This short article clearly shows the main stages of making a cube from affordable and popular materials used in everyday life, namely from pots. I had the opportunity to buy the notorious kegs, but after thinking about it, I decided against purchasing them.
There are several reasons, the most important for me were aesthetics and the possibility of heating on an induction stove (in the very near future).
Because I checked the pans with a magnet, I found that they were simply excellent magnets.
The price issue here turned out to be secondary, because the cost of a 30-liter keg and two pans of similar capacity turned out to be approximately the same, but with pans I gain some advantages.
After some hesitation, I purchased two 18 liter pans.
The price of one is about 1200 rubles (prices as of March 2011).
Initially, the idea was to simply join them by tinning their flat edge edge, on which the lid rests.
At first glance, it’s a gain in time and ease of implementation, but the more I thought about it, the more I didn’t like it.
What I didn't like the most were the handles, they stuck out ugly and if you removed them, there were 8 holes that would be left behind.
An important factor is the height of the cube.
Two pots with a total height of about 55 centimeters did not inspire me either.
There was an idea to place them horizontally, like a railway tank, for example.
This could be suitable for a distillation option, but I didn’t immediately like attaching a column to the side of the pan. Purely technically feasible, but completely irrational.
However, such an option for a keg would be quite acceptable; its walls are much thicker.
The mass of the column is quite considerable and gradually the junction of the cube and the column will become a big problem in terms of the strength of the walls of the pan.
That's why I settled on a vertical arrangement.
Trying to achieve optimal efficiency in using the volume of pots and the height of the column, I drew large-scale sketches of a cube with a column.
With full height (with handles), and in the version where I shorten the pans a little at the place where the handles are attached.
The drawing was cropped, showing only the cube, but I drew it in full scale with the column and reflux condenser.
This way it immediately becomes clear where a tactical design error was made.
I liked the second option better. The height of the cube decreased to a reasonable 40 centimeters, and the height of the column increased to 200 centimeters.
I’m not losing much in terms of cube volume, but I’m eliminating the problem possible leakage in place of the rivets of the handles.
The result should be a cube with a total volume of about 28 liters.
In my opinion, a very reasonable volume in terms of possible movement and duration of rectification.
Personally for me optimal time no more than 2 days.
When sampling within 500 grams, I load about 10-15 liters of concentrated CC into the cube.
The rest is water.
Why 15 liters? Yes, it’s just that the stainless steel receiving pan has such a volume.
I immediately see what and how much, how much I poured, that’s about what I got, minus the volume of heads.
Having decided on the requests, we begin to eliminate the handles.
When dismantling the handles, I praised myself many times for deciding to remove them.
The handle itself is welded (quite efficiently) to the reinforcing plate, and then the structure is riveted to the pan.
Despite quite high quality appearance The rivets turned out to be the most common clad aluminum!
Imagining the consequences if I decided to leave these rivets on the cube, I shuddered at the thought of the consequences and potential problems, such as dismantling the soldered cube and fixing leaks.
When you would have to cut all this shit off, rivet it again, solder it, having first disassembled the cube!
And again, leaving after this 8 potentially dangerous soldering of new rivets.
Therefore, I decided to completely close the issue by completely removing the holes for the rivets, cutting the pans to the bottom edges of the rivet holes.
The pens themselves remained idle.
I'm thinking about making a removable metal hoop and riveting handles to it.
Then put this ring on the cube using a locking latch, it will be practical and safe.
But after three months of using the cube, somehow there was no need to drag it somewhere and gradually I abandoned this idea, although maybe I’ll make these handles when using it in an apartment.
Close-up of rivets.
Aluminum is pressed between two decorative washers.
For scales home cooking this method is justified.
For the needs of rectification, especially with alkalis, this is a time bomb.
The alkali will inevitably seep into the aluminum, it’s just a matter of time, the destruction of the rivets, followed by depressurization of the cube, is inevitable.
