Laying shingles with your own hands. Various types of soft roofs. Calculator for calculating the distributed load on the rafter legs

Bituminous shingles (also called flexible shingles) have recently become more and more popular. This is due to its high technical and operational qualities, bitumen shingles are quite lightweight, durable, due to their flexibility, they can easily be used on the roof of any configuration. Its advantages also include the fact that the minimum service life is at least 30-35 years, and individual manufacturers guarantee up to half a century of operation bituminous shingles.

From the point of view of operation, it is in no way inferior to metal tiles, due to its "softness" it has good soundproof characteristics. The ease of installation also speaks in favor of the choice of bituminous tiles; you can lay the bituminous tiles with your own hands. Due to the variety of colors, you can choose suitable option for any roof.

What does bitumen shingles consist of?

As a rule, the basis shingles there is a strong fiberglass, on both sides of it there are layers of improved bitumen. On the front surface of the bituminous shingles, a layer of mineral powder is arranged (it plays rather an aesthetic role), and microscopic particles of mineral material also reduce noise from rain.

On the underside of the sheets of shingles there is a self-adhesive layer and a protective film, which is removed immediately before laying the sheet.

What tools and materials will be needed for installing bituminous tiles

In order to lay shingles with your own hands you will need:

sealant;
special bitumen-based mastic;
lining carpet;

Instead of a special lining waterproofing carpet, you can also use ordinary roofing material.

the tile itself in the required quantity;
wide head galvanized roofing nails;
ventilation elements (usually purchased with tiles);
ridge-eaves tile;

shaped elements for strengthening the eaves and end part of the roof;

pass-through elements;
a hammer;
scissors for metal;
a small trowel for applying bituminous mastic;
tile knife

When calculating the required number of tiles, you need to remember that the consumption indicated on the pack corresponds to the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slope at an angle of 45 °.

Bituminous tile laying technology

The main disadvantage of shingles is the increased requirement for the flatness of the base. Due to the fact that the bituminous tile material is quite soft and relatively thin, even a small unevenness will stand out against the background of the roof, and leakage is also possible in this place. Therefore, it is recommended to use only dried edged boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB for installing a base for shingles.

Builders most often give preference to oriented strand boards.

After the installation of a flat base, you can proceed directly to the installation of bituminous tiles.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to lay the underlay carpet. Depending on the steepness of the slope, it is installed either on the entire roof, or only in the most important places from the point of view of waterproofness - on skates, overhangs and valleys. If the slope of the roof slope exceeds 18 °, then you can do without a continuous underlay.

Laying shingles directly on concrete is prohibited.

It is desirable that the laying of the waterproofing carpet goes in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom of the slope, overlapping the strips waterproofing material - 10 - 15 cm. It can be installed in the longitudinal direction, but from the point of view of waterproofing, this option is worse. Particular attention should be paid to the valley carpet, it is advisable to make it from a single piece of waterproofing material, without joints.

The eaves and end parts of the roof should be reinforced with special shaped elements (metal strips). They must be overlapped with an overlap of up to 5 cm. The planks are attached to the base with nails, the distance between them is up to 12 cm.

Even before installing the shingles, you need to think about fixing the gutter. Sometimes a wooden plank is nailed for this, to which the gutter is attached.

After strengthening the cornice and the frontal part of the roof, they begin to install the tiles. It is better to pre-mix sheets from several packs. The fact is that even the tiles of the same batch may differ in color, mixing the sheets will make this difference in shades invisible.

Do-it-yourself installation of bituminous tiles begins with the fact that the cornice-ridge tiles are laid on the cornice overhang. It can be purchased separately or you can use ordinary flexible shingles for this, after cutting off the petals from it.

Then they start laying the main part of the tiles. Typically, the hollows are fully tiled prior to laying the main body. You can do this in parallel with laying the tiles on the slopes, but in this case, in the hollow, the tiles should be 2-3 rows ahead of the tiles on the slope. Each subsequent sheet in the hollow is glued to the previous one (the overlap is 10 cm).

Along the edge of the roof, the tiles are carefully coated with mastic (a strip 10 cm wide) and glued to the base. This protects the roof from slanting rain. It is recommended to start installing the shingles from the middle or bottom corner of the roof slope. Starting from 3-4 rows, you need to pay attention to the preservation of the geometric pattern; to control the correct laying, the roof is preliminarily marked or a thread mooring is used.

For the installation of pipes, it is recommended to use special passages, they can be purchased together with the tiles. In this case, the passage element is nailed to the roof with galvanized nails, the area around it is coated with mastic, a corresponding cut is made in the tile and it is glued around the pipe.

Separately, it is worth considering the abutment of the tiles to brick pipes or vertical walls. In this case, a wooden triangular strip is installed between the wall and the base, to which the flexible tiles are attached). To provide waterproofing from above to brick wall (pipe) waterproofing is attached roll material with a metal bar (the space between the bar and brick wall filled with sealant).

Typically, the overlap should be at least 30 cm, but in cold climates at least 70 cm.

