Autonomous water supply for a country house from a well on your site. How to make a water supply system for a private house from a well with your own hands

A well for water supply can be of different depths, it all depends on what kind of water you want to receive in the end. For example, for an artesian, it is better to make a well. And if you need water for irrigation, or are simply interested in clean drinking water, then it is more advisable to make a well. We will touch on this topic in this article.

A diagram for connecting the water supply from the well will be proposed. And you will learn how to make a well and how to connect the water supply. The video in this article will show all the stages of the work.

The advantage of running water from a well

Before deciding how to make a water supply from a well, you need to clearly understand how this option will be better than a well and a centralized option.

The construction of a well has some advantages compared to the construction of a well:

This does not require the use of special drilling equipment or complex equipment. You will need simple shovels and 2-3 craftsmen to carry out construction work.
You should also clean it no more than once every 7-8 years, while the well must be cleaned regularly in autumn and spring.
Due to the fact that the well has a small diameter and a large length, it may not behave properly during operation. in the best possible way. In addition, you will have to invest a lot of money in construction. The price of such work will be quite high;
With the production of a well, you get high-quality water, the price for which will not increase every year. Therefore, such a design will quickly pay for itself.

Making a well

First we find. There is a detailed article on this topic on our website. When the location for the well has been determined, then we begin to extract the soil. This is a simple task, but the overall service life of the well depends on it.

First of all, you will need help. Digging workers with good physical fitness will be required. You can also use special equipment, but it happens that the equipment does not reach the right place. And if you need a depth of less than 10 meters, then it will be quite expensive.

In addition, an excavator bucket can destabilize the density of the walls, which will lead to their deformation and the entire water supply system of the well. To use special equipment for digging soil, you will need to invest additional funds to deliver it to your home, so it will be cheaper to do the work manually.

Choosing materials for the well

After the pit for the well is prepared, it is necessary to proceed to the next important stage - strengthening the walls of the pit.

To carry out this process use various materials, the main ones of which will be:

, this option is most often used;
Brick and natural stone;
Wooden logs, this material is now mostly used as finishing for the upper part.

If you decide to use the wooden log method, then choose a moisture-resistant type of wood. These can be pine or oak logs.

Using them may change the taste of the water. For example, if the walls of the pit are reinforced with pine logs, then the water will acquire the aroma of pine needles.

Attention: To save money, you can use reinforcement of the walls with bricks or concrete rings, but note that unreinforced concrete rings are susceptible to rapid crumbling.

The part of the well protruding above the surface is called the “head”. What it will look like depends on your imagination. Usually the head looks like a small log house, which is covered on top with a roof made of boards. It is not only convenient to use, but also attractive as a design element.

So:

The standard well model is made on the basis of reinforced concrete ring elements. The pit should be dug to the required depth. Then, reinforced concrete elements must be lowered into it one by one using a winch;

Attention: If you have loose soil on your site and it is difficult to immediately dig a pit, then you need to read how this is done in another way. There is a detailed article on this topic on our website.

Before purchasing rings, check their quality in advance and whether the production technology is followed: is the material homogeneous, dimensions, are there any cracks, and so on. It is necessary to periodically check the dimensions of the ring and the diameter of the pit during the deepening process. The vertical position helps to maintain a plumb line.

Attention: For any water supply system from a well, it is necessary to form a source. They dig it up at any time of the year, except spring, because the location of groundwater may not be accurately determined.

A sealing tape should be placed between them, which will make the structure more airtight. When performing work, be sure to ensure that the installation is perpendicular;
After installing the rings, we seal the seams. For this purpose it is used cement mortar. After it has completely dried, the seam should be treated with liquid glass, this will enhance the tightness;
Now we make a filter at the bottom of the well. To do this, backfill coarse gravel. We pour clean river sand on top and sprinkle fine gravel on top;
A blind area is made along the upper contour of the ground level, which has a diameter larger than the well by a couple of meters. Here the ground is lowered and after this the site is concreted.

Making water supply from a well

When working, you can use water pipes or polyethylene wells for water pipes, but all work is done in a certain order. Now let's figure out how to do this.

First of all, we decide what option we will have:

So:

Summer, in this design there is less work, the use of water supply will only be in the summer;
Winter the option will look more complex and costly. The winter one will need to be insulated and this must be done efficiently, otherwise you risk being left without water during frosts.

Attention: When using the water supply system in winter, the pipes should be laid to a depth below the freezing point of the soil.
Also, if you use an electric cable for heating, then it will be generally good. Pipes at correct installation should be well insulated.

What you need

To install a water supply system, you need to prepare the equipment; without complete equipment, it is simply impossible to do the work.

The absence of even one detail will not work:

Pipes: metal, polypropylene or metal-plastic. Here, choose for yourself. It all depends on your desire;

Plumbing fittings, fittings and taps. This should be selected depending on the cross-section of the pipes;
Equipment for lifting and supplying water: pumping station or . This must be selected depending on how much water you want to receive. We also do not forget that the pressure in the system also depends on the equipment;
Regulating devices: pressure gauge, expansion tank(hydraulic accumulator), pressure regulator.
Protection of electrical wiring from short circuits and overloads: circuit breaker or electric machine;

Attention: All wiring must be done using terminal blocks. They will provide a reliable and high-quality connection. Do not use twists. Their use can significantly reduce the duration of equipment use.