So, the pans are shortened, but you can’t just fit them into each other, these are not beer cans, but alloy steel.
We need a way to make the edge of one of the pans expand.
The most accessible is the metal riveting method.
All you need is a massive piece of metal, preferably round and, if possible, soft iron, although with practice you can use steel.
The soft metal reduces the possibility of a crack occurring if you hit it hard with a hammer.
Under no circumstances should you rush - it will take a decent amount of time and requires patience.
We wrap some kind of stop for restriction, knock in the place indicated by the red arrow.
The process stretches over several turns, first we hit the very edge of the pan, slowly turning it.
Traces of impacts are clearly visible. With
With each turn we increase the distance from the edge of the pan.
For those who don’t have the skills, try experimenting with large beer cans.
As a result, you should get a smooth expansion of the edge of the pan (indicated by the arrow).
Next, we carefully polish everything and service it.
The pans should fit into each other to a depth of approximately 8-10 mm.
Making holes in the bottom - no problem. The edges can be easily processed with a fine file for sharpening electric saw chains.
The large hole was made by drilling small holes along the contour of the circle and removing the middle.
The threads for the taps were cut using a 1 kW drill connected through a powerful LATR.
The whole thing took about an hour and a half.
The end result should look something like this.
Directly at the edges of the thread, the stainless steel metal peels off a little.
This doesn’t bother me; it will be clamped between the threads of the adapter sleeve and the nut.
There will be no access for liquid to the aluminum; all threads are taped with FUM.
IMHO, carving is purely my personal whim.
Don’t bother, it’s not at all necessary, since I additionally pressed it from the bottom with a nut with a FUM winding.
Everything will be fine without thread. I just had the opportunity to cut and I took it.
To clamp the large bronze clamping nut, a locking device had to be invented.
Made one at a time from scrap materials.
Carefully wrap the nut tightly around the FUM and insert it tightly into the hole.
The winding is made in the form of a cone, from top to bottom, so that from below the winding density continuously increases.
We scroll all this with effort, passing it through the hole.
From above, also in the form of a cone, expanding at the cube, we wrap the FUM.
There was an idea - to lubricate it with silicone, then I thought it was a whim and abandoned this idea.
We screw on the adapter coupling, pressing the FUM into the gap.
Remove the coupling and repeat the winding again.
I had to repeat it 3 or 4 times because the tape got caught in the space between the nut and the edges of the hole.
Below, near the surface of the pan, the FUM was wound in the form of a twisted cord, purely to press in the gap.
Having made sure that everything worked out as it should, we wind another FUM, take a powerful gas wrench in our hands and tighten everything to the maximum.
Very tight - but within the limits of reasonable effort, without being foolish, thread also has limits.
Then, after heating the bottom over a saucepan of boiling water (to shrink the tape), we pull all the connections one more time.
We collect top part Cuba.
Two transition pipes (under the taps) are threaded and tightened in the same way.
The taps can be easily twisted and screwed into, say, a tee to expand the technical capabilities (pressure switch, pressure gauge).
One faucet (horizontal) is purely drain, there is a tinned copper tube running down to the very bottom of the cube.
This allows, without disassembling the column, to supply a little air into the filling valve (vertical) and displace the bottom residue into the sewer.
The atmospheric opening of the reflux condenser is plugged at this point.
This also strengthens the body structure. Because the taps are located at the top, in the strongest part of the cube.
And they don’t stick out with an ugly pussy, causing disgust with their monstrous appearance.
If necessary, I remove the filling valve and screw in a measuring tube (adapter), which does not reach the filling level of the heating element by about a couple of centimeters. This allows you to work in steam generator mode without any problems without the risk of exposing the heating elements.
The tube begins to gurgle intensely, causing the temperature sensor to trigger.
The operation of the steam generator has been stopped, the heating elements have been saved from exposure.
Let us separately dwell on the acquisition and preparation of heating elements. I will need several stages of regulation for the column.
