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Early spring work on the protection of fruit and berry plants is aimed at the destruction of pests and pathogens of plants that are in the stage of "winter dormancy" before they begin to damage the plants.
In the orchard
If in late autumn or during the winter nests of hawthorn and golden tail, as well as dried fruits hanging on branches, were not removed from the trees, they are removed in early spring.
Protection of tree bark from early spring burns
In early spring the weather is still unstable. The relatively high temperature during the daytime often drops sharply at night. Under such conditions, the bark of trees heats up very unevenly. If on a warm February day we measure the temperature of the bark on the surface of the trunks, then in the sun, on the southwestern side, it will be 12-15 ° higher than on the shaded, northeastern side. Only in those cases when, since autumn, tree trunks have been plastered with lime mortar and have a whitish color, the difference in bark heating on the refreshed and shaded sides of the trunks will be small - within 3-5 °.
Thawing and overheating of the bark during the day, followed by its freezing during a sharp drop in temperature at night, can cause early spring burns. They appear in the spring during sap flow in the form of spots on the bark of trunks and main branches, mainly from the southwestern side. The damaged bark usually becomes lighter in color and, when pressed with a hand, is pressed in.
Early spring burns can capture large areas of bark and cause the death of trees, especially young ones. Therefore, in the very first days of spring thaws, it is necessary to inspect the trees and restore the whitewash if it has been disturbed during the winter.
Pest and disease control during spring tree pruning
At spring pruning garden, it is necessary first of all to remove dead and damaged branches, a significant part of which is usually infected with scale insects, bark beetle larvae, black cancer, cytosporosis and other pests and diseases. Cut branches with clutches of ringed silkworm eggs are placed in a dish and left at the edge of the garden to preserve beneficial insects- oviparous, the larvae of which are inside part of the eggs. Silkworm caterpillars will come out of eggs that are not infected with an egg-eater during bud break, but deprived of food, they will die. The egg-eaters will fly out later, when new clutches of ringed silkworm eggs appear.
Simultaneously with pruning, wounds are treated on the bark of the trunks and the main branches formed from breaks, frost holes, and damage by rodents. The wounds are cleaned, leveled with a knife to living tissue, disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (10 g per 1 liter of water) and covered with garden pitch.
Spraying the garden before bud break
When the average daily air temperature reaches 5°C, it is time for the first spraying of fruit trees with pesticides and berry bushes. Effective control of garden pests and diseases depends mainly on timely and correct application chemicals. However, this does not mean that one should annually established scheme to spray gardens with toxic substances, hoping to destroy all pests and diseases.
When planning control measures, it is necessary to proceed from the degree of infection of plants by certain pests and the expected occurrence of plant diseases. It is not recommended to use pesticides and other means of control without taking into account the actual presence of pests and diseases, “just in case”. The immoderate use of chemicals, along with unproductive expenditure of forces and means, in some cases can adversely affect the condition of plants and pose a danger to people and animals.
The first spraying of plants is carried out before the buds swell - against eggs of suckers, mites, aphids, leafworms, apple moth caterpillars, various pathogens (scab, leaf spot, cherry coccomycosis, etc.) wintering on tree branches, and against mosses and lichens. For early spring spraying household and collective gardens use nitrafen, N 30 preparation or KZM preparation, iron vitriol.
Nitrafen is used at a concentration of 3% (300 g per 10 liters of water); drug N 30 and its analogues at a concentration of 5% (500 g per 10 l of water); green oil concentrate (KZM) when spraying pome species at a concentration of 8%, and when processing stone fruits and berry bushes at a concentration of 6% (respectively 800 and 600 g for 10 l of water). Petroleum oils (preparations N 30 and KZM) should not be used annually, as this can inhibit plants, especially young ones. It is impossible to use these two preparations in the fall after leaf fall in order to avoid a decrease in the frost resistance of trees and shrubs.
It is advisable once every three to four years to carry out early spring spraying of fruit and berry plants with a solution of iron sulfate. Apples and pears are sprayed with 5%, and plums, cherries and other stone fruits, as well as berries, with a 3% solution (500 and 300 g per 10 liters of water, respectively). Iron vitriol helps to protect plants from various fungal diseases and destroys mosses and lichens. In addition, inevitably getting into the soil, iron sulfate contributes to better development trees and shrubs.
Some gardeners mistakenly believe that the pesticides recommended for spraying the garden in the early spring are equally effective (effective) against all types of pests wintering in the garden. To know which drugs are most appropriate to use against the wintering stages of a particular pest.
Comparative effectiveness of pesticides used to control pests and diseases of fruit and berry plants in the early spring.
Note: Two pluses (++) mean that this pesticide kills this pest well, one plus (+) indicates a partial effect, and a minus sign (-) means that the pesticide is not effective enough and it is not advisable to use it against this pest.
Spraying before bud break is carried out by washing, since only with abundant wetting of all branches can most of the pests be destroyed.
Even with very careful spraying of fruit trees and berry bushes, part of the solution will be taken to the side, so if strawberries, perennial vegetable and flower plants are planted in the aisles of the garden, then in order to avoid burns of the growing leaves, it is necessary to cover the plantings with synthetic film or other dense fabrics.
On plots of currant and gooseberry
In early spring, branches of berry bushes that are broken, weakened and damaged by pests are cut out and destroyed. It is equally important at the same time to cut and burn gooseberry shoots affected by American powdery mildew - such shoots are black, hook-shaped. When cutting off the ends of the shoots, it is necessary to partially, by about 1 - 2 buds, also capture the healthy part of them. It is necessary to cut the affected branches and shoots before the early spring spraying of plants with pesticides.
Before bud break, it is easy to detect blackcurrant bushes with abnormally overgrown, as if swollen, buds, somewhat similar to small heads of cabbage. Such buds, as a rule, do not bloom and die by summer. If you cut an unnaturally overgrown kidney and carefully examine it with a strong magnifying glass, then small (up to 0.2 mm long) pests resembling crustaceans will be visible inside. These are females of the currant bud mite, one of the most common pests of blackcurrant.
Damaged buds must be cut off and destroyed, and if the bushes are badly damaged, it is advisable to cut out individual branches without breaking off the buds, carefully take them out of the garden and burn them. In order to prevent the spread of bud mites, as well as other pests and diseases, currant cuttings should be harvested only from previously identified healthy plants.
Budding in berries begins very early. In order not to damage them, the first early spring spraying of blackcurrants and gooseberries with solutions of nitrafen or ferrous sulfate is carried out immediately, as soon as the snow melts. Nitrafen at a concentration of 3% (300 g per 10 liters of water) is used to curb the development of fungal diseases - anthracnose, septoria and American powdery mildew and to destroy aphid eggs. Iron vitriol is also used at 3%, but at a concentration as prophylactic against fungal diseases.
On raspberry and strawberry plots
After coming out from under the snow, strawberries are cleaned of dry and diseased leaves, on which spores of various diseases hibernate and burn them. Immediately after this work, before the start of strawberry growth, it is advisable to spray the strawberries with a 2% solution of nitrafen (200 g per 10 l of water) or 3-4% Bordeaux liquid (300-400 g of copper sulfate and the same amount of quicklime per 10 liters of water) - to curb the development of gray rot and other fungal diseases. 3% Bordeaux liquid or 1% suspension of copper oxychloride (100 g per 10 l of water) should be sprinkled with raspberries. This spraying, aimed at containing various fungal diseases, is carried out before bud break.
