Dangerous diseases of the trunk of apple trees and their treatment. Professional advice. How to find out what an apple tree is sick with

On each suburban area with a garden, you can almost certainly find an apple tree. These trees have been loved by summer residents for a long time, and are successfully grown all over the world. They not only bear fruit in autumn, but also perfectly decorate the territory in spring and summer. Unfortunately, like any plant, apple trees are susceptible to diseases, we will consider the fight against them and their description in our article today. Each ailment has its own unique set of symptoms that are easy to recognize with the right information. Therefore, you just need to know all this in order to successfully cope with difficulties and take preventive measures.

What causes ailments:

1. Fungi;
2. Cancer cells;
3. bacteria.

Fungal:

• Scab;
• Powdery mildew;
• Cytosporosis;
• Moniliosis.

Most effective methods wrestling:

• Spray tree crowns with organic and chemical sprays.
• Treat the near-stem space under the apple tree.
• Take care of the tree, cut dry and diseased, damaged branches. Avoid damage to them, as well as damage to the bark. Harvest on time, do not let the fruits overripe. Water and feed the plant. Protect from insects and rodents, even in winter.

As medicines, standard preparations suitable for other plants in the garden are used. Bordeaux liquid, or, quite effectively protects against fungal diseases.

Bordeaux liquid, recipes:

1. Recipe: Dilute 300 grams in 10 liters of water blue vitriol, and 300 grams of lime.
2. Recipe number 2: For 12 liters of water, add two tablespoons of copper sulfate, one tablespoon liquid soap, which does not use flavoring.
3. Recipe number 3 (with cytosporosis): For 10 liters 40 grams of vitriol.

Another pretty effective tool is a solution of colloidal sulfur.

1. Recipe: For 10 liters of water, 80 grams of the drug with a concentration of 70%.

First of all, at the first manifestation of the disease, of any nature of the lesion, it is necessary to immediately take precautions and quarantine. Remove infected elements such as: foliage, branches, bark, fruit. After that, they must be burned, away from other fruit trees. Before using secateurs and knives and other tools, disinfect them. Especially if you first worked with a diseased tree, after which you moved on to working with healthy ones.

Apple scab, symptoms and control.

it fungal disease occurs in connection with:

• Excess moisture;
• Excessively dense crown, with increased foliage growth. Thus, a dense shadow is formed.
• A large amount of precipitation, especially dangerous in the spring.

Initially, the scab appears on the leaves, after which it moves to apples. The pathogen is carried by wind and precipitation.

Symptoms:

1. Brown spots with an olive tint begin to appear on the tree.
2. Further spots appear on the fruits themselves, they can be small, but in large numbers, then cracking and decay begin.

Treatment and prevention:

• In autumn and spring, treat with urea (half a kilogram) per ten liters of water. 5 liters of liquid per tree.
• Treat twice a year with copper oxychloride (40 grams per 10 liters). The first time in early spring, before flowering begins, the next time after the apples are tied.
• Treat the crown with Bordeaux liquid.
• Carry out the treatment with fungicides: "Fitosporin M", "Horus". Before use, be sure to read the instructions on the package, and follow it exactly.
• Contribute foliar top dressing with the help of mineral fertilizers. They are used both for diseases (15% potassium salt solution, 10% ammonium nitrate, 15% potassium nitrate, 10% ammonium sulfate) and for prevention, but in the second case, much lower doses are used.
• Constantly remove old, dry branches, and damaged by diseases.

Powdery mildew of apple tree:

Another dangerous fungal disease, which primarily affects leaves and inflorescences that have recently formed.

The reasons:

• Increased air humidity and soil.

Symptoms:

1. On the affected areas, a specific white coating, which gradually becomes brown or brown.
2. start yellowing and curling leaves on an apple tree. Then they begin to dry, and eventually completely fall off.
3. The last phase is marked by the appearance of black dots throughout the trunk.

From the very beginning, plaque is quite easy to remove, but over time it eats in more and more and it becomes much more difficult to do so. If left untreated, the yield of your garden will suffer greatly. If a powdery mildew run, you can lose half of the fruit. In addition, it lowers the plant's resistance to cold, and earlier hardy trees may not survive next winter.

Fighting methods:

1. Spray the tree with a solution of colloidal sulfur, copper sulfate, 1 percent Bordeaux mixture. Processing is carried out in early spring, as soon as the leaves begin to bloom. It is necessary to carry out several procedures in this particular time period. Then, if necessary, carry out another 2-3 treatments, the interval between them is at least two weeks.
2. Fungicides are used in early spring, after all vital processes are started in the plant. Processed strictly according to the instructions, you can use drugs: "Skor", "Topaz" and others. The maximum number of treatments per season is 4. It all depends on the reaction of the apple tree to the treatment and the degree of its initial damage. Unfortunately, powdery mildew is very resistant, so keep an eye on the tree even after treatment.

