• Landing: in open ground - in May, when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 ˚C.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: light, fertile, permeable, with a pH of 6-7 pH.
• Watering: before the beginning of the formation of buds - abundantly, but not more often than once a week, at the stage of formation of 4-5 leaves, watering is stopped and resumed only with the beginning of flowering, gradually increasing the water consumption.
• Loosening and hilling: the first time - shallow, when the seedlings reach a height of 7 cm, the second time - 2 weeks after the first, while hilling the bushes, the third loosening with simultaneous hilling of the bushes is carried out before closing the rows.
• Garter: needs supports up to 1.5 m high, on which the wire is pulled. Fix the bean shoots to the guiding twine or rope. Sometimes a stake is simply driven in near the bush, along which curly bean shoots climb.
• Top dressing: at the stage of formation of the first leaf - with superphosphate, during the budding period - with potassium salt, during the ripening period of beans - with ash. Beans do not need nitrogen fertilizers: they know how to extract this element themselves.
• Reproduction: seed.
• Pests: bean weevil, garden caterpillars and cabbage scoop.
• Diseases: anthracnose, bacteriosis, viral mosaic.

Read more about growing beans below.

Vegetable beans - description

Vegetable beans - curly or erect herbaceous perennial or annual with feathery leaves, each of which has a stipule. Flowers collected in a brush develop in the axils. The fruits are bivalve beans containing large beans, separated from each other by incomplete spongy septa. Each bean weighs approximately 1 g. Doctors call beans meat healthy peopleas it is not only nutritious and rich in protein, but also healthy.

Beans are a short-day plant, that is, in order to ripen and give a high yield, they need no more than 12 hours of light daily. In addition, the advantage of beans is their self-pollination: you can grow in one area different varieties culture and not be afraid that they will be pollinated among themselves. We will tell you everything about growing beans from seeds: how to fertilize beans, when to dig up beans, how to store beans, and we will provide a lot of other information with which you can easily grow the harvest of this valuable vegetable crop.

Planting beans in open ground

When to plant beans in the ground.

Begin sowing beans in May, when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 ºC. It is advisable to wait until they pass spring frosts... A sign that will tell you that it's time to plant beans is a chestnut blossom. Curly beans are planted a week later than erect beans. Bush beans can be grown as a second crop after harvesting vegetables that are ripe by early July. Beans can be sown in several steps: every 10 days from mid-May to early July. Many grow beans and peas around apple trees, which protect the legumes from the cold wind. Before planting beans, it is necessary to carry out preparatory processing of the soil and seed. On the eve of planting, the seeds are sorted out, soaked in water for swelling overnight, and in the morning, just before planting, they are dipped in solution for 5 minutes boric acid (1 g per 5 l of water) - this measure will protect the seeds from insect pests and many diseases.

Soil for beans.

Beans grow poorly on clayey soils, through which water seeps slowly, and too moist soil of beans is harmful. Dislikes beans and soils overloaded with nitrogen, since she herself is able to extract it from the air. It is best to choose sunny, wind-protected areas for beans with light, fertile, permeable soil, deep groundwater and a hydrogen index of 6-7 units. If your garden has areas of depleted soil that has not been fertilized for a long time, plant beans there, as they, like many legumes, are an excellent green manure and a precursor to all vegetable crops.

Soil for beans is prepared in the fall: the site is dug to the depth of a shovel bayonet, adding 4 kg of humus or compost for each m², 2 tablespoons of dolomite flour, one spoonful of ammonium nitrate and double superphosphate, half a tablespoon of potassium chloride or potassium soda ... Or: half a bucket of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of wood ash per 1 m².

Then you can plant the beans.

Beans grow well after crops such as cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, peppers and cucumber. It is undesirable to plant beans in areas where legumes grew (peas, lentils, soybeans, peanuts, beans and beans themselves) - after such predecessors, beans are planted on the site no earlier than three to four years. Good neighbors for beans are carrots, beets, onions, as well as tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage.

How to plant beans in open ground.

Bush beans are sown to a depth of 5-6 cm with an interval of 20-25 cm between bushes and row spacing up to 40 cm wide. Curly varieties are sown less often: after 25-30 cm between specimens and aisles about half a meter wide. Put 5-6 beans in the hole. When shoots appear, leave only three strong seedlings in the bush, and transplant the rest. After planting, the garden bed is watered and compacted. back side rake. If you are worried that night frosts may return, cover crops with foil.

Bean care

How to grow beans.

The emerging seedlings are huddled to give them stability. IN further care for beans includes regular watering, weeding, hilling bushes, loosening the soil, feeding, tying shoots to supports, as well as pinching the ends of the stems to enhance their branching and accelerate the ripening of beans.

Watering the beans.

Before budding begins, the beans are watered as needed - once a week or less. It will take a lot of water, but the exact amount is difficult to name: it all depends on the weather and soil. The soil should be moderately moist. When the seedlings develop 4-5 leaves, watering is stopped altogether. From the beginning of flowering, the moistening of the beans is resumed, and then the amount of water poured under the bush and the frequency of watering are gradually doubled. The best water for beans - rainwater, but if it is not, pour tap water into a large container and let it settle for at least a day before watering the beans. After watering, it is most convenient to weed the weed and loosen the aisles. The first shallow loosening is carried out when the seedlings reach a height of 7 cm, after two weeks the soil is shallowly loosened for the second time, at the same time hilling the bean bushes. The third time they loosen the soil and huddle the bushes before closing the rows of beans.

Top dressing of beans.

After the formation of the first true leaf at the seedlings, they are fed with superphosphate in an amount of 30-40 g per m², and during the budding period, potassium salt is added at the rate of 10-15 g per the same unit of area. During the ripening period, the beans can be added to the soil wood ash... It is better not to feed the growing beans with nitrogen fertilizers: firstly, they are able to get nitrogen for themselves, and secondly, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers can provoke a violent growth of greenery, and the yield of beans will be more than modest.

Bean garter.