With the likelihood of a mass appearance of raspberry bud moth, which is determined by the degree of damage to the buds and raspberry shoots by this pest in the past year, during the swelling of the buds, spraying with a solution of chlorophos (20 g per 10 l of water) is carried out, it is allowed to combine spraying with chlorophos with copper oxychloride. It is not recommended to combine chlorophos with Bordeaux liquid.
Spring processing of the garden
The sun shines brightly, the birds sing and nature wakes up, and the gardener hurries to his site. Gardening in the spring is an important event! Care in the country in early spring lots of. With the advent of warm days, along with plants, pests wake up and various diseases are activated. The garden is still covered with snow, the berry bushes have not budded, and the gardener is already preparing for spraying.
Early spring garden processing important event. If you want to enjoy abundant flowering apple and pear trees, healthy foliage and a big harvest, get ready to defend your garden. It is important not only to know when to carry out protection measures, but also to choose the right spraying agents.
Overview of tools and folk methods for processing the garden in early spring
Let's talk about when and how to properly spray trees in spring.
When to spray the garden in spring
Start off spring protection the garden is needed before the snow melts. Firstly, hard snow crust is a great thing. Your legs do not fall through and you walk calmly in the garden. Secondly, when the snow has already melted, the earth will be viscous, the gardener will be buried in mud, and pests will begin their vigorous activity by that time.
So, if you haven't visited the garden in January, then February is the time to walk between the fruit trees. Look for winter pest nests in bushes and trees. If there are any, remove them, but do not throw them on the snow, it is better to burn them.
Check if there is a silver ring on the annual twigs of the apple tree - these are silkworm eggs. Cut off such shoots and burn them too. Remove and burn all shriveled fruits and shrunken leaves on the bushes - this will reduce the population of hawthorns and golden tails.
As soon as the sun begins to warm (thawed patches begin in the garden), it's time to think about whitewashing. Adult trees are whitewashed - they cover the trunk and the main skeletal branches with whitewash.
Spring spraying of the garden from pests is the key to the future harvest. Timely work will significantly reduce the number of diseases and pests.
When should you spray your garden? Even before the buds swell, as soon as the temperature rises above 5 degrees Celsius, you need to start eradicating the spraying of the garden.
How to spray the garden in spring
Eradication spring spraying
If there was no eradicating spraying in late autumn, then in the spring it must be carried out. This is a 7% solution of carbamide, plus spraying with copper preparations (for example, Bordeaux mixture). For spring spraying, a 3-4% solution of Bordeaux mixture is prepared.
You can carry out an eradicating spraying with a solution of DNOC (100 g per 10 liters of water) - this drug kills all pests and diseases wintering on the plant.
Spraying from a flower beetle
Protection from the flower beetle should be carried out by spraying in 3 terms:
- before bud break, as soon as daytime temperatures reach +8 degrees;
- the second time - a green cone, the buds are just beginning to bloom,
- the third - just before the buds open - "rose bud"
There are many remedies for the flower beetle (Aktara, Iskra-Ts-M, Fufanol, karbofos, etc.). It is better to change the drug annually so that the beetle does not get used to the poison.
Spraying against stone fruit diseases (moniliosis, coccomycosis)
If stone fruits in your area are severely damaged by fungal diseases, additional spraying of trees before flowering with SCOR or other fungicides can be carried out.
Spring spraying of berries
In addition to fruit trees, do not forget about the berries in the garden: raspberries, currants, gooseberries, strawberries. These crops also need to be treated in the spring for diseases and pests.
In the spring, before the buds open (note that currant buds begin to bloom very early), you need to spray with copper sulfate or iron sulfate (500g) for diseases.
Before flowering, spraying should be carried out from gall midges, sawflies, ticks, aphids - karbofos or actellik.
How to choose a sprayer
The garden should be treated with a sprayer. Now on sale are the most different kinds sprayers. They differ not only in the volume of the refilled solution, but also in the mechanism of operation, the length of the rod and nozzles.
For processing apple trees dacha is suitable manual sprayer with a volume of 5 liters. For gardens from 20 acres, it is more convenient to use 15-liter backpack sprayers, in industrial gardens, electric twenty-liter sprayers are used.
In addition to choosing the right sprayer, the gardener needs to know how to properly treat the garden. The spray should be fine so that the solution falls on the trees not as drops, but as fine dust. For processing tall trees you need high ladders so that the solution gets on all the branches. You need to spray the trees from the crown to the lower branches. You should also spray trunk circle tree.
Spraying is best done in calm (morning or evening hours). Spraying will be successful if it does not rain that day.
When processing the garden, remember about protective equipment: a respirator, glasses, gloves, a raincoat.
If you carry out protective spring activities in your garden in a timely manner, you will definitely get a big harvest!
Bishal: instructions, reviews, buy, properties
By pressing the keyboard keys (Ctrl + P), the annotation of the Bishal preparation will be printed.
Drug manufacturers
National House (Russia)
Group (pharmacological)
Anti-inflammatory drugs of different groups
What it consists of (composition)
Bischofite = natural mineral, including chloride-magnesium sodium complex, iodine, bromine, iron and other elements.
Name in other countries
Pharm.Drug action
natural mineral.
Processing fruit trees in spring
It has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anesthetic effects, enhances the phagocytic activity of neutrophils, accelerates tissue regeneration.
Medication use
Inflammatory diseases of the oral cavity, nose, paranasal sinuses and pharynx (gingivitis, periodontitis, stomatitis, rhinitis, chronic tonsillitis, sinusitis).
Inflammatory and degenerative diseases of the musculoskeletal and neuromuscular apparatus (including deforming arthrosis, rheumatoid arthritis, sciatica, lumbago).
Contraindications
Hypersensitivity, pregnancy, integrity disorder skin(in places of application).
Various side effects
Allergic reactions, when large doses enter the gastrointestinal tract, a laxative effect may occur, which passes on its own.
Interactions
No data.
Doses and method of application
In dentistry - in the form of applications, baths 1 time per day for 10-15 minutes. Before use, dilute with water in the ratio: 1 part of the drug and 10-15 parts of water. With severe gingivitis and periodontitis, turundas soaked in a solution are introduced into the interdental spaces and periodontal pockets for 10-15 minutes. In otorhinolaryngology - for adults and children in the form of rinsing the nose and throat, nasal "shower", washing the lacunae of the tonsils. Before use, the drug is diluted with water (or 0.9% NaCl solution) in a ratio of 1:20 (or 1:40 for children under 7 years old). After operations in the nasal cavity and paranasal sinuses, endonasal electrophoresis is used with the introduction of turundas soaked in a polycatane solution for 20-30 minutes. Outwardly, applied (diluted with water 1:1 or undiluted) to the painful area of the body (pre-warmed with a blue light lamp or heating pad for 3-5 minutes) and lightly rubbed for 3-5 minutes, then make a warming compress. After removing the compress, the skin is washed with warm water. The course of treatment is 10-12 procedures (every other day).
drug overdose
No data.
Special instructions for use
Possible loss of crystals, settling on the skin and underwear.
