Floor grout, how to choose or how to make and apply on the seams between the tiles yourself. Grouting ceramic tiles: step by step instructions and tips

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From this article you will learn how and with what you need to grind the tile.

In this case, we will use grout on cement base... It also exists on the basis of epoxy resin.

So, we have (or on the walls, there is no difference). We need to erase it. Where to begin?

Preparing tiles before grouting.

Before grouting, first of all, you need to clean the joints from the remnants of glue and wash the laid tiles.

We take a construction knife and clean the remaining glue from the seams.

You need to clean it very carefully, because there is a high probability of chipping off a piece of tile if you sharply hit the corner with a knife.

It is not necessary to go too far into the seam with a knife, it is enough to clean the upper 3-4 mm of the end of the tile.

The next step is a vacuum cleaner. You need to collect all the debris from the seams.

Here's what you should get.

Then you need to thoroughly wash all tiles from dust and glue residues.

Immediately after washing, the places that you missed when cleaning the tiles will clearly appear. There is no escape from this :) It will be necessary to clean it up.

Tile Grout Tool.

We need a rubber spatula, a sponge to wash the grout, a bucket of water (two can be used), a container in which the grout will be kneaded and a spatula (or a small mixer on a screwdriver) to stir it.

We mainly use Mapei Ultracolor Plus for grouting tiles. We love working with her, so we have been using her for many years. But this is just our personal preference, you can use what you like (or whatever you get from the hardware store).

Mixing grout.

You need to pour very little water into the container - 150-200 ml, otherwise you risk mixing as much grout as you simply do not have time to physically work ( ready mix begins to freeze in 35-40 minutes, and this is not so much, believe me).

The finished grout should be about twice the volume of water used.

Stir until smooth, similar in consistency to thick sour cream. We are waiting for 5-7 minutes, let the powder be saturated with water and mix again. Done.

Tile grout.

Using a rubber spatula, rub the mixture along the seam.

Then remove the excess grout with the same spatula.

Along straight seams, remove the grout holding a spatula across the seam, and at the intersections - at an angle of 45 ° to the seams (diagonally). Otherwise, you will choose a lot of unnecessary things.

After the grout begins to dry, you need to wash its remains from the tile.

We wet the washcloth, squeeze it out and wash the tile in a circular motion. You do not need to press on the washcloth or run it along the seams - you, again, will choose a lot of unnecessary things.

Remember that you only have 35-45 minutes from stirring to hardening. It will be much more difficult to clean after an hour (this only applies to Mapei Ultracolor Plus, grout from other manufacturers may have different characteristics).

The water in the bucket gets dirty very quickly, so you have to change it several times in order to get this result.

The finished end result is even and smooth seams. The grout lies just below the plane of the tile (not lower than 1mm).

You don't need to make the seams very deep, it doesn't look very nice.

They say "To start is half the battle." But, as practice shows, the final stage of the work is no less important. This also applies to the process of laying tiles. Rather, its final stage - grouting. Well-done work can hide some defects in the cladding, while poor grouting ceramic tiles spoils the whole look of perfect styling.

The technique described in the article is suitable for both wall and floor ceramic tiles.

Types of grouting materials

In the modern construction market, there are two main types of grouting materials. The first is based on cement, the second is based on epoxy resin.

Cement based grouts are dry mixes. They are diluted in most cases with water, less often with latex. There are already completely ready-made grouts on sale, but their cost is significantly different. In addition to cement, the mixture contains various additives, the presence and ratio of which forms the difference between grouting.

All available cement-based compounds intended for grouting ceramic tiles are divided into 3 classes:

dry hardener;
industrial cement;
latex mixture.

Epoxy grout includes a hardener in addition to epoxy resin. The mixture of the components of this building material makes it possible to form strong joints between the ceramic tiles, resistant to impacts and the action of various chemicals.

This type of grout is used, as a rule, in commercial premises and in enterprises. First, epoxies are more expensive than cement ones. Secondly, they have a more viscous consistency, which causes certain difficulties during work: they use epoxy grout if the thickness of the laid tiles is more than 12 mm, and the width of the joints is wider than 6 mm, otherwise the grout will simply not be able to seep into narrow joints.