When landing for curly beans install supports up to one and a half meters high, on which a wire or rope is horizontally pulled. These stretch marks will guide the curly bean shoots. You can grow beans in nests: do not thin out the sprouted seedlings, leave them to grow in a dense bush, and drive in a wooden stake next to which the stems of the beans will curl. Or stick 3-4 guides up to 2 m high around the bush and tie their tops so that the shape of the support resembles an Indian wigwam. Do not use metal or plastic supports as stakes, as the beans will not climb over them.

Pests and diseases of beans

Most often, the plant is damaged by the bean weevil, cabbage and garden scoops. Scoops lay eggs on the ground parts of the beans, and the larvae hatched from them begin to devour the greens, flowers and fruits of the plant. Bean weevil is a bug that enters the soil along with the seeds and destroys the beans from the inside.

What is the problem with beans? With poor care and violation of agrotechnical conditions, beans are affected by anthracnose, bacteriosis and viral mosaic. Bacteriosis is dangerous in that its pathogens not only harm the plants and even lead to their death, but can also remain viable for many years and develop in plant residues of culture and in the soil. Anthracnose appears as brown depressed spots of an irregular or rounded shape on seedlings, the veins on the leaves become brown, the plates turn yellow, holes form on them, and they die off. Red, reddish or brown spots appear on the fruits, turning into ulcers with the course of the disease. The mosaic is characterized by the appearance of necrotic spots on the bean leaves and discoloration of the veins.

Bean processing.

When asked how to process beans from a viral mosaic, we sadly answer: nothing. Viral disease treatment is not amenable to treatment, but it can be avoided if organized proper care for beans, observe the crop rotation and take seriously the preparation of the seed. As for anthracnose and bacteriosis, proper care plays an equally important role in the fight against these diseases, and you can get rid of diseases by removing and obligatory burning of diseased plants or their affected parts and processing the beans and the site with one percent Bordeaux liquid. But before treating the beans with a fungicide, think, maybe it is better to make it a rule to carry out prophylactic spraying of beans and an area from fungal diseases? The processing of beans and the soil around it with Fitosporin is carried out in the spring, when the seedlings reach a height of 12-15 cm, and after harvesting. This measure, subject to your agricultural practices and crop rotation, can make your beans invulnerable.

As for the fight against insects, the appearance of scoops can be prevented by deep digging of the soil on the site in the fall, but if they nevertheless appeared in the spring, and there are a lot of them, you will have to process the beans with a one percent solution of Bitoxibacillin or a half percent solution of Gomelin, which are bacterial drugs. And you can prevent the appearance of a bean weevil on the site by carefully sorting out the seeds before sowing, soaking them for swelling and exposing them pre-sowing treatment boric acid.

Harvesting and storing beans

If you want to eat young beans, you can start harvesting them two weeks after the flowers appear, when the fruits reach their maximum size and the highest taste. Cut the pods with scissors every two days in the morning, while they are still saturated with the moisture and coolness of the night. Eat young beans in salads, vegetable stew, in soups, stewed as a side dish for meat and fish. Unfortunately, young beans in fresh not stored for long. If you want to eat them in the winter, you will need to freeze or canned the beans.

If you grow beans for grain, then you can harvest once, when the beans are ripe and the pods are dry. The stems are cut off at the very ground, tied in bunches and hung upside down in a dry, ventilated place - in the attic or in a dry shed. Two weeks later, when the seeds are ripe and dry, they are husked from the pods and sent to storage in glass containers with a metal twist lid, which are kept in a cool room. Bean roots remain in the ground, decompose and enrich the soil with nitrogen.

The first few pods from the bottom of the bushes are left on the seeds, dried, beans are husked from them, which are stored in the lower drawer of the refrigerator at a temperature of 5-6 ºC. Seed germination lasts up to ten years.

Types and varieties of beans

Bean varieties for open field are classified according to different characteristics. For example, according to the ripening period, the beans are divided into early ripening, ripening within 65 days, medium early, the ripening period of which is from 65 to 75 days, medium with a ripening period of 75-85 days, mid-ripening, which takes from 85 to 100 days to reach ripeness, and late, ripening for 100 days or more.

According to the shape of the ground part, the beans are divided into bush or curly beans.

According to their taste and purpose, beans are divided into three groups: shelling or grain, sugar or asparagus and semi-sugar.

Shelling, or grain beans

it is grown for grains because it has a parchment layer inside the pod that does not allow it to be used for food with the shell, like asparagus varieties. IN middle lane it makes no sense to cultivate such beans, since they do not ripen, and in an unripe form, shell beans are inedible. In warmer regions, beans are grown quite successfully. The best varieties shell beans:

• – Gribovskaya 92 - bushy, moderately branched variety of average ripening period (reaches biological ripeness in 90 days), with green xiphoid pods up to 12 cm long;
• – Chocolate girl - medium late bush beans up to 60 cm high with straight, medium length brown pods, resistant to shattering;
• – The mistress's dream - mid-season bush variety with wide, long pods yellow colorcontaining white seeds with a high protein content;
• – Ballad - short bushes of medium ripening with green pods and beige grains in a purple speck. The variety is drought tolerant and high in protein;
• – Golden - bushes up to 40 cm high with curved golden color pods and protein-rich yellow seeds of high taste;
• – Ruby - mid-season bush beans with narrow pods, which contain cherry-colored seeds with high palatability.

In addition to those described, shell beans of the varieties Oran, Varvara, Sirenevaya, Nerussa, Schedraya, Yin-yang, Pervomayskaya, Geliada, Svetlaya, Belozernaya, Ufimskaya and Palevo-variegated are popular.

Sugar or asparagus or vegetable beans

does not have a parchment layer inside the pod, like a variety of grain beans, so it can be eaten even with a pod. They are the tastiest beans of all varieties and are often included in diet menus, since it has the property of removing excess moisture from the body. The color of the sugar bean pods can be green, brown, white or different shades yellow color. The most popular varieties of this group:

• – Purple queen - unpretentious, resistant to viruses and very productive bush variety of medium maturity with dark purple pods up to 15 cm long;
• – Crane - compact, high-yielding and unpretentious bush up to 50 cm high with green, delicate, fiberless pods;
• – Melody - early ripening climbing variety, requiring a garter, with almost flat green fruits up to 13 cm long. 8-9 pods are formed on the stem;
• – Oil king - bush early ripening fruitful variety with yellow pods of delicious taste;
• – Hell Rem - a curly variety with a pleasant mushroom flavor and pinkish grains. This fruit soup has the aroma and taste of real mushrooms.

