It was always difficult for creeping gardeners to fight wheatgrass, because this plant is endowed with a surprisingly tenacious root system - even a small root, getting into the ground, takes root and begins to grow in all directions, clogging plantings with its roots cultivated plants.
How to get rid of wheatgrass in the garden is one of the pressing questions of those who have got this kind of weed on their plots and cannot be mechanically destroyed.
Getting rid of wheatgrass with chemicals
The chemical industry has released whole line means that can be applied on the plots before other crops have not yet been planted:
- Hurricane Forte;
- Glyphos;
- Roundup;
- Tornado;
- Glyphosate, others.
A couple of weeks after treatment with wheatgrass preparations, the weed begins to die, the components of the preparations, thanks to chemical reactions, decay, and cease to be dangerous to other plants. You can start sowing seeds or planting seedlings.
It is also effective to apply herbicides after the crop has been harvested, and weather allow new weed shoots to germinate. After reaching a height of 20 cm, wheatgrass should be treated with one of the listed preparations.
There are herbicides that can be applied to growing plantings, grapes: "Fuzilad super", "Naboo". They act selectively, helping to remove wheatgrass from the garden without damaging or destroying the main crops.
It should be remembered that manufacturers warn about the norms for the use of funds - no more than 1 time in 3 years, be sure to follow the instructions in the instructions. The approximate result after using them is about 75-80% destruction.
The use of agrotechnical means to combat wheatgrass in the garden
Often gardeners are looking for ways to do without herbicides. Many ways to get rid of wheatgrass in your garden are aimed at reducing plant growth and reproduction.
For example, wheatgrass does not tolerate shading: if the area where it grows freely is covered with a dense black film, a layer of earth, peat, and straw is poured on top so that its sprouts are further suppressed, by autumn this plot can be cleared of weeds.
Some plants help to get rid of wheatgrass, next to which it simply cannot grow.
After plowing the area with wheatgrass and sowing it:
- corn;
- sunflower;
Sowing oats on the plot will help not only destroy wheatgrass in the garden, but also significantly fertilize the soil, which it depletes:
The benefit of this method is also that it helps, inhabiting areas with wheatgrass. You can try sowing oats with vetch or peas, which gives very good results.
Another interesting method is used, which allows you to immediately use the plot, on which creeping wheatgrass is hatched, for planting. Also, the method is very simple:
- Cardboard is spread on top of the grown weed, various plant debris is poured on top, amenable to decomposition - dry foliage, small branches from bushes and trees, etc.
- The layer is poured fertile soil mixed with turf is leveled.
- Along the edges of the plot, if desired, bricks, slate, boards are installed. It turns out a semblance of a garden bed or flower bed on which you can plant seedlings of flowers or vegetables. Wheatgrass under such a bed will disappear forever.
Weed Control Prevention Techniques
Preventing the growth of wheatgrass is the main rule to help prevent clogging of the site with this weed.
Wheatgrass sprouts that appear are immediately removed, thoroughly clearing the ground from all roots found in it. Even a small shoot, about a centimeter in size, if it has a bud, is capable of germinating.
Carefully use the introduction of not quite rotted manure to the beds, which probably contains seeds and pruning of wheatgrass roots.
Wheatgrass roots and spikelets with seeds should not be placed in compost heap... They retain their vitality, even if they dry out, and then find themselves in a comfortable environment for their germination.
Getting rid of wheatgrass from the garden is, of course, troublesome, but it is possible to defeat it. Often mowing, shading, oppressing, falling asleep with plant residues, gardeners will gradually be able to clear their plots of annoying malicious weed.
Mulch as a way to combat creeping wheatgrass
The gardener talks about mulch - one of the ways to combat creeping wheatgrass without the use of chemicals:
Of the many types of weeds, the most common is wheatgrass creeping. Measures to combat it must be carried out constantly, otherwise it is able to fill your entire site. It is called creeping for a reason, its rhizomes are able to creep into different sides, capturing all the new areas for themselves. Methods for getting rid of this weed began to be developed since ancient times. The peasants "combed" the fresh arable land with harrows, thereby dragging its roots to the surface and carrying them to the side of the road, resulting in whole shafts of pulled out roots. That is why wheatgrass was also called harrow.
