How to connect a Chinese ceiling fan. Design features and varieties. Chandelier operating modes with control panel

Installation differences

In the hot season, a large ceiling fan is better than other fan models to normalize the microclimate in the room. The air flow from it covers a significant area. And even at low revs, the effect is very pleasant for the residents. The fact that the fan occupies a central position on the ceiling, which is usually used for a chandelier, is not a problem, since in some models the functions of the fan and the chandelier are combined.

But fixing to the ceiling of a conventional chandelier and a combined model are somewhat different. For an ordinary chandelier, a hook is enough, which is provided in any room. It is motionless and other forces besides gravity do not affect it. And when the impeller rotates, a torque occurs. It is directed in the opposite direction of rotation. And this feature should be taken into account by the suspension of a ceiling fan of any design, especially when combined with a chandelier. In the absence of a rigid attachment, when the impeller rotates, axial displacements will appear.

For high ceilings

Plain ceiling fan during these movements it is not striking. But the movement of bulbs in a chandelier with a fan will create an unpleasant light effect in the room. Light and especially shadows will move. If the ceilings in the room are high, false ceilings are usually installed. The base of an ordinary chandelier is made according to the level false ceiling and suspended from a chain or rope. These extension cords cannot be used for a chandelier with a fan. In this case, the best extension cord would be metal pipe... Its diameter should be such that it fits onto the ceiling hook with two holes made near its end. These hook holes must be diametrically opposed.

The pipe is also convenient for placing wires inside it. Although the wires are connected, they actually create two separately working circuits to one device. After all, during the day when the impeller rotates, the light of the lamp is not needed. Therefore, to control lamps in the simplest circuit, the same is required as for a chandelier. And the fan has its own separate circuit. It allows you to adjust the impeller speed. The connection diagram of the simplest model is shown in the image below. It has one lamp and one impeller speed. Therefore, to control such a chandelier - a fan, a switch with two keys is enough.

Variety of models

The number of lamps can be three, five, and sometimes more. The impeller speed can be divided into two or three stages and even be infinitely variable. You can also smoothly regulate the light of the lamps using dimmers. There are many models of such combined structures, and they can hardly be standardized with several schemes. In order not to experience problems with the installation of the wiring diagram for such a chandelier, when buying, you need to make sure that the accompanying documentation is available and everything is clearly stated in it regarding the connection of the product to the mains.

If the wiring diagram for a chandelier with a fan turns out to be too complicated to assemble it with your own hands, there will certainly be specialists who will do everything necessary. When the selected model contains sensors for controlling lighting, or the speed of rotation of the impeller, there is a separate control unit, the possibility of programming is better at the time of purchase to resolve the issue of calling a specialist in order to connect such a chandelier with a fan. With your own hands complex scheme it is possible not only not to assemble, but also to disable something.

Podvi.ru

Chandelier fan wiring diagram

What is the connection diagram of the fan adjacent to the chandelier

The connection plan for a fan with a chandelier is convenient. This device combines two devices in one, to provide general illumination of the room and create air movement in hot, calm weather, while saving on the air conditioner. Most often, such fans are located in office buildings or small rented workshops, but they can also be located in everyday life. When purchasing such a fan, make sure the instructions are included with the kit. Previously, manufacturers added a section on the scheme of work to it, but due to frequent cases of copying, they stopped doing this.

But if you do not go into details, then the plan for connecting ventilation inside the chandelier is quite simple. A motor is built into the illuminator, which can be turned on either by a separate switch or combinations of switching on (repeated switching on), or together with the illuminator. The last fan connection scheme is not recommended for use, and is rather rare. It is not recommended due to the limitation of such a scheme - when the lighting is turned on, the fan always works, which is unnecessary in cold weather. The recommended connection scheme is separate, when the operation of each function is controlled by its own switch.

Simple wiring diagram for fan and chandelier

If you are choosing a fan with a chandelier for your home or home workshop, pay attention to the method of grounding the chandelier, in apartments it is TN-C. In office buildings or cabins, grounding methods may vary, so you can make a mistake. The required number of wires connected to the fan and the shield depends on the grounding. Caution grounding type TT must never come into contact with other electrical devices. If we talk about the TN-C system, then two cables, phase and zero, will be pulled through the shield to the illuminator.

It will be necessary to connect zero and PE at the distributor via the terminals. Attention: follow safety precautions. When working with electrical appliances, it is necessary to de-energize the network, and check with a multimeter that there is no voltage on the wires. Only after that, start working. Use the terminals on the distributor to connect the wires, in no case do not twist.

In new buildings, it is already possible to use the TN-S earthing system. Its use is recommended and prioritized for safety.

The use of TN-S implies the presence of a three-core copper cable in the wiring, one of the cores of which serves to ground the circuit and is connected in the distribution board to the ground electrode. Accordingly, the device must have a grounding cable that connects to this core. The fan connection diagram is different, but it is not possible to voice all of them. When buying, read the instructions, use the suggested recommendation.

ampersite.ru

How to assemble a chandelier with a fan yourself? Simple recommendations with photos

Chandelier wiring diagram with fan

Air circulation is very important, which is why the combination of a ceiling chandelier with a fan creates optimal working conditions. Such lighting devices can provide an inflow fresh air in any season. Reviews of these models indicate that the rotation of its elements does not lower the degree in the room.

For the price, lighting fixtures with a fan are different:

in a low price category, which can be bought inexpensively suck;
at an average price, based on the family budget, choose the appropriate quality;
there are luxury models, their price is quite high.

If someone wondered how to connect a chandelier with a fan yourself in three-phase network, you can find information on this issue here.