Apple Cancer:

Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to cure such ailments, and as a rule, the tree dies. As a result of this apple tree disease, it almost completely rots from the inside. The causes of occurrence are different, but gardeners identify the most common of them:

• Long periods of abnormal cold or heat;
• Incorrect trimming, too rough and without post-treatment;

First, the trunk, or the most powerful branches, is affected, then the cancer spreads throughout the plant, after which it dies. The main symptoms of common apple tree cancer are the following manifestations:

1. Cracks in the trunk and large branches;
2. Atypical outgrowths appear;
3. Branches begin to die.

How to prevent:

• Take proper care, and do the circumcision according to the rules, treat the damage sites with garden pitch, without rosin and drying oil in the composition;
• Remove branches with cancerous manifestations;
• Remove the bark, near the affected areas;
• Regular treatment with antiseptics.

Black apple cancer, control measures:

Mature trees are susceptible to this scourge, unfortunately the disease progresses very quickly, and therefore it is almost impossible to cope with it. As a result of exposure to the pathogen, rapid drying and death occurs. Causes of black cancer:

• An excessive number of fruits per season, as a result of which the plant is exhausted;
• Planting in loamy soils with excess moisture;
• Mechanical damage to the bark and branches;

The main features and their photos:

1. A black coating forms on the bark, structurally it can resemble sand. Black or brown spots also appear;
2. Not far from the surface, at a height of about 40 centimeters of the trunk, the processes of decay begin, and the bark cracks, it begins to fall off;
3. A black rash begins to form around the circumference of the rotting sites.

Treatment and prevention:

• Remove branches on which you notice signs of defeat;
• Strip the affected bark, and areas in the vicinity;
• After removing the branches, be it prophylactic or sanitary, be sure to treat the cut points with a 3% copper sulfate solution;
• Further, on top of the solution, apply oily paint, which contains drying oil;

Unfortunately, these methods can only slow down the course of the disease, but not stop it.

Cytosporosis:

A fungal disease that affects the bark. The main reasons why it starts:

• Wrong watering regime, insufficient amount of moisture;
• Poor soil quality;
• Insufficient amount of fertilizers and dressings;
• As a result of severe damage to the cortex.

Symptoms of cytosporosis and photos:

1. Dark ulcers on trunk and branches;
2. Ulcers spread throughout the tree, old ones expand in diameter;
3. The bark begins to peel off, and the shoots die off;

If you do not take action, the apple tree will die due to disease.

Fighting methods:

• Try not to damage the bark, and if this happens, treat the places with garden pitch or drying oil.
• In early spring (during the period of bud swelling), spray the trees with fungicides: Hom 40 grams per 10 liters of water.
• Before flowering begins, treat your garden with blue vitriol.
• Feed with potassium and phosphorus in autumn.

Remember, the sooner you start treatment, the greater the chance of success, so carefully inspect your orchard, and in case of suspicion of cytosporosis, start acting.

Moniliosis:

Another, no less insidious disease caused by the activity of fungal organisms. Through damage to the protective cover, infection with moniliosis occurs. Manifestations begin during flowering.

Signs:

1. Leaves and inflorescences turn brown, then they dry up and fall off;
2. Apples also begin to rot, at first the spots are small, then they grow, yellow spots appear, begin to fall off;
3. The fruit becomes soft, the taste gives off alcohol;

This disease is very common in almost the entire territory of Russia, especially in the Caucasus, Siberia, and the Urals. There are regions where moniliosis affects almost all plantings, this greatly reduces yields, since apples do not have time to ripen and begin to rot.

Treatment and prevention:

• Harvest and destroy affected fruits, especially those that remain on the tree until winter.
• Remove branches and shoots that have undergone moniliosis.
• Treat crowns with Khon or another fungicide. Do this twice a season, during the time when the leaves begin to form, and after the garden has faded.
• In the affected areas, treatment with a 5% urea solution is carried out.
• Avoid forming a very thick crown.
• It is better to choose a landing site, on open space where there is constant circulation of fresh air.
• Constantly dig up the soil near the trunk.
• Keep sufficient distance between the trees in the garden.
• Fight insects, they often carry diseases.

Do not store sick apples with the rest, the fungus will be transmitted to them. It is best to destroy them immediately after harvesting.

Bacteriosis or bacterial burn of fruit trees:

Bacteriosis is caused by a gram-negative bacillus. As a result, flowers begin to fall from the branches. Age does not make any difference for this bacterium; both young seedlings and adult units can get sick. But, as a rule, the bacterium is brought into the garden along with the planting of new, young seedlings.

The process starts as a result:

• Abundant, warm rains;
• abnormally high temperatures.

Symptoms:

1. Black, watery spots appear all over the plant.
2. The leaves become dark, look like burnt, but do not fall off.
3. But the flowers, after darkening, begin to fall off.

Fighting methods:

• Before planting, check seedlings for diseases.
• It is necessary to destroy insects.
• The soil must be treated with a liquid: 60 grams of vitriol per 12 liters of water.
• Sanitize the apple tree in the fall, and burn the branches.
• In the spring, treat with Bordeaux liquid.

Milky shine of apples:

The disease is caused by a fungus, manifests itself on shoots, branches and leaves. Milky shine can lead to the complete death of the tree.

The reasons:

1. Lack of minerals.
2. As a result of damage to the bark during severe frosts.
3. Lack of systematic watering.
4. Unsuitable planting conditions (lowlands, wet soils).

Main features:

• The lesions change color to silver-milk, with a pearly tint.
• Fruits are not tied on a tree or an affected branch.
• Branches die within a few years.
• The fruits fall off.
• Problems start around July.