Since then, nothing has changed much, and gardeners are still trying to remove creeping wheatgrass from their plots. Of course, new measures have appeared, but also old way used just as actively. It must be said that the presence of weeds also entails. Firstly, because of the weeds in the soil, the consumption of natural moisture decreases, which means that additional watering is required for cultivated plants. Secondly, soil fertility is depleted - additional feeding is required. And, of course, weeds are carriers of diseases and pests that infect
Weeds are distinguished by high seed productivity, which can long time stored in the ground. In addition, they are able to reproduce vegetatively and with the help of rhizomes. The last of the listed methods of reproduction uses the photo below, which is a confirmation of this.
Wheatgrass likes to settle on moist, loose and humus-rich soils. It multiplies rapidly on them, especially during the autumn rains and wet spring. During the hot period, when the summer is dry, it slows down its activity, at this time favorable conditions creeping wheatgrass is waiting. Control measures for this weed are as follows:
In places with a large accumulation of this weed, sowing rye helps well. But it will have to be sown for two years in a row, but the soil will completely get rid of wheatgrass.
If you use a lawn on your site, then monitor the planting density, you cannot leave bald spots, it is there that weeds appear. Try to get high-quality planting material, without admixture Well, if wheatgrass has appeared on the lawn, then a systematic short mowing will help. The weed has grown by 5-6 cm, the lawn should be mowed right there, usually once a week.
It is easiest to remove wheatgrass in the spring, when the seedlings are just emerging, especially if the weed has grown from seeds. The fact is that rhizomes appear only after 2 months.
Here's another way to remove wheatgrass creeping. Control measures that suppress the weed are planting plants that will gradually survive it. Dahlias are often used for this.
Well, the last method is a chemical effect on the weed. Products such as Roundup Ultra and Roundup Ultragan help get rid of weeds by 90%. They are quickly absorbed by plants, moreover, they can be applied with dew, and in the soil through a short time decompose. It is especially effective to use herbicides during the period of active growth of wheatgrass. The optimal time is the period after harvest, when the shoots of the weed grow back and reach 15-20 cm in height. But remember that herbicides should be applied carefully so as not to harm crops.
I would like to note that wheatgrass, the photo of which is presented in the article, is endowed with healing properties... V folk medicine it was used as a blood purifier and for diseases of the urinary organs and respiratory tract. Its rhizomes contain essential oil, polysaccharide triticin, organic acids, saponins and carotene. And confirmation medicinal properties this weed are our cats and dogs. Of all the plants, they choose wheatgrass to improve their health.
Any gardener and gardener has to deal with weeds in their area. One of the most common and difficult to remove weeds is wheatgrass - this plant is ubiquitous, penetrates into any nooks of the garden, and is also a perennial. Its "persistence" and unpretentiousness make wheatgrass very strong enemy, therefore, to fight, they use different methods: from folk and home remedies to heavy artillery in the form of poisonous herbicides.
In the article, we will consider the features of combating wheatgrass on the site: we will find out what harm this weed brings, what preventive measures will help prevent its appearance, and how you can remove it forever.
Description and harm
Creeping wheatgrass - perennial belonging to the family of cereals. In total, this family owns more than 1000 different types herbaceous plants: most of them are weeds. Some species of wheatgrass, including those growing on our household plots, capable of reaching a height of one and a half meters.
Due to its size, wheatgrass greatly shades cultural planting... And this is in addition to the fact that it also depletes the earth, sucking out nutrients from it, which are intended for the development of crops.
The root of the weed can go up to 20 meters deep, which greatly complicates the fight against it. And in width, the root of a plant captures a three-meter area around its stem. The weed is completely unpretentious, and feels quite well on any soil, even rocky: its long and powerful roots will get food from any depth.
Wheatgrass is considered by many gardeners to be the most dangerous and harmful of all types of weeds. And this is not surprising: the damage caused by wheatgrass and its amazing vitality justify such an opinion. The weed reproduces at an amazing rate, and in a short time it can fill the entire area if measures are not taken in time. Moreover, the distribution area of the plant is very significant, although it reproduces vegetatively.
The plant has tremendous vitality, and it is a shame that such valuable properties are inherent in the weed, and not in the valuable agricultural crop. Judge for yourself: wheatgrass is not afraid of cold weather, tolerates drought, and its long period, the plant is practically invulnerable to any external weather influences. And its seeds germinate at a temperature of +3 degrees. If horsetail appears on your site, then you should follow the link and read information on how from it
In the video - how to get rid of wheatgrass in the area:
Wheatgrass is dangerous for all garden crops, but it is especially harmful to potatoes and strawberries. In the beds with these crops, wheatgrass is "atrocious" twice: it sucks nutrients from the ground, blocks its leaves and stems sunlight, creates conditions for the reproduction of fungus, diseases, rot. Sometimes the weed causes damage so serious that it completely destroys the crop.