Water purification devices from pollution and suspended particles: filters.
Storage boiler (water heater).

Attention: When purchasing pipes and other consumables, you should also take into account the waste that will definitely be. Correctly calculate the slope of the system and the number of turns. This also takes a lot. For convenience, you should take adapters; they will greatly simplify installation.

For winter water supply

To operate the water supply system in winter, experts advise fulfilling certain conditions:

You need to choose the right pump. Determine the volume of water consumption. You shouldn't take it end to end. It is necessary to provide a reserve in the direction of increasing power by 20 percent;
For the pumping station and hydraulic accumulator it is necessary to select a heated room;
When insulating pipes, use only frost-resistant sealing options.

Water supply schemes

Before we tell you how to bring water into a house from a well with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the water supply connection diagrams.

And there are at least two of them:

One of the options is sequential pipe routing through tees. In this case, water is supplied from one distribution node to another. The advantage of this scheme is its cost-effectiveness: when using this connection option, fewer pipes are required. But there is also a minus. It is inconvenient to use such a water supply when taps located in different rooms. The water pressure in such a situation is distributed unevenly. And in case of repairs, you have to completely turn off the water supply. A sequential connection scheme is only good for a small house that has no more than one or two water distribution points.
Second, more in a convenient way pipe routing, the collector routing scheme is rightfully considered. This means that for each point where a plumbing fixture is installed, water is supplied individually. With this option, there is no need to turn off the water in the bathroom if you need to replace the faucet in the kitchen. There are also no changes in water pressure in the collector system. To maintain pressure in the system, an expansion tank is used, otherwise called a hydraulic accumulator.

To distribute the flow of water in the collector system, a tee and shut-off valves are installed after the accumulator. The water is then supplied to the cold water manifold and heater, where valves must be installed on each line.

Pipe selection

Before you begin preparing the area, you must decide which pipes you will use for installation. And the choice is quite large, and what tools and Consumables you will need during installation.

So:

Steel pipes are, of course, reliable and last quite a long time, but they have a drawback such as corrosion. Rust and scale, which regularly appear in water, cause certain inconveniences during the operation of the water supply: filters become clogged, pipe walls become thinner.
It's a different matter if you take galvanized steel pipes. Such coating of the internal walls, of course, increases their cost, but it will fully pay off over a longer service life. The only thing is that the installation of steel pipes must still be carried out by a specialist.
Because they are connected either by welding or threading. Both types of connections require special equipment and skills to use it. Cutting a thread on a pipe is no easier than welding, and any violations of the technology will lead to problems during the operation of the pipeline.

The same can be said about copper pipes - their installation should be carried out by a specialist. This is the most expensive and most durable option. We can say with all responsibility that it is competently constructed and well insulated copper plumbing can last much longer than your home.
There are no temperature restrictions for copper pipeline, so it can be used not only for laying cold water supply, but also for supplying hot water. The most reliable method of connecting copper pipes, providing perfect tightness, is capillary soldering, which is performed at high temperatures.
Although, threaded connections are also used here - especially when installing pipes in the house. We cannot ignore the fact that copper is resistant to oxidation and is galvanically compatible with many substances, including chlorine.
And one more thing: copper, like silver, is a non-ferrous metal. It is able to enrich water with its ions, and they suppress the growth of bacteria, significantly improving the quality of water. Everyone makes a decision based on their financial capabilities. Perhaps they will allow you to make just such a choice.

If you do not have such opportunities, turn your attention to polypropylene pipes. Of course, this polymer material does not have the advantages of copper. But when it comes to strength and lack of corrosion, polypropylene pipes even surpass some metal options in these indicators.
They are connected only by welding, using a special soldering iron with nozzles. PP pipes do not bend, so it is impossible to use them for internal wiring. But for hidden installation this option is ideal. The welded connection is extremely reliable, so the pipeline can be hidden even in a groove, under a layer of plaster, and not be afraid of leaking.

Metal-plastic pipes are also extremely popular. For self-installation This option is the simplest; you don’t even need instructions. All connections are made using a threaded method; you only need fittings, wrenches, and FUM tape.

The process of organizing water supply

The basement of a private house is ideal for compact placement of equipment for providing cold and hot water supply, or any utility room is used for these purposes. Another thing is important - all types of equipment installed and operating in the water supply system must be equipped with shut-off valves that allow devices to be disconnected from the systems during maintenance, repair or replacement work, without disrupting the water supply of the entire house.

To organize water supply, several sequences must be followed:

The process begins with digging a trench from the well itself to the house. The depth of the trench should be at least 1.5 meters, it depends on how much the soil freezes. Then a hole is made at the base of the well using a sledgehammer, which is then filled with solution. We will need a wet well on the water supply system to connect and we will need to place a pump there;

Attention: When digging a trench, do not forget about freezing of the soil. Insulate the pipe.

