How to make a wooden fence. Beautiful Wooden Fences Antique Fence

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Since ancient times, people have protected their property from others and used various materials for this. But wood was and is one of the most popular raw materials for making fences. Making a fence at home or in the country is not difficult. Further we will tell you how to make a wooden fence in the country with your own hands, without resorting to the help of craftsmen and builders.

Beautiful wooden fence

Unfortunately, in our world, a durable fence is not at all a tribute to fashion. It will protect your yard from unwanted guests, animals (goats, cows, chickens, and so on) and many other adversities. Of course, fences can be of a wide variety of formats, but all basic actions are the same for everyone. And which option you choose is up to you.

Fence selection

Often, a fence is installed not only to outline the boundaries of your land plot, but also to protect against those who want to covet your harvest and property. And also to hide your life from strangers. At the present time, various building materials are available to everyone:

metal mesh;
stone;
polycarbonate and more.

They differ in quality, technical performance and cost. And the format itself depends only on your imagination. The mesh will not protect you from prying eyes, since you can only fence off something with it, and you can see through the holes through the holes. Modern popular materials are quite expensive and not everyone can afford. Stone and brick fences look too massive. heavy. And they are most often used for fences around large cottages and country houses.

If we talk about a wooden fence, then it is quite affordable, and besides, it looks beautiful. An indisputable plus is that it can be built on your own.

When modern materials for fences appeared (for example, corrugated board, reinforced concrete), wooden fences began to be made less often. But still, this trend has changed recently, and the tree is gaining ground. After all, this material not only looks beautiful, but is also natural. Since there are no impurities in the boards chemical substances, and environmental friendliness plays an important role today.

Often wood is used for the construction of wooden fences. conifers, namely: pine and cedar varieties. Such rocks have high moisture resistance rates, they resist decay processes well.

The advantages of building a fence made of wood:

financial availability;
simplicity of work - no special expensive equipment and skills are needed;
does not require special care during operation, you just need to inspect it in a timely manner for damage and contamination;
required for repair minimum investment means and forces;
ease of updating the fence;
durable and lightweight;
looks exquisite.

All these facts indicate that it is more than realistic to create a fence cheaply and beautifully. For the correct construction of a fence made of wood, you must adhere to the sequence of actions and have a little patience. But in the end, everyone can make a wooden fence in the country on their own, and then post a photo of the craft on the Internet.

The main plus of wooden fences is, of course, its low price. Compared to fences made of metal or reinforced concrete, it is several times cheaper. And it's easy to work with wood. So even a beginner in this business can handle it.

In terms of appearance, wood has always been a noble material. Wood products always look presentable and aesthetically pleasing. Plus, these hedges are easy to modify and decorate. It is very easy to create something unique, you just have to show imagination and creativity.

Design of a wooden fence

On the practical side, the ease of repair pleases. Indeed, for a partial replacement, you do not have to completely dismantle the entire structure of the fence, which greatly simplifies the whole process. After all, it would be inconvenient to remove everything, together with the supports, to replace one board.

Despite such significant advantages, wooden fences have nuances:

tree like construction material, requires more frequent and careful attention to itself than other materials. This includes painting, cleaning, impregnating with disinfectants;
the operating period is relatively short - about 5-10 years (directly depends on how often it is looked after and repaired);
high fire hazard, since the tree is very flammable and burns quickly;
easily damaged by shocks and mechanical influences;
will not protect against unwanted intrusive guests and robbers (unless you install an additional security system, which in our time does not hurt at all).

Of course, the nuances must be taken into account when building and using the material. But in this case, the pros far outweigh the cons. Therefore, it is logical that wooden fences are so common throughout the country. Knowing the features of its construction, the features of maintenance and repair, you can provide yourself with a beautiful protection of the yard for a long time.

Step by step construction of a wooden fence

You do not know how to make a wooden fence in the country with your own hands, then you just need to familiarize yourself with the information below. Step by step detailed instructions will help you avoid mistakes and inaccuracies in work, create a unique fence made of wood, which will be an excellent protection for your yard. Let's consider the principle of operation using the example of building a small fence, which is shown in the photo below.

Photo of a fence made of wood

Here used wood planks, the cross-section of which is 25 x 150 mm. Their length is two meters. Of course, you choose the length of the boards yourself, so it will be individual for everyone. The entire height of the finished fence will depend on the length of the boards. So, to build a fence, proceed to the first step of construction. Before starting work, you need to stock up the right materials and tools:

long bars or logs;
planks, picket fence or wood planks;
posts or bars (necessary in order to create support for the future fence);
rope twine;
pegs;
sand;
cement;
bitumen;
shovel;
manual or electric drill;
nails, screws.

Step 1.

Initially, it is necessary to study well the features of your land plot and choose the optimal location for the location of the fence. After that, you need to stock up on pegs. Their length should be 60 cm. At one end, they need to be sharpened. Drive the pegs into the ground along the entire perimeter of the site. The distance between them should be two meters. The last peg should be near the first. In other words, they need to be looped back. When finished, pull the string over the pegs. The rope should be well taut. So you will get the markings of the future fence from the picket fence.

The location of the peg along the perimeter of the territory

Step 2.

You need to choose optimal height future fence. When calculating the height, rely on the fact that:

too low a fence provides a good view of your neighbors and all passers-by;
too high a fence obscures the plantings that are located in the yard.

It is better to choose average heights. Most often, you can find fences, the height of which is in the range of 1.5 - 2.5 m. Having decided on the height, you need to cut the boards of the required length. Also, to save time, you can order their cutting when purchasing material.

Before starting construction, the picket fence must be processed using a grinding machine or conventional drill(place the sanding attachment on it). To create curly or semicircular shapes, they are fixed on the machine and cut to the desired parameters. This will save you money, because ready-made fence boards cost an order of magnitude higher than conventional untreated ones.

Step 3.

It is necessary to take out the pegs one by one, and make wells in the place of the formed pits. Their depth should be at least 50 cm. Supporting elements for the fence will later be installed in these wells. To drill holes, take an electric drill or a hand drill (but this will take longer).

Step 4.

The prepared support elements must be installed in the created wells. For these purposes, you can use various materials: timber made of wood, iron posts, and so on. It is better to take wooden beams, the section of which is 5 x 5 cm or 7.5 x 7.5 cm.

Supports need to be installed in the ground, but be careful that their position is strictly vertical. Use a plumb line or level for control. After installation, you need to fill the hole with earth and at the same time tamp it well. In order for the fence on your land plot to be as strong as possible, the supports can be concreted or cemented. After all, the reliability and general condition of the fence directly depends on how firmly the supporting elements are installed.

Installation of supports for the fence

Step 5.

To align the fence in height, you need to loop the top. To do this, a nail is driven into each support. Then, with the help of a rope, they tightly pull all the bars into a heap.

Step 6.

The next step is to install the veins. For this, wood planks are used. It is better to take a section of 100 x 25 mm. The veins must be positioned so that they are at the same distance from each other. Their height should be about 20-30 cm above the ground. The veins are attached to the beams with screws or nails. The main thing is that their size allows them to pierce the vein through the entire thickness and protrude from the back side by two to three centimeters. Those parts of the fasteners that protrude outward should be carefully bent so that they do not interfere.

Installation of veins

Step 7.

Using nails or screws suitable size, you need to independently install the prepared fence boards. How to do this is up to you. There are various options:

Classic fence. This type can most often be found in the vastness of our country. Such a structure consists of a lag (laid longitudinally) and vertical support posts.

