How to get rid of pests on radishes. How to properly treat radishes from pests. Cruciferous flea: a portrait of a pest


A smooth, bright marketable radish causes joy and pride in the work done on the site. But a tasty root crop is liked not only by people, but also by insects, so it is not always possible to get a beautiful harvest. There are many pests that can spoil the radish, destroy its tops or pulp. If you do not fight them, they will quickly spread, filling the site. The article will describe radish pests and methods of dealing with them.

Signs of pests on radishes

Pests on radishes are even easier to notice than diseases, because they are visible to the naked eye, and if we are talking about underground pests, then it will help to decide appearance tops or dug out root crop. There are several main signs of the appearance of pests:

  • leaf ulcers;
  • twisted, yellow leaves;
  • black formations on the basis of sheets;
  • for no reason sluggish, drooping tops;
  • leaflets in holes that could not have appeared otherwise than from caterpillars and other pests;
  • holes, tunnels are visible on the radish itself.

In particular, vigilantly need to monitor the young shoots of radishes. They are very vulnerable and if pests attack them, you can lose your entire crop!

Usually insects immediately eat the leaves, although underground insects can start from the root or root crop, so you need to be careful. And take action at the first sign.

The main pests of radish

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Radish pests do not appear spontaneously in the garden. Usually they switch to radishes from other crops or from weeds that are available on the site.

  • Cabbage white is a butterfly white color with a black border on the edge of the wing. She lays her eggs in areas where radishes grow, and caterpillars hatched from them eat the bases of radish leaves. This leads to the fact that the root crop stops growing and may simply not grow.
  • cruciferous flea- one of the most dangerous enemies radish. She eats still young radish leaves, chewing holes in them when they first appear. After their invasion, the bed with plantings resembles a sieve.
  • The wireworm is a pest known to any gardener. This is the larva of the click beetle, which can destroy the entire plant - the ground and underground parts in a short time.
  • Cabbage and garden cutworms are gray-brown butterflies, which also leave clutches on radish leaves. The larvae that have emerged from them eat the leaves, while only transparent skeletons remain from the green tops. Of course, root crops in the ground cease to develop completely and dry out or rot.
  • The cabbage moth is a gray-brown insect with a remarkable fringe on its wings. The moth itself is not harmful to the radish, but its larvae suck the juices from the tops and eat the leaf tissue.
  • Spring and summer cabbage fly - an ashy-colored insect (summer is usually larger than spring). Among the plantings of radishes and other vegetables, she lays her eggs, and the white larvae (worms) hatching from them penetrate deep into the earth and eat the roots of the radish. Already in 2-3 days, the radish becomes unusable.

As you can see, there are a lot of pests that threaten radishes. But if you know how to deal with them, you can not worry about the harvest or its quality.

How to deal with radish pests?

When the gardener has recognized a pest encroaching on a plot with radishes, you can begin to exterminate pests. There are many specialized preparations, which very effectively cope with their task, but they must be used exclusively according to the instructions, during that period of cultural development when they cannot harm the crop.

  • « Actellik "- a well-known drug, effective against cabbage fly, cabbage whites, scoops. For 10 liters of warm water, 20 ml of the substance is taken, mixed well and used for spraying. This solution is enough for 10 squares of planting.
  • « Entobacterin " - strong, biological preparation from cabbage moth, aphids, cabbage whites. It is used in dry (for dusting) or liquid (for spraying) form. Diluted according to the instructions offered on the package.
  • « Zolon "Used from cabbage whitefish, midges, scoops, aphids, cruciferous flea. The method of use is indicated on the package.
  • « Zemlin "can save the site from cabbage flies, wireworms and other insects that live in the ground. Diluted according to the instructions on the package and used immediately. It is impossible to prepare this remedy for the future!
  • « Provotox "- a strong drug against wireworm, not addictive in insects, so it can be used annually. Diluted according to the instructions on the box.

Spraying or watering with insecticides is carried out only in dry weather. If it rains after using the insecticide, it is advisable to repeat the procedure, because the water washes away most of the insecticide.