Medication storage
Store in a dry place in an airtight container.
Selling method
Released without a prescription
This manual is posted for use by healthcare professionals.
Spraying fruit trees video.
How to spray trees:
plums, apple trees, pears, cherries, cherries, peaches, apricots, quince, on which the fruits rot and then dry up?
If the weather does not interfere and there are still days with a temperature of at least plus five degrees, you can spray the fruit trees this fall, and then repeat this treatment in the spring, but always before the buds open.
Spraying fruit trees in autumn and spring.
Spraying trees in autumn it is best to use a solution of urea for this (500-700 g per ten liters of water).
Moreover, they spray not only the trees themselves, but also the leaves under them. Spray solution should be fine. This will significantly reduce the likelihood of tree disease in the coming year.
Spraying trees in early spring at a temperature of about five degrees Celsius, it will be necessary to continue this work.
How to process the garden in early spring - we will tell and show
But it is better to treat trees at this time with concentrated Bordeaux liquid (300 g of copper sulfate and lime in a bucket of water). Instead of Bordeaux liquid during this period, it will be possible to use a solution of nitrafen (200-300 g per ten liters of water) or preparation No. 30 in the same concentration.
Spraying fruit trees with Urea (nitrogen fertilizer).
When is the best time to spray fruit trees with a high concentration of nitrogen fertilizer against pathogens?
Experts advise such spraying to be done after the end of the first frost in the air, i.e.
in the middle and even the end of autumn. It is necessary to spray the leaves of an apple tree, pear, cherry, sweet cherry with a five percent solution of urea containing 46 percent nitrogen. This treatment perfectly copes with fungal and infectious forms of diseases and destroys in all their manifestations.
True, here much depends on the quality of processing. If the tree can be treated now with a conventional shoulder sprayer, trying carefully and on all sides to make all the foliage of the trees wet. That spraying of the fruit trees went perfectly.
If the tree is huge, with a voluminous crown, then it is better to treat it with urea in early spring.
Spraying trees with a large and high crown before the natural fall of the foliage will not give an effect, because, after treatment, untreated leaves remain at the very top in the center of the crown, and hence the infection.
At autumn spraying soil with a concentrated solution of urea is obtained good result, because the liquid of the applied solution will equally and smoothly be placed on the fallen leaves of the tree - the main source of infection and disease, which allows us to hope for an increase in the cleanliness of the garden next year.
It should be noted that urea is an excellent tool for the destruction of fungal and viral infections and diseases of fruit trees, it is not dangerous for environment. Spraying trees with urea can and does replace the Bordeaux mixture, but does not cancel spring and summer preventive spraying of trees with fungicides.
Spraying trees in spring.
How to spray trees during the rosebud period, before and after flowering?
In spring, not only the garden wakes up. Preparing to start the "work" and its pests, pathogens. You should start fighting with them even in the phases of swelling and blooming of leaf buds: shake off in the morning at a temperature not higher than 10 degrees on the bedding of weevils, apple blossom beetles and destroy them, carry out blue spraying with Bordeaux liquid against scab outbreaks.
You should put trapping belts, hang jars or plastic bottles, cutting them in half, with fermented compote, kvass, diluted jam.
The next phase of the spring development of the garden is a rose bud, when from flower buds pale pink tips of flower petals appear, leaves increase in size.
This is the time before flowering. If during the phase of bud break, or green cone, the trees were not sprayed with Bordeaux mixture in order to prevent rust, scab and other diseases, then this will have to be done at this time. The same is recommended for the treatment of peach against leaf curl, if this spraying is not carried out before bud break.
Apricots, plums, peaches will help resist perforated spotting by spraying with a one percent suspension of colloidal sulfur or a one and a half percent suspension of freshly slaked lime. In the phase of budding, larvae of the pear psyllid, silkworm, sawfly, and leaf-eating caterpillars appear. It will be possible to use such permitted insecticides as Bi-58, decis and others against them, especially if the trees are not treated with one of these drugs in the leaf bud swelling phase.
During the flowering of trees, chemical spraying is not recommended. And after him, if in past seasons the trees; suffered greatly from scab, coccomycosis rust and other diseases, it will be possible to spray them again with one percent Bordeaux liquid. Against the sawfly, codling moth, leafworms, if they appear, processing will help; zolon, dursban and other drugs approved for use.
However, it should be remembered that when spraying trees, an individual approach is important not only to each crop, but also to each variety. After all, there are diseases that affect only stone fruit trees, or only fruit trees. And every culture has its own pests. In addition, some varieties are resistant to, say, scab, others are not very, which means that the latter are more in need of protective measures.
Spring is the beginning of gardening for summer residents. Not only nature is awakening, but also various insects - pests that prevent fruit trees and shrubs from growing and bearing fruit. To keep pests on suburban area was as small as possible, it is important not to lose time, and to carry out the processing of plants on time. How to process trees and bushes spring in the garden from pests? The answer to this question will help you save not only the plant, but also its fruits.
How to treat trees and bushes in the spring in the garden from pests?
Processing trees and shrubs - what to use?
With the onset of heat and with the snow melting, you can proceed to the spring inspection of fruit trees and shrubs, with a view to their further processing. First of all, it is necessary to cut off excess diseased branches and branches, clean the trunk from dead bark and lichen present on it. Cleaned places should be treated with garden pitch or other special means.
- Whitewashing plants. Usually, a solution of slaked lime is used for whitewashing, which is applied in two layers to enhance the effect. At present, products for whitewashing trees and shrubs containing blue vitriol and PVA glue. This composition is more stable than mortar, and protects against pests and disinfects the bark.
- Digging the soil.
3-4 days before spraying trees, you need to dig the soil around them in order to bring pests to the surface, where they will be destroyed.
- spraying. You can start spraying all trees and shrubs from the end of March. Processing is best done in the evening.
For the treatment of trees and shrubs, various preparations are used. Of the chemicals most often used are the following types.
- Even before the buds swell (better at the end of March), all the trees and bushes on the site should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (100 grams are taken per bucket of water). This will help to avoid fungal diseases, the formation of mosses and lichens, black cancer, scab. Bordeaux liquid also helps well. These are the most popular and proven tools.
- To protect the grapes from spotted necrosis, anthracnose and bacterial cancer, it must be treated with an aqueous solution of iron sulfate (200 grams per bucket of water), spraying the vine and the soil under the plant. It is necessary to carry out the procedure before the swelling of the kidneys, in the period until mid-April.
- Pears and apple trees must be treated before flowering with Iskra-M, Fufanon, Karbofos preparations. They are able to prevent the appearance of ticks, weevils, flower beetles, suckers. If the pests have already settled on the plants, then the treatment must be carried out twice. The second time - after flowering.
- For the destruction of all fruit trees and bushes of insects that wintered in the bark of plants, spraying with a solution of colloidal sulfur or its analogue "Neoron" helps well.
But often, gardeners use folk methods for processing horticultural crops. For example, to get rid of spider mite use infusion onion peel.
How to treat fruit trees from diseases
Against caterpillars and aphids - an infusion of garlic. Diluted in hot water laundry soap and ash, help to cope with aphids, sucker, powdery mildew.
