How to properly lay aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete construction involves laying walls from blocks in compliance with a certain technology. The main task is what to put on aerated concrete blocks?

Consider the types of solutions, foam, mixtures and adhesives for laying gas blocks. Comparative analysis characteristics and properties will make right choice... You will find out which glue is better, how much is consumed, when and how it can be applied, the cost different manufacturers+ tips for preparation and application.

In practice, several types of adhesive mixtures are used for laying aerated concrete. However, there are only two popular options:

Cement-sand mortar for aerated concrete masonry

Is it possible to put gas blocks on cement mortar?

Usage cement mortar for laying aerated concrete is not recommended for several reasons:

seam thickness 10-12 mm;

the composition of the solution is not constant;

a long preparatory period, from sifting sand to kneading, which increases the terms of work;

significant dustiness of work;

the appearance of cold bridges at the junction of the blocks, and this is additional heat loss;

difficulty in laying walls in winter. Due to frost, the mixture must be either kneaded in small portions, or constantly heated.

Note. The cement mortar is justified when laying aerated concrete blocks of the second category. Layed in a large layer, it allows you to fill in the voids caused by the disturbed geometry of the block.

Adhesive for aerated concrete masonry

The main components of the glue (special adhesive mixtures or thin-layer mastics): cement, fine sand, polymer binders, modifying additives, the presence of which allows the solution not to solidify at a temperature of -10 ° C.

Tool for applying glue to aerated concrete blocks

Appeared on the market new instrument that simplifies the application of the adhesive solution (controlled thickness of the adhesive layer when laying aerated concrete) - a special container, bucket trowel or carriage for aerated concrete. These are different names for the same device.

Thanks to these devices, the laying of aerated concrete blocks is performed faster and with a minimum consumption of glue, and the cost of work is reduced.

Advantages of glue for gas blocks:

the plasticity of the material and the fine-grained filler (no more than 0.63 mm) makes it possible to achieve a seam thickness of 2-3 mm. Those. consumption is reduced by at least 4 times, and the thickness of the seam decreases, which reduces the total area of the joints and, as a result, excludes the growth of heat loss through the seams;

a bag of dry glue mixture (25 kg) requires only 5.5 liters of water. This means that the moisture content of aerated concrete will not increase significantly;

the composition of the adhesive solution is always the same, which allows to ensure the same adhesion rates;

the mixture contains additives (anti-frost), giving it frost resistance and moisture resistance;

glue can be used as a putty. This eliminates the appearance of residues;

amount of glue from ready mix it is easier to knead as much as you need for work;

the presence of special winter adhesives for aerated concrete allows you to work in the cold season;

the glue is able to harden without shrinkage.

The only conditional disadvantage of the glue is the setting time. The glue hardens for about 10 minutes. At the first stage, this can create certain difficulties for beginners.

How to use glue for aerated concrete correctly

keep warm (not lower than + 5 ° С);

knead with warm water (up to + 60 ° С);

aerated concrete should not be covered with snow (in this case, its moisture content increases, which means that the properties of the glue decrease);

glue spatulas or carriages should be kept in warm water;

use containers only for glue, otherwise the appearance of larger impurities is possible. This will not significantly affect the properties of the glue, but it is necessary on the thickness of the layer (as a result, glue overrun).

As the main argument, adherents of the classic recipe for cement mortar call high cost glue. Correctly and objectively, the glue mixture is more expensive. But if we take into account the consumption of glue for aerated concrete per m3, it turns out that a bag of glue mixture is enough for 1 cubic meter of aerated concrete, and only a third of the "home" solution, then the cost overrun is obvious.

How to choose a glue for aerated blocks?

The solution to the issue is complicated by the significant variety of adhesives on the market.

The easiest way to decide is to run small tests.

Test 1... Take several types of glue and glue two aerated concrete blocks each. Break the connection in a day and look at the place of the fault. If the break goes along the seam, such glue is not suitable for use. If the blocks themselves were partially deformed, and partially along the seam, then the use of such glue raises doubts. If the seam remains intact, and the gas block is damaged, this is best glue for aerated concrete. It is this glue that should be preferred.

Test 2... Prepare for use 1 kg of each of the tested types of adhesive. Fill in the same containers with them. After hardening (24 hours), weigh. Preference should be given to glue from the container, the weight of which is less. Low weight means that most of the moisture is gone, which means that the mixture is less heat-conducting.

Anticipating a healthy dose of irony from our readers, we note that testing multiple adhesives is certainly a troublesome and costly business. But it will be useful for those who have a couple of types of glue and do not know which one to choose.