  • « Aktara "- a universal drug against a variety of pests on cruciferous. It can remove caterpillars, larvae, butterflies, moths, aphids from the site. However, it must be used carefully because it is also harmful to bees. Therefore, it is always used only according to the instructions and only when there are no flowering plants nearby.
  • « Initiative » displays the wireworm, scoop caterpillars, cruciferous flea, fly larvae, cabbage white. One sachet (30 g) is enough for about 15 square meters site. This tool is prepared atypically. It is not diluted with water, but mixed with sand. A ¾ liter jar is filled with sand, and then 30 g of the substance is poured there and mixed. The resulting composition is sprayed over the area.
  • « Bazudin » copes with the invasion of bears, cabbage fly larvae, weevils, wireworms. Must be ¾ filled to use liter jar sand, add 30 g of Bazudin and spray over the area with radishes. This amount is usually enough for 20 square meters of landings.

Folk methods of struggle


In the case when radish pests have just appeared on the plant, you can not immediately use strong, specialized means, but to do with folk remedies.

  • Ash soap. In a bucket of water (10 l) dissolve 50 g laundry soap and 2 glasses wood ash. The resulting composition is well mixed and used for watering radishes. This tool deal with cruciferous flea.
  • Mustard with pepper. If moth, scoop, cabbage white appeared on the radish, you can scare them away with this remedy. In 10 liters of water, a teaspoon of red powder is mixed, hot pepper, 2 tablespoons of salt and the same amount of dry mustard. Plants are watered with the resulting mixture.
  • Tobacco and ash drive away caterpillars, larvae, fleas. One of these means or both you just need to powder the leaves and the ground where the radish grows. This simple procedure will scare away pests.
  • Ash and lime in a 1:1 mixture can drive away a whole horde of cruciferous fleas. But you need to use this tool only in dry weather, and after the rains repeat.

Preventive actions

Each gardener knows what pests live on his site or lived before. In order to prevent their secondary appearance or damage to radishes, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures.

  • It should be clean between the rows - no weeds, fallen leaves, and it is also not recommended to thicken the crops.
  • Preventive crop spraying avoids possible problems. But it is not necessary to use insecticides for this. If there are no pests yet, folk recipes will also be effective.

Interesting!

Insects are especially active during the hot period. And most of all they are attracted to young radishes.

  • Any affected plants are best removed rather than waiting for the culture to recover. While the gardener is waiting, the pest is looking for new ones, delicious treats and switch to them.
  • Rot always attracts pests, so the area should not have any such smells. Old mulch is changed in time, fallen leaves are burned, waste is thrown away.
  • Crop rotation helps to avoid pests. You can’t plant radishes after cruciferous ones!
  • You need to water in moderation. An abundance or lack of moisture can attract insects for which such an environment is comfortable.
  • Many pests like an acidic environment, so you need to control the acidity of the earth and adjust it as needed.

As you can see, everything is not very difficult, the main thing is to take a comprehensive approach to the problem, if it appears. But, in general, subject to preventive measures and a timely response to the appearance of pests, the gardener does not have to worry about the harvest of radishes.

Gardeners appreciate radishes for tasty and healthy root crops that they look forward to. However, in some cases, the harvest can significantly and a short time spoil the pests called cruciferous flea. These little bugs bring a lot of trouble. How to save seedlings and get rid of insects, we'll talk in this article.



What is this pest?

The cruciferous flea damages mainly plants of the cruciferous family, which is why it got its name. The flea has hind legs, on which it jumps like a flea, but it is not a blood-sucking insect. The bug prefers to settle on such weeds as wild radish, shepherd's purse, from horticultural crops especially fond of turnips and cabbage. However, radish remains a favorite delicacy in the early stages of the pest.

The insect has very small dimensions, the length of its oval oblong body is up to 3 millimeters. At the same time, the flea can fly. There are several varieties of the pest, among them are black, blue, light-footed and others. The differences are determined for the most part by the color of the elytra.

