Cinder block is an artificial wall stone made from a mixture of slag and cement, intended for the construction of walls of one-story buildings. It is also used as an additional insulation during construction. frame houses... The production of this material is also possible at home on your own. It is not recommended to make only foundation panels yourself. The requirements for the reliability of the building foundation are very high, so it is better not to save money and buy ready-made elements.
There are such varieties:
- full-bodied - have the greatest strength, are intended for the construction of load-bearing walls and partitions, cladding;
- hollow with a degree of voidness of 40% - they have higher heat and sound insulating properties due to the presence of cavities inside, they are cheaper, but inferior in strength due to the thinness of the walls;
- hollow with a degree of voidness from 25 to 30% - have optimal proportions in terms of thermal conductivity and strength, the most popular.
Depending on the thickness, the blocks are:
- wall - standard size 390 x 190 x 188 mm;
- partition walls - 390 x 90 x 188 mm.
In case of self-production, the dimensions can be arbitrary, required condition- dimensional stability.
Specifications
- Cinder blocks have a relatively low coefficient of thermal conductivity - from 0.20 to 0.65 W / m3 (better than brick). Due to this, they are often used not only as a structural material, but also as a heater.
- Density - from 750 to 1450 kg / m3. It differs from all other types in high strength - grade from M35 to M125. The parameter must be taken into account when designing communications, since it is difficult to cut.
- Frost resistance is up to 50 freeze-thaw cycles without visible damage.
Advantages:
- low price;
- availability and variety of materials for manufacturing, the possibility of obtaining products with the right set parameters suitable for specific purposes;
- benefits for the environment - due to the use of waste from the metallurgical industry (slag), as well as the breakage of bricks and concrete remaining during the demolition of old buildings, the number of construction waste dumps is reduced;
- fire resistance;
- is not a favorable environment for the development of fungi, mold, is not susceptible to spoilage by rodents;
- ease of wall installation.
Disadvantages:
- very high degree hygroscopicity - strongly absorbs moisture from the air, a reliable lining is required on both sides;
- the presence of substances hazardous to health (sulfur) - for their complete weathering, the blocks are kept on outdoors at least a year, upon purchase it is necessary to check the environmental safety certificate;
- due to the need for high-quality waterproofing, cladding, the total cost of the building is slightly lower than when using more expensive building materials; significant savings are obtained only when making with your own hands.
Cinder concrete is often used to build utility, utility, production facilities, and garages.
About slag for block production
This is a silicate waste from metal processing, it is sieved through a sieve. Slag obtained from incineration of various types solid fuel(coal, firewood), contains radioactive components, therefore it is not used for the construction of residential premises.
Slag varieties:
- granular (granulated slag);
- non-granular.
For the manufacture of building blocks, the largest fraction of granular waste is selected, the smaller (non-granular) ones are used for the production of asphalt and paving slabs. The price for 1 ton of material is from 100 rubles. Distinguish between wastes of non-ferrous and ferrous metallurgy (blast furnace), the second option is preferable, since those obtained during the processing of non-ferrous metals are more expensive.
The composition of the mixture for obtaining blocks
As a binder, cement of a grade not lower than M400 is selected. The filler either completely consists of slag, or mixed - add in a small ratio crushed stone (secondary is acceptable), ordinary or expanded clay sand, fine expanded clay, crushed brick. Proportions for cinder blocks: 8-9 parts of filler 1.5-2 parts of binder. If the cement is M500, then it can be taken about 15% less than M400.
Slag usually accounts for at least 65% of the total aggregate volume. For example, out of 9 parts, at least 6 fall on it, the rest is supplemented with sand, crushed stone. But it is theoretically possible to use brick or concrete battle, screening for do-it-yourself production. Regardless of the type of material, it is customary to conventionally call such products cinder concrete. Classic proportions: 2 parts of sand, 2 parts of crushed stone, 7 parts of slag, 2 parts of M400 Portland cement.