Before you start connecting a chandelier with a fan, it is important to decide on the choice of its location so that the light falls evenly without disturbing the overall mood of the room. If you plan to connect it to the place of the last chandelier, then you can skip this item.

Next, determine the approximate weight of the chandelier and if you find that it weighs more than 13-15 kg, you need to install a beam that will help hold the chandelier. If you skip this step, you could damage the wires or the surface of the ceiling. IN ordinary apartments it is unlikely that such a heavy chandelier will be found, therefore, most likely, you can do without installing an auxiliary beam.

Junction box installation

Before you start connecting a chandelier with a fan, you need to connect the junction box to the power cable. This must be done carefully and carefully, following all safety rules.

The heart of the design, that is electrical circuit, should connect at a distance of just over 10 cm with installed box, a supply of wires after connecting the cable is necessary in case of damage to the wires. Then you need to close all the wires with a special cover. All wires should be insulated and the box bolted securely.

There are already many reviews that are full of pleasant words in favor of a similar design. This is not surprising, because buying such a lamp means giving yourself a soft pleasant coolness along with gentle lighting. Air conditioners consume a lot of electricity, which cannot be said about ceiling chandeliers - fans, which you can buy in a specialty store. For example, you can find a high quality, sophisticated and functional model at Leroy Merlin.

Moscow stores have established themselves as reliable suppliers of quality structures, where you can easily find a wide variety of lighting fixtures and inexpensively. A photo of a chandelier with a fan will help you get to know the design better. In addition, the photos that are in this article can be an excellent assistant in choosing a chandelier suitable for dealing with stuffy and stagnant air in the room. The price of a chandelier with a fan is low compared to an air conditioner, and it is more profitable to purchase such a design than an air conditioner and a chandelier separately.

ogodom.ru

How to connect a chandelier with a fan?

The first step is to turn off the plugs in order to de-energize the apartment, if possible, you can de-energize only the area where the chandelier will be installed. It will not be superfluous to make sure that there is no voltage in the sockets of the sockets and on the wires, for this, indicator screwdrivers are used. There should be three wires hanging from the ceiling, usually different colors, you need to make sure that they are in good working order, then remove the insulation from the edges and straighten them along different sides from each other so that there is no possibility of their contact.

There are not many differences in how to connect a chandelier with a fan from connecting a regular chandelier. The main thing is the ceiling box. For such a chandelier, you need to remove the standard ceiling box and install the one that comes with it. As a rule, it should be located on the ceiling rafters, which will securely hold the mechanism during rotation.

Now you need to determine which wires are "phase", and which, in turn, is "zero". To do this, you need to turn on the voltage and check each of them with an indicator: in the case of a "phase" it will glow, there should be two such wires. You can find out which wires are responsible for what on the chandelier by reading the installation instructions or by looking at its diagram.

Then you need to turn off the voltage again and start directly connecting the fan chandelier. To do this, you need to hang it on the ceiling mount and connect the wires according to the principle: phase to phase, zero to zero. On this stage one must take into account important point: the wiring in the apartment and on the chandelier can be made of different materialstherefore it is recommended to use connector blocks. If you are sure that the wires are the same, you can connect them directly to each other.

It is necessary to adjust the height of the chandelier. The distance from the blades to the ceiling should not be less than 25 cm, however, the chandelier should be more than 2 meters above the floor level, otherwise a tall man may be injured. Before you put everything in its place and assemble the tools, you need to turn on the voltage and check if everything is working correctly. If not, you need to look for where the error was made.

uznay-kak.ru

Fan-chandelier + photo

Not every family can afford to buy an air conditioner. Therefore, many people prefer to escape the sultry heat with the help of a more budgetary one, but still effective instrument, which assumes the presence of a fan in the design. It has many varieties and modifications, one of which is a chandelier with a fan, when using which you can not only cool, but also get good lighting any room.

Benefits

Previously, such appliances were common in public dining rooms and in large industrial premises. They were not released for use in living conditions... But modern chandeliers are often equipped with a fan, making the ceiling lighting fixture multifunctional.

Among the advantages of chandelier fans are the following:

Design features and varieties

Design options using a fan luminaire of various models and various interiors shown in the video:

Such devices are made from a variety of materials. These are plastic, glass, metal, wood, fabric inserts, etc. It will organically complement any interior, thanks to the variety of offered models.

You can use a ceiling fan for the most different premises, where its functions will become simply irreplaceable:

Many models of these ceiling fans are equipped with additional functions, for example, the ability to change the fan speed, as well as direction, reverse, remote control remote control, and others. They are divided into universal ones that can be used in almost any room, and household ones for home use.

In addition, such a ceiling fan, due to the presence of lighting lamps, can have different kinds backlighting - colored or with halogen lamps.

Selection and connection rules

When choosing a chandelier with a fan, you should pay attention to such device parameters as:

Fan blade diameter. They are chosen depending on the height of the ceilings in the room, and the size of the blades themselves will affect the intensity of the blowing. If the ceiling height is less than 3 meters, then you should choose a ceiling fan with a blade diameter 2-2.5 times less than the area to be blown. In addition, the number of blades can vary from 1 to 10. The most common luminaires with fans of 3-6 blades.
Lighting parameters. In this case, the choice depends on the required lighting level, which varies and changes with different numbers of lamps used and their power, as well as the size of the chandelier itself.

Connecting such a lamp with a fan is quite simple and a person familiar with the installation features of conventional chandeliers will not cause any difficulty. This procedure is facilitated by the wiring diagram for a chandelier with a fan, which is usually included in the delivery set of the device.

For work, you may need accessories and tools such as a construction knife, a screwdriver, a hammer drill (if installation is performed on concrete ceiling), dowels, insulating tape.