We will indicate those brands of glue for aerated concrete blocks that have been tested by professionals and have earned their approval.

Manufacturers and cost of glue for aerated concrete

Today you can buy glue for aerated concrete in many building online stores. Before placing an order, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the top three leaders, by number positive feedback(the table shows manufacturers and average prices at the end of 2015)

Manufacturer	Glue cost	Consumption of glue kg per 1 sq. M with a layer of 2 mm	Seam thickness, mm
Ceresit CT 21 (+ "Winter")	RUB 300/25 kg	2,6	2-10
Baumit PorenbetonKleber Baumit PorenbetonKleber Winter (winter)	RUB 200/25 kg RUB 270/25 kg	2,5-3	2-3
KREISEL 125 (Kreisel)	RUB 250/25 kg	2,5-3	1-3
Good reviews about glue for gas blocks (second three)
Osnovit Selform MC112 (T-112)	199 rub / 20 kg	2,6	1-5
AEROC winter	RUB 240/25 kg	2-3	1-5
Ytong-economy (winter solution)	RUB 260/25 kg	3-3,2	1-3
Bonolit	220 rub / 25 kg	2,6-3	2-8

As you can see, adhesives are presented in different price categories, despite approximately the same composition and purpose.

It is worth noting that a modern adhesive material for laying aerated concrete blocks has appeared -.

The unique technology of using foam allows you to make a very thin seam and eliminate cold seam bridges, along with incredible economy (1 cylinder = 1 cubic meter of masonry) and high adhesion.

The novelty is still treated with caution. Due to the lack of confirmation of tests by time, manufacturers are limited to recommendations for the use of adhesive foam for internal self load-bearing walls... V European countries already actively use foam for stacking blocks.

Material prepared for the site www.site

Consumption of glue for aerated concrete

A 25 kg bag of dry mix is dissolved in 5-6 liters of water, resulting in 18 liters of ready-made glue from the bag.

Consumption of glue (dry masonry mixture) for thin-seam laying (seam 1-3 mm) per cubic meter. is 16-17 kg.

The life of the ready-made adhesive mixture is 2-3 hours. The time for adjusting the blocks after laying is 10-15 minutes.

The consumption of glue for aerated concrete directly depends on the size (the indicated design data are oriented to blocks 600 mm long and 300 mm high) and the quality of the surfaces of the aerated concrete (poor geometry, chips and defects increase consumption), as well as on the professionalism of the bricklayer. Therefore, the calculated values may differ from the real ones. Better to calculate with a margin.

Formula for calculating the consumption of glue

P - consumption of dry mixture of glue, kg per cubic meter aerated concrete masonry;
L is the length of the gas block (m);
H - gas block height (m);
d - seam thickness (mm);
1.4 - the calculated value of the consumption of the dry mixture for the glue (kg / m2 with a layer thickness of 1 mm).

What affects the price of glue for aerated concrete?

place of purchase (retail store, wholesale warehouse, online store);
delivery (pickup);
purchase volume (by the piece, wholesale);
brand awareness.

Technology for preparing glue for aerated concrete

Each manufacturer applies instructions for use on the packaging. But as general rules we indicate:

the required volume of water is measured;

the mixture is poured into the water in small batches;

mixed with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is obtained for 5 minutes;

the mass should "rest" for 5-10 minutes during this time the polymer additives will open up;

stir the solution again;

stir the solution periodically during operation.

The optimal consistency is considered to be such that the teeth that appeared on the surface after applying the glue with a notched trowel (comb) do not blur.

Advice. Add water to mixed adhesive solution in the process of work is unacceptable, this will reduce its adhesive properties. Therefore, you should prepare a small portion of glue, sufficient to work for half an hour.

When can aerated concrete be laid?

When deciding on the choice of glue for aerated concrete, it should be remembered that external factors also affect the adhesion of the adhesive. Many are interested in whether it is possible to lay aerated concrete in winter, in frost, in rain, at what temperature, etc.

External factors:

humidity environment ... Aerated concrete walls should be laid during the dry season. Then the glue will harden at the optimum speed. During rain, snow and strong wind, it is prohibited. Actually, as it is undesirable to work with dirty, wet and icy blocks;

air temperature... The hotter, the faster the hardening process will go, which can lead to shrinkage cracks. In the cold season, the glue will harden more slowly.

Advice. In the case of laying blocks in winter, a container with glue should be wrapped in summer glue and sealed with hot water.