Water is added in a ratio of about 0.5 parts. The finished mixture is semi-dry. To test the quality, a handful is thrown onto a hard surface. If the lump has crumbled, but upon compression it easily regains its former shape, then the composition is suitable for use.
To obtain a color block, add colored chalk or crushed brick chips. To increase the strength, professional plasticizers are introduced. Sometimes gypsum, sawdust, and ash are added as a partial replacement for slag.
It is better to mix the components in a concrete mixer or mixer, but such equipment is expensive. A small amount is kneaded by hand, a laborious process.
Cinder block production technology
They are made in two ways:
- manually - the quality of finished products is low, uneven, but generally meets the requirements of standards;
- vibrocasting, using a vibrating table or vibrating table - they are more durable.
In large volumes, they are made by vibrocompression. Equipment for this method is expensive, so it is not suitable for home production. The room should be well ventilated with a flat, hard floor. it necessary condition for drying and storage.
Regardless of the method chosen, the prepared mixture is preliminarily placed in special rectangular frames. They are made of plastic wooden planks or metal sheets, always collapsible and without a bottom - for easy removal. For the same purpose, before pouring, the walls are lubricated with grease or soapy water. It is more convenient to use formwork from several cells (usually from 4 to 6). When made from wood, boards with an absolutely smooth surface are chosen, otherwise, when stripping, knots and irregularities will cling.
To the bottom of the mold for hollow blocks, hollow formers are additionally attached - cylindrical or rectangular made of metal or wood. Instead of them, you can put glass bottles, after the mixture has solidified, they are taken out.
2. Do-it-yourself machine.
Simple finished machine for cinder blocks costs from 6500 rubles. But if you want and have a set necessary tools and its parts are easy to make at home yourself.
Procedure:
- Weld from four steel sheets 3-4 mm thick rectangular shape without a bottom with an internal dimension of 390x190x190 mm.
- Weld a steel strip along the perimeter of the top of the box.
- Weld guides to the lower parts of the short sides for easy removal and movement of the machine.
- Cut three pieces of equal length from a round metal pipe with a diameter of about 6 cm.
- Install the segments in a vertical position in a row along one line at a distance of about 4 cm from each other and connect them by welding or gluing jumpers between them. Jumpers should also be attached to the outer sides of the outermost pipes to connect to the walls. The exact dimensions of all parts depend on the diameter of the core former and the length of the box.
- Close the pipes from above with plugs. Insert the pipe structure into the mold and attach.
- Install height stops on the inner walls of the box.
- Attach handles to the short sides.
- Cut out the pressure cover from the fifth steel sheet. During the production of blocks, it is put on the hollow formers, so that they protrude. Therefore, the lid must have slots for pipes and bridges between them, larger in size by 1-2 mm.
- From above, weld two U-shaped handles to the resulting part. They are installed vertically along the short sides of the lid.
- Attach the platform vibrator motor to one of the long sides of the mold with bolts or welded pins. Since its cost is relatively high and it is difficult to acquire it, it is possible to use a twin-shaft motor from washing machine... Balancers are attached to a homemade engine.
3. Making blocks from cinder-concrete by hand.
- Spread plastic wrap on a flat surface or floor. Put smeared molds on it.
- Prepare the mixture according to the recommended proportions.
- Distribute it by shapes. For hollow blocks, insert bottles (if no hollow cores are available).
- Smooth the surface, remove excess mortar.
- Remove the bottles after 5 hours.
- Retrieve the blocks after 24 hours.
- Spread out on a flat horizontal plane.
- After a week, fold in several rows and leave to dry for another 21 days. During the drying process, they are covered with foil. Optimum conditions are air temperature from +20 to + 25 ° C, no direct sunlight.
In the presence of a vibrating table, the molds are installed on its surface. Vibration is turned on for about a minute. The exact time is best determined empirically by making test bricks. Excessive vibration exposure will result in poor quality. Then structures with a rammed mixture are removed from the table and treated in the same way as in hand made(see p. 5-8 instructions).
