How to adjust the height of a plastic entrance door. How to independently adjust a plastic balcony door: point adjustment. Vertical hinge adjustment

Today, the choice of apartment and house owners often falls on a plastic door. It is used as an entrance, interior or balcony. In any of these options, the plastic design looks interesting, attracts attention and guarantees good performance characteristics. However, in winter, plastic doors require special care - you need to transfer them to winter mode.

Attention! You can change the door operation for winter yourself. The owners are wondering how to adjust the sash so that it retains heat in the room and eliminates drafts. Adjustment is easy, but it is recommended to first know what winter and summer mode are.

Arrangement of fittings on a PVC door leaf

Characteristics of plastic structures and methods for opening them

Home renovation involves not only replacing floors, ceilings, or dismantling partitions, but also installing new windows and doors. This is a responsible and difficult step, but it is necessary. Residents of our country purchase plastic windows, which manufacturers give different sizes and characteristics. But the main function of plastic windows and doors to the balcony is to give the room as much beauty, warmth and light as possible.

During the renovation process, due attention must be paid to the installation of plastic windows. Let us note that their price is acceptable for every person, and their performance capabilities are high. For plastic windows and doors different ways opening. There are designs in which the sash is rotating; such models are the most common. There are also windows with a folding sash; they are convenient to use when ventilating rooms. Models of windows and doors with a tilt-and-turn opening method are also available, and such windows are easy to clean.

The only one important nuance During the renovation period, proper installation and adjustment of all elements of plastic windows becomes necessary. Only professionals who install these structures can perform such work. Therefore, do not skimp on paying employees, since windows are installed once and for a long time, and everything must be at the highest level.

Adjustment and correct setting accessories

Useful information about PVC doors

It is recommended to purchase plastic doors exclusively from trusted companies. Only brands that have proven themselves on the market guarantee a long service life of the device. It is preferable to entrust the installation work to professionals. However, if you have the skills and relevant knowledge, you can do the installation yourself. The initial adjustment of the structure is also important.

Even at the door acceptance stage, take a closer look at certain indicators. Pay attention to the material, fittings, including locks and handles. Each element requires professional adjustment. In particular, attention is paid to the following:

Normal closing and opening of doors. There shouldn't be any difficulties. To check the vertical and horizontal installation, use building level.
Pressing the leaf tightly against the door frame. It should be dense and uniform around the entire perimeter.
Arbitrary opening or closing of the door must be completely prevented.

The process of adjusting PVC canvas in case of failures in its initial setting

If everything is in order, it means the door is of high quality and you can enjoy its use. Of course, do not forget that the door needs adjustment from time to time. Twice a year it is switched to winter or summer mode.

Read also: - debugging rules and expert advice

When is door adjustment needed?

Often people notice a problem when it is already running: drafts arise, the door does not close or open well. These are already problems that were the result of previously unnoticed situations. In fact, you can see all the shortcomings of operation at primary stage. It's much easier to fix the problem here.

There are many in various ways see the shortcomings of the door. One of the simplest helps to determine the weakening of the pressure of the canvas to the box. For this you will need a sheet of paper. It is clamped between the frame and the door frame. After this, they carefully pull the sheet and, if this is done with difficulty, then everything is in order with the door pressing. This check should be performed along the entire perimeter of the structure. If malfunctions are noted, they will have to be corrected. Using available tools, the pressure is maximized.

The problem may also be subsidence of the canvas. The door in the closed position is circled around the perimeter. Pencil lines should match the edges door frame V open position doors If deviations are detected, you will have to adjust the position of the sash.

Useful recommendations for setting up a metal-plastic canvas

Horizontal adjustment: operating algorithm

Horizontal adjustment is required when the door sags due to its own gravity. A typical manifestation may be the handle sticking when the mechanism's crossbars do not fit into the grooves intended for them. As a result, the structure is difficult to open and drafts occur. The following algorithm will help to cope with the problem, switching the door to winter mode:

Open the door.
Remove the screws from the top hinges.
Close the sash.
Remove the covers and unscrew the long horizontal screw.
Inspect the screw for damage. If they are missing, screw it back in, tightening it more at the top loop.
Remove the trim from the bottom hinges.
Adjust the operation of the lower hinges by tightening or loosening them to ensure even movement of the sash.

Basic options for adjusting metal-plastic sheets

Vertical door adjustment and pressure adjustment

May require tuning and adjustment door design and vertically. Here questions arise about how to adjust the sash in order to switch the product to winter mode. To do this, find a screw, which is called an adjusting screw. It is usually located at the bottom end of each loop. To adjust it, use a traditional hexagon of suitable size. Depending on the direction in which the screw rotates, the sash will lower or rise. Clockwise movement promotes lifting, counterclockwise movement promotes lowering.

Read also: - stages of work, materials and tools

Additionally, the clamping force is adjusted using a locking pin, which is available on any blade. There is an indicator notch on it, which can be loosened or tightened depending on the need.

Attention! The adjustment screw is often hidden behind a plug. This is important to consider when trying to adjust the design.

External view of the PVC entrance door

Now you know how to independently configure your doors for winter operation. The configured version of the design is easy to subsequently adjust, the handle works properly, and the product itself easily opens and closes without letting in the cold. If you do not fully understand how to switch plastic doors to winter mode, check out the video presented. It will accurately and clearly illustrate how to switch plastic products to “winter” or “summer” mode. After watching the video, switching the door to winter mode will be easy for you.

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Every user of plastic products, after a long period of operation, faces a dilemma - how to adjust a plastic door? No matter how high the quality characteristics of the door and its components, which are designed to ensure the closing and opening of the PVC door, have, after a certain time the mechanism, one way or another, will need adjustment.

If it is necessary to regulate a PVC door, it would be more rational to contact the appropriate specialists, in particular those who installed it. But, unfortunately, such an opportunity is not always available, and it is unlikely that the technician will be dispatched on the day of the call.

In addition, mastering the skill yourself is not at all difficult, since the process of adjusting a plastic door is not something supernatural. Moreover, customizing plastic products is never a frequent procedure. Adjusting a plastic door is only relevant if you have a complaint about the functioning of the door.

