How the table top is attached to the pedestals. How to independently install a countertop in the kitchen. Preparing the countertop for installation

She began to enjoy particular popularity not so long ago. Previously, the countertop in the kitchen was a product that was installed at the factory: it was made for each lower cabinet separately. Today it is solid, so more and more questions are asked about how to properly attach it with your own hands?

Types of countertops

Divided into types:

Laminated;
Wooden;
Metallic;
Stone.

Laminated

A worktop in a kitchen of this type is a tile made of chipboard (particle board) or MDF (finely dispersed fraction), on which a high-strength laminate is installed by gluing.

The main advantages of the presented product are wide color choice, easy care, low price.

But there are drawbacks here: laminated surfaces do not withstand contact with hot dishes, piercing and cutting objects. The result of this interaction is the formation of both large and small scratches.

An example of a laminate kitchen countertop

Wooden

Wood countertops have gained their popularity for a long time. But they have big amount disadvantages:

Cuts and scratches quickly form on the surface;
Exposed to moisture;
Do not place hot dishes on a wooden surface.

Still, it will be a plus if wooden table top in harmony with the interior of the kitchen and its accessories: for example, with an apron embroidered independently according to the pattern.

Wood surface requires regular protective measures and careful maintenance. It must be treated with polishing compounds and coated with protective polymers. If the surface is completely damaged, then it should be cleaned and polished.

Wooden countertop in the kitchen

Metallic

This type of countertop is in high demand and it is increasing every day. The reason is that similar products:

Hygienic;
Convenient to use;
Aesthetic;
Cheap.

For metal surface hot objects are not terrible, it is not afraid of water, it does not wear out over time, and it is a pleasure to take care of it.

However, the metal countertop is not without its drawbacks - the formation of scratches and marks, so the steel surface must be constantly sanded and rubbed.

Metal protective surface

Of stone

For those who want to install a stone countertop on kitchen set do it yourself, I should know that she is not afraid:

Cuts;
Scratches;
High temperature.

It is these factors that guaranteed the leadership of stone countertops among all the types presented. When comparing marble and granite, it should be noted that the first stone looks more luxurious and beautiful, but granite is stronger and more durable.

You can install it in the kitchen with any of the presented types of materials. All of them comply with the necessary standards and requirements that such a product must comply with.

The countertop in the interior is not a separate element, but the completion of a kitchen unit, which may become unusable much earlier than it.

Stone protective surface in the interior of the kitchen

Self-installation of the countertop in the kitchen is a simple process, but it requires adherence to certain rules:

During installation, the edges should be processed after the cuts and thorough sealing;
The product should be transported with extreme care so as not to damage the structure, as it is very fragile;
You need to move the tabletop together, otherwise additional folds may form in weak points. Special attention devote to the measurement process, and not only the product itself, but also the cutouts in it, otherwise you will be forced to order a new one;
Smooth surfaces with a glossy sheen are especially fragile. This must be taken into account when installing and transporting the tabletop.

Required height

Before ordering, you need to know exactly the height with which work in the kitchen will be convenient and comfortable.

Typically, the height of the product is different for an individual kitchen operation. To determine a single solution, you must adhere to a number of recommendations:

With the growth of the hostess 150 cm. and less - suitable height from the floor is 76 cm. Such a product can be installed in apartments where wheelchair users live;
With a height of 160 -180 cm. - the required worktop height for kitchen furniture from the floor 88 –91 cm. it is this height that is standard in many furniture companies;
If a person's height is above 180 cm, then it is necessary to fasten the product, the height of which is up to 2 meters from the floor.

The level of the countertop depending on the height of the hostess

Installation process

Do-it-yourself countertop installation on a kitchen set is carried out according to the following plan:

Installation of tabletops from A to Z in video format

Skirting board installation process

After installing the countertop, be sure to start fixing the skirting board.

This is usually done with glue or self-tapping screws.

All we need:

Apply glue to the skirting board;
Apply it evenly to the gap between the countertop and the wall;
Connect the skirting boards with each other using a corner or invisible glue;
Wash baseboards and countertops after work.

It is important, after all the work, to seal the formed cracks with a sealant, then moisture will not get between the set and the wall.

Replacing an old countertop with a new one

Sometimes it is required to perform work on replacing an old product with a new one. This happens when the previous one has deteriorated or just got bored. To do everything efficiently, you need to know the main difficulties and subtleties of this process:

Dismantle the old product in such a way as not to harm the kitchen furniture;
The new fixture must be exactly the same size as the old countertop;
Cut down all unnecessary, and close the edges with end strips;
The new product must evenly and accurately rest on all the elements of the kitchen set, so they must be leveled;
Cut all holes with a jigsaw. Seal the edge to protect it from sudden water ingress and further swelling of the chipboard countertop.