4. Production of cinder blocks with your own hands at home on a vibrating machine.
Manufacturing scheme using a simple machine:
- Spread pieces of plywood or OSB on the floor 500x300 mm in size. They will serve as substrates for blocks.
- Place the machine on the first plywood sheet.
- Prepare the composition, observing the recommended proportions.
- Fill in the form.
- Turn on the engine for 20-30 s (for more precise definition for the optimal time of exposure of the vibrator to the cinder concrete, it is recommended to make test bricks and evaluate their strength, the uniformity of the finished material).
- Turn off vibration - the mixture settles for a few centimeters, fill the box to the top again. Switch on the motor and press down the cover. It should rest against the height stops on the inner walls.
- After turning off vibration, remove the machine from the block and move it to the next substrate.
- Repeat all steps on each prepared plywood sheet.
Ready times and drying conditions are the same as for manual production.
To make homemade blocks, only a few molds are required for their casting, as well as cement, sand and filler - slag or broken brick. Other types of fillers (gravel or crushed stone) will make the block very heavy, and in addition, a wall made of such material will heat up faster in summer and cool down in winter. If, however, expanded clay is used as a filler, then, although it has almost the same thermal insulation properties with broken brick and slag, it will cost several times more.
Forms for the manufacture of building concrete blocks
For self-made building blocks at home, you will need special metal or wooden forms, the internal dimensions of which are different: 150 x 150 x 300 mm, 175 x 175 x 350 mm or 200 x 200 x 400 mm. With small blocks, it is more convenient to masonry, and with large blocks, construction is faster.
For the manufacture of a metal collapsible mold for one block, you will need four rectangular iron plates with a thickness of 3-4 mm (the height, width and length of the plates will depend on the chosen size of the mold). On the sides of the plates, fastening grooves must be cut, and handles must be welded to the end parts of the form. For a four-block mold, you will need to make two rectangular plates and five smaller plates to separate future blocks in the mold.
To make concrete blocks with your own hands, compaction and the creation of bubbles in them are required, for this purpose it is necessary to make special device... It will require one rectangular iron plate (by the size of the shape), a small piece of wire rod with a cross section of 10 mm and three trims of a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 150 mm. Four "teeth" must be cut at one end of each pipe. triangular to a depth of 50 mm. Then these teeth must be connected together so that a cone is obtained. The seams between the teeth must be carefully welded. Then, to one of the planes of the plate, you need to weld a handle from a wire rod, and to the other - cutting pipes with a blunt end.
Wooden collapsible form 
Wooden collapsible form
For the manufacture of a wooden collapsible form, you will need four trimming boards with a thickness of 35-50 mm (the dimensions will depend on the size of the selected form). Of course, wood is a weaker material for form, so boards need high quality and strong ones. All connections in wood form must be secured with tie-down screws. Otherwise, the construction of a wooden form is the same as that of a metal one. The handles for the mold can be made from wire rod with a cross section of 10 mm by flattening its ends and drilling holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm in them.
To make building blocks with your own hands, you need to make a mortar of cement, sand and aggregate (slag or broken brick) in a ratio of 1: 4: 6. When adding aggregate to the mortar, make sure that it is viscous and sticky, but does not turn out to be liquid or crumbly. Then the solution is poured into molds, in which in hot weather it will solidify within 2 hours, and the final strength will acquire in 1-1.5 days. In cool weather (+7 ... + 18 С), the time of hardening and complete drying increases 3-5 times, and at temperatures below +7 ° С and during precipitation, blocks are generally not recommended.
If slag is used for the solution together with cement, sand can be completely abandoned, and then the ratio of cement and slag should be 1: 6 or even 1: 8.
Before pouring the solution into the mold, it is necessary to moisten all its parts, regardless of the material of manufacture, with water. You should work on a flat surface and fill the form with a solution of 2/3 or 3/4 of the volume ( exact amount determined empirically after using a device for making voids).
After the block has completely solidified, it must be freed from parts of the form. The wet block must be left to dry completely, and the parts of the mold must be filled with water.