Width of joints between tiles

The width of the tile joints ~ 3 mm is one of the most popular

The width of the joints between the tiles to be laid depends on the preferences of the stacker: some like wider joints, some narrower. Strictly established sizes no. There are only recommendations that allow you to choose "your" option. So, for example, when laying tiles with a side size of 10 - 60 centimeters, it is recommended to make seams of the order of 3 mm. But if the tile has irregular shape, to which you do not want to draw attention, it is better to leave the gaps wider, but not more than 12 mm.

More than 12 mm of grouting joints should not be done, since with an increase in size, their strength proportionally decreases. Cracking of such a seam can be avoided by adding coarser sand to the grout and strict adherence to the proportion between the diluted mixture and water (the more water, the less durable the seam will be).

Some are afraid that their seams will be wide and make another mistake: leave such a small distance between the tiles that it is then difficult to fill them properly with grout. As a result, water seeps into the cladding through the seams.

Matching grout color to tiles

As a rule, the color of the grout is matched to the color of the tile. There may be some deviation in tonality - a tone lighter / darker, but designers do not recommend making a sharp contrast. Of course, sometimes they do this, but this is a rather bold decision.

If it is necessary to choose the color of the grout for the tiles laid on the floor, then you should not give preference to the white composition, even if the tile itself white... Within a few days, the seams will turn gray, and with a dirty tint. It is for this reason that a light gray tint grout is selected for white floor tiles.

Grouting process

And now directly about grouting. This process consists of several stages and requires careful preparation.

1. Preparation of tools and materials

So what can be useful to us?

Materials:

grout
sealant

Tools:

rubber scraper or roller
paint roller or paintbrush
jointing
wooden stick with a sharpened end
grater
bucket
sponge
piece of cloth
plywood (when laying tiles on the floor)

Funds should not be ignored individual protection... Among them are rubber gloves and goggles. If you have to work with a trowel mixture containing cement, then a respirator will not be superfluous.

2. Preparation of grout solution

Grout is usually prepared in a dry and clean bucket:

Initially, about 70-75 percent of the required volume of liquid is poured into the container.
The dry ingredient is gradually added to the liquid (water or liquid latex additive as directed).
After all the dry ingredients have been added and thoroughly mixed, the remaining liquid is added in small portions.

You should constantly check the consistency of the resulting mass: the liquid can go to the preparation of grout slightly less than indicated in the instructions.

When the grout is ready, it must be allowed to brew. Enough 10 minutes. During this period of time, the lumps remaining dry will have time to soak in the liquid.

After such "infusion" the grout should be mixed again, but so that it becomes completely homogeneous (homogeneous).

3. Applying grout to joints

You can apply grout with both a large and a small spatula, the main thing is that the grout fits tightly into all the seams

Before starting to grout, you need to make sure that the adhesive on which the tiles were laid is completely dry. It is imperative to remove debris from the seams.

Don't forget about the dividers between the tiles., which, despite the assurances of some manufacturers can be left in the seams, it is still better to eliminate. The fact is that by rubbing the seams over such "crosses", you risk ruining the whole appearance its finish: the grout over the spacers will lay down more thinly, acquiring a slightly different color after drying.

Glazed tiles can be grilled immediately, otherwise the top and side of the tile must be sprayed with water.

The trowel is applied to the tile surface with a trowel, then spread with a trowel, as if pressing into the seams, and not covering them. The denser the spaces are filled, the stronger they will be.

Before starting grouting large area tiles, you should find out how quickly this composition dries. To do this, grout is first applied to small area... Perhaps, you will have to continue doing everything in pieces of 1-2 m 2, or maybe it will turn out to process at once in 9-10 m 2.

4. Removing excess grout from tiles

Remove excess grout with a sponge or soft cloth

After filling the joints, remove excess grout with a trowel. This so called dry removal... After it, the grout is allowed to grab and the excess is wet removed. This procedure requires a bucket of water and a sponge (preferably with rounded edges).

At the first stage, use a sponge to remove all excess grout from the cladding surface. This is done with gentle circular motions, rinsing the sponge from particles of sand and cement if necessary and squeezing well.
At the second stage, it is necessary to check all grouting joints, whether they are even. If a defect is found somewhere, you can fix it with a jointing, a wooden stick with a sharpened end. Trim the edges of the seams with the same sponge, gently moving it along the seam, removing the protrusions and filling the grooves with grout. As a result, all seams should have the same shape and depth.
Then the final cleaning of the lining from the grout residues is done: with a clean and wrung out sponge, slowly and smoothly draw along the seam on one side, then on the other. This is how the entire surface of the laid tiles is treated. Do not forget to rinse the sponge and make sure that it does not pull the grout along with it. If this happens, the joints are not well aligned, there is a lot of grout in them, which must be removed. After wet cleaning the seams must be allowed to dry (15 minutes), and then remove the plaque from the grout on the tiles with gauze or a soft cloth.