The installation of a new plastic door also includes adjustment work, which is carried out immediately, and for a long time afterwards, the design should not raise unnecessary questions. But after a period of active use, the product will still need to adjust the mechanism, as a result of sagging, bad pressure or the inability to close the door.

Despite the excellent quality and confidence in the organization that installs the door, it is recommended to personally observe the adjustment process to make sure that the adjustment of the plastic doors was carried out correctly.

Upon completion of work related to the establishment of hinges of a plastic structure, pay attention to the following points:

the frame should be pressed tightly against the box around the perimeter;
opening and closing the door should be easy, without additional effort, without squeaks;
use a building level to check the verticality of the door;
check the random opening and closing of the sash. To do this, you need to open the door halfway, and when checking, exclude the influence of wind and draft.

Frequent damage to plastic doors

The most popular defects in product operation are:

The bottom edge of the sash touches a part of the frame that functions as a threshold. This occurs as a result of the sash sliding under the influence of its weight;
The canvas touches the middle of the frame. The reason for this is the direct movement of the sash under the influence of various deformations, as well as temperature;
Poor pressing of the sash to the frame, as a result of wear of the seal;
Staggering and falling out of the door handle socket.

Initially, it may seem that adjusting a plastic door is a complicated procedure based on the options for possible malfunctions. But in fact, you just need to understand which mechanism needs adjustment, and the instructions below will help you troubleshoot problems with your own plastic product.

Adjustment of plastic structure

Before you start installing a PVC door with your own hands, stock up on screwdrivers (regular, flat and Phillips), hex keys different sizes, gaskets.

Competent instructions and necessary tools will allow you to correctly perform the entire cycle with your own hands, and as a result, the adjustment of plastic doors will be carried out successfully and safely.

Eliminating sash sagging

To eliminate such a breakdown, you should point the blade upward and slightly move it towards the loop, which is located above. Open the sash, and using a hex key (4 mm), turn the screw on the end of the sash at the top, at the location of the hinges.

To move the sash, make about 1-2 turns in a clockwise direction. After this, close the sash and remove the protective cap from the hinges located below. Turn the screw on the top hinges, slightly lifting the blade. If the sash moves easily, then the problem is solved.

Pressure adjustment

Schemes for adjusting hinges on a plastic door.

To adjust the pressure of the canvas to the frame, it is necessary to use a locking element. It is located inside the sash and acts as eccentrics. The trunnions are adjusted with a special key and pliers.

Do-it-yourself pressure adjustment is done in summer and winter periods, this is sufficient for normal operation of the product. In winter, you should independently adjust the pressure tighter and stronger than in summer. It is necessary to press the sash to the frame from the hinge side using adjusting screws.

Horizontal adjustment

Correction of the operation of hinges of a plastic structure can be done in both vertical and horizontal directions. To make horizontal adjustments, first remove the door from the hinges at the top.

Then close it and lift the caps that hide the adjustment screws. To avoid warping the product, tighten the long screw at the top hinges slightly with more force than at the bottom. To ensure uniform movement of the sash, remove the trim from the hinges and tighten it by loosening the horizontal screws located in the door hinges.

Vertical loop adjustment

If it is necessary to raise or lower the product, adjust the mechanism vertically. There is an adjusting screw along the axis of the lower hinge. To adjust the entrance plastic doors, a hex screwdriver (5 mm) is useful.

By turning the tool, the door can be raised slightly, and if the screwdriver is rotated reverse side– the structure will be lowered.

How to avoid frequent adjustments?

It will not be possible to completely get rid of door adjustments, but making it less frequent is quite possible. When purchasing a double-glazed window, make sure that the fittings match the weight of the panel.

The optimal weight of the sash is considered to be 100-130 kilograms.

Sagging of the structure under its own weight can be eliminated by installing an auxiliary element of the fittings, which is called a sagging compensator, better known as a “microlift”.

Such a detail is simply necessary for the product, especially if there is a double-glazed window with impressive dimensions of the structure. And if you correctly install the support rail - the opening limiter - with your own hands, you can easily avoid jamming and sagging of the structure.

As you can see, adjusting a plastic door is not very difficult if you wish.

Metal-plastic doors have a lot of advantages, but during operation they almost always require adjustment. However, this is a relative disadvantage: it is much more difficult, if not impossible, to return a warped wooden or deformed metal door to working condition. The purpose of this article is to give the reader an idea of how a plastic door is adjusted.

For what?

But why go through the door yourself? What are masters for? Door installers, especially in the periphery, are extremely reluctant to adjust installed door, or they refuse altogether: “We’ll set it up like it was done at the factory, and if anything happens, there’s a call center phone number in the contract.” What if the closest service center with an adjuster only in the regional center? And not even in your area? Acting according to the company’s instructions (if one is attached to the contract), you can “drive” the door so that you still have to call a company or a local craftsman for a decent amount of money, and even lose the warranty. Why? Into metal plastic doors from 5 to 8 interconnected adjustable technological units. Operations with each of them individually are elementary (see below), but without a clear idea of what to do and how to turn it, the door will constantly blow out or completely jam. It’s good if it’s open. Therefore, everyone who has metal-plastic doors and windows in their home needs to know how to properly adjust them with their own hands without violating the warranty.

Tool

In order to avoid scratches and scuffs until the warranty expires, the door/window made of metal-plastic must be adjusted using a special adjusting key. This is the only tool you will need, but it is not included in the door package: routine service operations are a significant piece of butter on the bread of window and door system suppliers and their contractors.

At home, you can independently adjust a metal-plastic door/window using a regular 6-sided socket wrench of caliber 4 or (rarely) 6 mm (No. 4 and No. 6, respectively), pos. And in Fig. If you recently bought cabinet furniture, then perhaps the assemblers left behind a furniture key for confirmation (item B). This is exactly what is needed; in extreme cases (very tight slopes, etc.) one horn will have to be cut off. In a more or less large city, in a tool, construction or furniture store, you can also purchase a special door adjusting key, pos. B. It is much more convenient to work this way, and the adjustment time is reduced from 30-60 minutes to 10-15.