Important! When installing such a device, you should take care of the sound insulation of the ceiling structure, if it is made of plasterboard or tensioning systems, since the vibrations generated by the fan can make the use of such a luminaire too noisy.

At the very first stage, a special ceiling hook is fixed on which the entire structure will be held. To do this, a dowel is hammered into the ceiling, and a hook is attached to it. Three wires are used for connection - for the lamp, for ventilation and zero phase.

Attention! If there is no experience in working with electrical communications, then it is better to entrust the installation of the device to professionals.

All wire connections must be insulated. If a two-button switch is used for control, then the wires that leave it in turn are stripped and connected to the wires of the chandelier. In this case, one key turns on the lighting, and the second starts the fan.

Conclusion

Choosing a chandelier equipped with a fan for a room, you can get a multifunctional device that will not only provide the necessary degree of ventilation and coolness in the room, but will also be safe for health. It will also help save space and energy.

bouw.ru

Installing a chandelier with a fan

Since ancient times, people have dreamed of a device that creates a refreshing air stream. The first attempts to assemble a mechanical device capable of replacing and surpassing fans and fans were made in the 16th century. In the 19th century, a device was invented, thanks to the rotating impeller of which the air moved, bringing a feeling of coolness. The impeller was set in motion by the pressure of water, which was supplied through a pipe or hose. There was an attempt to use a steam engine for these purposes.

But ubiquitous similar devices became possible only thanks to Thomas Edison: with the advent of the electric motor, the fan turned from an inefficient and cumbersome structure into an extremely useful devicecreating comfortable conditions.

Since that time, hundreds of models have been created that fully meet the various requirements set.

The types used in everyday life include floor, table and ceiling fans. Next, we will analyze the issues related to the installation of the latest version.

One of the advantages of fans over split systems, in addition to cost effectiveness, is ease of installation, which can be carried out without the involvement of specialists.

Installation of the "ceiling" is a little more complicated than the installation of a conventional chandelier. Therefore, if you have minimal skills in performing electrical work, you can proceed to self-fixing and connecting the device.

Ceiling fans are distinguished by material of manufacture, diameter, number and size of blades, power, design and other parameters.

As a rule, all modern models equipped with a luminaire, and a luminaire, a separate fan, or all together can work.

Ceiling height and room size are the most important selection criteria. The distance between the floor and the blades should not be less than two meters thirty centimeters - such standards are adopted in order to prevent injury from rotating elements.

The traditional and best location for the instrument is in the center of the room. If the room is small, the airflow generated by a single fan can ensure a comfortable stay in it. In the case of a large room area, it may be necessary to install two or more "ceiling".

In some cases, it is required to conduct a separate line from the panel to the installation site - if the laid wiring is not able to withstand the load from the engine and lamps turned on at the same time.

Before starting work, be sure to turn off the electricity. Then you should check the presence of a phase using the indicator - you should not neglect this simple operation, especially since it will not take much time for it.

At the first stage, in addition to turning off the power supply, tools are prepared. If you plan to install the fan in place of the old chandelier, then the next step is to dismantle the lighting fixture.

In most cases, you will also need to replace the ceiling electric box, which, as a rule, is designed for the weight of the chandelier alone. A special block is installed instead of the box.

Next, you need to assemble the structure according to the manufacturer's instructions. Let's clarify right away that in some models the blades and the lamp are screwed on the ceiling after the rod is fixed. In most cases, however, the fan is completely collected at the bottom.

The blades to the rod with an electric motor should be screwed as securely as possible, the lamp is fixed efficiently, but carefully so as not to damage the elements.

The connection wires are pulled out through the center hole.

Do not forget to screw in the lamp and close it with a shade. Now the assembled device must be securely fixed to the ceiling.

on concrete base the device is fixed with dowels, mounting brackets with screws;
if the ceilings are suspended or slatted, the fixing elements are located on the main ceiling. This approach can be easily explained: the significant weight of the "ceiling", reaching more than 20 kilograms, requires high-quality fixing. In addition, it is necessary to provide a gap between the decorative cover and the fasteners so that during engine operation, vibration is not transmitted to the stretched material of the decorative cover and does not create noise.

It is necessary to connect the wires of the fan and wires of the ceiling electric box in the sequence indicated in the instructions, since manufacturers use different color coding.

The fan is usually fixed on a bracket, to the terminal block of which the power supply with grounding is supplied, and then the control unit is connected to the connectors.

After all the connections are made, we proceed to the last phase: we fix the cover, which will give the entire structure aesthetics and completeness.

diskmag.ru

How to connect a fan to a switch

Surely you had to deal with such a situation in your life when an exhaust fan is located in the bathroom and it is turned on using a conventional switch. This is often the way to equip bathrooms in hotels, sanatoriums, boarding houses, guest houses. Maybe someone from your acquaintances or friends saw such a hood? By the way, this is very a good idea... And if your bathroom is not yet equipped with such equipment, we advise you to think about installing it. In this article, we'll talk about the advantages of the device and how to connect a bathroom fan to a switch.

Benefits

The bathroom belongs to rooms with high air humidity. And excess moisture leads to the appearance of fungi and mold, various unpleasant insects, such as centipedes and wood lice. If the bathroom is large, it can be equipped with various furniture (cabinets and shelves), and high humidity causes delamination of materials. The bathrooms also have metal constructions (heated towel rails, towel holders and toilet paper), moisture accelerates their rusting.

Also, humidity is often accompanied by unpleasant odor dampness. It’s even worse when the downstairs neighbors smoke in the bathroom and the ventilation duct carries these smells to you.