5. Final treatment of joints with sealant

A thin, neat layer of clear sealant will keep your walls and floor dry

Tile joint sealants include silicone, varnish or acrylic to prevent excessive water absorption and staining of the finish. Allow the tiles and grout to dry thoroughly before applying the sealant (this takes several days, weeks).

The sealant is applied to the seamsstrictly following the instructions of the manufacturer of this material. Convenient to use when performing work paint roller (in the case of covering both joints and tiles) or with a small brush (in the case of sealing only joints). Often, small tubes of sealant are sold with a brush at the end (as shown).

Careful maintenance of the tiles includes regular coating with a sealant at intervals of 2-2.5 years. When processing only the seams, it is necessary to remove the sealant that has fallen on the tile immediately.

The finishing touch when laying tiles on a wall or floor is the application of grout to the joints between the tiles. Even if you opt for the exquisite premium cladding, best glue, make a professional styling, but it is wrong to do the troweling stage, then the coating will be damaged. Therefore, it is important to know how to properly grind the seams on the tiles so that the finish will delight with beauty and durability.

When decorating walls and floors with tiles, how the cladding will look depends largely on how to cover the seams between the tiles. This is no less important stage than styling ceramic coating... The hygiene, service life and beauty of the appearance of the tile also depend on the correctness of the work performed on grouting tile joints.

Before figuring out how to properly trowel the tiles, you need to find out why this procedure is generally needed.

Seams are the distance at the junction between tiles. The installation technology provides for certain norms and standards that should be observed during the installation process facing material... On average, from 2 to 5 mm is left between the fragments, depending on the size of the tile - the larger it is, the wider the seam.

After the wall cladding, a shrinkage process takes place, as a result of which the tile may shift. The seams allow for the most inconspicuous shrinkage, while providing space for little movement.
Grout protects the finish in a wet visit from excess moisture, otherwise dirt, mold and mildew will appear in the joints without grout.
The seams on the bathroom tiles allow the walls and flooring "Breathe" thanks to these cracks.
The joints are sealed to improve adhesion between the cladding elements.
They have a decorative function. Beautiful, neat joints look very aesthetically pleasing, hiding glue residues in the seams, as well as minor chips, notches and other defects along the edges of the tiles.
Rub the seams well if you want the floor or wall cladding to last a long time.

As a rule, the consumption of grouting material is indicated on the package, the required amount of grout can also be calculated using the following formula:

Consumption (kg / m²) \u003d (A + B) / (A x B) x H x D x Coef. x 10%,
where: A, B - tile proportions (width, length) in mm; H is the thickness of the tile (seam) in mm; D is the average joint width in mm; Coef. - coefficient of grout density (1.5 - 1.8).

Therefore, before applying grout to the tiles, calculate how much material is required for the entire surface, and buy the required amount with a small margin.

What types of trowels are there?

In most cases, for convenience, the gaps between the tiles are closed ready-made formulations from manufacturers. Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles can be done with a mixture of one of the following types:

Cement. Contains fine sand and various polymer additives. The powdery composition is diluted with latex or water before use. After dissolution, it is used for no more than two hours. Great for seams 5 mm and larger. It is characterized by ease of use and low cost. It is not recommended to apply on enamelled tiles, as the sand can scratch the surface. Degrades from direct exposure to water and chemicals.
Epoxy. The composition of only two components - resin and hardener, however, it is possible to add other substances - sand, glitter, Portland cement. Differs in resistance to any external influences, both mechanical, temperature, and chemical. Price epoxy grout noticeably higher, and the application process is more complicated. The mixed components are suitable for use in just 10-20 minutes. It is best used for finishing swimming pools or surfaces requiring transparent seams with lighting (design solutions).
Polyurethane. It is based on water mixtures of polyurethane resins. This solution is immediately sold ready to use. Allows adding decorative elements... Its characteristics are similar to epoxy, but the application process is simpler, but the cost is even higher, so it is better to use it only for the bathroom floor. Does not like constant direct contact with water, has a restriction on the width of the joints - no more than 6 mm.
Special. These compounds are used only according to the situation, for example, in rooms with high temperatures (baths, stoves, fireplaces) or an aggressive chemical environment (laboratories, technical shops). Differs in high price and labor intensity of the troweling process. Mixes based on chamotte clay, furan resin and heat-resistant cement are popular.