Note: very rarely, to adjust the most expensive doors in the elite price segment, you may need a special triangle or sprocket key with a caliber of 4 mm. It is difficult to find it on sale, but the contract for the installation of such doors usually includes free one-year service with the possibility of switching to a subscription service in the future.

Adjustment units

In doors of regular price categories, depending on their manufacturer and design features (with ventilation, i.e. with or without a tilting leaf), there are from 5 to 8 structural units that can be adjusted. Some of them are for operational purposes (to transfer the door from summer to winter mode or vice versa), some are subject to regular maintenance in the form of lubricant, and some are used to eliminate problems that have arisen as a result of operational wear of the door itself, fluctuations in climatic conditions by season, and the inherent shrinkage of building structures and etc.

Note: to simplify the presentation of what follows, we will agree, in naval language, to call the vertical edge of the door leaf, fixed in the hinges, the root, and the free one, on which there is a handle and possibly a lock/locks, as the chassis.

The operational adjustments of the plastic door (for troubleshooting) are shown on the left in the figure; operational adjustment (for changing the winter/summer mode) and subject to routine maintenance - on the right. Both of them, and possible manipulations with them, are described in more detail below; For now, we will note, for now we will only note that it is not recommended to “finish” the door with operational regulation bodies if there are “not enough” operational ones. Otherwise, the wear and tear of not only the parts to be replaced (sealing gasket), but also the door as a whole is greatly accelerated.

The purpose of those shown in Fig. door adjustment controls are as follows:

The upper hinge (pos. 1 and 1a) by itself or in conjunction with the lower one regulates the skew of the door, i.e. tilt in the plane of the door leaf. Synchronously with the bottom - allows you to raise/lower the blade, adjust its clamping force and perform a lateral shift of the blade, i.e. linear movement in its plane. On entrance doors without ventilation, full-function hinges (positions 1, 2 and 3) are often installed, providing adjustment in 3 planes. For ventilated balconies there are hinges with limited adjustment functionality, but they allow the door leaf to be tilted, pos. 1a and 2a. For more information about both, see below.
The purpose of the lower loop (pos. 2 and 2a) is the same, but due to the skew it acts oppositely from the upper one: if, for example, the blade is moved forward (from the root edge to the running edge), and the upper loop is not touched, then the front (running edge of the blade will rise If you simultaneously push the door leaf back with the top hinge (pull it towards the root edge), then the skew of the door will increase.If both hinges push/push the door leaf out equally, then it will move forward/backward without skew.
The middle hinge (if any, item 3), regardless of its design, only regulates the clamping force and raising/lowering the door. An attempt to regulate the lateral displacement of the canvas with the middle loop - common reason door jamming due to improper adjustment.

Note: the pressure and, especially, the raising/lowering of the door are regulated strictly in concert with both (or all three) hinges. For example, if you unscrewed/wrapped the microlift (lifting and lowering device) of the lower loop by 0.5 turns, but you need to unscrew/twist the microlifts of the middle and upper by the same amount. They forgot - the door can open/close, but soon the pins will come out of the hinges, or the hinges themselves will become loose (which cannot be repaired), or something else will happen that will raise the question of replacing the door.

Pressing teeth (item 4) in inexpensive non-ventilated balcony doors set the pressing force of the leaf, but using them to move the door from summer to winter is a gross mistake, which sometimes causes the seams of the door frame to burst. Doors with locking teeth instead of the rear branch of the shut-off valves and without its upper branch are the cheapest; switching them from summer to winter mode is not provided for by the design, even if the trunnions (see below) allow this. Also, locking teeth are sometimes called anti-burglary, because They are located approximately in the same places as the anti-burglary cones of entrance doors. But this is completely false - the clamping teeth do not help at all from breaking the door, because... mechanically free from the outside of the door.
The locking pins (item 5), firstly, ensure the door is locked. Secondly, by turning them, the door is switched from summer to winter mode and back, which is not a violation of warranty obligations by the consumer, i.e. You can “twist the DAC” with a suitable tool (see above) yourself. Thirdly, the trunnions require periodic lubrication, which you can also do yourself, see below.

Typical problems

The second condition for the “non-burnout” of the guarantee and simply for the long successful service of the door is not to “twist the DAC” at random, groping for a solution at random, but to determine which of the typical door malfunctions the real problem is closest to:

There is a blow through the latch door. Turn the knob down and the blowing stops. Don't do anything, that's how it should be. Switching the door to winter/summer modes prematurely, before the seal begins to wear out, prolongs the service life of the seal, but wears out the locking fittings more, which is a much more serious problem;
The same thing, but after locking the door it still blows, albeit weaker. Check the clamp (see below). Weakened - it’s time to switch the door to winter-summer switching, because... The seal has started to wear out. It’s not a big problem, it will last for a long time, definitely until the end of the warranty, and replacing the seal can be done with your own hands. We switch the door to winter mode - the “barrel” has disappeared? Order. No - see next.
Measures under item 2 did not help. The door is not the cheapest, with a locking mechanism of 2-3 branches. We increase the clamping force of the web using lateral displacement regulators in the hinges (pressure regulators, see below);
pp. 2-3 helped partially: in the front, where the handle is, it doesn’t blow, but at the top and/or behind it does. We check the serviceability of the transmission units of the locking mechanism (see below). Does not work? If the door is under warranty, we file a claim – the case is 100% guaranteed. There is no way to make warranty repairs or the warranty has expired? Let's see if we can fix it ourselves, also see below;
Same situation, but a cheap door with locking teeth. We strengthen the overall pressure by extending the teeth (carefully and carefully, see below!), set the locking pins on the running edge to the “winter” position;
Measures according to paragraphs. 2-5 didn't help. We inspect the seal. Is it crumpled because the door is of poor quality or because the door was used incorrectly? The seal needs to be replaced. We buy a new sealing cord, the same as the old one. We take out the unusable one (it is simply pulled out of the groove), and install a new one. It is convenient to press it so that it fits into the groove using small pliers, but not too much so as not to tear the elastic plastic;
Step 6 didn’t help either. The clamp is perfect, all possible adjustments have been made, but it’s blowing. Most often - through loops, which can sweat. This is a dangerous situation because... Thin-walled metal profile liners can become very rusty and the entire door will become unusable. The reason is a violation of installation technology. Possibly - forced, if the door in the house is of unsuitable design, see below. For example, the house is aerated concrete or new door placed in the opening of an old wooden one, and the groove under the frame in it is too narrow and/or deep to fit the mounting plates. Inspection of the frame at open door detects through holes for anchors and/or turboprops (screws for stone), see fig., cold air flows through them and leaks behind the seal. We plug the holes with stoppers from pharmaceutical bottles, a piece of foam film or penoizol, etc.
It doesn't blow anywhere, but when there is wind, the hinges sweat. Severe case: wind through the gaps of poor-quality masonry or wooden structure pushes cold air up to the mounting plates. They, in turn, are attached through the plastic to the metal profile liners, like the hinges. This creates cold bridges, which also leads to rusting of the steel in the profile. If the house is wooden, re-caulk it in the spring, which may require removing the outer siding. Stone house The outside will also need to be replastered in the spring. If the house is old brick (a Soviet-built apartment building), then the only way out, also in the spring, is to order external insulation with polystyrene foam or polyurethane;
After all possible measures according to paragraphs. 1-9 still blows. Checking with a strip of newspaper or tissue paper shows that it blows unevenly along the contour of the door or in selected places. Checking the tightness of the seal (see below) confirms the determination based on drafts. The door is deformed, perhaps imperceptibly to the eye. Based on the strength of drafts, we determine the nature of the deformation and, if technically possible, correct the problems by adjusting the hinges, see below and further;
It blows at the top on the running edge and at the bottom on the main edge. Perhaps the lower running edge is catching on the threshold. Probable Cause- unreasonable savings. We ordered a door with warm, but expensive and heavy double-glazed windows, but decided to save on fittings and profiles. In this case, the horizontal imposts (beams) of the sash were bent. Using the lateral shift regulator on the lower loop, we move the blade forward (away from the loops), and with the same upper one back (towards the loops);
With drafts the situation is the opposite (very rare). The door frame was distorted building structure due to savings on polyurethane foam or improper formation of mounting plates, see below. Correction - in the reverse order of paragraph 10;
Blows at approx. evenly. There is either no blowing below, or a weak draft. The sash may be rubbing all over the threshold. Again, unreasonable savings, but now the fittings turned out to be weaker than the profiles and sagged. Using microlifts of the hinges we move the door up;
It blows stronger at the back (near the hinges) than at the front. There may be a lull on the running edge. The sash may be catching the frame with its running edge. The door is locked tightly, and the profile “plays” when you turn the handle. Checking the locking mechanism (see below) shows its serviceability. Lateral deformation of the frame for the reasons of point 12. Using lateral displacement regulators in the hinges (clamping force regulators) we increase the pressing force of the sash;
It blows strongly from below. Less from the sides, and stronger approx. at the middle of the sash height. The sash may be catching on the lintel (upper cross member) of the frame. We lower the door using hinge microlifts. If the drafts on the sides have not stopped, and the magnetic latch holds the door poorly or not at all, the worst has happened - the building structure’s own shrinkage, combined with improper installation of the door, has caused the frame to sag. A possible, but very labor-intensive, repair option without replacing the door is non-destructive dismantling, straightening the frame and subsequent reassembly. The plaster on the slopes will have to be beaten, the foam will have to be scooped out, the door will have to be removed from the opening and the sash will have to be removed. Then - measurements of the frame and straightening it with a jack with a T-shaped spacer made of wooden beam. Be extremely careful, the frame may burst at the seams! Passed by - reverse correct installation, as in a wooden house, see below, foaming, plastering and finishing slopes.

Note to clause 8: the situation is quite likely in old brick apartment buildings. The author knows of a case where experienced conscientious craftsmen installed a balcony block in such a house. Then they didn’t know what to say to the owner - in a strong wind, the side trim flew off the window sill. “Barabashka’s things” stopped when external insulation was installed in the apartment.

How to check the seal

Checking the proper amount of pressing force on a plastic door is done with a sheet of uncoated and non-glossy writing paper with a density of 9-110 g/sq. dm. Test time - immediately after completion heating season or just before it starts. They check together; The controller operates from the outside. The edge of a sheet of paper is placed under the seal itself so that it is not pinched by the locking mechanism. The assistant locks the door from the inside, and the controller pulls out the paper, see fig. on right. The sheet should be pulled out tightly, so that smooth transverse folds appear along the paper, but not tear. It breaks - the clamp is too tight, it needs to be loosened, because... The seal, locking fittings and adjustment elements wear out intensively. The paper comes out easily, without wrinkling - the pressure is weak, it needs to be strengthened, otherwise in winter there will be a draft and you will have to tinker with the door, letting the cold into the house.

House for the door

The situation described in paragraph 14 of the list of typical problems with a plastic door is typical for wooden houses. With all its magnificent positive qualities The own shrinkage of wooden houses (not settlement along with the foundation) reaches enormous values: up to 8-12% in height in the first 3-4 years, if the house is made of unseasoned wood. And then, depending on the temperature and air humidity, a wooden house “plays” in height up to 1 cm/m. Therefore, the installation of plastic doors in a wooden house should be carried out in compliance with the following. rules:

Place the door frame only on the mounting plates. Do not use rigid main fasteners (screws, anchors).
Leave technological gaps for foaming between the door frame and its opening at least 3-4 cm; better – 5-8 cm.
Take longer mounting plates so that the technological bends of their legs are at least 135 degrees (no more than 45 degrees from the plane of the plate body.
Technical clearances of all doors, incl. internal in a heated room, foam only with winter foam with a minimum pour point (not operational hardened foam!) not higher than –15 degrees. Winter foam is more elastic, stronger than summer foam and, in combination with long, flat plates, better counters the loads of the building structure that deform the door.
Foam strictly according to technology, in layers no thicker than 10-12 cm. Under no circumstances should you foam the gap to its entire depth at once! Blow out the next layer when the previous one has hardened from the surface; Yes, there is no other way, otherwise the new foam will pull the old foam along with it and all together will crawl out of the gap.
Foam only from mounting gun– with a manual spray gun you cannot achieve the required quality of work.

