The grout performs several functions at once: it provides waterproofing of the joints, prevents the appearance of mold, hides minor laying defects and uneven edges of the tile itself. In addition, it is the grout that gives the cladding a neat, finished look, emphasizes the color and texture of the tile. Consider how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor, and what composition is needed for this.
Grouts are available in the form of a ready-made mixture or dry powder, which must be diluted to a paste state immediately before processing the seams. The basis of the grout is cement or resin, as a result of which the compositions differ in their characteristics and scope.
There are two types of such grouts - on sand- cement base and based on Portland cement. The first type is the simplest and cheapest grout, designed for wide joints (more than 5 mm). The composition may have different grain sizes, depending on the fraction of sand used. Such a grout is short-lived, crumbles during cleaning, does not tolerate prolonged exposure to water. In addition, it cannot be used on glazed tiles, since sharp grains of sand leave many small scratches on the surface.
The second type is a mixture of cement and various additives that contribute to the plasticity of the mixture and slow down its setting. It is intended for seams 3-5 mm wide. To dilute the dry mixture, water or liquid latex is used, which increases the hydrophobic properties of the grout. Such a grout is easy to apply, fills the seams with high quality, can be used on glazed tiles.
Grout for tile joints - consistency
Advantages of the cement composition:
- very affordable price;
- simplicity and ease of application;
- if necessary, replace the old grout without special efforts removed from the seams.
Disadvantages:
- susceptibility to cracking;
- insufficient moisture resistance;
- lack of resistance to chemically aggressive substances;
- limited color range.
Resin Grout
Such a grout is called a two-component grout, because it is mixed with a hardener before use. Furan or epoxy resin acts as a base: the first type is used in the industrial sector, the second is suitable for both industrial and domestic use.
Epoxy grout has good moisture and chemical resistance. Seams treated with this composition are easier to clean from dirt, do not absorb water, do not crumble, and retain for a very long time. original color. By the way, the color range of epoxy grouts is much richer and brighter than that of cement grouts, which is due to the presence of special pigments in the composition.
Advantages:
- resistance to temperature extremes and negative influences;
- abrasion resistance;
- plastic;
- dirt-repellent properties;
- fade resistance.
Disadvantages:
- high price;
- application complexity.
Choice of grout
The grout affects the overall perception of the cladding, and incorrect choice composition can completely spoil the impression. In order not to be mistaken, you should select the grout taking into account the type of tile surface, the width of the joints, and the color scheme of the finish. The following tips will help you decide:
- for glass tiles and mosaics, it is recommended to use translucent epoxy compounds. After drying, they do not shine through the tile, unlike other mixtures;
- for tiles with embossed or untreated surface, you need to purchase additionally protective compound, which prevents the penetration of grout into the pores;
- cement grouts are chosen for wide joints (5-15 mm), epoxy for narrow ones (1-5 mm). As a rule, manufacturers always indicate the permissible joint width for a particular type of mixture on the grout packaging;
- for a bathroom, kitchen and bathroom it is worth buying epoxy grouts, for dry rooms - cement.
As for color, there are also rules here. You can make a colored grout yourself by adding a coloring pigment to the mixture, but in this case it is difficult to achieve the desired shade. In addition, if the composition is poorly mixed, the seams after grouting will be painted unevenly, which immediately catches the eye. It is best to buy a ready-made color mixture: each hardware store presents the available samples on special fans or layouts.
The color of the grout matters a lot. To emphasize the geometry of the tile, you need to choose a composition that is contrasting in color, that is, dark grout is chosen for light tiles, and light for dark tiles. Bright colored grouts give the cladding a fresh and elegant look, but at the same time emphasize the slightest laying errors. Here are the muted pastel shades add restraint and smooth out defects.
In order for the seams to harmonize in color with the finish, it is recommended to choose the color of the grout according to the darkest or the lightest shade that is present in the tile pattern. If the lining is black and white, the seams should be gray color. In general, gray is universal color, it is suitable for any tile, so if you cannot decide, choose it and you will not be mistaken.
Use white grout for floor tiles not recommended: the slightest dirt is clearly visible on the white seams, so they will have to be cleaned much more often. In addition, over time, such a grout acquires a yellowish tint, and the seams have a less attractive appearance. The best option for floor tiles are grouts of all shades of brown and gray.
To increase the decorativeness of tile joints, special additives are produced - mother-of-pearl, luminescent, as well as silver and gold chips. All of them are designed for epoxy grouts, and mixing with cement composition desired effect does not give. These additives are sold separately and are simply mixed with the working composition until smooth before grouting. The processed seams look very impressive, and, depending on the type of additive, they can shimmer in the light with brilliant sparks, cast in mother-of-pearl, bronze, platinum, or glow in the dark.