Also in demand are the asparagus varieties Pobeditel, Panther, Oleniy Korol, Caramel, Fatima and Saksa 615.

Semi-sugar beans

differs in that the parchment layer inside its fruits is not as dense as in the pods of the peeling varieties, or it is formed late. At an early stage of development, the pods are edible, but later they develop unpleasant tough fibers. The most famous varieties of this group:

• – Second - early maturing bush variety with green pods up to 10 cm long with 5-6 yellow-brown seeds inside. In the phase of technical ripeness, there are no dense partitions in the pod, but when biological ripeness occurs, dense fibers are formed in the fruits;
• – Welt - a high-yielding bush variety resistant to ascochitosis and anthracnose with green pods about 13 cm long, which contain 5-6 seeds of pinkish-lilac color;
• – Indiana - early maturing bush variety with white seeds in red patterns. In the southern regions, these beans bear fruit twice a season.

Of the varieties of semi-sugar beans, in addition to those described, such as Antoshka, Fantasy and Nastena are known.

Beans play an important role for humanity, planting and care in the open field unpretentious plant - an excellent opportunity to make stocks of high-calorie foods that are not inferior in value to meat delicacies. Growing this crop is a rewarding activity, getting tasty beans, you simultaneously saturate the garden with nitrogen compounds.

Almost all legumes love light and fertile soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. On lands with a high percentage of clay and shallow groundwater, these plants grow poorly. Poor soils are fertilized with nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus preparations, but in this case it is advisable to exercise caution. An excess of nitrogen leads to an increase in green mass to the detriment of the harvest. Beginners ask questions whether it is necessary to soak beans before planting, which beans are not suitable for sowing, so we list the main stages of the preparatory work.

Preparing beans for planting:

1. For sowing, beans damaged by grinders, non-standard for of this variety seeds, seemingly diseased material.
2. By soaking beans before planting and leaving in the open field, we greatly speed up the time of sprouting. The beans are placed in melt water for one night (up to 15 hours).
3. On the eve of sowing, beans can be treated with micronutrient fertilizers and boric acid. We take 2 g of ammonium molybdate and 2 g of boric acid, dissolve them in a bucket of water and heat the liquid to 40 ° C. We immerse the seeds in the resulting preparation for 5 minutes on the eve of planting. What is good about beans prepared in this composition - planting and caring for processed beans in the open field helps against pests and increases the survival rate of sprouts.

Planting beans in open ground

The varieties of this culture are divided into climbing and bush, depending on this, planting beans in the spring in open ground and caring for the plant may differ slightly. Shrub forms grow up to 0.4-0.6 m in height. They are suitable for mechanized cultivation and are unpretentious. Curly varieties resemble grapes in their strength of growth, their whips grow more than 2 m and require a garter on a trellis. Vigna beans have enormous fruits; pods up to 50 cm long grow on its 5-meter bushes.

In the case of how to plant beans in open ground with seeds, you need to take into account the low frost resistance of this plant. Sprouts appear on the fifth day and small frosts can ruin the fruits of painstaking work. Optimum temperature for growth - from 20 ° C to 25 ° C. What has a bad effect on beans - planting and care in the open field in cold weather conditions, with the threat of a cold snap, it is advisable to cover delicate seedlings with agrofibre. Immediately after planting the seeds in the garden bed, the soil is compacted with heavy garden rollers to retain moisture and improve germination.

This method is used in northern regions and for growing late varieties, correct fit beans seedling method helps to get early harvests culture. Sowing is carried out swollen after soaking the beans in pots 30 days before the planned moment of planting plants in the open field. At the time of germination, the seedlings are kept in greenhouses at 23-25 \u200b\u200b° C, before planting on the beds, the temperature is reduced to 16 ° C. We transfer the rooted sprouts to open ground after the onset of stable heat, placing them in the soil 3 cm lower than they were in the pots.

When listing the basic rules for planting beans, one cannot overlook such an important factor as the depth of the beans embedded in the soil. It may depend on the structure and moisture of the soil in the garden, weather conditions... The best option is to plant beans at a depth of 4-5 cm.If there is a strong heat in the spring and the soil is dry, then the distance of the seeds to the soil surface is increased to about 7 cm.

There are several ways to plant beans outdoors. Tall bushes are often located near the fence, near the walls, near trees and high garden crops... Up to 5-7 beans are laid in the nests; in the absence of natural supports for tying plants, a trellis is built or stakes are hammered. In large beds, low-growing beans are grown in rows. When planting in open ground, up to 30 cm of space is left between the bushes, we maintain a distance of up to 40 cm between the rows.

Young seedlings of beans die in frosts of minus 1 ° C, and bushes with immature pods can tolerate early autumn frosts up to 4 ° C. In the question of when to plant beans in open ground, one must not rush. The thermophilic plant is sown by gardeners after the threat of the spring cold has passed. This time is not the same for different regions, so we focus on the weather forecast and local conditions. In Ukraine and in the southern regions of Russia, sowing works are carried out from the end of April to the first half of May.

Bean care

There is no great difficulty in caring for beans, all the features of cultivation are reduced to the timely removal of weeds, loosening the soil, watering and feeding the plants. If desired, you can stimulate the branching of the bushes by pinching the ends of the stem. Hilling makes the bean bushes firm and helps to retain moisture. The first loosening of the soil is carried out when the sprouts reach a height of 1 cm, in total we perform up to 6 loosening per season until the rows are completely closed.

Top dressing of beans in the open field

In the serious question of how to grow beans in the open field, you need to be careful about feeding. Excess nitrogen in grooming results in strong foliage growth and reduced pod formation. In the fall, they are scattered in the beds together with potassium-phosphorus preparations. In spring, fertilizer should not be applied later than 14 days before planting. On square meter the beds give up to 8 kg of compost, 20 g of superphosphate and 25 g potash fertilizers... When buds appear, add up to 40 g of superphosphate and up to 15 g of potassium salt. During the ripening of the pods, you can limit yourself to fertilizing with wood ash.

