Typical heating distribution schemes in a private house: a complete classification of device options. How to make heating in a private house - a detailed guide

Do-it-yourself heating of a private house

If you seriously approached the question of how to make heating in a private house, start by deciding whether the entire dwelling will be heated, or the emphasis is on separate rooms - this will help to avoid unnecessary costs in the selection of equipment.

The process of preparation and conduct of work consists of the following stages:

• drawing up a drawing and calculation of power;
• selection of quality equipment;
• preparing a place for the location of the heating system;
• heating installation;
• equipment connection.

DIY home heating system

Before proceeding with the organization of heating, it is necessary to draw up a scheme for laying communications. To do this, you have to choose which system to install: water, steam, electric or open flame. Her choice depends on financial capabilities, personal tastes and the appropriateness of installing indoors. The scheme must take into account all elements of the heating system. Also, at the design stage, you need to calculate the power.

Heating systems country houses and cottages differ in the type of energy used, coolant, installation method, as well as a set of components.

Despite the difference in operational characteristics, the principle of operation of the majority consists of the following steps:

1. The boiler is heated: water, steam, antifreeze or oil.
2. The coolant diverges through the pipes leading to the radiators.
3. When moving through pipes, the heated substance gives off heat to the radiator and heat exchanger that are installed in the boiler or manifold, due to this, water is heated.
4. Then it returns to the boiler, where it again heats up and goes through the whole cycle anew.

Water, by right, is considered the best heat carrier, due to the following qualities:

• accessibility;
• high energy intensity;
• accumulative properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• security.

Despite all the advantages of water heating, including the ease of replacing the coolant (drain) to replace part of the system, there is a significant minus: in the winter, water freezes and pipes can burst. Therefore, it should be chosen in the case when a private house warms up constantly (poorly suited for cottages, where the owners rarely appear in winter).

Using antifreeze or oil as a coolant will solve the problem of freezing, but when draining, special containers will be needed and the cost of replacing the substance will be quite expensive. Therefore, water heating is preferred.

The heating of liquids is carried out in boilers for which fuel is used: firewood or tickets (eurowood) as well as coal, gas, electricity or diesel fuel.

Do-it-yourself water heating of a private house

Water heating is different high quality and simplicity of organization among other types of heating. The systems differ in the type of fuel on which they operate: liquid (diesel fuel, fuel oil); solid (coal, peat, wood); gas or electricity. It is rational to select a boiler based on the availability of a specific type of fuel.

When installing water heating, the following types of pipes are used: copper, steel, stainless steel or polymer. Since the reliability and strength of the system depends on the choice of material, we consider all options:

• Steel pipes are notable for their low cost and availability, however they are subject to corrosion. They are recommended to be joined with a thread, since during welding the joints will rust.
• Copper pipes are characterized as the most durable and reliable, but quite expensive. Connect them by soldering.
• Stainless steel pipes will be the most durable, and at the same time require large financial costs. Connect such pipes by thread.
• Polymer pipes are notable for their low price and low resistance to temperature changes. They can be soldered or threaded.

Water heating of a separate house, regardless of the fuel by which the coolant is heated, can be single-circuit and double-circuit. The first method allows you to operate the system for space heating or water heating, while the second combines both functions. Quite practical is the laying of two single-circuit systems. This method is advantageous when heating water in summer period and provides economical operation of the boiler.

Heating systems for private houses are distinguished by the type of wiring: collector, one-pipe and two-pipe.

• In a single-tube scheme, a heated fluid, moving, gradually loses temperature, as a result of which the last batteries will be unable to heat the room.
• The best way A two-pipe heating system will allow heating the cottage. This method involves connecting two pipelines to the radiator. Heated water is supplied one at a time, and chilled is discharged along the other. A branch with a heated coolant is connected in parallel to all batteries. Installation of thermostats along the hot coolant supply line in front of the radiators makes it possible to adjust the temperature. Heat losses when using this method are negligible.
• The collector system is considered the most advanced at the moment. It operates as follows: 2 pipes leave the collector for all radiators (one receives hot water, and the second serves to return the cooled down). Its use makes it possible to control the temperature in any of the rooms and allows you to carry out repairs without turning off the heating of the house completely.

