Spathiphyllum transplantation is a necessary procedure. Proper spathiphyllum transplant

There is a great female happiness in my apartment. Spathiphyllum will soon be three years old, lush bush- just a handsome man, only he rarely began to bloom, and the leaves became smaller. A friend advised me to transplant it. Tell me, how to properly plant a spathiphyllum and how often should this be done?


Or - not a very capricious flower, and does not require much attention to itself. In order for him to have a magnificent hat of shiny green leaves and please with his flowering, you need to maintain comfortable conditions development. Constantly observing the plant, it is important to plant the spathiphyllum in time, and when it is better to do this, the flower itself will tell.

Signals about the need for a spathiphyllum transplant

An adult spathiphyllum needs to be transplanted about once every three to four years. To understand that this time has come, you can by the following signs:

  • plant long time does not bloom;
  • leaves lose their usual size and become smaller;
  • roots begin to bulge out of the soil in the pot;
  • the rosette of the flower staggers;
  • the lower leaves inside the bush completely dry out.

If the leaves dry out only at the tips, this indicates dry air in the room. In this case, there is no need to transplant the plant, it is enough to rearrange the pot and moisten the air.

Preparing the soil and pot for planting spathiphyllum

For transplanting spathiphyllum, ready-made soil is purchased at a flower shop. Suitable substrate for flowering plants or universal soil for aroid. Add a little sand to the purchased mixture.


Light loose soil can be prepared independently by mixing for this:


  • two parts of sod land;
  • one part of leafy land;
  • one part of sand;
  • one part .

To improve breathability add tree bark or coconut fiber, and to fertilize the soil - a little superphosphate.

A new pot for transplanting a flower should be 3 cm larger in diameter than the one in which the spathiphyllum grew before. In this case, a wide pot is more suitable, rather than a tall one.

You should not take too large a flowerpot, otherwise the spathiphyllum will direct all its strength to the development of the root system, and will not bloom until the roots completely fill the pot.

Preparing spathiphyllum for transplantation

Before removing the bush from the pot, it should be well watered so that the plant is easier to reach. Next, carefully pull out and select the old soil and drainage from the roots.

With sharp scissors, cut flower stalks, dry and very small leaves. On old large leaves, tear off the dry parts at the base with your hands. Revise the root system and remove damaged, diseased and very long roots.

If an adult bush is too thick, it can be divided into parts and used to propagate the plant. In this case, it is desirable that the new bush contains several divisions. So the young spathiphyllum will quickly grow roots and bloom.

flower transplant

Put a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot and pour a little soil on top. Put a plant on it and add soil. Spathiphyllum should be transplanted in such a way that the buds (rudiments of aerial roots) on the lower part of the trunk protrude slightly above the soil level. Press the soil a little around the trunk and water the flower. If the soil settles after watering, add a little more.

Spray the transplanted plant with water over the leaves. Experienced flower growers it is advised to keep the spathiphyllum for 2 weeks in a greenhouse, putting a bag on the plant. So he will better transfer the transplant and flowering will come faster.

Spathiphyllum care and reproduction secrets - video


Spathiphyllum is a genus of plants belonging to the Aroid family. Its abundance fluctuates around 40 species. Spathiphyllum is native to the tropical regions of South America.

These plants are perennials that do not have a stem. Leaf plates grow immediately from the rhizome. Flowering is represented by an ear, which is placed on a peduncle and covered with a coverlet. In the people for this flower there is a name " woman's happiness or "flower of love". This poisonous plant, contact with which can cause irritation and allergies.


Species and varieties

- has oblong leaves up to half a meter high, placed on long petioles, the width of the leaf plate is up to 25 cm. The color of the flower changes from white to almost black. The bract is about 15 cm long and 10 cm wide.

- has oval-shaped leaves and a greenish flower and bract.

- lanceolate leaves reach 40 cm, wavy. Petioles that hold leaves more than 50 cm. The flower is a white cob, which is decorated with a bract.

- this flower reaches 50 cm in height, the leaves are slightly more than 20 cm. The bract covering the cob is white in color.

- the difference of this species in elongated leaves with a curved tip. The cob bract is white-green.

- the leaves of this species are lanceolate, the cob is white, the veil, the color of which changes from white to green, is larger than the cob. Great for indoor cultivation. On the basis of this species, the spathiphyllum domina was bred, which differs from the parent in variegated leaves.