Growing beans outdoors - watering

For the yield of beans, growing conditions play an important role, waterlogging leads to overgrowth of leaves, and in drought, the ovary is shed. In the heat, before the first buds appear, the beds are watered in moderate doses once a week. The amount of liquid depends on the weather and the structure of the soil, up to 20 l / m2 per week is enough. About 7 days before flowering, watering is stopped, with the exception of prolonged sultry weather. After the appearance of the first pods, we water the planting of beans in the open field with less frequency, preventing the beds from completely drying out in the care.

This crop has a number of pests and diseases that can significantly reduce the yield of beans. Diseases of beans and timely control of them is an important task for every vegetable grower. With the yellowing of the leaf plates, the appearance of incomprehensible spots, the finding of damaged beans, we can talk about the infection of the site with fungi or harmful insects. There are a few major threats to focus on when growing outdoors:

1. Anthracnose. The disease causes the formation of round, depressed spots, thin brown veins, yellowing and death of leaves. The pods change shape, become covered with a dirty coating, ulcers.
2. Bean viral mosaic. It transfers an aphid infection, the leaves change color during the disease, become variegated, wrinkle. Mosaic-sick beans grow weakly when grown in the open field, lagging behind their neighbors, the yield at the bushes is falling.
3. White rot of beans. With the disease, there is a softening of the stems and leaves, a change in their color. Affected plants rot and die.
4. beans. In outdoor care, this dangerous infection is often found, which leads to the death of a large percentage of plantings. Plaque forms first white, then the green mass turns yellow and dries.

Preventive measures and protection against bean diseases:

• Do not make the planting thick, provide airing to the bushes in the care.
• Diseased plants are removed.
• Weeds help diseases spread, remove them from the garden in a timely manner.
• Use healthy bean seeds for planting.
• Dressing the beans before sowing reduces the risk of infection.
• Observe the crop rotation outdoors in the care.
• Anthracnose and white rot are defeated by Bordeaux liquid and other copper-containing preparations.
• Early planting of beans helps in the fight against mosaic, preventive measures against the spread of aphids.
• Powdery mildew in care is exterminated with sulfur preparations.

The most dangerous pests beans are weevil, sprout fly, and slugs. When planting, inspect the grain, excluding sowing contaminated material. In the care against insects, the treatment of beds with "Decis", "Metaphos" and others is used. When slugs are found, the ground is sprinkled with ash or superphosphate, mulch with leaves and nettle shoots scares away the pest. You can install bait in the form of dug plastic bottles filled with beer, regularly emptying them from drowned insects.

Two types of beans are grown in the gardens: grain and vegetable. Both species are valuable high-protein crops. Beans, when properly cared for, regardless of the weather, can produce excellent yields.

Beans are heat-loving plants. Seeds begin to germinate at temperatures not lower than + 8 ° C.

The higher the temperature, the faster the seedlings will appear. At a temperature of + 14 ° C, beans peep out on the surface for 12-13 days, and at + 23 ... + 24 - already on the sixth day. It makes no sense to maintain a high temperature, since seedlings will not appear earlier than on the sixth day.

At temperatures below 8 ° C, seeds germinate slowly. If the soil is moist, the beans will rot faster than they germinate.

Bean shoots are tender and thermophilic. They die at a temperature of + 1 ° C. Once strengthened, the plants will be able to withstand rapid frosts down to -2 ° C.

Undesirable and too high temperature. At + 40 ° C, beans fall off flowers and buds.

The preferred temperature for plant growth and development is 20-25 ° C.

Beans love moisture. To obtain seedlings, seeds are sown in moist soil. Moisture-critical phases are swelling and germination of seeds, flowering and formation of beans.

Plants can tolerate a short drought before budding, but during flowering and bean formation, there must be enough water in the soil and atmosphere, otherwise flowers and ovaries will fall off, and yields will drop dramatically. At the same time, beans do not tolerate excess moisture, especially in cold weather. In such conditions, it is quickly affected by anthracnose and bacteriosis.

Plants tolerate light shading well, so they are often sown between rows and in joint crops with corn, sunflower and potatoes.

There are two types of beans: curly and bush. In vegetable gardens, bush varieties with a main stem height of no higher than 60 cm are often planted.

Climbing plants can be used for vertical gardening... They are suitable for a small area. If there is enough space, it is better to plant bush beans, as they are easier to care for - no support is needed.

In small areas, the row spacing can be reduced to 30 cm. In such cases, the first beans will form higher.

If you sow the seeds in a checkerboard pattern, the plants will be better illuminated. When they grow, they form a thick wall, which can be used to protect delicate crops from the north wind: eggplant, pepper.

Since the crop is brought to the surface of the cotyledons, the seeds are planted deeper - to a depth of 5 cm, on sandy soils 7 cm.After sowing, the surface of the grooves is better rolled or slightly trampled in order to level the soil in the garden bed. In this case, seedlings will appear at the same time.

Caring for beans comes down to watering, weeding and combating pathologies. Herbicides can be used against weeds. The herbicide Treflan helps against cereal weeds - wheatgrass and rump.

Beans are sensitive to herbicides, so any drug must be diluted according to the instructions, avoiding an overdose.

Modern bush varieties ripen together, yielding crops within 10-14 days. Grain beans ripen within 55 days after germination, asparagus - earlier. In the southern regions, the crop manages to yield twice a year.

Asparagus varieties are harvested in the ten-day ovary phase. The seeds inside the beans at this time are not larger than wheat grains, and the length of the pods reaches 7-14 cm. At this stage of maturity, the beans have a tasty brittle and juicy consistency.

In many varieties of grain beans, the pods crack after the seeds ripen and the grains spill out. Pinch of curly beans at the end of August side shoots and the top of the main stem and remove all untied flowers so that all the fruits have time to ripen.