Calculation of heating implies an accurate determination of the required boiler power. They calculate the heating of a private house according to the following formula:

where W is the power, kW;

k is the correction factor. In order for the boiler power indicator to be calculated, special coefficients are introduced as accurately as possible. They depend on the total temperature and weather conditions for various regions (for the Moscow Region and central Russia, it is customary to use a coefficient of 1.2-1.5; for the Urals and northern regions 1.5-2; in the south 0.7-1.2) .;

S - the area of \u200b\u200bthe cottage in square meters.

Do-it-yourself heating of a private house is sometimes organized as follows: the water, heating in the boiler, passes into a gaseous form, then it enters the heating batteries, where, becoming a condensate, transfers heat to them and, already in liquid form, returns to the boiler. There are two types of steam heating systems: outdoor and indoor. In the first, a special tank is used to accumulate condensate, and in the second, the precipitated steam enters the boiler through an installed pipe with a trap.

Heating in a private steam-type house is not relevant today, and it is used only in enterprises, since the boiler takes up a lot of space, and besides, it is quite complicated and dangerous to use.

Private house heating installation. Furnace system

The use of furnaces as the main heating system is becoming less common every year, however, it is they that create a special cozy atmosphere.

There are such furnace options that provide efficient heating:

• Metal - easy to install, quickly warm up, but do not have the ability to accumulate heat. Due to its low overall heat capacity, the stove gives off heat only within 2 to 3 hours, and then it needs to be heated again and again. And this is fraught with significant fuel consumption.
• Stone - provide a constant, better heating (due to the mass in them the set temperature remains longer), but require complex installation. Stone heating stoves come in various forms: heating (Dutch); heating and cooking (Swedes, Russian stoves); conventional cooking (ovens for a cauldron, barbecue); narrowly targeted (sauna heater, greenhouse, garage stoves). Such a variety of species allows you to choose the most suitable sample.

From a rational point of view, a heating and cooking stove will be an excellent solution. The surface performs two functions simultaneously: it serves for cooking and warms up the room. Due to the open comfortable surface, the heat of the furnace is wasted faster. Quite popular are fireplace stoves with a glass door, operating as an open or closed oven.

Oven heating can be arranged in two ways. In the first case, the room is heated by heating the stove itself from combustion products (wood or diesel fuel), this method is often found in villages, villages, towns, but fireplace heating (air heating) can also be attributed to it. In the second case, the furnace burning materials heats the coolant with its own heat or hot air, which rises and is supplied through pipes to the heating element. Further, the heated substance (water, oil, antifreeze) enters the one-pipe or two-pipe network.

It should be noted that stove heating is acceptable only in homes small area. When heating large cottages, it is worth considering other options.

Do-it-yourself heating of a private house: the benefits of gas as fuel

The presence near the gas pipeline section will allow you to spend gas heating private home do it yourself.

The use of gas as fuel and the corresponding boiler has several advantages:

• maintains the required temperature and retains heat for a long time;
• allows you to efficiently and safely heat fairly large buildings;
• does not create the need for procurement of additional components;
• allows you to adjust and maintain the set temperature, thanks to the latest gas systems equipped with thermostats;
• reduces the possibility of fire due to the low temperature of the combustion products.

For gas heating, one-pipe or two-pipe wiring is used (the features of which are discussed in the do-it-yourself water heating section).

Installation of heating in a private house is quite possible to carry out independently, however, choosing a gas type of heating, it should be remembered that only organizations with the necessary permissions can carry out installation work on the equipment.

Summary

It is quite possible to make heating a private house with your own hands, using the schemes and tips given above. You just need to remember that the right choice of heating system depends on the availability of fuel, the size of the heated cottage and your financial capabilities.

Reading time ≈ 19 minutes

For those who live outside the city or just in a small town or village, it will be quite useful to know how to make the heating in a private house yourself. Here, the approach is very important both from a financial and from a practical point of view, that is, do I have enough money for the project and do I need a particular heating method to provide heat in all the living rooms of the building. Of course, these are personal issues, and now we will analyze the main areas that are used in the private sector, and quite successfully.

Three main systems for heating a private house

Installation of radiator heating in a private house

There are many ways to heat houses in the private sector, but recently, three of them can be called the most popular, these are:

1. Radiator heating.
2. Underfloor heating system.
3. Combination of radiator heating and underfloor heating system.

Maybe someone will say that the most popular at the moment is stove heating. Maybe. Nevertheless, it will still be about autonomous water heating and how to install it. But before that, you need to pay a little attention to the elements of heating systems, from which the circuit assembly is made for any option.