A high-quality grout should contain the following components:

cement;
impregnation;
latex;
varnishes.

These ingredients give the grout strength and elasticity. And in the pastes used for grouting joints in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, antifungal and antimicrobial substances must be present.

How to choose a grout?

In order to qualitatively wipe the seam joints on the tile, and to avoid problems during the operation of the applied composition, it is important to choose the right grout. This important nuance it is worth attaching no less importance than the application itself. Therefore, before grouting tiles on floors or walls, it is important to choose the right mixture for this.

Selecting a trowel must be guided by the following important criteria:

Composition and properties. Grouting materials for ceramic tile joints, depending on the composition, change their properties. In the bedroom and living room, it is better to choose a cement mixture for the joints, since it contains binders and additives for plasticity and quick solidification of the paste. For the decoration of rooms in which there is a high degree of humidity, for example, a bathroom or a bathroom, it is worth giving preference to a product with water-repellent ingredients, and for facing coatings with high level wear and tear are coarser and stronger components. It is best to choose an epoxy grout.
Appointment. A common grout paste is specified for finishing wall tile joints. At the same time, over time, the grout is subject to wear and tear and needs to be updated. For the treatment of floor seams, it is better to use a more tenacious compound, since the surface is subject to constant stress when walking and contact with various objects. Therefore, a loose composition cannot be applied here.
Colour. For many, this criterion is fundamental in the choice of material, because the color depends on how the cladding will look in the end. White is considered to be universal, but if you do not want the seams to stand out from the overall picture, then you should choose a shade that matches the color of the tile. This is very simple to do - you need to add a special color scheme to the standard white grout.

In addition, when choosing a trowel, it is worth considering the following performance characteristicsas mechanical stress and abrasion resistance (for floor tiles), resistance to moisture and temperature differences, exposure to aggressive chemicals and the width of the joints.

At the same time, it is better to choose silicone sealants for deformed and corner joints, although they are not as durable as epoxy and cement products, but they have such advantages as:

masking of tile defects;
resistance to humid environment;
antifungal properties.

However, with constant contact with food debris, the silicone grout turns into a loose mixture and begins to crumble, and the appearance turns yellow. Therefore, it is better not to process the joints near the sink and countertop in the kitchen with such a sealant.

It is worth noting that you can do the grouting of the tile joints with a self-prepared composition. The easiest way is to mix alabaster and water. Such mastic is applied quickly and easily, however, when it dries, it often crumbles and falls off. If you add gypsum to this mixture, the composition will become a little stronger, but such a grout will not last long either. Therefore, it is better to choose ready-made products.

Preparing tiles for grouting

Before applying the grout to the tile, the joints must be prepared for this. After removing the crosses or elements, the joints must be cleaned of glue residues. From the edges of the tile, the dried mixture is carefully scraped off with a wallpaper knife or a small spatula. You can also use a wooden spatula to avoid damaging the cladding material.

The tile adhesive must also be removed from the seams themselves. To do this, use a tool that can penetrate to a depth of 5-7 mm: a spatula, a screwdriver or a wooden stick, but in the latter case, the process will noticeably slow down.

To remove the remnants of glue, building chips, dirt and other debris from the gaps and from the surface, the walls and floor must be thoroughly vacuumed using a special nozzle for joints for joints. It is advisable to treat the gaps with an antifungal agent. After that, wipe the seams with a soft sponge or clean damp cloth.

If the tile has a porous surface, then it is better to glue the areas along the gaps masking tape 3-5 mm wide. This will prevent the grout from getting into the pores of the ceramic, from where it is very problematic to wash the grout. In order not to paint over the stains on the tiles with the help of special compounds, it is better to buy a couple of skeins of masking tape.

the trowel itself;
container for diluting the composition;
special rubber spatula or bag;
brush;
construction mixer;
pure water;
foam sponge.