Condensation also constantly collects on mirrors and walls, which can lead to premature destruction of the tile.

Natural ventilation does not always cope with humidity and "aromas" in the bathroom, sometimes it is additionally enhanced with the help of exhaust systems. One of these options is the fan.

Channel check

Before connecting the fan, it is necessary to check the condition of the ventilation shaft.

Some people advise this method of bringing a sheet of thin paper to the air vent. It should be attracted if the hood is good. But it is more reliable to check with a flame, you can use matches or a candle. Light a candle and bring it to the hole, the flame should, as it were, stretch towards the channel. If this does not happen and the flame is even, then the ventilation duct is clogged and requires cleaning. To do this, you need to contact special housing and communal services.

Connection methods

Installing a future fan is half the battle, the main thing is to bring a power cable to it. If the bathroom is already done good repair, this will be problematic. Installation would be ideal. ventilation device at the stage renovation works, then the cable can be laid in the walls. Otherwise, he will have to come up with some decoration or plug into an outlet.

Consider the options for connecting a ventilation device:

Scheme of parallel switching on of a fan with a lighting lamp. In this case, both the fan and the lamp will work from one switch at once. That is, the ventilation device will start rotating at the same time as the light is on, and will be in operation as long as the light is on. The undoubted advantage is the simple and cheap implementation of such a scheme. However, there are many downsides. If the switch is off, then the fan is not working, and this is not enough to ventilate the room. We'll have to turn on and additionally leave the light on for a while. On the other hand, the fan will always work when the light is on, and when a person takes water procedures, he does not need these drafts.
Circuit from the switch. This method is definitely good, because it eliminates the stupid work of the hood. That is, the device turns on and off only when needed. You can install the switch separately for the fan, or mount a 2-key switching device and power the lighting from one key, and the ventilation device from the second. With this option, costs will increase, since large quantity cable. After all, the device is already connected directly from the switch with a separate line, and not parallel to the lighting.
The latest models of fans are already equipped with automation, in particular, a timer. To connect such a device, you need a three-core wire or cable, the third core is connected through a lighting lamp and is a signal one. There are two options for such a fan. It can start at the same time as the lighting is turned on, and then turn off after set time... Or vice versa, while the light is on, the engine does not start, and as soon as the light goes out, the fan starts working, and then it turns off after a certain period of time.

There are also fan models that are initially equipped with their own switch. It is shaped like a cord that comes out of the body. Pulling this cord starts and turns off the device. But keep in mind that such models are completely inconvenient to maintain. The fans are usually installed near the ceiling, and this place is difficult to reach to reach the cord every time.

Fan assembly

A two-core cable must be laid to the installation site of the ventilation device. The fan model with a timer is connected to a one- or two-button switch with a three-wire wire (the third wire will be a signal one).

Groove from the junction box to the vent. Remember that you can only gash with vertical or horizontal lines, there should not be any inclined lines. Do not make strobes closer than 10 cm to doorways... Lay the cable in the made strobe and fix it with alabaster or cement mortar... One end of the cable should be led out into the ventilation hole, the other into the junction box.

You can also run the cable in a corrugated pipe. Be sure to make sure that the corrugation is not located across the ventilation opening, it must be moved and secured to the side, otherwise it may obstruct the air flow.

The fan terminals are marked english letters:

"L" for connecting a phase conductor;
"N" to connect the neutral conductor;
"T" - this letter is in models with a timer, it denotes where the signal wire is connected.

In a cable, the cores are usually distinguished by color. Zero core is performed in bluephase in brown or white. Connect the cable cores to the fan terminals accordingly. Check the reliability of the contact connection.

To install the fan in the ventilation duct, first remove the top cover with a mesh. On the bottom panel, to which the device itself is fixed, there are four holes for self-tapping screws (usually they are included in the kit along with the dowels). But if you already have tiles laid and you don't want to drill, use glue such as silicone or liquid nails (anything can happen, suddenly the tile cracks or the glaze chipped). Spread it on the back of the cover, insert the fan into the ventilation hatch, and press the cover firmly against the wall, hold it for 1-2 minutes and release it. Now replace the top decorative cover.

For more information on installing the fan, see this video:

And the connection diagram of a fan with a timer is detailed here:

Switch mounting

To the installation site of the switch, grooves from the junction box must also be made (in the case of walls made of drywall sheets used by corrugated pipe). In the grooves, it is necessary to lay a two-core wire and fix it with a solution. The ends of the wire should be led out into the junction box and into the hole for the switch.

The switch consists of a working part and a protective cover with a key. A socket must be installed in the hole. Now take the working mechanism, its contact part has two terminals for connecting wire cores. One terminal is an incoming contact, a phase conductor from the supply network is connected to it. The second terminal is an outgoing contact, a phase from the fan will be connected to it. Make the necessary connections and check the reliability of the contact connections.

Fix the working mechanism in the socket. Replace the protective cover and put on the key.

If a switch with two buttons is installed, then such a switching device has two output contacts, one of which must be connected to the fan, the second to the lighting device. Accordingly, one key starts the ventilation device, the second turns on the lighting in the bathroom.

Wire connection

The following connections must now be made in the junction box:

Connect the zero core from the supply network to the zero core of the fan.
Connect the phase conductor from the supply network to the conductor that goes to the incoming contact of the switch.
Connect the phase conductor of the fan to the conductor of the wire that goes from the output contact of the switch.

In case of two-button switch in the junction box, there will be additionally the following connections:

The zero core from the supply network will still be connected to the zero of the lamp.
The phase core of the luminaire must be connected to the core of the wire that comes from the second output contact of the switch.