How to treat:

1. Carry out top dressing orchard;
2. Remove the affected branches, then treat the pruning sites with garden pitch and 1% copper sulphate solution.
3. Be sure to carry out the whitening procedure.

Less common problems:

Apple rot is not a disease, but a consequence of problems. If it is not accompanied by other, serious symptoms, just remove and dispose of them in time so that the problem does not spread.

Root cancer is difficult to identify and overcome. Since with manifestations visible to the gardener, as a rule, nothing can be done. The reason is the poor quality of the soil.

You can find it only when transplanting a tree, then it will be necessary to remove all growths on the roots, and thus save it. Next, remove the contaminated soil, and replace it with a new one.

Major diseases of fruit trees. Causes, prevention, treatment.

As you can see, there are a lot of problems, unfortunately most of them are difficult to cure or not at all amenable to it. Therefore, it is so important to carry out top dressing in time, systematic watering, and also to destroy pests that spread fungal spores and bacteria throughout the site.

It happens that on a good healthy apple tree suddenly appear spots and cracks, the leaves begin to fall off ahead of time, the fruits are deformed and the yield decreases. Such damage can be apple bark diseases.

To help the tree get rid of the disease, it is necessary to determine reason injury and use for treatment proven funds.

That is why this article is devoted to the topic "Diseases of the bark of apple trees and their treatment" (photos of diseases will be presented in the relevant sections).

bark - Front edge apple tree protection. The health of the wood through which the vital forces of the tree pass depends directly on the integrity of the bark.

It is important to carefully monitor and promptly respond to any, even minimal, damage to the cortex. Wounds and cracks open the way for pathogenic microbes and pests into the body of the apple tree.

And the treatment of apple bark in autumn, summer and spring is simply necessary!

The nature of the wound

non-infectious

Fast reaction on the occurrence of wounds caused by mechanical damage, will make it impossible to weaken the tree and will protect him from infection with various infections. To mechanical damage that can hurt an apple tree include:

• pruning;
• Graft;
• sunburn;
• Frost punches;
• Influence of strong winds;

• Actions of bark pests;
• Damage by small rodents and birds;
• Fruit overload;
• Excess / lack of moisture;
• Too much/lack of nutrients.

Important! Before you restore the bark on an apple tree, you need to recognize the nature of the wounds.

Mechanical damage differs in the type of bark deformation:

Restoration of the bark on the apple tree

To restore the lost areas of the cortex, one should clean off all dead tissue. Special attention should be given to cleaning the deep cavities formed by insects. In the depths of the hollows, a large amount of the remains of the vital activity of pests accumulates. open area disinfected any copper-containing preparation, most often a 1% solution of copper sulfate is used.

Damage to the bark needs to be whitened.

Apply to the entire damaged surface. whitewash or putty applied. The composition of clay and mullein, which are mixed in equal parts, will be effective. You can use only clay, which must first be soaked and kneaded properly.

IMPORTANT! On young trees, it is better to replace garden whitewash with clay. Lime, which is part of garden whitewash, slows down the development of young apple trees.

If mechanical damage is repaired in time, then negative consequences can be avoided.

Watch the video on how to heal a wound on an apple tree:

infectious

Another thing is diseases of the bark of an apple tree of an infectious nature. It is necessary to fight them, based on knowledge about the disease that struck the apple tree. The main diseases of the bark of the apple tree are caused by fungal or bacterial infection.

Black cancer

One of the most dangerous fungal diseases- black cancer of the apple tree. The infection tends to quickly spread to other trees, so with it very hard to fight. In one or two seasons, you can lose the entire orchard.

Black cancer.

signs

In the initial stage, black cancer appears on the cortex in the form small cracks, surrounded by small dots. In development - expansion of wounds in diameter, deepening to a layer of wood.

At first, the wounds are purple or brownish hue, then blacken. The branches appear to be burned. Leaves and flower buds turn black at the edges, dry out, curl. The critical stage at which it is almost impossible to save an apple tree is the formation of black rings around the entire trunk and skeletal branches.

Attention! If you do not respond to the onset of symptoms in time, the tree gradually dries out and dies within 2 to 4 years, infecting other apple trees along the way.

You can also watch a video about the treatment of black cancer:

Cytosporosis

Cytosporosis is caused fungal infection. The infection gets through small wounds in the cortex.

Spreads quickly. It is characterized by an aggressive effect on wood, leads to complete drying of the branches in just one season.

Cytosporosis.

signs

Areas of the cortex infected with cytosporosis begin to dry, and crack at the junctions with healthy tissue. affected place covered with a series of small tubercles. The fungus actively develops in width and depth, reaching the cambium and wood. Leaves, flowers and ovaries dry up. curing gum bright crimson or red-brown color speaks of a neglected form of tree damage.

With a severe injury there are no branches of treatment for them, only deletion. If a severe lesion touches the trunk or the main fork of the skeletal branches, the tree can only be saved by the complete destruction of the diseased crown and regrafting.

Read more about that here.

European cancer

The fungus that causes European (common) cancer of the apple tree provokes the active development of bark cells. Branches dry out, break off in places of accumulation of the fungus. From European cancer apple tree can rot from the inside. The disease develops slowly.