Since you will have to stir a small portion of the paste at a time to avoid hardening, a small container is needed. If the mixture is capable of not hardening for a long time, then you can prepare more grout using a mixer. In other cases, a small amount of material is simply thoroughly mixed with a spatula until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

How to cover the seams between tiles?

Consider step by step instructionshow to use tile grout correctly:

Use a fine brush to wet the gaps with water to ensure good adhesion to the mixture.
Then you need to prepare a small portion of the pasta.
Now you can apply the mastic with a rubber spatula, or using a pastry-type bag, directly into the seam, tamping the material inward, sealing up all the voids.
Excess grout is removed with a spatula and mixed again with the entire mass. The seams should not be convex.
If the composition begins to dry out, you can add a little water.

At the same time, the grouting of tiles on the walls and floor has slight differences. On the walls, the mixture is applied from top to bottom, and on the floor - from the far corner to the exit. Silicone corner grout is applied at the very end.

In damp rooms such as a toilet and a bathroom, on next day, it is worth re-treating the seams with an antiseptic grout to reduce the possibility of mold and mildew in them. In addition, there will always be moisture. Water will often flow at the seams, so experts recommend that you additionally coat them with epoxy.

On this grout all the seams tile can be considered almost complete. But you still need to clean the tiles from the remains of the grout mixture.

How and when to wash tiles?

In order for the ceramic tile wall and floor cladding to take on its final appearance, it is necessary to clean it, remove traces of grout and other dirt. As a rule, I rub the seams two times - one main, and the next - when subsiding after drying. It is necessary to wash the surface of the tile at the very end, 12-24 hours after the final grouting.

To remove mastic from tiles, you must:

moisten a regular foam sponge with water and use it to rinse the tiles so that the remains of the grout mixture on its surface are slightly wet.
then, using a scraper or spatula, carefully remove the remaining grout, holding the tool perpendicular to the facing;
to wash corrugated or porous tiles, you can use a soft brush for clothes or a toothbrush;
stains are wiped off with a soft dry or slightly damp cloth;
then treat the tile with glass cleaner and polish it well.

Keep in mind that you need to wash off the excess grout before it dries completely, otherwise it will be very difficult to soften and remove it from the surface of the tile. In addition, scraping off the hardened mixture can easily damage the cladding, especially the glossy one.

How to care for seams?

It is not enough just to become familiar with how to properly grind the seams on the tiles. It is also important to know about the features proper care followed by.

You need to understand that clean seams, first of all, prevent the growth of mold, fungus and pathogenic bacteria.

Therefore, you need to regularly, at least once a month, do general cleaning for cleaning tiles, using soap, vinegar dissolved in water for disinfection, citric acid or special disinfectant detergents.

Chlorine solution can also be used to disinfect the surface, and hydrogen peroxide mixed with baking soda can be used to bleach seams. An old toothbrush will help you. Perfectly removes even stubborn dirt, and even germs, a good steam cleaner.

If you have residues of mastic, then you should not throw them away, since it will be necessary to rub the seams or joints on the tile more than once, especially due to overly thorough cleaning.

If the seams are covered with mold, fungus has multiplied on them, then the old grout must be cleaned, the gaps must be treated with an antiseptic and the joints must be grout again. The silicone mixture is removed with a blade, covered with an antiseptic, after which a fresh layer is applied.

Thus, the correct choice of grout, adherence to the rules in the process of work, regular and timely care contribute not only to a pleasant appearance of the coating, but also to ensure its durability.

Laying tiles with jointing is primarily related to the characteristics of the material. It's all about the edges, which do not always have the same, and even edges. Therefore, when mounted end-to-end, the rows will have distortions especially noticeable on walls with a significant length. Also this method allows you to compensate for thermal deformations, especially on floors with forced heating.

But, in turn, the resulting gaps must be protected from clogging, and most importantly from moisture. This problem is solved by grouting the joints between the tiles. How to do this work, and what materials to use?

From the right choice the main working material will depend on the quality of the performed process, as well as the functionality of the expansion joints. The above factors, due to which it is necessary to grind the seams between the tiles, will prevent: the appearance of fungus, peeling of the tile from the base.

Also, after the completion of the work, the worn out gaps look more aesthetically pleasing, and when choosing a material in general color the masonry will have a holistic appearance.

When buying the necessary mixture, you should immediately discard thoughts about the possibility of sealing seams. silicone sealants... They don't possess everyone necessary qualitiesAlso, you do not need to seal the cracks with tile adhesive, which is not as flexible as specially designed materials!