The next stage is lowering a flexible hose or pipe into the well, which is previously screwed to a pump with a check valve. Depending on the terrain, the depth is equal to the usual water intake depth;
It is necessary to lay a plastic pipe and a pumping cable into the trench. Typically the cable length should be 40 meters. If it is missing, then the cable will have to be extended. This will require some knowledge of the electrical system and compliance with safety regulations;
After the pipe and cable are laid, the connection begins. What method the connection will be made depends on the type of pipes themselves and what they are made of. Metal pipes are welded. Plastic pipes can be connected in several ways; it is important to ensure that the pipes provide a tight seal. Plastic is considered better than metal because when the water starts to freeze, the plastic pipe will not crack;

Attention: When making turns and connections of pipes, couplings and adapters should be used. This will ensure quality work.
At the same time, make sure that the connection is tight. Purchase materials only from high-quality and trusted brands. Then you won't have problems in the future.

The next step is to insert the pipe into the house. You should excavate the foundation and make a place in the floor that will not be so visible. Then the relay is connected to the system.

Attention: Be sure to check how well the device is configured, even if it has passed factory tests. The pump cable must be connected to the relay. The cover of the relay itself should indicate the sequence of actions for correct connection.

Now you need to connect the cable and pump to the network. You can install an outlet with a separate circuit breaker in advance. An adapter tap for pipes that are distributed throughout the room is installed on the pressure switch;
It is definitely worth installing a pressure gauge that will determine the pressure in the system. This will be especially needed in winter.

The process of laying pipes in the house

After running the pipe from the well into the house, the elements delivering water inside to the desired location are routed.

To do this, you must follow the following tips:

We install the water outlet through the tap at the bottom of the system. The tap will be needed for repairs or maintenance to drain water from the system;
It is not recommended to connect the bathroom with a plastic pipe, because the pipe may break due to pressure changes;
Such pressure drops damage the joining points of elements throughout the system, so the pipes should be connected to each other efficiently and reliably;

Now you have instructions for doing this job. The photo shows the stages of the work.
All this, of course, can be done in several ways. There are many articles on this topic on our website that will help you do almost any job at the lowest cost.

Water supply to a private house from a well is an excellent alternative to a central water supply. There are many reasons why this method can be called the best:

no need to deal with paperwork;
there will be no bills for the resource consumed;
high water quality;
water from the tap will flow regardless of scheduled and unscheduled repairs of the water supply system.

Advantages of supplying water to a home from a well

The well design has a number of advantages compared to other variations autonomous water supply:.

low cost of organizing water supply from a well compared to drilling an artesian or sand well;
ease of installation of the system from this source;
there is no need to obtain official permission to connect to the source from government organizations.
long service life of the well.

Difficulties most often arise if there is no well on the site at all or the old one has already dried up and become clogged. In this case, the intervention of a professional will be necessary, since an unprepared person, having dug a well on our own, may experience a number of problems in the future:

melt water entering the well in the spring due to improper installation of concrete rings;
low water quality due to incorrect choice of well location;
an unsuitable location can also change the balance of groundwater, which will come close to the surface, swamp the soil and undermine the foundation of the house.

As you can see, it is impossible to provide water supply to a private house from a well without certain skills and knowledge.

Water supply scheme for a private house

Once the location of the well has been selected, it is necessary to determine what elements the entire system will consist of. The main ones are:

reservoirs, water pressure relays, storage tanks, hydraulic accumulators;
pumping stations and other water-lifting devices;
pipes to create a water supply network.

Water supply from a well does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and other components of the system. As a pump, you can purchase the most economical option– external. However, its effectiveness is determined by the distance from the home to the well, that is, the closer the source is to the house, the more productive the pumping device will be.

To organize a pipeline network, it is better to choose metal-plastic or plastic pipes. This choice is explained by the fact that steel or metal pipes Over time, they will oxidize, rust and give the water an unpleasant taste and color.

Selection of materials for the well

The next most important step after preparing the pit is strengthening its walls. For this purpose they are used different materials, but the main ones are:

wood,
reinforced concrete rings,
brick,
natural stone.

The first method requires the use of moisture-resistant wood species, such as oak or pine. This may even change the taste of the water. For example, when using pine logs, it will give off a corresponding pine aroma for some time.

The cheapest option is to use concrete rings and bricks. But it is worth noting that if unreinforced concrete is used, the rings will quickly begin to crumble.

The most expensive, but without great advantages, is strengthening the walls of the mine with stone.

The part of the well that rises above the surface of the earth was previously called the well head. Its production depends only on the imagination of the master. Most often it is a small log house covered with a plank roof on top. This design is not only practical, but also a beautiful element of landscape design.

How to bring water into a house from a well

In order for a water supply system from a well to serve the user effectively and for a long time, work begins with finding out the location of the source. For these purposes, a frame (vine) is still used. Or they carry out geodetic analysis.