Having decided on the power and number of heaters, we think about their service life (more on this below).
For my cube, I settled on Aristons, removed from the mounting unit. I've been using them for a long time and overall I'm happy with them.
We go to buy, armed with a measuring device. We need to measure the coil resistance and insulation.
Having selected two heaters with the most identical resistances, we measure the insulation.
I bought those whose resistance was higher than 20 megohms.
A device with such a measuring range could not measure insulation resistance.
After servicing the heating elements (I have copper ones), we tin the terminal tips, having previously wrapped the exit point with FUM tape.
Since you have to use liquid soldering fluxes, you need to take care to preserve the insulation.
However, after unwinding the tape, I discovered with extreme annoyance that the insulation began to leak; the acid flux had done its dirty work.
We take a metal blade in our hands and carefully file the edges of the heater - cutting off the tube to a length of about 5 mm from the edge.
I measure the insulation, noting with pleasure that it has been completely restored.
Let me note in passing that the heater leads are immersed inside to a depth of about 70 mm.
I discovered this during servicing, when I applied a voltage of 70 volts to heat the surface and ensure high-quality soldering.
So, without any damage to the health of the heater, you can saw off within a centimeter.
After servicing, I briefly applied 100 volts and when the heating element heated up above the melting point of tin, I carefully wiped them with a cloth.
It turned out very clean and neat.
When installing the heaters, I was surprised to find that one was longer. Well, the costs of purchasing products from different batches.
After installing the heaters, I noticed that they were somehow not very firmly fixed; the walls of the cube were a bit thin.
I strengthened them by soldering them together using 2mm copper wire, just before the soldering of the cube halves.
Painted it in red. After soldering, the heaters turned into a monolithic, durable structure.
A logical question arises here: how to change the heaters if it burns out? As it should be - in a set, since they are selected, there is no point in replacing one. Since the neck diameter is 50 mm, there are no difficulties in installing new heating elements soldered together.
Well, you can take both out and, replacing one, solder them in again.
I will specifically focus on selecting the power of heating elements.
The column is such a thing that does not tolerate neglect in terms of power selection.
Therefore, when planning to make a column, think about optimal coordination with the heating power of the cube. It is very important.
For those who don’t want to think or whose ingenuity has been damaged as a result of drunken falls, contact Goodwin - he will help.
In short, for typical columns with a diameter of 30-40 mm, power is required in the range of 0.9 - 1.5 kW.
Let's start in order. I chose two heaters because of the very wide range of power control and the very long service life of the heating element.
I'm too lazy to read the basics of electrical engineering, so take my word for it.
I will almost constantly work with the column in two modes.
- With fixed power. (this is for the lazy, like me).
- With power adjustment, for example for working with a pressure regulator (pressostat).
I don’t want to use it in steam generator mode at maximum power, but I drew it for supporters of universalism.
In the first mode, I connect both heaters in series, and the power will be 4 times less full power heating elements (if they are equal).
This achieves several positive points.
- The resource of the heating element increases sharply, since it operates at a voltage of 110 volts.
- The specific heat load per 1 square centimeter of surface is sharply reduced (by 4 times).
For those who are afraid of toasted yeast, this is it.
It was smooth on paper. But what should those who have a somewhat non-standard column diameter do and need power, say, in the range of 1.5 - 1.8 kW, and ironically, they only have heating elements like mine - 2 kW each. I can already hear the cries of those who are confused about electronics - a “power regulator” is needed. Brilliant!!
Gee, (Chukchi: - but a tractor is needed!!). But no, however, a tractor.
And even with thyristor (triac) regulators, those who understand the essence of the process are hemorrhoids.
Our task is to provide the column with a consistent heating power for its performance.
I cannot address all the nuances of regulation. Let's omit the options with PWM and so on - this is a whim.
I propose to focus on the most typical option for adjusting power (by pressure in the cube) - with a pressure switch.