Note: another typical situation for wooden houses plastered inside with shingles is folds and rounded holes in the wallpaper at the junction of the walls and the ceiling, as if someone is gnawing on them (the wallpaper) from the inside. No alien cockroaches live under the wallpaper; again, due to seasonal deformations of the building structure, the wallpaper wrinkles, and sand or plaster crumbles out of the plaster, which rubs holes. But in this case it’s easier for residents - just install polyurethane ceiling skirting boards(ceiling baguette).

Doors in a house made of SIP

It is generally not recommended to install metal-plastic doors in a wooden house, especially a new one. But there are buildings for which there is virtually no alternative to metal-plastic doors. These are houses made of SIP (structural insulated panels; SIP, structural insulated panel). Construction from SIP is, to put it mildly, a debatable topic - they have too many shortcomings. One of them is the high acoustic quality factor of the house. Metal-plastic doors do not slam, they click very quietly and they themselves perfectly dampen sounds, and they do not have their own shrinkage of the SIP structure. Therefore, plastic doors can be installed in a SIP house without fear, and its inhabitants will be much less likely to feel like they are living in the big drum of Ian Pace or John Bonham. But the anti-acoustic properties of plastic doors are fully manifested only when they are finely tuned; how to adjust metal-plastic doors in a SIP house, see video:

Video: adjusting a plastic door in a SIP house

Adjustment and maintenance elements

Let's consider the structural components of metal-plastic doors in descending order of their importance: from those intended for seasonal change of mode to those subject to inspection and maintenance. There's no escape from switching the door from summer to winter - it's blowing. Minor problems need to be corrected immediately for the same reason, and so that they do not develop into larger problems. Door maintenance is required 1-2 times a year, and it almost always takes time.

Trunnions and teeth

Trunnions not only switch the door into seasonal mode; They also ensure its reliable locking. The anti-burglary function of a trunnion lock is very relative, “from honest people”: a double-glazed window can be cut quite easily with a diamond glass cutter, and a sandwich insert can be cut completely silently with a sharp knife.

The design and operating principle of the trunnion locking mechanism are shown in Fig. (catcher configurations in specific mechanisms different systems are different). When closing the door (pos. A-B, the pin passes under the catcher with a small gap. It is under, and not above the catcher, so that if the shut-off valves malfunction (see below), the pin that falls down does not jam the door tightly. In position B, the door becomes magnetic latch. When the handle is turned down, the bolt lifts the trunnion, sliding in the slot of the crossbar bar, and pulls it behind the catcher - the door is locked. To avoid damage to the mechanism by careless users, the locking mechanism is equipped with a pendulum lock, which allows you to turn the handle up and down only when the door is locked latch.

Note: anti-burglary pins differ from conventional ones in their mushroom-shaped configuration, and their catchers have a groove with the side bent inwards, at the bottom right in Fig.

There are 2 types of locking pins: oval and eccentric. Oval ones (on the left in the figure) are gradually falling out of use. Installing them for summer and winter is easy; you can immediately see what pressure they are set to. But the oval trunnions do not hold the pressure well, especially at its average values, when the wear of the seal has just begun. In addition, to adjust the oval trunnions, you need a shaped wrench, and pliers scratch their coating, which is mechanical damage and the basis for voiding the warranty.

There are quite a few varieties of eccentric journals; in the center in Fig. some are shown. The installation mark is made on the wide edge of the eccentric, which provides the greatest (winter) door pressure. Since switching the door according to the season is a necessary operation and is carried out by the user, doors with trunnions on planks (down in the center) are increasingly being found, both for a socket and for the more common open-end wrench 8/10, 9/11 or 10/12. But you don’t need to twist them with pliers: it’s inconvenient, and the coating (probably for “foolproofing”) is easily damaged by the wrong tool.

How the trunnions are adjusted according to the season is shown on the right in Fig. Oval ones can be turned in any direction, and eccentric ones for the winter are set with a mark in the warm direction (indoors), although some eccentric manufacturers make trunnions with the mark in the opposite direction. In this case, the desired position is determined by the draft from the door. There are also trunnions with a rotation limiter, so you need to twist them without using excessive force so as not to break them. If it doesn’t work, we turn in the other direction. It doesn’t work at all - either the shut-off valves are faulty (see below), or the door is a cheap single-mode door and the pins on the crossbar are riveted tightly. On transferring a plastic door with pins from summer to winter mode and back, see also the video:

Video: transferring a plastic door from summer to winter mode

Note: the eccentricities of producers of consumer goods and buyers of their products sometimes border on pathology. Thus, in the late 70s and early 80s in Hong Kong, a company that produced wristwatches with reverse hands and a dial divided into 27 hours of 53 minutes each received good income.

Teeth

The locking/clamping tooth structure of a cheap plastic door is shown in the following. rice.:

When the door is closed, the tooth creeps onto the shoe (most often plastic), which ensures that the root edge of the door leaf is pressed (in position A, marks from the tooth on the shoe are visible). The tooth is adjusted with a screw with a head for a 6-sided socket wrench, located to the hole on the bevel of the tooth, pos. B. By tightening the screw, the tooth is pushed out; unscrewing - pushing. The permissible displacement during one adjustment cycle (before the need for the next one) is 0.5-1.5 mm; this is 1-3 full turns of the key. There are 2-3 teeth on the door; they must be regulated strictly according to, i.e. unscrewing/screwing all screws the same number of turns. An exception is deformation of the vertical pillars of the door frame, but then after each turn of the key you need to check the pressure of the teeth with paper, as described above.

Loops

By adjusting the hinged hinges, minor problems with the plastic door are eliminated: skew of the leaf, its displacement in the frame, uneven and/or insufficient pressure at the bottom and top. Hinges for entrance and balcony metal-plastic doors are significantly different in design and adjustment methods.