You can make blocks directly at the construction site, that is, fill in place. In this case, the dimensions of the casting mold can be increased to 330 x 300 x 600 mm. This will further speed up the construction process.
Consistency cement mortar and the filling method is the same as in the previous case. Can be welded in working structure several forms (3-4 forms are enough), and then the laying will go even faster.
To cement mix does not stick to the walls of the mold, before pouring its inner cavity must be abundantly moistened with water or lubricated with used machine oil. After the mixture has set, the mold plates are detached from the block walls. In the process of erecting walls, it is necessary to verify the horizontality and verticality of the rows. In general, the laying of the corners, the sling between the blocks fully correspond to the methods brickwork in half a brick.
Saman - a mixture of clay and straw, for making homemade blocks
The cheapest building material for self-made concrete blocks at home is adobe - a mixture of clay and straw. Cheapness is not the only advantage of adobe - it is a durable material, with high thermal insulation properties, easy to "produce". For the manufacture of adobe blocks, collapsible metal or wooden forms are also used. Better to make blocks small size, maximum 150 x 150 x 300 mm, since larger blocks are heavy and inconvenient to work and, moreover, voids cannot be made in them.
On a note!
The disadvantage of adobe is the instability to moisture. Before erecting adobe walls, it is necessary to ensure reliable waterproofing of the foundation, and finished walls require plastering with cement-sand mortar, covering with any available polymer or metal mesh and finishing.
Home making concrete blocks for construction
The order of work in the construction and manufacture of concrete blocks is standard: first you need to choose a place, then make a foundation - here you need to build a slab foundation, you can use foundation slabs, bring communications, erect walls, build a roof, install windows and doors and perform cladding and interior decoration summer kitchen.
The walls are laid out in half a brick; for a summer kitchen, the wall thickness can be one brick - and that will be enough. As the masonry progresses, it is necessary to align the walls vertically and horizontally using a plumb line and a cord stretched horizontally from one corner of the house to another.
Home production of building blocks allows you to reduce the cost of laying openings with the subsequent installation of windows and doors. During construction, door and window openings must be made in the building box. It is necessary to establish the location of windows and doors at the planning stage. It is possible in the process of laying the walls in the places where doors and windows are installed, leave openings of the required width, as well as insert wooden plugs, to which the stretcher boxes will then be attached. Wooden plugs must be inserted in the second row relative to the bottom of the box and in the penultimate row relative to the top of the box. At the top level of the box, a 120 mm thick reinforced lintel or 70 mm thick timber should be installed. The ends of the lintel must be brought to the walls by 20 cm.If the planes of the next row of masonry and the upper part of the frame are at different levels, you will need to catch up with them to the desired height using parts of the blocks and mortar, or assemble the formwork, tie the reinforcement and fill it with cement mortar.
After the walls have been erected, the boxes should be installed in the places reserved for the windows and the door, having previously wedged the corners. Next, you need to align them horizontally and vertically, and only after that you can attach the side parts of the box to wooden corks using nails or screws. The remaining space between the walls, foundation, lintel and box must be filled around the perimeter with acrylic foam.
The second way of arranging door and window openings is when door and window frames are installed in the right places, and then lined with blocks. Usually this method is used when decorative masonry, when further wall decoration is not provided.
In this case, so that the door frame does not lead during the masonry process, you need to clamp it on both sides with blocks during the masonry of the first row, having previously inserted it into the corners of the support. After the second row, you need to align the box vertically and horizontally, fix it with nails or screws on the sides to the wall. It is also necessary to leave a release of 10 cm. Then you need to apply a solution to the outlets and clamp them with a block of the next row, once again making sure that the box is level. The same must be done in the upper part of the door frame, as well as on the fourth and sixth rows with the window frame. Jumpers are installed here in the same way as in the first method.
Cinder blocks are a popular building material from which buildings and structures for various purposes are erected. Since they are easy to make at home, cinder block machines are in rather high demand. If you have free time and desire, then you can try to build this equipment yourself.
