Did you know? Due to the high content of useful vitamins (A, B1, B2, B3, B6, E, C, P, PP), minerals (calcium, phosphorus, iron, potassium, magnesium) and phytoncides, radish is able to restore the human immune system after a long winter period.

With the mass distribution of babanukhs, insecticides allowed for processing radishes are used - Aktellik, etc.

Perhaps the most common and dangerous pest radish is a cruciferous flea. This is a small (2-3 mm) dark-colored insect (blue, black, green) with metallic sheen, which quickly jumps from plant to plant. Harms radish leaves by eating holes in them. It can severely damage the leaf plate, which disrupts the process of photosynthesis. As a result, the plant stops growing and may even die. The flea is especially dangerous for young radishes in the first two weeks after germination, since it is able to completely destroy them. A favorable period for the attacks of this pest is a dry hot summer.

The larvae overwinter in plant debris and soil. With the advent of spring, they first settle on weeds belonging to the cabbage family, and when cultivated cruciferous plants emerge, they massively migrate to them. Eggs are laid in the soil in early and mid-summer. One generation of cabbage fleas develops per season.

Control measures. To prevent flea damage, radish beds are fertilized with slurry. You should also destroy weeds in time and carry out a thorough autumn cleaning and digging of the garden. In the process of growing a plant, it is necessary, if possible, to feed it, loosen the ground under it more often and water it. All this will accelerate the growth of radishes, and for a strong and well-developed plant, the flea will no longer pose a strong threat. Also, in hot weather, radish seedlings are covered with burdock leaves and fir branches.
Before spraying flea radishes with insecticides, you can try gentle folk methods. So, against this pest, treatment with a solution of wood ash is used. It is prepared from 2 cups of fresh ash, 50 g of grated laundry soap(1 tablespoon of liquid soap) diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is left overnight, and early in the morning (up to six o'clock), when the flea has not yet entered the fishery, the leaves are treated with it. Pre-infusion must be filtered. Also, the solution is used immediately after watering.

You can just sprinkle wood ash over the garden. This procedure is carried out two or three times with an interval of four to five days. In the same way, radishes are treated with tobacco dust, ash, tansy powder (1 Matchbox/ 1 sq. m), celandine. They repel a flea and infusions of garlic, tomato tops. After watering or rains, the treatment with these products must be repeated.

Important! When processing radishes with folk remedies, it must be transferred to drip irrigation. Otherwise, the solutions will be washed off and not have the desired effect.

Some gardeners cover the beds with not heavily affected young shoots with agrospan - white nonwoven fabric. Or place crops under plastic bottles. This helps to stop the spread of the flea for a while. After the seedlings get stronger, they must be opened and treated with an ash solution.

Sticky traps are also used. For this purpose, for example, flags made of fabric, plywood or paper, smeared with non-drying caterpillar glue, are installed near plants. In the process of movement, the fleas stick to the sticky surface.

In the event that biological methods do not help and there is a great threat of crop loss, they resort to the use of insecticidal preparations from the cruciferous flea. Inta-Vir, Aktellik, Fufanon will help to overcome it. Processing is carried out only in the early stages of radish development.

Important! The use of insecticides for the treatment of radishes is an extreme necessary measure when other methods in the fight against the pest turned out to be powerless. Spraying is carried out no later than 20 days before harvest.

Belyanka is a white butterfly with dark wingtips. It has a length of 20-25 mm, a wingspan of 40-50 mm. The butterfly itself does not harm the vegetable. But its larvae are leaf-eating pests of radish. They eat leaves from the edges or gnaw through holes which cause serious damage to the plant. Caterpillars of a white green wave with light stripes reach a length of 30-40 mm. After flying out in March-May, whitefly butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves of cabbage plants. During the season, 1-5 generations can develop.

Control measures . The main control measures for these radish pests are:

• compliance with crop rotation;
• early sowing;
• destruction of cruciferous weeds;
• collection of caterpillars by hand;
• spraying with a solution of salt, mustard and ground pepper (2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of red or black ground pepper / 10 liters of water);
• treatment with biological and chemical preparations (in case of mass damage).

The number of pests can be reduced by planting dill, carrots, onions, and fennel next to radishes. These plants are able to attract insects of natural enemies of whitefish.

Control measures. You can scare away the cabbage fly by sprinkling beds and plants at the base of the stem with tobacco dust. You can use a mixture of tobacco dust with slaked lime or ash (1: 1). Processing is carried out every week. Also, the pest can be frightened by planting in the immediate vicinity of the celery radish.

It is important to follow the rules of agricultural technology: in particular, to loosen the soil after watering and rains, top dressing, weed control. To prevent the fly pupae from surviving in winter period, in late autumn it is necessary to carry out a deep digging of the earth in the garden. Early sowing of radish is recommended.

Did you know? Not only the root of the radish is eaten, but also the leaves. They are used to make salads and soups.

Often, gardeners have to deal with such a pest as cruciferous bug. It is this sucking insect that causes the radish leaves to turn yellow, and subsequently wither and die. The bug sucks the juices from the leaves. Spends the winter under fallen leaves and plant debris. Control measures. With the invasion of the cruciferous bug, spraying with infusions of dope or henbane will help. They are prepared in this way: a pound of dry flowering leaves pour a bucket of water, insist for 12 hours. Before use, mix 30-40 g of soap. Chemical treatment is not recommended. In extreme cases, Actellik or other drugs are used.

The cabbage moth is a moth of a gray-brown patronizing color. Its dimensions with a wingspan reach 14-18 mm. The butterfly takes off in May. She lays her eggs on the bottom of the leaf plate. A week later, green caterpillars about 1 cm long appear from them. They feed on the pulp of radish leaves.

Control measures . First of all, it is necessary to scare away the butterflies in order to prevent them from laying eggs. This will help spraying with a tobacco solution (200 g dried leaves tobacco / 10 liters of boiling water), decoction of citrus fruits, lavender.

Top dressing with superphosphate with calcium chloride has proven itself well. If necessary, and massive damage to plants (more than 10%), biological and chemicals. However, it should be remembered that during fruit ripening, spraying radishes with such means is prohibited.

The caterpillars of the cabbage moth feed on the leaves of radishes and other cruciferous plants. They carry out their malicious activities for a month. They overwinter in the soil. It is easy to recognize the moth - it is dark yellow in color with dark spots on the front wings. With a wingspan, it reaches a size of 2.5 cm. It lays eggs on the underside of the leaves. Its caterpillars are yellow with light stripes on the sides. Control measures. You can fight the moth by attracting it with bright light, and then catching it. Weeds must be destroyed. Perform autumn digging of the earth. It is better to sow radishes before the butterfly takes off.

With a slight defeat, eggs and caterpillars must be destroyed mechanically. You can apply foliar and root top dressing with potassium and phosphorus. When the threshold of harmfulness of 10% is exceeded, the use of insecticides (Lepidocid, Bikol, Fitoverm, Agravertin, etc.) is recommended.

The rapeseed sawfly is able to completely gnaw radish leaves, leaving only veins. It also damages buds and young shoots. Thus, it prevents fruit set and provokes the death of the crop. Control measures. It is necessary to follow the agrotechnical rules for caring for vegetables: loosening the soil, eliminating weeds, observing crop rotation, getting rid of plant residues.