European cancer.

signs

At the site of the lesion with European cancer appear outgrowths and influxes. Active cell division is not aimed at aging, therefore, after cold weather, the growths die off, exposing the cambium and wood. This is how hollows and cavities are formed on the trunk and branches. If the influx survived the winter, it turns into a thickening that contains a fungus colony.

bacterial cancer

This type of cancer appears on apple trees as a result of infection with bacteria that develop in the soil under the crowns of trees. This apple bark disease difficult to treat. It is capable, starting on one branch, to completely destroy the tree, violating its life support system.

bacterial cancer.

signs

Bacterial cancer can be seen in early spring, when the buds begin to die on the apple tree, capturing the adjacent bark:

• The leaves turn black, the flowers quickly wither, while they practically do not fall from the tree;
• Young shoots turn brown, then dry up;
• On the bark, the disease manifests itself in the form of spots, the color of which can vary from light to dark. The spots swell, forming blisters. Inside them, the structure of the tree is soft, when opened, you can smell the smell of decay;
• The growths are covered with a crust, which cracks after about a year, and the site of the lesion turns into an ulcer.

Treatment Methods

The methods of how to cure the bark of an apple tree for diseases of a fungal and bacterial nature are similar.

• Medium to large wounds clean up- cut off all the affected flesh, capturing from two to five centimeters of living wood tissue.
• The cleared place follows treat with an antiseptic. It can be a solution of 1-3% copper sulfate, a solution of 3-5% iron sulfate. If there are no special preparations to cover up wounds on an apple tree, brilliant green or fresh sorrel leaves will do.

The diseased bark must be removed.

Immediately after disinfection, we treat the bark of the apple tree - isolated from moisture and air. For this experienced gardeners different compositions are used:

• As a protective layer, the wound can be covered with garden pitch, drying oil or oil paint;
• Clay and ordinary garden soil are successfully used as a putty, which are moistened with a solution of antifungal drugs and applied to the wound;
• The known composition of the putty is a mixture of clay and mullein in equal proportions;
• Putties based on nigrol are recognized as effective, to which rosin, ash and wax are added in equal proportions;
• A good effect is the use of microbiological fungicides, produced in the form of a paste, for example, Fitosporin, which serves as a wound protection and at the same time prevents the development of a fungal infection;
• Experienced gardeners are able to restore the affected areas of the bark by applying live patches from the bark of a tree of the same species to them.

Advice! All diseased remains: leaves, fruits, branches, removed diseased wood should be burned.

After treatment of the lesions, it is necessary destroy fungus spores in the crown, soil and adjacent territory. For this, fungicides are sprayed, such as Bordeaux mixture, Hom, Horus, etc.

Black cancer, found at an early stage, while the lesions of the cortex are small, can be cured by washing the cortex potassium permanganate. Cleaning of wounds with this method is not necessary.

If the disease has moved to the next stage and the bark turns black on the apple trees - what to do, the gardener will have to decide for himself. Apple trees over 2.5 meters and older than 5 years better not to treat uproot. Younger trees, if the cancer has not ringed the trunk, have a chance to escape.

Cytosporosis of the apple tree: bark treatment will be successful if access to wood is completely blocked by mushrooms. The result directly depends on the stage of development of the disease. Lesions diameter up to 15 cm can be cured. If the wound is larger, it is better to remove the branches.

To prevent re-infection of the apple tree and the spread of the pathogen of cytosporosis, it is recommended to triple spraying orchard powdered preparations, for example, Hom, in the spring before the start of the growing season, before and after the flowering of the apple tree.

Be sure to spray the garden against diseases.

In the treatment of bacterial infection are actively used antibiotics such as streptomycin and tetracycline. A wound on an apple tree is washed with 2-4% solutions, crowns are sprayed and stem injections are carried out.

Conclusion

So that the garden is healthy and brings only positive emotions, we must try to avoid infectious diseases. It's not that hard.

Every gardener should:

Subject to these rules, the possibility of an orchard to get infected will be minimized, healthy apple trees will delight the owner with their growth and fruiting. And questions about the blackening of the bark of apple trees and their treatment will no longer bother you.

Pests and diseases of apple trees lead to weakening of trees. This is fraught not only with a partial loss of the crop, but also with the spread of infection to other trees, which can lead to the death of the entire garden. To prevent the occurrence of diseases and fight them, you need to know everything about diseases, their treatment and prevention.

Powdery mildew, or apple tree ash (lat. Erysiphales)

The cause of powdery mildew disease of the plant is infection with the fungus Erysiphales, which spreads to the foliage, branches, bark and buds of the tree. The disease has the appearance of a white cloudy coating, from which it received the name - Powdery mildew.

Signs of infection

• gradually the plaque acquires a brown color with the further appearance of black dots;
• leaves begin to curl and dry;
• young branches stop growing;
• the apple tree gives a poor harvest.

It is transmitted from tree to tree by wind or water spray in spring and autumn. Fruit trees suffer from powdery mildew, ornamental plants and agricultural crops.

How and how to treat powdery mildew

Prevention and treatment consists in spraying branches and leaves with colloidal sulfur (80 g of sulfur is diluted in 10 liters of water).