The technology of laying bituminous tiles also provides for the device of a ridge aerator. First, the skate must be cut, the aerator itself must be installed on the resulting device, and bitumen shingles must be glued on top of it.

Everyone knows that laying roofing material will have a positive end result only if you strictly follow the installation instructions and follow the recommendations of specialists. This applies to all roofing materials and shingles as well. And if you decide to use this particular material to cover the roof of your own house, then you will have to make sure that the installation instructions become a talmut for you during the work.

Stages of roofing with bituminous tiles

Let's make a reservation right away that bituminous shingles can be used on roofs, the slope angle of which will be at least 11.5 °. This is approximately a 1: 5 ratio.

Stage number one - preparatory

Preparatory in the sense that it is necessary to prepare the roofing system for the bituminous shingles, or rather, the roof lathing. So, the lathing for this roofing material should only be solid, therefore, either moisture-resistant plywood will act as elements here, or oSB boards, or edged grooved boards. As for the boards, they must be very dry, the humidity should not exceed 20%.

It is very important to fix the crate tightly, it must be very strong and fairly even. Small drop plane shingles can cover themselves. There are several serious issues in the construction of the crate.

The joints of two adjacent elements must be located only on the supporting elements of the roof structure. That is, on the rafters.
If boards are used as a crate, then one board should overlap two spans in length, that is, it should lie on three rafter legs.
Again with regard to the boards. The rafter system is subject to changes in temperature and humidity, so it is necessary to leave a small gap (2-3 mm) between the boards. This is compensation for board resizing.
Such a roof covered with bituminous tiles must be equipped with a ventilation system. Therefore, even at the stage of roof construction, it is necessary to leave gaps at the cornice and at the ridge.

Stage two - laying the backing layer

What is an underlay carpet? This is a rolled bitumen-polymer material, which is covered with sand on top, and a plastic film is attached to it from below. Laying is done with a sand layer up.

It is necessary to pay attention again to the slope angle of the roof slopes. If it is not less than 11.5 °, then it makes no sense to lay the underlay over the entire roof area. The main thing is to close the refractions of the structure and the extreme planes, which are most exposed to loads. These are valleys, ridge, cornice, pediments and abutment points.

Attention! At the corner of the valley, a lining roll must be laid along, and the overlap between two adjacent strips must be glued and fastened with roofing nails.

Better to apply several strips of glue. But glue cannot be applied under the entire plane of the laid roll.

All other areas are covered with strips of lining material and fastened to the crate with nails. The overlap of the elements is 10 cm.

If the covering of the backing layer is continuous, then the installation can be carried out either parallel to the cornice, or perpendicular to it. As shown in the photo below.

In this case, each laid strip must first be spread out, let it straighten a little, and then slightly pull it with your hands. On the surface of the slope, you should get a flat surface without bubbles and distortions. The strips are overlapped with an offset of 10-15 cm. Fastening every 10 cm is done with roofing nails.

Now you need to install and secure metal strips, which are mounted on the edges of the roof slope. Namely, at the eaves and ends of the roofing system. These strips are often called cable strips by experts. All metal strips are laid on top of the backing layer with a slight offset along the laying direction. The offset is 20 mm. The strips are fastened with either roofing nails or self-tapping screws. The attachment line is a zigzag, the installation places are every 10 cm, as shown in the video. The pediments have a special shape with a rim, which serves as a stiffener and drain rain and melt water.

Attention! If the cornice of your house has a curved shape, then the cornice metal strips are installed in small pieces (segments), forming a curved line. The length of the element must be determined by the roofer himself, who will be engaged in covering the roof with bituminous tiles.

And another very important point... After the entire roof plane has been covered with lining, another strip is installed at the locations of the valley. Its edge at the cornice should cover the installed metal strip, and be glued there. And fastening along the laying in this case is carried out only with nails every 10 cm (see video).

As for the ridge of the roof, here the lining material overlaps with respect to different slopes. That is, one slope at a time, the upper edge of the lining is spread, not reaching the edge of the roof by 5 cm.In the second slope, the roll passes over the ridge to the first slope to a depth of 15 cm.It turns out that the overlap creates a continuous layer that completely covers the ridge. This can be clearly seen in the photo below.

Stage three - installation of shingles

Everything preparatory stages passed, you can go directly to covering the roof with bituminous tiles. The installation instructions say that you need to start laying from the bottom, moving up, like, in principle, all roofing materials. But bituminous shingles have one point regarding the beginning of this construction operation. So the instruction says that the elements of the roofing are laid end-to-end on the cornice, and overlap over the rest of the area.

In this case, the eaves tiles must be laid a little deep into the slope by about 2-3 cm. Installation is necessarily accompanied by aligning the edges of the material strictly along the eaves. It will not be difficult to do this with an open cornice line. The elements are fastened with nails closer to the cut of the roofing material (see video). Do not forget to remove the protective plastic film from the back side before installing the strips of bituminous tiles. The same will apply to the elements that will be installed in the main areas.