Although there are not so many pests, and its ripening period is so short that they do not really have time to harm, nevertheless, sometimes the crop is spoiled. To prevent this from happening again, you need to know how to protect and how to spray radishes from pests. We'll talk about this.

How to deal with radish pests?

The main pest of radish is the cruciferous flea. This tiny, dark-colored beetle jumps deftly and, despite its miniature size, can cause significant negative results for radishes. Fleas eat the leaves of the plant, leaving holes in them. And when they reach a certain size, the radish stops growing.

Naturally, the root crop does not ripen and sometimes even dies. It is necessary to pay attention to this pest already at the germination stage, since young plants are not able to resist the pest invasion for a long time. Cruciferous fleas are especially active in dry and hot weather.

So, how to process radishes from these small pests:

1. You can spray the radish leaves with a solution of wood ash (2 cups of fresh ash per bucket of water with the addition of 50 g of laundry soap).
2. You can not dilute the ash in water, but simply sprinkle it on the garden bed so that it gets on the leaves. The same can be done with tobacco dust.
3. For greater efficiency, young shoots can be treated with the Inta-Vir insecticide. Spraying neighboring cultivated plants. However, this should be done only as a last resort, since there is a risk of destruction of crops.

Advice: after processing the radish, it must be watered very carefully, best of all - by drip, so as not to wash off the applied control agents from the leaves.

Another enemy of the radish is the whitefish, or rather its larvae. It is best to deal with it without chemicals. For example, treat the beds with a solution of mustard powder, table salt and ground pepper.

To prepare the solution, you need to take 2 tablespoons of mustard powder and salt and 1 teaspoon of red or black ground pepper. Dilute this mixture in 10 liters of water and water the radish bed.

In addition to pest control of radishes, it is also necessary to carry out preventive work - remove weeds in time, observe the correct crop rotation, do not be late with sowing seeds, use light covering material in the early stages, water in a timely manner, loosen the plants to accelerate their growth.

​Related Articles​

The main pests of radish: find and neutralize

Radish, as well as cabbage seedlings, love to gnaw on cruciferous fleas, which the rest of the time sit on weeds such as colza and wait for goodies.

Radish Pest Control Methods

cruciferous flea

KakProsto.ru

Agrotechnics for growing radishes

General information. Varieties of radish.

For the same reason, tansy or celandine can be planted along the perimeter of the garden;

should be applied at least once a week

A young radish will be a real find for them. Watering when planting in April is not necessary - the ground is still quite wet. You can pre-cultivate the land hot water. When re-planting radishes, watering is essential.

Almost everywhere.

Against these pests, it is recommended to use pollination with wood ash or tobacco dust. Radishes sown early can prevent damage to plants. Hot, dry weather contributes to the emergence of diseases and pests.

1. Before planting, the seeds can be held in a damp cloth so that they hatch. To protect against dry rot planting material heated for 15 ... 20 minutes in heated water (about 45 ° C). This procedure also contributes to more early appearance seedlings.​
2. Early ripe varieties (vegetation period 25 ... 30 days). Here you can select such varieties as "Dawn", "Ruby", "Rose-red with a white tip", "Camelot", "Cherry Belle", "Early Red" and others.
3. Radish is an early vegetable crop that begins to produce one of the first crops. Juicy, spicy-tasting fruits are incredibly healthy and tasty. They can be used for salads, okroshka and other dishes. Radishes are often attacked various pests, which can destroy the crop in a matter of days or seriously spoil it, making it unfit for human consumption.
4. Dealing with them is quite simple (and of course, without using pesticides that will not decompose before cleaning and with which you will “treat” your family).

Soil preparation before planting

She jumps from leaf to leaf and makes holes in the leaves.

You can also make a distracting maneuver by planting a weed loved by a flea next to a radish;

. And as an option - ground black pepper or slaked lime. ​.​ The quality of radishes is proportional to the regularity of watering. Without water, radishes are not as juicy and large, more bitter. On hot days, radishes are watered every evening, on cool days - once every two days.

The benefits of radishes Radishes have a lot of useful properties. It improves appetite and metabolism, strengthens the immune system, lowers blood cholesterol levels, removes toxins from the body, and even, according to some reports, stops growth. cancer cells. Guys - this is fiber - Dr. Aibolit for our body.

Preparing radish seeds for sowing

To prepare a working solution, add about 2 cups of fresh ash and about 50 g of laundry soap to a 10-liter bucket of water. Mix everything thoroughly. You can pick up ash on a shovel and crush it over a bed with crops. For some time, insects will limit their harmful activities.

You can sow radishes in the country from mid-March, as soon as the soil thaws to a depth of about 10 cm (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, sowing can be done much earlier). The agricultural technique of growing radishes involves sowing seeds in rows, deepening them by 1 ... 2 cm. It is not recommended to sow deeper, as there is a risk that the root crop will not tie. Optimal distance between rows is considered 8 ... 10 cm. For planting beds of 10 square meters. m will need about 15 g of radish seeds. There are about 1000 seeds in 10 g.

Optimal sowing time

Mid-season varieties (vegetation period 30 ... 40 days). Varieties "Mokhovsky", "Heat", "Icicle", "Red Giant", "Virovsky White", etc.

plant care

Most often, cruciferous fleas attack radishes, which in a short period of time make many holes in the tops. All this negatively affects the yield. Fleas have absolutely small size bodies with a pronounced metallic sheen. As a rule, insects are one-colored. The spring cabbage fly, despite its name, also spoils radishes. Females lay eggs in the soil, from which larvae 6-8 mm long gray or white flowers. The larvae move closer to the roots and begin to actively eat them. Over time, they spread to the stems. If no action is taken, the crop will be spoiled. The rapeseed bug feeds on absolutely any cruciferous plants, including radishes. Since the bugs hibernate under the foliage, they are activated immediately after warming. Females make clutches directly on the foliage. Damaged plants turn yellow and wither. The main thing is to carefully clean the garden in the fall. The fewer last year's leaves, the lower the likelihood that pests will appear in large quantities. But this, unfortunately, is not always enough. Cabbage moth, leading a nocturnal lifestyle, feeds on cabbage, radish, turnip, and also gladly absorbs plantings of turnip, watercress, horseradish and radish. The moth has the appearance of a small butterfly, the wings are brown with stripes. Cabbage moth caterpillars eat leaves in large quantities. Slugs live on cruciferous plants, especially on young ones. Pests spoil mainly the foliage of radishes. Slugs live for a long time, and they reproduce quite well, which is why it is important to process planted crops on time. Manual collection of slugs will not give the desired effect, because they can migrate from garden to garden, thereby spreading to large areas. Clickers or wireworms eat all root crops, including radishes. Since their presence is often ignored by summer residents, significant damage is noted upon harvest. In some areas, there is a huge number of pests that look like orange thin worms, somewhat reminiscent of copper wire.

Ordinary ash, which can be collected after cooking kebabs or specially burned a small bonfire of stick branches, is sprinkled in the early morning (on the dew to stick to the leaves), radish crops and the flea are retreated in a hurry.

It also gnaws on young shoots of radishes and root crops.

Postpone the planting date of the crop to an earlier time (immediately after the snow melts);

Radish pests and their control

Spraying gives good results

Transforming then into an imago, the insect eats the tops. The flea eats the tender leaves of the radish to holes, as a result of which they dry out. There, on the leaves, beetles lay yellowish eggs.