Beetles live in the European part of Russia, excluding the regions of the Far North. The harm from the insect is expressed in the fact that it damages the leaves, in which it gnaws out peculiar pits. The flea is especially dangerous for young greenery, as it can gnaw through tender leaves. Thin roots of crops serve as a delicacy for larvae. Pests are most active during the day, except for the period from 13 to 16 hours, when the sun is especially scorching.



IN winter period an adult flea hides in the remains of plants, crevices of greenhouses, soil. When spring comes and the ground thaws, the insects come out and begin to actively seek food for themselves, after which eggs are laid. The cruciferous flea larvae live in the soil for about 3 weeks, after this time they pupate, and new young individuals come to the surface. An insect can give birth in a whole summer period up to 3 generations.


Prevention measures

It is easier to prevent any problem than to deal with its consequences later. Therefore, experts and seasoned gardeners recommend several prevention methods that will help protect radishes. Consider. what needs to be done to protect the plantings from the pest at the initial stage.

The proximity of coriander, dill and garlic repels the pest, as the insect really does not like the smell of these plants. In the case when radishes are planted towards the end of the season, it is recommended to place the beds next to calendula or marigolds, which the flea also does not tolerate.





Fighting methods

In order to get rid of the cruciferous flea, you need to make sure that the crop is harmed by an insect of this particular species. This is not so difficult to do, because despite the small size of the pest, it can be easily detected visually. The bugs jump on the leaves, which have gnawed holes.

The main danger of a flea is that in the absence of a fight against it, the gardener can completely lose seedlings. Since radishes often appear earlier than other sprouts, it is on it that the main blow of the bugs that become active after hibernation falls. In addition, a large number of these insects can harm adult plants, as well as even hardened radish seedlings, so protection measures should be started as early as possible.

Start with prevention and deterrence, chemicals are used as a last resort.



Folk remedies

Not all gardeners accept the use of chemicals. In some cases, folk methods are quite effective, however, when applying them, it must be borne in mind that in this case it is not enough to process the crops once or twice, systematic care will be required, which, accordingly, involves a large investment of time. There are some of the most common folk methods, whose excellent action is confirmed by a huge number of examples:

  • humid environment;
  • dry pollination;
  • shelter nonwoven fabric;
  • setting traps;
  • spraying infusions.


Let's take a closer look at these methods.

Wet environment

The red-colored flea thrives in hot and dry weather, but it does not like humidity. Therefore, when planting, it is recommended to choose the most humid part of the garden. Abundant watering will also scare away the pest. At the same time, do not forget that he is afraid of strong odors, so it would be useful to add strong-smelling products to the water.


dry pollination

Plantings can be pollinated various means, since the bug chooses the cleanest leaves for food. This method is very popular among gardeners, as it does not require large financial costs and is very effective. Mixtures can be different, the most commonly used is ash in combination with tobacco or road dust, as well as fluffy lime.

The components should be taken in equal proportions and mixed thoroughly. The procedure itself is recommended to be carried out early in the morning so that the composition lies on the dew, and you also need to water the radish first. In humid conditions, the particles of the mixture adhere well to wet leaves. For the most effective and uniform result, the composition is placed in a gauze bag, after which it is gently shaken over the sprouts. This method is also called powdering.

Minus this method in that it does not work with a single use. good protection can only be ensured if dusting is carried out systematically.

The ideal option would be when the gardener can carry it out after each watering or rain. And also, to achieve the maximum effect, crops should be processed not only from above, but also from below.


Shelter with non-woven material

If the crops are covered with a cloth, they will be protected not only from insects, but also from weeds and cold weather. The material must be chosen wisely, it must pass light, water and air, but at the same time be an insurmountable obstacle to pests. Well suited, for example, lutrasil or spanbond.

In addition, many recommend dusting radishes before shelter, which will serve additional protection. When under such a canvas, the radish will grow, get stronger, the leaves will coarsen a little, so when the shelter is removed, it will no longer be an easily accessible and especially attractive delicacy for a flea.


Traps

The use of a sticky flag is often used to help get rid of the pest. The procedure is quite simple and does not require special skills.