In autumn, plants can be pulled out by the roots and hung upside down in the shade to ripen and dry the seeds. The collected seeds are dried indoors in one layer, and then poured into cotton bags, where they can be stored for 6 years, keeping them in the freezer for 3-4 days to protect them from bean weevils.

What are beans afraid of?

Common pests of beans:

• weevils;
• weevils;
• larvae of clickers.

Beans threaten disease:

• ordinary and yellow mosaic;
• fungal and bacterial pathologies - anthracnose, white rot, rust, fusarium and bacteriosis.

To prevent the appearance of pests and diseases, it is enough to follow the correct agricultural techniques:

• Alternate crops in a crop rotation. Beans should not be sown after other legumes, including perennial forage grasses and green manure - clover, alfalfa, sweet clover and sainfoin.
• Use for sowing seeds of zoned varieties that do not show signs of mold or rot.
• Immediately remove from the garden atypical plants with spots and specks on the leaves - they can be infected with viruses.
• Form ranks towards the prevailing winds.
• Do not plant beans in lowlands where dew persists for a long time and there is a threat of disease outbreaks.

Planting and caring for beans outdoors is easy. This culture can be successfully grown by inexperienced gardeners, getting a good return on the efforts made.

Beans are an excellent vegetable crop that is well respected among gardeners for their beneficial qualities, ease of planting and growing. In addition, with proper care, beans provide wonderful harvest... Today we will talk about how to properly grow asparagus beans in the open field (photos are attached).

Description of popular varieties and existing varieties

Asparagus, or as it is sometimes called green beans, is a climbing perennial / annual plant with feathery leaves. Flower development takes place in the axils. The fruits are bivalve beans, with large beans inside, between which there is a spongy-looking septum. Beans are high in protein and micronutrients.

Beans are a plant that does not require a lot of light. Enough 12 hours a day to get a rich harvest as a result. The big plus of the culture is that it is capable of self-pollination, which means that you can completely calmly cultivate several varieties on the site at once. And by the way about the varieties. Asparagus beans can be classified in several ways:

1. By ripening terms: early ripening (2 months), mid-early (2.5 months), medium (2.5-3 months), mid-ripening (up to one hundred days) and late (ripening period exceeds 100 days).
2. By the shape of a land plant: climbing, bush.
3. According to taste characteristics and scope of use: shelling, sugar and semi-sugar.

Shelling (grain) beans

Shelling (grain) beans cultivated exclusively for the consumption of grains, since the outer shell is hard enough that it cannot be used for food. Such beans are best grown only in warm climates, since in the middle lane they simply will not ripen, and in this form they will be simply inedible. To the most popular varieties beans include:

• Ballad. This mid-season variety is not afraid of drought and contains a large amount of protein. It has green pods and light yellow grains with purple splashes.
• Ruby. This variety is also mid-season. It has narrow pods containing burgundy beans. Possesses excellent taste characteristics.
• Chocolate girl. These are medium late beans, the bush reaches a meter in height. The pods are long, yellow.

Asparagus (sugar) beans it is usually used for food almost entirely, that is, together with the pods, since they do not contain a special permanent layer, as in the shelling. This variety is the tastiest. She also possesses interesting property: removing excess fluid from the body. The most popular types of green beans include:

• Oil King. An early ripening variety that gives a rich harvest. Has pods with a delicate flavor.
• Hell Rem. A variety with vines and light pink beans with a delicate mushroom flavor.
• Crane. It has a fairly compact size bushes on which fiberless pods ripen with a delicate taste.

Asparagus (sugar) beans

Planting plants in open ground

Since asparagus beans are a rather thermophilic plant, the site should be sown with seeds in late spring (not earlier than May), when the weather becomes stable warm and the air warms up to at least 10 degrees with a plus.

Beans "love" fertile soil that is easily permeable to water with deep groundwater. It is undesirable to use areas with clay, too wet or nitrogen-saturated soil for growing asparagus (since asparagus itself is capable of producing it).

The site for planting beans must be prepared in the fall: dig it up with the addition of 4 kg of humus, a couple of tablespoons of dolomite flour, a spoonful of saltpeter and superphosphate and (preferably) potassium chloride for each square meter of the site.

In the spring, a couple of days before sowing the seeds, the ground must be re-dug up and walked over it with a rake in order to slightly "fluff" it. If the soil is viscous, then you can add sand: about 5 kg for each meter of the sown area. Be sure to disinfect the soil with mild potassium permanganate.

Growing beans outdoors

Before planting the seeds of asparagus beans, be sure to sort out and discard beans with any defects. Fill them in enough hot water and leave for fifteen minutes. They will have time to absorb moisture and swell slightly - then the seedlings will appear much faster. After soaking, the seeds are necessarily disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate to protect young seedlings from pests.

Bean seeds are planted to a depth of no more than 6 cm in holes, the distance between which is about 20 cm (this applies to bush varieties). The distance between the rows should be no more than half a meter. The distance between the seeds of the climbing varieties should be somewhat wider - about 30 cm. 5-6 beans are placed in each hole. After planting the seeds, the sown area must be moistened and the soil slightly compacted.

Advice. When the first shoots appear, only the "strongest" seedlings (2-3 pieces) should be left in the holes, the rest should be removed.

Caring for asparagus beans

Caring for asparagus beans includes a number of standard measures that every gardener is familiar with: watering, fertilizing, hilling, feeding. Let's consider each process in more detail.

Plant propagation in the open field

In order for the propagation of asparagus beans in the open field to occur quickly and efficiently, the seedlings must be constantly monitored. Until the first buds appear, bean seedlings need to be watered regularly: abundantly, but infrequently (no more than 1 time per week). The soil must not be dry.

When the plants have the first few leaves, watering should be completely stopped. When the beans begin to bloom, watering is resumed again and its frequency doubles.

Advice. For watering beans, it is better to use either rainwater or settled water.

It is better to start loosening the soil after the sprouts reach a height of 6-7 cm. The second loosening (simultaneously with hilling) is carried out a couple of weeks after the first. The soil is loosened one last time before the bean bushes begin to close.

In order for the development of beans to occur quickly and efficiently, it needs a little help in this. So, for the curly beans, special vertical supports (1.5 m) are made. Either a rope or wire is placed on top of them. Bean shoots are sent along it.