A few days after germination, the radish is thinned out. The thickening of crops is one of the reasons for the shooting of radishes. Do not regret - pull through!​

Radishes can be sown at several times with an interval of 10-15 days.

When growing radishes, it is best to use drip irrigation systems, as abundant watering after treatment against pests will wash off the protective composition.

To get friendly and strong seedlings, the soil must first be watered. When the first true leaves appear, it is necessary to thin out the plants. The distance between the shoots should be 2-3 cm. Experienced gardeners they suggest that it is better to plant one seed at a time, since when thinning, the root of the plant left behind can be damaged, after which it develops worse and can go into the arrow, which will significantly affect the yield.

Late-ripening varieties (vegetation period of more than 40 days). This group includes varieties "Dungansky", "Zenith", Rampoush.

Harvest and storage

C cabbage flea can be fought with ash. Sprinkle some ash on the leaves and the ground. Carry out the processing several times a week until the pests completely disappear. In gardening stores, complex preparations are presented in a wide range. Usually they are available in the form of tablets or ampoules, which should be diluted in water. The method of application is indicated in detail on the package - it is impossible to make the solution more concentrated, otherwise the radish may die. Do not forget to periodically paint greenhouses, the elements of which are made of wood. Otherwise, not only pests may appear, but also the development of many diseases in radishes.

Small cruciferous fleas gnaw on the leaves of radishes and all cruciferous plants, they are especially rampant in dry weather. The most effective method of dealing with them is to cover plants, especially young ones, with covering material, I use lutrasil. Less effective is the use of a soap solution with ash, pepper. You can plant cilantro, garlic next to radish crops, but the most effective is the use of covering material.

Slugs

ParnikiTeplicy.com

Growing radishes | The village is my home...

Choose moistened places for sowing radishes.​​. But they are already used when a flea is found on a culture. You can dilute a bottle of vinegar (or 2 tablespoons of essence) in a bucket of water, or prepare a decoction from tomato tops, collected as a result of pinching the bushes. Laundry soap (0.5 pieces) is also rubbed here. Usually they fight with a cruciferous flea with the help of purchased chemicals (Aktellik, Bankol, Karate, etc.). But since they fertilize and feed radishes in the spring, it is extremely rare. They do not bring fresh manure, ash under it, potash fertilizers. They prepare a garden bed in the fall or choose especially fertile plots of land after the crops under which manure was applied. If you want to fertilize, read the fertilizer instructions. open ground held from 15 April. It is possible a week earlier, but under a film on the frame, so that the radish does not go into the arrow from prolonged low temperatures.

Radishes are harvested as they ripen in required quantities. As a rule, freshly harvested radishes are immediately eaten. If you water the radishes in the evening and collect them in the morning, do not remove the roots, and cut the tops at a distance of 2-4 cm from the fruit, then it can be successfully stored for up to 7-8 days. Radishes must be placed in a cool room, it is best to store in the refrigerator.

When to plant radishes?

If the site, during the cultivation of radishes, is hot and sunny weather, the crop should be watered in the morning and evening.

In order for the seeds to hatch faster, they must be held in a damp cloth.

The radish is one of the earliest and most beloved vegetables. In the spring it opens the supply season human body fresh vitamins. Early maturing, tasty, very juicy, it is used for salads and appetizers. The radish contains a high content of vitamin C, trace elements magnesium, calcium, sulfur, useful to people, and the presence of aromatic mustard oils will enrich the taste of any dish.​

How to plant radishes

Radishes are one of the healthiest vegetables. Always, when I plant it, after it grows on the leaves there are some punctures, I even thought it was such a peculiar type of tops. But I read that no, these are cruciferous insects, the so-called sawfly beetles love to eat radishes so much. We used to dig deep in the spring and it helped, and the ash helps get rid of pests. Radish must be constantly weeded from weeds. For those who do not want to "bother" with finding out relationships with pests, you can use the method of growing crops in greenhouses. But the ubiquitous insect is able to get there.

Folk craftsmen came up with

radish refers to an early crop, chemical substances should not be applied

With early sowing, the radish has time to get stronger before the mass appearance of the cruciferous flea, so it will be possible to get by with deterrent measures (pepper, mustard, ash).

radish care

The second planting is carried out after the appearance of the first true leaf in the plants of the first planting - from April 25. Inveterate lovers can plant radishes a couple more times in May and in the first half of August. Usually they don’t do this, since cucumbers, turnips, radishes, various varieties of cabbage come to replace radishes.

If you remove the tops and root from a freshly harvested radish, then it can be stored for only 5-6 hours, as it will quickly wither.

Care during the growth of radishes is traditional: weeding, watering, periodic loosening. In dry weather, it is better to water twice a day, in the evening and in the morning, this contributes to the production of juicy and dense root crops. With a lack of moisture, the fruits are rough, bitter, with voids inside. Radishes especially need watering after the appearance of a true leaf, when the root crop is being formed. But you should not get too carried away with watering either, because excess moisture leads to cracking of the fruit.

Radish pests

Radishes grow well in loose, light soils with plenty of moisture. When grown in clayey and dense soils, the roots are hard and small, often have a clumsy shape.

Radish varieties: 1 - "French", 2 - "Vera" (round radish), 3 - "white radish".

There are pests called cruciferous fleas. They love to eat radish leaves. They gnaw little holes. You can fight these pests with chemistry. Suitable for this - fufanon, kemifos.

We harvest

Then you need to take 500 grams of wood ash, dilute it in 10 liters of water, add 50 grams of grated laundry soap, mix well and spray the plant, preferably during the day, once a week.

They are prickly, and all on holes. Who gnaws and how to kill him?

derevnyavolska.ru

How to rid a radish of a flea pest

original traps (So ​​that the vegetable is not saturated with them). But great solution problems can become folk remedies. But the middle and late plantings will have to be saved from the cruciferous flea. Of all the cruciferous plants in the garden, this amazing flea first eats watercress, then turnips, and then radishes, cabbages and radishes. It is not worth treating radishes with poisons - too soon it will need to be eaten. You can use folk methods - pollinate with tobacco dust mixed with lime or ash. Do you know more ways to environmentally friendly fight against the cruciferous flea - write.

Seeds are best bought in reliable stores that have existed for more than one year. Bad small seeds do not give a good harvest. No matter how hard you try

By adhering to the above rules, you can get an excellent harvest. which will delight you and your loved ones. Growing radishes in a greenhouse consists in observing optimal temperature conditions and maintaining air and soil humidity. Until the first shoots appear, the temperature is maintained at + 16 ... 18 ° С. After receiving mass seedlings, it is lowered for 3-4 days to 6-8 ° C, using ventilation so that the sprouts do not stretch. In the future, in cool weather, they withstand a temperature of + 12 ... 15 ° C, at night 8 ... 10 ° C, in sunny weather + 18 ... 20 ° C. To get good harvest radish in the country, it is best if the predecessors are potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers.

Folk tricks

​Thanks to short term vegetation (growing), which is from 20 to 40 days, depending on the variety, it can be grown in the beds even before planting the main vegetable crops (late cabbage, etc.). It can also be sown as a compacting crop in the country. Radish is a very photophilous and moisture-loving plant. It tolerates low temperatures well, the seeds begin to sprout already at temperatures of + 2 ... 3 ° C, they can tolerate short frosts of -2 ... 3 ° C. Mature plants are able to withstand cold snaps up to - 4 ... 6 degrees. Optimal temperature regime in order to grow radishes, + 16 ... 18 ° C.