In order to treat trees and shrubs with high quality, they usually use a hand pump or sprayer, holding it during the procedure at a distance of 80 - 100 centimeters from the plants. From such a distance, the solution will fall on the leaves and branches in the form of small drops. When spraying, for self-protection against pesticides, you should use a respirator (or gauze bandage), goggles, a hat and gloves. Spraying of trees is carried out from top to bottom, first the upper branches, and then the lower ones. After the branches, the trunk and the area under the tree are treated.
So, now you know how to process trees and bushes spring in the garden from pests? But it must be remembered that processing should be done only with a newly prepared preparation.
See also video.
Everyone who is engaged in gardening dreams of a beautiful fragrant garden and a rich harvest. To achieve this result, regular care of fruit trees is necessary. Spraying fruit trees in the spring is an essential procedure in order to collect high-quality fruits in the fall. Each processing and a separate type of tree needs its own methods and terms.
The procedure for processing trees in spring
Spring spraying of fruit trees includes three general treatments:
- The first is carried out in early spring before bud break. First, the area around the tree is cleared of last year's remnants: fallen and rotted leaves, dry branches. Then the trunk is whitewashed (slaked lime, PVA and insecticides). This will protect against sunburn and destroy pests.
- The next step is to spray the garden with blue vitriol. Spraying trees with vitriol will get rid of the appearance of harmful insects, such as suckers, flower beetle and weevil. The solution is made in the ratio of 100 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. The water should be warm, but not hot. If there is Bordeaux liquid, then spraying it with a mixture of it (600 g) and copper sulfate (300 g) on a bucket of water will be effective. This procedure will also protect against fungal diseases and saturate the plants with copper.
The same result will give a mixture of vitriol (50 g) and urea (700 g). It is diluted in 10 liters of water and is a fertilizer for such tree varieties as pear, apricot, quince, apple, cherry,. An excellent disinfectant will be for shrubs: gooseberries. The calculation is taken as follows: per 10 sq. m three liters of the mixture.
The second composition of the solution and its treatment will eliminate the appearance of mites, pollen, weevil and other insects living in winter time under tree bark. For him, we take diesel fuel and 72% laundry soap for 9 parts of water. You need one part more diesel fuel than water, and one part grated soap is enough.
If the insects nevertheless chose some trees, then spraying with this composition is carried out a second time in a week, until the pests completely disappear.
Spraying fruit trees in the spring will prevent diseases and get rid of harmful insects, which will be the key to a good harvest in the fall. Most drugs are toxic, so when carrying out preventive measures in the garden, it is worth remembering the safety measures.
Using various preparations for spraying fruit trees in the spring, it is necessary to take into account their temporary effect. Depending on the composition, the action of most of them ends 10-14 days after treatment. Combined mixtures are considered the highest quality.
Folk recipes for spraying fruit trees
Bordeaux liquid
Its use helps protect trees from diseases such as scab, rot, leaf curl, moniliosis, spotted lesions and rust. After treatment with this agent, the number of fruits increases and leaf growth is stimulated.
In the spring, a 1% solution is used. For its preparation, 100 g of quicklime is taken and diluted with water in the amount of 5 liters. The capacity for this is taken twice as much. In the second bucket, 100 g of copper sulfate is mixed with hot water (to avoid reaction with iron, the dishes are taken from glass or plastic). Pour the resulting mixture of vitriol into lime (but not vice versa). Mix everything and immediately start processing, since the shelf life of this liquid is not more than six hours.
blue vitriol
Spraying fruit trees with a 1% solution helps prevent shriveling, scab, leaf curl, spotty diseases on apple, cherry, pear, peach, plum, quince, sweet cherry, apricot, cherry and some types of shrubs. The proportions of the solution depend on the age of the tree.
In the fight against mold and disinfection of the earth, a 3% solution is used, for the prevention, treatment of wounds and getting rid of fungal diseases, 0.5% is used, and a 0.2% solution is used as top dressing and fertilizer. The last two options are suitable for processing trees in early spring.
colloidal sulfur
kills fungal diseases and prevents the appearance of mites. When using this drug, it is worth remembering that it cannot be used simultaneously with other products containing pesticides, mineral oils or phosphorus compounds. Since it is a potent substance, it is necessary to use special protective measures when working with it.
For processing, sulfur powder is diluted with plain water to a creamy mass. After that is added required amount water to obtain the desired dose of solutions. It is worth remembering that the use of other drugs is permissible after 15 days.
The most common preparations for spraying fruit trees
Nitrofen
It is used for the prevention of spotted diseases, prevents the growth of mosses and lichens, and eliminates sucking-gnawing insects. It fights well with weeds near trees, such as wood lice, colza and the like. A replacement for him will be the drugs Double Impact and DNOC.
For a solution of fruit trees 200 g of nitrofen is taken per 10-liter bucket of water; to disinfect the soil with the same amount of water 300 g. One mature tree requires 30 liters of this preparation.
Double punch
The drug Double Impact for spraying trees is used to protect against fungal-type diseases and protects against the appearance of pests. This drug among gardeners is famous for its long-term effect and high level plant protection.
To use this drug correctly, you need to know the dosage: here 30 g of the mixture is calculated for 10 liters of water. The ideal option considered for tree care in early spring and autumn.
Decis
One of the most popular means in the fight against pests of the root system. Destroys both larvae and small insects, as well as adults. It fights well with codling moths, potato moth and fly. It is harmless to people and animals. Ideal for spraying fruit trees such as pear, cherry, apple or peach.
Horus
Well proven in the preventive purposes of fungal diseases. Kills infected cells that appeared in the winter. Affects only young plants, older trees are not recommended. Distinctive feature is its effectiveness when used in cool weather, since most products are used, on the contrary, in dry weather.
Speed
Copes with most types of diseases. Apply before the appearance of infected spores. If there are any, then there will be no effect after its use. Soon it is not recommended to carry out more than three treatments, otherwise the opposite result will occur (for example, it will appear). The protection lasts for about a week.
More information about spring spraying
All preparations for spraying fruit trees contain pesticides, so safety measures should be observed when using any of them.
A few homemade pest control recipes that are not sold in stores:
To obtain good harvest it is necessary to take care of trees from early spring and it is not recommended to delay the deadlines. This is the most favorable time for the development of diseases in plants and the laying of larvae by insects. To prevent this in your area, use the described recommendations. Observing all these rules, in the fall you will certainly be rewarded with numerous healthy fruits.
VIDEO: detailed instructions for processing stone fruit trees
How to properly process trees on the site, in the following video:
apple scab 
apple scab
If you have treated apple trees from scab, and gooseberries from powdery mildew on young leaves, then spraying must be repeated on young ovaries. It is best to use a drug for diseases and pests for this. "Vectra". It is better not to use pesticides in your garden, but use biological products, and instead of chemicals, treat plants against diseases with a biological product "Zircon"(4 drops per 1 liter of water).
In the photo, blackcurrant bushes with small orange spots
Small orange spots - columnar rust, or larger orange swellings - goblet rust may appear on blackcurrant bushes. How to spray disease plants in this case? Treat the bushes with a preparation containing copper, for example, HOM. Also suitable for biopreparations "Fitoverm" or "Fitosporin".
cherry leaves 
gooseberry leaves
If last year the leaves of cherries and gooseberries turned yellow and fell early, then spray them with any of these preparations for the treatment of plant diseases.