How most available option, which does not require large financial costs and in-depth knowledge of electronics.
There are two available options here:
- providing a given power control range from 1 to 2 kW. For example, in the first option.
- not so universal, but it allows you to achieve the most convenient control limit from minimum (by selecting the throttle) to maximum.
Those. The limits of power fluctuations can be significantly narrowed - and the power can be selected within, say, 1600 - 2000 watts.
This greatly facilitates the operation of the column when the control limits are precisely limited to its needs, from minimum to maximum.
Diodes must have a voltage of at least 400 volts (preferably 600) and a current of at least 10 A. Such diodes are not very expensive - within 30-50 rubles.
Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Here you can choose for yourself what suits you.
In the version with a choke, the main advantage is a uniform load on the heating elements, low currents on the contacts of the pressure switch.
By adjusting the number of choke turns, you can match the heating power specifically to your column, which will ensure the most optimal performance.
We have roughly decided on regulation and power. We solder the halves of the cube into each other - with the expanding part facing up.
We coat it with liquid rosin and, heating it with a small burner (quickly and evenly heating the seam along the length), fill the seam.
The task is completely ridiculous, since the tin simply spreads evenly inside the tinned edges.
It should look something like this.
View from above. Please note that the taps are located away from the location of the heating elements.
The drain valve (on the right) has a tube running inside it all the way to the bottom of the cube.
Through the filling valve (on the left), I supply air with a pump for inflating mattresses (manual 2 liters), 4 pumps - and water came out of the drain valve.
Let's say 5 liters of still residue fly out in about 40 seconds.
If the column is removed, I pour it through the neck; if there is a lot of water, I press the neck with a slipper and blow air - all the work is emptying.
A simple device that will require a minimum amount of time and expense is a unit made from a saucepan with water poured into the bottom. A stand for the tank is first placed in the pan, everything is covered with a basin, and the joints are greased with dough. The mash is poured into the pan and set on fire. From heating, the evaporation of alcohol-containing vapors begins and their cooling from the basin with cold water. After this, the alcohol will drip into the container. The result is a pure product in a proportion of ¼ (from 4 liters of the composition you get 1 liter of moonshine).
More the hard way execution of the design
IN this method In addition to the pan with a lid, you will need the following items:
2-meter tube made of aluminum or copper;
A pair of fittings with hoses;
Cut plastic pipe size 4.5 cm (for cooler);
Plumbing half-inch coupling with nut;
Jar with screw cap;
Pharmacy dropper;
Anchors with nuts;
Tin from beer containers;
Fluoroplastic tape;
Rolled aluminum (curtains, channels, corners);
Tubes with superglue;
Epoxy adhesive.
First, a coil is made from the tube, which goes around the pipe. Subsequently, a cooler is made from the plumbing pipe. After trying on the coil, you need to cut the pipe with a margin of 3-4 cm on each side.
At the next stage, fittings are glued to the outside of the pipe(for water inlet and outlet). Once the superglue has dried, holes are drilled inside the tube, corresponding in size to the inner diameter of the fitting.
A hole is made in the lid of the pan for the coupling, which should be tightened with a nut. After this, a pair of end caps are cut out for the cooler from tin can, which should fit closely to the plumbing pipe. At the ends, slots are made for the coil tube, the installation site of which is glued so that there are no gaps left.
At the next stage it gets divorced epoxy resin with silver, the ends and outlets of the fittings are filled with resin. Then the coil tube is bent and inserted into the steam chamber, which is cut off. The second exit is made from the steamer to the pan, and the tubes are connected with threads. The length of the tube coming out of the pan should be less than that going to the coil. When alcohol boils, only steam should enter it.
The outer part of the coupling with tubes is coated with epoxy resin. After this, a hole corresponding to the size of the tube is drilled in the pan and it is inserted so that the cut does not reach the lid by 0.5 cm. It is also secured on both sides with epoxy.