Summing up

Installation process kitchen countertops- not such a difficult task. But a prerequisite for a high-quality completion of the work, it is necessary to comply with all the recommendations and conditions presented above.

All installation work can be carried out independently, since it does not require special experience or knowledge.

Corner kitchen is the most common furniture layout option in standard apartments Oh. Not because it's convenient, no. But because a wall with a length of 2.4-2.8 m is too short to place all the necessary kitchen furniture and appliances along it. We have to put cabinets along two walls, with the letter "G". Alas, getting the utensils out of the hard-to-reach “nooks and crannies” of corner cabinets, sitting on all fours, is still a pleasure. But the corner tabletop is quite rational decision... Let's talk about how to fit the tabletop parts neatly and securely.

Theoretically, the inner corner of the room where the "L" -shaped kitchen should be installed should be strictly straight, 90º. In practice, this is not always the case. And if in panel houses, which are assembled from ready-made elements as a designer, the design dimensions are observed quite accurately, then careless builders can put a brick partition crooked.

Often, arranging furniture with the letter "L" in a standard room is the only way to place the necessary equipment and utensils, leaving room for the table

If the corner tabletop is joined at 90º, but in the room plan right angle no, a gap will appear on one side of the kitchen between the furniture and the wall. The gap between the countertop (work surface) and the wall, not exceeding a few millimeters, can be closed with a plinth. But you can't hide a wide gap. You can, of course, install furniture not at a right angle (how to do this, see below), but this is not the best solution, and not for all types of countertops this is possible. It would be more correct to correct the shortcomings of the builders, if any, before installing the furniture.

This can be done by plastering the shortest of the walls in layers of various thicknesses. Or by performing leveling sheathing sheet material(GKL, OSB, etc.).

The presence of a strictly right angle at the installation site corner kitchen will help to avoid problems when ordering and installing furniture

Corner table top configuration

Bearing in mind that the overwhelming majority of our readers are the owners of standard apartments with rectangular kitchens, we will only cover the two most common corner countertop configurations:

Docking rectangular elements at right angles

A right angle is formed by two elements located strictly perpendicular to each other. This is the most economical way cutting material.

The joint of elements at right angles is simple in design and economical in terms of material consumption

For small kitchens the inner corner is a convenient place for placing a sink in it. It should be borne in mind that the sink should not cross the joint line of the parts. For corner installation, you should choose a sink that is not very deep, the hole for it should not intersect with the fasteners (clamps, see below). It is better to cut the hole itself only after the working surface is completely assembled and fixed.

The place in the corner is well suited for placing a sink, it can be placed anywhere on an element adjacent to the wall

On the part of the countertop that is facing the adjacent element, it is not recommended to place holes for built-in appliances closer than 30 cm from the joint.

Trapezoidal work surface with two joints

Another option for the configuration of the corner work surface is when between two rectangular elements another one is placed, trapezoidal, which forms an additional plane of the facade, deployed at an angle of 135º to the other two.

Corner table top with trapezoidal insert has two joints

However, it should be borne in mind that the standard laminated chipboard used for assembly kitchen tables, has a width of 60-62 cm. And the dimensions of the trapezoidal element are approximately equal to 90x90 cm, if you install a door not more than 40 cm on the cabinet located under it. With a smaller door, access to the cabinet will be very difficult. How to make such a trapezoidal segment? There are three solutions:

Purchase a ready-made element, some manufacturers of laminated tops offer such "trapeziums". But this solution has drawbacks: the choice of factory-made trapezoidal parts is limited in color and size, and they are not cheap.

If desired, you can find a ready-made trapezoidal part for corner table with two joints

Assemble a "trapezium" from elements made of a standard 60 cm wide slab. In this case, an additional joint will be obtained closer to the wall, which is ugly and inconvenient.

The trapezoidal segment is made of two 60 cm wide elements.A not very beautiful joint is clearly visible behind the sink

The option is similar to the previous one, but the difference is that the part of the "trapezium" farthest from the front (closest to the wall) is installed a few centimeters above the working surface. This avoids the joint on a flat plane, and the resulting shelf serves as a convenient place for placing detergents.

The corner trapezoidal element is made of a standard slab, and the wall part, which lacks the typical width of 60 cm, is raised

The trapezoidal corner element serves as a convenient place for placing a special sink, which has a corresponding shape.

Sink designed to be installed in a cabinet located under the trapezoidal element of the corner kitchen worktop

Corner top made of laminated chipboard

Laminated countertops (postforming, top) made of chipboard and pressurized with a wear-resistant laminated plastic laminate) are the cheapest and therefore the most popular. Top width - 60 or 62 cm.