It is necessary to start the installation and fastening of sheets (shingles) of bituminous tiles from the middle of the slope, placing them further to the edges of the roofing structure. The first row is laid so that it completely covers the eaves row. In this case, the petals of the upper row should cover the perforation of the cornice row. The element must be fastened with four nails, positioning 4-5 cm from above the perforation. If the roof slope angle exceeds 45 °, it is recommended to add two more nails to one shingle and hammer them into the upper corners of the roofing element.

The edges of the shingles that will cover the gable planks must be cut exactly to size. And these edges must be glued. The glue is applied in several stripes 1-2 mm thick. The length of one glue strip is not less than 5 cm. After that, the glue is smeared with a brush on the surface of the lining material, the edge of the shingle is pressed by hand with little effort. The element must be fastened with a roofing nail.

We return to the valley. On the laid lining material from the corner of the valley, two parallel lines are drawn on both sides at a distance of 15 cm on each side. This can be done with a marker using a ruler or colored thread. It's just that you need to make marks at the lower and upper edges of the valley, connect them with a thread (pull it well, which will require two people), lift and release, a clear line will be drawn on the surface of the valley material.

Cut the edges of the material along the lines. It is better to do this with a construction knife, after placing a small board under the material and the knife blade. Now the shingle shingles are laid in place, the intersection of the shingle itself and the lining strip is marked on it. The tile element is trimmed along the resulting line. Now the bitumen shingle itself must be fixed, for which you need to use glue applied to the lining along the edge of the cut to a width of five millimeters. Necessarily done additional fastening roofing nails.

The most difficult operation in this entire installation process is the laying of bituminous tiles at the abutment points (see video). For example, to stove chimney... There are several points that you need to know and strictly follow.

It is necessary to install along the entire perimeter of the pipe in the lower part of the junction wooden lath with a triangular section. Size: 50x50 mm. You can use the cornice for these purposes.
The underlay is laid over the installed batten.
After that, a row of bituminous tiles is mounted, adjacent to the vertical plane of the chimney.
Now over installed elements the valley carpet is laid. It should cover the pipe itself by 30 cm in height, and protrude 20 cm beyond the abutment perimeter in width.
On top of the laid valley carpet, a metal abutment strip is installed, which is attached with self-tapping screws to the surface of the chimney. It is imperative that silicone sealant is poured under the bar, which will ensure complete sealing of the joint.
On the side of the pipe, ordinary bituminous shingles are laid over the valley carpet, or can be laid under it.

And the last element of the roof is the ridge, which is also covered with bituminous tiles (see video). To do this, a strip is cut off from the valley carpet, the width of which should be such as to cover the ridge and slopes to a height of 50 mm or more. Fastening is done with nails. After that, on the skate itself, shingles are placed under this element, which are called ridge. In principle, for this you can use cornice elements, which are simply cut to the required size. It is necessary to fasten the ridge shingles with nails, which will be closed with adjacent shingles, because the laying is overlapped (5 cm).

Attention! If shingles are covered with hip roof, then the laying of the ridge panels begins from the lower edge of the rib near the eaves. In gable roofs, installation starts from the middle of the ridge.

The installation of any roof covering must be carried out in accordance with the rules. Today, the roof is covered not only with slate and galvanized metal sheet, but also with others. modern materials... Bituminous shingles are beautiful and very high quality material. It is one of the five most popular roofing coatings in Russia. Let's talk about it in more detail, and also talk about the features of installing bituminous tiles. Additionally, we will provide a video of the work.

Description of shingles

Any owner of a house or cottage dreams that his roof is not only reliable, but also beautiful and inexpensive. Bituminous tiles in this regard are one of the best roofing coatings. The quality of the future roof is influenced by:

coverage reliability;
correct styling;
compliance with all the nuances.

Let's talk about the advantages of shingles. Otherwise, it is called soft or flexible. It consists of sheets of various colors and designs 0.33 by 1 meter.

The structure of such a sheet is both simple and reliable. Glass mat impregnated with modified bitumen is applied to the layer of adhesive material. A layer of bitumen is again applied on top of it, and then trimmed with stone granules. They give the material an aesthetically pleasing appearance and serve as protection.

Bitumen provides tiles with excellent waterproofing, flexibility and resistance to harmful effects. In general, shingles have a number of advantages:

environmental Safety;
durability;
fire safety;
high aesthetics;
resistance to mechanical stress;
the properties of thermal insulation, waterproofing and noise insulation are high;
the ability to use for any type of roof;
the compact size of the sheet allows you to use the coating economically;
rich variety of shapes and colors.

Laying shingles is quite simple. If you follow some rules, you can do this yourself. Before we come close to this issue, we will also describe the disadvantages of bituminous tiles:

cost (it is not low, so many refuse to buy at the initial stage);
for installation, it is necessary to install an OSB plate;
in the conditions of the far north, where the temperature is often kept below 40 degrees of frost, only very high-quality expensive coating is used ( minimum temperaturewhich the material can withstand - 55 degrees below zero).

There are no other disadvantages of bituminous tiles, they are reliable and durable.