The popularity of cinder blocks (as well as foam blocks) in their unique composition, and machines for making cinder blocks not only make it possible to obtain high-quality building materials with limited funds, but also make it possible to manufacture them for sale. For many, the production of cinder blocks has become a profitable business that brings tangible income.
- Cement;
- Granular slag (which is a waste of the foundry);
- Special fillers.
The result is blocks that are distinguished by high sound and heat insulation performance.
Making a mold for a cinder block
On the network you can find drawings of a machine for making cinder blocks of varying complexity, according to which you can build it yourself. These devices make it possible to obtain both hollow and solid blocks. The simplest device is a collapsible form without a vibrator.
In this form, a concrete solution with a high water content is used. It is also called "soft".
Sequence of obtaining blocks in a simple form
- Filling the mold box or matrix with concrete;
- Keeping the solution in the form until setting (several hours);
- Disassembly of the mold - the block comes in a free state.
Advice. It is convenient to form voids in the blocks using champagne bottles, which are well-sized and do not break because they have thick walls.
Walls and bottoms in these molds can be made from metal plates or plywood sheets. Before pouring the solution into the mold, it should be lubricated with used machine oil.
Homemade machines with a vibrating device
Vibrating machines for the manufacture of cinder blocks are more advanced equipment. It is faster and more convenient to receive blocks on them, since there is no need to wait for the mortar to set. In this case, the concrete solution is prepared harder and thicker, it should have a slight shrinkage.
Technically, this is done in two ways:
- using a vibration table;
- equipping the mold itself with an engine, on the shaft of which an eccentric with an offset center of gravity is installed.
The eccentric machine is more convenient for the production of a large amount of material, since it allows you to get a finished block in one go without turning over.
Related articles:
Homemade machine according to the scheme "laying hen"
The above drawing of a machine for making a cinder block is one of the most simple.
Its design includes the following basic elements:
- forming box - matrix (it has no bottom);
- vibrator on the side wall;
- drawer handles designed for easy removal without damaging the shape of the impression;
- replaceable sets of pressure plates;
- void formers for various shapes of voids.
The current standard provides fixed dimensions one such block - 39 x 19 x 18.8 cm... In this case, voidness should not exceed 30% .
Making a matrix
- Taken sheet metal(from 3 mm);
- A shape is cut from the sheet to the size of one block (5 cm is added to the indicated dimensions for tamping);
- A through box is formed (there is no bottom);
Important. It is necessary to weld the sheets from the outside, this will prevent the violation of the correct geometry.
- Special strips welded from the ends give greater stability to the box. For this are used shaped pipes with a small section;
- Upholstery is performed on the base of the matrix sheet rubber, which will serve to protect the lower edges of the matrix from deformation;
- A border apron is formed, which will prevent the solution from spilling out when filling out the form;
- Handles are attached.
Machine diagram
Below is an exact drawing of the cinder block machine with the exact dimensions. Voids can be formed of various shapes(rectangular or round).
Important. The entraiser should have a conical shape, which will allow the matrix to be easily removed from the raw cinder block.
Well suited for the manufacture of a core former round pipes... In this case, the workpiece can be tapered using a lathe.
The vibrator is made from an electric motor low power... Suitable for this, for example, a motor from washing machine capacity in 150 - 200 watts... The centers are displaced as follows.
An eccentric is attached to the motor axis, which can be made from metal bar with an asymmetrically located hole. Dimensions, weight and shape must be determined experimentally. If the eccentric value is too large, the vibration will be excessive, as a result of which the concrete impression will fall apart.
This design can be improved by installing a mobile platform with levers. This will make it easier to lift and move around the vibrating machine area.