Processing is carried out three times:

• before the appearance of the leaves;
• after flowering;
• 2 weeks after the second treatment.

You can spray with chemicals ("Skor", "Topaz") ​​4 times per season. Processing is added in July, during the period of fruit development.

Black cancer of apple trees, or Antonov's fire (lat. Sphaeropsis malorum)

The disease is caused by the fungus Sphaeropsis malorum Peck and affects fruits, trunk, skeletal and thick branches, apples and bark. The affected trunk and branches resemble charred ones, as if burnt by fire. Most often, black cancer is observed in apple trees weakened by the main disease.

The risk of cancer increases if the tree is not given timely care and it received burns or frost cracks. Often, cancer is fixed in gardens growing on loamy, moisture-rich soil and in areas with large temperature differences, especially in autumn. It affects apple, pear and other stone fruits.

How to recognize black cancer

The disease is diagnosed in the summer. An air temperature of 22-28 degrees Celsius is ideal for the spread of fungal spores.

• If a disease is suspected, then the bark of the tree is carefully examined through a magnifying glass. If small ulcers with black dots on the edge are found, the diagnosis is confirmed. The dots are pycnidia where fungal spores mature.

Pycnida is the fruiting body of a pathogenic fungus that produces spores called conidia.

Cytosporosis of apple trees, or infectious drying (lat. Cytospora)

Cytospora infestation of the bark manifests itself in the form of brown cankers that expose the bark down to the trunk and grow along the affected part of the tree. The bark dries up and falls off.

Any stone and pome trees can get sick with cytosporosis in the spring and summer. The cause of the occurrence is poor soil or damage to the bark through which the fungus enters.

How and how to treat cytosporosis

• Protective measures should begin in the spring, before bud break. For fungicide treatment chemical preparation HOM or copper oxychloride, it is recommended to choose a dry, calm day;
• Before flowering, a secondary treatment is carried out with a solution of copper sulphate (50 g of vitriol is diluted in 10 liters of water).
• After flowering, the tree is sprayed with HOM again. The same treatment is used when identifying signs of the disease.

Disease prevention measures

• Mandatory application to fresh wounds of drying oil or garden pitch;
• Protect trees from burns by whitewashing;
• Before cold weather, watering with potash or phosphorus-containing fertilizers.

Bacterial burn or bacteriosis (lat. Erwinia amylovora)

A disease caused by the gram-negative bacterium Erwinia amylovora. It is brought in with infected cuttings acquired in unverified places. Bacteriosis affects trees in early spring, mainly pear. Later it is transmitted to apple trees and other pome trees growing in the neighborhood, along with splashing water during rain or from watering hoses.

Signs of bacterial infection

• Bacteriosis spreads from top to bottom with dark watery spots on the bark, foliage and fruits.
• Leaves and apples resemble charred ones, darken, but do not fall off, but stay on the branches. Infected apples are not suitable for food.

Prevention and treatment measures

• Seedlings should be bought in trusted places, visually inspecting for the presence of diseases;
• For disinfection, water the soil with a solution of copper sulfate (60 g per 10 liters of water);
• Spray an already diseased tree with 5% Bordeaux liquid or finished products with sulfur content (Thiovit Jet, VDG, Cumulus DF);
• To prevent the spread of the disease, cut diseased branches 20 cm below the infected area, or completely remove them. The wound is covered with garden pitch;
• Tools after working with a diseased tree are disinfected with alcohol without fail.

Apple scab, or phytopathology (lat. Venturia inaequalis)

A disease of apple and pear trees caused by the fungus Venturia inaequalis, the spores of which are carried by water. Scab development is stimulated by high humidity and calm weather, most often infection is recorded in May. The absence of wind contributes to the stagnation of air in the crown and spores begin to germinate.

Signs of scab disease

• Dark brown spots, small in size and rough to the touch, appear on the fruits.
• Apples stop pouring, crack, and through the cracks the disease enters the fruit.
• The leaves are covered with yellow-brown spots, shrink and fall off.

How to protect an apple tree from scab

Preventive measures take in the spring, before the foliage appears.

• Before leafing out, old branches are cut from the tree for better ventilation.
• The crown is sprayed with a solution of urea (half a kilo of urea is diluted in 10 liters of water).
• Preparations with copper oxychloride (Abiga Peak, Bronex, Kurzat, Ordan) carry out secondary processing before fruiting.
• After harvesting, spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture is carried out.

If the infection has already occurred, then you can process the crown mineral fertilizers. In this case, 10% ammonium nitrate, 10% ammonium sulfate, 15% potassium salt or potassium nitrate are used.

Prevention from infection after fruiting

• After the end of fruiting, all dry branches and dried fruits are cut off from the tree.
• If necessary, they clean the trunk to a healthy base from the old bark, whiten the wound site.
• All foliage under the trees is collected and burned.

These preventive measures help prevent the spread of fungal spores in the future.

Diseases of apple trees: Milky shine (eng. Silver leaf)

A disease caused by the fungus Chondrostereum purpureum.

Signs of the disease

• On the surface of the branches, a pearly grayish milky sheen appears, which quickly spreads from one branch to another.
• Branches cease to bear fruit, and the fruits begin to crumble.
• If the infection affects the skeleton of the tree, then the apple tree will die.