In addition to harm to the crop, wheatgrass is also dangerous for the machines that harvest this crop. Their mechanisms are clogged with weed, which leads to a decrease in productivity. In hot and dry summers, wheatgrass can also be the culprit and accomplice of the fire. It will also be useful to learn about how to get rid of dandelions on the site, and what means in this fight are the most
Prophylaxis
What measures will help limit the spread of wheatgrass in the area.
Shading
If you do not want wheatgrass to grow on the site, make more shady areas on it - the weed cannot stand the lack of light. 
Legumes
It is known that wheatgrass does not tolerate the proximity of plants from the legume family. Plant them on the site to scare off the weed initially. You can plant peas, beans, or even sunflowers with corn, radishes.
Oats
This cereal is an undesirable neighborhood for wheatgrass. It can be used as green manure, leaving it on the ground after mowing. After three plantings, according to experienced farmers, wheatgrass disappears from the site forever.
Control measures
Since wheatgrass is a malicious weed (that is, the most difficult to destroy), the fight against it is serious. The main measures to combat wheatgrass today are the following:
- Mechanical destruction... This includes mowing, weeding, manual removal of rhizomes.
- Digging the earth... The method is also often used, moreover, one way or another, but it is always necessary to dig up the beds in any vegetable gardens.
- Mulching... If the cultivated plantings are mulched (with film, organic matter), then the weed will not be able to break through the dense layer.
- Chemical etching... The method is used very often, and sometimes it is the only one capable of coping with wheatgrass thickets.
- Siderata... Plants called "green fertilizers", planted annually in front of the main crops, can ward off wheatgrass from the vegetable garden in a few years.
- Folk ways... This includes various home recipes, folk wisdom, invented by generations of gardeners.
Let's consider these methods in a little more detail.
Mowing
In order to cope with wheatgrass in this way, the grass must be mowed several times per season. 
Note that you cannot get rid of wheatgrass forever with this method, since only the top is mowed, and the root remains in the ground, and then germinates again. In this way, you can get rid of on your site.
Digging
This method is rather laborious and tedious. It is necessary to dig up the ground, carefully removing the roots of wheatgrass from it. Once it will not be enough, you need to dig it up several times before the wheatgrass disappears from the garden completely.
Mulching
Enough reliable method fight. In addition to wheatgrass, mulch will prevent other weeds from sprouting. You can use materials such as film (black), sawdust, grass, hay, expanded clay, non-woven fabric, etc. 
Traditional methods
The video shows the fight against wheatgrass in the garden:
Rhizome removal
This is, albeit a primitive, but the easiest way to fight. Plus it's pretty effective. It is better to take not a shovel for the operation, but to use a pitchfork - it will be more convenient. The advice is explained by the fact that the shovel will cut off the root, and its parts will remain in the ground, and then continue to divide and multiply. 
It is necessary to pick up the bush with a pitchfork, and then pull it out of the soil by force. The bush must be shaken off the ground, and then, having collected several copies in a heap, burned. Likewise, you can destroy, but there are other methods of struggle.
Cutting off the young
The essence this method in the regular and methodical cutting of foliage of young wheatgrass. You need to cut at the root, even going a little deeper into the soil. Actions are carried out until the weed leaves all attempts to germinate.
Cultivation method
The harder you can crush the roots of the weed with a cultivator, the less likely the plant will survive and germinate.
Shadow creation
Wheatgrass is a light-loving plant, and does not settle in shady places. If you artificially create a shadow for it, the weed will soon wither away, and then completely stop growing.
You can mulch the beds with black film (when growing strawberries - very important). This method will completely eliminate weeds from cultivated areas.
Chemicals
If wheatgrass on the site cannot be dealt with sparingly folk methods, or if the weed has grown significantly, you will have to use chemicals... They are quite effective, and besides, you will feel the positive effect immediately: you do not have to wait weeks and months, as when using folk methods.
Means of chemical origin penetrate deeply into the tissues of the weed, poisoning it, killing it completely. Just do not forget to protect yourself with special clothing, glasses, gloves before spraying herbicides.