Installation technology

Many are interested in the question of whether it is possible to lay bitumen shingles on their own. Below you will find detailed instructions, following it, everyone can do such work. Before you start, you need to complete a preparation process. This is very important when laying shingles.

Preparatory process

If you want shingles to last long years, it is important to follow all installation guidelines. To begin with, it should be 11.5-12 degrees. Otherwise, you should not lay flexible shingles on it. As a rule, slopes above this mark are more common. The maximum rate is defined as 90 degrees.

The whole process of preparation for laying bituminous shingles consists in the construction correct foundation... Otherwise, it is called a solid crate. For the base plate OSB-3 is used. Oriented strand board is a multi-layer sheet made of wood chips. They are glued together using various resins. The main characteristics of the material:

high strength;
resistance to high humidity (if the stove is placed in water for a day, it will not collapse and remain strong);
absorbs sound;
does not interfere with the installation of shingles (all manipulations are easy);
does not require additional processing, since it does not rot and damage by insects.

Thus, OSB boards are an excellent basis for bituminous roofing. All its positive properties, in addition to the properties of the shingles themselves, will make the roof resistant to atmospheric precipitation and the wind.

OSB boards are often used for wall cladding, flooring and other works. You can use them when installing metal tiles, however, more and more often in this case, crate is used.

To make a base for shingles you will need:

oSB boards 15 mm thick;
grooved boards;
waterproofing film;
nails;
insulation (if necessary).

We start preparing the foundation. Initially, the angle of inclination is checked. It should be flat. If there are deviations, you need to correct them at this stage. After that, a protective waterproofing film is laid. If the winters in your area are harsh, insulation will need to be laid between the rafter board under the waterproofing layer. As for these materials, it is very easy to choose them from what is offered on the market today.

The OSB board itself is a vapor barrier material, so the use of vapor barrier under the insulation is not always justified. On top of the waterproofing layer, tongue-and-groove boards are attached. They will become the basis for OSB sheets. The boards are pre-treated with an antiseptic to extend their service life. As a result, you should get a crate. Before laying it, calculate the dimensions so that the joints of the OSB fall on the grooved board.

Now we fix the OSB boards with nails. A backing carpet will be applied over them. It is mounted horizontally or vertically with a running start. You do not need to lay it out in one line so that the edges of the seams converge. Secure the carpet tightly. Stacking it in in early spring or late autumn, be sure to stretch the canvas well. For gluing the carpet, bituminous glue of the K-36 brand is used.

Important ! Leave an expansion joint of 3 mm between OSB boards. In the hot season, the slab can expand, this compensates for this property.

Detailed instructions for installing the base for flexible bituminous tiles are presented in the video below

Installation of cornice strips and additional elements

For each roof, you will need to additionally purchase and install:

cornice strips;
end strips;
carpet for the valley;
skate (to be installed later).

Laying begins with eaves for bitumen shingles. They are fastened with nails over the backing carpet. The main thing is that the nails are staggered with a step of 10 centimeters. The head of the nail should be wide.

Keep in mind that for the future gutter, brackets for attaching the gutter are pre-installed. This is also covered in the previous video.

Laying the end strips is a similar process. On top of the lining carpet, you additionally need to lay another important element bituminous shingles - carpet for the valley. The photo shows in detail how to do this. The numbers indicate:

valley axis;
lining carpet;
carpet for the valley.

The pitch for nails with a wide head is 20 centimeters. According to all of the above, it is necessary to know at the time of design that the more complex the roofing project, the more expensive the bituminous tile will be.

Installation of bituminous tiles

Before proceeding with installation, check the color range of all tile packages. Sometimes the shade may be different. The technology is quite simple, so it is important to follow the advice and adhere to safety precautions when working at height.

Small and lightweight shingles are easily delivered to the roof. Installation is started from the bottom up from the center of the eaves to the ends. The first layer is laid in this way: the lower edge is laid 3-5 centimeters above the edge. First, remove the protective layer and glue a strip of tiles. Additionally, each strip is nailed to the OSB board. It takes 4 nails for one tile. The layer is now well anchored.

Advice! After removing the protective layer, the tiles must not be dropped, otherwise the adhesive mass will stick together.

One caveat: if the slope of the roof is very sharp, then it is better to use 6 nails for reliability.

At the end edges, the shingles are coated with K-36 bitumen glue for at least 10 centimeters. Each subsequent layer is applied in such a way that a clear pattern is obtained in accordance with the selected shape.

Advice! Laying will be easy if you immediately lift everything up necessary tools... Don't forget a sharp knife and a piece of plywood. With their help, you can quickly and evenly cut the edges of the tiles.

Below is a video instruction correct styling bituminous shingles. It is clearly easier to understand the essence of the process.

Mounting is also quite simple:

a triangular rail is nailed around the chimneys and insulating material is necessarily used;
it is better to fit rubber o-rings around small diameter penetrations.

If a seam is formed, it is additionally coated with bituminous glue.