Hinges for entrance doors made of metal-plastic (item 1 in the figure) are sometimes called barn hinges for some external similarity. But the “barn” hinge has only one wing, and its body is attached directly to the steel profile insert (item 2), so all manipulations with the hinges must be done carefully: if the profile is dented, the door will have to be replaced. Hinges for balcony doors are different in design: the upper one (item 3) has a pressure regulator, and the bottom pin (item 4) is almost always fixed on a hinge with 2 degrees of freedom. There are also non-adjustable hinges for interior plastic doors on sale; Structurally, they are identical to hinges for windows without ventilation and are the same (top and bottom).

For the front door

Structurally, the hinges on the same entrance unventilated plastic door are the same; there can be 2 or 3 of them. Each hinge is adjustable for pressure, lateral displacement (skew) and lifting and lowering, but do not forget: you cannot try to adjust the lateral displacement of the door leaf with the middle hinge, even if there is deformation of the frame! The middle hinge regulates only the pressure and height of the sash, and synchronously with the top and bottom! Otherwise, even if the door does not jam, its operational wear will be much greater than normal.

The location of the hinge adjustment controls for plastic entrance doors from popular manufacturers is shown in Fig. It is generally uniform, as is its feature: the microlift regulator (raising/lowering the sash) is located at the bottom, and the pressure regulator is at the top of the hinge. Psychologically, this is somewhat unusual, which explains many of the failures of home craftsmen in adjusting their doors.

For balcony

The first feature of hinges for plastic doors with ventilation is that to access the adjustment controls it is often necessary to remove the thin-walled plastic decorative casing. If it cannot be removed by hand, you can pry it out with a blunt flat-head screwdriver: breaking the casing does not void the door’s warranty, although it cannot be replaced free of charge. Second - functionality the controls in this case are distributed between the upper and lower loops, and for each of them they are most often limited.

In inexpensive doors without ventilation, the upper hinge regulates only the lateral displacement/distortion (pos. 1 in the figure), and the lower hinge also regulates the distortion and lifting/lowering, pos. 4. The upper hinge of such doors almost always, and the lower one often, can be adjusted with a simple socket key or a furniture key, pos. 2. In doors that are more expensive to ventilate, the top hinge is most conveniently adjusted with a door adjustment key for lateral displacement (skew), pos. 3a, and along the clamp, pos. 3b. In this case, the entire height of the sash is adjusted by the lower hinge, pos. 5. If there is a nuance common to both cases: if adjusting the lower hinge for misalignment is difficult or the key “does not want” to rotate the adjuster at all, open the door and look at the lower hinge from the side of the frame. You will probably see the skew adjuster stopper, pos. 6. You need to loosen it, adjust the door, and tighten the stopper back. For more information on adjusting the bottom hinge of a metal-plastic door, see the story:

Video: adjusting the bottom hinge of a plastic door/window

More about balcony doors

In general, the plastic balcony door is adjusted in the sequence shown in the figure:

But here is a small mistake: according to pos. You must first adjust the width (i.e., lateral displacement and/or skew), and only after that adjust the sash height. However, this error is not fundamental, because The top hinge of the door does not adjust the height of the sash, from incorrect setting the height of the lower hinge will not jam it, so you can always return the settings to the original ones and start over. In advance, you can also watch a video about adjusting a metal-plastic balcony door with your own hands:

Video: adjusting the balcony door

Ventilation adjustment

In some models of ventilated balcony doors, you can also change the angle of the door leaf according to the time of year and local climatic conditions. To do this, the end of the short limiter lever is moved from position A on the long one (see figure on the right) to position B. This will reduce the tilt angle of the sash. By completely turning off the short lever, you can increase it, but it’s better not to: if you suddenly set it for ventilation, the slider of the long lever can fly out of the groove, and the sash will slam onto the floor. This work must be done with an assistant holding the sash, otherwise it may fall down in such a way that it will twist the bottom hinge and distort the profile of the frame. An option, if there is a homemade durable dryer on the balcony or some other reliable piece of hardware at the top, is to tie the door to it by the handle. Having completed the readjustment, check whether the door locks. If not, alas, you will have to return the lever system to its original state, because... groove B in the locking fittings does not have the required length. Lever-slider door tilt limiters are almost identical and can be interfaced with different types of locking fittings.

Additional features

Any metal-plastic door Optionally, it can also be equipped with an opening angle limiter so that the door handle does not hit the slope. The door swing limiter is always structurally combined with a pneumohydraulic brake on the closing speed of the door leaf (to prevent knocking on the frame).

The cheapest door swing limiter is made using a rack-and-pinion kinematic scheme, on the left in Fig. The swing angle of the door with such a limiter is not adjustable. To set the swing angle of the lever-hinged swing limiter, you need to unscrew nut A (on the right in the figure), set the desired angle by simply opening the door as far as you like, and tighten the nut back.

Locking fittings

The locking hardware of a plastic door is driven by the door handle, which most often jams or becomes loose. If the handle is jammed or it turns tightly, even if the profile bends, the handle needs to be disassembled and checked. To remove the handle, turn its internal decorative trim 90 degrees and unscrew the 2 mounting screws, pos. And in the figure:

After this, the handle can be separated and removed, pos. B. A square-section leash fits freely into either half of the handle; each of them should, with little effort, rotate 90 degrees from the middle position in 45-degree increments. That is, there are 5 handle positions in total, which is determined by the built-in ball lock. The handle halves are non-separable. If any of them, or both, rotate in your hands tightly or do not give in to pressure at all, put 2-3 drops of liquid machine oil into the sockets of the leash and try turning again. It sticks, it goes hard - the latch is broken or crumbled, the handle needs to be replaced with a new one.