Gray rot on strawberries 
Gray mold on raspberries
In wet weather, there is a risk of gray rot on strawberries and raspberries. Sprinkle the soil around the bushes with ashes. Good remedies for this plant disease are "Fitosporin" and "Zircon".
In the photo, red-gall aphid
On red currants in dry weather, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with a solution of drinking or soda ash (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) against red gall aphids.
Late blight of tomatoes 
Bacteriosis of cucumbers
In the greenhouse at the end of the month, tomatoes should be treated against late blight and cucumbers against bacteriosis. For this purpose, use a drug to protect plants from diseases. "Zircon". If a spider mite appears on the cucumbers (massive yellowing of the leaves as a whole), then apply "Fitoferm".
Plants do not set fruit well
If plants in greenhouses do not set fruits well, then once every 10 days spray them with preparations for treating plants from diseases "Ovary" or "Bud".
Peony sprouts 
Peony sprouts
As soon as pink sprouts appear on peonies, immediately spray them with a protective spray against rot with a solution of any drug for combating plant diseases containing copper (a solution of Bordeaux mixture, "Fitosporina").
Clematis 
Shelter with white spunbond
Also open roses and clematis and do the same spray. Then cover them again, but without spruce branches, only with boxes. Place white spunbond on top. This shelter can be removed only when the threat of frost has finally passed. It is also necessary to spray planting phloxes, perennial asters, delphiniums and bearded irises right on the ground. Later, when shoots of lilies appear, repeat this procedure. This is especially important for oriental hybrids. In general, they should be sprayed systematically (at least once a month) all summer long. Zircon to avoid botrytis infection.
Asters in the photo
Pour annual asters with a drug against plant diseases "Fitosporina"- it helps to get rid of the black leg.
Spray the entire garden with one of the biological products to normalize the composition of plant cell sap. The best of them is "Silk" ("Novosil"). Also suitable "Epin-extra" or "Healthy garden". "Healthy garden"(and even better with a preventive protective cocktail: 2 grains each "Healthy garden" and Ecoberina, 4 drops "Zircon" and "Uniflora-bud", 8 drops "Fitoverma" per 1 liter of water) in general, all plantings should be processed once a month.
Aphids on the bushes 
Aphids on the trees
In dry weather, green (melon) aphids may appear on bushes and trees. How do plants treat pests in this case? Systematically spray the plantings, especially the ends of the branches, with an infusion of pine needles or onion peel. Also use infusion citrus peels or dissolve 3 tbsp. l. urea in 10 liters of water. Against aphids, there is also a chemical preparation for protecting plants from pests - "Perimore". However, it is better for spraying homeopathic, environmentally friendly "Healthy garden"(6 grains per 1 liter of water).
But it is impossible to get rid of aphids once and for all. A flying female, arriving from afar, immediately lays hundreds of eggs. Within a week, the insect will multiply.
ladybugs 
ladybug larvae
Our most reliable helpers in the fight against this pest are ladybugs and their large black larvae with red or orange dots on the sides. They destroy aphids and their eggs by the hundreds every day. Many, unfortunately, do not know what the larvae look like. ladybug and destroy them.
Gallica in the photo
Another helper is the predatory gall midge. She likes to settle on legumes and spicy crops, so planting these plants should always be on your site, in addition, they cannot be sprayed with pesticides.
Weevil on strawberries 
Weevil on raspberries
In early June, the weevil moves from strawberries to raspberries. How to water the plants from pests in this case? Use a chemical "Cipershans" or a biological product "Fitoverm"(which is preferable).
At this time, it is no longer possible to spray the garden with concentrated mineral fertilizer or iron vitriol against lichens.
Leave this work for late autumn, but do a protective spray against the first pests that lay their eggs in opening buds, and then separate buds.
Spray the garden 
Aphid
Before flowering, karbofos can be used, since it decomposes within a week and will have time to be neutralized by the time beneficial insects emerge at the moment the garden blooms. It is even better to spray the garden with an infusion of citrus peels or onion peels. It is especially important to process viburnum in a timely manner.
gooseberry bushes 
Black currant bushes
Gooseberry bushes, blackcurrants affected by powdery mildew, and apple trees affected by scab, spray with a plant protection product against pests "Zircon"(4-6 drops per 1 liter of water).
Do the first spraying on young leaves, the second - about 2 weeks after flowering is completed on young ovaries. In the autumn, one more spraying with the same preparations should be carried out after you harvest the crop.
Preparations for the treatment of plants against pests
Make sure that at the time of flowering, the ants do not eat the blackcurrant ovaries. If the bushes bloom, but the berries do not give - that's their job. Under the bushes, to protect against ants, spread a rag soaked in kerosene (but please do not water the soil with kerosene).
Ants 
Ant larvae
Ants and many other insects do not like this smell. You can drop a drop of any gel against ants on each trunk growing from the ground. A good preparation for pest control of plants is a gel "A great warrior". Insects will run to the bait. Since the ants not only eat themselves, but also carry prey to the anthill, each of them, except for himself, will destroy a lot of his relatives, and most importantly, the queen will die. ( By the way, this drug acts on wasps in the same way.) If there are a large number of ants bustling about on the soil under the bushes, remove about 2 cm of the top layer of soil, most likely, you will find egg-laying there. Pollinate it with a pesticide "Phenaksin" or "Ant"(preparations are low toxic for other insects and warm-blooded inhabitants of the garden). Ants and eggs will die under the influence of the drug.
Bud mite on black currant
Check for bud mites on blackcurrants - the pests are found in large round swollen buds that are very different from other buds and are clearly visible. Sick kidneys should be robbed and burned, and not thrown anywhere or sent to compost. When the blackcurrant blooms, see if there are any irregular flowers on any bush with narrow, fused petals of a dirty pink color. This indicates a very dangerous and contagious disease - terry. Uproot and burn such a bush immediately, even if you find flowers on just one branch.
Red currants 
red gall aphid
Red currants are often attacked by the red gall aphid, which penetrates the inside of the leaf, eating away the flesh. Her stool causes poisoning, which is manifested in red swellings on the leaves (galls). How to spray plants from pests in this case? Will help early spraying on young leaves "Fitoverm" or "Akarin", which is absorbed by the leaves and functions in the cell sap for 3 weeks, protecting the plant from any sucking or gnawing pests.
Important! After treatment of plants with preparations from pests, there should be no rain for 3-4 hours so that it does not wash off the preparation. In addition, spraying should not be done in sunny weather, because the drug will evaporate faster than it will be absorbed by the leaves.
In the photo aphids inside the leaf
Any external processing practically useless, since the aphid is inside the leaf. To prevent it from entering the leaves, carry out soda spraying in dry weather, but always on the underside of the leaf, as well as on the buds swollen at the very beginning of spring (3 tablespoons of drinking or soda ash per 10 liters of water). The fact is that aphids penetrate the leaf from the underside, and soda will burn its delicate cover and it will die. This pest lays its eggs at the very tip of the branches at the end of the season.
To kill them, in late autumn, after the leaves have fallen, treat the ends of the branches with boiling water or spray with concentrated mineral fertilizer / brine. Be sure to mow near the grass area, preventing them from earing, especially sedge - a breeding ground for rust.