When the desired site has been found, you can begin to sample the land. Despite its simplicity, digging up soil is the defining stage of well installation. The lifespan of the source depends on it. The work here requires some physical training for the diggers themselves.

You can probably call on technology to help. But the most mobile and “skilled” excavators are unlikely to be able to take soil deeper than 4-5 m. In addition, the powerful intervention of a mechanized bucket provokes destabilization of the density of the walls. So, in further system water supply from a well will be more often subject to deformation of the walls of the source. The impressive cost of delivering an earthmoving machine and its operation also very often inclines the customer to choose manual labor.

A typical model of such a water intake is formed by reinforced concrete ring fragments. The mine is dug to a specified depth. Then the reinforced concrete elements are lowered inside with a winch, one by one. The latter are manufactured at different levels of equipment and production technologies. Therefore, it would be good to make sure in advance of the quality of the rings you are purchasing (uniformity of the material, identical dimensions, absence of cracks, etc.). During the deepening process, periodic verification of the dimensions of the ring and the diameter of the shaft is necessary. Verticality is maintained by a plumb line.

Any water supply system from a well begins with the formation of a source. In principle, it can be dug in any season. Only in the spring you don’t need to do this. You can make a big mistake with the location of underground hydroflows.

Automation of the water pumping process

If the water supply to a private house from a well is fully automated, then there will be no need to run around with buckets of water every time. This will require the use of special equipment. The main type of such equipment is a well pump. His device has a number design features, for example, the presence of a float switch and a strainer at the inlet. Also, any electrical device must be reliably protected from moisture getting inside.

In practice, two types of pumps are usually used:

with pre-installed suction grille. They are usually produced suspended installation, That is the best solution for silted bottom.
with a support that can be fixed to the bottom of a closed tank.

In this way, the process can be broken down into a number of small steps. Most of them can be done independently. The involvement of a professional will only be needed to select the location of the well and carry out electrical work.

Armed with the necessary tools and materials, as well as reading the recommendations and advice of experienced people on this topic, you can equip a complete water supply at home. The presence of a constant water supply makes it possible to develop the building infrastructure

Devices necessary for organizing water supply

Pump. It should be taken into account that the choice of pump depends on the depth of the well and the volume of water supplied. The deep submersible element has proven itself well.
Pressure switch. This electrical device is designed to turn off the pump after reaching a certain pressure in the system. Shutdown is performed automatically, according to the specified parameters.
Check valve. This device is needed to maintain the required pressure level in the pump and prevent water from flowing back into the well.
Pipe set.
Fasteners and corners.

Organization of water supply

The process of organizing water supply to a house from a well is carried out in several stages.

It is necessary to dig a trench from the well to the room. The depth depends on the freezing of the soil in a given region, but should be at least 1.0 meters. You need to make a hole at the base of the well. You can do this job with a sledgehammer and then fill the connector with solution.

Next, you need to lower a flexible hose (or pipe) into the well, previously screwed to the pump along with check valve. The depth should be equal to the normal water intake depth (depending on the area).

A plastic pipe is laid in the trench, and next to it is a cable for the pump. Typically, the cable length is approximately 40 meters. If the basic cable length is not enough, you can add the missing centimeters by “extension”. This procedure is performed only if you have minimal knowledge in the field of electrical supply. To work with the water pump cable, you should pay attention Special attention security.

After laying the pipe and cable, you can begin connecting. The method of connecting pipes depends on their type and material of manufacture. Metal products are joined by welding, and for plastic pipes there are several joining methods. Whatever method is chosen, the main thing is that it ensures tightness. Plastic parts have an advantage over metal ones in that they do not crack when water freezes.

After connecting the system, you need to connect a relay to it. You definitely need to check the device settings, not blindly trusting the factory settings. You also need to connect the pump cable to the relay. The surface of the relay cover indicates how these elements are connected to it.

The next step is to connect the pump cable to the network. It is recommended to install a separate circuit breaker and socket in advance for this purpose.

You need to install a tap on the pressure switch, which is an adapter for pipes distributed throughout the house.

Piping in a country house

After the pipe from the well has been laid into the house, it is necessary to make internal wiring of products that deliver water to the right place. To effectively complete this task, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

at the lowest point of the system you need to install a water outlet with a tap. This is necessary for draining during repair or maintenance work.
It’s better not to connect the toilet plastic pipe. Occasional pressure drops can cause pipe failure;
these same differences can damage the joints of elements throughout the system. Therefore, you should carefully consider connecting the pipes to each other;

There is another way to organize water supply from a well - using a pumping station. Unlike a submersible pump, such a unit has a limited immersion depth of up to 9 meters. The pump is unable to lift water from a deeper level. There are two types of such systems:

1. Pumping station with hydraulic accumulator. This mechanism is equipped with a surface pump and tank. Such a station involves pumping water into the tank until the required pressure is generated. When the valve is opened, water flows from the tap. The task of the surface pump in this design is to turn on when a certain amount of water from the tank is consumed. The advantage of this type of pump is that there is always a certain amount of liquid in the tank, which can be used up during a power outage or problems with the device.