So, we will consider the most effective chemical preparations in the fight against wheatgrass.
Roundup
In addition to the listed funds, the following are also effective in the fight:
- Tornado;
- Ground;
- Agrokiller;
- Fusilade.
Note the low toxicity of these drugs: in addition to the direct destruction of weeds, they can be used for prophylactic purposes. The period of the detrimental effect on wheatgrass of most of these drugs is a week: that is, the treatment has passed, and after a week or a little more the weed will wither.
EM drugs
These funds are also used for spraying on the site, however, their composition is not chemical, but biological. This makes EM drugs harmless. the surrounding nature, harmless for people, animals, beneficial insects, future harvest. The impact on the weed occurs due to the microorganisms contained in the substance, which feed on the plant.
EM drugs
In addition to the environmental friendliness and effectiveness of these funds, we also note their nutritional composition: EM preparations perfectly fertilize the soil, make it more fertile. The following biological agents have shown the greatest efficiency in unequal weed control today:
- Shine;
- Amix;
- Baikal-EM-1;
- EM syrup;
- Revival.
So, we examined the features of the fight against wheatgrass on the site. As you can see, this weed can cause considerable harm to the crop and even the harvesting units, therefore it is necessary to deal with it using all available methods. With the help of the tips from the article, you can destroy wheatgrass for a long time, or even forever - and garden crops will thank you for this with abundant harvests.
Creeping wheatgrass - perennial herbaceous plant from the group of rhizome weeds. Wheatgrass possesses high degree harmfulness on crops of cultivated plants due to increased moisture consumption and removal of mineral nutrients, as well as allelopathic effects of toxic substances secreted by the roots.
The main mistake of an agronomist is a mediocre attitude towards dusty fields. Many do not pin great hopes on these fields of obtaining high yields and push their importance to the background when making certain agronomic decisions. And wheatgrass, in turn, grows on loose and nutrient-rich soils.
Measures to combat wheatgrass creeping are divided into agrotechnical and chemical ones.
Agrotechnical control measures.
The golden rule of Terenty Semenovich Maltsev:
“A dusty field that goes under steam should be squeezed as deeply as possible crosswise in the fall, just before the frost, so that the rhizomes do not have time to grow. In loose soil, they freeze out in winter. "
In the spring, emerging from the surviving rhizomes "schilts" are poured over. Throughout the summer, wheatgrass is prevented from forming leaves and stems. At the end of autumn, the field can be plowed without plowing.
“With this technology of caring for couples, wheatgrass dies completely. Its rhizomes literally turn into humus over the summer. In a field where there was a lot of wheatgrass, bread grows steamed better than without weeds. "
Thus, we can conclude that wheatgrass can never be defeated by a separate agrotechnical operation and the problem should be solved by a set of measures.
Chemical control measures.
The main mistake many agronomists and farmers make is to rely on one pre-sowing treatment herbicides of general destructive action in the fight against wheatgrass by a chemical method.
In my practice, there have been treatments using three and four liters of glyphosate. We also "ironed out" the wheatgrass spots by driving the sprayer back and forth several times. We even tried 10 liters. Unfortunately the effect of spring processing any dose is the same. The wheatgrass dried up and grew again in the crops.
Accordingly, the principle of integrated control must be maintained and the second stage consists of processing the crop with a maximum dose of graminicide during the growing season. As you may have guessed it will be possible to fight only in the crops of dicotyledonous crops.
The final and most important stage is autumn processing exclusively isopropylamine salt of glyphosate acid. Why potash salt is not suitable in autumn, you can read in the article
This treatment can be carried out both during desiccation and after harvesting the culture. I hope readers understand that in the fall, rhizome weeds have an outflow of nutrients into root system and glyphosate will achieve its goal.
Output.
The methods of "strangulation" and "exhaustion" are axioms in the fight against perennial rhizome weeds. If you have your own thoughts, considerations and methods for combating the creeping adherence, please share in the comments to the article ...
And do not forget that creeping wheatgrass is a host plant for such fungal diseases as Pyrenophorosis / Yellow Spot of Wheat (Drechslera tritici-repentis), which can reduce yields by 20 to 50%.
Eco-friendly homestead: Wheatgrass creeping is a pioneer plant. It quickly occupies the territory where the land was previously intensively cultivated, fertilized with mineral and even organic fertilizers and also constantly plowed, cultivated or dug up. Usually wheatgrass grows in one place for up to 7 years, and then gradually gives way to other plants.