General diagram of locking valves metal-plastic windows and doors are shown on the next page. rice.:

The lower branches of the reinforcement (highlighted in green) are placed only on windows, because under the door below there is a threshold along which people walk. To check the serviceability of the fittings, open the door, place the locking pendulum M vertically downwards with your finger and hold it - the locking mechanism is unlocked. Now we turn the handle down - all the pins, except one on the upper branch, should move simultaneously. If only the front branch works (on the running edge of the leaf), then the door will be locked, but in winter the malfunction will make itself felt with unavoidable drafts. In this case, you need to carefully inspect the transmission link from the front branch to the others (upper and rear), noted in Fig. letter L. It is often made of steel tape, which is visible through the slots of the crossbars. If the tape breaks, this is a warranty case. Any problems with warranty repairs? Can you work with your hands? A new transfer can be made from cash suitable material, but disassemble the locking system carefully: as soon as you clumsily disconnect the crossbars from the door profile, the entire system falls apart.

Let’s say everything is fine with constipation, but the sash is difficult to ventilate; This happens extremely rarely. We turn the handle up without releasing the pendulum - all the pins, except one on the upper branch, remain motionless, and the one that did not move when turning the handle down moves. Perhaps there will be 2 such pins, these are blockers for the sash tilt limiter. Repairing it yourself is sometimes possible after disassembling the fittings.

But most likely, all the mechanics and kinematics of the locking valve are intact; it breaks very rarely. The door will then function as it should, but it will be tight from a perfectly good new handle. If so, the fittings just need to be lubricated. Add a drop of liquid machine oil to the points shown in Fig. red arrows: into all hinges and on the crossbars under the trunnions through the slots in the crossbar strips. Then the trunnions and counter strips (catchers) are lightly lubricated with technical petroleum jelly, grease, grease, tsiatim, shahtol or any other grease. After lubrication, the fittings (again, without releasing the locking pendulum) are “driven” 3-4 times full speed, turning the handle all the way down and up.

Every day, the door on the balcony is subjected to repeated opening and closing cycles. It is not surprising that over time, even reliable fittings fail. In case of insufficient pressure to the frame, jamming of the sash or incorrect response to the position of the handle, do not rush to contact the service department. The listed problems are solved by simple adjustment of the plastic balcony door, for which you do not have to be a professional. It is enough to have a hex key on hand and the knowledge gained after reading this manual.

Most problems with plastic balcony doors can be fixed on your own.

Before we look at how to adjust plastic balcony doors, let's understand their design and operating principle. The main components here are: double-glazed windows, a metal-plastic frame and tilt-and-turn fittings. The latter is responsible for opening, closing and tilting the sash.

The design of plastic doors and windows is identical. The only difference is their size and location.

Balcony fittings are a belt mechanism located along the perimeter of the door leaf. Control is carried out by a handle, the rotation of which leads to the movement of cylindrical locks relative to the counter plates installed on the fixed frame. The canvas is attached to the frame with special hinges that can carry the load created by a heavy metal-plastic frame with double-glazed windows.

Tilt and turn fittings are manufactured in such a way as to ensure convenient operation and simple setup. products For this purpose, the mechanism is equipped with several adjusting bolts, which allow:

increase or decrease the pressure of the canvas to the frame;
lower or raise the sash;
adjust the horizontal position of the balcony door.

Location of adjustment elements for the plastic balcony door

Problems with plastic doors and methods for eliminating them

Standard problems are solved by point adjustment. Almost all manufacturers produce plastic balcony doors using the same technology, so the mechanism settings are identical.

Pressure adjustment for insufficient sound and heat insulation

Plastic door and window structures are characterized by a high level of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If the sound from the street calmly penetrates into the room, and in winter it is also accompanied by a cold air flow around the perimeter of the seal, the owners are sinning on the quality of the design by making claims to the manufacturing company. Usually the manufacturer has nothing to do with it, and the problem arises due to weak pressing of the sash to the frame.

The blade is pressed using special cylindrical eccentrics (trunnions). They are placed on the vertical ends - 4 on the front (from the handle side) and 2 on the back (from the hinge side). Another 1 eccentric is located on top, directly on the scissors, which hold the sash in tilt mode.

Depending on the hardware manufacturer appearance trunnions may vary slightly

Inside the trunnion there is a hole with six edges, which allows you to adjust the plastic balcony door with a hex key. If you turn the eccentric mostly towards the rubber seal, the pressure will be maximum, respectively, if with a smaller part - minimum. Difference between extreme positions the trunnion is 2 mm, so the effect is noticeable.

If desired, the eccentrics can be adjusted several times a year. In winter, set the maximum pressure, in summer the minimum, and in spring/autumn set the trunnion to the middle position.

Pressure adjustment depending on the season

The door to the balcony does not close well - it has sagged/sagged

A situation often arises when the door leaf rubs against the frame, which forces you to put more effort into closing the balcony. Adjusting the hinges (top or bottom) will help solve this problem.

The top hinge is equipped with an adjusting bolt, which can be reached by opening the sash 90°. Rotating the bolt clockwise causes the top edge of the blade to be pulled towards the loop. Accordingly, rotating the bolt counterclockwise causes the opposite effect - the upper edge moves away from the hinge.

Adjusting the hinge of a plastic balcony door is carried out with the same tool as adjusting the trunnions

The bottom hinge has the same screw to adjust the horizontal position of the bottom edge. In this case, adjustments can be made both from the outside and from the inside. In both cases, you need to rotate the screw with the door open and check its operation after every 2 turns.

The lower loop is most often adjusted from the inside, since the slope interferes with the outside

The lower hinge performs another function - it allows you to lower or raise the sash. A vertical screw located at the top of the mechanism is designed for this. To get to it, you must first remove the decorative trim. Rotating the screw clockwise raises the door leaf, and counterclockwise causes it to lower.

Vertical adjustment can be made when the balcony door is in locked position or tilt mode

In the process of adjusting the position of the sash, it is important to maintain balance, since if you eliminate a problem in one place, you can get it in another. It is advisable to immediately determine where exactly the canvas rubs against the frame and, based on this, adjust the upper or lower hinge.

Advice: it is enough to make 2 turns of the adjusting bolt to see the effect and understand in which direction to move next.

Opening the door in two positions at once

Incorrect adjustment of the fittings can lead to the opening of the balcony door in two modes at once - rotary and inclined. This can happen in the following cases.