• In autumn, you need to remove the foliage and dig up the garden. It is under the foliage and in upper layers soil, this infection lays its larvae. There are a lot of insects who want such a delicacy as a radish. It is only for humans that radish leaves seem prickly, in fact they are very juicy and tasty, especially young ones. it is young leaves that the cruciferous flea loves to eat, one of the most important pests that can destroy the entire future harvest. Also, caterpillars do not disdain leaves of radish. These can be cabbage caterpillars, whites, cabbage scoops or cabbage moths, which usually eat the leaf from its inside. Beetles can also be pests for radishes. They love foliage such as weevil, leaf beetles and cruciferous bugs. The best remedy The fight against these pests is the treatment of radishes with wood ash or tobacco dust.
• The two most vicious radish pests that feed mainly on leaves are the cruciferous bug and the rapeseed sawfly.​​of various configurations. The simplest of them is a canopy over the garden. The underside of the tent is smeared with any sticky compound (for example, tar). In a few days it will be already possible to harvest insects. How to get rid of cruciferous flea on radishes without using chemicals? Here are our tips for you:
• Kivsyak radish plantings are very cool. Many years of experience in dealing with this centipede has not yet given positive results without the use of pesticides. So, it’s better to choose a piece of land for planting radishes that is not inhabited by nodule. Grow radishes
• Hello friends! What do you think, besides potatoes, Peter I brought to Russia? Of course, radishes. This early ripening vegetable the emperor liked it for a reason ... Today, the most common diseases of radish are slimy bacteriosis, phomosis, downy mildew, white and gray rot, dry (heart rot), powdery mildew, black leg, common mosaic, fusarium, which can almost completely destroy the entire harvest. When growing radishes in a greenhouse, care must be taken to ensure that the beds where it is planned to be planted have enough nutrients for vegetation

Preventive remedies

• The best period for growing radishes is considered to be a time with a day length of 10 ... 12 hours.
• You can do without spraying. To do this, you need to plant radishes in the garden where onions, garlic, or peas were planted last year. You should not plant a radish on a bed on which cabbage grew or also a radish. You can form ash or tobacco dust. There are pests that gnaw on radish leaves, despite the fact that radish leaves seem prickly to us. Nevertheless, the foliage is juicy and nutritious, and this is all that is needed for the larvae of the rapeseed sawfly. The first one sucks the juice from the leaves, the leaf tissues die off at the puncture site and holes of various, often irregular shapes appear.
• To make it easier to deal with the cruciferous fly, you can secure the beds in advance from its invasion:
• The fight against a flea should begin almost immediately, as the radish was sown in the garden
• For longer storage, it is better to cut off the radish tops immediately, and put the root crops in a bag and put them in the refrigerator. The tops literally suck all the juices out of the radish and it instantly becomes lethargic.
• - they go to the arrow.

radish

vreditel.net

Who nibbles on radish leaves?

The radish belongs to cruciferous plants, so pests can damage it.

Captain obvious

. To do this, it is recommended in the autumn period (during the digging of the soil before winter) to make 400 ... 500 kg of humus per hundred square meters and complex mineral fertilizers: potassium and phosphorus - 0.6 ... 0.9 d / w (active ingredient) per hundred square meters, 3 ... 4.5 kg of superphosphate, 1.2 ... 1.8 kg of potassium sulfate or 2.4 ... 3.6 kg of potassium magnesia . V spring period carry out loosening and harrowing of beds to reduce moisture loss. After a few days, it is recommended to cultivate to a depth of 3 ... 5 cm. When cultivating, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 0.8 ... 1.1 kg / w per hundred square meters (approximately 2.3 ...

In order for this root crop to be regularly on your table, it is necessary to produce correct selection varieties. In addition, you should sow the seeds in several stages, if your country cottage area. Such agricultural technology will allow you to grow more than one good crop during the entire warm season in your country house.

In fact, radishes do not have special thorns on the leaves.

The rapeseed sawfly lives in Russia already long years and feeds on redmski leaves, cabbage. The larvae are very voracious in sawflies. First of all, dig the soil to the depth of the entire shovel as soon as the soil thaws.​

Aleso

The second, or rather its larva, gnaws stupidly, and indiscriminately - it can start from the edge of the sheet, or maybe from the middle. Radishes should be planted next to tomatoes -. The soil is sprinkled with a "pillow" of wood ash and tobacco dust. This will not only protect the radish, but also fertilize the soil.

Good luck with your first harvest! Choose for radishes fertile soils, on which cabbage, radish, radish and other cruciferous plants (in a new way - cabbage) were not planted in the previous year. In April, May - sunny places, in the rest of the months - places with shading.​

All gardeners want to get as many healthy fruits as possible from radish ridges with juicy tasty pulp, full of vitamins and minerals.

But not everyone manages to grow a good crop due to diseases and other reasons: sometimes radish pests get in the way, and methods of dealing with them do not always help. Due to insects not detected in time, vegetable growers may be left without radish fruits, but more often they still manage to be defeated with the help of insecticides.

In any climate zone, insects abound that can harm radishes and other cruciferous vegetables. Before you learn how to treat radishes from pests, consider the main winged and crawling insects - the enemies of the vegetable.

• cabbage moth. This is a small insect of a brown-gray color, whose wings are decorated with a dark fringe. It is not the moth that causes harm to the radish, but its larvae, which feed on the juice and tissues of plants.
• cabbage white. This white butterfly with a black border around the edge of the wings is known even to children. She lays her eggs in radish plantings. Caterpillars hatched from eggs actively eat the lower part of the leaves, moving from rosette to rosette.
• Garden and cabbage scoop. Sero - brown butterflies, making masonry on radishes. The larvae destroy the leaves, turning them into transparent skeletons. Plants attacked by a pest stop developing.
• cabbage fly. It happens in spring and summer (the last fly has larger dimensions). An ash-colored fly that produces egg clutches on vegetable plantings, from which white worms hatch that infect the roots. The radish becomes unusable in 2-3 days.

• cruciferous flea. The most dangerous enemy of this culture, eating the leaves of young plants: after its invasion, the tops resemble a sieve.
• wireworm. The beetle larva is a nutcracker capable of destroying the entire plant, including the roots.

As you can see, the radish has a lot of enemies who want to feast on tender foliage and roots, reducing all the efforts of gardeners to nothing.

How to process radishes in the garden from pests

Such an extensive list of harmful insects that can destroy the crop is alarming. However, many insecticides have been developed against pests that can easily cope with misfortune: their list is no less.

Biological and chemical preparations against radish pests

Entobacterin

It is used in liquid and dry form: dissolve the product in water according to the instructions and spray the plantings, or spray the drug in powder.

Entobakterin - universal biological agent from different insects, especially well destroys the cabbage moth and its offspring.

Bitoxibacillin

Dilute 50-100 g of powder in 10 liters of water, add 40 ml of liquid soap and water the radishes over the leaves in dry weather.

biological preparation, safe for bees and pets, does an excellent job with a variety of harmful insects.

Actellik

We dissolve 20 ml in a ten-liter bucket of water and spray the plantings (this solution is enough for 10 m²).