How to properly lay aerated concrete on glue

preparation of the block. Aerated concrete block suitable for work must be of the correct size and free of contamination (dust, dirt, snow are not allowed). Excessive moisture in the block is also undesirable;

the block is not moistened before glue is applied (!);

to reduce the consumption of glue, it is applied to the surface of the aerated concrete block with a notched trowel or carriage;

excess glue is removed after hardening. They are cut off with a trowel (except for smearing glue on the front surface of the block).

Comparing in this way adhesives for aerated concrete and cement-sand mixture, one can draw an unambiguous conclusion in favor of using ready-made adhesive mortars.

Regular readers of our portal are well aware that within the framework of the project we are building a modern and energy-efficient house from aerated concrete. After the completion of the work, the so-called. "Zero cycle", with which you can familiarize yourself in, we moved on to the next most important stage - masonry aerated concrete walls.

The purpose of this material is to go beyond and, with the help of specialists, tell you how to properly build a house from aerated concrete. In the format of a master class, professional builders will share with you the secrets of mastery. Namely:

What tools are needed to build a house from aerated concrete blocks.
How to lay the first row of masonry correctly.
What to make jumpers and armored belts.

Tools needed to build a house from aerated concrete

One of key features aerated concrete - ease of processing blocks. Aerated concrete can be sawn, grinded, grinded, grooved, having an inexpensive set of simple hand tools in your arsenal. At the same time, when choosing a tool, it should be remembered that the quality and speed of work largely depends on its characteristics.

The minimum set includes:

Trowel. With this tool, the surface of aerated concrete blocks is evenly applied adhesive composition... The trowel provides a strict standardization of the mixture, which guarantees the fine seam of the masonry. For convenience, speed and quality of work, the width of the working part of the trowel should correspond to the thickness of the aerated concrete block.

Saw on aerated concrete. Saw for aerated concrete blocks is hand tool- a hacksaw, which differs from a saw for wood in a larger blade thickness and the shape of the saw teeth.

Using a saw, you can cut the aerated concrete block in half, cut additional elements from the blocks, make the necessary technological protrusions in the block.

Mallet. The rubber hammer allows the stacked blocks to be upset and aligned vertically and horizontally without damaging their surface.

Aerated concrete planer. it special tool, necessary for grinding small irregularities and differences in height on aerated concrete.

Saw blades are fixed in the working part (sole) of the planer. Due to the multidirectional position of the teeth, the tool grinds the surface of the aerated concrete block without leaving deep grooves on it.

Sanding board. The tool allows you to grind roughness on the surface of aerated concrete or rub the surface after using a planer.

Bubble level. The tool is necessary to control the geometry of the masonry (flatness of the plane of the laid blocks) both horizontally and vertically. The optimum length for the bubble level is from 600 to 800 mm.

Wall chaser. The tool is used for fast production strobe for laying reinforcement (reinforcement of masonry under window openings), as well as for cutting cable channels for laying utility lines, for example, electrical wiring.

In addition to the above tools, to build a house from aerated concrete you will need:

A spatula - it is necessary to remove excess mortar from the joints and grout the surface of the blocks from dirt and chips.
Brush-broom - with its help all dust must be removed from the blocks, remaining after sanding and grouting surfaces.
A square, which is used to mark places for sawing blocks with a saw on aerated concrete.
Marking construction lace mooring.

How to properly lay the first row of aerated concrete blocks

The most important stage in the construction of an aerated concrete house is correct laying of the first row of aerated concrete blocks, since from this totally depends correct geometry overlying rows. The work is divided into a number of sequential steps, the first of which is the layout on the waterproofing foundation.

Waterproofing material can be glued, coated or rolled. Practice shows that it is the most technologically advanced in work. roll waterproofing that simply rolls out onto the surface of the foundation.

Waterproofing is necessary to prevent the capillary rise of moisture from the foundation into the load-bearing walls.

The laying of aerated concrete walls begins with the laying of corner blocks, but before that it is necessary to make a markup in order to expose the contours of the walls in accordance with the project.

To do this, stakes are driven into the ground at the corners of the foundation (the so-called cast-off) and a marking lace is attached to them, on screws.

The laces at the corners should intersect at right angles. To check the geometry, the width, length and diagonals are measured (they must be equal).

Important: the installation of the cast-off is required. If you try to measure the geometry of the walls using blocks laid in the corners, then during the measurement they may move, and the result will be inaccurate.

One of the most common mistakes when installing rags is the installation of pallets with blocks inside the perimeter of the foundation, for example, aerated concrete is placed on a slab. As a result, it is impossible to accurately measure the diagonals.