To make a flag, a piece of fabric is attached to a stick and treated with some kind of adhesive. Solidol is excellent for this purpose. After that, you need to go along the beds with radishes, slightly touching the flag with its leaves. This will disturb the insects, which will try to hide from danger, and, flying away or jumping, will touch the material and stick to it.

Gardeners advise to carry out this procedure in the middle of a dry and hot day, while repeating it several times, maintaining short time intervals. Such catching fleas will help to significantly reduce the number of insects in the beds.

Another trap is made using used engine oil, in which a piece of cloth is wetted. Boards are laid out along the beds with radishes, on which the impregnated fabric is laid. To as much as possible more insects trapped, the material needs to be turned over a couple of times a day.

Spraying with infusions

Infusions can be made on the basis of various components. For example, ash and tobacco dust, which are used in dusting, are suitable. There are many popular recipes, each one selects the simplest and most effective in a particular case. Let's take a look at the most common ones.

A glass of ash is poured into one liter of boiling water, mixed and left for 48 hours. After that, rub laundry soap and add it to the infusion. You can also use liquid soap. Radishes are sprayed with this composition.

A glass of tobacco dust should be poured with a bucket of boiling water and left for 24 hours. After that, 100 grams of soap is added, and the infusion is filtered through gauze.



Garlic should be crushed. Stepsons of tomatoes are added to it. The ratio should be 1: 1. The mixture is poured with warm water and infused for 5-6 hours, after which it is filtered, and a little liquid soap is added to the resulting infusion.

It helps in the fight against diseases the observance of crop rotation on personal plot. Since radish is an early ripening crop (harvest can be obtained in about 1 month), there is a temptation to return to the same bed with re-sowing after some time in the same season. Doing so is highly undesirable. Because it can lead to outbreaks various diseases. It is also highly undesirable to plant radishes after cabbage or other cruciferous plants. Good predecessors are onions, garlic, peas, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini.

Pests

The main scourge of radishes is cruciferous fleas - small bugs, usually dark in color, jump well from place to place. They damage radish leaves (make holes in them). And if the damage to the leaf apparatus of the plant reaches a critical size, then the plant abruptly stops growing and may die. At the same time, the root crop does not ripen and does not grow to the desired size. Radish seedlings should be especially protected from fleas. Otherwise, crops can be completely destroyed (eaten). mature plant can still tolerate fleas to some extent. Fleas are especially rampant in dry, hot weather. Early crops of radishes can generally produce a crop before the mass appearance of cruciferous fleas.

The fight against the flea should be carried out by biological methods.
The first method is spraying on the leaves with a solution of wood ash. The solution is prepared as follows: about 2 cups of preferably fresh ash and 50 grams of laundry soap are added to a 10-liter bucket of water. Everything is mixed up. Some make it easier. They collect ashes on a shovel and crush them over the garden. For a while, the flea restricts its malicious activity.

The second way is the same. Only instead of ash they take tobacco dust. It should be said right away that tobacco dust still needs to be looked for in stores, and it costs, although not expensive, but still worth it. And the ash is usually its own, free.

All these methods are still not effective enough. Most Efficient- treatment with an insecticide, for example Inta-Vir. But this should be done only as a last resort, only for medium-sized radishes (ripening time 25 days) and only for young seedlings, if the threat of destruction of crops is large enough.
Another exotic (mechanical) way to deal with the cruciferous flea is to cover the radish with white agrospan right on the seedlings. If the weather is not too hot, then the shoots under it do not stretch out and there are no fleas there. After the seedlings have grown stronger, we remove the non-woven covering material and fight further with ash.

Important note. It is desirable to transfer radishes to drip irrigation. Otherwise, all efforts to combat the flea with the help of infusion on the ashes will be in vain after the first watering on top of the leaves. The infusion is washed off the leaves, and the flea gets back to work.
Another note. If they grow next to radishes cultivated plants and weeds of the cruciferous family, then all the surroundings can be treated with chemistry.