Classic wooden fence

Lattice. It can be created on the basis of a rectangular or square frame. The fence itself resembles a section. The slats are attached to the frame at the desired angle. And already with the second layer, the pillars are installed (perpendicularly). This is what creates the lattice effect. The finished fence looks pretty interesting, and it also provides full ventilation.

Lattice style fence

Ladder. This is a variant of a double-sided wooden fence. It's pretty easy to create. It is necessary to attach vertical logs to longitudinal ones. And then attach the boards so that they overlap.

Wooden fence- woods

Chess. It resembles the classic version of a fence, but the difference is that the crate is not stacked one after another, but in a checkerboard pattern. Having built such a fence in your home, you will retain full ventilation and will well hide the yard from prying eyes;

Fence Chess

Vertical picket fence. It is most often made for fencing small areas, such as: flower beds, beds and other markings in the yard. Its main task is to protect the planting from the raids of pets;
Monolithic or solid: the boards are nailed tightly to each other. In this case, you need to nail the boards end-to-end;

Blank wood fence

Palisade: can be replaced wooden planks on slats of small thickness (section 20 x 50 mm).

Step 8.

At this, the manufacture of a wooden fence comes to an end. After installation, time should be taken to protect the fence. After all, he will have to withstand changing weather conditions and other external factors.

It is necessary to carefully process the entire fence with linseed oil and let it dry. After the drying oil is completely dry, you need to. Better to use frost-resistant acrylic paint... The painting itself is best done in two layers. When the first dries well, cover with the second. Such simple actions will help you keep the fence intact and safe for more than one year.

Design solutions

Upon completion of the work, everyone wants to make the fence a unique creation and somehow decorate it. In fact, wood is such a versatile material that looks good even unpainted. Some people prefer to simply paint the fence using a solid color. Others draw patterns and ornaments that always attract the attention of passers-by.

Painted pattern fence

It is worth noting that a wooden beam by itself is well suited for any design and landscape solution. Moreover, you can always change its design style. You can often find fences that are not painted, but simply varnished. This gives the national flavor and flavor.

Wooden fence in national style

Do you want to make a wooden fence in the country, as in the photo? Then you shouldn't think that the work is over. Like any other structure, fences require attention. Therefore, you need to constantly inspect it. The better you take care of it, the longer it will serve you. It is necessary to follow these recommendations:

You should not start replacing boards or timber in case of failure, as this will deteriorate the fence even faster. Timely repairs and proper maintenance will make your fence not only beautiful, but also durable.

To hide your yard and garden from the encroachments of other people's pets, the glances of passers-by and create coziness in the yard, a wooden fence, which you can make with your own hands without special efforts... It is easy to create, easy to care for. As a result, you will get a beautiful and affordable fence that will delight you and your family. And if you want to learn even more tricks and wisdom about building a wooden fence at home, then watch the video below.

Often, the construction of wooden fences or hedges from other materials is resorted to even before land plot, intended for building a house, did not even begin to import materials. Then such fences are changed to more reliable structures, or vice versa, decorative hedges, but at the initial stage, such a fence can reliably hide an unsightly construction site.

A wooden fence for a summer residence is perhaps the most familiar type of fencing for us. Wood has always been available, it is easy to process, so a wooden fence can be of any size, made in any style and design. The main disadvantage of all types of wooden fences is the need for regular maintenance, since wood is susceptible to rotting under the influence environment... For example, fluctuations in temperature and humidity can cause the boards to crack. Autumn rains and subsequent frosts also cause cracking - wood absorbs moisture, and water, as you know, expands when it freezes. Active bioagents also contribute - various bugs, insects, fungi, etc. Moreover, wood is easily destroyed by fire.

Therefore, the wooden fence has to be regularly treated with anti-rot, fire retardant and other compounds and coatings that reduce negative impact environment. The wooden fence has to be painted at least once every 2-3 years. In addition, every summer it must be examined for the destruction of the paintwork, the appearance of fungus, bugs. The damaged areas are cleaned and covered protective compound... If repair is not possible, the part is replaced.

The advantage in this case is the high maintainability of a hand-made wooden fence - such work does not require qualifications and is not difficult.

An essential advantage of a wooden fence is the ease of installation: a non-specialist can cope with the installation of such a fence, if he does not spare his time and approaches the task with all possible accuracy. Made in accordance with all the rules, a wooden fence made of high-quality materials can last up to 20 years, especially if its installation was carried out in compliance with the technology.

In this article, you will learn how to properly build a ranch-style wooden fence, picket fence, and backyard hedge.

Before making a wooden fence in the country, you need to install supports. Along the line along the boundaries of the site, pillars are dug into the ground, several veins are installed between them (lag, sag, crossbeams), to which other elements filling the span are nailed. You can do without veins by mounting pre-made wooden shields between the pillars, but the pillars must be present in any case. The reliability and durability of the fence and the more so the gate largely depends on the quality of their manufacture and installation.

For the manufacture of pillars and veins, pine or spruce is usually used - they are less susceptible to decay.

It is even better to take larch, chestnut or oak, but such a fence will not be budgetary at all.

The principle of installing all wooden fences with your own hands is almost the same. The distance between the support posts is usually 1.8-2.5 m. This allows you to get a reliable fence with low windage and the optimal number of support posts. If you want to save on poles by increasing the distance between them, then keep in mind that the very first strong wind can simply fill up your fence.

To build a wooden fence as reliable as possible, holes are dug under the posts using garden drill or an ordinary shovel. Before placing wooden supports in the ground, they should be carefully treated to protect them from soil moisture. The old old-fashioned way is to burn the lower part of the posts and treat it with hot resin. The resulting crust will effectively protect the wood from decay. Poles can be treated with hot bitumen. As a protective coating when installing wooden posts for a fence, the "working off" of engine oil is also suitable - any motorist will find it in sufficient quantity and completely free of charge. Sometimes roofing paper is used as protection - it is wrapped around the lower part of the post so that the upper part of the roofing paper protrudes from the ground, and is tightly fixed. However, such protection is not very effective - it protects the wood from contact with the ground, but does not save it from rain, since there is no need to talk about the tightness of such a "wrapper".

To protect the pillars from rain and snow, their top is covered with visors made of waterproof material or cut so that the drops easily flow down and do not linger on the end. In addition, exterior paint can help protect wood from premature decay.

Do-it-yourself wooden fence posts are buried in the ground by at least a quarter of their length. Depending on the degree of heaving and freezing of the soil, the depth of the pits can exceed 1.5 m, but it is not worth deepening the pillars by more than a third.

As shown in the photo, wooden fence posts are installed strictly vertically using a plumb line or level and fixed with temporary supports:

Now they can simply be covered with rubble, carefully tamped, or filled with concrete. But if the soil is heaving, it is not worth concreting the supports. The crushed stone pad plays the role of drainage and makes the soil around the support non-porous.

It is useful to nail a pair of boards perpendicular to its axis to the lower end of the post under a wooden fence. Such a spacer will increase the stability of the support during soil vibrations.

However, no processing is able to prolong the life of wood dug into the ground for a long time, therefore, it is most effective to install pillars on metal anchors or in a concreted sleeve, which excludes direct contact of wood with the ground. Another advantage of this method is that if the pole becomes unusable for one reason or another, it will be much easier to replace it than a concreted support.