Advice! If in the room it was still not possible to ensure the presence of a strictly right angle in the place where the joint of the table parts will be located, it is worth choosing a wider top, 62 cm. millimeters, which will allow you to attach the work surface close to the wall, if the discrepancy does not exceed 1.5 cm.

Another point to consider is that waterproof is plastic cover but not chipboard. If moisture gets into the place of the cut that has not been edged, it will penetrate into the chipboard, from which it will inevitably swell. To avoid such a nuisance, it is necessary to carefully cover the "bare" ends of the slab with a waterproof sealant, the most affordable is universal or sanitary construction silicone.

Note! It is better to use a colorless compound. All sawn ends should be sealed: the corner joint of the countertop, side ends, cutouts for the built-in sink and stove.

Can a corner countertop for a kitchen be assembled by a layman, a "teapot"? Yes, but it will take some persistence, neatness and availability. special tools.

Tools and materials for assembling a corner tabletop

In addition to pliers, screwdriver, 10mm spanner and hacksaw blade for metal, which are available in almost every home, you will need a drill with a set of conventional drills for metal and manual frezer with 8 mm end mill. And also a 35 mm Faustner drill, with which furniture manufacturers and assemblers make grooves on doors for installing hinges. A milling cutter and a drill can be rented, but a Milling cutter's drill (not cheap, by the way) will have to be bought or borrowed if anyone has one.

For those home craftsmen who are going to independently mount kitchen and built-in furniture, it makes sense to purchase an expensive Faustner drill with a diameter of 35 mm for personal use, the costs will pay off as a result

Of the materials, in addition to the postforming itself, you will need:

Docking aluminum strip (you can do without it, see below for this installation option), corresponding in shape to the direction of rotation, section and thickness of the laminated plate.

Types of aluminum strips for postforming connection. In our case, you need a corner one. The slats differ (right, left) depending on the rotation of the table parts

The bar must be selected in accordance with the postforming section, taking into account its thickness and the diameter of the roundings.

The cross-section of the plank must fully correspond to the profile of the tabletop.

Special screeds-clamps for connecting parts of the work surface, you will need 2 pcs for one joint of the table top. If the kitchen has a standard configuration, use 100 mm ties.

A clamp-type tie allows for a reliable connection of tabletops, it presses both elements with force against each other, excluding their subsequent horizontal displacement

Transparent sealant for insulating unprotected board ends from moisture.

Preparing the bottom row of furniture for the installation of the top

When exposing the bottom row of cabinets, several conditions must be met:

The junction of laminated boards should not "hang in the air". There must be a reliable support under it on both sides in the form of cabinet walls.

All cabinets should be positioned strictly horizontally in all planes, forming a single flat base of the work surface.

The cabinets must be connected to each other with special screw ties.

A method of attaching the countertop to the cabinets should be foreseen. Furniture manufacturers, who do not skimp on trifles, install strips (ribs) in front and behind the top surface of the cabinets, which not only give the furniture additional rigidity, but also serve to fix the tabletop. If there are no slats, you will have to screw them to the side walls of the cabinets steel corners through the holes in which it will be possible to screw the screws into the plate from below. By the way, the presence of stiffening ribs for cabinets with pull-out drawers is required.

The table top must be firmly attached to each of the lower kitchen cabinets... If the cabinets have stiffening ribs, fastening is carried out through them. In the absence of ribs, you will have to use steel corners, they should be installed in advance

Corner cabinets the bottom row should not touch each other. A gap is left between them and an insert 3-5 cm wide is installed. The same bar is placed on the front surface of the adjacent, perpendicularly located cabinet. If this is not done, the doors will not be able to open fully. If it was not possible to align the walls of the room in such a way as to obtain an angle of 90º in the plan, in the place of the gap covered by the insert, you can unfold the rows of cabinets to the desired angle by placing them close to both walls.

Corner cabinets should not touch, the gap between them is closed by an insert. In the photo, the insert is prepared, but not yet installed

Sawing laminated boards to size

Both parts of the table top should be marked and cut to size (lengthwise), if the cut was not made by the seller of the materials. The use of a docking bar will allow you to close small flaws and chips that may occur when sawing postforming, but still the plate must be cut as carefully as possible, with a circular saw. Theoretically, you can cut with a well-sharpened hacksaw with fine teeth and even a jigsaw, but in this case it is difficult to ensure the perpendicularity of the sawn end of the plate surface.