Devices and elements used for heating

Aluminum radiators of different sizes

Of the radiators today, if not to talk about their configuration, three types are used that differ in metal and this:

• cast iron;
• steel;
• aluminum;
• bimetal.

If we are talking about the private sector, the heating can only be autonomous and only 0.1% of private houses are connected to centralized boiler houses. These are the houses that were once built by enterprises for their workers, but were eventually purchased, and central heating in some places still remained, although not all of them.

• This means that cast-iron radiators disappear immediately, since they heat up too long and require a large amount of water, which is not at all suitable for autonomy - there are too many costs.
• Steel batteries, both sectional and panel (non-separable) for a private house are excellent - they have good heat dissipation and a nice appearance, but they begin to rust and fail most quickly.
• Aluminum radiators are designed exclusively for autonomous heating and there are two reasons for this: firstly, they cannot withstand very high pressures and, secondly, special additives must be mixed into the coolant, which is impossible with a centralized water supply.
• , This is an ideal option, both for the private sector and for multi-storey buildings. They withstand the highest possible pressure, but in this case we are not interested, but they have excellent heat dissipation, and the service life is almost equal to cast iron, that is, if cast iron is 30-35 years old, then bimetal is 25-30 years old .

XLPE pipe layers

For a warm floor system, not even according to the instructions, but by default a pipe made of high-quality cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) should be used. The problem here is that, firstly, it is expensive material, although good and, secondly, when pouring the second layer of screed, which is done on top of the underfloor heating system, the pipes need to be filled with water so as not to flatten them with a solution (this delivers certain inconvenience). But practice has shown that a cheaper metal plate is perfect for this purpose, only it must be seamless - this ensures its strength. From my own experience I can say that the systems of underfloor heating from metal, laid 10-15 years ago by me personally, still operate successfully.

Setting up a double-circuit convection gas boiler

If we talk about boilers for water heating, then they can be:

• gas;
• electric;
• diesel;
• solid fuel.

Anyway, but gas units are certainly the best and there are several reasons for this. Firstly, dual-circuit models provide hot water for the house without installing an indirect heating boiler, and secondly, such units can be not only convection, but also condensation (low temperature), volatile and non-volatile, and modern models also have a built-in circulation pump . Gas boilers of any type are also equipped with built-in groups of various equipment: for automatic adjustment of temperature conditions and a safety group.

Unfortunately, not in every locality there is the possibility of connecting to a gas main and then most often they use electric boilers of various types, but in 99% of cases, these are TEN options, although some prefer electrode or induction models. But here, everything is not so smooth - in the distance from the city due to old transformers, sometimes there is not enough voltage to ensure the normal operation of the electric unit and then diesel or solid fuel boilers are purchased. Of course, this is a personal matter for everyone, but a wood-burning boiler wins over a diesel boiler for several reasons. Firstly, a diesel fuel is more expensive than firewood, secondly, nozzles are not needed for firewood, which a diesel can not do without, and thirdly, solid fuel boilers are much cleaner in operation (there is no soot and unpleasant smell).

Advantages and disadvantages of water heating

Integrated water heating system in the private sector

To begin with, as always, about the positive qualities of water heating systems:

• First of all, there is no need for daily cleaning and kindling of the furnace.
• The microclimate can be adjusted in each room individually.
• You can leave home even for a month, leaving the boiler in the on position - it will work in the set mode.
• Aesthetics of installation, both radiator and floor contour.
• You don’t have to worry about annual fuel production for the winter.

Of course, this method has some negative aspects:

• High cost of equipment (boiler, radiators, pipes).
• In some cases, water leakage may occur in the radiator circuit.
• If you do not use a heating system in winter, there is a danger of defrosting.

As you can see, water heating has more advantages than disadvantages and this is not surprising - after all, such designs are a child of scientific and technological progress. In addition, this type of coolant is by far the cheapest, and therefore the most profitable. If you calculate all the costs in general, the cost of furnace heating, taking into account the time spent on it, will not be much lower at its price.