Stages of the cinder block manufacturing process
- The formation of blocks is carried out in special forms that are pre-wetted. The solution is laid in them. The molds are placed on a vibrating plate, which turns on for a few seconds (5 - 7 s);
- As the solution settles, it must be added. When you turn on the vibratory plate again, you must wait for the clamp to completely drop to the stops. This will indicate that the formation is complete. After 5 - 10 seconds (even before the motor stops completely), the form should be removed;
- The finished blocks must be dried. This process takes from a week to a month. Drying time depends on conditions (humidity, temperature, etc.);
- The given equipment allows, when working together, to perform up to seventy blocks in an hour. If the amount is small, the solution can be mixed by hand. However, a concrete mixer allows you to get a higher quality material and end product;
- After the cinder blocks are dry, they can be used to build walls - it's easy to build from blocks. In this case, it is necessary to follow simple rules - for the first two weeks, the blocks are watered;
- After that, the outside should be covered with a double layer of plaster. This will prevent the rain from washing out the slag. In a year, the material will evaporate harmful substances and after that you can go to interior decoration and roofing works.
Homemade machine for the production of building blocks with your own hands
The modern building materials market offers a wide range of wall blocks. But not everyone knows that it is quite possible to reduce the cost of building a private house, summer house, garage or utility room. It is enough, instead of buying a brick or cinder block, to make them yourself. To do this, you need to use a machine for the production of blocks, and if the budget does not allow, make a vibratory pressing machine yourself.
Inexpensive factory models of vibrating machines are not distinguished by high productivity, but this is not required for private use. True, to buy a machine for construction small house where about a thousand blocks are required standard size, - will not be entirely profitable. Therefore, as an option, you can consider renting equipment for a certain period. This will be enough for the procurement of building materials for future use.
Do-it-yourself factory machine for making building blocks
Varieties of building blocks
Brick is still the main material in the construction of high-rise buildings, but for low-rise construction it is cheaper to use other building materials. If you exclude wood, which is now expensive, the choice will still be varied. Modern wall materials are made from:
- foam concrete;
- slag concrete;
- aerated concrete;
- expanded clay concrete.
Block characteristics comparison table
As a filler for cinder blocks, a variety of and sometimes exotic materials are used that are industrial waste: screenings, glass and brick breakage, sawdust, wood chips.
Let us first consider how expanded clay blocks and cinder blocks are independently made, as the most budgetary among all the above building materials.
Do-it-yourself expanded clay blocks
If in your region there are no problems with expanded clay, you can consider that you are lucky: expanded clay concrete, despite its cheapness, is rarely found on sale, but this building material is characterized by a whole range positive properties. For the manufacture of expanded clay blocks you will need:
- actually expanded clay;
- cement;
- sand;
- water.
The main material for creating a mixture will be fine expanded clay.
When mixing the solution, it is important to adhere to a certain sequence: expanded clay is added to the water, then cement, and finally sand. The proportions of the solution are as follows: for nine liters of water, use 54 kg of expanded clay, 9 kg of cement and 27 kg of sand. You get a mixture weighing about 100 kilograms, with the output of finished blocks in the amount of 9-10 pieces.
Manufacturing technology of expanded clay concrete blocks
If it is not possible to use a specialized machine (such equipment is not cheap), expanded clay concrete can be produced on a non-industrial scale using special matrices. You will also need a suitable container for mortar, a level platform and formwork made of wood or metal in the shape of the letter "E".
A concrete mixer - a standard equipment in a builder's arsenal - will reduce temporary losses and reduce labor costs. With a shortage of time, the problem is solved by using a vibrating table, uncomplicated model you can make such a machine yourself.
To do this, it is enough to attach a low-power, but high-speed electric motor to the form, which is converted with the help of an eccentric into a full-fledged vibrator. The vibrations of the matrix force the mixture to be distributed in the mold as tightly and evenly as possible, improving strength characteristics finished products. Factory-made vibropresses have the maximum performance: professional machines are equipped with additional equipment, allowing you to automate the process, eliminating the heavy manual labor... But there are a lot of such vibropressing machines.
DIY cinder block production
Expanded clay is beautiful and inexpensive material for the manufacture of building blocks, but even more in an economical way construction is the use of cinder blocks. Possessing comparable characteristics in terms of sound and heat insulation, slag concrete is made of materials, the cost of which is an order of magnitude lower.
