To grow zonal pelargonium from seeds, place containers in a warm place, having previously covered all crops with transparent film.

As soon as the first shoots appear, the film can be removed. We place all containers on a windowsill with good lighting and water moderately. As soon as two or three true leaves grow, you can start diving. Propagation of zonal pelargonium in this way is the simplest. Subsequently, the flowerpots are placed in a bright place and watered moderately.

This plant is classified as a subshrub, but there are also herbaceous species. The stems can be straight or branched and creeping. The structure of the leaves also varies from simple to palmately dissected.

The inflorescences come in a variety of colors, from white to dark red.. Flowers grow like umbrellas. Umbrellas can be small or large, with complex branches.

The bud, according to scientists, has its own peculiarity, since the sepals open from bottom to top.

This amazing creation was born in South Africa. In the 16th century, voyages towards Africa began actively, from where they brought not only animals, but also plants. Among the treasures brought was geranium. Her beauty captivated Europeans. However, it was not adapted to the new climate.

Breeders soon adapted the flower, and it gained wide popularity in Europe.

Geranium was brought to Russia two centuries later. By the nineteenth century it was in almost every wealthy home. It should be noted that some species remain wild, and having adapted to the harsh climate of Russia, they developed in the open air.

So what is it - zonal geranium? This is a creature rich in appearance. It is a bush that grows upright with fluffy foliage. The top of the bush is decorated with bright small flowers. Most often they are red, white and pink in color.

Geranium has a characteristic smell. And it’s not the flowers that smell, but the leaves. Before purchasing such a flower, smell it. Not everyone likes its smell.

Indoor geranium reaches a height of up to 90 cm. This is a perennial plant. At the same time, it needs to be renewed, since the leaves fall out from below and the bare stems do not have an entirely aesthetic appearance. Grows quickly - up to 30 cm in 12 months.

Popular varieties

Zone geranium is the most common type. It has more than 75 thousand varieties. Of course, all these thousands look different. Some are completely different from their brothers. There is only one thing that unites them: all of their leaves have a zone painted in a different color. Hence the name was established “zonal”. This famous zone on the leaves reflects very well the health of the plant. The zone disappears at the slightest lack of light and appears when the stimulus is removed.

There is a generally accepted division of geraniums depending on the number of petals. So, they distinguish:

Non-double– 5 petals.
Semi-double– 6-8 petals.
Terry– 8 petals.

Also, Depending on the color and structure of the inflorescences, the following varieties of zonal geraniums are distinguished:

Dianthus.
Star-shaped.
Cactus-like.
Deacons.

Below you can see the photo different types geranium zonalis.

Where and how to plant it?

The plant should be planted in the spring, since it is during this period that nature comes out of hibernation and is set up for development.

You need to choose a small pot. In a large pot the roots will grow, but the flower itself will not. In addition, in a large pot, the likelihood of flowering is reduced to a minimum.

As for plants that are already a year or more old, they are replanted as necessary if the roots are already coming out through the holes for water to flow out. In this case, you need to choose a pot that is not much larger.

IMPORTANT! If the flower has reached a height of 25 cm, then it no longer needs to be replanted. The plant is considered mature. He only needs feeding. Frequent replanting may result in a lack of flowering.

So, in order to plant a flower we need:

Choose a small pot.
Lay drainage.
Scoop up to half a pot of prepared soil (a description of the proportions is given below).
Insert the cutting with roots and, holding it with your hand, add soil.
Water with settled water, you can add a product to improve root growth.
The pot should be placed in a bright place.
After 15-20 days you need to feed with fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium.

If you are transplanting perennial flower, then you need to trim the branches that have stretched out after winter, choose a larger pot, and repeat the above steps.

Lighting and location

Geranium loves bright light. Without it, it withers and does not bloom at all. However, it should not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise there will be burns on the leaves.

A south window is suitable if there is a tree growing on the street nearby or there is another structure that shades the direct rays. Windows from the west or east are also suitable. The main thing is that the light lasts for at least 16 hours.

Ready-made general purpose primer is suitable. For homemade soil you need to take: 2 parts peat to 2 parts garden soil and 1 part coarse sand.

Another version of the mixture: 2 parts turf soil, 2 parts humus, 2 parts peat, 1 part sand. pH should be 6.0-6.5.

Required good drainage . Excess peat can lead to stagnation of moisture, which is harmful for geraniums. In too fertile soil, flowering slows down.

Home care

Zonal geranium is not a supporter of temperature changes. In summer it needs 20-25 degrees Celsius, in winter 13-16 degrees Celsius. Does not tolerate dry air. You can spray the leaves with soft water. You need to water often: every other day in summer, once a week in winter. The remaining liquid that has leaked into the plate must be drained. Feeding is very important, especially during the flowering period. It should start in the spring and end in August.

IMPORTANT! In winter, fertilizing is not needed. The flower needs rest. During this period, the birth of future buds occurs.

Many people take flowers out into the garden for the summer. This has a good effect on the general condition of the plant. They love air. It is necessary to prune in the spring. Elongated and weak shoots will not bring any benefit. Pinching can increase bushiness, give a good appearance and stimulate flowering. Geraniums do not tolerate drafts.

You can also learn about the proper planting and care of zonal geraniums in this video:

Like all organisms on the planet, zonal geranium can get sick.

Geranium can be affected:

whitefly;
tick;
mealy worm;
aphids;
rust;
gray mold;
gray mold.

Chemical treatment can come to the rescue. You can buy them at a flower shop. They will tell you the order of use and dose.

Geranium may also have the following problems:

blackleg if the flower is overwatered;
reddening of foliage if the temperature is low;
lack of flowering, if the flower is re-approved;
yellowing of foliage, if there is not enough light.

These problems can be easily eliminated if the source of their occurrence is eliminated. Of course, There are situations when the plant is neglected and it can no longer be saved. Be vigilant and do not bring your pets to this state.

Features of reproduction

This plant is very easy to propagate. It can be propagated:

CUTTINGS. Its cuttings take root quickly. They practically do not rot. Reproduction can be done in spring, late summer or early autumn. They grow quickly.
SEEDS. To increase the germination rate, the husks need to be removed from the seeds. The seeds are sown in a special mixture consisting of peat and sand. This mixture should be moist but not wet.
It is possible to spray with a spray bottle to better dose watering. You need to cover with film. When sprouts appear on the surface, you need to put them in a bright place. After the cotyledons grow, the seedlings are planted in permanent pots.

Geranium is zonal, on the one hand an easy-to-care flower, and on the other a beautiful queen on the windowsill. The history of its origin is rich in various events. In other words, zonal geranium has done everything to be a worthy resident of our homes.