In the photo, the Colorado potato beetle 
In the photo, the larvae of Colorado beetles
If you find bright salmon-colored larvae or yellow-black striped Colorado potato beetles on potatoes, treat the potato bushes with a preparation "Sonnet"(on the large areas - "Aktara"). Spraying is carried out once a season before flowering.
In the photo phlox 
On the photo of irises
Feed peonies, phloxes, irises, asters with ash, pouring it over the moist soil around the plant and slightly loosening it.
Pictured is a strawberry
If the strawberry bushes are “bored” or in the middle of the bushes an aphid slobber (spitting) appears, then pour hot solution (60-65 ° C) of bright pink potassium permanganate over the strawberries.
Red beetle on a lily bud 
Red beetle on a lily flower
drug "Sonnet" or "Aktara" you can spray lilies if you find a red beetle on them that eats leaves (semicircular cutouts appear on them along the edges), buds and flowers.
It is at this time that work can be done to preserve the crop and increase it. How to process trees and shrubs in early spring? This question is asked by every gardener. Everyone wants the work not to be in vain, and that the reward is a good harvest of fruits and berries. Therefore, a number of measures should be taken, the purpose of which is to protect garden plantings.
The benefits of spraying
If you do not spray trees and shrubs, then soon the garden will be affected by diseases and pests. This reduces the yield, slows down the appearance of fruits and berries. Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, it is necessary to decide on the methods of this event. Spraying is carried out several times a season. It helps to get rid of caterpillars, aphids, flower beetles, silkworms, powdery mildew, scab and other diseases and pests. Process everything and
Spray time
Usually garden plantings are treated three times during spring and summer. The effect of the solution lasts about two weeks. This should be the minimum break between sprayings. Processing should be stopped 2-3 weeks before fruit collection. In general, it is not advisable to use chemicals after the appearance of the ovary. Therefore, before treating trees and shrubs in early spring from diseases and pests, carefully read the instructions for the drug. Shrubs are sprayed much less frequently. When berries appear on them, processing can be stopped altogether. For this procedure, it is better to choose dry and calm weather.
Spraying steps
The first stage of processing falls on the earliest spring. At this time, pests that have successfully endured the cold period are destroyed. This is followed by the time of the second treatment. It is carried out after the appearance of the leaves. Thus, gardeners get rid of awakening insects. At the same time, prevention various diseases to which garden plantings are exposed. The third time the plants are sprayed after flowering. At this point, you can neutralize the spider mite and codling moth.
Preparatory work
Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work. First, you need to go around your possessions and remove old fruits and existing nests of pests. Old branches of plantings should be cut off. It is they who are good place for wintering and reproduction of pests and diseases. We take the branches outside the garden and burn them. Hot showers are used for shrubs. To do this, the water is heated to 70 degrees and poured onto the plants. This method helps to get rid of many pests and their larvae that overwinter on shrubs. This procedure must be carried out before the juices begin to move, so as not to harm the plants. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring without chemicals? Many experienced gardeners it is advised to spray garden plantings with a solution. This is approximately 150 grams of salt per 10 liters of water. A few days before the first spraying, trees and shrubs should be dug. We also cut off unnecessary shoots and branches.
First processing period
How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from pests? The first treatment is carried out in order to prevent the formation of scab. Even before the buds swell, the trees are treated with Fundazol or Skvor. There are many other tools with a similar composition. Before the procedure, the crown is thinned out and the trunk is covered with a layer of lime. When the buds begin to swell, another treatment is carried out, which disinfects the tree from the gall mite. To do this, you can use the drug "Neoron". Among more safe means urea solution can be isolated. 500 grams of the product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This solution also has a beneficial effect on the quality of the soil, spreading throughout the season.
Continuing early processing
Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, they should be carefully examined, identifying the presence of danger. Many drugs have a specific effect on a particular pest or disease. Therefore, it would be more expedient to use exactly the right components. When the first leaves begin to bloom, you need to carry out prevention from caterpillars that damage the leaves of plants. To do this, use the drugs "Kinmiks" and "Fury". From powdery mildew (and also as a re-prophylaxis of scab), you can use Fundazol and Skvor.
Fighting weeds
As you know, weeds are not good neighbors for With them it is necessary to fight constantly, not allowing them to grow and bloom. good remedy for this is "Roundup" or similar drugs. Processing must be carried out with extreme caution. The trunk of a tree or shrub must be covered with any material that will not allow the poisonous substance to enter the cultivated plant. Then spray "Roundup" on the weeds. Protection can be removed from the tree in a day. Remember that weeds are the best breeding ground for pests.
Final stage
The final processing of shrubs and trees is carried out after flowering. But this does not mean that the fight against pests and diseases is over. These are the main points of spraying, but it is desirable to carry out the procedure much more often. After flowering, the codling moth, aphid and leafworm are activated. Here, Fury is considered an excellent treatment tool. Spraying is best done twice, with an interval of 20 days. Additionally, you can use the preparations "Skvor" or "Fundazol". If the tree trunk is damaged by black cancer, then it must be treated with a 1% solution and covered with garden pitch. Further processing of trees is carried out as needed or for prevention, but with an interval of two weeks. From small rodents, you can use the drug "Zernotsin-U".
Shrub processing
Spraying shrubs has its own characteristics. It is carried out much less frequently. For processing, almost the same preparations are used as for spraying trees. From powdery mildew, gray rot and fusarium wilt, you can take "Fundazol". It also works well for fungus on gooseberries and raspberries. Before the appearance of buds, shrubs are treated with Topaz. This tool will help get rid of a special type of powdery mildew. During the swelling of the buds, "Clinmixol" and "Phosbecid" are used, which prevent the appearance of leafworms, sawflies and gall midges. After the appearance of the ovary, re-treatment with "Topaz" is carried out. From slugs, you can use Metaldehyde granules, which are scattered between plantings.
It is better to finish the processing of berry bushes during the period of fruit ripening or a month before they are harvested. After harvesting, the plants should be treated again with any remedy for pests and diseases.
Folk remedies
There are many remedies that gardeners have come up with and tested in action. Folk processing methods are distinguished by their minimal harmfulness to the future harvest. But the effect of their use is not so small. Tomato leaves, namely their infusion, help well in the fight against caterpillars and leafworms. Two kilograms of foliage is poured into 5 liters hot water. After 5 hours, the infusion is boiled and filtered. After that, the product is ready for use. The spraying procedure must be repeated after a week.
Many gardeners are wondering: how to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from aphids? Along with mites, it is a very common pest. To combat them, use a decoction with potato leaves. To do this, part of the tops is mixed with two parts of water. After 5 hours, put the mixture in a water bath for 40 minutes. Then the broth is filtered and cooled.
Bordeaux liquid - this is how to process trees and shrubs in early spring before flowering will be just as effective. This is the most popular and proven method of struggle. It can also be used in subsequent spraying periods.
Very often, mosses and lichens form on the bark of trees. This is an excellent breeding ground for pests and diseases. Many novice gardeners are interested in how to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from moss? It is simply removed from the surface of the bark with burlap or other hard material. Do this before spraying, so that the surface of the trunk is completely processed. The further appearance of moss must be controlled.
After completing the entire complex of processing, you can extend the life of trees and shrubs and achieve a good harvest.