The resulting gap in the corner of the table elements is the result of the fact that the end of the plate is not sawn down perpendicular to its surface, while the bar is pulled to the unevenly cut end with screws

First, it is better to cut off that part of the countertop, which will adjoin the end to the inner corner of the walls, and only then, having temporarily set it in place, try on and cut off the second part. If the elements of the top cannot be joined at 90º, the end of the second half of the table will have to be cut at an angle. Therefore, it is especially important to measure seven times before cutting.

The photo shows the process of cutting a laminated board using circular saw, the guide for which is a ruler fixed with clamps. Please note that the postforming is laminated down, so there are fewer chips.

Drilling and milling screed grooves

The next stage is marking, drilling blind holes and milling grooves for placing tie-clamps. The indentations for the ties should be in the shape of a dumbbell. Two halves of the "dumbbell" fall on each of the abutting elements. Two ties must be placed on one joint.

The distance from the front and rear edges of the top to the axis of the "dumbbell" is chosen within the range of 70-150 mm, taking into account the design of the lower cabinets, the presence of reinforcing bars in them. The distance from the end of the countertop to the blind hole is 55 mm when using a 100 mm long tie.

Drilling and milling marking scheme for blind holes and grooves for screeds in elements of a corner tabletop

When determining the distance from the edge of the tabletop to the blind holes, it is advisable to take into account the shape of the docking aluminum strip. Most likely, it already has grooves for skipping the screed. They can be narrower or wider, there is no uniform standard for their location. If you can't get the tie screw through the hole in the strip, it's easy to make a groove elsewhere on the rather soft aluminum plate.

As a rule, there are grooves in the aluminum docking strip for the passage of the screed-clamps.

The depth of the recess for the screed should be at least 20 mm, but on a worktop with a thickness of 30 mm, you should not drill-mill deeper than 25 mm, and on a top with a thickness of 40 mm - up to 30 mm. It is not difficult to limit the depth of milling by setting the overhang of the cutter, but on the drill, you should install the limit ruler, which comes with all decent tools.

The drill stop will prevent you from drilling a blind hole deeper than intended

Screed groove ready

With the help of clamps, you can join the slabs at any angle. If we are talking about assembling a corner tabletop, deployed at an obtuse angle and including a narrow element where it is impossible to place ties at the same distance from the edge of the tabletop, the grooves for them are staggered.

With zip ties, you can collect tops complex shape, joining elements at any angle and length. On short corner element screeds are placed at random, at different distances from inner corner table

Assembling the corner countertop

The sequence of steps for assembling the corner tabletop should be as follows:

It is necessary to make sure that both parts of the postforming are ready for assembly: grooves for the screed are made, the ends of the plate opposite from the corner are machined.
We put it in place, but do not fasten the plate to the cabinets, which adjoins the wall in the corner with its end.
We treat the end of the second top element unprotected with plastic with a sealant.

On the unprotected plastic end of the board, it is necessary to apply silicone sealant and carefully distribute it over the entire surface, leaving no chance for moisture to penetrate the chipboard

We fasten the bar with screws to the sawn end of the plate. There is no need to wait for the silicone to set.
Apply silicone to the second part of the top. It is needed not for protection, but so that dirt does not get under the bar. We put the second slab in place by joining the two-piece table through the bar. In this case, you need to contrive to shove a clamp-clamp into the groove. Remove excess sealant.

Both parts of the table top are docked through the bar

We move under the table and wrench with effort we tighten the bolts of both ties.
We make sure that the joint is neat, the table elements are firmly connected, the top is in place. We fix the tabletop to the lower cabinets.
We make holes for built-in appliances. When marking the holes, make sure that they do not affect the fasteners - ties.
Cover the joint between the top and the walls with a plinth. Corner table top made of laminated chipboard with a joint closed with an aluminum strip, ready.

The connection of the working surface with a strip can be made not only at a right angle, but also at an obtuse angle. Up to 135º the joint looks neat enough

Laminate worktop connection without strip

The advantage of connecting the elements of the working surface with a strip is the ease of installation and preparation of the slab. The bar helps to hide small defects in the cut by covering small chips. Cons: the bar protrudes above the surface, it is not very beautiful and interferes with cleaning on the table.

Both parts of the kitchen top can be neatly connected without a strip, by making “eurozapil” on both joined laminated plates. One slab is machined, the other - a longitudinal edge. The peculiarity of the "eurozapil" is that the straight line almost along the entire length of the cut at the point where the edge of the slab is rounded off radially by an angle of ½ of the angle of joining of the elements.

Eurozapil provides for the processing of both abutting elements

Aesthetically, the corner tabletops, connected by euroform, look much better than the joint closed by the overhead strip. And it is more convenient to use a smooth, without protrusions, work surface. The seam is practically invisible, it can only be given by the difference in the pattern of the laminate.