How to protect trees from milky shine

A milky sheen occurs due to improper watering, lack of vitamins, or freezing of the tree in winter.

• If a fungus is found, cut off diseased branches, capturing the lower 5 cm, and burn.
• Treat the wound with 1% copper sulfate and cover with garden pitch.
• If the apple tree is completely covered with a fungus, then it is better to dig it up and burn it.

How to protect an apple tree from a milky sheen

• increase the cold resistance of trees by whitewashing in the fall;
• spray with 3-5% copper sulphate before whitewashing;
• avoid mechanical damage to the bark during grafting and pruning;
• top dressing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Fruit rot - moniliosis (lat. Monilia)

This disease is caused by the fungus Monilia on stone fruit trees.

Signs of disease of apple trees

• Growing fruits are covered with dark brown spots of rot, which grow rapidly. From above, the spots are covered with white patches.
• The stem of the apples dries up and they fall to the ground.

The pulp of fruits affected by moniliosis becomes unsuitable for food.

The spread of fungal spores contributes to

• high humidity;
• high air temperature;
• processing with dirty tools;
• windy weather, due to which spores of the fungus are carried;
• the presence of the underlying disease (often rot accompanies the scab, further affecting the apple tree).

Measures for the prevention and treatment of moniliosis

• Sick apples are harvested (fallen ones are collected and removed from the tree), branches are cut and burned away from healthy trees;
• Timely spraying with fungicides: Horus, VDG.

Ruddy and fragrant apples are an excellent delicacy, and also very healthy. And pectin in them, and iron, and a host of other minerals with vitamins.

And in order to taste pure fruits, where there are guaranteed no nitrates, it is best to grow an apple orchard yourself. By the way, on our planet the area of ​​such gardens is only slightly less than that of vineyards and olive groves. They occupy the third place - even orange plantations are ahead.

Acquaintance

This tree, growing up to 15-20 meters, has the Latin name "Malus" and belongs to the rosaceae. Its flowers appear along with the first leaves in April-May and are pale pink or White color. The oval-shaped leaves with a green fringe along the edges at a young age are slightly fluffy from the inside, later becoming smooth. Twigs in youth are brownish-olive, then - gray with a brown tint. The bark is also grayish, it tends to crack. The trunk has a girth of about 40 centimeters.

And now about the most delicious - apples. They appear 8-12 years after planting and can be either round or laterally flattened, varying in weight. There are fruits reaching up to a kilogram, but there are also small varieties, the size of a nut or cherry. Diverse and color shades ripe apples, which include all the yellow-green and red-orange gamut. Only cold colors of fruits are not found - blue, for example. Or purple.

Apple trees grow everywhere, preferring a temperate climate. They can be seen high in the mountains (up to a thousand meters) and on the edge of the forest in middle lane, in Central Asia, in the Crimea, in Europe (where apple trees are found in the wild). AT natural conditions trees grow from seeds, and cultivars are propagated by seedlings living in special nurseries. The age of trees can reach 100-150 years, but active fruiting usually lasts no more than 60-70 years.

By the way, if there is a desire, then you can get strong seedlings from apple seeds yourself. To do this, we use the method of monks growing apple orchards near the Valaam Monastery. You need to take ripe grains, be sure to rinse thoroughly and plant in the ground. This is done at the end of summer, and well-hardened seedlings will germinate in spring. We immediately remove the wilds - they are noticeable by their too bright green color and thorns on the stems.

Apple trees are unpretentious and grow on almost any soil. However, most of all they love well-manured land with enough potassium, as well as the sun in good doses. Slight frosts and lack of water are not able to harm. But what is detrimental to the apple tree is the close presence of groundwater. At the same time, the roots rot, and the tree cannot be saved in any way. If you have such a situation on the site, and you want apples, then choose dwarf varieties with small roots.

In order for the apple tree to please you with its wonderful fruits every year (by the way, they can be harvested from an adult tree up to 300 kilograms per season), you need to take care of it. Water when dry, protect against rodents, feed. And protect from diseases and all sorts of harmful caterpillars with worm bugs. More on this later.

Do you want to get fruits earlier - five or six years after planting seedlings? There is one way, which consists in the regular feeding of young animals with weak nitrogen fertilizers (certainly liquid). A tablespoon of ammonium nitrate goes to a bucket of water. In June, trees are fed weekly, and in July - twice a month. So until they begin to bear fruit.

Let us dwell on the three diseases of this plant, which are most common. All of them are caused by different types of fungi.

Scab on an apple tree - how to fight?

It is this infection that most often attacks apple trees. It is not fatal, but can affect yields. Yes, and affected apples are not stored at all and do not have a presentation. The disease begins with spots on the underside of the leaves. They are greenish brown. And then brown spots and appear on the fruits, turning over time into a hard crust.

The fungus overwinters in autumn fallen leaves. If the spring is rainy, then it is activated. And with a cool and humid summer, it rejoices at all. He also loves a dense crown. So we remove extra branches, fallen apples, burn autumn leaves. In autumn, we sprinkle copper sulphate on the crown, and in spring (before bud break) - Bordeaux liquid. Another good remedy for autumn processing is a solution of saltpeter with urea.