This is one of the variegated varieties. Some parts of the bract and leaves of this flower are devoid of chlorophyll and therefore have White color.

is a tall variety with long and wide leaves, which is excellent for growing in low-light areas.

Other varieties include spathiphyllum alana , chopin , cupido , verdi , Suite Silvio . But in general, there are many more different varieties of this plant.

Spathiphyllum home care

Caring for indoor spathiphyllum involves following some rules. In terms of lighting, he needs diffused light, because in this way it will grow large, and flowering will be longer.

During the spring-summer period, the temperature should be at the level of 22°C. And in autumn and winter time not lower than 16°C. If the degree falls below 10°C, the plant will die. Drafts also have a very detrimental effect.

How to water spathiphyllum

Irrigation must be done all year round settled water. During active growth and in general during the warm months, watering should be plentiful. It must be performed two or three times a week, without even waiting for the top ball of soil to dry completely, since when the earth dries out, part of the rhizome dies. It is necessary to water carefully so that the water pours out only on the soil.

When growing in a spathiphyllum room, spraying should be carried out, and the plant pot should be placed in a container with raw expanded clay. Spraying should be done at least twice a day, otherwise the leaves will begin to dry. In winter, watering is limited to once every seven days.

Fertilizer for spathiphyllum

From March to September, spathiphyllum requires fertilizer with mineral top dressing. Fertilizer is diluted very weakly - 1 g / 1 liter of water. Water the flower well before and after fertilizing.

Top dressing should be regular - once every 15 days. In winter, if the plant does not bloom, it is also fertilized about once every 5 weeks. During the flowering period, fertilizer is not recommended. Also, this procedure is not performed for young plants and after transplantation. For better flowering choose supplements with large quantity potassium and phosphorus.

Spathiphyllum transplant and soil composition

Spathiphyllum transplantation at home is carried out in the spring, if the rhizome has grown to the entire pot. The roots of the flower are quite fragile, so it is advised to use transshipment, removing only a small part of the earth from the roots. If the rhizome is rotten, then it needs to be cleaned.

The composition of the soil for spathiphyllum includes peat, humus, river sand and a mixture of leafy soil with turf (the same amount of each component). But you can buy ready-made soil for aroids in a specialized store.

The pot is taken in size a little more than the past. Drainage required. During rooting, the plant is watered a little less, you can also cover the flower with polyethylene and ventilate it a couple of times a day.

After the purchase, a transplant is required if the container with the flower is too small, but in general, the purchased spathiphyllums already feel good.

Spathiphyllum pruning

After flowering, you need to cut the peduncle so that it no longer sucks out nutrients, pruning should be carried out as close to the rhizome as possible. You also need to cut off dry and diseased leaves of the plant, and powder the sections with crushed coal.

How to propagate spathiphyllum at home

Cuttings are carried out in spring or summer. To do this, cut off a leaf socket and place it in water or plant it in wet sand until root formation. If the roots are already formed, then you can immediately land in the soil. Leaf cuttings cannot be propagated.

Spathiphyllum reproduction by dividing the bush

Dividing a bush is the easiest way to propagate Spathiphyllum. This plant quickly forms many young rosettes and because of this, it must not only be replanted every year, but also divide the bush. Parts of the plant are already independent spathiphyllums and can be immediately planted in the soil.

It is necessary to carry out the division procedure before the stage of increasing the green mass, that is, in the spring. The separated part of the bush should have at least three strong leaf rosettes and part of a healthy rhizome. You need to deepen the divisions to the same depth so that it is in the old pot.

Containers for planting young plants need to be small, otherwise the roots will take all the strength for growth. Before dividing, soak the roots with water, wash them and untangle them. After that, they are cleaned, the cuts are powdered with charcoal, and after that they are already divided.