Knowing how and when to spray fruit trees, the gardener protects both plants and fruits. Some plants can be affected by pests even during flowering, which can significantly affect the yield (quality and quantity). Therefore, you need to know when to spray the fruit plants in question (there are separate articles on raspberries and grapes), as well as what, that is, with what preparations to do this.
How to process fruit trees from diseases and pests and in what time frame
If there were no problems with fruit trees last season in the country, then in the spring you still need to spray. This procedure is preventive measure from aphids, powdery mildew, caterpillars, flower beetles, leafworms and other pests.
If the garden plot has been damaged by insects, then the first measures must be taken after harvesting in the fall. However, spraying can be carried out only when the weather is still at least +5 degrees. In addition, it is necessary to process not only the trunks and branches of plants, but also the foliage lying under them. Thus, it will turn out to minimize the possibility of spring damage to plants.
With the onset of spring, the treatment will need to be repeated. If you follow the recommendations of professionals, then in the spring period you should spray three times: the first time - in early March, before bud break, again - in early or mid-April, when the temperature is set at +10 degrees and fruit plants bloom, and the last - the end of May.
When carrying out the first processing of fruit trees, it is necessary to calculate that at least 20 days pass from spraying the plant to blooming its foliage. The bottom line is that products of chemical and biological origin that are suitable for their processing decompose for several weeks. In order for the young leaves not to suffer, it is necessary that the drug has time to decompose before they bloom.
The second treatment must be carried out before flowering. In this case, the concentration of drugs should be very weak so as not to destroy the inflorescences.
The last spraying is desirable to be carried out towards the end of May. The agent and its consistency should be similar to those used during the second spraying.
It is desirable to carry out work in the morning or evening, in calm and, of course, dry weather. If you process fruit plants before rain, then it will wash off the preparations and there will be no sense from such treatment.
Preparing trees for spraying
From trees that are more than 10 years old, the ancient bark should be removed, they should be cleaned of lichen and moss. If there are cracks in the barrel, it is necessary to carry out manipulations with a metal brush. Such procedures help the plant to breathe, as well as improve the appearance of shoots and stimulate its regenerative abilities.
When the preparatory work has been carried out, the territory and fruit trees have been cleaned, you can choose how to spray and in what concentration to dilute the drug. Irrigation solution should be made immediately before use, otherwise it can harm the plant, but remain harmless to insects.
How to spray fruit trees
How to process fruit trees, each summer resident - gardener decides on his own. Moreover, today there are a lot of drugs suitable for treating plants at different times.
If there are not very many pests on the fruit tree, then they go into action to combat them. folk methods:
- Hot peppers,
- cannabis,
- nightshade,
- onion,
- celandine,
- tansy
- tobacco.
These funds have shown their effectiveness in the fight against beetles.
In the case when there are a lot of pests or folk ways powerless, gardeners prefer such funds in the field of chemistry, how:
- diesel fuel,
- blue vitriol,
- preparation 30 (30 PLUS, 30 V),
- urea,
- iron vitriol,
- Bordeaux liquid.
It is impossible to say what is better to spray fruit trees, since each agent described has a directed action, that is, it fights a certain type of insects. Or a remedy may be great for one type of fruit tree, but useless, and often dangerous, for another. In addition, it is not recommended to use chemical substances when fruits begin to appear.
Folk remedies for pest control
For pests such as hawthorn and apple suckers, from folk remedies you can use tansy, celandine, tobacco or dandelion. Pollination by these plants can be carried out after rains or watering, only, beforehand, they need to be dried and finely chopped. You can also prepare decoctions from them, which are perfect for processing fruit - berry trees and bushes.
1. Infusion of tansy. Preparing it is quite simple: 0.7 kg of tansy powder must be poured into 10 liters of boiling water. Mix the mass, leave to infuse for 48 hours. When the right time has passed, boil the resulting mixture for about a quarter of an hour, then filter through gauze (sieve) and mix with another 10 liters of water. Mix everything again. Spraying with a similar solution can be carried out several times per season.
2. Capsicum infusion. A bucket of water will require 1 kg of pods. They must be filled with liquid, insisted for 48 hours, after which the resulting mass should be boiled for an hour (plus or minus). The concentrate after boiling must be poured into bottles with tight lids. You can use the tool as needed throughout the year. Before use, add laundry soap (80 gr) to a bucket of water (10 l).
3. Onions, dandelions, tobacco and celandine can be used without preparing the infusion. It is enough to grind dry plants very finely and sprinkle them on a watered fruit and berry plant.
Chemical means for spraying fruit plants from diseases and pests
Chemical preparations are used to treat fruit trees when infusions do not cope with numerous pests, and also when plants infect diseases.
1. Bordeaux liquid. This remedy can be used when re-spraying, when the buds on the branches are already there, but have not yet blossomed. But the prepared solution should be very weak. Add to a bucket of water:
- 50 g of dry copper sulfate,
- 0.2 kg of lime.
Everything is mixed and the resulting solution is pollinated.
2. Urea (urea). You can use this preparation for treating the trunk and branches after a week after the end of the flowering of pears (plums, apple trees), as well as in the further preparation of fruit trees for winter.
In the first case, it is necessary to take 0.5 kg of urea per bucket of liquid and approximately Matchbox copper sulfate. A high concentration of such a solution destroys all larvae. And if you spray the plum with a means in the fall, you will be able to protect the plum color from spring frosts.
A weak solution of urea can be used to spray the orchard after it has bloomed. This will save seedlings from aphids, leafworms, flower beetles. To obtain a weak mixture, 50 g of urea is taken per bucket of liquid.
Treating trees with urea autumn period can be carried out no earlier than the branches lose half of the foliage. Then you need to take 0.25 kg of urea per bucket of liquid. You can wait until the foliage is completely shed and use a more concentrated urea (8%). In this case, not only the orchard, but also the land is subject to processing, that is, the fungicide will act as a fertilizer.
3. blue vitriol. Pollination with this means of an orchard can be carried out no more than 2 times a year. The first treatment is carried out in early spring, before the buds appear. The reason is that even a weak solution of the drug can destroy young foliage. In addition, the use of copper sulfate is recommended if cracks appear on the seedling that need to be disinfected. As a rule, trees are treated with this fungicide in early March, and then towards the end of October. A solution of copper sulfate is used to protect apple and pear trees from scab, curliness, phyllosticosis, and plums from coccycosis and curliness.
For one young seedling, whose age is not older than 6 years, you will need 2 liters of solution, and for an adult fruit-bearing plant - 10 liters.
The mixture for the primary pollination of a tree is prepared as follows: copper sulphate and lime (0.3 kg each) are added to water (10 l). Mix, leave for 48 hours, boil for 45 minutes, strain, add another bucket of liquid.
For secondary processing, you need to take 0.1 kg of lime and vitriol per 10 liters of liquid, boil and strain. Dilute with water and carry out the procedure.
In order not to prepare infusions, you can buy a ready-made remedy - Nitrafen, dilute it in 10 liters. liquids.
4. inkstone. If in orchard old pears, plums and apple trees predominate, then spraying with a solution of this agent must be carried out in spring (early) and autumn (later). Thanks to this, it will be possible not only to eliminate pests, but also to get rid of moss, lichen, cytosporosis, septosporosis, and black cancer. Also next year, planting trees in the orchard will increase the yield.