Table. Popular brands of grouts
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| A popular cement-based composition with the addition of organic, polymeric and mineral components. It is intended for processing joints with a width of 1-6 mm, used on cladding made of ceramics, glass and natural stone. When applied, it is characterized by high plasticity, easily penetrates into all voids, and adheres firmly to the surface. After hardening, it is characterized by minimal shrinkage, excellent resistance to mechanical stress, resistance to fading, low water absorption. Available in powder form, packaged in bags of 5 and 2 kg. Available in 32 different colors |
| Cement-polymer composition with improved characteristics. Designed for joints 2-20 mm, suitable for ceramics, natural stone, agglomerates, marble and glass mosaics. The mixture is easy to apply, dries quickly, effortlessly peels off the surface. After curing, it provides color fastness, dirt and water repellency, resistance to abrasion and stress. Produced in the form of a powder, packaged in bags of 5 and 2 kg |
| Epoxy composition with mineral fillers. Designed for seams up to 10 mm wide. Suitable for all types of tiles, porcelain tiles, natural stone. After curing, the grout is resistant to chemical detergents, water, ultraviolet radiation, and intense mechanical stress. Available as a paste that must be mixed with a hardener prior to application. Packed in plastic buckets of 5 kg, gray |
| It is made on the basis of cement, intended for processing joints up to 10 mm wide in rooms with a high level of humidity. Contains anti-fungal additives, is easy to apply, after hardening forms a perfectly smooth surface. The seams do not crack for a long time, they perfectly tolerate intense loads, do not fade. The grout is resistant to temperature fluctuations, so it can be used on underfloor heating. The color range includes more than 30 shades |
| It is made on the basis of cement, intended for joints 1-5 mm wide. With proper dilution, the mixture has good plasticity, it is convenient to apply and easy to clean off the surface of the tile. The main feature of this grout is the absence of streaks on the tile after washing. The hardened composition provides the seams with durability and uniformity of color, reliable protection against moisture penetration. Also, Axton grout perfectly tolerates temperature fluctuations, and can be used to process the seams of tiles laid on a warm floor. |
Grout Width
The width of the joints also affects the overall perception of the cladding and the quality of the grout. For square and rectangular tiles the optimal joint width is 1.5-3 mm, for tiles irregular shape seams can be increased up to 12 mm. The wider the seam, the higher the likelihood of cracking under the influence of intense loads on the floor, so making seams wider than 12 mm is undesirable. In addition, with a large width of the joints, the grout consumption unreasonably increases.
At the same time, joints less than 1.5 mm wide are difficult to fill, especially if a thick epoxy mixture is used. And poor-quality filling contributes to the penetration of moisture to the ends of the tile, the accumulation of dirt, and the development of mold. It is also difficult to clean too narrow seams, and over time, the lining becomes sloppy.
How to properly seal seams
The grouting process is quite simple and consists of three main stages: preparing the seams, applying the grout mixture, and cleaning the surface. Let's consider each of them in detail.
To process the seams you will need:
- rubber and narrow metal spatula;
- capacity for kneading grout;
- construction mixer;
- dry grout;
- a bucket of clean water;
- sponge or soft cloth.
Grouting can be started a day after finishing the floor, provided that the tiles are laid on the adhesive. If laying was carried out on a cement mortar, grouting is performed no earlier than a week or 10 days later, depending on the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The grout itself is carried out at a temperature of +5 ° C to +35 ° C and a humidity of not more than 70%. It is also necessary to exclude drafts and forced floor heating so that the mixture dries naturally. Only under these conditions will the seams be as strong and durable as possible.
Step 1. The surface of the tile is cleaned of dirt with a damp sponge, the remaining solution is removed with a rubber spatula.
Step 2 Clean the seams of glue by half the thickness of the tile. This can be done with a plastic cross, a corner of a spatula, or any other suitable object. The main thing is not to damage the edges and the decorative layer of the tile. Finally, wipe the surface with a clean, dry cloth.
Step 3 Mix the grout solution. Water is poured into the container, then the dry composition is poured and mixed with a mixer until smooth. The ratio of water and powder for different brands of grout is different, so be sure to look for the proportions in the instructions on the package. These proportions must be strictly adhered to, otherwise the solution may delamination, the appearance of cracks in the seams during drying, and other defects.
Add the dry mixture to the water according to the instructions on the package.
Advice. It is not necessary to immediately prepare a lot of the solution, since it seizes rather quickly and is unsuitable for work after hardening. It is better to knead in small portions that you have time to fully work out.
Step 4 The solution is allowed to stand for about 5 minutes, then again intensively stirred with a mixer for 1-2 minutes. This will achieve maximum uniformity of the composition, which will facilitate its application and improve the quality of filling the joints.
Step 5 The solution is collected with a rubber spatula and applied across the seam with short movements, rubbing the mass inward. Excess composition is removed with longitudinal movements, holding the spatula at an angle to the surface.
Step 6 After 20 minutes after grouting, you can proceed with the initial cleaning of the tiles. To begin with, with a rubber spatula, the frozen crumbs of the solution are scraped off at the seams, and they are swept away from the surface. In the process of work, try not to catch the seams themselves, so as not to leave indentations.
Step 7 They take a damp, clean sponge and wipe off the traces of grout in short circular motions. It is impossible to rub in one place for a long time, so as not to remove excess at the joints. After the sponge, the tiles are wiped with a clean, slightly damp cloth.
Advice. For effective cleaning The sponge should be washed as often as possible in plenty of water. A dirty sponge will only leave streaks, and it will take longer to clean.
After cleaning, you need to carefully examine all the seams: if voids and recesses are found, you should knead a little grout again and repair the defects separately. If the tile is unglazed, and in some places the grout is not cleaned well, a special cleaner will come to the rescue. These products are sold in all construction stores and are relatively inexpensive. Since the cleaner is a chemically aggressive substance, it is necessary to work with it with gloves.
Video - How to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor
Some forty years ago, no one knew such a word as grout. The last squeak in the form of Greek or Polish tiles still had to be managed to get, and it was not always possible to buy a tile of the same color. It was glued (it was glued, not laid) on the walls and floor in all conceivable and inconceivable ways. And what was not added to adhesive mixture so that she stays in the chosen place! They glued without seams, so no one needed grout.
But time and technology run forward, overtaking all ideas of beauty and practicality.
Peculiarities
Today, without grout, it is simply impossible to imagine a well-laid tile. The technology of laying facing tiles in our time implies that seams are made between the decorative elements. Seams are called the indent between the ends of two adjacent tiles not filled with tile adhesive. You need to know how to properly grout the seams on the tiles.