Diseases and pests

  • If your spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow , then you should check whether you follow all the rules of care. For example, the plant will begin to turn yellow if it is rarely watered or the humidity in the room is too low. Also, yellowness may appear due to aphids that feed on its juice. Carefully inspect the plant for the presence of this pest.
  • But the most common destroyer of spathiphyllum is spider mite . If found, take immediate action.
  • When there is insufficient humidity, drying and curling of leaf tips . Also, the leaves curl if the flower is cold.
  • If the light is too bright, the leaves of the plant begin to turn pale . Move the pot to another place, and cut off the light leaves, otherwise this process may become irreversible.
  • Leaves turn black if the root is sick . Most often this happens if the spathiphyllum suffers from excess moisture. If so, then urgently transplant and clean the rhizome. But also the cause of the appearance of blackness on the leaves is an unbalanced fertilizer. If you overdo it with top dressing and after that black spots appear, then a transplant is not required.
  • Spathiphyllum won't bloom if the amount of fertilizer was excessive. Also, flowers usually do not appear if the roots fill the entire capacity of the pot.
  • In all types of spathiphyllum, the bract is slightly greenish. But if the flowers began to turn green excessively, then this indicates errors in care. . Possible cause is a decrease in temperature to 15 ° C and below. Also, greening begins with a lack of lighting. Green flowers are cut off, but be sure to leave one.

Spathiphyllum - perennial evergreen, which has many species, many of which are successfully grown at home and greenhouses. They are very unpretentious in care and perfectly decorate the interior. Any novice florist can handle the cultivation and breeding of such a flower.

The inflorescences of the plant resemble a young elongated corncob. They call it "women's happiness" because beautiful shape inflorescence, similar to the dress of the bride.

Common plant species

In nature, spathiphyllum grows in the Philippines in the southern part of the United States. He has and beneficial features, namely, it absorbs harmful substances(xylene, carbon monoxide, benzene) from indoor air.

Additionally moisturizes it and saturates it with phytoncides and charged ions, which perfectly suppress the spread of mold fungi.

In an apartment or house, you can easily grow the following types of this beautiful plant:

  1. Charming - elongated leaves with elongated ends. It blooms profusely with cobs of greenish-whitish bedspreads.
  2. Helicone-leaved - a medium-sized variety with dark green glossy foliage and wavy edges.
  3. Wallis - a low flower up to 30 cm with oblong leaves of a dark green color. It is unpretentious when growing and blooms profusely.
  4. Cannoleaf - similar to canna leaves, a delicate smell thins out from the flowers.
  5. Abundantly flowering - grows up to 45 cm tall. It has a white spathe on a cream cob. At good care blooms for a long time and profusely.
  6. Sensation is a giant Dutch flower with dark green ribbed leaves. Grows well in the shade.
  7. Picasso is unpretentious, reproduces freely, has a bright color: white stripes on a dark green leaf.
  8. Domino stands out for its variegated foliage. It sometimes grows up to 1.5 meters.

For home gardening different types spathiphyllum are ideal. "Women's Happiness" can be placed in a pot even in a darkened office.

Spathiphyllum plant care at home

It is very important to follow some rules for the care decorative flower. Consider the following factors:

  • transfer;
  • soil quality;
  • fertilizer;
  • temperature and humidity;
  • reproduction;
  • lighting;
  • watering.

It is necessary to be guided in what to do so that the plant does not die if it starts to hurt. For example, its leaves turned black, changed color, partially began to dry out. It should be alarming that "female happiness" does not produce inflorescences for a long time.

In order for the plant to bloom on time, it is timely introduced into its substrate useful fertilizers summer and spring. In the hot period, the leaves are abundantly sprayed with water and the roots are watered so that a hard earthen lump does not form, and the soil is loose.

Spathiphyllum should not be exposed to direct sunlight, especially in summer, and it is better for the plant not to stand in frequent drafts, otherwise the flower will start to hurt and become vulnerable to all kinds of diseases and pests.

Location and lighting

Spathiphyllum is a fairly photophilous plant, but the lack of constant lighting will not affect its health in any way, although it can reduce the size and worsen the shape of the leaves. It is best to keep the flower on a plant stand on the north side near the window.

It is not necessary to occupy the windowsill. Loves ornamental plant most scattered light. It is better to shade the windows in the summer so that the direct scorching sun does not affect the flower.

Humidity and temperature

Spathiphyllum feels great at a room temperature of 15-20 ° C. V summer season it normally tolerates heat up to 27 degrees. In winter, it tolerates up to 13 degrees, but often it is better not to water the plant at this temperature.

As far as humidity is concerned, optimal level it in a room with a plant - 50-60%. But if it is normal to organize watering, then there is no need to particularly monitor the humidity.

During the heating period, you can spray the flower with plain water several times a week, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, or keep a pan with wet pebbles nearby with a pot.

Plain soft water should be defended in advance for at least 10 hours. It is ideal to water the plant with rainwater. More often, watering is carried out during flowering, but bypassing the inflorescences. After watering, be sure to pour water from the pot tray.