To create a sleeve, first, a hole (pit) with a depth of about 1 m is drilled in the ground with a garden drill. Then an asbestos-cement pipe of the same length and diameter corresponding to the section of the column is immersed in the pit. To build a wooden fence with your own hands in dry soils, it is enough to dig the pipe into the ground and carefully tamp the backfill, but more often the pipe is placed in the pit with wedges and the gap is filled - they are covered with stones, gravel, broken brick. The booth is tamped well and covered with sand, spilling water so that it settles and fills the hole tightly.

If the soil is subject to strong seasonal fluctuations, it is advisable to slightly widen the pit downward. The pipe is lowered to the bottom of such a hole, poured not to the top with concrete (cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 2: 2: 3) and the pipe is slightly raised so that part of the solution spreads over the entire bottom of the hole and gives an expansion ("bottom") in the lower part of the resulting pillar. The concrete level in the pipe should be no more than 1/4 - 1/3 of its length. Then the pipe is poured with a solution from the outside. The resulting sole will resist the forces of frost heaving in winter.

Concrete sets in about a day, but it is better to install pillars in such nests not earlier than after 3 days. During this time, all supports can be prepared.

Look at the photo - at the posts for a wooden fence, erected by your own hands, you need to shave off the lower ends and soak them with bitumen or waste oil to protect them from dampness:

The installation method for galvanized anchors depends on their design. There are brackets that are designed to be installed on an existing foundation, to which they are attached with dowels or anchor bolts. Such a foundation can be concrete blocks, sidewalk slabs or the same pipes, concreted into the ground according to the above-described method, but filled with mortar to the top.

To make a wooden fence with your own hands easier, you can avoid the need to dig holes and concrete the base. Then you need metal crutches with a socket for installing the pole. Insert into a rectangular socket wooden block and drive the crutch into the ground, hitting the block with a sledgehammer. In this case, you should periodically check the verticality of the crutch. When only a rectangular bowl remains on the surface, the bar is removed, a pillar is inserted in its place and fixed with screws or nails.

As you can see in the photo, a crutch for a wooden fence, erected in the country with your own hands, can be replaced with a piece of steel profile, previously painted with red lead or Kuzbass varnish and driven into the ground to a sufficient depth or concreted:

Almost any profile is suitable for this purpose - a corner, a rectangular or round pipe, a channel and even just a thick steel strip. A wooden post is attached to this base, nailing it, screwing it in with wire, etc.

There are other ways to install poles for building a wooden fence with your own hands. For example, you can concrete or dig an asbestos-cement or metal pipe into the ground, and then "put" on it a wooden "cover" of square cross section, knocked down from the boards. In order for the frame to sit tightly on the pipe, first put together three boards and put them on the pipe so that they squeeze it tightly, and then attach the fourth board, fixing the tight position of the "cover". You can do it differently: pull one pair of opposite boards to the pipe using threaded rods, for which you must first drill holes in the boards and pipe, and then screw the second pair of boards to them with self-tapping screws. From above, the entire structure is closed with a decorative and protective tip made of any suitable material in the form of a visor, pyramid, ball, etc.

Of course, when installing a wooden fence, you can use any pillars: metal, asbestos-cement, brick, stone. It all depends on what kind of look you want to give the fence and how strong it should be.

Here's how to build a ranch-style wooden fence in your country house.

Construction of a wooden fence in the style of a ranch (with photo)

A ranch style fence is one of the simplest types of fence. It consists of several horizontal veins, fortified between the pillars. This fence is very popular in the USA. A similar ranch-style fence with your own hands can be made from planed coniferous planks, then the fence will have a more neat appearance, quite suitable for modern home with a well-tended garden, or with raw wide planks or poles that look more natural and match the freer style and sprawling garden. Usually 2-3 cross members are used in the span, but there can be more of them. It is easy to climb over any fence like a ranch, therefore it is good only for marking the boundaries of a plot or fencing pastures, but it is unlikely to protect against unwanted penetration of predators, people, and even more so children who love to climb such "ladders".

Similar ranch-style wood fences have many different forms, it is quite easy to build them right on the spot. First of all, it is necessary to mark the territory for the installation of the pillars. Depending on the material chosen for the fence, a step from 1.5 to 3 m is made between the pillars. Usually, the pillars are placed at intervals of 2 m. Having outlined the boundary line, pegs are hammered in the places of installation and the markings are checked again. The place for the gate or wicket should be determined in advance and also marked with pegs.

Holes in the ground are either drilled, or they use the old old-fashioned method - they dig holes with a shovel. Then the corner posts are installed in the holes. Having fixed them in a strictly vertical position, they pull a cord between them, along which the remaining pillars are exposed.

Pay attention to the photo - there are ranch-style fences in which high and low supports alternate:

Usually, the height of such fences does not exceed 1.2 m, and the intermediate columns with a section of 75 x 75 mm have the same height. Higher main pillars are chosen with a section of 125 x 100 mm. The combination of high and low posts gives the fence a more attractive look.

The crossbeams for such a beautiful wooden fence, erected by hand, are made of soft wood (usually conifers) with a section of 120 × 20 mm. Attach the top bar so that the distance from the top of the post is about 100 mm. The distance between the ground and the bottom rung may be larger.

Nail the planks to the posts with 35mm galvanized nails. At the junction, two nails are driven in (one above the other) at a distance of 25 mm from the edge of the strip. At the intermediate connection, two nails are also driven in, but for greater strength they are placed diagonally and with a slight inward inclination in relation to each other. Using screws when erecting such a wooden fence for a summer residence with your own hands allows you to get a more reliable fastening, but it takes more time. The crossbeams are joined in the center of the pillar. To increase the strength of the fence, the joints of adjacent veins should be placed on different posts.

An even stronger hedge is obtained when the veins are fastened in the grooves cut in the posts. The fastening of the veins with the help of metal fittings - squares and brackets will also be quite reliable, but stylistically they will look alien on the village fence.

The double hedge is a regular ranch-style hedge, but with planks attached to both sides of the posts. In this case, the strips on one side overlap the gaps between the strips nailed on the other.

See how such a beautiful do-it-yourself wooden fence looks like in these photos:

A fence like this can be made without nails at all. An example of a fence made of poles. The ends of the veins are trimmed to make thorns, and trimmed to the middle. Through-holes are hollowed out in the pillars. The veins are forcefully inserted into the nests from opposite sides, and if the spike of one of them is on top of the nest, then the spike of the other vein opposite to it must be located below, wedging the joint.

An American Country style hedge requires appropriate swing gates... The peculiarity of such gates is that, as a rule, they always consist of a single leaf. A diagonal brace in a structure must always run from the bottom corner of the hinged side to the opposite top corner. Considering that the span of the wings of these gates is more than 3 m, they are initially made slightly beveled. The side where the loops are located is made lower. To make such a wooden fence in the country with your own hands, the post on which the gate leaf is hung is installed, slightly tilting to the side opposite to the direction of opening. After hanging, the door should only slightly touch the bottom corner of the base of the post and have a clearance of approximately 25 mm at the top. After about 3 months, the structure will settle down, and the gate will become rectangular, and the gap between the edge of the gate and the post will be leveled. The pillar will also deviate to the vertical due to heavy weight gate. Such a structure, properly secured, will perform flawlessly for many years.

To build a wooden fence in the country with your own hands, the doors of such gates are usually made with crossbars connected to vertical beams on straight spikes. The cross members can also be bolted with mid-single or double vertical bars. Such a connection is more often used in gate designs made in the same style. Double planks, pulling together a set of veins on the sides, relieve the gate of heavy solid bars. In addition, in this case, you do not need to fiddle with spike connections.