Intertile seams have a purely utilitarian purpose:
- They create a thermal gap. Everyone knows from the course of physics that bodies expand when heated. With very narrow joints or with no joints at all, ceramic tiles can crack in any direction, squeezing one another out.
- Tile different manufacturers calibrated differently. Tile calibration is a tolerance for the deviation of the size of the finished product from the dimensions declared by the manufacturer. Sometimes the calibration can go up to 1 mm. When laying such unevenly sized tiles without seams or with narrow seams, it is impossible to get a more or less decent wall.
In order for the final result to have clear horizontals and verticals, a poorly calibrated tile must be shifted, centered, changing the size of the seam for each adjacent pair.
In order to avoid gaps between the laid elements of wall and floor decoration, into which water and dirt will enter, the seams are filled with a special solution called grout. Ceramic tiles, for the most part, have a slight rounding at the edges due to the peculiarities of its manufacturing technology.
Glaze covering ceramics is applied to only one surface. Therefore, the ends of the tile have the color of the clay from which it was made, and differ from the color of the pattern on the front side. When the seams are not worn, the brown edges are visible to the naked eye and spoil the whole picture.
A common mistake of amateurs is that they believe that imperfections in tiling and mechanical damage in the form of small chips can be hidden with grout. She, like paint, only emphasizes all the flaws. Therefore, it is better to replace a defective tile immediately or lay it in an inconspicuous place. e.g. for a bath or shower.
The composition and basis of the grout from different manufacturers are different. Some add special antifungal additives, others - hardening components, others try to give the grout more elasticity, and others - water-repellent properties.
The more such consumer properties a grout has, the more expensive it is.
Kinds
The basis for the most commonly used grouts is usually gypsum or cement, the resulting joint is opaque, uniform in composition and color. To give the lined tiled surface an aesthetic appearance, the grout is tinted (coloring pigments are added) in various colors. But in special cases with such a composition it is impossible to achieve the desired result.
To get a transparent or translucent seam, use compositions based on epoxy resin, which can be tinted in different colors or add different fillers. Fillers can also be finely ground powder of silver or gold color and small beads, as well as small holographic sparkles, as for decorating nails.
The strength of such a grout will be no less than that of the tile itself, and dirt will not eat into the seams.
Another type of grout is based on the use of furan resin. Its feature is an exceptionally deep black color. In grouts based on gypsum or cement, the most dark color– anthracite, black with gray tint. This is due to the characteristics of the base materials, which no one has yet been able to tint daughter.
Today, as a grout in places of increased load and humidity, they increasingly began to use painted in different colors silicone sealants.
Classic material grouting was and remains tile adhesive on the clinker. The seam is strong, its width does not matter, the color is only gray.
The grout is sold in any building supermarket both in a ready-to-use form and as a mixture for preparing a mortar for clinker tiles. This is an equal replacement.
How to breed?
Those who make repairs with their own hands should memorize the rule for preparing solutions from dry mixtures: the mixture is added to water, not water to the mixture. But grouts are an exception to this rule. Since the features of their composition are such that they take little water, water is added to the dry powder to obtain a solution of the desired consistency.
The water used to prepare any mortar should in no case be warm or hot, otherwise the mixture will immediately turn into a frozen, shapeless lump with which nothing can be done. First of all, you need to correctly calculate the proportions.
Manufacturers, as a rule, indicate on the packaging the recommended amount of water per 100 g or per 1 kg of dry mix. But this figure is not mandatory. The density of the solution depends on the result that you want to get in the end. For standard way grouting solution should be like thick homemade sour cream or tomato paste. If during mixing part of the mixture remains dry, add water in very small portions until the solution reaches the desired density.
If, on the contrary, the mixture turned out to be very liquid, similar to kefir, you can gradually add dry grout, again in small portions. And mix well so that there are no lumps.
Some additives make grout mixtures very non-hygroscopic, and the particles of the mixture do not want to get wet. It is necessary to knead such compositions carefully and for quite a long time until a thick homogeneous mass is obtained.
The viability of the diluted grout is small, on the strength of half an hour or an hour. After this time, the solution begins to harden, clot, lose plasticity, and it is no longer possible to work with it. Therefore, it is most preferable to dilute the grout in small portions. If during the work the composition began to thicken, you can add a small amount of water to it and stir well.
If you cook a lot of grout, then it is very difficult to work it all out without losing quality. Preparing a large amount of the mixture at once is logical only if several people work on grouting at once, each of which performs a certain stage.
The most suitable container for diluting the grout is a rubber or flexible polymer cup with a volume of 300 to 500 ml. Flexibility is due to the fact that when the mixture hardens, it becomes very hard and it is almost impossible to scrape it off hard dishes. When twisting a soft cup, the frozen grout “snaps off” from the walls and is knocked out with a slight tap. If you try to knock on a hard container, then the cup is more likely to crack than the grout will fall behind the walls.
In the case of using a ready-made grout mixture, the manufacturer did everything for us. It can be used by taking it straight out of the bucket. Just remember to close the lid tightly so that the unused grout does not dry out. After 12-24 hours on outdoors the finished mixture is first covered with a film, and then turns into a solid, unsuitable for grouting substance.
Instruments
Before you start grouting the seams, you need to prepare a bucket of clean cool water, latex or vinyl gloves and a few dense sponges (like for washing dishes) with fine pores, as well as two hygroscopic cloth napkins. For the convenience of work, a stepladder is needed. Directly to fill the joints with grout, you need a flexible polyurethane spatula 5-10 cm wide and a container with a ready-made solution.