Good remedy for cabbage fly and other winged enemies of the radish.

Zemlin and Provotoks

They are used according to the instructions against the wireworm and other pests that live in the soil: cabbage fly larvae, ants and others.

Bazudin

We fill three-quarters of a liter container with sand, mix with 30 g of the drug and add it to the soil when planting (the composition is enough for 20 m²).

How to treat radishes from wireworm pests? Just Bazudin: he also cracks down on bears, cabbage fly larvae, weevils, etc.

Initiative

30 g of the drug is enough to treat 15 m² Prepare a mixture of ¾ l of sand and 30 g of the product and scatter it on the ground around the seedlings.

The initiative destroys not only wireworms, but also those pests of radishes, the methods of combating which are beyond the power of some drugs: caterpillars scoops and whites, cruciferous flea, larvae of any flies.

Aktara

Universal insect repellent, used at the rate of 5 liters per hundred square meters. Kills aphids and caterpillars hatched from eggs of butterflies and moths. Dangerous for bees.

Aktofit also copes well with pests. A biological preparation, dissolved in water according to the instructions on the package, destroys aphids, cutworms, cabbage whites and many other insects that feed on cruciferous plants.

Folk remedies for radish enemies

How else can you treat radishes from pests? Folk remedies, especially if early varieties are planted, from which nitrates from chemicals do not have time to leave.

Ash and soap

We dissolve 50 g of laundry soap and 2 cups of wood ash in 10 liters of water, and water the radish on a fine, but not hot day.

The tool helps with the invasion of many harmful insects, especially the cruciferous flea.

Ash and tobacco

Regularly pollinating plantings after watering or rain with tobacco dust or ash, it is easy to get rid of caterpillars and other pests of vegetables.

Pepper and mustard

Mix in 10 liters of water 1 tsp. powder of any hot pepper, 2 tbsp. salt and 2 tbsp. dry mustard. We water the plantings to destroy the caterpillars of the cabbage whitefish, moths and scoops.

If, after treating the beds with folk insecticides, it rained, we repeat watering or pollination, otherwise the insects will destroy the plantings.

Now it’s clear what radish pests are and how to deal with them - folk and industrial. Remember that for early varieties of radish, only folk remedies or biological products that do not harm human and animal health can be used.

Almost all gardeners grow radishes on personal plots. It belongs to precocious crops, so it rarely suffers from diseases and pests, especially with proper care. But he still does not have absolute protection. If the gardener does not pay at least minimal attention to plantings, it is likely that fungal diseases or pest attacks will develop. So you need to know characteristic symptoms be able to identify the problem and know how to deal with it. At an early stage, as a rule, folk remedies are enough; in other cases, you will have to use "heavy artillery" in the form of chemicals.

General measures to prevent the development of diseases and attacks of radish pests

A short ripening period is one of the advantages of radishes. Many pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, eggs and insect larvae simply do not have time to go through the incubation period to cause significant damage to plantings. But this does not mean that the culture, in principle, cannot suffer from diseases and pests.

To avoid negative consequences in the form of crop loss, it is advisable to regularly pay attention to preventive measures. There is nothing difficult in them, they will take quite a bit of time. But such events, coupled with competent agricultural technology, make it almost guaranteed to protect plantings from unwanted "guests".

There is nothing complicated in growing radishes, but this crop is not immune from disease and pest attacks.

A careful inspection of the beds at least once every 4-5 days helps to detect the problem in time. In the early stages of infection, as a rule, in order to cope with it, there are enough folk remedies that are harmless to human health and environment. Chemicals, especially those that are not related to preparations of biological origin, are very undesirable for processing radishes. The culture is early, harmful substances accumulate in root crops.

Plants with good immunity get sick much less often than those in which it is weakened. Soaking the seeds before planting in a solution of any biostimulant has a positive effect on it. A similar effect is given by both store-bought drugs (Epin, potassium humate, Emistim-M) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). But an excess of nitrogen in the soil provides the opposite result, weakening the plants. This macronutrient has one more thing in large doses. negative consequence- radish begins to actively form leaves to the detriment of root crops. Strengthen the immune system potassium and phosphorus. Their natural source is wood ash.

To prevent fungal diseases, seeds are treated for 15–20 minutes before planting in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin. The most common drugs are Strobi, Thiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Bayleton.

Soaking seeds in a fungicide solution is an effective prevention of fungal diseases

Necessary condition for obtaining a bountiful harvest on personal plot- crop rotation. Radishes cannot be planted for 3–4 years where other crops from the Cruciferous family (all types of cabbage, turnip, radish, rutabaga, turnip, daikon) have grown before. In general, they are placed as far apart as possible. They pull the same nutrients from the soil, suffer from similar diseases. Many weeds used by pathogens as a "transshipment base" also belong to this family. Therefore, do not forget about regular weeding.

Cabbage, like other Cruciferous, is a bad predecessor and neighbor for radishes

Radish seeds are planted as rarely as possible. With dense plantings, diseases spread much faster. Plants are not ventilated, which is also harmful to them. Proper watering is also important. Avoid droplets on leaves and stems.

Since autumn, the bed has been dug up or at least deeply loosened. This helps to destroy fungal spores, eggs and larvae of pests wintering in the soil. All plant debris is collected and burned. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure as top dressing. It is an excellent nutrient medium for them, besides, it helps to keep the heat necessary in frosts.

Digging up the beds in the fall helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of many pests that were going to winter in the soil.

Diseases typical of the culture

There are no specific diseases in radishes. Most often, it is affected by the most common fungal, bacterial or viral diseases that do not bypass any horticultural crops in general or plants from the Cruciferous family.

Belle cabbage crops (white rust)

All Brassicas suffer from the disease to one degree or another, but radishes, horseradish and turnips are affected much more often than cabbages. It is most dangerous for young plants. Optimum temperature for the development of the fungus - about 15 ° C. Another risk factor is cool rainy weather or sudden temperature changes that provoke fogs and / or heavy dew.

Radishes suffer from white rust more often than other Brassicas.

Light green spots appear on the front side of the leaf. The tissues in these places thicken, gradually turn brown and die. On the wrong side, pustules similar to abscesses form. The leaf around them swells. When they “break through”, a whitish, oily, shiny coating becomes visible, as if flakes of peeling paint. On root crops, if they have time to ripen, outgrowths appear, resembling those that are characteristic of keel. Radish can go into color, the stem begins to branch intensively, turning into something similar to deer antlers. If nothing is done, it dries up and dies.

In case of severe damage, fungicides of biological origin are used - Ridomil-Gold, Ditan-M, Folicur. Folk remedies are effective in the early stages of the development of the disease and for prevention. This, for example, is a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda ash or baking soda, colloidal sulfur (10–15 g per 10 l). In order for the solution to “stick” better to the treated plants, a little liquid soap or soap chips (3–5 ml or 10–15 g) are added to it. Preventive treatments are carried out every 7-10 days (or more often if it rains constantly). To combat the disease, radishes are sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.

Potassium permanganate is one of the most common disinfectants.

quila

A specific disease, very dangerous for all Cruciferous. The gardener may lose at least half of the entire crop. Often it disappears completely. The causative agent of the fungus is distinguished by its rare viability. In those beds where the club has proved itself, potentially susceptible crops are not planted for 8-10 years. You can reduce this period to 4–5 years by placing tomatoes, potatoes, beets or any legumes there.