Now you need to make a lid holder, for which the ear of the anchors is sawed and unbent, a plastic tube or electrical tape is put on the handles. The channel is drilled and anchors are inserted into it.
All that remains is to attach the coil to the pan with stiff wire or galvanized sheet. A dropper is put on the outlet of the coil, the finished mash is poured in and the production of alcohol can begin.
It’s difficult for a novice moonshiner to immediately decide to buy a good one, but he needs to learn the basics of distilling something.
We will tell you how to make a moonshine still from a saucepan with a minimum.
Even if you don't have a saucepan big size and you will have to buy it, it will cost you 5–10 times less.
To create a simple distiller you will need:
- a saucepan with a volume of 7 to 40 liters, always with a lid;
- a stainless steel or copper tube 2 meters long - for the coil;
Peculiarities. Copper tube Can be used from an old broken refrigerator. A copper coil will ensure the release of a tasty, aromatic distillate, especially when using mash.
- a piece of plumbing pipe with a diameter of about 45 mm for the refrigerator and two plugs for it;
- . This is not a necessary thing, but very important for a moonshiner. It is the thermometer that allows you to qualitatively divide the distillate into fractions and take for consumption only the one that contains the minimum of harmful additives.
- fittings, couplings, fum tape, epoxy glue;
- materials for fastening the cover. They are selected based on the specific situation. This could be a pair of anchors and a piece of aluminum profile (if the lid is flat and you can remove the nozzle from it), small clamps or strong clothespins, a specially cut holder (if the handles of the pan rise above the lid), etc.
Reference. Most harmful substances are contained in the distillate, which drips very first, at a temperature of 60 to 75°C.
It contains poisonous methyl alcohol, acetaldehyde, ethers and acetone. This liquid is called heads and is poured out mercilessly. There is no drinking alcohol in it at all, because ethanol begins to evaporate at 76°C.
And at temperatures above 85°C, “tails” rich in . They are collected separately and used during the next distillation. Added to, they will increase the yield of high-quality strong moonshine.
Making a refrigerator
You don’t have to “spoil” the pan itself, but only remake the lid, so that in the future it can be used for its intended purpose.
But sometimes it makes more sense to connect the steam pipe to the side in the upper quarter of the pan. Here it’s the moonshiner’s choice. Let's consider the sequence of actions.
Regardless of whether the tube for removing alcohol vapor is in the wall of the pan or in the lid, you need a hole for it. Here are some options:
- There is homemade devices, where a ready-made hole in the lid (usually glass) is used for the steam line, to which a handle is screwed. In its place they put a fitting on which a silicone tube is placed leading to the refrigerator. There is no need for a distiller - just put the handle in place. IN glass lids There is almost always an additional hole for steam to escape. There are two options - either seal it (for example, epoxy glue), or expand it a little, equip it with a capsule and place a thermometer;
- drill a separate hole in the lid and also install a fitting;
- a hole is made in the wall of the pan, retreating 3 - 4 cm from the top, and a connecting fitting is installed.
Attention. It is extremely important to seal all connections so that alcohol vapor enters only into the tube provided for it, and does not break through the cracks. Not only does this result in loss of quantity final product, so it is also fraught with fire.
Assembly
If everything is done correctly, there should be no problems. But the most important thing in ensuring tightness is to secure the lid. Here - who will come up with what:
- if the handles are welded in metal, located on the sides of the container and do not protrude upward, the lid of the pan can be tightly and securely fastened using anchors and a strong strip ( aluminum profile, a strip of thick metal, a strong board, etc.) with corresponding holes on the sides. In this case, the anchors are hooked onto the handles of the pan and tightened with nuts until they are firmly connected. And the top of the pan with mash already poured in 3-4 layers is wrapped with fum tape, which will ensure tightness;
Advice. If you cannot remove the handle from the lid, you will have to make a cutout for it in the upper clamping profile you are using.