Today, two main types of compounds are used for grouting:

Cement based. A very flexible material that is easy to work with. It can be ready-made and dry. It is also subdivided into options for wide joints (more than 5 mm), and narrow (less than 5 mm). Moreover, for the former, it is necessary to have a filler in the composition - sand, which prevents the appearance of cracks.
Epoxy grout. The mixture consists of epoxy resin, hardener, and quartz filling (sand). Prepare the substance by mixing the base (epoxy + sand) and the hardener. To work with such a grout requires experience, it is very viscous, but the result is such that the joints will not lose their properties for 50 years.

Besides the right qualities material, the joint filler must be selected for the specific tile. It is worth following these instructions:

The color is chosen for the overall color of the tile.
If it has a varied color, the grout is chosen according to the prevailing tone.
When combining different tiles, the material is needed for the general background of the whole room.

Only with a careful choice of grout can you get high-quality finish protection in combination with an aesthetic appearance.

Grouting process

It is necessary to think over the filling of the expansion gaps between the tiles at the stage of their laying on the surface. Otherwise, you can get too narrow slots, which will be inconvenient to fill with material, or, on the contrary, too wide openings will be created, which is fraught with a significant consumption of grout, and its cracking. The optimal gap is considered to be within 3-5 mm, in some types of design it is made wider, but not more than 12 mm.

Before you start filling the joints with material, you need to navigate the recipe for its preparation, prepare the gaps for grouting, and also choose a convenient tool.

How can you work

Set necessary adaptations to fill the seams is small, everything is done by hand, which means that no special tool is needed.

Rubber, and ordinary, narrow plastering trowel.
Mixing container.
Foam sponge.
Clean water (if the grout is cement).

It is also worth buying rubber gloves, the base in the form of cement adversely affects the skin, there may be irritations.

Preparing gaps for grouting

In principle, if all the work on laying the tiles is done accurately, then special preparation at the work site is not required. However, this is not always the case.

Manufacturers produce various collections of tiles, both for walls and floors with beveled edges (chamfers), which are usually lighter than the rest of the background. Naturally, during transportation and installation, these parts will be contaminated, they need to be washed so that after grouting they do not stand out black.

Also, the chamfers should be cleaned during the grouting process from material splashes and at the end of the work!

Before working on filling the joints, you can inspect all the gaps for contamination, followed by cleaning them, and also wet the areas well before applying the mixture.

How to prepare the mixture

Some experts recommend using a mixer to mix the grout. But, working in a small room alone, you should not immediately prepare a large amount of material, and even more so use the whole, you may not have time to do everything in one go, and the leftovers will simply disappear. Therefore, the batch is done in portions, in small batches as consumption, and manually.

Usually, preparation is carried out using water, less often latex liquid. It is important to observe the dosages indicated on the container, otherwise excess moisture will lead to the loss of some of the qualities of the material.

Kneading is carried out by adding a dry mixture to the water, not vice versa! Moreover, the liquid initially needs about a third of the volume indicated in the recipe, then it is added during mixing. By mixing the components, they control the consistency; it should be slightly thicker than sour cream.

When preparing a large amount of grout, a mixer can be used, and it must be completely submerged in the mixture. It is important, with such mechanization, not to use high rotations of the drill, about 300 per minute is enough.

The prepared mixture should be left to infuse for a period of about 10 minutes, and then start to work on filling the joints.

Grouting joints between tiles

The grouting scheme is as follows: first, horizontal lines are processed, then vertical. The whole process is carried out from the bottom up through individual sections.

The technique is as follows:

The work must be done with two spatulas. With plastering steel, a portion of the material is collected, and it is stretched to the edge of the rubber spatula.
The main tool (rubber spatula) is set at an angle of 20-30 degrees to the seam, and with a short movement the mixture is pressed into the gap.
Excess, which will inevitably float, must be removed with the same device, moving it along the gap.
On the surface of the tile, stains will inevitably remain, which are wiped off with a sponge a little later.

Attention, a situation is possible when the tile absorbs moisture from the material too quickly (despite the preliminary moistening), and it will settle in the gap. In this case, you can add mixtures in the same way.

In addition to the spatula technique, a trowel bag can be used. This device is similar in principle to a confectionery device for creating patterns from cream. A portion of the grout is placed in the container of the tool, and, having set the nozzle at the beginning of the seam, lead the bag along, gradually squeezing the composition into the gap. In this way, you can speed up the procedure.