A gate that is left open or closed for a long time will retain its shape if the outer bottom corner rests on a block of wood, stone, or concrete. This relieves the stress on the gate post. When the gate is closed, most of its weight rests on the fence because the gate post is part of the fence. But when the gate is open, there is nothing but a pillar to support its weight. Therefore, for such gates, a design has become widespread, where a long and rather heavy leaf is additionally supported by a cable. Strong rope or steel cable runs from the bottom outer corner the leaf to the top of the gate support post. In this case, the height of this pillar should be greater than the width of the gate.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to make a wooden picket fence.

How to make a beautiful wooden picket fence in the country with your own hands (with photo)

Until recently, a picket fence was perhaps the most common type of country fences in our country. Its spans are assembled from planed planks with a section of 20-25 x 70-90 mm, arranged vertically with gaps through which air and sunlight can freely penetrate. Plants feel good at its base, giving the picket fence a more attractive look. And if a hedge is planted behind it, then it will be quite difficult to overcome such a seemingly low fence. However, even in the absence of thickets, the picket fence may well protect the site from prying eyes, if the planks are made high and placed close to each other.

Typically, a do-it-yourself wooden picket fence has a height of 0.9-1.5 m and consists of support pillars, to which veins with nailed picket strips are attached. The main decoration of these fences is the design of the top cut of the picket fences. The most common option is a house-like plank with an upper cut, which is the easiest to cut. In general, there are a lot of options for decorating a picket fence, moreover, they can be combined or come up with your own design. The main thing is that the water does not linger at the curly ends of the picket fence, but flows freely down. This is especially important for fiber-end surfaces that are prone to moisture damage.

The most unfortunate shape of the picket fence is the usual rectangle. In this case, it makes sense to cover the skin with a longitudinal facing strip flat or with a slight slope. In any case, all wooden parts, sections and adjacent surfaces must be treated with antiseptic impregnation or paint.

The installation of the pillars and the fastening of the crossbars is carried out according to the above methods. As wooden posts for a beautiful fence made of a wooden picket fence, beams with a section of 100 x 100 mm are used, placing them at a distance of 1.65 m from each other. All of them should be installed at the same height along a cord or level, which is placed on a flat rail laid on top of two adjacent posts. The legs of the spans, to which the pickets are attached, are made of beams or boards 30-40 x 40-60 mm. They can be spliced along the width of a half-tree or in height with an oblique cut in any place, trying to ensure that the joints of the upper and lower slopes do not coincide. The vertical distance on the post between the veins is 400 mm.

If the arrangement of such terraces is unacceptable, an alternative can be a fence made of horizontal elements, that is, the ranch-type fence discussed above.

There are two ways to mount a picket fence: you can first fix the crossbars between the posts and nail the picket fence to them, or you can pre-assemble the fence spans and install them in blocks. It is especially convenient to use the second method if the configuration of the picket section will differ from rectangular.

To make such a wooden fence, the pickets are laid out on the logs in accordance with the selected pattern and nailed or fastened with screws, and then the planks are evenly cut from the bottom.

To keep the fence neat, the same distance between the pickets must be maintained. To do this, they are nailed, laying between them a specially made template of rails connected at an angle of 90 °. However, it is not at all necessary to nail the pickets strictly vertically. You can fasten them crosswise or at any angle, creating a unique openwork fence for your estate.

As you can see in the photo, a gate for a fence made of a wooden picket fence has the same appearance as the span panels:

The design is the same: the picket fence is stuffed into two parallel joists. In the simplest case, such a lattice section is attached to a strapping (consisting of two vertical bars) with an overlap using nails or screws. In this case, the logs are attached to the harness from the inside (from the side of the yard), and the picket fence is placed from the facade.

If the harness is assembled on spike joints, then the veins must be fastened accordingly. Spikes are cut out at their ends, and grooves are hollowed out under them in the harness. Such a gate will look neater. You can also use the method discussed above for a ranch-style wicket. The strapping on each side consists of two boards, between which veins are inserted and the package is bolted together. But in any case, so that the wicket does not warp, its frame must be fastened with a strut.

On one side of the wicket, iron loops are attached to the transverse veins with screws and the location of the screws for fastening the hinges on the support pillar is marked. Then try on the wicket on the spot. After making sure that it will hang straight, open and close easily, attach it to the support post. At the end of the work, a latch or latch is screwed on from the side of the vestibule. If necessary, you can screw on the door handle.

The design of the gate leaves for such a fence practically does not differ from the design of the wicket.

How to build a solid wooden fence in the country with your own hands (with photo)

Deaf wooden fences are easy to manufacture, protect well and hide the area from prying eyes. Many also prefer them because such fences installed along the roadway well isolate the site from dust, dirt and snow from the side of the main road.

The simplest blank fence for a summer residence can be made using the same technology as a picket fence. The frame is made of pillars with a section of 100 x 100 mm and veins from a bar or boards are 30-40 × 70-100 mm, but since such fences are made higher than a picket fence, the height (as a rule, 1.8-2 m), the veins should be at least three. With a fence height of 1.8 m, the pitch of the posts should be no more than 1.8 m, and for corner runs it is desirable to reduce it to 1.2 m.

As shown in the photo, the sheathing of a blind fence consists of plots - edged boards horizontally, vertically or diagonally:

Plots with a vertical single-row arrangement are most often stuffed on the veins end-to-end. It should be borne in mind that, depending on the season, the boards will inevitably swell and dry out, which will lead to a change in their size, so you should not nail the boards too tightly to each other - warped plots will expand the entire sheathing. When stuffing, a small gap of 3-5 mm should be left between the boards. To do this, before fixing the next board, a thin strip is inserted between it and the previous one, forming the desired gap. However, you can do without gaps - then the boards are nailed with an overlap, overlapping with the edges one on top of the other with a slight overlap. This approach is also justified from the point of view of design.

Pay attention to the photo - the height of a blank wooden fence for a summer residence refers to the size of the protected area of the site as 1:10:

Thus, a 1.5 m high fence will protect a section up to 15 m long from the leeward side.

To prevent plots from rotting in the first couple of years, they should not come into contact with the ground. The distance between them and the ground should be at least 100 mm, and so that dust or snow does not accumulate under the fence and animals cannot crawl through, Zamyatin is filled with a horizontal board along the lower edge of the span. It is she who should touch the ground. When Zamyatina becomes unusable, it is replaced with a new one - it is much easier than changing the entire covering of the span.

When installing a wooden fence with your own hands, the upper cut of the posts and boards is made beveled so that rainwater and snow do not linger and are not absorbed into the wood. For the same purposes, you can use wooden and plastic canopies.

As already mentioned, the plots do not have to be arranged vertically; the sheathing of a blind fence can also be horizontal. In this case, in the place of its attachment, vertical installation bars are screwed to the posts. As with the vertical arrangement, here you can lay the boards end-to-end with a slight gap or overlap. In any case, the lowest planking plot will play the role of Zamyatina.

Finally, the entire fence is covered with paint or varnish intended for outdoor use. Those parts of the structure that cover each other during the installation process require special attention. Their protection must be taken care of in advance.

These photos show how to make a solid wooden fence with your own hands:

Another type of solid fences are assembled from ready-made panels. It is very easy to erect panel fences. You just need to fix galvanized brackets on the posts - two on each side for low fences or three for high fences - and screw the panels to them. You can do it even easier: just nail the panels to the wooden posts with nails at intervals of 300 mm. Concrete posts with longitudinal slots (from modular concrete fences) can be used. Here there is no need for additional mount: The shields are simply inserted into the grooves. The result is a fence that is not as sturdy as a plank fence (since the panels are made from relatively thin wood with a light frame), but it is very easy to build and relatively cheap.