- The raised metal handles of the pan make it possible to firmly press the lid with any durable material by threading the clamp into the handles. Moreover, these can be two clamps on both sides, and the presence of a handle on the lid in this case is not a hindrance. Don't forget about fum tape;
- often the pans have plastic handles, so it is better not to use the option with anchors - the handles can break at the most inopportune moment. When seating the lid deeply, try to press it at least with clothespins (preferably with small clamps) and coat it with the usual dough together with the clamps. This ancient method of sealing a moonshine still works well today.
The creation of a moonshine still from a saucepan is not limited to the described methods. Many people even add columns to the structure and come up with their own ways of attaching the handle.
How do you feel about making a moonshine still from a pot? Are you ready for such creativity? Tell us in the comments. Like and share the article with your friends.
Due to the expensive and not always good alcohol on store shelves, many are starting to think about moonshine. And not in vain, because it’s well prepared homemade alcohol will be cheaper, and often much better, than the product manufactured in factories. In addition, an undoubted advantage is that a drink made at home may have a taste and aroma that cannot be found on store shelves, or its quality will be very controversial.
Due to the increasing popularity of moonshine, there are many stores with a large assortment of necessary products. home use devices that will satisfy the needs of any buyer. But, as a rule, the assortment provided may have a very high price, which makes you think about self-assembly moonshine still. The main objective of this article is to help with the manufacture of a container for a moonshine still - a distillation cube.
What is an evaporation cube
Before we begin making the container, let’s take a closer look at its purpose and principle of operation. . A moonshine cube is a container in which:
- The finished mash is heated, as a result of which various fractions begin to evaporate, among which is the ethyl alcohol needed by the moonshiner.
- Evaporating, the vapors enter the refrigerator through hoses, where the distillation process takes place and the ethyl alcohol fraction is selected.
Basic design requirements
In order for the process of preparing moonshine to proceed without problems, and the quality of the finished product to be impeccable, the evaporation cube must meet the following requirements:
Fulfilling all the above requirements is not as difficult as it might seem. There will be no problems with the material either; the most popular is food-grade stainless steel. It is resistant to high temperatures, relatively inert, cheap and accessible. Stainless steel stills for moonshine stills make up the majority of products in stores on this topic.
There are many ready-made examples homemade containers, so you don’t have to come up with the design yourself. But often it is necessary to use some tools, which include a drill, and you may have to use welding or soldering. Therefore, you need both the tools themselves and experience when working with them.
Some craftsmen can assemble a distillation tank from scratch, creating custom drawings workpieces, cutting metal parts from solid sheets of metal and their subsequent assembly. But this case is rather an exception, since it requires, at a minimum, good handling skills. welding machine and an angle grinder, and is more suitable for people who want to create something unique. For the average person who just wants to save money on buying a moonshine still, the most common running options will be listed manufacturing containers with minimal upgrades and costs.
Using a pressure cooker as a container
A pressure cooker is an almost ready-made distillation container that requires minimal modernization. It is completely sealed, the lid is well fixed. There is also a pressure relief valve, which eliminates the risk of explosion during the distillation process. Availability non-stick coating prevents the mash from burning on the walls of the cube.
The capacity of this container does not allow for large volumes of moonshine, which affects the overall performance, but this can be ideal option for people who do not have the desire or ability to create a separate distillation cube.
To transform a pressure cooker the moonshine still only requires drilling a hole and inserting a nipple and fitting into it, onto which the hose connecting the distillation cube to the refrigerator will be attached.
Cube from a flask
Milk flasks are popular in self-production cubes due to their availability and minimal amount of rework. Flask stills are ideal for distilling large volumes of mash, because the total capacity of such a flask can be up to 100 liters. The flask also has gaskets that will ensure a tight seal and can withstand the temperature during the distillation process.