Fertilizing and feeding

When the first leaves appear in the bean seedlings, you can start feeding in the form of superphosphate in the amount of 30-40 g per square meter. And when the first buds appear, add potassium salt to the soil - about 10 g per the same unit of area. During the period of fruit ripening, the soil should be fed with fertilizer in the form of a solution of wood ash.

Advice. You should not add nitrogen to the soil, since the beans themselves produce it. If the nitrogen content in the soil is excessive, then the harvest will turn out to be rather modest, but there will be plenty of greenery.

We fight diseases and pests

Most often, beans suffer from such diseases: downy mildew, bacteriosis and anthracnose. It is quite simple to actively prevent the spread of these diseases: you just need to carry out proper care, destroy infected plants, add limestone to the acidic soil, do not forget to disinfect the seeds before sowing. Copper preparations should be used to protect beans from fungal and viral damage.

Bean anthracnose

In addition to all of the above, the plant can be eaten by slugs, the appearance of which can be prevented by removing weeds in a timely manner and regularly moistening the soil. If they do appear, you just need to delete them.

Advice. The yield of beans directly depends on the quality of their pollination. Pollinating insects can help in this. You can lure them with the help of sugar syrup, which should sometimes be sprayed with a flowering plant.

Combining asparagus beans with other plants

The plant reproduces well in the ground with such predecessors as: representatives of the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant), cabbage. But with predecessors from the legume family, the combination is unlikely (including beans).

Vegetable crops such as onions, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, etc. will become good "neighbors" for beans.

Harvesting asparagus beans can be started as early as 14 days after the plant has its first flowers (if you want to enjoy the delicate taste of the young pods). Otherwise, you can harvest when the pods are dry and the fruits are fully ripe.

So our article has come to an end. We examined in detail the process of growing asparagus beans and caring for them in the open field. We wish you a good harvest!

How to plant asparagus beans: video

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Growing asparagus beans: photo

Due to its unpretentiousness and good yield, not only grain, but also green beans are popular among domestic summer residents. Planting and caring for a crop does not require much experience and cost, therefore, it is suitable for all gardeners. A big varietal variety allows for successful cultivation green beans in any region. The article discusses the advice of gardeners - planting green beans and care, how to prepare seeds and soil for planting in open ground, as well as pest control and other useful tips.

In this article, you will learn:

Growing asparagus and green beans

Many gardeners who cultivate beans on their own in their summer cottage recognize the most delicious variety of plants as green beans - asparagus is distinguished by longer pods, but the principle of planting and caring for them is about the same. Growing and caring for beans is not too difficult, and the juicy and satisfying product is ready to serve in the summer. Fresh green pods are also available to those who do not have personal land - you can successfully grow asparagus beans at home - on a glassed-in balcony or windowsill.

Planting and caring for green beans

Asparagus and green beans are one species, more precisely, asparagus is one of the varieties of green beans. It is distinguished by the large length of the pods and the absence of clear forming seeds inside them. In addition, the flaps themselves are softer, since they do not grow a hard layer of parchment, which gives them good culinary qualities.

Green beans are a low-calorie food packed with many vitamins, amino acids, organic acids, flavonoids and minerals. It is widely used in cooking as a vegetable ingredient in salads, side dishes, first and second courses. The asparagus variety got its name from its characteristic taste, reminiscent of asparagus.

Green Bean Varieties

• The purple queen. An interesting bush variety that combines fruit and decorative functions. Produces dark purple pods up to 15 cm long. The variety is not afraid of many diseases and is suitable for planting in different regions.
• Crane. A compact plant reaching half a meter in height. Non-capricious variety with enviable productivity. The delicate taste of the fiberless pods is excellently preserved in canning and freezing.
• Sachs 615 (without fiber). A bushy early ripe hybrid with a height of up to 45 cm and green pods up to 12 cm. It is very popular due to its high-vitamin composition.
• The oil king. A bush variety with a growing season of 55 days. By the end of summer it produces yellow pods with a distinctive flavor.
• A common, fast-ripening curly variety, the pods of which grow up to 13 cm in length. Up to 10 pods are harvested from one plant per season.
• Winner. Curly flat-pod variety that decorates the garden with fiery red flowers during flowering. Brings flattened fruit pods up to 30 cm long.
• Caramel. Early ripening fiberless beans, called by many summer residents the best among the species. Produces short pods with large seeds inside. The plant is popular for its high immunity to common viruses.
• Fatima. A variety of curly beans with a medium ripening period. Growth can be 3 meters, but the foliage is always average. The pods are straight in shape - they can be 21 cm each. good taste and a delicate, fibrous structure.
• Panther. Another bushy variety with yellow, fibrous fruits. Differs in high resistance to fungal diseases and a special spicy taste.
• Hell Rem. Curly variety with light pods and rare lilac-pink grains. Differs in characteristic mushroom aroma and high resistance to pests and diseases.
• Neringa. A bush bean variety that ripens in 7-9 weeks. Gives green long (14-16 cm) pods with juicy leaves without a parchment layer. The plant bears excellent fruit in different conditions, is versatile in processing.
• Deer king. A bushy variety of green beans with extremely tasty fruits. The bright yellow ripe pods have dense white grains inside. In warm regions, it is possible to harvest twice a season.
• Bona. A plant with a compact bush up to 40 cm in height. It produces rounded pods 13-16 cm long without a parchment layer with 5-6 white seeds. It is appreciated by gardeners for its immunity to diseases, good productivity and versatility of use. Ripens in 50-75 days after sowing.
• Blue Lake. A tall variety that needs solid support. The green pods grow up to 16 cm in length and reach maturity 50-56 days after the sowing date of the beans. Small white seeds form inside. It is a fruitful hybrid with decent resistance to infection and disease.
• Sweet courage. A shrub plant with fast maturation. Differs in cylindrical yellow pods, growing up to 16 cm in length.
• Gina. A bushy early ripe variety with slightly curved pods up to 17 cm long. It has excellent qualities that are preserved during canning. Highly prized for its productivity and disease resistance.
• Paloma. Dutch beans for early sowing. Bears abundantly in 11-12 cm dark green pods. Versatile in culinary use.
• Bergold. A high-yielding bush variety with soft, parchment-free pods. Slightly curved fruits grow up to 14 cm in length and keep well in ice cream or canned.
• Nagano. Asparagus beans from a Dutch manufacturer. Suitable for sowing from early to medium terms. High resistance, good yield with 13 cm pods. Good in freezing and preservation.
• Mascott. West undersized variety with ripening in 50-55 days after breaking through the seedlings. For dense, fiberless pods with a pleasant crunch, Mascott is very fond of the French. Can be grown at home on a windowsill.
• Pensioned Under Black Wax. Low-rise Italian beans with bushes up to 40 cm in height. Differs in good yield, excellent commercial qualities of fruits, high immunity. The pods grow up to 15 cm and are well preserved in conservation and freezing.
• Kentucky Blue Pole. Favorite by many American farmers, beans have a 65-day growing season. A climbing plant with a total length of up to 2.5 meters. It is very similar in growth and fruit characteristics to the Blue Lake variety.
• Gold Mine. Bush beans, called by some summer residents super-sweet. Strong, upright bushes yield up to 800 grams of juicy pods.
• Serengeti asparagus beans. Landing this early ripening variety possible in all climatic zones. This variety is distinguished by resistance to many diseases, as well as pleasant taste characteristics and high yields.