Among the negative qualities of such a pump, possible pressure drops in the system should be noted. Long-term one-time water supply is accompanied by big amount turning the device itself on and off.

2. The automatic pump has the same operating principle as the surface pump. The only difference is that it does not accumulate water in the tank. Opening the tap stimulates the pump to start, and closing it turns it off. The automatic unit has special protection against dry running and is equipped with a filtration system. As a rule, such products are designed for fairly frequent turning on and off of water supply and, unlike surface ones, do not have problems with pressure drop. This pump is relatively small in size.

To install a pumping station you will need the following devices:

water filter (to protect the pump housing or tank from clogging);
idle protection relay (to prevent the pump from overheating if the water level in the well drops);
check valve (does not allow reverse flow of water after it enters the b
pressure switch (allows you to monitor the pressure level in the system);
automation unit (for placing a relay in it);
voltage stabilizer (to protect the electrical elements of the pump in case of voltage surges in the electrical network).

Before installing the pump, you should determine its location, as well as the distance from this place to the water source. Another important parameter is the depth of immersion.

As a rule, pumping stations are located inside a house or utility room, if the distance to the water source allows. If the house is located far from the well, the pump can be installed in close proximity to the water source. To do this, you need to dig a recess and carefully strengthen it and protect the device from moisture and the influence of ambient temperatures.

Each of the methods of organizing water supply from a well is good in its own way, and can be applied taking into account all the pros and cons. The main thing is that they make it possible to have a bathroom, shower or washbasin in the absence of a centralized water supply. Such systems are very common in dachas, suburban areas or in villages.

In the case where it is planned to operate the well throughout the year, and not just in the summer, during its installation it is necessary to follow some recommendations:

you need to carefully select a high-quality pump that will have the required power;
it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the thermal insulation of the well;
If possible, allocate a warm room in which the hydraulic accumulator and pumping station will be installed.

Water supply from a well requires careful organization of thermal insulation of the pipeline. There are several effective solutions for this:

use high-quality insulation material in the process of thermal insulation of pipes;
use a special heating cable;
bury the pipeline system below the ground freezing level.

However, it is quite difficult to carry out the last option, especially if the distance from the house to the well is quite large. Therefore, the most the best option will be a combination of all methods and the use of such a combined solution.

There are several ways to provide water country house:

Water supply from the central water supply. This may be problematic due to the high cost of work or due to too little water pressure from distant pipelines.
Taking water from natural reservoirs, which may be impossible if there is no lake or river nearby.
The construction of a well may be unreliable if certain types of soil or artesian waters are too deep.
Construction of a well, which may be the only acceptable way for an autonomous or cottage. This is especially important with increased water consumption for irrigation and other technical needs.

Well water supply

A well water supply device has a number of advantages compared to other options for supplying a home with fresh water:

Economical work. Digging a well is cheaper than drilling a well or extending pipes from the central route;
Digging a well by hand is possible for almost any person, without the use of complex equipment;
will be able to provide you with water for many years,
Well water will not be required extra costs– only small energy costs for pumps;
The construction of a well is possible without official permission.

The only drawback of such a water supply system is that the wells require periodic cleaning (about once a year) or more reliable system filtration.

Work on installing water supply from a well

Typically, work on installing a well water supply system is carried out in several successive stages:

Selection of a specific scheme and general layout of water supply;
Digging the well itself and trenches for pipelines;
and other necessary materials;
Installation of pumps and filtration systems;
Installation of pipelines from the well to the house;
Installation of equipment for supplying hot water and other household appliances – dishwashers, washing machines etc.

If each of them is done correctly, then you will not have any difficulties setting up the entire system and its subsequent maintenance.

Well construction

Selecting a location

The most important stage in the construction of an autonomous water supply system is the arrangement of the well itself. Experience shows that it is more convenient to do this in the summer and early autumn months, when groundwater drops to a minimum level. This will allow you to most accurately calculate the required depth.

It is very important to correctly determine the location for the future well. You can do this:

Focusing on folk signs. Typically, in places where groundwater flows close, the grass is thicker, juicier and greener.
Using a rod or two aluminum rods, the old fashioned method.
By inviting specialists with appropriate equipment.
Just ask old-timers about the locations of water veins on your and nearby sites.

Diagram of a water supply device from a well

When locating a well, be sure to take into account the presence of cesspools located next to it, compost heaps, toilets, etc. Such sources of pollution should be located no closer than 50 meters from the construction. It is also undesirable to locate the well too close to the house or your existing cellar, as this can lead to erosion of soil layers and shifting of the foundation.

Construction

Once a suitable location has been selected, you can begin to dig the well. First, decide what your future well will be like - wooden type, made of brick or stone, or made in the form of a vertical earthen shaft reinforced with reinforced concrete rings. The simplest and most durable way is to install concrete rings. They will protect against soil collapses from the walls and prevent the flow of dirty surface waters. Such rings can be purchased ready-made or cast by hand.