Radiator heating

Of course, we can talk about the radiator heating system in a general sense, saying that this is convection heating from appliances distributed around the house and the like, but this is meaningless information, since everyone knows about it. It is important to highlight other factors, such as the number of pipes for the coolant, their location and the method of connecting heating devices to them.

Differences in single-tube radiator circuits

Natural circulation single pipe heating system

Many people in private homes, especially small size, they prefer "single tubes" and this is quite logical - installation is somewhat cheaper than for two-pipe wiring. Although it’s cheaper, perhaps for small houses - for a large building, this is already a controversial issue. The essence of the motion of the coolant here is as follows - it moves sequentially along all radiators, and having reached the latter, it returns to the boiler. In addition, such systems, in comparison with two-pipe ones, are easier to mount, but this is only one side of the coin.

The fact is that water passing through each battery becomes colder and colder and often the very last device almost does not heat up - it is almost impossible to fix this situation. The more points, the greater the cooling of water, although this somewhat compensates for the circulation pump, which does not allow the coolant to cool so quickly. For this reason, they try to make the plots as short as possible, in any case, a maximum of 30 m, and this is not always enough even for an average house. But be that as it may, such systems "have a place to be."

Horizontal connection

Horizontal connection a) lower; b) diagonal

The horizontal heating scheme in a private house is very convenient for single-story buildings, but here, in fact, there are three ways for distributing radiators. The two most popular are shown in the image above, that is, the pipe is laid at the floor, and radiators are connected to it using taps. This is the most effective method energy savings of the coolant for horizontal connection, that is, with this method the water cools less and the last point is still hot, although, of course, not the same as the two or three first.

Also pay attention to diagonal connection, it depends on the direction of water movement, that is, first the top, then the bottom - this is how heating appliances warm up best, since the sections are filled evenly. That is, with sufficient pressure, the coolant does not fall immediately down the first section, but is distributed further - from the vertical pipe of the device down the ribs. With the lower connection, the upper part of the radiator is often colder, since the movement of water mainly occurs along the lower pipe of the device, only slightly affecting the upper zone of the ribs.

The principle of this system is “from radiator to radiator”

Also, for horizontal wiring, the principle of "from the radiator to the radiator" is sometimes practiced. This is when the coolant, having passed through one radiator, immediately enters the next, that is, such a circuit does not provide for a separate pipe, but in itself is a highway. If you remove one battery, the whole system becomes incapacitated, as this interrupts the flow. Of course, there is no dispute, this is the most economical of all possible options, because it will require a minimum number of pipes to connect the points to each other. Only here the heat loss for distant points here is very strong and I myself had to deal with the fact that the owners asked to remake such a scheme.

Vertical wiring

Vertical distribution of radiators in the heating system is necessary for several floors

This type of wiring, as in the diagram above is used in multi-storey buildings, and a vivid example of this is “Stalin”, “Khrushchev” and “Brezhnevka”. The owners of two-story private houses have adopted this principle and it must be said that it works, if only because no one turns the water flow instead of a pipe through its own battery. The connection in this case is very similar to horizontal, but without diagonals, that is, it is either lower or lateral. This, of course, is a big drawback and most often you have to install an additional circulation pump.

Such additional traction is especially relevant when the house is divided into two wings - from the side of the boiler the heating is normal, but next to it it turns out to be cold in the wing. But here you need to be careful - if the capacity of the circulation pump installed in the adjacent wing exceeds the power of the pump integrated into the boiler, then everything will be exactly the opposite. This means that the coolant will flow out to the adjacent wing, otherwise the wing in which the boiler is installed will turn out to be cold. In addition, in the presence of a large number of radiators, balancing valves are installed on them, which allow you to evenly distribute the feed to all points. All these are “one-pipe” costs, but, again, people use them quite successfully.

The Leningradka system

Leningradka wiring system

Firstly, the “Leningradka” is not a know-how, but an ordinary one-pipe system of horizontal type, but without a circulation pump, but with a pipe slope, due to which circulation occurs. Secondly, such a wiring does not allow more than three radiators and is suitable only for small houses, for example, a room-bedroom-kitchen, so that there will not even be a bath. If a circulation pump appears on the return, then do not be mistaken - this is no longer a “Leningrad”, but the most ordinary one-pipe system with forced supply of a coolant.

Single pipe wiring. Is it so cheap as it seems?