After the waterproofing has been mounted and the contours of the building have been cast, we proceed to the second stage - measuring the difference in the heights of the foundation. To do this, you can use an optical or laser level, or get by with a conventional hydro level.

The difference in foundation heights (between the highest point and the lowest) should not exceed 30-40 mm. If the height difference is greater, then it is necessary to level the foundation plane using a concrete mixture.

The third stage is the laying of corner blocks. Highly it is important to lay corner blocks with millimeter precision... If you do not follow this rule and lay blocks with a height difference of even 2-3 mm, then as the walls are erected and errors accumulate at the finish, we will get a significant discrepancy in the level of the upper rows of masonry.

Vitaly Bykov

Unlike the foundation, where elevation differences can be observed, aerated concrete blocks have high geometric accuracy. Accuracy of aerated concrete block manufacturing + - 1-2 mm. Because the plane of the foundation can walk by centimeters, we need to lay the first row of blocks so as to level this error and bring the entire row to 0 on the horizon. For this, the first row of blocks is laid on the CPF (cement- sand mortar) with a thickness of 2 to 5 cm. Moreover, the thickness of the mixture may vary depending on the unevenness of the foundation.

Having measured the height difference of the foundation, we found the most high point, with which we begin laying the corner blocks on the DSP. The intersection of the lace shows the location of the corner blocks. Blocks, when stacked on the DSP, are upset with a rubber mallet.

The horizontality of the stacked blocks is controlled with a bubble level. Only after the corner stones have been precisely set and the mortar has set, you can start filling the entire first row with aerated concrete.

After laying the corner blocks, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical deviations again. We are guided by the rule: "it is better to measure everything seven times than to make a mistake once."

To continue laying the first row, you need to wait until the DSP grabs under the laid corner blocks. This may take 6-8 hours. If you start laying earlier, the corner blocks may move.

The rest of the blocks are laid along a stretched cord. At the same time, we make sure that the blocks do not pull the lace. It is optimal when a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the block and the stretched thread. Otherwise, an offset lace will lead to a deviation of the entire row.

If the distance between the corner blocks exceeds 10 meters, then between them, so that the lace does not sag, a third is laid - an intermediate block, to which the thread clings.

Important: laying on the central heating station is allowed only for installing the first row of aerated concrete blocks, which is in direct contact with the foundation. In the future, all work is carried out using a special glue for aerated concrete, which provides a fine seam of the masonry of 1-3 mm and thereby minimizes cold bridges.

Before installing the aerated concrete block, you need to prepare it. To do this, take a spatula and remove dirt from the block, brush off the dust with a brush.

We coat the vertical seams with glue using a trowel.

We install the block without docking it with the already laid one. Align the block with building level and, only after the block is horizontally aligned, do we dock it with the previous one, upsetting it with a mallet to get a single horizontal plane.

To fill the gap between the sides, into which the whole block cannot be laid, we cut out the additional block using a hacksaw on aerated concrete.

The filler block is also laid on the DSP, and the ends are coated with glue.

As a result, we have an absolutely flat horizontal surface of the first row, in which the top is brought to 0, and the drop is eliminated due to the DSP layer.

To start laying the second row, it is necessary to wait until the cement-sand mixture hardens and gains strength. It takes 6-8 hours. When the thickness of the DSP is more than 2 cm and with unfavorable weather conditions(dampness, rain, low temperatures) it may take 24 hours for the mixture to dry completely.

Vitaly Bykov

Careful preparation of the first row ensures high laying speed and precise geometry of all subsequent rows.

The surface of the first row of blocks before laying the second row is prepared (leveled) using a planer on aerated concrete and a sanding board. The plane grinds down irregularities at the joints of the blocks.

Sanding with a circular motion gives the blocks a horizontal finishing surface. Due to the abrasive, small circular grooves remain on the block, which ensures better adhesion of the adhesive to aerated concrete.

Masonry of load-bearing and non-load-bearing partitions, production of lintels and armored belts

Load-bearing partitions are laid when laying the first row. Curtain walls (partitions) can be installed after the load-bearing walls have been erected.

Load-bearing partitions are attached to the load-bearing walls using flexible special metal ties. The bonds are established after applying the adhesive, pressing into the composition. Flexible ties for aerated concrete are made of stainless steel. They are perforated for better adhesion of the bonds in the masonry.

The ligation of load-bearing walls and load-bearing partitions is carried out over the entire width of the block (wall thickness) through 1 row.