Creeping wheatgrass is a pioneer plant. It quickly occupies the territory where the land was previously intensively cultivated, fertilized with mineral and even organic fertilizers, and was also constantly plowed, cultivated or dug up.
Usually wheatgrass grows in one place for up to 7 years, and then gradually gives way to other plants. But nevertheless, we will not wait 7 years, but will begin to get rid of it already this spring (it is possible in summer or autumn, if you read the article in summer and autumn).
Some use chemical herbicides, referring to the fact that "They are also allowed to be used." But what is allowed is not always useful. Remember that they will not do anything good. By the way, weeds very quickly get used to herbicides and then they need to be poured more and more. Surely, your health and your grandchildren's health is more important to you than the enrichment of corporations, both chemical and pharmaceutical.
By the way, remember that wheatgrass is not only an obnoxious weed, but also a useful plant.
If wheatgrass only grows here and there, then you can dig it up and try to select all the roots, but this article is more about how to get rid of wheatgrass if it has filled a huge area.
How to deal with wheatgrass creeping on the lawn
The easiest way to fight is used where you want to make a natural lawn. In this case, you will need a tool or equipment for mowing grass (scythe, trimmer, lawn mower). By the way, a trimmer or lawn mower is even more convenient. It is necessary to constantly mow wheatgrass, very quickly he will get tired of it and he will pass the baton to other plants.
Nice lawn from white clover, as it grows back quite soft and it is pleasant to walk on it barefoot. And walking barefoot in the morning dew is doubly pleasant, plus even more useful.
Knotweed (bird knotweed) is also good. It is soft, pleasant to step on, and does not need to be mowed as it grows close to the ground. He also loves controversial people to be walked on - it reproduces like that. And vice versa, where the knotweed does not walk, it grows reluctantly, or even disappears altogether.
If ordinary meadow grasses grow, that's fine too. The main thing is that it will not be wheatgrass. Meadow grasses very good between beds. They can be mown periodically and used as garden bed mulch. By the way, between the wheatgrass beds at first it does not interfere too much either. To prevent its rhizomes from clinging to the beds, you can use curb tape. First, you will mow down wheatgrass, walk on it, and soon it will leave.
You can also use bluegrass and bent grass for wild lawn. These plants grow quickly and produce a pleasantly soft carpet. The only thing is, in extreme heat, they can turn yellow, but after rain they begin to turn green again. Their rhizome is not the same as that of wheatgrass, but still they can easily climb into the garden. Therefore, it is advisable to fence off the beds from them with a curb tape.
There is also an opinion that this weed does not like the neighborhood with dahlias.
How to deal with wheatgrass in the garden
Fighting wheatgrass in the garden is not so easy, but feasible. Described below different ways fight against wheatgrass, and you choose those that are more suitable.
1 way. Extermination of wheatgrass by picking roots
Picking wheatgrass roots from the ground is a well-known method. The main thing here is to carefully choose the roots, while it is advisable to use not a shovel, but a pitchfork. This is due to the fact that even a piece of wheatgrass rhizome allows it to grow quickly, and thanks to a shovel, the roots are more crushed. In addition, digging earth overgrown with wheatgrass with a shovel is practically hard labor. In this case, you will have to spend much more energy than digging with a pitchfork.
Disadvantage: this method requires a lot of effort and time. Practically you will have to sort out every lump of earth.
2 way
This method is the opposite of the first. Here it is recommended to grind the rhizome into small pieces (with a walk-behind tractor, a motor-cultivator, shallow plowing - no deeper than 20 cm). This stimulates the germination of the buds, which are "asleep".
What is so good about it? Sprouted buds are more weakened than an adult wheatgrass - after all, they take the strength for growth from a small root. It is easier to choose such plants from the ground, since they do not yet have such a branched root system as the “parent”.
But you will need to quickly work with them so that they do not have time to build up a branched root system. As soon as green shoots have appeared, they need to be pulled out of the ground. Agrarians of traditional agriculture use repeated cultivation and pruning, and also "comb out" the rhizomes from the site using special equipment.
The minus is the same: it takes a lot of time and effort. In addition to wheatgrass, other weeds from seeds can sprout. In addition, crushing the roots through plowing leads to the destruction of the capillary structure of the soil and the death of microorganisms that make the soil fertile. This is especially true with repeated cultivation and plowing.