Two pipe heating system

You need to figure out how to make the heating in a private house yourself and at the same time correctly, that is, without installation errors. If you combine all the methods of such wiring together, then we can say that these are two pipes, where hot water is supplied one by one, and the cooled liquid flows through the other into the boiler for further heating. Between these two circuits, radiators crash, the coolant, passing through each of them, is immediately dumped into the return line. In fact, the number of heating devices here is not limited, and until the liquid cools down in the pipe due to the distance, all radiators under certain conditions will have an equal chance of temperature conditions.

Such systems can be both with natural and forced circulation and have three types of connection of devices:

1. Top connection.
2. Bottom connection.
3. Collector (beam) connection.

Top wiring systems

Top wiring systems are more suitable for natural circulation

Numbering on the image:

1. Heating boiler
2. The main riser.
3. Distribution of heat carrier supply.
4. Risers feed.
5. The risers of the return.
6. The main return.
7. Expansion tank.

In the upper image, you see the installation of heating with the upper wiring - this design is visually familiar, perhaps, to every adult and hardly anyone is delighted with the pipe running near the ceiling or directly above the batteries. But this is a forced, but unusually effective option for the natural circulation of the coolant, which was practiced in those days when they did not even think about circulation pumps. They practice this method for solid fuel boilers in our time, because it is not always possible to install a pump for forced feeding.

The essence of this method is as follows: the water is heated in boiler No. 1 and, naturally, following the laws of physics, expands, therefore, rises along the main riser No. 2. On the inclined lounger No. 3, the coolant follows. The slope is 0.01%, that is, it is 10 mm per running meter. From the sunbed, hot water enters the riser No. 4, where the radiators are embedded, and after passing through the radiator the coolant is first dumped to the riser of the return No. 5 (this is for several floors), and then it enters the main return No. 6. This is the end of the cycle - on the recumbent return, where the same slope (10 mm per linear meter) is again sent to the boiler to heat up and start a new cycle. In the event of overheating, which often happens in unregulated boilers, the coolant rises into the expansion tank, without causing any harm to the system.

Such a wiring is very convenient, the radiators on it have a diagonal connection, therefore, they warm up completely, without "dead" zones. The natural circulation system is suitable for use in the private sector, but not only for one floor - it can be equipped with up to three floors, but then the boiler will have to be raised to the 2nd or 3rd floor. In this case, the height of the heater reduces the need for high pressure, therefore, the higher the boiler, the larger the area can be heated.

Bottom wiring systems

Lower wiring for forced circulation of the coolant

In this case, the principle of supply and discharge of the coolant remains the same as during natural circulation, but the presence of a pump (integrated into the boiler or additional) allows you to mount the flow circuit below. This makes it possible to use closed pipes - they are poured with a screed, hidden under drywall or drowned in strobes under the plaster. Most often, in such cases, the lower connection of radiators is used to minimize the visibility of the pipes, but this is not important - the connection can also be lateral and diagonal, depending on the need.

But if there are a lot of radiators, heat loss can not be avoided in any case, since you have to lengthen the circuit. That is, if the first points on a segment of a dozen meters are heated 100% or slightly less, then along the pipe the heating will still fall due to the distance. To some extent, these losses are compensated by a large feed diameter, for example, if the bends do PPR Ø 20 mm, then the PPR circuit itself is 25 mm or even PPR 32 mm. But such a measure is only partial and cannot evenly distribute heat to all points. Therefore, balancing valves are installed on the first radiators - this is, in fact, shutoff valves, only more accurate, regulating the flow of coolant.

A huge plus in this case is that the circuit does not need a slope - it is usually mounted in a horizontal line, and sometimes even with a counterclone. Another very important point: if an insert of an additional circulation pump is provided, then it is installed only on the return pipe - it works most efficiently on suction, not on push. An expansion tank is also installed in such systems, but of a diaphragm type - it serves as an auxiliary device for the integrated circulation pump, creating pressure. In case of overheating, the boiler has a safety group with a blasting valve.

Collector (beam) wiring systems

Collector wiring of radiators in a private residential building

No matter how good the two-pipe heating system is, nevertheless, there will be heat loss even with a circulation pump - this mainly depends on the length of the circuit and the longer it is, the more losses the extreme radiators suffer. Of course, balancing valves are mainly a way out, but adjusting them is not so simple, especially for a person who has never worked with heating - it takes too much time to adjust.