Final stage

As soon as the installation of bituminous shingles is completed, it is necessary to go to the ridge. Rainwater and other precipitation should flow from the top of the roof to the bottom. The ridge is the most important part of the roof.

During installation, use a special tile for the ridge. It can be purchased or independently cut tiles 0.33 by 0.25 centimeters from the eaves. It is very simple to do this: there is a perforation on the eaves tile, it divides the sheet into three parts. You need to cut strictly along these lines, and you will get the elements of the ridge.

The material is laid in this way: the protective film is removed, the bitumen shingles are glued and nailed on one side with four nails. The next tile will be laid so as to overlap the nail heads by at least 5 centimeters. For multi-pitched roofs, in the places of the upper ridge shingles, the bitumen shingles are folded in such a way that rainwater does not fall under the sheets.

The nuances of laying shingles

Bitumen works well at high temperatures. This is often not talked about on installation training videos, but you need to know this information. It is important to remember that even a modified cold working composition of this material works at a temperature of 30 degrees. That is why, when laying bituminous shingles in the cold season, be sure to use construction hair dryer... This will soften the adhesive backing.

Laying shingles is a fairly simple process, you can do it yourself if you follow simple rules. Safety regulations cannot be ignored. When working at height, secure the ladder and use a safety net. This is what will allow the newbie to cope with the work faster and better.

Installation of shingles can be done independently. This material allows you to create a reliable and aesthetic roof covering for pitched roof... Recently, soft tiles have attracted the attention of private developers, thanks to which they are gaining more and more popularity.

Sheathing device

Bituminous shingles are laid on a solid, even surface of a continuous sheathing. The base material is usually moisture resistant plywood or OSB. Also, a solid lathing can be made of grooved or edged boards... The sheet material is laid with the long side parallel to the ridge. Sheets or boards are joined on the rafters "at random" - on one rafter board, the joints of the sheathing elements of adjacent rows should not be located.

If the step of the rafters requires trimming the sheet material during installation, it is easier to pre-fill the rafters with a crate of unedged boards calibrated in terms of thickness (with the bark removed), and attach the solid flooring elements to it.

It is recommended to lay an undercoat roofing carpet on the prepared substrate. It evens out and additionally waterproofs the surface. In addition, this coating will provide high adhesion of bituminous tiles. Slopes with a slope angle of up to 30 ° are completely covered with tar paper in one or two layers (vertical overlap 150 mm, horizontal - 80 mm, laying parallel to the cornice). On steeper roofs, the lining layer must be installed in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge, valleys, and the places where the roof adjoins to vertical structures. The primer roofing felt is nailed, in valleys it is additionally glued.

Basic installation rules

When calculating the amount of material, some nuances should be taken into account. Bituminous shingles are designed to create a roof covering on roofs with a slope angle of 15 - 85 °. The package contains the design surface for a 45 ° slope. When the angle of inclination changes, the material consumption changes - for a roofing carpet of a flatter roof, more material will be needed, for a steep one - less. Hexagonal shingles can be used on roofs with a slope of at least 20 °.

Bitumen shingles are laid according to certain rules. To achieve a high-quality result, the temperature regime of work and the storage conditions of the material should be observed:

work on the installation of roofing should be carried out at an air temperature exceeding +5 ° С;
shingles must be stored in a closed room in a packed form, stacked on pallets in no more than 16 rows in height;
the primer roofing paper should be stored in rolls in an upright position;
if it is supposed to carry out work with relatively low temperatures, underlay and tiles must be removed to a warm room one day before installation.

During installation, soft shingles are not treated with a burner, unlike bitumen weld roofing. A protective polymer film is removed from the lower surface of the element prepared for installation, and the part is laid on the prepared plane. The adhesive surface of the shingles adheres tightly to the base under the influence of sunlight (in heat) or a hot air gun (in cool weather). If shingles are installed in cold or very windy weather, special bituminous glue should be used.

Elements of bituminous tiles from different packages may differ slightly in shade, color intensity. To make the finished roof look aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to spend a separate package of material on the slope... If a big square the slope does not allow this, the coating is assembled from elements that are taken in turn from several packages - this allows you to achieve an even distribution of shades.

In hot weather, the adhesive layer of shingles softens and the coating can deform under load. For this reason, on such a roof in the heat, you can only move using stairs or roofing "crampons".

Fastener features

Shingle roofing requires mechanical fastening of each element. For this purpose, can be used:

screw nails;
brushed nails;
staples (for installing tiles on a crate without a primer roofing coat).

The length of the roofing nail must be at least 26 mm and the diameter of the flat head must be 8 mm. Fasteners made of metal with high-quality anti-corrosion treatment are used. Each shingle is attached with 4 nails, which are hammered in at a distance of 2.5 cm from the sides of the tile and 14.5 from its bottom line.

The head of the hammered nail should be flush with the surface. Protruding fasteners can damage the roof element installed above. A deeply recessed nail creates a depression in which moisture can accumulate, which over time will lead to the destruction of the fasteners.