As you can see, nothing complicated. Be sure to consider installing a fan in your bathroom. Now they come up with a lot of fashionable electrical things, but half of them are sheer whim. But the ventilation of such a room as a bathroom is really not an unimportant issue. So this article is relevant and helpful.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the site "Notes of an Electrician".

An acquaintance contacted me with the following problem - his radio-controlled chandelier does not turn on.

Let me remind you that a radio-controlled chandelier can be controlled either from the control panel or by pressing the switch button.

In this case, the chandelier stopped responding to both the remote control and the switch.

I think that the problem is quite relevant, therefore, in hot pursuit, I decided to write an article that will help save finances and deal with such a problem on my own, not only for ordinary citizens-consumers and home craftsmen, but also for electricians who have not yet mastered the connection schemes for such chandeliers.

Before you start troubleshooting and repairing a chandelier with a control panel, you need to know its structure and wiring diagram.

Device and diagram of a chandelier with a control panel

Chandeliers with a control panel can only be with incandescent lamps, can only be with halogen lamps, can only be with lED lamps, and can be combined.

In my example, just the same combined chandelier with halogen lamps and LED backlighting is presented.

This is how it looked when it was brought to me.

Looking at such a node of wires and blocks, there is no desire to understand further, as in principle, and was made by an electrician who was originally invited to troubleshoot. He just took off the chandelier, took his 200 rubles hard-earned money and recommended looking for another electrician to repair this chandelier.

But there is nothing supernatural in the scheme. It is only at first sight that such an impression is created, but believe me, everything is not so complicated.

So, let's go in order.

Of the whole variety of radio-controlled chandeliers, their device consists of the following modules of the same type:

radio control unit (controller complete with control panel)
halogen lamp unit
led lamp unit

Let's consider the purpose of each block separately.

A chandelier radio control unit or controller - in fact, this is a wireless switch that can be controlled using a control panel (CP) or using a conventional one-button switch. This radio control unit is also called a switch, which translated from English means "switch".

The chandelier under consideration has a Y-7E type Wireless Switch radio-controlled unit.

Wireless Switch Y-7E Controller Specifications:

supply voltage 200-240 (V)
number of output channels - 3
voltage of output channels 200-240 (V)
power of each channel is not more than 1000 (W) when connecting incandescent or halogen lamps
power of each channel is not more than 200 (W) when connecting energy-saving lamps
operating range of the control panel - 8 (m)

The connection diagram of the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller is shown on its body.

The controller is powered through a one-button switch (in the diagram it is designated by the letter K) as follows:

phase (L) is connected to the red terminal (Red wire)
zero (N) is connected to the Black wire

For clarity and a better understanding of the chandelier connection diagram with the control panel, I will lay it out sequentially in the form of fragments.

Here is a snippet of the Y-7E controller's power supply through a one-button switch.

For those who have forgotten how the one-button switch is connected -.

The Type Y-7E Wireless Switch has three output channels with the following wire markings:

phase of the first channel - brown wire
phase of the second channel - white wire
phase of the third channel - blue output (Blue wire)
common zero - black wire (Black wire)

The remaining one white conductor is the antenna of the signal receiver from the control panel (CP). You don't need to connect it anywhere.

A fragment of the connection diagram of the Y-7E controller without a connected load.

As you can see, the supply zero (N) and the common zero at the controller output (N) have the same wire color. This is due to the fact that this conductor is single and it does not break in the controller - these two conductors are soldered to one terminal. In principle, they can be swapped.

And here appearance controller board Y-7E, but we'll come back to it later.

As I said just above, our controller has three output channels, which means that three independent lighting groups can be connected to it. In our chandelier these are:

1st group of halogen lamps
2nd group of halogen lamps
lEDs (backlight)

By the way, in addition to three-channel controllers, there are: single-channel, two-channel and even four-channel. The meaning is the same, the difference is only in the number of output channels and the controller control algorithm, so I will not consider them separately.

We figured out the output channels, now let's move on to the loads.

Halogen lamp unit

The halogen lamp unit consists of:

power supply (transformer)
halogen lamps

Here I will only point out that in our chandelier, electronic transformers Jindel GET-08 with a voltage of 220/12 (V) and a power of 160 (W) are used to power halogen lamps.

As a load, 6 halogen lamps with a G4 socket with a power of 20 (W) are connected to the transformer. Each lamp is connected to the terminals of the transformer in parallel.

Attention! Never install high power halogen lamps in the chandelier, otherwise the transformer will fail or the cartridges will melt.

Let's go back to the next fragment of the diagram.

An electronic transformer for the 1st group of halogen lamps is connected to the first channel (Brown wire) of the controller.

The electronic transformer is made, according to the PUE:

phase (input) - brown
zero (input) - blue

Output wires have the following colors:

phase (output) - white
zero (output) - gray

All wire connections in the chandelier are made with insulated end plugs (KIZ).

The plug is made of transparent nylon, through which you can see the depth of entry of the cores into the sleeve and the result obtained after crimping.

Then the resulting insulated connection is further insulated using heat shrink tube, and the tip is pulled together with a tie-clamp. It turns out a fairly reliable and high-quality connection.

An electronic transformer for the 2nd group of halogen lamps is connected to the second channel (White wire) of the controller.

The color coding of the wires here is the same as for the first transformer.

Let me remind you that halogen lamps should not be touched with bare hands behind the bulb - only through a glove, napkin or cloth, otherwise they will quickly fail.

LED block

And it remains to consider the connection diagram of the third channel at the chandelier.

In the chandelier under consideration, a simple Aled (Jindel Electric) GEL-11101 LED driver with a rectified output voltage of 3-3.2 (V) is used to power the LEDs.