Summary: in its pure form, this method is highly undesirable in natural agriculture.
Method 3. How to get wheatgrass out of the garden and harm the land less
Similar to the second method, but with some refinement. In practice, he answers the questions of how to get rid of wheatgrass with improving soil fertility.
After crushing the roots (with a walk-behind tractor, a motor-cultivator, shallow plowing - no deeper than 20 cm), the site or individual beds are sown with siderates, which wheatgrass does not like. Remember he doesn't like crap, cruciferous plants and pulses. In fact, you can use the same siderates as for getting rid of the wireworm - you get a double benefit.
In addition, wheatgrass does not like shading, and fast growing green manure will provide this shade. He does not like rye either, but wireworms love it, so it is not advisable to use it. In addition, rye also dramatically dries up the soil.
Advantage over method 2:
Although root crushing occurs, the capillary structure of the soil is destroyed and microorganisms that make the soil fertile die, there is also positive side... The shattered roots of wheatgrass are weaker at the beginning of growth than adult plant... Plus, with rapid growth, siderates shade wheatgrass and even inhibit it by releasing substances that it does not like.
Siderata will help to quickly improve and structure the soil, nourish it with missing substances, and also drive out wireworms. Good double sowing of vetch oat or pea-oat mixture, as well as sowing oil radish.
This method can be used for a quick recovery. large area... If you want to grow some vegetables in the same year, it will be difficult, although if you plant seedlings, you can get a harvest this year.
Alternatively, you can clean only part of the area in this way, and use a different method on the other part.
4 way
The next option is spring pruning of young wheatgrass plants. In this case, you do not need to go deep. Cut with a Fokin flat cutter, "Swift" or other familiar tool to a depth of 5-7 cm. In this way, remove the grass, the point of its growth and part of the rhizomes. What you cut off - choose from the garden - it's easier than choosing all the roots from a depth of 20 cm (when compared with the 1st method).
Wheatgrass rhizomes will receive a signal to grow new grass and awaken dormant buds. The grass will grow, and you again cut it by the same 5-7 cm. It is possible that the next germination of wheatgrass from the 2nd generation of dormant buds is also possible. BUT for each germination he will have less and less strength. Practically in this way you will exhaust the wheatgrass and he will have no choice but to die or "crawl away" to those places where he is not disturbed.
The plus of this method- the structure of the soil is almost not destroyed.
Minus: you are unlikely to have time to sow something in the spring or plant from cultivated plants. Although, after cutting the siderates, you can try to plant some seedlings, taking into account the crop rotation. Also, instead of siderates, you can immediately sow or plant cultivated plants, but which drive out wheatgrass. Read about these in the 5th method.
5 way
This method is also based on two weaknesses wheatgrass - intolerance of strong shading and dislike of legumes and cruciferous crops... In some ways it is similar to the 3rd way.
First, we plow the area, but not deeper than 20 cm. If the area is small, then you can get by with a hoe or a flat cutter (for example, in a garden bed). Then we plant Jerusalem artichoke and sow a mixture of seeds: lettuce, radish, radish, peas, beans, corn, sunflower. Sow not very thickly, but spread out. This mixture is good because it does not give the wheatgrass a chance to survive. The fact is that these cultures are of different heights and form a dense “carpet”. Plus, they release substances that our favorite weed doesn't like.
We also get the following advantages:
more tall plants cover from the sun moisture-loving and cool-loving neighbors (this is important in hot regions);
stepped disembarkation helps protect against the effects of hail. The taller plants will certainly suffer, but at the same time they will protect the lower crops. Accordingly, you will get at least some kind of harvest, something will survive.
This method was spied on by Sepp Holzer. True, there is doubt about planting Jerusalem artichoke, sowing corn and sunflower. Traditional agronomists say that these crops should not be planted in an area inhabited by wireworms.
In monoculture, all of these 3 plants suffer from wireworms, and in addition from larvae May beetle... But this is in traditional farming when growing a monoculture. It is likely that pests will lose their appetite when growing a mixture of plants. I think we need to do an experiment. You can plant Jerusalem artichoke in one area (bed) and sow a mixture of seeds of the above-described crops, and on another bed refuse Jerusalem artichoke and, possibly, corn and sunflower. That way you can determine what works best.