Bituminous glue is used to additionally strengthen the tiles at the junctions to windows and walls, on the ridge and in valleys, as well as for laying the coating in cold weather... The glue is applied from the cans with a steel spatula, and squeezed out of the cylinders with a special gun. Since bituminous glue hardens at temperatures below +10 ° C, when installing the roofing in cold weather, it must be preheated. The glued shingle should be pressed firmly against the base.

Laying shingles

In the first step, the metal eaves and windshields should be secured over the underlayment using screws or roofing nails with a flat head. Fasteners are installed along the entire length of the strip in a staggered order with a pitch of 100 mm. The metal strips are mounted with an overlap of 50 mm. The underlayment under the valleys is laid on top of the eaves.

Next, a shingle for the cornices is laid on top of the mounted cornice strip. The installation principle depends on the type of shingles: some material manufacturers advise leaving a gap of 1 cm between the bottom line of the cornice shingle and the edge of the cornice, in other cases it is recommended to overhang (1-1.5 cm) of the roofing material above the cornice. If the manufacturer does not offer special cornice shingles, it is necessary to cut off several ordinary ones and from the resulting adhesive strips lay out the first line of bituminous tiles on the cornice, gluing them end-to-end.

Installation of bituminous shingles starts from the bottom of the eaves, from the middle line of the slope - the shingles are stacked retreating to the left and right. The next row of roofing elements is placed so that the gap between the lower edge of the cornice row and the lower edge of the second line is 1–2 cm. In this case, a visual straight line of the cornice will be provided when looking at the roof from the ground. If shingles of shingles have rectangular shape, each even row must be started with half a shingle so that the elements move diagonally.

If shingles are installed on the roof of a house built in an area with strong winds, the distance between the rows of shingles should be reduced in order to increase the reliability of the coating. On such roofs, the visible part of the tiles will be smaller.

Secrets of a beautiful roof

Accurate installation of bituminous shingles with your own hands requires preliminary preparation of knowledge of some of the subtleties of installation. In particular, when traversing the structural elements of the roof, including the dormer window, the distance between the extreme shingles on both sides of the element should be a multiple of 1 meter - this will allow all subsequent rows to be correctly mounted.

Before starting the laying of the material, it is recommended to draw a slope vertically and horizontally with chalk directly along the primer roofing sheet, marking its middle line, as well as laying lines for every 4-5 rows of elements. If structural elements are located on the ramp (attic or dormer, chimney or ventilation stack), then vertical lines mark out from them. This makes it possible to carry out the installation as accurately and beautifully as possible.

Endows and skates

Skate shingles should be trimmed along the ridge line. After completing ventilation gap in the ridge, the upper edge of the roof is closed with a cornice shingle. Instead, you can use a trimmed regular shingle. In order to bend the shingle without the formation of microcracks, the material must be heated. Bituminous mastic will reliably waterproof the adjoining of the ridge covering to the roof.

Reliable waterproofing of the valley is carried out as follows: each shingle falling on the gutter should, without cutting, be fixed on the other side of the gutter with mechanical fasteners and glue. In this case, only the shingles of the upper row are cut off, and the valley gutter is reliably protected and will not leak during long-term operation of the roof.

Bitumen tile roofing is deservedly popular in most countries of the world, Russia is no exception. The buyer has a wide choice: products of large domestic manufacturers: Ruflex and Technonikol, roofing from a number of European, North American and South Korean companies. IN last years and Chinese manufacturers are showing an active interest in promoting their products to the Russian market.

Bituminous shingles are soft multi-layer plates with a thickness of 3-5 mm. The basis is fiberglass (in cheap versions, the basis is cellulose), impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition containing a mineral filler. The upper (outer) part of the tile is covered with colored stone chips (basalt or slate), it serves as protection and determines appearance shingles. The lower surface is partially covered with an adhesive layer and protected by a foil. In some embodiments, the lower part is sprinkled with fine silicon sand, the glue is partially applied on top.

Shingles from different manufacturers may have different dimensions, but the length of the shingles is usually one meter. Width - 30-35 cm. In this case, half of the plate is closed by the overlying one, providing a double overlap of the material. The shape and color of shingles can be very diverse. They often imitate natural traditional coatings: wooden shingles, slate stone roofing.

This is the shape of the Russian tile "Shinglas". The meter length is typical for almost everyone european manufacturers

In the "table of ranks", among other roofing materials, flexible bituminous tiles can be attributed to the middle price category. Depending on the quality on domestic market tiles cost in the range of 200-500 rubles per m 2. At a reasonable price, the material has quite attractive characteristics:

Bituminous shingles quite successfully imitate natural shingles, decorating this wooden frame. A ventilated ridge is made in the upper part of the roof (pictured above, left)

The service life of high-quality bituminous shingles is quite long - at least half a century. Moreover, the roof can be used in the northern Russian regions. The maximum guarantee is given by the manufacturer "Ruflex" from Nizhny Novgorod, all Finnish products are good. On the other hand, when buying cheap products made in Canada, the USA and China (at home, such a roof is sold from 3 USD), you should not expect the same durability from them.
Since the dimensions of the tiles are small (one row in height), cutting the material even on roofs complex shape practically waste-free. When using molded additional elements (skates, valleys), trims are also absent.