For concrete rings we dig a round well

First, a platform is leveled, on which a place is marked for digging a hole, the diameter of which is 10-20 cm larger than the diameter of the rings you prepared.
A hole is dug with a depth of 10-12 cm less than the height of the ring (finished rings are approximately 90-100 cm high). The excavated earth is sent upward (for example, in buckets using hands or a winch).
The first ring is placed in the dug hole, at the end of which several connecting brackets (at least 3) are installed.
Digging of a hole continues to the depth of another ring.
The previous ring is lowered down, and then the next one is installed in the brackets. A hole is made in the second ring for the pipe of the future water supply (with a diameter 1.5 times larger than the pipelines).
We continue to dig, repeating the steps described above, installing new rings, until an intense flow of water appears. Usually you have to dig until a layer of sand appears in the ground. This happens differently in different areas, most often after installing 6 to 8 rings.
You can go down another 0.5 meters, pumping out water with a pump.
Next, you need to cover the mine and leave the well to settle the water for at least 1 day. This is necessary to clarify the water level. IN ideal it will be more than 1-1.5 m from the edge.
Now you need to pump out all the water, lay small stones and a layer of crushed stone 40-60 cm thick on the bottom, which will filter the incoming water. The gaps between the reinforced concrete rings are sealed with cement mortar.

Materials and equipment

Now you need to select the necessary elements of the future water supply system. This list must include:

Installation for lifting water - pumping station or separate pump,
Storage tank or water reservoir (hydraulic accumulator),
Water shut-off valve,
Pipelines with all necessary fittings - shut-off, mixing and control.

Pump

The pump can be borehole, surface or submersible.

When choosing a pump, pay attention to its power (developed pressure and productivity). If your well is very deep and the water needs to be raised to a decent height, then this parameter is very important. Therefore, if the well is sufficiently far from the house, it is better to buy a centrifugal self-priming pump with an external ejector. Otherwise, you can get by with simpler models. Submersible and diaphragm pumps do not require the installation of additional water shut-off valves, but this is not always reliable.

Reservoir and valve

It is better to take a tank for collecting water from stainless materials (welded stainless steel or durable polymer). Its dimensions depend on the plumbing scheme you choose. The storage tank is usually several times larger than the water tank.

We seal seams connecting concrete rings

A water shut-off valve will be required to ensure that there is no loss of water, and that air does not enter the pipelines and pumping station, which can damage it. The valve can be purchased at a hardware and building materials store (in the plumbing equipment department). You can also make it yourself. The main thing is to ensure that it does not allow water to pass in the opposite direction.

Pipes and filters

– copper, steel, polymer, metal-plastic, etc. At the moment, water pipes made of metal-plastic are the most popular. They are valued for their resistance to corrosion, easy installation (they bend well, etc.) and reasonable price. For water supply, it is enough to buy pipes with a diameter of 16 mm.

In principle, any filter system can be chosen. Just make sure that it provides for easy replacement of filter elements.

Water supply diagram from a well

Plumbing layout varies depending on the device storage tanks. They are used for uninterrupted water supply, without constantly turning pumps on and off.

Scheme of water supply from a well

With storage tank

Any autonomous system water supply is a combination of a water intake source, a pressure pump, a control unit, a water tank, pipe distribution and control valves. When choosing a system with a storage tank, this tank (with a volume of at least 1-1.5 cubic meters) is installed in the highest place in the house (in the attic) and is well insulated to avoid freezing in the cold season. Water is pumped into it, which can then be piped for all household needs. Refilling the tank with water can be manual or automated.

With water tank

Also, a small sealed container can be built into the system, into which water is pumped from below. As the water level rises, the air above the water is compressed. When the pumps are turned off, there will be air in the system, which will provide air compressed in the tank.

All that remains is to install automatic feeding water. This is achieved by equipping the water supply system with an electrical contact pressure gauge, which regulates its timely switching on and off.

To carry out work on reducing groundwater pressure from outside, it is more convenient to immediately build a well using the “open” method, when the rings are lowered into an open pit by a crane. If the well is built in the traditional “closed” way, then the rings for work can be dug 0.5 meters around to provide access to the seams between the rings from the outside.
Waterproofing of seams and well rings themselves(concrete is a moisture-permeable structure) is performed as follows: the seams are puttied with the cement waterproofing mixture Plitonit Avkvastop or its analogues. If it is not possible to buy such a mixture, we use frost-resistant cement adhesive for tiles for exterior use, mixed with a small amount of liquid glass. Tile adhesive has greater adhesion, is frost-resistant and plastic compared to ordinary cement.
After the seams have dried, an EPDM waterproofing membrane (butyl rubber film) is glued over the seams, which is used for waterproofing ponds or swimming pools. In case of saving, only the seams + 20-30 cm up/down are glued. But it’s much better to cover it as much as possible large area the entire accessible surface of the rings. For gluing the membrane, suppliers have special adhesives for surface treatment, glue and sealants for treating the edges of the membrane.
There are also a more economical option for external waterproofing of a well: fusing bitumen-polymer waterproofing onto seams and rings. This method is somewhat worse because it does not prevent bitumen from getting into the water. To waterproof drinking wells, you cannot use bitumen waterproofing coatings. If you are waterproofing concrete rings for a septic tank, then use bitumen waterproofing materials you can freely.
An even simpler and cheaper way to externally waterproof a concrete well (but also less reliable): wrap the well with two or three layers of polyethylene film, which can be secured with plumbing (gray reinforced) tape or a glue gun.