On a not very light worktop with a homogeneous texture, the seam at the junction of two elements with the Euro saw is practically invisible

On the corner top with a linear pattern, it will be noticeable where the junction of the elements passes

Eurozapil is very difficult to make on site, it can only be done by a highly qualified carpenter with the help of professional tool... It is better to order the execution of euro-sawing of abutting plates at a good production facility, where the appropriate equipment is available.

The assembly of a corner tabletop with an eurofilm is carried out using the same technology as with a bar: using clamps. The difference is that when joining the elements, both ends are coated with a sealant and after connecting them, they very carefully monitor that the surfaces of both parts of the table are strictly in the same level until the tie nuts are tightened. Mounting a top with a Euro saw is more difficult and more expensive than connecting through a bar. With the help of a connection made according to the eurosaw technology, it is possible to join elements without a seam at almost any angle.

The diagram clearly shows the difference in the principle of joining the elements of corner tabletops using a strip and a euro saw

Corner table top made of wood

Wood is a material that lends itself well to processing and gluing. The work surface that is completely assembled in the workshop will be stronger, and the corner joint is made on dowels and glued under the press. However, if the wooden countertop is large, it can be difficult to ship to assembled... In this case, the assembly can also be done on site. On the already mentioned dowels or the familiar clamps.

High-quality wood glue is applied to the joint. For those who decide to independently assemble a corner tabletop made of wood, we recommend ordering completely ready-made elements, precisely sawn and trimmed to size already in production.

The sawing and joint of the elements of the wooden corner tabletop is made at right angles, the junction is noticeable due to the perpendicular orientation of the tree structure

The elements are sawn and docked diagonally. With this design, the consumption of material increases, but the wood pattern fits well

Corner top made of stone or tiles

Stone, natural or artificial, is a very expensive but effective material for kitchen countertops. It is supplied in large-format slabs, from which the elements of the required configuration are cut out in production. Technological restrictions on the shape of the table are minimal - pay money and almost any whim of yours will be fulfilled. Complex shaped worktops are easier to manufacture from artificial stone it is almost impossible to notice the glued and polished joint on the top.

A stone corner countertop for the kitchen, the price of which is very high, and the manufacturing technology is complex, should be installed only by specialists, and the maximum possible part of the processing is carried out on stationary equipment in the workshop.

Rounded top made of artificial acrylic stone. There are joints on it, but they are completely invisible.

The tile work surface is a beautiful, but complex and expensive technical solution. Therefore, it is rarely found in domestic kitchens. How to make a tile countertop for the kitchen is a topic for a separate article. We will only note the crucial importance of having a perfect right angle between two walls in a room. The slightest inaccuracy - and tile seams the mistakes made will be immediately visible.

In order for the seams on the corner tile countertop to converge, the lower cabinets must be set strictly at right angles. Accordingly, an exact angle of 90º must be observed between perpendicular walls.

The methods of joining laminated chipboards described by us are the most common due to the simplicity of execution, it is possible to assemble a table using similar techniques home master... However, there are advanced professional technologies that allow you to achieve the ideal quality of the joint, high joint strength.

Video: joining laminated chipboard using GetaCore technology

In conclusion, we note that, in our opinion, for self-assembly kitchen furniture should be taken only if you have a great desire, free time and at least basic skills in carpentry. If you do not possess any of the above, it would be more correct to entrust the installation of the kitchen to professionals.

It all started with the fact that we waited for the keys in our apartment and moved. They took the kitchen with us, since the kitchen moved with us for the 3rd time already, and the kitchen is not expensive enough, this is clearly its last move.
In the previous apartments, the kitchen layout was different and each time they put a new countertop, but they hired craftsmen, here I decided to find out where my hands are growing from and do everything myself.

The total budget is 50 thousand rubles.

I bought two worktop boards + 3 packages of laminate (on), sealant 3 tubes with glue, edges (soft strip for the cut corner and for the end and joint - hard), plinth for the worktop. Everything took about 14,000 rubles.
The first thing I did was when ordering, I asked to cut off 210 cm each (because she would not fit into the elevator, and I didn't really want to drag it all to the 12th floor), both sides turned out to be 190, but I decided to leave stock.

Attached and measured the length.