Belyanka is another radish pest. Belyanka is white butterfly with dark wing edging. But the leaves of the radish are eaten by its caterpillars.
When dealing with whitefish, it is also desirable to do without the use of chemistry. The beds must be treated with a solution of mustard, salt and ground pepper. It is prepared like this: for a 10-liter bucket of water - 2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of red or black pepper.

Radish diseases

Bacteriosis. Root crops become slimy, begin to emit a smell of rot. At the same time, the leaves of the radish turn yellow.
To combat this disease, plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Keela. Blisters and outgrowths appear on the surface of root crops, radish leaves begin to turn yellow and wither.
To combat this fungal disease, the soil around damaged plants is watered with milk of lime. Prepare it like this: in a 10-liter bucket of water, dissolve 2 cups of fluffy lime. One plant must be watered with 1 liter of solution.

Blackleg. Young radish plants can be affected by blackleg. The leaves curl and turn yellow, blackening appears at the base of the plant stem.
To combat the black leg, prepare the following solution: dissolve 1 tablespoon in a 10-liter bucket of water blue vitriol and 40-50 grams of laundry soap shavings. Then the diseased plants are sprayed.
It is also very good to spray seedlings with tincture of onion peel(approximately 20 g per liter, leave for 1 day).

When choosing varieties of radish for planting, preference should be given to resistant varieties to various diseases.
But once again we can repeat that it is better to take precautionary measures. And then the probability of diseases will decrease sharply.

Radish belongs to the plants of the Cruciferous (Cabbage) family, therefore, it has the same diseases and pests as all garden crops of this group.

By the way, radishes rarely get sick. Most often, the following diseases of fungal or bacterial origin appear on radishes:

  • bacteriosis - a fungal disease that leads to the formation of putrefactive mucus on root crops, yellowing and death of leaves;
  • powdery mildew (white coating on stems and upper side of leaves) fungal disease leading to blackening and death of the leaves;
  • kila - also a disease of bacterial origin, manifested by growths and swellings on the surface of root crops, leads to yellowing and wilting of leaves;
  • black leg - manifested by yellowing, twisting of the leaves and blackening of the stem at the base.

but the greatest harm culture is caused by harmful insects. About the most dangerous pests let's talk further.

The cruciferous flea is the main enemy of the radish. These are small black bugs that jump in the garden and damage plants. They bite holes in the leaves, and when the damage reaches a critical size, the plant stops its growth and begins to die. Insects are especially active in hot, dry weather, and their main target is exclusively young radishes. Fleas are not as scary for adult plants as they are for young shoots.

The white butterfly is a white butterfly that lays its eggs in the soil. It is not she who is dangerous for radishes, but her caterpillars, which eat leaves, making holes in them.

Medvedka is the most serious enemy of root crops. It is more common in greenhouses because it loves warm soil. The pest eats root crops, forming holes and passages in them.

Cabbage flies - these insects are not averse to eating any cruciferous crops. They lay eggs in the ground, from which larvae appear in a matter of days, eating radishes. If you do not start fighting them in time, then the entire crop will be destroyed.

Firefly is a gray-brown butterfly that is nocturnal and feeds on the leaves of cruciferous crops. Like all butterflies, she lays eggs, from which caterpillars emerge. These caterpillars very actively devour young leaves, which leads to the complete destruction of plants.

The rapeseed bug is a black bug with yellow stripes on its back that appears on radishes as soon as it gets warmer. They eat leaves, forming holes in them, which leads to yellowing and then wilting of plants.

Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles. They eat any root crops, including radishes.

Since the radish loves moist soil, slugs can often be found in its garden. During the day, they hide in the ground between plants, and crawl out at night to feast on the pulp of root crops. Slugs appear in the middle or second half of summer, therefore they are dangerous only for late varieties.

Ways to fight

Insecticides are the surest way to control pests of garden crops, but for radishes their use is not always justified and advisable. The fact is that these drugs lead to the accumulation of such harmful substances like nitrates. If the application of insecticides is stopped a month before harvesting, then the nitrates will have time to leave the plant and will not harm the consumer. The radish very quickly accumulates nitrates in itself, and since the growing season of the crop is short (20–40 days), it does not have time to get rid of them. To nitrates in early vegetables did not cause harm to health, radishes are treated with light insecticides, antiseptics or folk remedies.