Kila is a disease that affects only plants from the cruciferous family.

On the aerial part of the plant, the keel does not appear in any way. During the incubation period (20-30 days), growths form on the roots and root crops different sizes spherical or fusiform. Gradually they turn brown and rot. The stem turns yellow, the leaves dry and fall down, as the plant does not receive enough water and nutrients.

Factors favoring the development of clubroot are too frequent and / or abundant watering, unsuitable heavy soil in which moisture stagnates for a long time, acidification of the substrate, high temperature (from 25 ° C). But it is also impossible to completely forget about watering - the keel causes the greatest damage during a long drought. The disease spreads through infected seeds, soil, manure, it is spread by worms that live in the soil. It affects not only the "cultural" Cruciferous, but also wild (shepherd's purse, colza).

Proper watering of radishes helps to somewhat reduce the damage caused to the culture of clubroot.

Practice shows that radishes suffer much less from clubroot when planted early. Etching in Cumulus solution also helps to avoid infection.

There is currently no cure for clubroot. The main focus should be on preventive measures. 2-3 days before planting the seeds, the soil is loosened by embedding sifted wood ash in it, or watered with the so-called milk of lime (two glasses of slaked lime per 10 liters of water). You can also treat the bed with a solution of Carbation (40 g per 10 l) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 l).

very dangerous viral disease, capable of hitting most horticultural crops. Infected specimens are far behind in growth and development, the leaves are deformed and smaller. The front side of the leaf plate is covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots located between the veins. Depending on which particular virus has infected the plant, they can be in the form of circles, strokes, angular spots. Gradually, these tissues turn black and die. The veins also darken.

Mosaic radish - a viral disease, there are currently no means for its treatment

Via modern means it is impossible to get rid of the mosaic virus. The only way to stop its spread is to remove all affected plants from the garden and burn them as soon as possible.

The best prevention is competent care of the crop and keeping the beds clean. It is especially important to strengthen the plant's immunity by applying the fertilizers it needs in a timely manner and in the right doses. It is recommended to pickle radish seeds before planting in a solution of Rovral, Horus, Topaz. The carriers of the virus are many insects, for example, weevils, aphids, mites. Don't forget to fight them.

Etching in Rovral's solution is a good prevention, but not absolutely guaranteed protection against mosaic virus

powdery mildew

A very common disease, not a single horticultural crop is immune from it. Leaves and petioles are covered with a layer of powdery whitish or pale gray coating, resembling scattered flour. If nothing is done, it becomes denser and changes color, turning into large brown spots with black patches on the surface. The tissues affected by the fungus die off, holes form. Leaf plates are deformed. As a rule, the leaves closest to the soil are infected first.

Powdery mildew on the leaves seems like a harmless plaque that is easy to wipe off, but in fact it is a dangerous disease.

Most often, radishes are affected by powdery mildew in hot, humid weather. Another risk factor is sudden temperature changes. The fungus spreads by wind, with drops of water, by direct contact of the infected and healthy plants.The yield drops by 50% or more, and the quality of root crops also decreases.

For prevention powdery mildew, as a rule, enough folk remedies. Radishes are sprayed at least once a week with a solution of colloidal sulfur, an infusion of wood ash, sour milk or curdled milk, diluted with water, a decoction of horsetail rhizomes. If time has already been lost and the fungus has spread massively, copper-containing preparations are used - fungicides. The experience of gardeners shows that Skor, Quadris, Raek, Fundazim give the best effect in the fight against powdery mildew. Of the drugs of biological origin - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz. But some also rely on old time-tested remedies - blue vitriol, Bordeaux liquid.

Wood ash is not only a source of potassium and phosphorus, it helps to destroy spores of pathogenic fungi.

Video: how to protect plants from powdery mildew

Downy mildew (downy mildew)

The characteristic symptoms first appear on the leaves. They are covered with small angular spots with a seemingly oily surface. Gradually, their color changes from salad to straw yellow and dark brown. If the weather is wet, the underside of the sheet is covered with a continuous layer of grayish-purple bloom resembling felt. The whole process takes 10-13 days.

Peronosporosis develops quite quickly, so you should not hesitate to take action

To prevent the development of the disease, radishes during the growing season are sprayed twice with boric acid diluted in water (10–15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin, Rizoplan. From folk remedies, an infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood. Seeds are soaked in a solution of Buton, Energen, potassium humate, Fitosporin-M. To combat the disease, the same drugs are used that are recommended for the destruction of the fungus that causes powdery mildew.

Garlic is a plant that produces phytoncides that kill pathogenic fungi

Brown spots spread on the root crops, quickly covered with a layer of “fluffy” bluish-gray coating with small black “specks”. The tissues under them soften and rot, the stem and petioles become watery, the leaves lose their tone. Contributes to the development of the disease high humidity in combination with low air temperature.

Do not eat any fruits affected by gray rot

To prevent the development of gray rot, wood ash is periodically added to the soil, plants are dusted with colloidal sulfur or crushed activated carbon. They can also be sprayed with diluted water. mustard powder or iodine (respectively 50 g or 10 drops per 10 liters). A few crystals of potassium permanganate are added to the water for irrigation every 7-10 days. It is useful to surround the bed with plants that produce natural phytoncides - marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums.

Marigolds are not only beautiful, but also a very useful plant.

If gray rot is noticed on time, the plants and soil are treated with the following solution - for 10 liters of water, take a glass of sifted wood ash and crushed chalk, add 10–12 ml blue vitriol. In case of mass infection, Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair preparations are used. But this no longer guarantees success.

Vascular bacteriosis

Most often, the disease affects adult plants, seedlings are practically not affected by it. The veins on the leaves turn black, then spots of the same color blur around them. The leaf plate turns yellow, as if "crumbles". The growth of radish slows down, the petioles are deformed.

Adult radishes most often suffer from vascular bacteriosis already at the stage of root formation.

Risk factors - high humidity, heat, the presence of mechanical damage. The disease is transmitted by insects, raindrops. The bacterium lives in plant residues, unripened manure, persists in seeds from infected plants, remaining viable for 2–3 seasons. For disinfection, planting material is immersed in hot (45–50 ° C) water for 15–20 minutes immediately before planting.

To prevent infection, 10–12 days after emergence, radish seedlings are sprayed with Planriz or Trichodermin. In the early stages of infection, radish can be saved by treating it with Binoram or Fitolavin. If the disease has gone far in its development, the plants can no longer be helped.

Phytolavin is a popular drug that increases plant immunity

"Blackleg"

A fungal disease that mainly affects young shoots. Mature, mature plants have sufficient resistance. The base of the stem turns black and becomes thinner, the seedlings lie on the ground under their own weight. The leaves turn yellow, the plant dries up. The disease develops quite quickly, as a rule, the affected plants can no longer be helped. But it is quite realistic to prevent the appearance of a “black leg”.

The “black leg” can deprive the gardener of the radish crop already at the seedling stage

The most important preventive measure is proper watering. The fungus also loves stale air (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, it must be regularly ventilated), heat and an acidified substrate. Seeds are sown on time, not earlier. Low temperature and light deficiency adversely affect plant immunity.