When installing panel fences, two points must be taken into account. First, the distance between the posts must exactly match the width of the panels to avoid skewing the panels or voids between them. Secondly, panel fences cannot be used on sloping terrain, unless a wall is made of them, which will go down the slope in the form of steps.

Look at the photo of how to build a wooden panel fence with your own hands:

There is one more consideration that applies to all constructions described in this chapter. The fact is that high deaf fences have a very serious drawback: oddly enough, they do not protect well from the wind. Such fences cause a sharp rise in the air flow and an equally sharp drop on the other side of the fence, which creates destructive downdrafts, which, flowing around the obstacle, first swirl, and then forcefully fall to the ground. To avoid this, holes must be provided in the solid wall of the fence, which will facilitate free air circulation. Small gaps between the planks will not correct the position, especially if the planks are swollen. Turning a fence into a high picket fence is also not to everyone's taste.

For this case, there is an excellent solution - sparse sheathing, in which the plots are nailed alternately on both sides of the veins. The veins in this case are located strictly in the center of the pillars. They can be embedded on tenons or attached with galvanized corners. The plots of the front and back sides must necessarily overlap each other either half or 20-30 mm from each other (on each side of the fence). The distance between the sheathing boards should be the same everywhere, but still it can be slightly changed depending on the width of the span between the posts.

In fences with sparse sheathing, plots can also be located horizontally. They are nailed on both sides of the vertical support bars so that they overlap.

When looking at this fence, it seems that it is embossed, but solid, since it is not visible through. However, the air currents, meandering between the sheathing boards, lose their strength and do not create a zone of turbulence outside the fence.

The video "Do-it-yourself wooden fence" demonstrates how such fences are erected:

The gate and wicket are the most difficult parts of the fence. They must be strong, durable and easy to use.

A wicket, as a rule, is made 1 m wide. But so that the appearance of the wicket does not differ from a blind fence, the frame is sheathed not with a picket fence, but with the same plots as the spans of the fence. The wicket can be either free-standing or built-in, making up a single structure with one of the gate leaves. True, this design reduces the reliability of the gate itself.

The gate is made of two leaves, the design of which, as a rule, resembles the design of a wicket. To enter the courtyard of trucks, they must have a width of 3.2-3.5 m, for cars - 2.4-2.6 m. Sometimes, instead of a gate in the fence, one section is made removable to ensure occasional passage of vehicles.

The wooden frame of the gate leaves is made of bars with a cross section of 50 x 100 mm, connecting them in the corners with a through single thorn, and reinforcing the structure with a diagonal jib. Heavy sashes can be additionally reinforced with metal corners.

After assembling the frame, the crate is mounted. The frames are laid on the ground and plots made of picket fences or planed boards, wooden panels, MDF boards or even thick plywood are attached to them (we do not consider metal cladding, but it is not forbidden either). After that, the protruding edges of the sheathing boards are trimmed, and loops are screwed to the frames with "wood grouses". The finished sash is hung on the posts. Hinges for metal or concrete pillars fastened through wooden lining, and wooden corks are inserted into stone ones.

The gate leaves must open into the courtyard. In the closed position, the gate is held by a bolt, latch or a pair of latches attached to the lower part of the sash trim and entering the sockets road surface... In addition, the same nests are placed at an appropriate distance and on the sides of the passage. Latches are fixed in them when the gate is open so that the doors do not close spontaneously.

The clearance between the shutters and the ground must be at least 100-150 mm so that the snow that falls does not interfere with the opening of the gate. In the snowless period, the gap can be reduced by attaching removable boards to the bottom of the gate.

Now we will consider the process of making an original sash, which can be used both in a wicket and as part of a gate intended for the passage of a passenger car. This sash is a kind of "layer cake" of two outer frames and an inner one - with a diagonal sheathing of 25 mm planks. The upper cross members of the outer frames have a curved shape, which looks especially advantageous in paired gate leaves. But messing around with cutting out bends is not at all necessary. You can make the sash entirely rectangular.

A long flexible rail and three nails, which are lightly hammered into the board in the places indicated by an asterisk in the drawing, will help to mark the arcuate line. The rail is applied to the outer nails, bent and hooked onto the middle one (in the drawing, the rail is indicated by a bold dashed line). Now, with a pencil, you can trace the resulting arc formed by the curved rail.

The production of a wicket begins with external frames. They are assembled from boards with a section of 25 x 180 mm. The upper crossbars are cut out of the same board according to the template. For a conventional single wicket with a width of 1 m, the workpiece will have a length of 2 m. Having cut out such a symmetrical part, it is sawn in half, having received both upper cross members. Collected frames, you should constantly monitor their squareness. When these parts are ready, bars of the inner frame with a section of 25 x 25 mm are attached to one of the frames. These bars are aligned with the outer edges of the outer frame.

The diagonal sash sheathing begins with a board resting against the lower outer corner 2. The board is trimmed to fit the opening of the inner frame and nailed. Then, on both sides of it, the remaining sheathing elements continue to be fastened. As in the fence panels, the boards should not be installed close to each other, and so that the gaps between them are the same, use a spacer - for example, a ruler or rail 3-5 mm thick.

When the opening is completely filled, a second outer frame is screwed on top of the skin. Completing the manufacture of the wicket painting works and by screwing on hinges with long cards for attaching to the support post.

Such a wicket can be made double-leaf, or the width of the leaves can be slightly increased and used in the gate. In any case, the total width of the two leaves must be 25 mm less than the opening between the support posts. The blank for the upper cross members of the outer frames is made of the same length.

After both doors are ready, they are laid on the ground, aligned and squareness is checked by measuring the diagonals - they should be exactly the same. After making sure that the dimensions are correct, a 10 mm thick rail is inserted between the flaps (this should be the free gap between them) and temporarily rally into a single package using bars and nails. This package is installed on temporary supports between the support posts so that the gap between the ground surface and the lower trim is at least 100 mm. By aligning the gate horizontally, you can screw the free hinge cards to the posts. To ensure the gaps between the flaps and posts, spacer inserts (pieces of boards and bars) of the required thickness are used.

After the gates are hung, the bars with which the sashes were pulled together are removed and checked how easily the gates swing open. From the outside, a bridging bar is screwed onto one of the leaves, which closes the gap between the gate halves. At the end of work on the installation of a blind fence, loops for the lock (not shown in the drawing) are screwed to the shutters and a locking latch is installed, under the pin of which a piece of pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is driven into the ground.

These photos show the types of wooden fences described in this article:

Wood fences have been used by our ancestors since prehistoric times. They do not lose their relevance in our time, remaining one of the most popular delimiters. Pleasant natural aesthetics, practicality and ease of installation - it is for these characteristics that the owners of private houses have kept their commitment to such fences.

Types of wooden fences

Wooden fences can take on a completely different appearance. Next, we will talk about the main types of designs and their design.

Classic wooden fence

This is one of the most common types of wooden structures. It is easy to erect, does not require an abundance of materials, and at the same time is able to serve for many years.

As a support, steel profile pipes are used, which are fixed in the ground with concrete with a depth of 1 to 1.5 m - depending on the composition of the soil. Beams are installed between them, directly to which wooden boards are attached.