At the end of the work, you need to wait until the composition is dry, then wipe the tile surfaces to remove plaque.

When self-grouting tiles, you may find, after the mixture hardens, unevenly filled areas with joint defects. Do not panic, this is a completely natural situation of a decrease in the volume of material as a result of moisture loss. Simply prepare the same grout compound and reintroduce it into the gaps followed by sponge cleaning. As a result, you will get the perfect tiled design.

Having finished laying the tiles in the kitchen, you proceed to the next stage of work. This is a grout of ceramic tiles. This stage is very important, and if you know how to grind the seams on the tiles correctly, you can hide some of the installation defects. If the grout is poorly done, it will ruin even the perfect tiling.

Cement based grout
Why do you need a sealant

Work procedure

How to remove grout from tiles

Modern tile laying technology provides for grouting at the final stage of work

Make sure the tile adhesive is completely dry before starting grouting. Tile joints should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt, remove all remaining spacers (crosses). Some manufacturers state that crosses can be left in the joints and covered with grout. But the masters do not advise doing this, since the grout layer above the cross will turn out to be thinner, which means that its color will differ, which can spoil the appearance of the seam.

If you've worked with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away. If the tile is unglazed, the top and lateral surface each tile needs to be moistened. This is to prevent the unglazed surface from absorbing moisture from the grout. You can moisten the tile surface with a garden sprayer. The main thing is not to overdo it with moistening, because puddles of water remaining on the surface of the tiles or in the joints can damage the grout, and it will subsequently begin to crack. To dispel your doubts about grouting unglazed tiles, it is better to consult the grout manufacturer.

Grouting tiles: video instruction

What is the grout for tiles

There are two main types of grouting materials - mixtures based on epoxy resin and cement. When choosing a grout for tiles, do not confuse it with the elastomer sealing compounds that fill the joints building materials... For example, a silicone seal. It is actually used for tiles, but not for seams, but for filling voids when laying tiles on another surface. Craftsmen do not advise using a silicone sealant for tile joints.

Epoxy grout

In addition to epoxy resin, they contain a hardener, which makes the tile joints resistant to chemicals... This is a rather expensive grout, so it is usually used for commercial and industrial premises. It is not very convenient to work with it - the grout is viscous. If the width of the joints between the tiles is less than 6 mm, and the thickness of the tiles themselves is no more than 12 mm, then the epoxy grout will not penetrate the joints, they are very narrow for it.

Cement based grout

It is a dry mixture that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use. They also sell ready-made, already diluted cement grout in the right proportion, but they cost more. Cement-based grouts differ in the additives that make up the material. Thus, there are three types of cementitious grout: dry hardener, latex mix and industrial cement. Important: such grouting can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, negatively affect the skin and lungs. Therefore, during work, use respirators, rubber gloves and goggles.

Cement-based grout is carefully spread, filling all the empty spaces between tiles

Why do you need a sealant

Using a sealant, craftsmen have two goals: to protect the seams and the ceramic tiles themselves from stains, to protect the seams from excessive moisture absorption. So that stains do not appear on the surface of the unglazed tile, the facing is covered with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are based on varnish, acrylic or silicone. When choosing a sealant, consider the type of tile and grout you are using.

Which tile grout is best

Most masters use Atlas, Ceresit, Hercules grouting. Please note that the seams should be darker than the background of the tiles. Thus, the strictness of the geometry is emphasized, and the dirt, which inevitably accumulates in the seams over time, will not be so noticeable.

When rubbing seams with white grout, be prepared for what appears on it yellow bloomand it cannot always be cleaned with detergents. If the seams are rubbed with dark-colored material, resort to detergents once every 2-3 months. But grout is a mixture of cement with mineral additives that will tarnish over time. The darker the color of your grout, the longer the color will remain intact.

Tile grouting is done with a small rubber trowel

How to properly grind the seams on the tiles

If you have never seen how to grout ceramic tiles, a video from the Internet will help you get an idea of \u200b\u200bthe process. It includes several stages: mixing the grout, holding the grout for a certain time for better wetting, followed by re-mixing the grout, distributing the grout, cleaning the joints from excess grout.

The choice of grout for tiles is quite large in terms of price, color, and quality.