If grouting skills are not developed, it is better to take a tool small size. It's also a good idea to have a paint knife on hand for partial correction of the seam. To form an aesthetic seam, you need a round ebonite stick of small diameter - 3-5 mm.
In special cases, masking tape with good adhesion may be needed. You can choose a device such as a special machine for filling seams. This will greatly simplify your work and you will complete it faster.
How to apply?
Be sure to use gloves, so you will seal the seams without fear for the condition of your hands. The composition of the grout is quite aggressive. Without hand protection, you risk contact dermatitis.
In order for the seams to turn out neat, without extraneous inclusions and color deviations due to the tile adhesive not removed from the ends, they must be cleaned before starting work. Experienced craftsmen wash the seams with a richly wetted sponge directly in the process of laying the tiles. They do this because it is much more difficult to renew dried tile adhesive. But if it so happened that the dried glue still remained in the seams, it can be cleaned with a small spatula or a paint knife. This operation must be carried out carefully, as mechanical action can damage the glaze of the ceramic product. You will get chips that are very difficult to repair.
After cleaning the seams, it is preferable to rinse them with a damp sponge and joint.
It is necessary to cover the seams as quickly as possible, apply the solution with confident movements and close up all the chips. You can also darken the seam or recolor it. You can change the color by adding special paints.
There are several ways to get nice and even seams using grout.
Based on gypsum or cement
In any case, it is possible to rub the seams only after the tile adhesive has lost its mobility and the tile has clearly fixed in place. For floors, this moment is determined by the time when it will be possible to walk on the tile without pushing through the tile with the weight of one's own body.
The composition is applied to a clean seam in a direction transverse to it with little effort, with continuous strokes along its entire length. The remains of the grout are removed from the tile with the same spatula, running it along the seam. The seam becomes even. Excess grout is sent back to the container with the finished composition. Visually, you can immediately assess the full filling of the seam with grout. If somewhere there is a gap (hole) or an insufficient amount of grout, it is advisable to correct these defects without waiting for the seam to harden. In the same way, fill the seams on the entire wall. Then they return to the place from which they started, and already clean the grout.
Cleaning the grout with this method of applying it, aims to make all the seams equally even and smooth. This operation is done with a round ebonite stick. If there is no such tool, then you can use a round pencil or an oval lighter. Passing a stick along the seam with a slight pressure on the grout that has begun to harden, remove all excess from the seam and form its slightly concave smooth surface. The seams are slightly recessed, even along the entire length.
After the formation of the seam, the tile is wiped first with a slightly damp, and then with a dry cloth. Here it is very important to start the process of forming a beautiful seam before the moment when the grout begins to gain strength.
In another case, the composition is applied in the same way, only the seam is formed immediately with a damp sponge or finger, swiping with a sufficiently damp sponge with a little pressure. With this method, you will not have to return to an already worn area. In addition, the tile is washed directly during the grouting process. After drying, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a dry cloth.
The finished composition is placed in a trowel bag with a nozzle of the size required for the seam. Fill first either vertical or horizontal seams. When squeezing the mixture, you need to carefully monitor that it fills the seam completely, without gaps. Since any mixtures diluted with water have the property of shrinkage, that is, a decrease in volume upon drying and evaporation of moisture from them, it is necessary to apply grout in a slightly larger amount than it seems directly at the moment of mashing the seam.
sealant
Sealants are produced in tubes and cylinders for special pistols. For mashing seams, the second option is used. The sealed tip of the balloon is cut off sharp knife, after which a cone nozzle, which comes complete with a sealant, is screwed onto it. The cylinder is inserted into the gun, the tip of the cone nozzle is cut off so as to obtain the required seam width. The sealant is squeezed out exactly into the seam. Leveling it can be done with a wet finger or sponge. From the surface of the tile, excess sealant should be immediately washed off with a damp sponge and wiped dry with a cloth.
Resin based
The composition usually has a two-component structure, consisting of the resin itself and the hardener. To obtain a more homogeneous mass without air bubbles, the resin must be heated in a water bath to a temperature of about 50-60 degrees before mixing. Add hardener, tinting paste if required, and filler of choice according to the design. The mixture should be applied directly to the seam. You can use a piping bag with a nozzle or buy a special trowel bag. Align the seams most conveniently with a flexible plastic spatula.
If the grout gets on the surface of the tile, immediately wipe the soiled area dry, then rinse with a damp sponge and wipe dry again.
When grouting joints on tiles that do not have a smooth, but a relief surface, the mixture from the front surface of the tile should be immediately washed out with plenty of water. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to bring it into a decent form. The grout that has eaten into small depressions of the relief is very poorly cleaned during hardening. You can mess up the whole job.
If the tile "does not fit", then the seams are obtained in different widths in one row - vertical or horizontal. In this case, after the standard filling of the seams, you can use the following trick: on a dry and clean tile along the entire length of the seam that needs to be adjusted, masking tape is glued on both sides. The width of the seam is chosen based on the widest. The grout is diluted a little more liquid than for filling joints.
The mixture is carefully applied to the formed seam, immediately smoothing it and eliminating defects. The adhesive tape is removed without waiting for the mixture to solidify. Otherwise, the grout will begin to crumble along the edges of the seam and the edge of the seam will become jagged instead of straight. Masking tape can also be used when grouting tiles with small relief to protect the edge of the front surface from getting grout on it. In this case, you do not have to spend a lot of time washing. The same applies to finishing materials with a porous structure. Here you simply cannot do without adhesive tape.
After grouting all vertical and horizontal joints, do not forget to fill with the mixture all technological cutouts on the tile near the heated towel rail, outlets for hot and cold water, taps for connecting washing machine etc.