According to the materials, flasks are made of aluminum and stainless steel. It is advisable to use stainless steel for the distillation cube. Although the effect of aluminum on the body has been little studied at the moment, it is better not to risk your health. To turn a milk flask into a distillation container, simply drill a hole for the fitting in the center of the lid, similar to a pressure cooker . To protect yourself from the explosion of such a cube, it is advisable to drill an additional hole for the pressure cooker safety valve, which can be bought in a store or ordered online.
If the flask is large, it is difficult to remove it from the stove, so you can also install a drain tap into the container, which will allow you to remove the mash after distillation without the need to carry a heavy container. You can convert the flask for electric heating; to do this, holes for heating elements are cut into the container. The number of holes depends on the power of the heating element and its shape, for example, one spiral-shaped one is enough, or two or more U-shaped ones. The holes are sealed using fum tape or special heat-resistant sealants and secured with nuts.
The presence of two heating elements in the flask will allow the mash to reach the temperature faster desired temperature, after which one a heating element can be disabled. This is very convenient for large volumes. Also, the use of heating elements instead of standard heating on the stove makes it possible to reduce the burning of the mash to the walls, which has a positive effect on the taste of the finished product.
Making a cube from a pan
If you don’t have a pressure cooker and you can’t get a milk flask, you can try making a distillation cube from a saucepan with your own hands.
To do this, you first need to remove the handle from the lid of the pan. Products Bad quality The lid can even be torn off by hand. If it doesn't work out, then it can be cut using a hacksaw. Then a hole for the fitting is drilled in the center of the lid, and, if desired, also a hole for the safety valve. Next, you need to come up with a seal for the lid itself, and a way to fix it. You can make an airtight gasket from a regular silicone hose by choosing the right size and sewing the edges together with regular thread. Paper clips may be suitable for securing the lid.
Distillation container made from kegs
You can also make a cube from a beer keg. It is relatively large in volume, sealed, has convenient handles for carrying, and the neck is convenient for pouring mash. The advantage is that a tube is welded to the keg cap, and to upgrade the keg into a moonshine brewing apparatus, it is enough to install the fitting with the tube facing outward. A silicone hose is attached to the tube using a crimp clamp, which will be combined with the distiller, and at this point the DIY beer keg still is ready for use.
Very often there are difficulties with removing the factory fittings, so it is advisable to purchase a keg with them already removed. If you have a closed beer keg, you should remove the fittings very carefully, as there may be pressure from residual beer and gases.
If desired, you can make holes for a thermometer and a safety valve, and embed heating elements. If the keg has a large volume, you can equip it with a tap for draining the mash.
Creating a container for a moonshine still with your own hands is a relatively simple process, and the cost is much lower compared to buying a ready-made container. If you have confidence in your abilities, It's better to make a cube yourself, adding to it everything you need for convenient moonshine brewing, which will save a lot of money.
Attention, TODAY only!
The Russian people responded to the increase in vodka prices by doubling the success of moonshine brewing!
This communist joke is relevant again! Due to the increase in vodka prices, many are thinking about making homemade moonshine with their own hands. Fortunately, it is not forbidden to distill moonshine for yourself, and the twice-distilled product, and even infused with herbs or juniper, is very tasty, and if you infuse it with oak chips and age it in oak barrels, it turns out to be cognac!
Anton comments:
Great article about the moonshine still!
Indeed - everything is made from improvised materials and right in the kitchen!
I wish there were more articles like this!
Vladimir comments:
There are no comments or suggestions. Trying the 2nd and 3rd distillations?
Flint comments:
Amazing! One of simple ways construction of a moonshine still, and according to the principle - all in one!
Georgy comments:
Everything is fine, but if only it had been done a little more carefully. Why do you need a moonshine still from China?
Kolya comments:
Hmm, what a Russian can’t come up with, as long as he doesn’t buy vodka!
Vasily comments:
Indeed, a moonshine still made from scrap material.
But instead of a saucepan better pressure cooker take!