External well drainage will reduce the backwater of groundwater and reduce the degree of frost heaving of the soil. With this scheme, they cover the well rings with a “sleeve” of a 30-50 cm layer of sand. Such a drainage layer will drain water from the walls of the well and significantly reduce the forces of frost heaving ( less water in the ground - less expansion when freezing). Need for traditional clay castle and concrete blind area With this scheme, there is no waterproofing, insulation or drainage around the well. The insulation laid in the ground, covered with a polyethylene film, the edges of which are glued to the concrete ring with a glue gun, plays the role of an underground soft blind area that drains precipitation away from the well shaft.

The immobility of the well rings relative to each other is ensured by the mechanical connection of the rings to each other according to the following scheme: From the inside of the rings, a hammer drill is drilled to ½ - ¾ of the thickness of the ring, a nylon dowel and plumbing studs are inserted. Two adjacent studs are connected using a painted galvanized steel plate with holes and secured with nuts. The plate can be secured with bolts. Some people simply hammer steel staples into the holes. The rings are fastened, of course, after the seams are sealed.

Scheme for combating sand drift into a well.

Most often, when digging wells, you encounter false quicksand: layers of fine water-bearing sand. It is from them that water for the well is often obtained. True quicksand contains not only sand, but also small particles of clay and other colloidal particles. A true quicksand does not give up water well.
False aquifer is capable of quickly sanding a certain height of the well ring when the aquifer is opened when digging a well. The massive flow of sand stops only when the pressure in the quicksand is balanced with atmospheric pressure. But such a balance does not mean that the well will not gradually become sandier. The springs emerging from the false quicksand carry with them thin streams of sand. And over time, you will find several large sand “volcanoes” at the bottom of the well.
To combat false (water-bearing) quicksand (the entry of sand through the bottom of the well), a bottom filter is installed. It should be noted that the device of the bottom filter in the well is not on a false quicksand May unnecessarily reduce water flow into the well: colloidal particles of true quicksand or clay soil will quickly clog the bottom filter.

Scheme of a bottom filter for a well.

Geotextiles or Dornit (similar to non-woven lining) that are highly permeable to moisture are placed at the bottom of the well. You cannot use geotextiles similar to black Izospan. Such geotextiles do not allow water to pass through well.
The edges of the geotextile are wrapped on the walls of the well. The geotextile is pressed to the bottom of the well with a grid of aspen or larch boards. Several large stones are placed on a wooden grid, and a 10-20 cm layer of crushed stone is poured. To further purify the water and improve its quality, you can lay another layer of geotextile on top of granite crushed stone and fill in small shungite or silicon crushed stone. With this scheme, the free edges of the geotextile are fastened in a circle inside the well ring with galvanized steel mounting tape using dowels and self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws for attaching mounting tape that will be under water are best used galvanized or brass.

Autonomous water supply from a well has several serious advantages over centralized water supply:

high quality water - no chlorine, rust, etc.;
ensuring the necessary pressure in the water supply system;
no water bills and the possibility of unlimited water use, including for watering the garden area.

It should be noted that it is quite difficult to do water supply for a private house from a well with your own hands. In addition, significant start-up costs are required. But the work and money pays off with interest after just a few years of operation.

Water selection

There are two main schemes for drawing water from a well. IN first a pumping station installed in the house is used, in second a submersible pump is used.

Do-it-yourself water supply from a well to a house using external pumping station has certain technical advantages - the presence of a built-in damper tank(other names: water tank, ), and control systems - pressure switch, working on a pressure switch.

In addition, installation indoors near power outlets eliminates the need for additional external power supply lines.

Submersible pump has a number of advantages compared to a pumping station:

Smaller devices can deliver water from greater depths;
The source of noise from operating equipment is removed from the room (noise level 60-90 dB depending on the power of the pumping station model).
Considering The best way cooling submersible pump can be long time continuously and intensively exploit.
Screw models have a high efficiency rate and are insensitive to solid particles entering the mechanism.

The cost of a submersible pump is much lower than that of a pumping station, but it must be taken into account that the water supply system from a well must have additional safety devices - dry running sensor, and control devices - pressure gauge, pressure switch. They will need to be purchased separately.

Installation of a submersible pump can be done in two ways. Vertical- then its lower part should be 50 cm above the bottom of the well. If the water level in the well is low or there is insignificant influx, it is allowed installing the device at an angle or horizontally. In this case, the water intake hole may be located at a distance of 15 cm from the bottom.