Diseases of bacterial origin (powdery mildew, rot, bacteriosis) can be fought with Bordeaux mixture. It is a light complex insecticide with high antiseptic properties. From it, the radish does not accumulate nitrates, since the solution is used only for spraying the tops and does not enter the soil. The drug is effective not only against fungal diseases, but also against many pests, therefore it is used for almost all cultivated plants as a preventive and therapeutic agent.

To combat clubroot, an aqueous solution of slaked lime, popularly called milk of lime, is recommended. To do this, 2 cups of the product must be diluted in 10 liters of water and used to water the plants. Lime is safe for humans; nitrates are not formed from it in radishes. In addition, slaked lime is used in gardening as a fertilizer for the soil, so you don’t have to worry about the quality of root crops.

From a black leg on a radish, a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon / 10 l of water) with the addition of laundry soap (40 g) is effective. Vitriol is an insecticide, but since it is used only for spraying, it does not interact with root crops, and, therefore, nitrates are not formed from it. You can also fight the disease with folk remedies - a decoction of onion peel (20 g / 1 liter), you need to insist it for a day and process the tops of the plants.

It should be remembered that nitrates are formed in root crops from a large amount of organic matter, so the amount of fertilizer should be minimal.

The cruciferous flea and other insects can only be gotten rid of with natural remedies, from which nitrates are not formed in radishes: ash, tobacco dust, laundry soap, wormwood.

Video "Wood ash against pests"

Experienced gardeners use wood ash as natural fertilizer However, it is no less successfully used against pests and diseases. Details in the video.

Processing technology

Whatever method of treatment is used: spraying, watering or spraying a dry mixture, it will be effective only if the product lingers for some time in the soil or on the radish itself. The first surface watering or rain will immediately wash off the product and will not give the desired result. Therefore, if the radish was sprayed with a medicinal solution or sprinkled with a mixture, then it must be transferred to drip irrigation (directly under the roots).

If radishes grow in the vicinity of cruciferous weeds, then they should be watered abundantly with insecticides - otherwise they will become a breeding ground for insects.

It is better to process radishes in dry and calm weather. Usually such work is carried out in the evening. However, to eliminate the flea on the radish, you should choose the daytime, since in the heat the insects are especially active. A flea can be fought not only with the help of solutions and mixtures, but also mechanically: by covering the beds, as well as by hanging sticky tapes to which insects stick. These harmless measures help to wait until the radish grows up, and the fleas are not so dangerous for it.

How to prevent pests

The most reliable way to prevent diseases and pests on radishes is to disinfect seeds and soil when sowing a crop. Crop rotation also effectively solves this problem.

It is important not only to change the location of the beds every year, but also to avoid re-sowing during the season.

Radish is an early ripening vegetable, and many gardeners try to grow several crops per season on the same bed. This is the cause of outbreaks of fungal diseases, which become more active with each subsequent sowing.

Good predecessors for radishes are: potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, legumes, garlic, onion. Since the early radish ripens quite quickly, it can be sown in a plot intended for planting seedlings of peppers, tomatoes, eggplants - this is an example rational use landing area.

In addition, many pests, such as the cruciferous flea, do not like the smell of nightshade crops. She also does not like humidity, and if the radish is watered abundantly, then it is quite possible that the insects will leave the garden.

Not the last role in the cultivation of culture plays proper care. Remove weeds from the beds in a timely manner, since it is from them that the pests move to the beds with cultivated plants. Some gardeners plant plants and flowers next to radishes that emit a special smell that repels pests. Such plants are: tansy, calendula, celandine, marigolds, coriander, dill.

When planning to plant radishes, choose early varieties and resistant to diseases and pests. Early sowing is the most the right way prevent many diseases and obtain a high-quality, intact crop.

Control of pests and diseases of radish in the open field

Control of pests and diseases of radish in the open field

Agrospan protects radish from flea
Agrospan protects radishes from cruciferous flea

Although radishes do not have as many pests and diseases as, for example, tomatoes, they do exist and can destroy most of the crop. This article is an addition to great material about growing radishes.