Most right ways getting rid of scab on video:

powdery mildew

If a grayish coating appears on leaves, twigs, flowers, then it's time to sound the alarm. The spores of the fungus penetrate the tissues of the plant, preventing it from developing. Apples wrinkle and dry up before ripening. The ovaries may not appear at all.

This fungus also loves wet spring and warm summers. But when the frost is minus 27, he dies. It is necessary to remove all diseased shoots and burn. For treatment, colloidal liquid sulfur is taken. Buds are sprayed with a two percent liquid, ovaries - one percent. The third time we process the apple tree in a couple of weeks, also with two percent sulfur. Or use copper (iron) vitriol, Bordeaux liquid is also good.

Apple bark disease - common cancer (European)

Chronic disease occurs after damage to the bark and branches caused by cold, pruning or rodent teeth. Infection is possible in weather from 2 to 30 degrees Celsius. A diseased tree does not develop and cannot fully feed. Its bark is cracking, branches and trunk are overgrown with growths. Infected parts die and wither.

We treat the apple tree like this: carefully cut out all the sore spots, and treat fresh sections with an antiseptic composition (you can use copper sulphate). Top with garden pitch. No pitch - take oil paint. And in winter, so that the hares do not eat the trunk, we wrap it with corn or sorghum tops - it helps well.

Pests of apple trees and methods of dealing with them: codling moth, flower beetle, sawfly

• flower beetle

This is a dark brown bug with a long proboscis nose. Wintering in the bark and fallen leaves, it lays larvae inside the tender buds and buds of the apple tree, eating them from the inside along the way. Signs: juice dripping from the kidneys, buds with leaves that have not opened.

To deal with the villain, we'll pull up a sheet and shake off the bugs when the buds swell. And then we drown them in water. You need to do this four times, until the thermometer shows plus 10. Then, when the buds begin to open, take a weak (0.2%) solution of chlorophos - and on the crown.

• codling moth

A gray inconspicuous striped butterfly emerges from the cocoon in June, immediately laying eggs on the underside of the leaves, after 10 days pink caterpillars appear from them. They are our apples and spoil, climbing inside. And then (about a month later) they go to winter in a cocoon. Fallen under the bark or under the leaves.

We fight like this: before the buds swell, we clean the tree from the dead bark, which must be burned. And when the tree fades, we prepare a solution (water 10 liters plus lime 40 grams plus arsenic-acid calcium 30 grams). We spray twice - how the apple tree will bloom and how the extra ovaries will fall off.

Not bad help from the codling moth unbelted in the summer special trapping belts. They can be used from July. A good bait for caterpillars is dried fruit compote or kvass. You can also pour whey from milk.

• Sawfly

This pest, resembling a small bee, cracks down on the middle of the ovaries. Its wintering takes place in the soil, and it flies out from there about five days before the blooming of apple flowers. Females lay eggs in buds and flowers - each with 80 pieces. Twenty-legged larvae crawl into the fruit, eating the seeds. Because of this, the ovaries fall and the crop is lost.

We carry out prevention

To prevent trouble, measures are taken in advance. So, when buying seedlings, they turn only to those nurseries whose goods are reliable and tested (otherwise you can buy an infected tree). When the apple trees take root, you need to take care of them regularly: loosen the ground near the trunks, weed weeds, cut off dried branches, remove leaves with apples that have fallen (and immediately). And thin out the crown regularly.

In addition, there are special ready-made products that save you from pests and fungal diseases. There are many varieties of them - it is important to have time to do the processing on time. It is carried out in two steps:

• Initially, trees are sprayed before they bloom. The level is a green cone. At the same time, pests crawling out of the ground and from under the bark die, and the development of diseases is stopped.
• The second time they do this is when the apple trees have faded, and the fruit ovaries are visible on the branches. At the same time, insects are again destroyed (this time we protect the ovaries) and fungal spores that can scatter.

Grafting an apple tree in spring or summer into a split is the second youth of a tree

To diversify varieties, ennoble the wilds and breathe new strength into old trees, they are grafted. To do this, you need a cutting from a healthy apple tree: a branch about 30-35 centimeters long, growing upwards. It is cut at an acute angle, doing it in the fall or early winter (in extreme cases, very early in the spring, before the juice appears in the kidneys). They store the cutting-graft where it is cold and damp.

It is necessary to graft when the juices in the tree are most active - in spring or summer. There are dozens of methods for this. The easiest way is to graft behind the bark (into a cut made in depth) or into a split (splitting a prepared branch cut). They try to press the cutting tightly against the rootstock, and then they coat everything with garden pitch and wrap it with a tape of soft material.

How to properly vaccinate in a split in the spring, look at the video:

If rodents have severely gnawed your apple tree, grafting with a “bridge” can save it. Why take several cuttings aged 1 year. They need to be inserted below and above the place where there is damage. Then everything is smeared and fixed. In a month, the first leaves should appear.

So, apple trees are not capricious trees and do not require anything special. If you treat them carefully and protect them from misfortunes, then for decades they will gratefully delight with apples - sweet and delicious. And enough for jam, and for marshmallow, and eat fresh.