On a note!

For middle and northern latitudes, you should choose among early maturing or mid-ripening hybrids that ripen in 50-80 days. Late-ripening varieties of beans are suitable for cultivation in the south, as they reach ripeness no less than 100 days after sowing.

String Green Beans: Planting and Caring for the Right Place

Green beans planting and care

The first thing to think about before planting beans is the ideal garden plot. To allocate a place for this plant at the last moment, where it works out, is incorrect, since it is rather capricious in relation to the illumination and the nature of the soil:

• In the initial stages of development, beans require intense, but not unnecessarily long exposure to sunlight. They should get on plants no longer than 12 hours a day.
• Curly bean varieties should be planted next to a support for lifting branches, and if there is none, make a trellis yourself. Planting of three plants with a support in the form of a high tripod is practiced.
• Beans grow well and bear fruit when planted after potatoes, onions, cucumbers, carrots, cabbage, and other root vegetables.
• Poor precursors for green beans are sunflowers, legumes and legumes, and perennial grasses like clover.
• Bush varieties of green beans grow well in the aisles of potatoes and cabbage, they do not need supports for weaving.

When planting green beans in open ground

In most cases, sowing of green beans is carried out in the middle of May - early June. The main indicator is the degree of heating of the earth at the depth to which they are embedded (5-6 cm). The temperature here must be at least + 10˚C. Basically, in the Russian regions, frosts should be over by this time. If, according to the weather forecast, a repeated decrease in temperature is promised, the crops will need to be covered with polyethylene or non-woven garden cloth.

Planting green beans up to a depth of 60 mm on very loose soils. The harder the soil, the closer to the surface the seeds should be placed so that the soil structure does not interfere with germination. Landing scheme:

• for bush varieties: 15-20 cm between holes and 35-40 cm between rows, the optimal number of rows for cross self-pollination is 4;
• for climbing varieties: 20-30 cm between holes with the obligatory presence of a strong non-plastic support (branches can grow very heavy).

After sowing, you need to water the garden and slightly press down the soil with a rake. When punching seedlings, they must be hilled in a timely manner to impart greater stability and accelerate development.

How to prepare soil and green bean seeds

It is good if the site chosen for planting will consist of nutritious soil and, more importantly, well-drained soil. The lush soil will allow the beans to self-feed on nitrogen from the root nodules. To risk landing in clay soils or areas with a close passage of groundwater is not worth it - the seeds may simply not sprout.

To increase the yield, the soil must be enriched with humus or heated compost before deep digging. Ammonium nitrate with the addition of calcium chloride and superphosphate is also a useful additive. Nitrogen is not needed - if you constantly make the soil loose, it will be extracted in excess by the plants themselves.

Presowing processing of beans:

1. Sort out the grains, discarding the damaged ones.
2. Soak in melt water room temperature no longer than 12 hours.
3. Before sowing for 3-5 minutes, lower the beans in a solution of 2 g of boric acid and 10 liters of water.

Asparagus beans: planting and caring for seedlings

Asparagus beans planting and care

To germinate seeds before sowing, you can use the following method:

1. Pour them into a linen bag (or tie them with a cloth) and immerse them in a light solution of potassium permanganate heated to 35-40˚C.
2. Rinse the grains clean running water and wrap in a damp cloth for 5-6 days. It is necessary to maintain its moisture content during this period.
3. At a temperature within + 20- + 30˚C and being in humid environment seeds germinate quickly.

It is advisable to sow seedling beans in April. Moreover, it is necessary to place crops in a greenhouse or under a film, since at first they are extremely sensitive to temperature conditions.

It is better to plant according to the 6 × 6 cm scheme - it will be convenient for the plants themselves to grow, but also for the gardener to take care of them. Seeds for seedlings should be laid at a depth of about 2 cm.

Care features:

• for germination and good development of shoots, you need to constantly water the soil, but at the same time maintain its looseness;
• after the initial weeding, you can start feeding the plantings with a mullein (1: 6 with water) or ammonium nitrate (20 g per 1 m 2);
• you should not just flood the seedlings - the soil is needed moist, but without standing water - so the seeds can ferment;
• during the summer, it is necessary to carry out such a make-up several more times, but about 40 g of superphosphate should also be added to 10 liters of the mixture;
• to protect against low temperatures in the cold season, it is necessary to cover the seedlings with straw compost or melted manure in autumn.

A significant part of the seedlings will most likely still be unsuitable for further cultivation. Therefore, in the spring, before transplanting, you need to select suitable plants... Good candidates should have a solid root system, 5-7 good shoots and a healthy appearance.