It helps well in the fight against diseases the observance of crop rotation in the garden. Since radish is an early ripening crop (harvest can be obtained in about 1 month), there is a temptation to return to the same bed with re-sowing after some time in the same season. Doing so is highly undesirable. Since it can lead to outbreaks of various diseases. It is also highly undesirable to plant radishes after cabbage or other cruciferous plants. Good predecessors are onions, garlic, peas, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini.

Pests

The main scourge of radishes is cruciferous fleas - small bugs, usually dark in color, jump well from place to place. They damage radish leaves (make holes in them). And if the damage to the leaf apparatus of the plant reaches a critical size, then the plant abruptly stops growing and may die. At the same time, the root crop does not ripen and does not grow to the desired size. Radish seedlings should be especially protected from fleas. Otherwise, crops can be completely destroyed (eaten). An adult plant can still tolerate fleas to some extent. Fleas are especially rampant in dry, hot weather. Early crops of radishes can generally produce a crop before the mass appearance of cruciferous fleas.

The fight against the flea should be carried out by biological methods.
The first method is spraying on the leaves with a solution of wood ash. The solution is prepared as follows: about 2 cups of preferably fresh ash and 50 grams of laundry soap are added to a 10-liter bucket of water. Everything is mixed up. Some make it easier. They collect ashes on a shovel and crush them over the garden. For a while, the flea restricts its malicious activity.

The second way is the same. Only instead of ash they take tobacco dust. It should be said right away that tobacco dust still needs to be looked for in stores, and it costs, although not expensive, but still worth it. And the ash is usually its own, free.

All these methods are still not effective enough. The most effective is insecticide treatment, such as Inta-Vir. But this should be done only as a last resort, only for medium-sized radishes (ripening time 25 days) and only for young seedlings, if the threat of destruction of crops is large enough.
Another exotic (mechanical) way to deal with the cruciferous flea is to cover the radish with white agrospan right on the seedlings. If the weather is not too hot, then the shoots under it do not stretch out and there are no fleas there. After the seedlings have grown stronger, we remove the non-woven covering material and fight further with ash.

Important note. It is desirable to transfer radishes to drip irrigation. Otherwise, all efforts to combat the flea with the help of infusion on the ashes will be in vain after the first watering on top of the leaves. The infusion is washed off the leaves, and the flea gets back to work.
Another note. If cultivated plants and weeds of the cruciferous family grow next to radishes, then all the surroundings can be treated with chemistry.

Belyanka is another radish pest. Belyanka is a white butterfly with dark wing edging. But the leaves of the radish are eaten by its caterpillars.
When dealing with whitefish, it is also desirable to do without the use of chemistry. The beds must be treated with a solution of mustard, salt and ground pepper. It is prepared like this: for a 10-liter bucket of water - 2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of red or black pepper.

Radish diseases

Bacteriosis. Root crops become slimy, begin to emit a smell of rot. At the same time, the leaves of the radish turn yellow.
To combat this disease, plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Keela. Blisters and outgrowths appear on the surface of root crops, radish leaves begin to turn yellow and wither.
To combat this fungal disease, the soil around damaged plants is watered with milk of lime. Prepare it like this: in a 10-liter bucket of water, dissolve 2 cups of fluffy lime. One plant must be watered with 1 liter of solution.

Blackleg. Young radish plants can be affected by blackleg. The leaves curl and turn yellow, blackening appears at the base of the plant stem.
To combat the black leg, the following solution is prepared: in a 10-liter bucket of water, dissolve 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate and 40-50 grams of laundry soap shavings. Then the diseased plants are sprayed.
It is also very good to spray seedlings with onion peel tincture 2-3 times with an interval of 6 days (about 20 g per liter, leave for 1 day).

When choosing varieties of radish for planting, preference should be given to resistant varieties to various diseases.
But once again we can repeat that it is better to take precautionary measures. And then the probability of diseases will decrease sharply.