Iron sulfate not only fights insects and diseases in the garden, but also supplies plants with the iron they need to live.
5. diesel fuel. It and some other oil products have been used for a long time when it is necessary to process an orchard. However, when using it, everything must be done carefully. Mandatory personal protective equipment (respirator, gloves and closed clothing). In addition, spraying the garden with this product can result in the death of fruit plantations. Therefore, all manipulations must be carried out carefully and in a timely manner.
In the spring, garden cultivation is possible when there is still snow in places and there are no buds on the trees. In autumn, manipulations cannot be carried out until the foliage is completely shed from the plantations, that is, until frost.
In its pure form, this oil product cannot be used. It is diluted in a large amount of liquid, and other means are also added that can minimize the destructive activity of diesel fuel. It is possible to use such a mixture, with a concentration of 50%: dilute 10 parts of fuel with 9 parts of water and add 1 part of laundry soap to the mass.
6. Preparation 30. Gardeners recommend using this tool in early spring or late autumn, diluting 0.2 liters of the substance in 10 liters of water. The solution helps to effectively get rid of whiteflies, aphids, mites, leafworms and other insects that winter comfortably in the bark of fruit plantations. Manufacturers guarantee absolute safety for the seedling when using "Preparation 30". The bottom line is that the substance does not poison pests, but disrupts gas exchange in the larvae and eggs that are in the treated area. Preparation 30 covers the bark on the trunk with a thin film, under which the pests die.
However, although this tool is very effective, it is often not recommended to use it. Optimal timing spraying - once in 3 seasons.
How and how to process fruit trees in the autumn
When autumn comes, the orchard requires special care. Constant temperature fluctuations adversely affect fruit plantations. At such a time, plants need competent care, and the gardener must be able to correctly determine the time for all treatments. In the middle of autumn, under the trees, you need to make potash fertilizers and superphosphate.
In the first decade of October, it is necessary to clean the branches and stems from the old bark, and then apply lime mortar to them. Young seedlings in the country can be treated with a chalk solution. Pear and apple seedlings can be saved from rodents by tying the stems and the beginning of the skeletal branches of the matting using hazel or cherry branches. In extreme cases, normal stockings will do.
But this is not the end of the work. After the first snowfalls, you need to pile up the boles in order to block access to rodents.
| Work period | Against what pests and diseases | Control measures |
Fruit trees |
||
| Early in the spring, before the buds swell (no later than) | hawthorn, goldentail, ringed silkworm, gypsy moth | Removal and destruction of winter nests of caterpillars, cleaning and destruction of egg-laying pests. |
| Bark beetles, black cancer, fungal diseases | Cutting diseased, shrunken, frozen, damaged branches. | |
| Wintering eggs of aphids, scale insects, suckers, mites | At air temperatures above + 5C, spraying with DINOK, nitrafen, garden carbolineum. | |
| Mosses, lichens on the bark of adult fruit trees | Spraying with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate (preferably in autumn) | |
| When kidneys swell | Apple flower beetle (weevil) | Shaking off the pest from the trees, dusting chemicals. |
| At bud break (before flowering) | Apple sucker, aphids, red apple weevil, caterpillars | Treatment of apple and pear trees with chemicals. In case of mass infection of trees with a tick, additional spraying with thiophos, karbofos. |
| Scab apple, pear | Blue spraying with 3% Bordeaux liquid over the “green cone” | |
| When isolating flower buds | Aphids, apple sucker, leaf-eating caterpillars. Scab and other fungal diseases. | Treatment with a combined composition: Bordeaux liquid + 30% wettable powder DDT + anabazine (without soap) |
| After flowering | Spider nests of pest caterpillars | Collection and burning |
| Fungal diseases | Spraying with Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes (copper oxychloride, captan, cineb). For simultaneous pest control, combined solutions are used. | |
| cherry weevil | Treatment with chemicals | |
| 15 days after flower petals fall | Codling moth and other caterpillars, aphids, apple sucker, mite | Treatment with chemicals. The imposition of trapping belts. Collection of scavengers. |
| 15-20 days after previous spraying | Repeat spraying, if the garden is also affected by scab, add copper oxychloride to the solution. | |
| As new pests and diseases emerge | Aphids | Spraying with anabazine with soap |
| Apple mite | Spraying with thiophos, and preferably with karbofos. | |
| Fungal diseases (scab, etc.) | Treatment with chemicals (fungicides). | |
| Systematically during the summer | codling moth | Collection and destruction of carrion. |
| After leaf fall | Codling moth, weevils, mosses, lichens | Removal of trapping belts and burning. Cleaning boles from dead bark, burning cleanings. Whitewashing boles and bases of skeletal branches. |
| Scab and other fungal diseases. Pests wintering in the soil. | Collection and burning of fallen leaves. Digging the soil. Treatment of hollow trees. Cleaning and burning of cut branches. | |
| hawthorn, goldentail, ringed silkworm | Collection and burning of wintering spider nests of pests. | |
| Rodents. Early spring sunburns of boles. | Tying boles and bases of skeletal branches of young non-fruiting trees with spruce branches, etc. Unfolding poisoned baits. | |
Currant, gooseberry |
||
| Before bud break | currant anthracnose, spotting, rust, powdery mildew gooseberry | Spraying with Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes (copper oxychloride, captan, cineb). |
| Aphids | Processing with chemicals. | |
| Currant bud mite | Removal of swollen, with a tick inside, buds on blackcurrant shoots. Spraying with thiophos, karbofos. | |
| Fire on currants and gooseberries | Spraying with chemicals. | |
| Currant bud mite | Spraying with a suspension of colloidal sulfur + thiophos or karbofos. | |
| Glassware | Cutting dried shoots | |
| After flowering | Terry currant (infertility) | Digging up and burning infected bushes |
| Currant bud mite | Treatment with composition: colloidal sulfur + thiophos or karbofos | |
| Sawmill, leaflet | Chemical spraying every 10-15 days, last after harvest. | |
| gooseberry powdery mildew | Spraying with a solution: soda ash (50 g) + 50 g of soap in a bucket of water or mullein infusion. Spraying is carried out 3 times with an interval of 10-12 days. | |
| Ognevka | Collection and burning of berries affected by moth. | |
| After leaf fall | Fire bug, sawflies, vitreous, anthracnose, rust, powdery mildew | Cleaning and burning fallen leaves. Digging the soil between the rows and under the bushes. Shrub thinning. Cutting and burning diseased branches. |
Raspberry, strawberry |
||
| Until the buds open | Brown and white leaf spot | Collection and burning of dry and diseased leaves. |
| During the formation of flower buds | Raspberry strawberry weevil | Spraying with chemicals. |
| spider mite | Spraying with thiophos or karbofos. | |
| Gray rot of berries | Spraying with Bordeaux liquid. With the simultaneous appearance of diseases and pests, a combined composition of preparations is used. | |
| Aphids | Spraying with anabazine with soap. | |
| During berry picking | Gray rot, raspberry beetle | Collection of diseased and damaged strawberries and raspberries. |
| After harvest | strawberry mite | With a strong infection, strawberry leaves are mowed without damaging the central bud. Soil loosening. |
| In the late autumn | Various pests and diseases | Digging the soil around raspberry and strawberry bushes. |
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