Asparagus beans planting and care in the open field

How to plant asparagus beans outdoors

For cultivation from seeds in the open field for asparagus beans, it is necessary to allocate naturally illuminated areas with light and nutritious soil. A bonus to productivity will be if potatoes, cabbage, onions or carrots were grown in this land last season. On clayey soils and soils with close location groundwater beans take root very reluctantly.

In areas with long cold winters, it is better to start growing asparagus beans in a greenhouse so as not to waste time due to insignificant heating of the soil. This culture is very sensitive to cold weather and usually dies at temperatures below + 5˚C. Because of this, the already sown beans are wrapped in foil when there is an unexpected cold snap.

If asparagus beans have already grown on a specific site, it is recommended to re-organize cultivation from seeds only after 4 years. This is not a problem, given the fact that after this plant, which enriches the soil with nitrogen, any garden crops grow well.

In the autumn months, the land for asparagus beans is enriched before deep digging with organic matter, potassium chloride and superphosphate in a volume of 7 kg / m 2, 45 g / m 2 and 25 g / m 2, respectively. Before planting from seeds in the country, a fertilizer complex with a high proportion of potassium should be applied at the rate of 25 g / m 2. After bookmark seed material experts advise to sprinkle the bed with humus on top and feed the beans with mineral mixtures up to 3 times during the season. Application scheme: in small grooves, parallel to the rows at a distance of 15-20 cm. One recharge is mandatory in the bud setting phase.

Landing

Seeds of asparagus beans are sown similarly to any other legumes. this should be started when the earth warms up at a depth of 50-60 mm to + 10˚C and the frost stops. The previously selected beans are first soaked for up to 10 hours in melt water for better germination. Many summer residents slightly tint the water with potassium permanganate and add growth accelerators there, but this is not an obligatory practice. It is also believed that it is not necessary to soak the seeds if the soil is moist enough when planting.

A few minutes before laying the beans, they are also kept for 5 minutes in an aqueous solution of boric acid (0.2 g / l), for increased immunity to diseases. Next, the seeds are placed in several pieces in holes 3-5 cm deep. In one furrow for bushy varieties of beans, 10-15 cm should be left between the grooves, and the grooves should be located at a distance of 25-30 cm relative to each other. Curly hybrids should be placed at a distance of 20-30 cm between themselves and 0.5 m between the rows.

Excessive moisture is something that asparagus bush beans do not like very much. Growing should be accompanied by moderate but regular watering once a week, doubling the volume during the flowering period. After watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil around the plants so that air access to the root nodules does not stop. It is also necessary to constantly pull out the weeds, as they deplete the soil. To increase the yield, it is recommended to apply two additional fertilizing from mineral complex fertilizers during the cultivation process.

Asparagus beans: growing from seeds at home

Asparagus beans can be grown quite successfully in indoor conditions, for example, on a glazed loggia or a well-lit windowsill. Better, of course, to choose bush varieties that do not rise above 50 centimeters in height. Curly varieties can be planted on the balcony, not about this you need to be prepared that they will entwine it from the inside, turning it into an indoor jungle.

Asparagus beans - greenhouse cultivation

Planting can be carried out either by direct sowing into a growing container or by seedling through peat pots. Boarding time depends on individual conditions, you can even organize year-round cultivation. For such a crop cultivation, the varieties Mask, Fatima, Violetta, Zelenopodrukovy 517 and Zolotaya neyka are well suited.

Growing at home often requires additional lighting equipment, but plants do not need a long daylight hours. The soil for planting should consist of two-thirds of garden soil and one-of humus. You need to constantly keep it loose. Top dressing is desirable - it is enough to use complexes with potassium and phosphorus a couple of times a month. Overexposing the harvest on the branches is only when collecting seed.

Growing asparagus beans in Siberia

Siberia is a rather harsh region in terms of weather, with short summers, which is not the best way affects growing crops. Most varieties of beans grow reluctantly in such conditions, so when planting and caring, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

1. Due to the short season, the earliest varieties should be chosen.
2. Beans are thermophilic, so you have to wait for favorable weather. Sowing is usually carried out not earlier than the end of May. In cold spring, it is better to think about seedling planting.
3. Seeds are best planted dry, without soaking.
4. Beans must be hilled after the sprouts are higher than 10 cm so that they do not die from the wind or their own weight.
5. It is imperative to tie up climbing plants, as there is a lot of precipitation and leaves and pods on the ground can rot.
6. During a cold snap, it is better to cover the beans with a film material.

Harvesting should be done when the pods are ripe. When planting early maturing varieties, the collection begins in August. After removing the ripe fruits, they should be left to ripen in the air, hanging or spreading out under a canopy. This allows the remaining pods to mature faster. With the onset of frosts below -1˚C, the plant can be completely pulled out and suspended to ripen.

Growing green beans: care after planting

Before the plants enter the flowering phase, the optimal frequency of watering will be 1 time per week. And this is counting on hot weather. If summer does not pamper with heat, then you need to adjust the intensity, looking at the deciduous part of the beans - an excess of moisture provokes its growth. At the beginning of flowering, you need to double watering. Also, after each watering, you need to loosen the soil so that a crust does not form, which prevents air from reaching the roots.

Superphosphate feeding can be done after the appearance of the ovary with leaves. The second feeding - while tying the buds, using potassium salt.

After the plants reach a height of 2 meters, you need to stop their growth by pinching the top. This, by the way, provokes the formation of ovaries.

Pest control

Common diseases for beans are powdery mildew, white rot, rust, bacteriosis and legume ascochitis. The surest way to avoid them is to choose good quality seed, so it is best to buy it from good location and corresponded to GOST.

When affected by powdery mildew, white dust or a film appears on the pods and foliage. To prevent the spread of infection, these parts must be torn off and discarded or even incinerated. After that, the bushes should be sprayed with a solution of milk powder and water (1: 9) twice a week. Experienced gardeners It is also recommended to add 1 part baking soda or apple cider vinegar to the solution.

The harvest time depends on the characteristics of the variety, namely, the growing season. The best time of the day to harvest is in the morning, when the dew is still on the pods. It is better not to overexpose the removed fruits, but to collect them while they are green and juicy.

Video: how to plant green beans

Video: caring for green beans in the garden