When filling joints on tiles with straight (unsmoothed) ends, the joints must be made without deepening. That is, the seam and the front surface of the tile must form a single surface. Otherwise side surface brown color will be visible from under the grout and spoil the whole impression.
For grouting, you can buy a mixture that matches the color of the tile. But sometimes manufacturers use such colors and patterns that it is simply impossible to buy a ready-made mixture of colors. In such cases, you need to buy either just a white grout, or the closest in color, and bring it to the desired shade by adding a tinting paste of the required color range.
Repairs may seem endless if you "pull the cat by the tail." In fact, each stage of the work is not so difficult, if you approach the matter competently and smoothly. This attitude requires to itself and grouting between tiles. It is imperative to rub the seams, as this will improve the aesthetic appearance and help hide various defects in the cladding. If the work is done poorly, then you can easily spoil all your work. Therefore, today we turn to the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles so that the kitchen only pleases with its brand new transformation, and all possible flaws are veiled as best as possible.
To make it clearer for you, we have compiled today's material into three main parts:
1. How to grout the seams on the tiles correctly?
2. How to remove grout?
3. If the grout is cracking...
Preparatory work
Grouting should not be started without making sure that the tile adhesive is completely dry. Before performing work, you should also clean the seams themselves from dust, debris and other dirt. Those. the surface for grouting must be prepared. Do not forget to remove the dividing crosses. It is highly undesirable to leave them, because after rubbing these places will immediately catch your eye - the grout will lie thicker, and therefore will differ in color from the seams above the separators.
The side edges of each tile must be wetted with water if you are dealing with unglazed tiles. The fact is that the grout contains moisture, and the unglazed surface tends to absorb it. But it is necessary to wet the edges of the tile carefully so that moisture does not accumulate in the tile joints, and large drops of water are not visible on the tile itself. Otherwise, excess moisture will damage the grout, causing it to crack over time. Usually, manufacturers write all the necessary instructions on the grout packaging.
If glazed tiles were used in the kitchen, then you can rub the seams on the tiles immediately after the glue has dried. Tiled edges do not need to be wetted.
How to grout the seams on the tiles correctly?
Before grouting ceramic tiles, you need to prepare all the necessary tools in advance. So, you will need:
Grout
- rubber spatula or rubberized roller, trowel bag
- a respirator (it is needed only for cement grout)
- a piece of plywood (if you are grouting tiles on the floor)
- sealant (what it is for, we will also tell)
- a small brush or paint roller
- sponge and clean cloth
- bucket and water
- protective equipment (goggles and rubber gloves)
Working process
There are two ways to grout tile joints: with a rubber spatula or using a grout bag. Choose the method that is convenient for you.
Important: tiles must be clean! It should be free of dust, dirt, and glue residue. The grout lines need to be cleaned too! And the tiles must be dry before grouting.
How to grout tile joints with a spatula or grater?
Look at the packaging of the purchased grout. It should indicate the desired proportions for diluting the grout (do not forget to check the expiration date). Carry out all the manipulations according to the instructions (for this you have prepared a bucket). Ready grout is suitable for use in just 20 minutes. So don't dilute too much. The grout is distributed with a trowel (choose with glued porous rubber) or a rubber spatula. Now, using a spatula or grater, lay a slide of grout on the tile and begin to distribute. The tool must be held at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and the grout should be applied with diagonal movements. Try not to smear the grout on the surface of the tile, but rub it into the seams, pressing it in with force. If the seam is filled with substance tightly, then proceed to the next one. Your task is to fill all the voids and corners around the tile well with mortar.
When the first 5 minutes have passed after filling the joint with grout, wipe the tile with a damp cloth. It should not be too dry or too wet. Water can wash out the grout or change the color of the grout.
Do not start wiping a large area at once! Choose a work area of 1 square meter and gradually move on. So you will understand how soon the grout will seize in order to start removing excess.
How to grout the seams on the tiles with a grout bag?
Typically, a grout bag is used on surfaces that are difficult to clean later. A trowel bag is similar to a pastry bag in many ways. First, a special tip is put on the bag, the width of which is equal to the seam between the tiles. Then grout is added to it, which is squeezed directly into the seam through the tip.
Start filling the tile joint from top to bottom. Those. placed the tip in upper part, began to squeeze out the grout, leading the hand down, and then in the same way, squeezing out the substance, leading the hand up. And so on, until the seam is tightly filled with mortar. It is very important to do this work not around each tile separately, but along the entire length of the seam. Start with horizontal seams first, and then move on to vertical ones.
Another nuance of working with a grout bag is the compaction of a dense layer after setting with a smooth metal tube with a diameter greater than the width of the tile joint or jointing. Those. when you filled the seam, and the grout seized a little, it needs to be tamped. Consider this moment! Therefore, it is necessary to squeeze the grout into the seam a little more so that after tamping there is no gap. Instead of a tube, you can use the end of a toothbrush. Try to keep all seams looking the same.
It takes about half an hour to completely set in the seam of the compacted grout. After that, you can start removing the excess. How this is done is described below.
How to remove grout?
The grout is removed in three steps!
Stage one - dry removal
When all the seams are grouted, take a grater with porous rubber glued on. She will remove excess grout from the tile. Hold the tool at a 90 degree angle to the tile. Start moving the grater diagonally with respect to the tile joints. It is impossible to drive a grater horizontally or vertically, since there is a high risk of damaging the worn seams. Then you have to add grout to them again. After removing all excess grout, wait for it to fully set and only then proceed to wet removal.
Stage two - wet grout removal
Grout in tile joints seizes and hardens much longer than grout on tiles. If in the first case, the time can stretch up to half an hour, then in the second, only a few minutes can suffice. To make sure that the grout in the joints is completely dry, you need to strongly moisten the sponge with water and wipe it small plot seam. If the grout stretches behind the sponge, then it is not completely dry. We'll have to wait some more. Wet removal begins only after the grout has completely dried in the tile joints.