In tilt mode, the lower corner of the sash is not fixed

If, when you turn the handle up, the door leaf not only reclines to the ventilation mode, but also opens completely, most likely the bottom of the sash has shifted towards the hinge. At the bottom of the end on the handle side there is a special lock that fixes the angle in tilt mode. For it to work correctly, the lock must fit into the mate located on the frame. If the angle is excessively shifted, locking does not occur, and the door opens in any position of the handle.

To fix the problem yourself, adjust the bottom hinge of the balcony door. Following the technology described in the previous section, slightly remove the door leaf from the hinge, thereby bringing the “problem” corner closer to the counterpart of the lock.

For normal operation of the lock, a couple of millimeters may be missing, so you should check the result after each turn

In the rotation mode, the door tilts at the same time

The problem is the sagging of the door leaf, in which the pressing eccentric located on the scissors does not reach the counterpart and does not fix the upper corner in the rotary mode. Therefore, when the handle is in a horizontal position, the sash not only rotates, but also tilts.

The solution to the problem is simple. It is enough to lift the door slightly when closed so that the upper eccentric fits into the groove of the mating part and fixes the angle. The procedure is performed by adjusting the lower loop.

To eliminate unintentional tilt, just make a few turns clockwise

Adjusting the PVC door handle

How to tighten a loose handle in 1 minute:

Self-service of plastic balcony doors

In order for the plastic balcony door to work properly for a long time, in addition to correct adjustment, periodically lubricate the seal and fittings. Manufacturers recommend lubricating these components at least once a year, before the start of the cold season.

Seal lubrication

The rubber seal can quickly dry out and crack if it is not lubricated in time. In addition, dry rubber often sticks to the plastic frame, resulting in unpleasant sound when opening the sash.

Without lubrication, the seal will have to be replaced every 2-3 years. Whereas with regular maintenance, its service life can be increased to 10 years.

The procedure is carried out using silicone lubricant, after first cleaning the rubber from dirt and debris. Liquid silicone is applied to a dry surface with a sponge or soft cloth. Some craftsmen use an aerosol for such purposes. However, in this case, the consumption will be an order of magnitude higher, since part of the material will be sprayed in vain, settling on furniture and interior items.

The best option for lubricating the rubber seal is a container with a foam tip.

Lubricating hardware

Sticking of the opening/closing mechanism is often caused by insufficient lubrication of the fittings. For such purposes, it is most convenient to use WD-40 lubricant, which has high penetrating ability. Lubricate all the locks located around the perimeter of the door leaf, including the main mechanism to which the handle is attached. Also pay attention to scissors and loops.

After lubricating, close the door and turn the handle several times to activate the lock mechanism. This will help the lubricant penetrate into remote corners.

The WD-40 container is equipped with a thin nozzle for spot lubrication in hard-to-reach places

Video: detailed instructions from an expert on PVC windows and doors

Self-adjustment and maintenance of a plastic balcony door is easy. To cope with the task, it is enough to understand where the adjustment and lubrication points are, and also have the desire to put the door structure in order.

The main and perhaps the only problem that a plastic door may force you to face is adjusting the hinges. As a rule, high-quality modern plastic structures with correct operation don't require any more hassle. But adjustment also causes difficulties for many people.

When installing a new plastic door, installers must immediately adjust it to the location, and for some time its operation does not cause any complaints. But under the influence of its own weight, the structure may sag and stop closing well.

How to adjust the products in this case or if other malfunctions occur? How to prevent some problems from occurring? Finally, how do you know when adjustments are needed? We will try to answer these questions.

First of all, I would like to advise purchasing products only from well-established companies and not skimping on quality. During installation, it is advisable to monitor the installation process to ensure that the initial adjustment of the plastic door has been carried out.

What to pay attention to when accepting work

Good performance of products and their durability depend both on the quality of the materials and fittings from which it is made, and on correct installation and adjustments.

When accepting work from installers, pay attention to the following points:

Before the installers arrive, watch the video - adjusting plastic doors - to have an idea of what they are required to do.

How to understand when it's time to adjust the door

Tight closing and strong drafts (see) are already obvious problems, which are impossible not to notice and are more difficult to eliminate than if problems are detected more early stage. Exist simple ways, allowing timely attention to the need for adjustment.

To determine if the pressure on the box is loose, take a piece of paper and press it between the box and the frame, closing the door tightly. Then pull the paper towards you and pull it out, noting the force with which you did it. Do this around the entire perimeter.

If the sheet is pulled out with the same force in any area, everything is in order. If somewhere this happens too easily, it means that the seal in that place is insufficient.

If the door begins to sag, you can find out about this by tracing the closed door around the perimeter with a simple pencil. The drawn lines should run parallel to the corresponding edges of the box. If they deviate from parallel, it's time to decide how to adjust.

Adjustment instructions

Once you have discovered that the door needs adjustment, try not to put it off for too long, otherwise it may require expensive repairs (see). A dented seal, a displaced sash, a tight turning of the handle - these are already clear signals that it is time to take action.

Below are instructions on how to adjust plastic doors.

Horizontal adjustment

Most often, it is necessary to eliminate sagging that occurs due to the door’s own weight:

Vertical adjustment

Sometimes you need to raise or lower the entire door evenly. To understand how to adjust a plastic door vertically with your own hands, you need to find an adjusting screw at the bottom end of the hinge, directed along the axis of the hinge.

For reference. On plastic entrance doors, the adjusting screw may be closed with a plug that needs to be removed. Setting up balcony door you need to do the same thing with your own hands.

A 5mm hex wrench is needed for adjustment. Rotating it clockwise will raise the door, counterclockwise will lower it.

Pressure adjustment

It should be changed regularly as the season changes - weaken for the summer and strengthen for the winter. This is done very simply, using the same tool - a hexagon.

So:

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in such a matter as adjusting plastic doors - the video on our website will help you understand this in more detail.

If you have more serious problems than those described here, call a specialist to your home - he will fix everything quickly and efficiently. You must call a specialist during the entire period of warranty service.