Appearance spots on apple leaves associated with the attack of the tree by pests or damage as a result of the manifestation of diseases.

most dangerous disease considered fruit tree is scab. First signs of scab disease you can see the surface of the sheet in the form of gray spots with a greenish coating. As the disease progresses, the spots increase in size and turn black. After this, the leaf dries out, then the spores of the fungus spread along the shoots of the tree, forming cracks. This disease also affects the fruits - they become unusable.

Scab on apple leaves

Apple Scab Control consists in preventive actions, including spraying the garden with a solution blue vitriol or solution nutrofena. Such treatments are carried out before bud break. If this moment is missed, then spraying should be carried out Bordeaux mixture 1%.

After the flowering of the apple tree, a second treatment against scab is carried out using the following preparations: Kaptan, Cineba, Kuprozan.

The third treatment against scab is carried out after two or three weeks, using copper oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture. These substances can cause plant burns, so the solution is checked on separate branches.

Autumn scab prevention measures include collecting and destroying leaves, loosening trunk zone tree.

rust on leaves

Appearance rusty spots on the surface of an apple leaf associated with diseases such as rust. This disease manifests itself in the middle of summer on an apple leaf in the form of outgrowths that turn into a star shape and grow. Rust leads to rapid leaf fall, so the plant is poorly prepared for wintering. The cause of this disease may be juniper, which grows in the garden next to the apple tree.

The fight against rust on the leaves of an apple tree. Spray the apple tree with a Bordeaux mixture or sulfur-containing solutions at the same time as in the fight against scab .

Gall aphid on an apple tree

gall aphid

Red spots on apple leaves can appear as a result of an attack gall aphid . This pest is destroyed with a solution nitrofen. Gall aphids can overwinter in the bark of a tree, so old pieces of bark must be removed and the strain whitewashed.

1. Normal sheet.
2. With a lack of nitrogen.
3. With a lack of potassium.
4. With a lack of magnesium.

Lack (deficiency) of nutrients

Another reason for the appearance spots on apple leaves is lack of nutrients, for example, potassium and trace elements (zinc, manganese, magnesium). A deficiency of nutrients can be seen by the appearance of light green, gray or red spots in the central part of the leaf. Both a deficiency and an excess of nutrients are harmful, that is, their balance in the soil is required.

The considered causes of the appearance of spots can be eliminated by feeding the apple tree with complex fertilizer.

Yes, at nitrogen deficiency in soil , even slightly, the growth of plants slows down, they have a pale green color. With a large nitrogen deficiency, the leaves turn yellow, not reaching normal sizes, their petioles depart from the shoot at an acute angle. Yellowing spreads from the bottom up the plant, it starts from the top of the leaf. The shoots acquire a reddish color, the fruits do not reach normal size, ripen early and fall off.

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excess nitrogen sharply increases the growth of vegetative organs to the detriment of reproductive organs; vegetables do not have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather.

With a lack of phosphorus plants acquire a dark green, even bluish color, with red-purple hues, crimson or bronze, their growth noticeably slows down. The leaves are crushed, arranged at a sharper angle, their edges twist down, old leaves become spotty, blacken when dried and fall prematurely. Flowering and ripening is delayed.

With a lack of potassium the edges of the leaves turn brown and dry. This is usually noted in the middle of summer on the leaves of the middle part of the shoots, then spreading up and down. With severe potassium starvation, the entire leaf turns yellow. Young leaves do not reach normal size, the fruits become smaller. Individual branches dry out.

Plants react painfully tomicronutrient deficiencies. As a rule, on well-cultivated and systematically fertilized soils with manure, their introduction is not required, they play a positive role in plant nutrition only when there is enough nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the soil. If there is a deficiency of trace elements, plants give low and Bad quality crops, fall ill, showing characteristic symptoms.

With a lack of magnesium the leaf tissue between the veins turns yellow, while the veins themselves remain green. Later, brown necrotic spots appear. Diseased leaves fall off, the fruits are small, slightly colored, tasteless. Magnesium starvation manifests itself first on lower leaves, then to younger ones.

Boron deficiency causes in plants the death of the growing point of the stem and root, sometimes the formation of a rosette of small thickened leaves, bushiness of shoots, dry tops. The tissue of the fruit becomes corky, the pulp has a bitter taste, there are spots of a bronze hue on the fruits, they dry out and remain hanging on the plant.

manganese deficiency causes yellowing first of the edges of the leaves, then of the entire leaf, the veins remain green. The lesion covers most often old leaves, but young ones also suffer. Plant shoots may die.

With zinc starvation small, narrow, hard leaves are formed, collected at the top of the shoot in rosettes. There are small chlorotic spots on the leaves, the fruits are small, ugly.

lack of calcium slows down the growth of the roots, they become short, resemble stumps and die off, starting from the tips. Above the dead area, a mass of branched roots is formed. The growth of the aerial part slows down, the edges of the leaves twist down.

Copper deficiency causes deformation of the leaves on the tops of the shoots, they turn brown from the edges, fall off, cracks and swellings form on the bark, the tops of the shoots dry out.

iron deficiency causes premature yellowing of leaves, death of shoots, dry top.

All of the above signs of disease quickly pass if you correctly recognize what the plant needs and add the necessary nutrients to the soil. Thus, you will constantly maintain soil fertility and get a high and high-quality crop.

Our articles from the section "Diseases and pests of the garden"