Then take a sponge with rounded edges, moisten it with water and proceed with careful circular movements on the tile, gently matching the seams. This is how, gradually, all excess particles of sand and cement will be removed. Don't forget to rinse the sponge and change the water in the bucket. Remember that water can wash out the grout in the joints. So don't overdo it. Leave the seams to dry for 25 minutes.
Stage three - remove grout residues with acid-containing products
After wet grout removal from the tile, you may be left with a small white coating on tiles or hardened grout stains that cannot be removed with water. To get rid of these defects, use acid-containing products. For example, Deterdek or Litokol.
If you have tiled the floor, then to dry it better, cover the tile with plywood.
Sealant will help the tiles stay beautiful for a long time
We think that a lot is already clear from the title itself. Sealant helps prevent stains on ceramic tiles and prevents the joints from absorbing excess moisture. The most common range of sealants is based on silicone, varnish or acrylic. Choose based on the type of tile and grout you have used.
Cover the tiles with sealant only when the joints are dry (the grout drying time is indicated in the instructions) and ceramic tiles. Therefore, first take care of the cleanliness of the surface. Sealant can cover both the entire tile as a whole, and only the seams. In the first case, you need a small paint roller, in the second - a small brush. If you pass only the seams with sealant, then remove the excess that has fallen on the tile immediately.
It may be necessary to cover the tile with sealant again in a couple of years. The actions are all the same.
What type of grout to choose for tile joints?
All grouts can be divided into two main categories: cement-based or epoxy-based. When choosing grout for tiles, always read the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. For example, a silicone sealant in your case is not suitable for tile joints. Its purpose is to fill the voids between the tiles when laying on another surface. Be careful!
Cement based grout
It is sold both in the form of a dry mix, which should be diluted, and in a ready-made version. You understand that everything that is ready is more expensive. Cement-based grouts differ in additives - industrial cement, dry hardener, latex mixture. They should only be used in special means protection - a respirator, goggles and rubber gloves. Take special care of your eyes and hands. Cementitious grouts can adversely affect the lungs and skin, cause inflammation and eye irritation.
Epoxy grout
For such a grout, wide seams are needed. For example, tile joints less than 6 mm wide and tiles up to 12 mm thick are not suitable for epoxy grout. It simply cannot penetrate there, because it has a rather viscous consistency.
If the grout cracks
It may happen that after a couple of weeks the grout suddenly began to crack. And there are several reasons for this:
1. The grout dilution technology specified by the manufacturer was not followed. Those. you have added too much water. Therefore, when excess moisture began to evaporate, the grout layer began to sag - hence the cracks (the grout mass in the tile joints decreased).
2. The tile itself can also absorb water from the grout.
3. The instructions for grouting always indicate the width of the joints for which it is intended. If you ignored this point, then the appearance of cracks is inevitable.
4. Unleveled surface for tiling.
Options for correcting the situation:
1. If you used grout white color, then in defective places with an ordinary construction knife, carefully scratch the grout and apply a new one over the old layer.
2. If you used colored grout, then the method described above will not work. new color can mix with the old layer and give a different shade at the exit. Therefore, you will have to completely remove the grout from the seam and fill it with a new one. Removing grout from all tile joints is very expensive. Great risk of damaging the tiles. Therefore, do it only in places of cracking.
Important!!! If you do not pay attention to the cracks, then over time they will only expand. Therefore, it is better not to let everything take its course.
What grout to choose for tiles?
The color of the grout plays an important role. For example, white grout in combination with dark tiles will emphasize the laying geometry, and in the opposite situation, it will smooth it out. Dark grout fades over the years, and white is covered yellow coating(you can try to wipe it off with a melamine sponge).
Any repair of the premises where the tiled flooring is laid requires a full complex construction works. The final stage is the grouting of joints between tiles with special compounds that differ in structure, consumer characteristics and complexity of use. It is difficult to navigate among the mass of materials offered, so in this article we will consider the main aspects of this topic. Perhaps this will help you make the right choice and successfully purchase products that match your parameters. Grouting completes the process of tiling the surface.
It is important to conduct it without mistakes in order to get excellent result. Beginners have a lot of questions: how do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it without subsequent alteration. It is recommended to inquire before starting work necessary materials and process. On this topic, there are many videos on the Internet from professionals that significantly speed up the learning period for beginners.
Some of the questions to consider are the following:
- what types of grouts are;
- how to carry out work on sealing seams;
- what needs to be prepared for these manipulations;
- which brand to prefer;
- are there any pitfalls in the process.
Why is it necessary to grout the seams of the facing tiles on the floor? This process seals and prevents moisture and debris from entering the inter-tile space. As a result, the service life is extended. Also, high-quality work successfully masks the shortcomings of laying, and adds completeness and aesthetics to the floor or wall covering.
Types of grout for floor tiles
The industry offers consumers several types of grouts (the second name is fugues) for tiles that differ in characteristics. These include:
- cement;
- polymer-cement and polymer;
- epoxy and epoxy-cement;
- polyurethane.
There is also a furan fugue, but at home it is used very rarely - it is only black. Although she has excellent performance. If the color scheme of your coating allows you to process seams in such a spectrum, it is quite possible to joint with a furan variety.
The names are taken from the main component that is part of the grout. He will determine the properties of the fugue and its scope. When choosing, pay attention to two main aspects: the width of the seam being processed and the expected level of humidity in the room. Also look at the packaging: ready mixes supplied in plastic containers, dry - in paper bags or bags.