Seeds must undergo preplant preparation. They are soaked in an infusion of garlic gruel, a dark raspberry solution of potassium permanganate. The soil in the garden 3-4 days before planting the radish is shed with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and immediately after the procedure, it is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. To the bases of the stems of the seedlings that have appeared, crushed charcoal or chalk, the plants themselves are dusted with sifted wood ash. Water for irrigation is periodically replaced with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Baktofit, reducing its concentration by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Folk remedies - infusion onion peel or marigold greens.

Infusion of onion peel - an effective means of preventing the "black leg"

Having discovered that several plants have become infected, they sharply reduce watering to the required minimum, allowing the soil to dry well. The soil is loosened, introducing granules of Trichodermin, Gliocladin, Barrier in the process.

Video: methods of dealing with the "black leg"

Common pests affecting radishes

There are a lot of pests that can cause significant damage to radishes. These are insects that affect only Cruciferous plants, and "omnivores" that attack most other garden crops.

Small (up to 0.3 cm in diameter) black bugs, shimmering golden in the sun, turn radish leaves into a sieve for very a short time. They have very good jumping ability, due to which they cover significant distances relatively quickly. The pest waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, under the fallen leaves. The females of the cruciferous flea lay their eggs on the leaves, the larvae hatching from them eat the roots of plants. Insects do not like heat and high humidity, in such weather their activity is sharply reduced.

In the heat, especially if it often rains, the activity of the cruciferous flea is sharply reduced.

In order to scare away the cruciferous flea from the beds, the soil where the radish shoots appeared is sprinkled with a mixture of sifted ash with chopped dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper, and mustard powder. You can simply prevent the pest from entering the garden if you tighten it with any air-permeable white covering material. During the growing season, radishes are treated every 5–7 days with an infusion of dandelion leaves, tomato or potato tops, diluted in water with vinegar (25–30 ml of essence per 10 l). Around the perimeter, the beds are surrounded by a naphthalene barrier.

The cruciferous flea can't stand the smell of vinegar

In the event of a mass invasion, chemicals are used. The best way Decis, Sherpa, Aktara, Lightning manifest themselves. An alternative is flea shampoo for pets (40–50 ml per 10 liters). You can also catch bugs manually by building something like a flag. A piece of cloth is attached to a stick, smeared with something sticky and passed over the tops of the radish.

Butterfly caterpillars

Females lay eggs on leaves, the first generation of larvae hatches at the end of June, the second - in September. Striped greenish-yellow caterpillars are able to devour the plant in a few days, leaving only petioles from the radish leaves.

There is hardly a gardener who has never seen a white butterfly, also known as cabbage.

When the first butterflies appear in the garden, in order to prevent them from laying eggs, the soil and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a sharp characteristic odor (wormwood, tomato tops, rosemary, basil, sage). Of the chemicals, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide are used for the same purpose. You can also tighten the bed with a fine mesh, add a few drops to the water for irrigation essential oil lavender or any citrus. Traps are hung next to it - cut plastic bottles filled with sugar syrup, honey or jam diluted with water. A similar effect is given by sticky tape for catching flies.

White caterpillars are able to devour a plant in a matter of days.

Experienced gardeners are advised to “deceive” butterflies by scattering pieces around the garden. eggshell. Their insects are mistaken for "relatives" and fly on, being sure that "the place is already taken."

Caterpillars are destroyed with the help of Kinmiks, Sumi-Alpha, Aktellik. You can make them leave the garden by powdering the soil with wood ash mixed with any spice or spice - mustard, cinnamon, saffron, ginger.

spring cabbage fly

It is capable of causing very serious harm to radish plantings. The peak of its activity falls on the second half of May and the beginning of June (you can focus on the beginning of flowering of lilac and bird cherry). Just at this time, gardeners are actively planting crops. Females lay their eggs in the upper layers of the soil, the larvae penetrate the roots and eat them from the inside, severely damaging the emerging root crops, then go into the petioles. The plant fades, the leaves acquire an unnatural bluish tint.

Adults of the cabbage fly do not cause harm to plants, but this does not mean that they do not need to be fought.

In order to scare away the cabbage fly, the garden bed is sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust with camphor and powdered dry bay leaf 3-5 days after the emergence of shoots. It is recommended to plant marigolds, parsley, celery, coriander along the perimeter and between rows. Materials with a rather rough texture are used as mulch - wood shavings, sawdust. Also applicable are all measures to scare away whitefly butterflies.

Cabbage fly larvae penetrate the plant tissues through the roots.

In the event of a massive invasion of caterpillars, chemicals are used. Karate, Antio, Iskra-Bio, Rovikurt proved themselves in the best way. They still can't take ammonia and vinegar. 5 ml is enough for 10 liters of water.

It is very difficult not to notice a pest on a radish. Its red-black striped and mottled color contrasts very effectively with the bright green leaves. The females lay their eggs on the leaves; the hatched individuals overwinter in fallen leaves and other plant debris. They come out of hibernation in the second half of April or early May, the period of their activity lasts until August. Radishes receive maximum damage in hot, dry weather. The bugs feed on plant sap. Where mechanical damage was caused by them, “wounds” remain, gradually turning into areas of dead tissue with a yellowish border.

It is very difficult not to notice the cruciferous bug on the plant

The experience of gardeners proves that the pest does not tolerate the smell of tansy. It is useful to plant this plant along the perimeter of the beds with radishes or periodically spray it with an infusion of greens. A good effect of dates is tampons moistened with kerosene or turpentine and laid out in the aisles.

A tansy planted nearby will effectively protect a radish bed from cruciferous mites

Having found the first pests on the plant, you can simply collect them manually. To make them leave, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusions of chamomile, pharmacy, onion peel. The most effective chemicals are Fosbecid, Belofos, Aktara.

An inconspicuous grayish-brown butterfly does no harm to plants. What can not be said about her larvae. Yellowish caterpillars, gradually changing color to light green, eat out longitudinal tunnels in leaf tissues. Then they come to the surface and continue to feed on them. Affected leaf blades turn pale and dry. From hibernation, insects wake up as soon as the air warms up to 10ºС, their activity does not stop until October-November. The maximum damage to radishes is caused in the heat with a long absence of precipitation.

The cabbage moth is a very nondescript butterfly

Folk remedies in the fight against pests do not give a special effect. The maximum that they can do is to slightly slow down the activity of the caterpillars. Recommend, for example, an infusion of dried lavender or the peel of any citrus. Therefore, in order to destroy them, you will have to resort to chemicals - Ambush, Nurell-D, Talcord. Adult butterflies are repelled using the methods recommended for controlling the whitefish.

Folk remedies in the fight against cabbage moth larvae are ineffective

For some reason, they also have a special love for yellow. This can be exploited by making traps out of pieces of cardboard or plywood of the appropriate shade smeared with something sticky and takes a long time to dry.

Butterfly dirty yellow with blurry brown spots and strokes on the wings. It leads a nocturnal lifestyle, so it is quite difficult to notice its appearance in time. Its caterpillars, as it were, scrape off the top layer of tissues from the leaves, leaving "recesses" - the gates for all kinds of infections and other pests. Particularly well characteristic damage is visible on the wrong side of the sheet.