I measured the line of the joint (I measured it this way, since the corner of the wall is not even, and the kitchen itself is at right angles and otherwise it would be on the left (the refrigerator would not have a frail gap)

I checked how the joint bar will fit

It is imperative to saw with a jigsaw from the "rough side" and scrub the place of sawing from the "white side" masking tape to minimize lamination chips

Stock up on blades, it took me one and a half packs (9 blades) for all this work, the smaller the teeth, the less chance of lamination chips

The worktops are fitted, I will say right away that I attached them to the kitchen at the very end, because I had to move them all the time to work

All sections were thickly coated with silicone

Next, I marked the place of the saw cuts under the hob, drilled the corners (do not press on the drill, otherwise you will chop off a lot of excess) to turn the jigsaw and it is important to saw the last one that drank, which is closer to larger area countertops, otherwise thin edges may not support the weight and break.

The edge fits well and relatively evenly, everything is coated with silicone

I thought the most difficult thing was to cut holes for a sink and a cooking stove, but no, the most difficult thing was ahead

Processing the second part of the countertop

And here is the most interesting thing, unfortunately I did not do the process of gluing the edge itself, but there you just put the iron on medium heat (synthetics), put on a glove (with the side where there are no rubber pads), warm the edge and smooth it with your gloved hand. On this process, I spent almost the entire edge, tk. when processing corners (removing excess) chips were obtained.

I removed the excess with such a file, holding it almost parallel to the table top, with the sharp side, sharply cut off the excess at an acute angle. then processing the corners of the edge with it.

The micron rounding of the edge is (almost) cut off with a mounting knife (it is very important that the blade is new) on this, then I screwed up the penultimate strip.

I went to work with wax crayon for the laminate, smear the corners several times and rub it with the same glove

The laminate on the apron is in business, start from the corner and it is important to understand that, unlike the floor, it is set on glue and the seams are coated with silicone

Solved the problem of lining the end joints on the glued laminate with a cut of the "lock", because Someone will be walking on it anyway, but it is almost unrealistic to knock down the laminate that was "sucked" on the glue, on two boards the covering just got lost

Bottom line - along the edge of the laminate will be run decorative corner(not bought yet)

Installing a kitchen unit: how to fix a countertop in the kitchen

When purchasing a kitchen in a store, you will surely face the question of who will install it? There are two answers: the first is hired workers from the store, the second is with their own on their own... And remembering the saying "if you want to do well, then do it yourself" it turns out that it is better to take the initiative into your own hands. Our article will help you solve this problem.

Everything is in your hands: you just have to want

Installing a kitchen unit

There is nothing complicated in the assembly and installation of kitchen cabinets, for each product there is detailed instructions, where everything is thoroughly described. However, before we get started, let's pick up all necessary tool, with the help of which the work will be performed.

Tool

A puncher is required for hanging cabinets if you have concrete walls.
The drill is suitable for brick walls... It can also be used instead of a screwdriver.
Screwdriver - option for wooden houses... One is enough to collect all the kitchen cabinets and screw the screws into the wooden walls.
Roulette and construction square. Without measuring instruments, no repairs will be completed.
Building level.
You will need a jigsaw for cutouts in the countertop for the sink and hob.

The jigsaw is used not only for plastic countertops, but also for acrylic surfaces.

This is the most basic tool, without which neither the assembly nor the installation process of the kitchen set will work.

Supporting materials

Another section that needs to be studied before starting work, it contains all Additional materials which are required during the installation of the headset.

Silicone sealant... For convenience, purchased with a special pistol. It is necessary for processing the end of the countertop, in the places of cutouts for the sink.

The sealant can be applied both to the countertop and to the sink

Inter-section screeds... Fixing two pedestals together is much more reliable than ordinary self-tapping screws.
Silicone door bumpers... Reduce the amount of noise when the door contacts the cabinet.
Self-adhesive plugs... With their help, it is easy to hide the caps of screws and bolts on the front parts.

Note! The price of all the above materials fluctuates around 5 rubles per piece, except for the sealant. Therefore, saving, in this case, is meaningless, and functionality is lost.

Assembling the headset

Experts establish kitchen cabinets at will, someone starts to hang the upper cabinets, for someone it is easier to install the base. But this is already a personal preference for everyone, so you should not be guided by someone. The main thing is to start.

Bottom (base) cabinets

Spread the legs as close to the corners as possible. The load will be on these parts.
Hang the doors at the last moment, initially - collect all the cases.
Fix all the pedestals together and level them up.

Advice! If you started with lower cabinets, then it is better to install the countertop after installation. top cabinets... So you protect yourself from unnecessary defects and accidental damage.

Top (top) cabinets

It is advisable to mount on special hangers that are attached to a metal strip. These cabinets are easier to hang and remove.
Install doors and shelves only after the cabinet is securely attached to the wall.
Minimum distance between table top and bottom wall cabinets 550 mm.

However, you can fix it as you like, it all depends on your height. The only thing worth paying attention to is the cabinet above the hob or stove - a very high temperature will adversely affect its condition.