Cement
The basis for this type is white cement, mixed with fine purified sand during production. This grout is used on surfaces that are not subject to vibrations. The lack of plasticity leads to the appearance of cracks, so this factor must be taken into account when buying.
It is also not recommended to use such a fugue in rooms with high humidity- the composition is hygroscopic, which will lead to the appearance of mold. Therefore, to extend the service life, water-repellent impregnations are used.
Cement grouting tiles on the floor is produced in the form of a powder that requires dilution with water before use. This is due to the rapid freezing ready solution. The seams are rubbed with a special rubber spatula.
Important! It is worth remembering the insecurity of preparing a working solution. The dust generated during mixing causes irritation of the mucous membranes and an allergic reaction. Be sure to use individual means protection - respirators and goggles.
Polymer-cement and polymer
This type differs from cement grout by the presence of polymer compounds in the composition. This removed the shortcomings of the previous one and provided the following positive qualities:
- strength;
- plastic;
- moisture resistance.
The listed properties made it possible to use the fugue regardless of the level of humidity and surface mobility. The principle of application is the same as the previous one. The consumer is offered in a dry form, which implies the preparation of a working solution. It freezes quickly, it is recommended to prepare the mixture in small portions.
The polymer fugue is designed to fill micro-joints in porcelain stoneware or stone and has specific characteristics. Does not contain cement, the basis is silicone. Plastic and waterproof properties. Permitted to use indoors high humidity. A feature during application is the need to protect the tiles masking tape along the seams and the presence of a gun for filling.
Epoxy and epoxy cement
These compositions have many advantages over the previous ones. They are durable and elastic, resistant to various aggressive influences and temperature extremes. It is possible to add decorative shiny additives, which improves the appearance of the tile flooring. The disadvantage is the complexity of the work due to the high viscosity, even for professionals in this field. But the result will please for a long time, without losing practical and aesthetic qualities.
Epoxy fugue has a two-component composition - resin and hardener. The components are mixed before use until a thick plastic mass is formed. They work with it quickly, after mixing the components, the fugue hardens. Before work, it is recommended to watch training videos with grouting tiles on the floor with this type to prevent negative consequences.
Also, among the features, it is worth noting that it is possible to fill joints with a width of at least 6 mm due to the viscous consistency. Available in a wide range of colors, including silver, gold, bronze.
Polyurethane grout
It is a dispersion of polyurethane resins water based. It surpasses cement fugues in quality, but is inferior to epoxy ones. Waterproof, practical, does not change appearance after a long time. Resistant to vibrations and small deformations. It is offered in ready-to-use consistency. Easy to operate.
Seams up to 6mm are available for processing. Before jointing the tiles on the floor with polyurethane grout, you must first clean it of dust and wait for the glue to dry completely.
Top tile grout manufacturers
Fugues are offered to consumers by many companies. Consider several leading manufacturers that combine quality and ease of use in their products:
- Henkel, a German brand of Ceresit. Huge experience in production various materials for construction has built a reputation as a reliable and serious company that offers its customers excellent products with high performance. The Ceresit grout line allows you to choose the most suitable one without any extra effort.
- Mapei, an Italian company specializing in the production of building products, including fugues various varieties. Among the wide range, you can choose a product for any requirements.
- Atlas, a Polish concern that is not inferior in quality to eminent competitors. It also offers a wide range of products for repair, enjoys well-deserved popularity among buyers.
- Kiilto, Finnish brand representing Construction Materials including epoxy grouts. Is different positive characteristics and high quality, are more often used by professionals.
What brand you would not dare to buy, consider your own requirements. It would not be superfluous to take an interest in the reviews of real users about a particular product on specialized forums, at the same time reading tips on how to properly grout the seams on the tile. Sometimes expensive materials in inept hands turn into unpleasant consequences.
What are the criteria for choosing a grout for the floor
When choosing a fugue, it is worth deciding on several parameters necessary for good shopping. These include:
- tile material;
- compatibility of the fugue and the adhesive used for laying the coating;
- the width of the inter-tile space;
- characteristics of the room with tiled flooring (humidity, intensity of exposure, temperature);
- surface color scheme.
It is also recommended to read the manufacturer's recommendations and detailed instructions according to the application indicated on the package. Pay special attention to the compatibility of the grout and the material from which the tile is made. This criterion is very significant and affects the quality of the work performed.
The joint of porcelain stoneware cannot be rubbed with cement compositions. Epoxy fugue will be the most effective. But consider all the nuances, otherwise the color will be distorted and the top layer of the glaze will be damaged.
In bathrooms, it is advisable to use polymer-cement or polymer grout. It is resistant to moisture and absorbs possible expansion of the material under the influence of temperatures.
Remember that it is better to use the fugues that meet certain parameters and best fit the criteria of your choice, despite the existence of universal compositions. Be guided by the width of the seam - it is proportional to the stability of the grout.
When choosing a color spectrum, they usually prefer a fugue to match the tile or a little darker. If the designer's idea involves the use of a contrasting shade, it is worth remembering that this will not only indicate strict geometric shapes, but also emphasizes all the shortcomings of styling.
Grout tool
Before you properly wipe the tiles on the floor, you need to purchase not only the working mixture itself, but also the tool that will be needed in the process. It can be divided into two main groups: the main set, which is needed regardless of the type of fugue, and the specific one, which is required by certain types of grout. The main ones include the following:
- container for mixing;
- rubber grater and spatula of various widths;
- a piece of foam rubber and soft rags;
- for large volumes - a drill and a mixer nozzle for uniform mixing.
Specific additions to the list can be a fugue gun, a bag of metal nozzle and other tools. Then everything will be done right.