It is problematic to notice the appearance of a cabbage moth - it is active mainly at night

Adults are killed with traps. A light source is placed in a cut plastic bottle, smearing its walls with something sticky. You can also use Bitoxibacillin, Dendrobacillin. Against caterpillars, the best effect is given by drugs Anometrin, Ripcord, Sumicidin, Gomelin. If you managed to notice their appearance on time, folk remedies help well, but they do not have any effect. negative impact on moth eggs. Radishes and soil in the garden are recommended to be treated with infusion of sifted wood ash, tomato tops.

Cabbage moth caterpillars can be driven out of the garden with the help of folk remedies, but the eggs will not suffer from this in any way

The caterpillar of the rapeseed sawfly is greenish-gray or olive in color with brown longitudinal stripes and a slightly lighter belly. An adult is extremely small - the body length does not exceed 6–8 mm, the body and limbs are of a bright saffron shade, the head is black, as if varnished. The pest eats the leaves almost completely, leaving only the petioles. Radish dries and dies, roots do not form. A gardener doing nothing can lose 80-95% of the entire crop.

The rapeseed sawfly, as the name suggests, has a special affinity for rapeseed, but does not disdain radishes either.

For prevention, radish seeds are soaked for 10-15 minutes before planting in Karate or Aktellik solution. Adults are scared away from landings with the help of Bitoxibacillin. From folk remedies for the treatment of plants and soil, you can use infusions of chamomile, pine needles, tansy, aconite (the latter is very poisonous). Caterpillars are effectively destroyed by Mospilan, Kinmiks, Arrivo, Fury. If there are still few of them, you can spray the plantings with soda ash or baking soda diluted in water, mustard powder (40–50 g per 10 l).

Many common general insecticides are used to control rapeseed sawfly larvae.

The bug looks pretty nice - lacquer-black, in the sun it casts blue-green (this is why it owes its nickname "glitter" or "glitter"). He waits the winter in the upper layers of the soil, as soon as the air warms up to 10–12ºС, he wakes up and goes outside. As a rule, it causes the greatest damage to rapeseed (hence the name), eating away flower buds from the inside, but does not disdain other Cruciferous plants (even wild ones), in particular, radishes. Yield losses range from 20 to 70%. It depends on how purposefully the gardener fights the pest. The peak of its activity lasts from the second half of May to the end of June.

The rapeseed flower beetle reaches its peak of activity in late spring or early summer

Folk remedies in this case do not give any effect at all. Therefore, having found the first individuals on the plants, any insecticides from the group of pyrethroids are used. The most popular of them are Karate, Zeon, Kinmiks, Fastak. You can try to "distract" him from the radish by planting a little rapeseed or colza nearby.

Literally 2–3 rapeseed bushes planted in the garden can distract the rapeseed beetle from more important crops for the gardener

Slugs

Shellless greyish-beige molluscs that feed on root vegetables and radish greens. They can completely destroy young shoots. Adult specimens are eaten big holes in leaf tissues, through "tunnels" are made in root crops. A sticky trace remains on the surface, shining silvery in the sun. Slugs do not like heat and dry air, so they prefer to hide during the day (for example, under stones, boards, leaves), leading a predominantly nocturnal lifestyle.

Radishes affected by slugs sharply lose their keeping quality and presentability

Getting rid of slugs is quite difficult. It is much easier to prevent their appearance in the garden. For this, several traps are built - deep containers dug into the soil, about half filled with chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, fermented compote or jam. The bases of root crops are surrounded by a "barrier" of wood ash, crushed chalk, sand, needles, ground nut or egg shells. Around the beds and in the aisles, any spicy aromatic greens and other plants with a sharp aroma are planted. There you can spread fresh leaves nettle or wormwood.

Slugs do not have even minimal protection, so the needles serve as an insurmountable barrier for them.

Slugs have natural enemies - birds, frogs, hedgehogs. Bring them on own site it's not that hard. You can, for example, build a birdhouse or a small pond, periodically put out plates of milk, and so on.

Having found several individuals, the radish and the soil in the garden are sprayed with an infusion of chili pepper pods or mustard powder diluted in water. There are, although extremely rare, cases of mass invasion of slugs. Then there is no need for chemicals. WITH the best side the drugs Meta, Thunderstorm, Slug Eater have proven themselves.

Video: ways to deal with slugs

Aphid

An extremely "omnivorous" pest that does not disdain the vast majority of horticultural crops. Radishes are no exception. Aphid - a small insect of greenish-yellow, pale salad or black-brown. She feeds on plant sap, attacking it with whole colonies. Many insects stick to the underside of the leaves, especially young ones. The affected areas of the tissues become discolored, in the light they look like small translucent beige dots. The leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry.

Aphids affect the vast majority of horticultural crops

Aphids live in stable symbiosis with ants. It is impossible to get it out of the garden plot if you do not at the same time take care of the fight against these insects too.

It is impossible to remove aphids from the garden plot without first getting rid of ants

Aphids do not like strong strong odors. So good neighbors for radish will be spices, onion, garlic, fennel, marigold, calendula, lavender. Many of them are good honey plants that attract attention. natural enemy aphids - ladybugs. From their greenery, infusions are prepared, which are sprayed on plants and soil. Other suitable raw materials - orange peels, needles, dry tobacco leaves, mustard powder.

There are plants, on the contrary, that attract aphids. These are, for example, nasturtiums, petunias, viburnum, linden, bird cherry.

Having found the first individuals, the radish is sprayed with foam of household, green potash or tar soap. After about half an hour, it will need to be washed off clean water. Then apply the same infusions that were used for prevention, reducing the intervals between treatments from 8-10 days to 6-8 hours.

In the event of a mass invasion of aphids, any insecticides of general action are used. The most popular drugs are Inta-Vir, Confidor-Maxi, Iskra-Bio, Admiral, Tanrek.

Video: how to deal with aphids in the garden

The beetle affects plantings of Cruciferous plants, including radishes, in most of Russia, with the exception of the Far East and Eastern Siberia. His coloration is very interesting - a bottle-green body with dark brown paws. The elytra are as if embossed, eight dents resembling dots are clearly visible on the head. Beetles begin to show activity in early June.

Babanukha is also known by the nickname "horseradish leaf beetle"

The pest gradually eats the leaf plate, "scraping off" the layers of tissue. The leaves become thinner, acquire an unnatural rusty hue, become as if “rotten”. Through holes with torn edges gradually appear. Females lay their eggs in cracks in the affected tissues, the larvae hibernate in the soil.

For prevention, the soil in the garden is sprinkled with a mixture of ash with mustard powder and ground hot pepper. The radish itself is sprayed with vinegar diluted with water (15-20 ml of essence per 10 liters of water). Other popular folk remedies are an infusion of tomato tops, chamomile, yarrow.

Cut off stepsons of tomatoes can be used to make an infusion that repels many pests.

On plants, beetles are very conspicuous, so you can simply collect them by hand. But it takes a long time. It is much faster to shake them off on an oilcloth or newspaper spread on the bed. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning when they are not particularly active. Of the insecticides, Sherpa, Angio, Fury, Aktara are the most effective.

Radishes are one of the easiest crops to grow. Caring for her, in essence, comes down to necessary minimum. The vegetable rarely suffers from diseases and pests, but nevertheless it is not completely immune from this. To avoid losing a significant part or all of the crop, you need to regularly inspect the plantings for suspicious symptoms. And if any are identified, use the recommended folk remedies or chemicals. The best thing is not to forget about preventive measures. As a rule, they are quite enough to avoid infection.