It is harmful to water spathiphyllum with cold water. Too often a flower is also dangerous to water. Dry before next moisturizing. upper layer ground substrate.

Top dressing and soil

Before planting the plant, it is necessary to prepare the substrate. It is enough to take humus, river sand, leafy soil, sphagnum peat. To pass good drainage and optimal aeration, they fill up the pot charcoal, brick chips or bark coniferous trees. It will turn out a soft soil mixture, loose and prolific.

As for feeding and fertilizing exotic plant spathiphyllum, they are carried out in the fall once a month. Top dressing is not carried out in winter, and during the flowering period it is better to add fertilizer for home flowers several times a month.

Mineral fertilizers are diluted in settled water for irrigation. You can alternate such top dressing with organic.

Reproduction and transplantation of spathiphyllum at home

In greenhouse conditions, the flower is propagated by dividing the main bush. Before transplanting, several leaves with roots are separated from the general cluster. It is desirable that they have 2-3 cm in length. The delenka is transferred to a capacious pot with loose earth mixture.

Young flowers are transplanted annually. For them, a shallow and small pot is enough. Before transplanting from an old pot, the plant is well watered.

In order for the flower to grow well in a new place, it is better to remove small shoots from the sides, which take the strength of the plant. To speed up rooting after transplantation, it is useful to spray the leaves in the evening with a solution with epin.

The next day, it is better not to water the flower, but only spray it with plain water. Soil moistening is resumed after 3-4 days.

insect pests

Sometimes a spider mite or aphid settles on the leaves of a spathiphyllum. To eliminate them, you can wipe the leaves with soapy water and add nicotine sulfate to it.

Before the procedure, it is better to cover the pot with soil with a film so that the substrate does not get into the soil.

A day later, the substrate is washed off the leaves and the procedure is repeated. Common insect pests include both the mealybug and the scale insect. From them well helps not only soapy water, but also tobacco infusion.

Spathiphyllum diseases

"Women's happiness" sometimes gets sick:


How long does spathiphyllum bloom at home

The flowering period of the spathiphyllum usually falls in the spring and lasts several weeks. A young plant will not bloom in the first years. Flowers appear if the flower is planted in a slightly cramped pot. Flowering in a wide and deep pot will have to wait longer until the roots grow throughout the earthen substrate.

With a lack of moisture and nutrients, the cobs also do not appear, and the spathiphyllum plant itself is oppressed, with yellowish and small leaves and low length.

Regulate flowering additives to the soil with potassium and phosphorus.

Is it necessary to do this after purchase?

Spathiphyllum must be transplanted 15-20 days after purchase. In the store, the plants are kept in transport peat soil. Such a substrate is not suitable for the further development of the flower.

When do you need to hurry?

The need for an urgent transplant can be determined by the appearance of the spathiphyllum. Such a plant occupies almost the entire volume of the container, leaves become smaller, buds do not form. This means that the roots completely entwined the earthen ball and stopped developing.

Attention! If you do not transplant the flower on time, the process of rotting of the root system may begin.

When is it better to abstain?

Step-by-step instructions on how to properly carry out the procedure at home

Spathiphyllum loves a loose, slightly acidic substrate that retains moisture well. The soil can be bought in specialized stores. It is necessary to purchase a soil mixture for plants of the Android family. Suitable land for flowering plants. In this case, one tenth of sand or perlite should be added.

You can prepare the soil mixture yourself at home. The following components are required:

  • sod land - 2 parts;
  • leaf ground - 1 part;
  • coarse sand, perlite or vermiculite - 1 part;
  • peat - 1 part;
  • wood ash - 0.5 parts;
  • expanded clay or small broken brick - 0.5 parts.

You can add some shredded coconut.

Pot selection

Spathiphyllum needs a container two to three centimeters wider than before. If you choose a pot that is too large, the plant will not bloom until root system will not bind the entire earthen ball.

The rest of the inventory

You need to take a knife, secateurs or scissors and treat with an alcohol-containing liquid. A garden trowel may also come in handy.

Plant preparation

  1. Remove old dried leaves.
  2. Cut off young shoots.

First watering

Immediately after the procedure, it is required to moisten the earth abundantly. After a while, drain the water from the pan. If the soil settles after watering, add the substrate. Moisture helps the spathiphyllum recover after transplantation and adapt to new conditions.