The depth of the vertical (solid) dressing of the blocks in the wall must be at least 125 mm.

Important: a trowel is used for laying aerated concrete on a thin glue seam. Before laying, the blocks must be dedusted.

Vitaly Bykov

In order for the adhesive to completely fill the vertical seam, the end of the block is coated with a mixture not over the entire surface, but not reaching 1-2 cm to the bottom. The block to be laid is placed on the edge at an angle to the installed one and only then is it lowered down. The result: the adhesive in the vertical joint is evenly distributed over the entire surface. If you apply glue to the entire end, then when the block is lowered, the excess glue will squeeze out, and the thickness of the vertical seam in the lower part will increase.

When constructing window-sill openings, one row before creating the opening, it is necessary to reinforce the masonry. For this, the masonry is grooved (the size of the groove is 40x40 mm), reinforcement with a diameter of at least 8 mm is laid in the groove, and the groove is then filled with the DSP.

The construction of buildings made of aerated concrete is associated with some peculiarities. Aerated concrete has significant differences from cinder block or brick. Therefore, it is naive to believe that it is so easy to use relatively cheap aerated concrete blocks. Before starting work, you should carefully study not only the properties of aerated concrete, but also the technology of its laying. It is also important to know the conditions under which the structure will be as reliable and durable as possible.

Gas blocks are much easier to fit than bricks or cinder block. This is due to the presence of almost flat surfaces of the blocks. Even with small protrusions or some other flaws, the gas blocks are easily aligned in the same row using simple cutting tools, since you can even cut it with a regular saw or hacksaw.

Installation of aerated concrete blocks begins from the corner that is located above all. Each row is checked by a hydro level.

Construction starts from the foundation. Usually its surface is far from ideal. For this purpose, after laying the waterproofing, the foundation is covered with a layer of cement mortar. The first row is placed on this solution. Due to the relatively thick layer of mortar, ideal evenness of the blocks of the first row is achieved. The lower surfaces of the blocks of the first row are moistened to prevent them from absorbing moisture from the solution.

In the video - do-it-yourself laying of aerated concrete blocks using the example of building a bath:

Aerated concrete block calculator

The network has many resources that allow you to calculate the required number of aerated concrete blocks. To do this, you need to specify the following data for your building:

The total length of the outer walls.
The height of the walls.
The dimensions of the unit you will be using.
The cost of a cubic meter of material.
The area of doors and windows.
The total length of all internal partitions.
Dimensions of blocks used to create partitions.
The area of windows and doors placed on partitions.
These calculations will help you calculate exact amount gas blocks, as well as their approximate cost.

Brief instructions for laying

First row of blocks must be laid on a waterproofing layer that will protect the material from moisture sucking from the foundation. The very first row of blocks is not laid on glue, but on ordinary cement mortar. It is advisable to start laying from the corners, stretching a marking cord between them.

If the gap remaining in the row has a length less than the whole block, the additional block is cut according to the specified dimensions. Regular rows stacked on a glue mortar with the obligatory bandaging of blocks, as with brickwork.

Applying glue to gas blocks it is made with a spatula or a special carriage, the width of which is equal to the width of the masonry. It is also advisable to coat the sides of the blocks with glue, especially if the subsequent finishing of one of the sides of the room will be absent.

The layer of glue should not be thick, as it provides an excellent joint connection even at the lowest consumption. The prices for glue are quite different and depend on its volume and brand of the manufacturer.

Aligning Blocks the level is made with a rubber or wooden hammer.

Reinforcement of masonry

It should be understood that the reinforcement does not strengthen the masonry, but only prevents cracks from appearing on the walls. Nevertheless, this operation is recommended for the construction of any large object. Not all ranks are being reinforced, but only some of the most vulnerable areas. These are the locations of the lintels, support zones, the first row of masonry, zones under window openings. The upper part of the gas blocks is reinforced along the length.

Reinforcement material can be of two types:

Two-row frame steel wire rigidly interconnected by thinner bridges. The frame is laid in one layer.
Steel reinforcement with a cross section of 6-8 mm. Reinforcement requires the laying of two parallel rows of reinforcement.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to cut grooves in the aerated concrete. To do this, use a conventional wall chaser. The strobes are cleaned of dust and filled with glue. Then the reinforcing material is laid in them, removing the remnants of the glue.

What is needed when installing aerated concrete blocks

Waterproofing aerated concrete protects the blocks from moisture, therefore, it must be present between the walls and the foundation. Waterproofing can be rolled or coated.