Description of the grouting process
After preparatory work and purchase the necessary mixture, proceed to the process itself. It has some nuances, which we will consider in more detail. This also applies to compliance with the order of actions, and the inadmissibility of certain manipulations.
The first thing to remember is that you cannot start work without waiting for the glue used to lay the coating to dry completely. Be sure to clean the seams from debris with a vacuum cleaner. If the grout is sold in a non-finished form and requires mixing the working solution, strictly follow the instructions and the manufacturer's recommended dosage indicated on the package.
Of course, it is an excellent and practical floor covering. It is especially good in rooms exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Fortunately, on the construction market you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of imitating almost any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only if it can be correctly and accurately laid. And an important role in this procedure is played by final stage- grouting tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that will depend visual effect produced by the coating.
How do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it right and why do you need to do it at all? We will answer all these questions in our review.
What are seams and why overwrite them
During the master, special crosses are laid between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed so that, firstly, the facing material in the end looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, laying is not always carried out on a solid foundation; sometimes there is a floor under the tile, which can be subject to shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these small distances, then ceramic coating may simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab. However, if the joints are left unfilled, over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And so that such problems do not arise, the seam between the tiles is filled with special mixtures- grout.
What are grouts
Before looking for information on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this very grout. Professionals also call it a fugue. The fact is that not every material presented in stores is suitable for a particular room. All grout compositions are divided into types. There are quite a few of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are fugues made on the basis of cement, made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined, which are called epoxy-cement.
The former belong to the category of the simplest and are suitable for use only in those rooms in which there is practically no humidity. If we take into account the fact that it is almost impossible not to wash the floors, then this option may not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with a cement fugue is undesirable.
Epoxy grouts are the highest quality and are suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one significant drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling joints with a width of at least four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. Therefore, the home master is advised to pay attention to the intermediate option, which is ideal for flooring not only in living quarters apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, cement-epoxy fugue is considered for the home universal option, since you can rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with it in almost any room.
How to choose "your" grout
First of all, you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there the optimal width of the seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own dimensions. There are also universal grouts. They can be applied to flooring, the width of the seams of which is from two to twenty-two millimeters.
Then, having chosen the desired composition, pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in a large assortment, but you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that contrasting grout can only be used if you are sure that your tile is laid perfectly. Usually, the best option is to choose a tone that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as him.
Process steps
Before grouting the seams on the tiles on the floor, you must first wait a day after. This time can just be spent on buying a fugue and the necessary tools. The process of grouting itself consists of several stages. These are: preparing the base, diluting the grout (unless, of course, you purchased it ready-made, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying the mortar to the seams, removing excess and final cleaning.
What will the master need to have for the grouting procedure
Special equipment and tools are not required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the trowel itself must already be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold already ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in every way, since it is much easier to rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the desired consistency. It is quite difficult to achieve the latter for a not quite skillful master, who performs this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading the first time.
However, such a fugue also has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, in addition to the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remains of an expensive mixture, most likely, will have to be thrown away. So experts recommend that novice craftsmen still purchase dry grouts. And since such a thing, it is required to have on hand in this case also a container for breeding. You will also need a trowel, a special spatula (rubber), a foam sponge and clean rags, a bucket of water, gloves and an abrasive grater.
Training
The tiled floor must be carefully cleaned of tile adhesive, if any, as well as dirt and dust. It also does not hurt to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush along the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them with plenty of water. After that, you can start breeding grout.
How to breed fugu
First, experts recommend carefully reading the instructions. Despite the fact that the grout dilution procedure is, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. Therefore, do not be lazy and carefully study what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the rate indicated on the package and pour the puffer into it. Mix everything carefully. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can start working. It is necessary to grout only with gloves, since the mixture is quite capable of corroding the skin of the hands with prolonged contact.
Advice from experts! Since the novice master does not yet have the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is better not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first, and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for kneading, it must also be divided by half.
We rub the seams on the floor
The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since it will not be necessary to work immediately on the entire territory, but to process tiles literally per square meter, experts recommend moistening a couple of “squares” with water again immediately before the process itself. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m in twenty minutes. A novice master will not be able to achieve such a speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here is accuracy and careful observance of technology. Well, the fact that you finish the work an hour or two later does not really matter.
So, how to properly grout tiles? Apply a puffer to the rubber spatula and begin to fill the seams with diagonal movements. And do not just smear on top, but try to press the composition, as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled joint coincides in level with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any recesses or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grout the tiles on the floor in stages, work this way for about half an hour. After that, proceed to cleaning the jointed area.
To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, go through the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove excess from the tile itself and the seams. If stains remain on the tile - this is not a problem. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on ceramics. It won't be easy to remove it later. After you have processed one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are worn.
Finishing
After a day, you can begin to correct. It may well be that in some places the seams are not uniform enough. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend in this case to take either a grater and go through all the seams with them, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, you need to remove it with a vacuum cleaner, and then again take up wet cleaning. That is, thoroughly rinse the seams and tiles with a foam rubber sponge, periodically changing the dirty water. After the floor dries, stains may remain on it. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but simply carefully wipe it with a dry cloth. On this, the procedure can be considered completed.
How to grout tiles in the bathroom on the floor
Just like in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - covering the joints with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and even on the walls, turn black from mold. And to prevent this from happening, buy a special sealant. It represents a liquid. It should be applied three days after grouting (you need to let the fugue dry). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently coat the seams with it.
Conclusion
We tried to tell as much as possible in detail about how to overwrite the tiles on the floor. And at the same time they shared the secrets of experienced craftsmen and gave recommendations from specialists. We hope that now you will not have any difficulties with grouting tile joints.