Palisade

The classic picket fence consists of pointed stakes. This shape of the logs makes the fence strong and reliable. The service life of the structure is longer than, for example, for a wicker product, but still not very long in comparison with many others. modern designs... Since the fence does not have a solid foundation, it can loosen and sag over time. In addition, a lot of materials for the construction will be needed.

Based on the above, this type of fence is rarely used today. However, you can replace it with a similar bamboo structure or make a classic palisade in the form of colored pencils - it will be a lot of fun.

Vertical picket fence

This type is more versatile than the previous one. The picket fence is decorative and at the same time able to create privacy. In order to increase the strength, the timber lamella structure is supported by metal pipes... Small gaps are left between the slats to promote air circulation.

A picket fence installed on a stone base looks very attractive.

Horizontal picket fence

The horizontal picket fence is simple and laconic. It is this type of fencing that is most harmonious for most modern buildings. It can be with or without gaps - at your discretion. Herringbone, ranch and checkerboard are variations of this species. Depending on the design, it will have characteristic properties and appearance. Let's take a closer look at them later.

Ranch

These fences are reminiscent of the traditional fences used by American farmers. But similar structures can be found in our open spaces - in villages and villages, they often outline vegetable gardens, front gardens and pastures.

It is not difficult to recognize such fences - the structure consists of vertical beams with horizontal boards fixed to them, with large gaps between them. The ranch may also be referred to as a simple low hedge with vertical planks in a rustic style. It is quite easy to build this fence yourself. It will clearly define the boundaries of the territory, but it will not be able to become a barrier from the views of outsiders.

Chess Wooden Fence

Chess is a more complex type of picket fence. This option is suitable for many style solutions of the landscape area. You can choose to stay at a deaf structure or choose a fence with openings. The latter looks quite original and interesting, but in the first case, you can make the site closed from outsiders.

Wooden fence "herringbone"

It is not always enough to build a decorative ventilated fence. Such cases include areas located along noisy roads. Here it is better to give preference to a solid fence, which will protect the area from exhaust gases, intrusive sounds and dust. This can be provided by a wooden ladder fence, also known as a herringbone. It will decorate both an oversized summer cottage and a large modern building.

Lattice wood fence

A wooden fence does not have to have a strict vertical or horizontal shape. If you install a fence with neat small boards, then it will look quite light and delicate, especially in white. So that you are not disturbed by the curious eyes of people passing by, plant dense climbing plants, such hedge will produce an even more impressive effect. The fence is installed quickly and easily, since its component parts are ready-made sections, manufactured at the factory.

Combined wood fence

To make the fence more reliable, attractive, and sometimes less expensive, use Additional materials for construction: stone in various configurations, brick, metal picket fence, waste materials, concrete, forged metal.

As a rule, these materials serve as a reliable foundation for a structure or its vertical supports. But they can also perform an exclusively decorative function, as is the case with forged parts.

Features of the construction of wooden fences with your own hands

Many people abandon the idea of self-construction of a wooden fence due to the apparent complexity of the process. Indeed, if you do not have enough time or absolutely no desire to build something yourself, then you can hire workers and give this work to them. But if you want to build the fence of your dreams with your own hands, then we hasten to please you - everything is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

First of all, take care of high-quality wood processing. To preserve its natural color, cover the material with varnish - this way the tree will not succumb to the influence of moisture and will not become darker. Do not forget about special impregnations that will prevent the negative effects of liquids and pests thanks to the antifungal agents and insecticides in the composition.

The whole installation process looks like this:

1. First, install a foundation or other supporting structures.
2. Next, fix the boards on them, depending on the selected type of fence.
3. To increase the strength indicators, it is worth using metal corners, to which the boards are already directly attached.

This is a very generalized erection algorithm. For a more detailed study of the entire installation cycle, it is necessary to determine the desired configuration of the fence. If this is your first time trying to do the installation yourself, then stop at simple forms - so you get every chance to do a great job.

Wooden fences can not only protect the site and mark its borders, but also decoratively complement it. Choose this type of fence so that if a residential building or landscape area is already equipped with other wood elements, the materials are in harmony with each other in texture and color.

Color solution for a wooden fence

So, an untreated tree cannot last long, due to the destructive influence of the environment. Therefore, if you prefer a natural type of wood, it should be pre-treated with appropriate means. To make the color look brighter, you can use a stain or translucent varnish. Indeed, the natural texture looks very noble and harmonious surrounded by vegetation on the site. Moreover, even if the house is made using metal, glass, concrete, the tones of wood will only play a plus, giving the design warm notes.

You can go the other way and still color the material. White remains one of the most versatile and winning colors. It will add incredible lightness and fragrance to the design of the entire landscape area. A snow-white fence will look especially impressive if such a shade is present on other elements of garden, residential or utility structures - furniture, pergola, roof, balcony, gazebo, and so on. So you can achieve a single solemn image of the composition.

Think shades of white are catchy and impractical? Use muted tones of green, blue, or gray. So that such a fence does not look trivial and boring, focus on the originality of the form, you can even simply pick up vertical boards with different heights - this is not difficult, but the result will be prettier.

For lovers of bright colors and a cheerful mood, multi-colored fences are suitable. You can make a colored palisade from simple branches. This design will make the structure of the connected branches of different sizes a single whole, and waste material will become a kind of art object.

Color in different shades a picket fence is also possible. Pick up to your taste color range- bright, contrasting and juicy, all colors of the rainbow, soft blurry watercolor palette or a couple of combined colors. Everything will depend on your personal preferences and, of course, the general mood and message of the landscape area.

Having decided to make the fence colored, pick up really high-quality paints - they should not only be beautiful, but also have protective properties. This is very important, since the paint and the fence itself can last not one or two seasons, but much longer. It will be unpleasant to notice that by next year the hedge will deteriorate and the coating will crack.

It is a mistake to believe that modern wooden fences are not gaining a second life and are not gaining wide popularity. Since wood is a practical and relatively inexpensive material, the decision to fence with it residential buildings and summer cottages has always been quite common. There are many options for such fences, and most of them can be built yourself from commercially available timber.

Beautiful wooden fence made of horizontally installed boards

Varieties of wooden hedges

All wooden fences used for the area around a private house or summer cottage are built of two parts - supports (otherwise - pillars) and spans (sections) installed between them. When they talk about some kind of fencing, they mean exactly the way of filling the spans, because the supports can be made from different materials.

To choose a suitable design, and then build a wooden fence with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the most popular options:

A regular or figured picket fence, assembled from strips on two crossbars, attached to the posts.
A traditional wattle fence that has come to us from time immemorial.
Solid wood fence made of small logs with ends pointed at 45 ° (palisade).
The so-called checkerboard, where boards are nailed to both sides of the crossbars in a checkerboard pattern so that there are no openings.
Sections of planks nailed vertically or horizontally overlapping each other. By design, they resemble blinds.
Ranch-type wood fences. They are a fence made of horizontal poles nailed to the posts at a great distance.

In addition to the listed types of fences for the house, which have to be assembled from individual parts, ready-made frames are used in the form of frames with various fillings - gratings, slats, braids.

When choosing a type of fence, one should take into account what role the fence made of wood should play and where it is planned to be installed. In practice, for the front side of a private house, a decorative, solid palisade and "blinds" are most often used, less often - "" and wattle. Ranch pole hedges, originally intended for pet paddocks, are used for fencing land plots or gardens from the back.

Preparation of materials for the fence

Before making a wooden fence, you need to select and purchase timber for it. If you plan to build a picket fence, then the following wood products will fit for its installation:

edged boards of the same width;
slabs;
curly pickets, cut on the machine;
small diameter logs.