The industry is not interested in making cinder block building material - it is more economically profitable to produce expensive analogs ( building blocks from foam concrete, aerated concrete, brick). But special equipment for the formation of blocks from cinder concrete is on sale, and a lot. The range of prices for such vibrating machines is huge: from simple models with a static matrix, which can be easily assembled in garage conditions from scrap materials, to fully automated lines.
Cinder block: manufacturing technology
A modern cinder block has dimensions of 188x190x390 mm, a solid building material is characterized by sufficient strength for arranging foundations and multi-storey construction, hollow ones are used in all other cases. Voids can be round, rectangular or square, the amount varies from one to 8-10 voids, the void index is in the range of 25-50%. Practically not inferior in strength indicators to monolithic products, hollow cinder blocks allow you to save expensive cement by almost half.
For quick and high-quality mixing of the mixture, it is advisable to use a construction concrete mixer
The filler during production can be:
- coal slag;
- fine gravel;
- crushed stone screening;
- sand;
- waste bricks;
- glass fight;
- ash;
- perlite;
- gypsum;
- sawdust;
- wood chips.
Cinder block is one of the most demanded building materials... It is made according to the method of vibrocompression from a concrete solution. A wide variety of buildings are erected from cinder blocks - from sheds and garages to residential buildings.
Planning to build something out of cinder blocks? Make them yourself! There is nothing complicated in the production technology of these concrete blocks. You need to thoroughly understand the work procedure, find out the basic requirements and adhere to the recipe.
The dimensions of the cinder block are standardized - 188 x 190 x 390 mm. Each block has holes. Usually there are 3. For the manufacture of building elements, a mixture of cement grade not lower than M400, blast furnace slag and coarse sand is used. Additional fillers and plasticizers are often added.
It is possible to make blocks both manually using molds and using equipment with the function of vibrocompression.
On average, one bag of cement is enough to make 36 blocks. The savings are clear.
The cinder block must have correct geometry... Even small irregularities will lead to a deterioration in the quality of the masonry. To get even blocks, the forms need to be filled not just to the brim, but with a small slide, because during vibration, the concrete will slightly settle and settle.
How to prepare the solution?
There is no universal composition of the solution for making cinder blocks - each master has his own unique recipe. In general, it is necessary to focus on the features of the slag composition.
| The constituents | Volume, l, per block | Compressive strength of the dried block, kg / cm2 | Frost resistance of the finished block, cycles | Thermal conductivity coefficient of the finished cinder block |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Slag up to 8 mm | 10 | 30-40 | 30 | 0.35-0,4 |
| Sand up to 3 mm | 1,8 | |||
| Cement | 2,75 | |||
| Water | 1,5 |
There is a standard "factory" recipe, you can focus on it. The proportions are as follows:
- slag - 7 parts;
- sand - 2 parts;
- cement - 1.5 parts;
- water - 1.5-3 parts. More about definition the required amount water will be discussed later.
Helpful advice! Previously, the standard dimensions of cinder blocks were given. However, for private buildings it is more convenient to use products with dimensions of 400x200x200 mm.
In addition to slag, such blocks can include ash, sawdust, gypsum, broken bricks, coal combustion products, gravel and other similar materials.
Take away Special attention determining the required volume of water. It must be added so much that the products do not spread after formation.
You can do a simple test. Drop a handful of the solution on the ground or other surface. If it crumbled, but when pressed back by hands, rejoined into a single mass, the consistency is optimal.
We make cinder blocks by hand
If a not too large-scale construction is planned, the blocks can be made without a vibrating press.
We make the form
We collect the form with dimensions 40x20x20 cm. If you wish, you can adjust the dimensions at your discretion. We use metal sheets or wooden boards to make the mold.
The design is extremely simple: bottom and side walls. We fasten the walls taking into account the selected width and length of the block. The height of the edges of the form must also match the planned height of the building elements.