The driver is connected to the third channel (Blue wire) of the controller.

Driver wire markings have the following colors:

phase (input) - red
zero (input) - red
"+" (Exit) - black color
"-" - White color

The output of the GEL-11101 driver can be connected from 2 to 22 LEDs. In our case, 15 LEDs are connected, which smoothly change their color during operation.

All LEDs in the chain are connected in series. Naturally, if at least one LED fails, the entire branch will not light up. So if you have stopped burning neon lights in the chandelier, you first need to start by checking the LEDs.

The LEDs are very easy to change. They are simply inserted with their pins (legs) into the corresponding connector. The main thing is to observe the polarity when installing them.

Alternatively, you can install a jumper instead of a burned-out LED. The driver allows you to work with fewer LEDs, but do not get too carried away with this, otherwise the life of the remaining LEDs can be significantly reduced. The jumper can be used as a temporary solution to the problem.

Modes of operation of a chandelier with a control panel

As I said at the beginning of the article, the chandelier can be controlled in two ways: using a remote control (like) and using a conventional one-button switch.

The chandelier control panel is programmed for a specific frequency and radio signal code, and can only work with the controller that came with the kit. Keep in mind that the remote control from another chandelier will not work for you, so if you lose the control panel, you will definitely have to buy another controller.

button A
button B
c button
d button

Pressing button A turns on the first channel of the controller, i.e. the 1st group of halogen lamps will light up. Pressing button A again turns off the first channel. Similarly, with buttons B and C, only they control the second and third channel, respectively. But when you press the D button, all three channels are controlled at once.

If you control the chandelier using a one-key switch, then when the key is turned on for a short time, the first channel will turn on, when the key is turned off and then turned on, the algorithm will switch to turning on the second channel, etc. there is a sequential switching of the controller channels. And then the cycle of channel control is repeated.

With a prolonged power outage, the controller algorithm is reset to its initial state.

In principle, if the batteries run out in the remote control or you have lost it altogether, then it is quite possible to control the chandelier with a switch, although it is not very convenient.

Diagnostics and repair of a chandelier with a control panel with your own hands

We figured out the connection diagram of the chandelier with the control panel, and now we need to diagnose our malfunction.

Let me remind you that the chandelier in question does not turn on, either from the control panel or from the switch.

In principle, everything is simple. Since there is no radio control, it means that the controller (switch) is suspected first of all. But you need to be 100% sure of this. Therefore, I decided to exclude it from the circuit and connect all three lighting groups directly to the 220 (V) network in order to check the health of the electronic transformers for halogen lamps and the driver for LED backlighting.

For this I have put together the following diagram.

As temporary connections, I used.

We turn on the machine and watch. All lamps should light up, provided that they are working and their power supplies are working. As you can see, in my case all the lamps are on, with the exception of a couple of halogen bulbs.

I will immediately replace the burned-out halogens with halogens with similar parameters: base G4, voltage 12 (V), power 20 (W) from the Navigator.

Hence, we draw the obvious conclusion that the cause of the malfunction in the chandelier has been found - the Y-7E switch has failed.

When I looked at the Y-7E board, I did not see any burnt or charred elements.

Only now on the MKR-X2 condenser I noticed some kind of "path", but most likely the factory varnish was so carelessly dropped.

By the way, the controller is powered in a transformerless way according to the scheme with a quenching capacitor, i.e. to the 220 (V) network, the following are connected in series: MKR-X2 capacitor, diode bridge, zener diode and load. The excess mains voltage “drops” on the capacitor, and at the output of the diode bridge the voltage is already about 12-13 (V) DC. The signal receiver is powered from a 5 (V) source, which is converted from a 12 (V) voltage.

Relay coils (blue blocks) are connected to voltage 12 (V), the contacts of which switch the load of the output channels.

As you can see, the relay contacts are designed for currents up to 10 (A) at a voltage of 240 (V), although in technical characteristics the channel power is limited by the power of 1000 (W) or the current of 4.5 (A), i.e. even there is still some margin.

The article is already quite voluminous, so I will tell you about troubleshooting and repairing the Y-7E controller another time - subscribe to the newsletter so as not to miss the release of new and interesting articles.

Now you need to purchase a controller similar in power and number of channels, connect it accordingly and check its functionality.

A friend of mine bought a Sneha B-837 controller. It is quite suitable in terms of power and number of channels. Its cost was 535 rubles (as of the date of this writing).

Similar devices can be purchased at lower prices, for example, on well-known Chinese sites such as AliExpress.

If there is no urgent need for a controller, then the chandelier can be left connected for a while directly from the one-button switch without a controller.

It even comes with a stand for the remote control. It can be placed near a sofa or bed so that the remote control is not lost.

We connect the purchased controller according to the above diagram. The only difference will be in the colors of the wires of its output channels.

The Sneha B-837 controller has three output channels, which have the following wire markings:

phase of the first channel - blue output (Blue)
phase of the second channel - white output (White)
phase of the third channel - yellow output (Yellow)
common zero - black output (Black-Neutral Out)

I connected the wires of the controller with the wires of the chandelier using NShVI bushings with a cross section of 2.5 sq. Mm. I inserted two conductors, crimped them using PKVk-6 press tongs, insulated them and that's it.

We check the operability of the chandelier, both from the control panel and from the switch button. Only instead of a key, I will switch with a two-pole machine.

The chandelier with the control panel is working properly.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in repairing a chandelier with a remote control. The main thing is to consistently check the health of all lamps, electronic transformers, power supplies and the radio control controller.

And by tradition, watch a video based on the materials of this article:

At the end of the article, I would like to add that controllers with a control panel can be used not only as lighting control, but also for other loads, for example, remote control of blinds, curtains, curtain rods, gates and other electrical devices.