The height of the pickets does not have to be the same. Planks of various lengths are selected in such an order that the lower ends are on the same horizontal, and the upper ones form bulges or depressions, creating a wave effect. Several such waves can be made during the flight.

Wooden picket fence decorated in the form of a wave

For palisades, long trunks with a diameter of up to 150 mm, completely free of bark, are suitable. The measure is extremely necessary, because various wood pests which will quickly bring your new fence to a state of rottenness. In the case when the bottom of the palisade rests on the ground, the lower ends of the logs should be treated with bitumen.

Picket fence on a stone foundation

On a double-sided fence for a private house (checkerboard) wide boards will go, you can uncut. It is advisable to pick them up approximately of the same width and completely remove the bark. Fences are made of the same timber, resembling vertical or horizontal blinds.

Chess fence with horizontal planks

You need to make a wattle from a vine or flexible rods of small diameter (up to 4 cm). It is not necessary to clean them from the bark, it is too time-consuming operation. The rods are harvested by cutting during the cold season, when the movement of juices inside the tree has not yet begun

Wooden fence - wicker from branches

For a fence on metal poles, you need to select steel rolled products of the appropriate size in advance. It is most convenient to work with profile pipes with a cross section of 60x60 mm, it makes no sense to take more. Ordinary round pipes purchased at the nearest scrap metal collection point are also used.

The choice of wood species and its processing

What is not recommended to build wooden fences is from birch. This breed is under the influence weather conditions rather quickly begins to rot, which is why the fence around the house will not last even 10 years. Of the most common and affordable species for hedges, the following is used:

Pine;
aspen;
alder;
larch.

Conifers have a high resin content, which makes them highly resistant to moisture, provided they are properly treated and maintained. The best option is to build a fence made of larch, which is not afraid of rain or cold weather. If desired and the availability of funds, you can make a fence from valuable wood species - oak or ash, their dense structure also tolerates precipitation well.

Flexible rods and branches of various species, including fruit ones, go to wicker fences made of wood:

nut;
willow, willow;
maple, poplar;
mulberry;
Apple tree;
Cherry.

When buying wood for the construction of a fence, you should make sure that it is well dried, otherwise your structure will lose its appearance after 2-3 cold seasons. Dries naturally, timber will crack, warp and deform. Forest drying can be done at home under a canopy, which will take at least 1 year. This condition does not apply to wicker fences, where, on the contrary, good flexibility of the branches is required.

In addition to drying, timber requires antiseptic processing from decay and destruction by various insect pests. A great way is to apply a continuous layer of resin or special bitumen impregnation to the wood. But you cannot cover the entire fence with bitumen, which is why the technique is used only to protect the underground parts of wooden pillars.

For antiseptic treatment, colorless commercially available compounds (Biosept, Novotex) are used, as well as Swedish paint made at home using the following algorithm:

Boil a paste from 550 g of flour dissolved in 3 liters of water.
Strain the paste so that there are no lumps left, put on low heat.
Add 240 g each of copper sulfate and sodium chloride, mix thoroughly.
While stirring, pour 220 ml of drying oil and 230 g of red lead into the solution.
Bring up the volume of water to 4.5 liters and let the paint cool down.

Arrangement of the supporting part of the fence

The first thing to do is to mark the area under the wooden fence with your own hands. Having retreated from the house the required distance, you should stretch the cord along the line of installation of the future fence. Then, in the places where the pillars are installed, you need to drive stakes into the ground with the following calculation:

the optimal distance between the supports is 2.5 m with a fence height of up to 200 cm;
if you plan to put a fence higher than 200 cm, then in order to contain a high wind load on the poles, it is better to reduce the distance between them to 2 m;
posts of low fences (up to 120 cm) can be spaced up to 3 m.

If you do not use ready-made sections standard size, then divide the entire length into equal intervals, taking into account the listed recommendations. Then proceed with the installation of the support part made of wood or using metal elements (pipes, channels, corners). You can combine wood with metal by fixing a steel pipe in the ground and attaching a column of 100x100 mm timber to it.

There are 4 mounting methods support posts in the ground:

Driving a column into the ground to a depth of at least 0.8 m, followed by compaction of the soil around it.
Digging or drilling a hole 40 cm deep and driving the pillar another 40 cm below its level. After tamping the bottom, the pit is filled with concrete. The name of the technique is a concrete collar device.
Backfilling. The pit is dug out to the full depth (0.8 m), after which ramming is performed, the stand is installed and backfilled with stones with compaction. The gaps between them are filled with a liquid clay solution.
Complete concreting. The same pit with the support installed is filled with concrete from top to bottom.

Methods for installing metal pillars

Since wooden fences do not differ in great weight, but experience lateral loads from the wind, the most reliable methods are concreting and backfilling. Simple hammering and posts with a concrete collar are appropriate when the fence height is low or its windage is low, when there are many gaps between the elements.

Assembling the frame

At this stage, the installation of horizontal crossbars is carried out, connecting the pillars and serving as the basis for fastening the filling elements of the spans. The frame is assembled by the following methods:

A beam of 40x60 mm or larger is nailed directly to wooden posts with nails. The joining points of adjacent bars should be in the center of the support.
The same, only for a horizontal bar in the column, a sample is made, and fastening is carried out both with nails and self-tapping screws.
The easiest way to attach a lintel to an iron pipe is to drill a through hole in both parts and insert a bolt through them. The bar is securely attracted to the rack with a nut.
Sections are welded to steel pipes metal corners or stripes. Holes are drilled in them and the timber is again fastened with bolts.

If you decide to put a fence with horizontal elements in the form of unedged boards, planks or logs near a private house, then one jumper will be required - along the top of the racks. For fixing the picket fence, you need 2 crossbeams, for mounting the "checkerboard" - three. It is assumed that a wooden fence has a standard height of 2 m, with other parameters the number of crossbars may vary.

The construction of a fence with elements in the form of ajar blinds is somewhat different. Supports should be tied with one bar on top, then a visor will be fixed to it. And to mount wooden planks at an angle on the posts, you will have to vertically install 2 wide boards on each side.

Final assembly of spans

This is the final stage of the assembly, during which the filling details are installed - picket fences, palisade logs or "checkerboard" boards. Traditionally, 2 types of fasteners are used - nails and galvanized screws. In order for a wooden fence near a private house to be reliable and serve for many years, follow these recommendations when installing it:

fasten the picket strips to the lintels from the outside, hammering in 2 nails at each point for rigidity;
when assembling a double-sided fence, nail the front boards first, and then the rear ones;
use building level checking each bar;
palisade logs should be nailed from the back;
fasten the fence strips in the form of ajar blinds from the ends through the boards fixed on the posts;
horizontally oriented boards must be attached directly to the posts.

Ready-made fences made of wood are often protected from above with a visor, which simultaneously plays a decorative role. The easiest way to make it from thin metal with a polymer coating or the remnants of metal tiles. The construction of the fence is completed by painting all wooden parts in the desired color or varnishing.

In recent years, the fashion for wooden buildings leads to the fact that more and more developers think that a metal fence may not be the most best solution... In terms of durability, maybe yes, but in terms of aesthetics, it is inferior to wood. The wooden fence has somewhat lost its popularity due to its short life: wood, with constant exposure to the sun and water, quickly collapses. In order to increase the service life, the protective paint coating has to be constantly refurbished. It takes a lot of time and requires a lot of paint when it is long. This problem has become less acute, since the new antiseptics that have appeared recently make it possible to extend the service life of the fence, and also guarantee the durability of the staining for several years. The term is different - from 2-3 years to 5-7. It depends on the type of antiseptic impregnation and the manufacturer, but finding "long-playing" is not difficult: in any more or less large store.