6 way
This method is also recommended by Sepp Holzer. Here the weakness of wheatgrass to germination from the depths is used. What to do? It is necessary to remove a 20-centimeter layer of earth along with wheatgrass rhizomes and other weeds and lay these pieces of land with a green mass down. On top, you can lay another layer of wheatgrass. Then the earth is taken, poured over the boulders.
The total height of the ridge together with the lower layers of weeds is up to 1.5 meters. The slope of the hilly bed is about 60 degrees. If we consider that the top and the edges of the wheatgrass will be covered with earth, then it will no longer germinate, but will begin to rot. Perhaps somewhere it will sprout, but if you densely occupy the ridge with vegetation, then there will be no place for wheatgrass. You can get rid of everything in one go. On such a hilly ridge, you need to plant a variety of plants, including those that do not like wheatgrass (for example, a group of plants from the 5th method)
This method can be used with twofold benefits:
1. get rid of wheatgrass;
2. The place where the land is selected can be used to organize a warm bed.
7 way
This method is also from the great Austrian agrarian, but it is clearly not suitable for everyone. The fact is that it is supposed to use pigs here as "destroyers" of wheatgrass roots, as well as various pests(wireworms, May beetle larvae). After the pigs have worked the soil, it is planned to sow a mixture of various crops: cereals, salads, cabbage, root vegetables and other vegetables.
Yes, this method is as environmentally friendly as possible, but it certainly cannot be applied in small areas (if only due to the lack of specially trained pigs).
Method 8. How to kill wheatgrass in your garden with mulch
After you mark the beds, lay a 25-35 cm layer of mulch - hay, grass, any weeds (preferably without seeds, but if there are any, it's okay. Birds can handle weed seeds). It is best to lay such mulch for a year. This will achieve the following results:
1.under the mulch, moisture is formed, various terrestrial inhabitants are activated and reproduce well, including earthworms and thus a fruitful land is formed;
2. wheatgrass can pass this layer, but since its roots are located at a depth of 15 cm, it will try to get out of the dungeon. Let its roots come out of the ground and it will sprout, but then the rhizomes fall into the mulch layer. Then you just have to grab the wheatgrass grass and pull it up - the roots are no longer in the soil and are easily pulled out. You can listen to this interesting method in the video:
SUBSCRIBE to OUR youtube channel Econet.ru, which allows you to watch online, download from youtube for free video about health improvement, human rejuvenation. Love for others and for yourself, as a feeling of high vibrations, is an important factor
The structured recycled land is ready for sowing and planting of crops in the next season. Such land does not need to be dug, but it is enough just to process it with a flat cutter (Fokin, swift or others) or with a hoe.
You can then either sow the plant mix from Method 5 or other similar plants. Various crops can be planted. BUT remember the wireworm. If he is on the site, then you need to get rid of him, therefore at first it is better to plant those plants that he does not like, as well as sow siderates. Buckwheat and cruciferous plants are very good. They are harmful to wheatgrass and drive wireworms out.
Method 9. Beds and flower beds of quick production
The attractiveness of this method in minimum cost time and effort. This method should not allow the wheatgrass to break through to the surface. You will need cardboard, mulch, various garden waste, earth, compost, you can also add a little ash. The principle of operation is shown in this picture:
1. we prepare the site - if a flowerbed is supposed to be framed with stones, then a ditch should be dug along its perimeter to install stones. If it is a garden bed, then either use curb tape or boards.
2. First we put cardboard, paper, old newspapers and sprinkle them with water. Better yet, pour over water with the addition of effective microorganisms. Stones or something heavy are needed only so that the wind does not blow this structure away. If there is no wind, then you can do without stones.
3. On top of this layer, lay garden debris, weeds, soil mixed with compost, ash. We frame everything with a border of stones. Advice: it is better to immediately install a curb or frame and then fill the ground. This is especially true for the beds.
By the way, if you choose between newspapers and cardboard, it is better to stay on cardboard or, in extreme cases, black and white newspapers.
It will be interesting for you:
Then you need to cover the ridge with mulch (you can use black agrofibre) and leave for 1-2 weeks. Or, if there is time before the main planting, sow green manure. After that, you can start sowing seeds or planting seedlings. It is important that if the bed is not high, then in the first year you can plant pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons (if the region is hot). But with carrots you need to wait until next year otherwise, it will be all bent and you simply do not want to clean it. published by