Addition. Watch the video where I replaced the transformer for halogen lamps with a similar chandelier:

P.S. That's all. I hope this article will help you understand how to connect and repair a chandelier with a control panel. Thanks for attention.

Purchase FAN BOX in a household or electrical store. It is best to buy an “old style” (not new style) box if you do not have access to the ceiling from above. There are two kinds of boxes old construction: the first is a fan that encloses an existing beam; it is easier to place it, but here it is required to “find” the beam, and not to “go around” it. The second type is on an adjustable hinge that can be extended between two beams, which is more difficult to do, but gives more location options. Both types of designs work equally well.

Once you've determined where to install the fan, “check if you have access to power.” Check out the section below for some tips about the power source. Adjust the location as you need. Then cut a hole there with a drywall saw; it should be just enough to stick your fingers through and check if there are obstacles to the box. Such a small hole is easier to patch if the location is inappropriate.

If there are no obstacles (wires, pipes, pieces of fittings, etc.)then sketch out the fan box on the ceiling where it will be installed and cut a hole through it with a saw.

If the installation is in a kitchen or dining room, then the existing power supply of your choice may contain larger wires, # 12. Regardless of the location, if your power supply is with # 12 wires, you will need to use # 12-2 or # 12-3 instead of # 14-2 or # 14-3 where indicated by the icon below * " (General rule – never do not connect wires with different cross-sections together).

Remove wire # 14-2 * or # 14-3 * from the junction box, where BOTH and # 14 * 120 Volt hot wire AND zero to the fan are disconnected. If your fan is remote controlled, it can be powered directly from a 120 volt outlet. But it will be better if you install and connect a new junction box outside so that it turns on the fan. If you ever decide to remove it and replace it with a chandelier, there will be a ready-made switch on the wall.

Wire # 14-2 * is used if you want: a) turn on / off the fan and lighting (if possible) with one switch; b) turn on / off the fan and / or light with the remote control, which is included with the fan or purchased separately.

Wire No. 14-3 * is needed for: c) turn on the fan independently of the lighting with two switches in one box.

Wire No. 14-3 * provides the possibility of connection options a, b or c with the greatest flexibility at a low cost.

Use suitable connectors where needed, route the wires in the fan housing through the inlets.

Reinforce the fan junction box according to the manufacturer's instructions. All fans vibrate during operation. Your mount has to withstand this constant impact, which is why the NEC (National Electrical Code) mandates the mandatory use of fan boxes. Many people were injured due to installation flaws before the changes were made from NEC. The use of dedicated fan boxes significantly reduces this risk.

Determine if you need a special mount. When angled to the ceiling, some fans require a special sloped mount, which may or may not be included. Most fans have a universal mount that fits both horizontal and tilted positions. Choose what works best for you. Pulling the stem down can lower the fan to the level you require.

Fan wiring

In the fan box: if you are using # 14-2 or # 12-2, connect the wires according to the following standard color scheme: white wire from the box to the white wire of the fan, bare / green wire to the brown / green wire, black to black AND blue (if any) ...

In the fan housing: if the power goes to # 14-3 or # 12-3 then you have black wire, red, white and bare (or green). Connect the wires to the fan as follows: white to white, bare (or green) to brown / green at the fan, black to black, and red to blue.

In the switch box: if there are two wall switches or regulators in the same box, then all grounds (bare and green) are connected together. The green wire or its screw on each switch must be tied to ground. Tighten this joint and press against the back of the box. Connect the white power wire to the white one from the fan, twist and also press against the back of the box. With the switches in the ON / OFF positions, connect a 15-20cm black wire between the black power wire (phase) and screw the top on each switch Connect the red fan wire to the bottom of switch # 1 and the black fan wire to the bottom of switch # 2. If the connection is correct, switch # 1 turns on the light and switch # 2 turns on the fan. If you want to adjust the fan speed from the switch box, then you need to put the fan speed regulator on switch No. 2. To adjust the brightness of the lighting, you can put a dimmer in the same place on the switch No. 1.

In the switch box: if there is only one wall switch, then the connection of the white wire and ground is the same as described in the paragraph above. Connect the black power lead (phase) to the switch top screw. If you want to control the lighting through the wall switch, then connect the black wire of the fan to the power, and the red wire of the fan to the switch, then the fan will always have power supply, it will work regardless of the position of the switch in the circuit, while the light will be controlled by the wall switch. In order for the fan to turn on through the wall switch, and the light in a chain, you need to connect the wires in the opposite way.

If there is a control panel, then the white and black wires of the fan are connected directly to the power source, which is always active (socket or branch switch). Mount the remote control signal receiver as described in the instructions, which should be included - most often the power supply wire to the remote input (black to black, white to white) as well as the fan / lighting to the remote output (black to black, white to white, blue to blue).

Cover each connection with an insulating clip. Leave some excess wire on the outside by pushing it down inside the electrical box. When working on the fan wiring, use the “wire hook” that hangs the fan.

Fan assembly

First follow special instructions from the manufacturer. Most of the fan blades are double-mounted, using screws that go through the holes in the blades and in the pins. Collect all this with care, but not tighten too tightly, otherwise you can damage the surface of the blades and break the threads. On many fans you will find pins for mounting on the motor housing. In this case, assemble them before installing them on the blades.

You will need 3 or 4 hands to assemble the fan blades / support and attach to the motor.this is a very inconvenient job.

The manufacturer's instructions may differ, but if the fan blades are less than the length of the screwdriver from the ceiling, it is best to install them before hanging the fan.