Moreover, these impregnations do not paint over the texture of the wood: all the veins are visible. They just change color, usually to a darker one. This wood fence looks solid and rich. Even a simple picket fence, and even more difficult, and even more so.

What is important is that you can put a wooden fence with your own hands alone, if necessary, even without the involvement of assistants. It is also important: a significant part of the work - the preparation of wood - can be carried out not on site, but, say, in a garage or workshop. And start it long before the start of construction. For example, from autumn to spring, and the construction itself should be started when the weather is already warm.

Wood is a very flexible material and the simplest thing you can do is make it look like a work of art. This is also true for fences. If you wish, you can make such a "candy" that it is expensive to look at it. There are several structures of wooden fences.

Fence

The simplest is a picket fence. This is a set of edged boards or planks of the same, usually width, which are nailed vertically to two or more transverse guides.

Diagram of a wooden fence made of vertically nailed boards - picket fence

May differ in the shape of the top. Sawing the floor 90 ° is the simplest option, but far from the best, and not only from the point of view of aesthetics. The top of such a picket fence, even painted, is exposed to intense moisture, as a result of which the coating in this place is destroyed first. And the wood pores in the perpendicular cut remain open. Rain, fog, melting snow / ice are absorbed by them, which leads to the destruction of the wood. To avoid this, cut the tops off not floor 90, but at 45 °. If you look at such a board in profile, the top will be beveled (see the picture below).

The distance between two adjacent pickets is chosen according to your wishes. You can make a solid fence, adjusting one close to the other, it is possible - translucent, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm, or completely transparent - with a large distance equal to the width of the boards or even more. Such options are popular for internal fences, which are more designed to separate areas and mark boundaries than to protect from something. For outdoor fences facing the street, they usually choose a continuous installation, maybe with a very small distance so that the boards do not "swell" in wet weather.

The sawn tops add variety. They can be sharpened in different ways - with a rounded top, in the form of peaks, triangles, trapezoids. All this in different versions and combinations.

The rounded top is the most popular This is more of an openwork fence, but decorative - exactly the tops in the form of lilies - the fence will be beautiful Peaks and triangles - in combination and independently

Some even make truly works of art: a carved fence requires a lot of perseverance. Painstaking work, but the result is worth it.

Carved fence strips - beauty Beauty - carved wood fence

Make curly tops faster and easier with a template. Cut a sample from a sheet of plywood, bring it to ideal condition... Then cut out all the rest according to this templates. You can cut using a jigsaw or a milling machine.

You can buy a jigsaw for such a case. All the same, even taking into account this expense item, it will be cheaper than buying ready-made carved picket fences. The downside here is that it takes a lot of time, and the pickets are not the same: the file will go a little to the right, then a little to the left. Then the edges will still have to be processed with sandpaper.

Buying a milling machine, if you do not plan to use it later, is unprofitable. And those who already have one can buy floating head cutters and use it to make a curly picket fence. The height of the cutter's cutting part is equal to the thickness of the board that you will be processing, and the head rests against the template.

In both cases, you will have to somehow fix the template on the workpiece. This can be done with thin nails or by gluing double-sided tape to the template.

But if you approach the process creatively, then even from even thin strips you can make a beautiful wooden fence: nailing it at different angles.

The authors of this wooden picket fence made it even easier: they made only the height nonlinear, emphasizing the relief with a bar nailed from above. By the way, this is the second way to significantly increase the lifespan of a wooden fence - the bar blocks access for water to the most vulnerable open cross-sections). Also, nonlinearity is given by the planks nailed on the surface in the form of frames, and the wood inside is painted more light color... Agree, original.

Fence made of wood "chess" or "chess"

In fact, this is one of the subspecies of the picket fence. Boards are packed alternately from one side to the other of the crossbar. It turns out an interesting volumetric look.

The principle of installation of pickets in the fence "chess" or "chess"

If you look at such a fence exactly opposite, it looks like a deaf, if to the side, then at a certain angle some part of the yard will be visible through the gap. The degree of transparency is regulated by the entry of one bar, after another. You can make the viewability zero. For example, with a slat width of 10 cm, the distance between them should be no more than 6 cm. No matter how you look, you cannot see anything. The disadvantage is the high consumption of wood. But fences are very beautiful, especially in combination with brick or stone pillars and figured tops.

Checkerboard on a plinth - such a fence looks gorgeous

Horizontal fences are also made of chess. But here you need to keep in mind that it is very convenient to climb on such a fence: boards are like steps. True, any fence is not such a serious obstacle. Rather, he is a protection from prying eyes than from serious assassination attempts.

Wooden fence - horizontal checkerboard

Such "chess" looks decent and solid. Poles can be any: metal, wood, stone, concrete. If they put metal posts, they are made from a profiled thick-walled pipe (3 mm). Above ground level, from the front and back sides, they are sewn up with boards (to the posts with bolts or self-tapping screws), which are larger than the width of the profile: they should protrude on the sides by 3-6 cm. Thus, we get guides into which the boards are inserted. The planks are then attached from the inside to the pillar sheathing.

Fence "Herringbone"

Another type of horizontal fence is called a herringbone. It is named so because the boards are stacked close to one another, and with an overlap on the one below. In profile, it looks like a Christmas tree, as children draw it.

Herringbone wooden fences create a continuous covering

It is more difficult to climb up such a fence. Please note that there is a protective visor on top. It protects the most vulnerable part of the fence, significantly extending its life, as well as delaying the time for the next painting. After all, usually the top and bottom of the coating is the most damaged. From below, this fence is protected by a plinth, from above - by a visor.

Wooden fences "blinds"

They differ from those described above in that the boards do not adjoin one another. They are fixed at an angle, but with some clearance. This type of fence does not create a solid wall and the courtyard can be viewed, although this requires sitting down or even lying down - depending on the angle of inclination.

A fence called "blinds" - looking at its device, you will understand why

This type of fence is very uneconomical - wood consumption is usually high. The assembly is also difficult: attach a bar (corner) under each board or file a notch in the post.

But with this construction, good ventilation of the site is provided. This is important if the climate or area is humid. You cannot install a solid fence: there will be a puddle under it and the dirt in the yard will never dry out.

Plank plait - a beautiful fence

The fence, made of boards bent between the posts, looks unusual. They are intertwined between the posts like a traditional wattle fence. They only make it out of long boards.

Fence "wicker" from the board

Most often they are found in horizontal design. There are fewer joints and it is easier to bend long spans.

There are also vertical braids. To give them a complete look, planks are nailed at the top and bottom - they both hold the edges of the boards and protect them from the weather.

How to make such beauty, see the video. Really simple, but decent strength is required.

Lattice fences

A wide variety of gratings are made from thin, and not so, slats: with different angles, frequency of arrangement of the slats, etc. These fences play rather a decorative role and are used either for fencing inside - a water thief, in a garden - or for a front entrance - to mark the boundaries, but not to obscure the beauty.

A fence made of wooden slats lattice "in a cage" A lattice fence made of boards - looks serious Double slats - such a lattice fence looks interesting

Photos of beautiful fences

You are simply amazed: what beauty people can make from a piece of wood. Really beautiful. And some, while not very difficult.

Maybe someone will be inspired by these photos of old wooden fences, they can be repeated ...

Disappearing beauty ...