On sale you can find various brands of aerated concrete blocks. In addition, they can be not only standard sizes, but also with additional elements, which help to facilitate the process of building houses with your own hands.

Construction technology from aerated concrete blocks

It is recommended to build any aerated concrete structures in warm weather, more than +5 degrees, but not higher than +25. If you have to work in the heat, then the surfaces of the blocks must be moistened with water. When working in cold period special antifreeze additives should be added to the adhesive.

Masonry adhesive prepares before starting work. Water is poured into the dry mixture and mixed until the desired density. For laying the outer walls, gas blocks 375-400 mm thick are used, respectively, the same thickness will be finished wall... All partitions, if necessary, are laid out in blocks of 200-250 mm.

There should be no level differences between adjacent blocks. The drops will lead to the formation of vertical cracks and cold bridges. To level the row, after laying it, the aerated concrete surface is cleaned with a float or a special plane.

When forming window or door spans used as overlaps metal corners, wooden beams or reinforced concrete beams. All partitions must be cut into the main walls. For this, the material is removed from the walls by about a quarter.

When laying the uppermost row, the peculiarities of the overlap should be taken into account. Usually, the last row contains U-blocks, on which the floor beams and the roof are laid.

Building a house from aerated concrete blocks:

Average styling cost

If we compare the prices for laying a brick house and a house made of aerated concrete, then the difference will be about 40% in favor of aerated concrete. This comes from the following features:

Aerated concrete itself is cheaper than brick.
The cost of masonry is reduced by using glue instead of conventional cement mortar. In addition, the use of such a composition makes the laying smoother.
Much less glue is required than the mortar used for brickwork (about 5 times).
The lighter weight of the blocks reduces the weight load of the walls on the foundation, as a result of which it can be made not too massive.
Reduced transportation and stowage costs.
Savings on the use of construction equipment.

Taking into account other positive factors, the conclusion is obvious - this is a more economical and less labor-intensive material, houses and buildings from which are in no way inferior to houses made of traditional materials.

In the modern building world, there are many materials for building a house. But among the many options, there is undoubtedly aerated concrete that is optimal. Among the many advantages of this material, one of them is that laying aerated concrete walls does not require special skills and tools. It will be easy to build a house with your own hands even for a beginner in this business.

Build a reliable and warm house everyone can do it. If you decide to build from aerated concrete and plan to do everything yourself, that's half the battle. Following simple instructions, your home will be a reliable fortress.

Stages of work on laying aerated concrete

Instrument preparation

Aerated concrete laying does not require many tools. It is necessary to prepare such a tool:

trowel;
ladle;
notched trowel;
mallet;
hacksaw;
wall chaser;
broom brush;
plane;
roulette;
level (desirable);
trowel for grouting.

Foundation waterproofing

Since aerated concrete blocks easily absorb moisture, it is necessary to isolate them from possible moisture ingress. This process is simple, you can do it yourself. To do this, a bituminous hydro-barrier is laid on the foundation - roofing material or its analogue. Option of insulation with a special polymer-cement dry mixture is possible.

First row masonry

Laying aerated concrete blocks is a simple process, but the most important thing in the construction of walls is the laying of the first row. If everything is done correctly, further work will turn into easy and enjoyable work.

The first blocks are placed in the corners of the entire foundation. These are lighthouse blocks. It is important to align them vertically and horizontally exactly. If the foundation is uneven, the alignment should be done using a sand-cement mortar, you can do it yourself (ratio 3: 1).

On one of the corners, directly on the roofing material with a ladle, put a 2-centimeter ball of glue or mortar, put a block on it, level it with a level and a rubber mallet. The protrusion of aerated concrete blocks beyond the base is recommended to be no more than 50 mm.

When the lighthouse blocks are exposed, it is necessary to check the diagonals of the future building. They must be exactly the same. To do this, you can use a tool such as a tape measure, cable or rope, something that does not stretch. After aligning and checking, pull the cord between the beacon units and fasten it securely. The gap between the edge of the aerated concrete blocks and the cord is 2-3 mm. So that the cord does not sag, you can put it in the middle on the block.

Next, we fill the space between the lighthouse blocks, trying to put the blocks as accurately as possible, stick to the exposed cord. From time to time it is necessary to check the level of the vertical and horizontal of the laid aerated concrete blocks. So that the masonry is beautiful and pride in the creation with our own hands was at a height, we rub the seams with a grater - a special tool that makes it easy to perform this procedure.

When the entire row of blocks is exposed, allow the mortar or glue to set for 2-3 hours. During this time, you need to prepare the reinforcement for the reinforcement of the first row.