Prepare everything you need for work. You will need:

respirator (if you plan to work with cement grout);
rubber gloves, goggles;
rubber roller or spatula;
the actual grout;
bucket, clean cloth, sponge;
plywood (when it comes to floor tiles);
sealant;
paint roller or paint brush (small).

Work procedure

Application of grout

After the grout is diluted in the required proportion, lay a slide of grout on the surface of the tile (if you rub the tile joints on the floor, you can simply put the grout out of a bucket, and if you are working on the wall, use a rectangular trowel). A trowel is best for spreading the grout.

Hold the trowel diagonally so that the grout will spread more evenly over the surface.

It should be held at a 30-degree angle to the tile and the grout should be applied diagonally. Go over the tile surface with a float 2-3 times, but do not just cover the tile with grouting solution, but try to rub it into the seams, press it with force. The seam must be tightly filled with mortar. The stronger the resistance, the more the seam will be filled, which means it will be tighter. The main idea of \u200b\u200bgrouting tile joints is to fill from bottom to top all the corners and voids around the tiles. The liquid will leave the grouting joint during the grouting process, so the material will harden and the joints will be filled with particles of cement and sand.

Do not grout the entire surface at once. First spread the material over a small area no larger than 1-2 square meters... This way you can estimate how quickly the grout sets and how often you have to stop work and clean the joints.

How to grind tiles with a trowel bag

The grout bag is a very convenient and practical tool for performing a simple but important operation.

If you are working on a surface that is difficult to clean, using a grout bag is recommended. He acts on the principle pastry bag for finishing cakes. At its end, a metal tip is fixed, the width of which is approximately the same as that of the trowel. The bag is filled with grout and squeezed into the seam through the tip.

While working with the bag, place the tip on the top of the seam and slide it back and forth until the seam is completely filled. For effective filling, work along the entire length of the joint, rather than around individual tiles. First fill the horizontal, and then the vertical seams. Squeeze out a little more grout than you think is necessary, because after the first set, you should tamp the grout into the joint with a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is larger than the width of the joint, or jointing. After the compressed grout has set in the joint (this takes about half an hour), the excess should be removed with a stiff brush.

How to remove grout from tiles

Step 1: dry grout removal

After you have filled all the joints with grout, use a float to remove excess grout. It should be held at right angles to the tile and moved diagonally relative to the joint surface. If you move it vertically or horizontally, the edge of the tool can ruin some seam by removing some of the grout from it. After removing any excess grout dry, allow the seams to grasp before starting the wet grout.

Step 2: wet grout removal

How long should it take after the end of the dry grout? It varies greatly from installation to installation. Sometimes it takes 25-30 minutes, and sometimes five is enough. The rate of drying of the grout depends on the adhesive, tile, type of substrate. Weather conditions play an important role.

Working with a damp sponge is an obligatory stage of work, which will return the tile shine, gloss and original color

The remains of grout on the surface of ceramic tiles sometimes dry out quite quickly, while in the joints the grout remains wet for a long time. Use a very damp sponge for evaluation. With it you can test a small area of \u200b\u200bthe surface. If grout sets very quickly, wet removal of grout will be tedious. The material in the seams should be tight and elastic, but not hard. If the grout is reaching behind your damp sponge, it has not yet grasped enough, you will have to wait a few more minutes. Begin cleaning when the grout remains in place.

If too much time has passed from grouting to wet grouting, you can remove the dried-on excess with a special abrasive float. It does not scratch the tile surface.

For wet grouting, you will need a bucket of water and a sponge. First, quickly remove most of the grout with a sponge. Use a gentle circular motion with the sponge to gradually remove sand and cement particles. Make sure that no grooves form in the seams. Rinse the sponge from time to time and wring it out well.

For getting perfect result the seams are given the same shape and depth

Inspect the grouting joints and smooth them out if necessary with a jointing (wooden stick with a sharpened end). It is very important to give the seams the same depth and shape.

Step 3: final cleaning

When all joints are aligned, the tile surface should be cleaned again. This is done with a sponge, which must be constantly washed in water and squeezed well. The purpose of this cleaning is to remove all grout residues from the tile surface. After that, the seams should dry within 15 minutes.

Step 4: applying sealant

Sealant can be used to cover both tiles and grout when the tile joints have completely hardened. If you will only cover the seams, use a small brush, if both the tile and grout use a small roller.