Flexible shingles are economical to cut with any roof shape

Flexible shingles are easy enough to install. You do not need to have a complex instrument and be highly qualified. It is enough to know the basic basics of carpentry, follow the manufacturer's recommendations and be careful.
Bitumen-polymer reinforced material creates a continuous sealed roof covering on the roof. Unlike sheet materials, there are no gaps. This is of the greatest importance in the valley (gutter) zone, where, in the presence of leaks, snow and ice can penetrate and gradually destroy this node. This does not threaten bituminous tiles. The lack of ventilation of a flexible roof requires mandatory ventilation of the roof space.
Bituminous shingles, being a flexible material, allow you to arrange roofing on roofs of rather complex shapes and curved surfaces.

Shingles are great for pretty complex roofs... Use of plates different shapes in one roof (right) allows you to create an interesting pattern

Shingles are flexible and can withstand slight deformations of the base without breaking the integrity of the surface.
Bituminous tiles do not form condensation, the best way dampens rain noise and is electrically non-conductive (in most cases there is no need for lightning protection). The surface covered with stone chips is completely non-slip. You can walk safely on the roof, there is no need for snow holders.
The flexible roof has a low weight - 7-9 kg, which allows you to save on the cross-section of the rafter system elements. On the other hand, rather high requirements are imposed on the base under the roof: it must be strong, solid and even.
Bituminous roof quite attractive, a wide variety of shades and configurations of tiles allows you to diversify the architectural solutions of houses with pitched roofs.

Foundation preparation

For laying shingles, a solid base is arranged. Can be used sheet materials: OSB, moisture resistant plywood. A good option is a continuous flooring of even calibrated edged (not grooved) boards, between which you should leave gaps of about 4 mm. It is imperative to leave the cracks, otherwise, when the humidity rises, the wood may swell, the flooring will "rise". It is also necessary to leave a gap of 3 mm between sheet materials. The best way fasteners - using self-tapping screws, you can use brushed nails.

Thus, you need to fix sheet materials. The long side should be parallel to the eaves overhang, and the sheets must necessarily run apart. If boards are used, their joints must also be distributed over different rafters.

OSB and plywood must have minimum thicknesscorresponding to the step of the rafters:

With a step of 60 cm, the thickness of the sheet material should be 12 mm, the board should be 20 mm.
Step 75 cm - plywood or OSB 15 mm, board 22 mm.
Step 90 cm - plywood or OSB 18 mm, board 25 mm.
Step 120 cm - 22 mm and 30 mm, respectively.
Step 150 mm - 28 mm sheet and 40 mm board.

The figures given are valid for the Moscow region, with heavy snow loads, the thickness of the base material will have to be increased.

Solid flooring in this case is made of moisture-resistant oriented strand board OSB (OSB). They are located across the slope and scattered.

It will be better if the step of the rafters does not exceed a meter. If sheet materials are used, the step of the rafters should be made a multiple of the size. This is 62.5 cm for OSB with a sheet size of 250 cm and 75 cm for plywood with a size of 150 cm, options are possible. With a large distance between the rafters, you will either have to increase the thickness of the lathing materials (this is not cheap), or mount an additional supporting lathing from below.

Roof design option. In this case, a counter-batten and an additional lathing are located on top of the rafter beams, which carries the base for the tiles from OSB sheets

Rafter system and materials for the base device are recommended to be pre-processed fire-retardant composition.

Ventilation device

Bituminous shingles are airtight, windproof and airtight roofing material. Therefore, the device of a roof made of bituminous tiles provides for the mandatory organization of ventilation of the under-roof space. If the attic is ventilated, it is enough to make ventilation holes in the pediments. With a combined roof, a counter-rail 35-40 mm thick is attached to the rafters, and the crate is mounted along it. Air channels are formed between the individual corners. At the bottom, air enters the filing, at the top it exits through special devices: a ventilated ridge or aerators. It is not necessary between the rafter beam and the counter-rail, but it is advisable to lay a waterproofing membrane, since it costs a little.

Ventilation schemes for the roof space. For an uncomplicated roof, the most effective and inexpensive option is a ridge aerator

Subtleties of installation technology

The technology for installing bituminous tiles for different brands is approximately the same, but there are minor differences. The recommendations given are valid for most products. However, after purchasing the material, it is necessary to obtain from the seller instructions for installing this particular brand of tiles and follow it exactly:

The storm water system can be suspended from two types of hooks. The first is attached to the skin and does not affect the roof in any way. The second is mounted on the edge of the roof and must be secured first. Calculate the required slopes and place the hooks at the correct elevations. If necessary, sink them into the base material.

Gutter hooks for option A (left) are attached before roofing begins.