Reinforcement of aerated concrete blocks

Many people think that reinforcement is a waste of money. We can agree with this point of view, because the reinforcement does not increase the bearing capacity of the masonry. But without reinforcement during operation, the aerated concrete blocks will be covered with cracks and the aesthetic appearance of the house will be spoiled. It is only necessary to reinforce the bearing external walls; this does not apply to partitions.

So, the first row has dried up, you can take on the reinforcement. Follow this work algorithm.

Strobel - a special tool with which grooves are made - we make small grooves (grooves). If there is no strobe, you can use another tool, for example, a chisel.
Make grooves on both sides of the block. The distance from the edge is not less than 60 mm.
Brush off the dust from the strobes, pick large pieces of aerated concrete with your hands.
Pour water into the grooves obtained so that the aerated concrete blocks gain moisture.
Fill the grooves up to half with the solution.
Place reinforcement 8 mm in diameter in the grooves. Make an overlap of at least 40 mm at the joints of the reinforcement.
Fill the groove with reinforcement with mortar completely.
Level the surface using the plane tool and grater.

Bandaging and laying of aerated concrete blocks

The second and subsequent rows should be laid in the same way as the first. It is important to do the bandaging of aerated concrete blocks for the strength of the walls. The stages of work are as follows.

Remove dust from the surface of the blocks with a brush.
Check with a level for unevenness.
Pour water over the surface.
Apply the solution to a wet surface.
Using a comb-spatula, smooth out the glue so that its thickness does not exceed 2-3 mm. If the glue rolls off, does not absorb or hardens quickly, moisten the blocks with plenty of water again.
Place the first lighthouse block in such a way that a dressing is obtained.
Place corner blocks.
Pull the lace between the beacons.
Check everything with the level.
Put a block near the openings, and then cut off the excess part of the block with a hacksaw.

It is essential to consider the following points:

check all sides of the blocks with a level so that the masonry is even on all sides;
masonry cannot be carried out in a circle, but strictly towards each other from the lighthouses;
the dressing should be at least 150 mm.

Jumper setting

An important stage of construction is the installation of jumpers. It is also easy to install the jumpers from the gas block with your own hands. To do this, first we make a base on which the blocks will lie. The base must be strong and reliable so that the upper blocks do not deform it. It is installed directly on the opening blocks.

On the installed base, carefully and carefully lay trough aerated concrete blocks, gluing them together. We install the reinforcement cage inside and fill it with concrete. Use concrete for lintels as for the foundation, that is, of a higher grade than for masonry walls.

Laying partitions

Laying partitions from aerated concrete blocks does not particularly differ from the laying of load-bearing walls. Installation of partitions can be done from blocks with a thickness of 100 mm. They are not reinforced and can lie not on the foundation, but on any surface, while the device of partitions allows them to be vibration-insulated from the load-bearing walls. In this case, the following points should be taken into account:

the blocks are not glued directly to the base, they are installed on a gasket, which excludes the transmission of structure-borne noise from external walls;
they also do not attach to outside walls jumpering method;
temporary guides are attached to the walls ( wooden bar, metallic profile) on which the laying will be carried out;
a vibration-damping strip is glued to the floor: polyethylene foam, cork, hard mineral board;
the same strip is installed on the wall;
you can simply leave a gap of 15 mm, which is subsequently filled with polyurethane foam;
the rest of the process is the same as for blocks.

As you can see, building a house with your own hands from a material such as aerated concrete block is not only easy, but easy and simple, reliable and pleasant.

Comments:

Today, the laying of aerated concrete blocks is one of the most demanded types of work in the construction industry. Aerated concrete is fake diamond, one of the types of aerated concrete. This material is considered one of the types of stone foam, on the surface of which pores with a diameter of 1-3 mm are evenly located.

The composition of aerated concrete blocks includes: cement, lime, quartz sand, gypsum stone, aluminum powder and water.

The composition of aerated concrete includes quartz sand, cement, special additives (blowing agents), sometimes gypsum and lime are added. All components are mixed, water is added to them, then the resulting solution is sent under the press. Aerated concrete blocks are formed under a special press. Such materials are used in construction for the construction of cottages, low-rise and high-rise buildings as well as for partition, load-bearing and curtain walls.