But, this is only as regards the assembly of the headset, but there is another important question, how is the countertop fixed in the kitchen?

Material selection

Of course, the choice of materials for the countertop is not abundant, however, even three options can confuse and make you think.

Plastic table top

What is plastic? These are several layers of paper that are glued together. The thickness of such a product rarely exceeds 1 mm; it is mainly used for kitchens from 0.6 mm.

For your information! If you have chosen plastic product, be careful - there is a surface with a thickness of 0.3 mm, which is considered the most fragile and "delicate".

The basis for a plastic kitchen countertop is an ordinary chipboard: cheap and short-lived. But that was a few years ago, today consumers prefer moisture-resistant chipboard or MDF. They are slightly more expensive, but more reliable in operation.

Easy to install. This does not require any special tools.
Suitable for use with a jigsaw: easy to cut for the sink.
Low cost.

Can be easily damaged. The surface is afraid of various cuts, contacts with heavy and sharp objects.
Chips and cracks will not be repaired.
Not resistant to high temperatures.

Let's take a closer look at attaching a countertop to a kitchen unit.

Installing the countertop

Before starting the installation, unpack the countertop and inspect it for chips and cracks.
If everything is clean, then the next step is to check the level of the lower cabinets. It must be positioned correctly.
Holes are drilled in special ties located in each pedestal under the very top.
Putting the worktop on the pedestals, mark, if necessary, where the sink and hob will be located. Do not fix it yet.
Take the jigsaw in your hands and cut the holes so that neither the cabinets nor the countertop will be damaged.
Treat the sawn-off ends with a sealant, and let it dry for 20-30 minutes.
Position the countertop as needed.
Tighten the self-tapping screws through the ties in the pedestals.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in four pieces per cabinet: two are located on the front brace, two on the back

Note! If the base of your kitchen unit is leveled, and the worktop itself is curved, just press it down firmly and tighten the self-tapping screw. Particleboard products easily buckle due to improper storage or ambient temperature.

Acrylic table top

Reliable and durable. Any chip or crack is removed with a grinding tool.
Not afraid of temperature extremes and high humidity.
The widest choice of shades.

Cons of acrylic products:

It cannot be processed at home; this requires a special tool.

The restoration requires a sander

Installing an acrylic tabletop

Since acrylic is not glued with your own hands at home, for this you need to contact a furniture organization and call a measurer.

After that, the specialist creates a project on which he outlines the kitchen set and the location of electrical appliances and sinks. Also notes where will be located wooden blocks, through which, in fact, the fasteners are carried out.

For your information! If you have L-shaped kitchen, then you should also order the installation of the table top in the organization. This is due to the fact that it will be necessary to glue and sand the surface, and this requires a tool.

Drill the screeds ahead of time in the places where the wood will be on the acrylic countertop.
Put ready product the way it should lie, according to the project.
Screw in the self-tapping screws.

Quartz countertop

Of the shortcomings, only heavy weight and the price, but when you know her positive traits, then it immediately becomes clear why such a cost:

Impossible to damage. The surface of the material is hard natural stone so an accidental blow from a knife or saucepan will not leave a trace.
Hot pans are also not dangerous.
The color is identical to natural materials.

Installing a quartz countertop

This section is similar to the installation of an acrylic tabletop, because the manufacturing technology for these materials is similar. Therefore, in the case of an indirect kitchen, you should contact the specialists who will glue the surfaces.

Porcelain stoneware countertop that weighs several tens of kilograms

Acrylic top can be of two types: with a matte surface and with a glossy surface

Plastic is still a popular material

Bar counter installation

Often, the countertop in the kitchen is used as a bar, on which, as a rule, they have breakfast, and, in fact, have dinner.

This requires a special mount, which will allow you to securely fix the product.

V furniture store you should purchase steel pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. It is better to ask that you cut it off immediately to size, then the edges will be even, without burrs.
You will also need bar fixing elements. One will be attached to the table top, the second to the floor.

Note! If the width of the table is no more than 400 mm, then one leg is sufficient. If more than 400 mm, then purchase 2 sets.

Fastening the kitchen countertop as a bar counter is as follows:

First of all, fasteners are fixed to the tabletop.

Bar legs attach at corners to ensure table stability

Pipes are inserted into them and aligned.
The lower fasteners are marked on the floor.
The floor is drilled, if it is not wooden, and the fasteners are fixed with the help of dowel nails.

Features of the workflow

It may seem to you that it is quite easy to install a countertop, but, nevertheless, you should not be so frivolous about this issue.