The backing layer is made of rolled bitumen or bitumen-polymer material. Many manufacturers offer several options. With small roof slopes (on average, it is 10-18 °), the entire roof area is covered with a lining material. Rolls are overlapped (at least 8 cm on the long side and 15 cm on the short side), the joints are coated bituminous mastic... Fasten the lining with galvanized roofing nails in 20 cm increments.

Continuous laying pattern for underlay carpet. When laying horizontally, they start from the bottom, nails are placed along the edge of the canvas with a step of 20 cm

On the valleys and inclined ribs, additional strips of lining material are glued in front of the general gluing device.

The glands and ribs must have an additional backing layer: it is mounted at the very beginning

For slopes over 18 °, a continuous underlay is optional. It is enough to roll out the rolls along the roof contour (40 cm or more from the edge), in places of fractures (ribs, valleys) and abutments. However, if the "lining" is solid and with a greater slope, it certainly will not be worse.

Along the gables and cornices, metal cornice strips are mounted on top of the lining layer, from above they will be covered with tiles. The planks should overlap at the joint, the pitch of the roofing nails should not be more than 12 cm.

The overlap of the eaves plank is about 5 cm, the nails need to be staggered

If there is a pediment on the roof of a complex shape (possibly beveled), on which it is necessary to organize a water drain, preventing it from flowing out, it is necessary to form a small side under the eaves plank.

The next step is to glue and nail the valley roll carpet.
Now you can start installing the eaves strip. It is glued and nailed along the entire lower overhang.

In order to neatly glue the main roof, the roof surface will have to be marked. Chalk is used more often. The upper edges of the plates are marked with a step indicated in the instructions for the purchased tile.

Valley node. It can be seen that the lining layer is located at the bottom, the valley strip is on top, a cornice strip is glued to it and, finally, the main roof. Endows, all fractures and contours are glued with mastic

We proceed to laying ordinary strips of bituminous tiles. The first step is to mix the tiles. The fact is that it can have an unequal shade in different packages, this is allowed by all manufacturers. To avoid seeing the difference in color, tiles must be taken alternately from different packs. Moreover, the packaging should be selected arbitrarily, and not in order.

Lay the tiles from bottom to top. The slope of the roof in this case is higher than 18 °, there is no need for a continuous lining

We start the first row from the bottom, stepping back 1-2 cm from the edge. We remove the film. As a rule, it is located on the bottom and top, on the adhesive layer.

It is better to start installation from the middle, closing the joint of the eaves strip. We step back a little from the edge. Before installation, remove the protective film where necessary, otherwise the plates will not stick together

For fixation, use galvanized nails with a thin wide head. They are hammered in such a way that the caps are completely covered by the overlying sheets. The location of fasteners for different types of shingles is different.

Do not forget to glue metal strips and all edges of the roofing planes with mastic

Particular attention should be paid to the design of the valley. There are two options: open and braided. With an open gutter, ordinary tiles are not brought to the fracture of the valley by 7-8 cm on each side. Attention ! Some "craftsmen" prefer to cut the tiles directly on the valley, already glued. In no case should you do this. Together with top layer the knife will also damage the carpet. This seemingly slight negligence is the reason for the lion's share of the current roofs.

"Open" node of the valley. Don't forget to apply glue. In order not to damage the underlying layers, the tiles must be cut not on the roof, but on an OSB sheet or board before installation

A braided gutter is safer than an open one. At first glance, its structure is more complicated, because the strips need to be alternately braided like plaits. But experienced experts say that with the right approach, this option is easier, since you need to mark and cut less.

The braided valley is laid like a braid: the plates alternately pass through the gutter. The overlap on the opposite slope should not be less than 30 cm, and the nails should not be located closer than 15 cm from the fracture of the valley

The ridge crowns the roof. In most models, this is a strip divided by perforation into individual elements. The parts of the ridge are divided, bent in half, removed from the bottom of the adhesive layer protective film and fastened with four nails so that they are hidden under the next sheet. Overlap - 5 cm.

Horizontal ridge and oblique rib hip roof are issued the same

The junctions of chimneys and vertical walls are pre-pasted over with a special carpet (often lining). The carpet is wound up to 30 cm on the roof, 20 cm overlap. It is recommended to install a metal apron on top.

The metal apron is fixed with dowels, the joint with the pipe is sealed with silicone sealant

Typical elements of the passage through the roof (ventilation, antennas) have a special design and complete seals.

Passage seals are fastened with nails, ordinary tiles are glued on top

Do not forget to provide ventilation outlets. The most inexpensive and effective option - ventilated ridge. Standard aerators can be used.

Ridge aerator design. You can use ready-made, plastic. It is easy to install, but it will cost more

So, now we see that the installation of a bituminous tile roof is a relatively simple task, nevertheless, requiring accuracy and careful adherence to the manufacturer's instructions, which you need to have at hand during work. From the tools you will need: a hammer, tape measure, a marking cord, metal scissors, a sharp boot knife. The cordless screwdriver will facilitate the work and allow the use of screws at the stage of preparation of the base. You also need to keep in mind what to mark the roof: chalk for bitumen, pencil for wood.