Possible problems and difficulties

The root system of the plant is very delicate and vulnerable. During the transplantation process, it is important not to damage this part of the spathiphyllum. Careless manipulations can lead to development problems and even plant diseases. That is why it is recommended to use the method of transshipment of an earthen coma.

Sometimes after transplantation, the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn yellow, the plant begins to fade. The reason is most often a lack of moisture.

Further care

At once after the procedure, it is required to spray with a spray bottle. During the first two to four weeks after transplantation, conditions must be created for the plant high humidity. Aboveground part spathiphyllum must be placed in a mini-greenhouse. To do this, put on the plant plastic bag. Such a cap should be removed only for the purpose of ventilation, as well as before watering and spraying.

Watering

It is required to moisten the soil as the top layer dries. Use settled water for irrigation room temperature. Be sure to drain excess liquid from the pan. It is useful to arrange a shower once a week if the bathroom is warm. In winter, the abundance and frequency of watering and bathing should be reduced.

Attention! Water stagnation must not be allowed. Prolonged waterlogging of the soil can lead to rotting of the roots and death of the spathiphyllum.

In the room where the flower is located, it is necessary to maintain a constant humidity of 60-70%. After transplantation, it is recommended to spray the plant in the morning and evening.

With wilting and yellowing of the leaves, it is required to increase the number of sprays up to three times a day. Then, after improving the condition of the plant, once will be enough. If the air in the room is not humid enough, you can place water containers next to the plant.

Site selection and lighting

The plant feels great on the northern, western or eastern windows. For spathiphyllum, you should choose a place away from heating appliances- dry air harms the plant.

A dim diffused light is needed. In summer, you need to shade the plant or clean it deep into the room. In winter, put on the windowsill.

Spathiphyllum does not tolerate direct exposure to bright sunlight. This can lead to burns and wilting of the leaves, as well as stunted growth.

Temperature

Optimal temperature regime for the plant is from +22 to +25 ° C in the warm period. In winter, the indicators should be in the range from +18 to +20 ° C and not fall below +16 ° C. It is important to avoid drafts and hypothermia.

In winter, you can not often arrange a shower for a flower, otherwise there will be problems with the roots and the leaves will begin to turn black.

top dressing

Suitable liquid fertilizers for flowering indoor plants. Such top dressing should be applied from spring to autumn, once every seven to ten days, after watering. Fertilizers in granules are not recommended. In winter, spathiphyllum does not need to be fed - the plant is at rest.

Care after flowering

With a good content, spathiphyllum blooms from spring to autumn. After the flowering period, it is necessary to cut the dried flower. You should also reduce the frequency of watering.

Attention! With proper maintenance, the spathiphyllum is actively growing, it needs an annual transplant. It's better to do it in spring time, between flowering periods.

So, we examined when and how the spathiphyllum is transplanted after purchase. It is important to carry out this procedure carefully and carefully. Then organize the right care, taking into account the needs of the plant. Provide sufficient humidity, keep the spathiphyllum warm, protect from bright light and feed in a timely manner.

Indoor flower spathiphyllum is chosen by many flower growers - lovers for growing and decorating home interior. Looking at the lush flowering plants in the windows of flower shops, one cannot resist the temptation to purchase it. In order for the flower to continue to bloom beautifully at home, you need to transplant it correctly and on time.

How to transplant a freshly bought flower?

With the advent of a new "female happiness" in the house, as the spathiphyllum is often called, new women's chores for caring for it appear.

When purchasing a plant, one should take into account the fact that in about two to three weeks it will need to change the nutrient soil. Because the flowers from the store usually grow in very small vessels, and they abundant flowering carried out due to the correct and timely top dressing.

After the "move" the flower must be given time to acclimatize in the new conditions. Usually two weeks is enough to get used to. The nutrients put into the soil before purchase will provide it with everything it needs for the first time.

Soil preparation

This period of time should be used to prepare a new soil mixture, if possible. Knowing that the flower prefers slightly acidic soil, arranging the necessary substrates will not be particularly difficult.

  • sod land (2 parts)
  • leaf ground (1 part)
  • sand (1 part)
  • peat (1 part)

This will be the basis of the soil for "women's happiness." As additional components, you can take:

  • chopped spruce bark
  • charcoal
  • ceramic chips

Additional components are taken in 0.5 parts. All substrates must be well mixed with each other. Treatment with phytosporin is desirable.