Therefore, in a large house, where many heating appliances are sometimes used, the method of collector or radiation wiring of radiators. This does not mean at all that each battery is connected separately from the collector - one comb channel usually works for a group of heating appliances. In such cases, losses are minimal, although sometimes balancing valves also have to be used. The main disadvantage of this wiring can be called a large number of pipes and this is not only a financial, but also a technical problem - the more pipes, the more difficult it is to lay them, since everything needs to be masked.

There is another wiring option, very similar to the lower technology, but different connection order. You can watch it on the video below. This is a Tichelman scheme. I deliberately omitted its description, as in the video it is much more clear.

Three radiator wiring diagrams

Warm floor

The underfloor heating system is mainly the privilege of the private sector, since it needs exclusively heating system. Of course, there are a few cases when residents of apartment buildings refuse to provide centralized boiler services, but the red tape that is behind all this does not contribute to enthusiasm.

Laying a pipe with a single (left) and double (right) snake

To begin, consider the methods of laying the heating circuit of a heated floor and at the top you see a single (left) and double (right) snake. From the drawing it immediately becomes clear that the first method is bad, since floor heating will be uneven, and this is simply unpleasant for the legs, although the room can warm up fully. Double laying evenly distributes heat throughout the entire floor area.

Spiral pipe laying

Of course, in most cases, this is not a square, but a round figure, but the laying principle does not change from this - first, towards the center, lay the feed, and then return to the starting point to the collector. This is the most effective method for installing a floor heating system and is used in approximately 80% of cases. The snake is most often needed in hard-to-reach places: under the stairs, behind the bar, and so on.

Mounting methods: on brackets (left), on clamps (right)

To fix both a polyethylene and metal-plastic pipe so that it does not budge, use fasteners in the form of brackets or clamps, but at the same time adhere to a pitch of 200 mm with any installation configuration. Under the contour, foil is necessarily laid (most often it is a 2-millimeter penofol), and if necessary, the lower screed is insulated).

Wiring the underfloor heating system from the collectors

A pipe that is filled with a screed (polyethylene or foam) never connects directly to the boiler, even if it is singular, but only through the collector (in use - a comb). This allows you to have a separate circuit in each room, although there are situations when two pipes are laid on the floor of one room at once - this measure is necessary for a large area. The supply is suitable for the collector from the boiler, and the return from it goes to the heater. There are combs with shut-off valves, there are without them, but in any case, temperature control is possible - either with a tap or a temperature sensor.

If necessary, so that there is no confusion in the pipes, several boxes with collectors are installed in different rooms - it is very convenient in the sense of adjusting the temperature during operation. Such containers are, of course, best to be recessed in the wall, but it is also allowed outdoor installation - technologically, the place does not matter, it is simply a matter of aesthetics. As a casing for such a niche, plumbers often use metal boxes for built-in electrical panels - they are very convenient and reliable in operation, and do not need to be painted. If the house does not have radiator heating and it is planned to install a gas boiler, then it is better to give preference to a condensing unit - it is more expensive than convection, but the cost will more than pay off during operation.

Combined heating

Combined heating scheme - radiators and floor heating

Modern residential buildings in the private sector, in which two, and sometimes even three floors, are equipped with combined heating, where radiators work from one boiler with a heated floor system. This option is very convenient in operation, that is, warm floors themselves are more profitable and more convenient than radiators, but they can not be laid in any room. But be that as it may, this choice is a personal matter for everyone and the reasons in this case do not matter - here the most important thing is the balance between different temperatures in the circuits.

If the radiator circuit needs a minimum coolant temperature of 60-80 ° C, then in the case of underfloor heating it will be 30-50 ° C, respectively, and all this must be done with one boiler from one supply. To do this, a three-way valve and a bypass are inserted in front of the floor heating circuit (see diagram above). The valve is set to the desired temperature, for example, 40 ° C. Water from the feed enters the pipe to the floor until it exceeds this mark. When this happens, the valve switches and discharges hot water through the bypass to the return. As soon as the floor temperature drops by 1-2 ° C, the valve switches again and supplies the coolant to the floor circuit.