What is attractive about aerated concrete

Aerated concrete blocks appeared in the history of construction about 100 years ago, and nevertheless they pose serious competition to bricks in the construction market. This is due to the demand for aerated concrete. There are a number of positive signs why aerated concrete is preferred over other building materials:

Aerated concrete has high thermal insulation properties... Due to the pores formed on the surface of aerated concrete, it accumulates warm air... It is for this reason that aerated concrete has excellent thermal insulation characteristics.
High vapor permeability. Mold, various kinds of fungi that harm human health, etc. do not appear on the walls made of aerated concrete.
Excellent frost resistance. If a building made of aerated concrete is being built in places where there is frequent variable climate change, then this does not in any way worsen positive properties aerated concrete. The frost resistance of this material is 100 cycles.
Porosity. It is an excellent heat insulator for any room.
High sound insulation. In modern rooms, increased sound insulation is often required. This is done with heavy framing elements or additional applications. soundproof materials... Using aerated concrete, you can not think about extra costs for soundproofing.
Durability. Under normal weather conditions, aerated concrete can last up to 150 years.
Environmentally friendly product. Despite the fact that this artificial material, it is made from natural materials... In operation, aerated concrete will harm humans and the environment.
Fire resistance. Aerated concrete is a non-combustible building material. Thanks to the experiments carried out, it became known that aerated concrete can withstand temperatures exceeding 400 ° C. Moreover, at elevated temperatures, the strength characteristics of aerated concrete increase by almost 87%.
Convenient to use. Considering that aerated concrete looks very massive, this is enough light material... It is easy to process, you can easily break it, saw off the necessary part, etc. This stone has precise geometric characteristics. It is quite smooth and does not require additional processing.
Low price. Despite all their positive traits, the price of aerated concrete is comparatively lower than other building materials.
Due to its mass, it can be used in complex structural elements.
Aerated concrete is considered an energy-saving building material. Due to the fact that the thermal conductivity of this building material is several times less than that of other materials, this helps to save on electricity.

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Types of aerated concrete

There are two main types of this unique building material:

... It is formed in the natural hardening sphere.
... Has the properties of stone and wood. It is very hard and lightweight. Possesses high energy-saving and heat-insulating properties. It is formed under special conditions that allow the material to harden at elevated pressure and high temperature. Its production is carried out in special autoclave ovens.

Aerated concrete is often used for the construction of low-rise buildings, as well as for the construction of load-bearing walls. It can also be used for the construction of high-rise buildings, but as an aggregate for reinforced concrete wall frames.

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In order to do it right, you will need tools such as:

A trowel with a toothed profile. It helps to apply the adhesive of the required thickness.
In order to align, you need a special plane.
Saw with teeth. It is necessary for the preparation of additional blocks. This saw must have a high hardness.
Level. It is necessary to monitor the evenness of the laid row.
Grater.
Marking square.
Soft brush.
Level.
Plumb line.
Master OK.
Rubber hammer.
Drill with attachment. It is necessary for mixing small amounts of glue.

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Step-by-step instructions for building a house from aerated concrete

The technology of laying aerated concrete is no different from laying a brick or cinder block. The only difference is what material is used to hold the blocks together. After the foundation made in advance has dried, you can start laying aerated concrete. Aerated concrete is laid at a temperature of 5-25 ° C. If the temperature is higher than the specified one, then it is necessary to constantly moisten the surface of the blocks. If it is lower, then special adhesive additives are used.

Everyone knows that the first laid out row should be even and neat. The evenness of the whole house depends on this. First you need to check the quality of the aerated concrete block and clean it of dust, snow and dirt. Then you need to lay a waterproofing layer. Roofing material is perfect as waterproofing. Care must be taken to ensure that the concrete surface is even. This will require the use of a level or level. Uneven blocks must be leveled with a plane. Laying the gas block starts from the corners of the building and continues along the entire perimeter.

In order to correctly lay out the first row, it is necessary to pull the thread along which the aerated concrete blocks are laid. The laid out blocks must be checked by the level - horizontal and vertical slope. The evenness of the walls in the room depends on the horizontal slope.

In order to lay out the second row, it is necessary that the base of the first row is well dried. The second row must be started from the corner. Aerated concrete should be laid in a checkerboard pattern.

We put the next rows in half a side.

In order to get strong walls, it is necessary to reinforce aerated concrete blocks with the help of welded mesh... In addition, it is necessary to reinforce the first row of the foundation, window and door openings.

It is very important to remember about the joints of aerated concrete blocks with erecting walls.

Every 3-4 blocks it is necessary to drill a hole into which the reinforcement is driven. Such reinforcement will help create a single whole room.

If the ceiling height is more than 3 m, then additional reinforcement of aerated concrete blocks is required.