If there are difficulties in the process of preparing the soil, it can be purchased at a flower or specialty store.

Expanded clay is more often used as a drainage material, but ordinary river pebbles are also suitable. Now that the soil has been prepared, you should decide on the choice of container for spathiphyllum.

Choosing a new pot

When choosing a pot, you should know that the flowering of "female happiness" will begin only when inner space the vessel allotted to him will be completely filled with roots. Based on this, you should decide on the desired result.

For rapid flowering, you will need a pot slightly larger than the one from which it will be transplanted. If preference is given to building up the aerial part of the plant, then the dishes are chosen more voluminous.

When everything is taken into account, you can proceed directly to the transplant.


When transplanting, spathiphyllum can be divided into parts

A layer of drainage material is poured onto the bottom of the selected pot, a layer one and a half to two centimeters high will suffice. Next is the prepared soil, its layer is also about 2 cm.

A plant in an old pot is carefully watered along its walls. Do not waterlog the soil unless you plan to completely replace the soil.

Carefully, trying to cause as little damage to the roots as possible, remove the plant from the pot and install, together with a lump of old soil, in a prepared vessel.

Gently pour the soil around the circumference, moistening it periodically. It is desirable to position the plant in the center, this will enable all parts of the root system to receive nutrition from the new soil mixture. This method of transplantation is called the "transshipment" of the plant.


After transplanting, you need to water the flower

In the case of a complete replacement of the soil, water the plant more abundantly before transplanting than in the previous case. So that the earthen ball, when extracting the plant, crumbles.

You should carefully examine the roots of the flower: remove its damaged parts, cut too long using a pruner.

This also applies to the leaf apparatus: dried and damaged leaves are removed without regret. Work should be done very carefully so as not to damage the neck of the plant.

Place the plant in the pot prepared as described above and proceed to fill it with soil mixture. Lightly compacting the soil around the roots, fill the pot to the base of the neck of the plant. Water generously, and if the soil has settled, add required amount earth.

Flowering plant transplant

If necessary, a transplant is allowed flowering plant. It is better, of course, to wait and wait until the end of flowering, but if growing in an old pot threatens the plant with death, you should not postpone it. The whole transplant procedure consists of the same moments as in the cases described above. With one addition.

Peduncles must be removed to allow the plant to use its strength to adapt the root system to new growing conditions.

Whatever the reason for the need for a transplant blooming spathiphyllum, it is better to update the earthen mixture in a pot completely.

During transplantation of an adult flower, it is possible to divide it into several parts. The main thing is that each of them has its own growth point and from 3 to 5 leaves.

How often to transplant "female happiness"

For young plants that are fast growing at proper care, the interval between transplants can be one year.

Adult flowers that have been living in an apartment for more than a year are usually transplanted at intervals of 3-4 years. The best time for this work - spring, the period before the awakening of the plant.

But violations of the timing of transplantation are possible in cases of disease or damage to plants. Such an “untimely” procedure will not bring much harm to the flower.

How to care for spathiphyllum after transplantation

The survival of the plant will be painless if you follow some rules.

Air humidity

It is necessary to maintain a constant humidity of the air, for this, the leaves of the flower are sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Good result to create high humidity, gives a bowl located next to the plant filled with water.

Insufficient moisture can lead to leaf penetration. And if this, nevertheless, occurs, the number of sprayings should be increased. This applies to a newly transplanted plant, and a flower that this procedure has not touched.

Watering a flower

Will affect the condition of the leaves and insufficient watering. The spiky leaves will begin to turn yellow starting at the top. The drooping leaves and drooping stem of a flowering plant are the first sign that the plant is suffering from a lack of moisture. Spathiphyllum roots should always be in moist soil, and dry soil on the surface of the pot indicates the need for watering.


Sun rays

A direct hit of scorching sunlight on the plant will inevitably lead to a burn of the leaves, and this, in turn, will affect them. appearance. The plant will first drop the leaves, and then they will turn yellow.

If you do not protect "female happiness" from the sun in time, the flower may die. Therefore, it is better to put a pot with a plant where it is light, but there is no threat of burns. Tolerates spathiphyllum and light partial shade.

How to transplant spathiphyllum: video

Compliance with these rules will allow the plant to transfer this necessary procedure relatively painlessly. A plant that has grown stronger after transplantation will delight its owner with a beautiful and long flowering.