Conclusion

You yourself see that if you understand in detail how to make heating in a private house yourself, the question becomes not so complicated - the main thing is to correctly understand the technology. Of course, for this you will have to re-read the article more than once, but then the question of technology will already arise, but this, as they say, is a matter of gain.

Properly organizing home heating is not an easy task. It is clear that specialists - designers and installers will cope with it best of all. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity it is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: the hired people carry out the whole range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.

Regardless of which heating option is chosen, one must be well aware of all the stages of the process. This material is step-by-step guide to action. Its purpose is to help you solve the problem of heating by yourself or competently monitor the hired specialists and installers.

Heating system elements

In the vast majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated by water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the issue, which has an undeniable advantage - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms through a coolant, and even it can be heated using various energy carriers. We will consider their list below when choosing a boiler.

Water systems also provide an opportunity to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy.

Any heating system where the coolant serves as the transmission link is divided into the following components:

• heat source;
• pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
• heating appliances (radiators or heating circuits warm floors).

In order to process and regulate the coolant, as well as perform maintenance work in heating systems, additional equipment and shut-off and control valves are used. The equipment includes the following elements:

• expansion tank;
• circulation pump;
• hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
• buffer capacity;
• distribution manifold;
• indirect heating boiler;
• devices and automation equipment.

Note. A mandatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank, the rest of the equipment is installed as needed.

It is well known that when heated, the water expands, and in an enclosed space its additional volume has nowhere to go. In order to avoid rupture of connections due to high pressure, an expansion tank of open or membrane type is installed in the network. She takes excess water.

Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by the pump, and in the presence of several circuits separated by a hydroarrow or buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a hydraulic separator and heat accumulator. The separation of the boiler circulation circuit from all others is practiced in complex systems cottages with several floors.

Collectors for the distribution of coolant are installed in heating systems with underfloor heating or in cases where a radiation circuit for connecting batteries is used, we will talk about this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil, where water for the needs of hot water is heated from the coolant. For visual control of the temperature and pressure of water, thermometers and manometers are installed in the system. Automation tools (sensors, temperature regulators, controllers, servos) not only monitor the parameters of the coolant, but also regulate them in automatic mode.

Stop valves

In addition to the listed equipment, the water heating of the house is controlled and serviced by means of shut-off and control valves, shown in the table:

When you become familiar with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step on the way to the goal - calculations.

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat the building. There are two ways to determine it: simple approximate and calculated. The first method is used by all sellers of heating equipment, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is a calculation of thermal power by the area of \u200b\u200bheated rooms.

They take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 watts. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing up the indicators for all rooms. We offer a more accurate method:

• by 100 W multiply the area of \u200b\u200bthose rooms where only 1 wall in contact with the street has 1 window;
• if the room is a corner with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 watts;
• when the room has 2 external walls with 2 windows or more, its area is multiplied by 130 watts.

If we consider power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may receive less heat, and in the south of Ukraine - overpay for too powerful equipment. Using the second, calculation method, heating design is performed by specialists. It is more accurate, as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.

Before proceeding with the calculations, the house must be measured, finding out the area of \u200b\u200bwalls, windows and doors. Then you need to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which the walls, floors and roof are erected. For all materials in the reference literature or on the Internet, one should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W / (m · ºС). We substitute it in the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):

R \u003d δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.

Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer, and then summarize the results.

Now you can find out the amount of heat passing through the external building structure by the formula:

• QTP \u003d 1 / R x (tv - tn) x S, where:
• QTP - the amount of heat lost, W;
• S is the previously measured area of \u200b\u200bthe building structure, m2;
• tv - here it is necessary to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
• tн - street temperature in the coldest period, ºС.

Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, substituting in the formula the values \u200b\u200bof thermal resistance and area for external wall, windows, doors, floors and roofs. Then all these results must be summarized, this will be the heat loss of this room. Square internal partitions no need to consider!

Heat consumption for ventilation

To find out how much heat a private house as a whole loses, you need to add up the losses of all its rooms. But this is not all, because it is necessary to take into account the heating of ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption by a simple formula:

Qt \u003d cm (tv - tn), where:

• Qvozd - the desired amount of heat for ventilation, W;
• m - the amount of air by mass, is defined as the internal volume of the building, multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
• (tv - tn) - as in the previous formula;
• s - heat capacity of air masses, taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).