If you install a tabletop on furniture corners, you should do it like this: step back 1-2 mm from the top edge of the cabinet and mark the center of the corner. After that, fix the corner with a self-tapping screw. 4 corners are enough for one meter.
For chipboard, be sure to use a kitchen sealant, otherwise after a few weeks of use, the plastic surface (near the sink) may swell.
It is advisable to set the kitchen set according to the level. Try to avoid sagging your wooden countertop.
When choosing hardware, stop at stainless materials, this will help extend the life of the headset as a whole.

Conclusion

Now you can surely be able to independently assemble the kitchen set and fix the countertop on it. If you want to look at the whole process and make sure that everything is understood correctly, then you can use the following: how to fix the countertop in the kitchen. We hope that everything will work out for you.

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Often there is a need to replace the countertop in the kitchen and the reasons for this can be very different - from the banal destruction of the old coating during operation, to the desire to update the interior of the headset. Next, we will consider step by step the procedure for updating the old countertop.

Selection of material at the appropriate price

Of course, it starts with her choice. The most popular are:

Wooden and laminated - differs with democratic prices and a huge selection color solutions and textures. In addition, it is not difficult to assemble it yourself without the involvement of specialists.
Stone is an almost timeless option. Convenient to use, perfectly withstands contact with water, hot and sharp objects. However, not all headsets are able to withstand its weight, about 50 kg for every 1 m.
The glass is beautiful, stylish, durable and hygienic. But it is unlikely that you will be able to install it yourself.

Let's analyze the process of installing MDF countertops with our own hands at home.

Replacing itself in several stages:

dismantling the old countertop;
leveling of cabinets in the lower row;
cut to size;
processing of slices;
sink insert and hob;
installation of a plinth.

Preparing to replace the countertop with your own hands

The table top is sawn off according to the specified dimensions. Treat its ends with silicone sealant.
The end aluminum strips are screwed on.
Such strips are suitable if the cut is even, but sometimes there is a desire to make a radius edge, in this case you will have to cut it. At home, you can glue melamine edging

Melamine (paper) edgebanding belongs to the lowest cost segment. Many complain about its quality, but if the treated surface is outside the zone of direct contact with water and the owners of the kitchen are neat users, then the operational period of such an edge is very impressive.

Chipboard edge installation: not for folding table

Glue is applied to the cut surface and spread over the entire area with a thin spatula. Apply an edge and press down carefully.
Heating construction hairdryer, smoothed with a wooden block wrapped in fabric.
After drying, cut off the excess edges with a construction knife.
In corner versions, the worktops are between the corner strip. When there is not enough length for the connection, use a T-bar.

Installing a sink in a kitchen set

To reduce the likelihood of chips, masking tape is glued. If the sink is oval or round shape, it is applied to the planned section of the tie-in and outlined. Then an inner line is drawn along which the sawing is carried out. Usually the inner radius is less than the main one by 1.5 cm, making the application easier by making a stencil. A fragment of 1.5 cm is cut from a thin strip and, applying it to the already marked contour, another one is drawn. If washing rectangular section the process is greatly facilitated.
Holes are drilled through which a jigsaw file is inserted and cut out.
The surface of the saw cut is treated with silicone sealants - even if water somehow leaks out, the tabletop will not swell.
A low silicone rim is applied along the perimeter of the hole, now the saw cut is probably protected from moisture.
A mixer is mounted in the sink with attached hoses for supplying water, and installed in a prepared place. Snap connections are latched.

Washing installation diagram

The instructions for the hob usually indicate the dimensions required for the installation hole. Otherwise, the process is similar to installing a sink.

When planning the location of the hob, it is necessary to be guided by the recommendations of the manufacturers and the norms of SNiP. Observe the distance from the stove to the sink, up to gas meter, water heater.

They are screwed from the underside with self-tapping screws to the tsars, if necessary, use plastic corners.

Installation of skirting boards as part of a renovation

The plinth is installed at the junction of the wall and countertop. Its presence not only minimizes the likelihood of moisture getting into the rear cut, which is most often not protected, but also significantly improves the overall appearance.

The skirting board consists of 2 parts, a mounting strip and a decorative edge. Separately, end caps and connecting corners are purchased, which are only for right angles. The number of fittings is calculated depending on the configuration of the headset and its location. If the worktop is adjacent to three walls, you need 2 corners and 2 plugs.

Installation order:

Attach the mounting strips to the wall with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 15 cm, sealing for reliability.
Insert central decorative strip through lock connection thorn groove. Difficulties on this stage does not arise, it is easily mounted, it is enough to press with your fingers, gradually moving along the entire length.
Install the connecting corners.
Insert the remaining strips and put on the plugs.

A team of professionals will cope with the installation of a new coating in a few hours, but on their own, with a little effort and patience, you can cope with this task.