Helpful advice! You can make molds with cells for the simultaneous production of 4-6 blocks - very convenient. It is only necessary to increase the length and width of the outer edges and install partitions between them.
Prepare empty glass bottles. You will use them to create voids in the blocks.
Fill the blocks
Pour the mortar evenly into the mold to the brim.
We place the bottle with the neck up in the filled mass. We level the pouring surface, removing excess mortar.
We are waiting for about 5 hours and take out the bottles. We leave the cinder blocks in the molds for a day, after which we carefully take them out and lay them on a horizontal surface in stacks.
We leave the blocks to dry for a month. Only after the specified time can the material be used for construction.
Helpful advice! Cover the blocks with plastic wrap while drying. It will protect the products from cracking during the heat and will not let them get wet in case of rain.
We make cinder blocks on the machine
The machine allows you to significantly increase work productivity. The equipment has a fairly simple design.
We collect the machine
The main element of a home-made vibropressing machine is a form (matrix) for slag concrete mortar. By its design, this form is a metal box with internal elements in the form of voids. The restraints for creating voids can also be removable.
Set for work includes the following materials and tools:
First step. We make a shape according to the size of future blocks. Cut from sheet steel side faces matrices. We will make a shape for 2 blocks at once. To do this, we cut out the inner central partition from steel and fix it in the box.
Second step. Determine the height of the elements to decorate the voids.
Important! In accordance with the technology, the height of the voids should be such that the bottom wall has a thickness of 3 cm or more.
Third step. We cut off 6 pieces of pipe along the length of the stop cylinders to form the voids.
Fourth step. We give the pipes a conical shape. To do this, we cut each piece of pipe longitudinally to the middle, squeeze it with a vice and connect it with welding machine... each cone at both ends.
Fifth step. We connect the limiters in a row along the long edge of the cinder block. Add along the edges of the row along a 3 cm thick plate with holes for fastening with lugs.
Sixth step. We make a cut in the middle of each such compartment. We weld the lugs on the back face of the form. They will allow temporary fastening of elements to create voids. Highly convenient solution- it will be possible to remove cylinders and make monolithic blocks.
Compact cinder block machine (press from above)
Seventh step. Outside one of the transverse walls, weld on 4 bolts for the mounting holes of the vibration motor.
Eighth step. With the help of welding, we attach an apron and blades along the edges from the loading side.
Ninth step. We prepare all structural elements for painting - we clean them and carefully polish them.
Tenth step. We make a press. It will look like a plate with holes that repeat the location of the holes in the block.
Important! The diameter of the holes on the plate should exceed the same parameter for the recesses in the block by about 0.5 cm.
We make the plate in such a size and fix it in such a way that it can enter into the depth of the box at the place where the limiters are installed by 5-7 cm.
In conclusion, it remains to weld the handles to the press, cover the structure with a primer mixture and mount the vibration motor.
An ordinary vibration motor can be turned into a suitable Electrical engine... To do this, it is necessary to weld eccentrics onto the motor shafts. We will not bother too much - we will just weld the bolts so that their axes coincide. To regulate the frequency and strength of vibration, screw nuts on the welded bolts.
Making blocks
Recommendations for the preparation of the solution were given above. You can use the standard recipe or modify it as you see fit. The main thing is to get the optimal viscosity. It can be determined "by eye" - the lump of the mixture must keep its shape steadily.
Before loading the mixture, grease the contact metal surfaces with oil. Thanks to this, the solution will not stick to the gland.
We put ready mix into the matrix and start pressing.
We install the filled forms on the vibrating plate and let it compact the solution for 5-15 seconds. After the indicated time, add more solution to the mold, because previously loaded will inevitably settle.
We repeat the process, only this time do not turn off the vibratory plate until the clamp reaches the limiters. We remove the form until the machine stops.
We give the blocks 1-3 days for initial drying, carefully remove them from the blocks, lay them out on a flat horizontal surface and cover with plastic wrap. You can use the material for its intended purpose no earlier than in a month.
Happy work!
Video - Making cinder blocks with your own hands