Some fans have a “speed ring” that allows you to assemble the blades on the floor and then mount them on the motor after it has been suspended from the ceiling. For this:

Attach each blade to a ring, then attach the ring to the motor using rubber grommets and fastening screws.
Attach the cover to the ring and fit the decorative trim.

Fan suspension

Place the suspension bracket on the body, secure with screws and secure with washers. If there are no washers, then you need to buy them, because vibration from the fan can loosen the screws over time. The bracket can be shaped like a half circle or a hook, depending on your fan. In any case, carefully insert the hook into the bracket. If it is a semicircle, then twist it until the bracket fits into its grooves.

Connect the upper fan socket to the motor housing by tightening the mounting ring. If you have a high ceiling, you can also attach a tubing to the bracket.

Hang the already assembled motor on the two hooks of the mounting bracket

Reconnect the wires, starting at ground. Be sure to connect the black wire from the power supply to the fan and the white wire to the white wire. Connect the ground from the box, fan and power supply together with an insulating clamp. Tuck all the wires inside the top socket and attach it to the bracket.

Install the cover all the way to the ceiling and tighten there.

Connect the fan motor to the bracket by securing it with screws. Turn on the power and make sure the connection is working - remember that both wall switches and the power cord on the fan must be in the ON position.

Lighting installation (if applicable)

Connect the connectors of the two white wires and the black wire of the chandelier to the marked bracket wires. If the fan and the light have a plug and socket for connection, then simply connect them by inserting the plug into the socket. Screw the lighting kit to the fan.

Turn on the power and check your connection. Check if the fan is swinging.

Inspect the blades carefully before attaching them to the fan. Blades colliding at the top will upset the balance and can potentially cause problems such as damage to wood or plastic surfaces or bending of the metal blades and bracket. If any of the above is present, it may cause wobble and / or noise during operation, especially at high revs.
For the purposes of this article, a power supply is any constant (which can only be turned off by a switch on the panel or with a fuse) 120 Volt source, consists of a phase (live wire, usually black, less often red or blue) and neutral ( almost always white), bare or green ground wire may also be present. The neutral must be from the same cable as the phase (plastic insulated, armored, etc.). This source does not have to come out as a new line from the panel, but can come from an existing outlet or even branch off the switch where there are at least 2 black and white wire cables in each switch box. An ammeter or tester will help determine which line is (off or source) and charge the (connected) side.
Use only speed controllers (never dimmers) to vary the fan speed.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for balancing. Check the entire fan speed range for balance.
For a discussion of working with a large ceiling fan, use the How to Install a Hugger Ceiling Fan guide.
Make sure the fan runs quietly (if not in a commercial building).
If the fan is installed outdoors, it must be moisture and water resistant.
If you are going to hang the fan in your bedroom or on a high ceiling, make sure it has a wall switch or remote control.
Only "fan boxes" should be used to support the blades. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation. All bolts should be tightened as tightly as possible to prevent fan swinging, loud noise, or rapid wear.
Use the dimmer only to vary the brightness of the lighting. Do not attempt to dim on CFLs unless they are dimmable.
In many cities, only qualified electricians are allowed to do this work.

Warnings

In some areas, it is illegal to install electrical equipment without an electrician's approval.
Do not use a screwdriver to tighten the screws - it is used as long as possible, for final tightening use hand toolsin order to avoid stripping the screws.
In open and humid places, use dedicated fans.
Plastic insulated white wire is not always neutral. If you don't understand the last sentence, then contact a professional.

Not every family can afford to buy an air conditioner. Therefore, many people prefer to escape the sultry heat with the help of a more budgetary, but still effective device, which assumes the presence of a fan in the design. It has many varieties and modifications, one of which is a chandelier with a fan, when using which you can not only cool, but also get good lighting in any room.

Benefits

Previously, such appliances were common in public dining rooms and in large industrial premises. They were not produced for domestic use. But modern chandeliers are often equipped with a fan, making the ceiling light multi-functional.

Among the advantages of chandelier fans are the following:

Design features and varieties

Design options using a lamp with a fan of various models and in various interiors are shown in the video:

Such devices are made from a variety of materials. These are plastic, glass, metal, wood, fabric inserts, etc. It will organically complement any interior, thanks to the variety of offered models.

You can use a ceiling fan for a variety of rooms, where its functions will become simply irreplaceable:

Many models of such ceiling fans are equipped with additional functions, for example, the ability to change the fan speed, as well as direction, reverse, remote control, and others. They are divided into universal ones that can be used in almost any room, and household ones for home use.

In addition, such a ceiling fan, due to the presence of lighting lamps, can have various types of illumination - colored or with halogen lamps.

Selection and connection rules

When choosing a chandelier with a fan, you should pay attention to such device parameters as:

Fan blade diameter. They are chosen depending on the height of the ceilings in the room, and the size of the blades themselves will affect the intensity of the blowing. If the ceiling height is less than 3 meters, then you should choose a ceiling fan with a blade diameter 2-2.5 times less than the area to be blown. In addition, the number of blades can vary from 1 to 10. The most common luminaires with fans of 3-6 blades.
Lighting parameters. In this case, the choice depends on the required lighting level, which varies and changes with different numbers of lamps used and their power, as well as the size of the chandelier itself.

Interesting! The device can be controlled both by means of a remote control panel and by means of mechanical switches, which are located both on the device itself, and can be brought out to a general switch.

For work, you may need accessories and tools such as a construction knife, a screwdriver, a hammer drill (if installed on a concrete ceiling), dowels, and electrical tape.

Simple wiring diagram for fan and chandelier

In new buildings, it is already possible to use the TN-S earthing system. Its use is recommended and prioritized for safety.