Power supply and control of pumping stations

To supply power to the submersible pump, it is optimal to use three-core copper cables with a cross-section of less than 1.5 mm 2. They are laid at a depth of at least 50 cm, after being placed in a protective polymer corrugation. As additional protection against mechanical damage, on top power lines bricks, ceramic blocks, stones, etc. are laid down. The trench is buried halfway, then bright polymer tape is laid as a warning.

The socket to which the submersible pump is connected is installed on the outside of the well. This device must be suitable for outdoor use and must have a degree of protection of at least IP-44.

The supply of water from the well to the house is controlled by a pressure switch, which is installed after the damper tank or in parallel with it. The relay type can be electromechanical (1) with mandatory protection from dry running or electronic (2) with soft start of the pump, this allows you to do without installing a damper tank.

The use of a damper tank in an autonomous water supply system allows you to reduce the number of starts of pumping equipment, maintains constant pressure in the system and reserves a certain amount of water - up to 1/3 of the capacity, in the event of a power outage.

Water supply to the house

Depending on whether the water supply from the well will be operated with your own hands seasonally or year-round, the water supply pipeline diagram may have different designs. In any case, the diameter of the pipe must be at least 32 mm; the material can be any polymer.

IMPORTANT! The pipe should be laid at an angle to the well. For every meter of length, the excess should be 15cm.

Seasonal use

If the water supply system installed at the dacha, from a well with your own hands, is planned to be used only in the warm season, there is no need for a deep trench and additional insulation. It is enough to install a simple tap to drain water from the system. It cuts into the pipe using a tee, after the check valve.

Constant use

A pipeline supplying water to the house year-round must be installed at a depth below the freezing level of the soil. For middle zone this is 1.6-2 m. It is advisable to produce it insulation. This could simply be a special thermal insulating cuff made of foamed polyethylene.

If the winters in the area where the well is located are more severe, active heating of the pipeline may be necessary. For this, self-regulating is used. It can be placed inside the pipe and secured through a gland. It is advisable to use this installation method only for polymer pipes. If metal pipes were chosen for the water supply, then it is better to place the heating cable at the top.

The cables (power and heating) must be connected through a separate circuit breaker, at least 3 - 5 amperes, and a residual current device with sensitivity to leakage current of no more than 10 mA.

Wiring the water supply system inside the house

An inch adapter - a fitting - is placed on the water supply from the well to the house, since all water fittings that will be used in the future have an inch thread. A ball shut-off valve is installed at the entrance to the system.

A brass five-pin fitting is used to facilitate the installation of a pressure gauge, pressure switch and tapping to the damper tank. After the fitting, it is advisable to install several cleaning filters and a dry-running relay.

IMPORTANT! It is possible to arrange a water supply network with simple tees, but it is more advisable to use a distributor manifold. It will maintain the same pressure on all cold water supply lines.

Connecting a storage water heater

The location of the ball valves directly under the water heater tank allows you to quickly drain the water if necessary. An important part of the circuit is the damper tank installed after the shut-off safety valve. It creates additional pressure in the hot water supply system, absorbs excess water during thermal expansion and protects against sudden emissions of hot water from the tap during prolonged operation of the water heater and non-use of hot water.

Well arrangement

In order for the quality of drinking water in a self-made water supply to be high, water from a well must enter the house from the lower water-bearing layers.

It is necessary to isolate the well from water from the upper layers of the soil. To do this, several methods are used to insulate the joints of concrete well rings.

Sealing and seam sealing

The cheapest way is a rope from natural materials, coated with liquid glass or fiber rubber (Kiilto Fiber pool), and laid in the inter-ring seam. It is much more effective to use special artificial sealing tapes (RubberElast).

Sealing can be done on both internal and external seams. For this, ordinary cement mortar with the addition of liquid glass or specialized hydrophobic compositions such as cement putty can be used. Plitonite Aquabarrier.

It is advisable to use combined methods and apply waterproofing putty to the sealed joint along reinforced mesh to prevent cracking of the seam when the rings are displaced.

It is also possible to use bitumen-polymer insulation fused to the joints of the rings outside or inside the well.

External drainage and insulation

The water supply to a private house from a well can be disrupted when well rings are displaced due to swelling of the soil when it freezes. In order to avoid this, it is necessary to dig the rings to a depth below the freezing level and install multi-layer insulation. A plastic film is glued to the rings, then a layer of insulation is installed and a sand layer 20-50 cm thick is arranged.

Bottom filter device

It must be arranged if aquifer formed by sandy quicksand. The bottom of the well is lined with construction geotextiles that allow water to pass through well or with a special material called Dornit. It is pressed to the bottom with a lathing made of larch or aspen, on which stones are placed and the whole thing is covered with silicon crushed stone in a layer of 10-20 cm. If necessary, the layer of geotextile and crushed stone can be repeated again. The edges of the canvas are pressed against the rings with steel tape, which is secured with galvanized dowels.