To determine the heat demand of the entire building, it remains to add the QTP value for the house as a whole with the value of Qzd. The boiler power is taken with a margin for optimal operation, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. Here we must take into account an important point: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water in a hot water supply, then the power reserve should be increased. The boiler must work effectively in two directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.

Currently exist different kinds heating, characterized by the energy used or the type of fuel. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with a brief description of their pros and cons. To heat residential buildings, you can purchase the following types of domestic heat generators:

• solid fuel;
• gas;
• electric;
• on liquid fuel.

The following video will help you choose the energy source, and then the heat source:

Solid fuel boilers

They are divided into 3 varieties: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. Units are popular due to the low cost of operation, because compared to other energy carriers, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connecting to it is often more expensive than all heating equipment with installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are bought by people more and more often.

On the other hand, the operation of a heat source using solid fuel is very similar to simple stove heating. It takes time and effort to harvest, carry firewood and load them into the furnace. Serious strapping of the unit is also required in order to ensure its long-term and safe operation. After all, a conventional solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, the heating of the water does not stop immediately. And the efficient use of generated energy is possible only with a heat accumulator.

Important. Solid fuel boilers generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis - 80%, and pellet - no more than 83%.

The best choice from the point of view of comfort is a pellet heat generator, which is characterized by a high level of automation and practically has no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent trips to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.

Gas boilers

A great option is to conduct heating, which operates on the main gas. In general, gas-fired gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest non-volatile unit is at least 87%, and that of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. Heaters are compact, well automated and safe to use. Maintenance is required no more than 1 time per year, and trips to the boiler room are needed only to control or change settings. The budget unit will come out much cheaper than solid fuel, so gas boilers can be considered publicly available.

As well as solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney device and the presence of supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries of the former USSR, the cost of fuel there is much higher than in Russia, because of this popularity gas equipment steadily declining.

Electric boilers

I must say that electric heating is the most effective of all existing. Not only that, the efficiency of boilers is about 99%, so in addition they do not require chimneys and ventilation. Maintenance of the units as such is practically absent, except that cleaning 1 time in 2-3 years. And most importantly: the equipment and installation are very cheap, while the degree of automation can be anything. The boiler just does not need your attention.

How pleasant are the advantages of an electric boiler, just as significant major flaw - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you will not be able to get around the wood heat generator by this indicator. This is the payment for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second minus is the lack of the necessary electric power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can immediately erase all thoughts of electric heating.

Oil boilers

At the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating with used oil or diesel fuel will cost about the same as using natural gas. They also have similar performance indicators, although mining, for obvious reasons, loses somewhat. Another thing is that this type of heating can be safely called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end, at least with the smell of diesel fuel or with dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you get soot-belted soot.

The use of diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution, the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. The price of used oil has also risen, unless you have some cheap source of it. This means that putting a diesel boiler makes sense when there are no other energy sources or, in the long term, supplying main gas. The unit can easily switch from diesel to gas, but the furnace cannot be used to burn methane.

Schemes of heating systems for a private house

Heating systems implemented in private housing construction are one - and two-pipe. It’s easy to distinguish between them:

• according to the one-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both supply and return, passing by all batteries in the form of a closed ring;
• in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe, and returns - through the other.

Choosing a heating system scheme for a private house is not an easy task, it does not hurt to consult a specialist. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the single-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about the low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe, but also more complicated. Very detailed this topic is disclosed in the video:

The fact is that in single pipe system water from the radiator to the radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their power by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the double-pipe distribution lines. And the last: automatic control with a single-tube circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.

In a small house or cottage with the number of radiators up to 5, you can safely introduce a single-tube horizontal scheme (the common name is Leningradka). With a larger number of heating appliances, it will not be able to function normally, because the last batteries will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Similar schemes are quite common and work successfully.

The heat transfer medium for two-pipe wiring is delivered to all radiators with the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. The separation of the mains into the supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries through thermostatic valves.

The diameters of the pipelines are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are such varieties of two-pipe schemes:

dead end: the network of pipelines is divided into branches (shoulders), along which the coolant moves along the highways towards each other;

associated two-pipe system: here the return manifold is, as it were, a continuation of the supply, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;

collector (radiation). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the laying method is hidden, in the floor.

If you take horizontal lines of larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then the circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. In fairness, we note that without a pump, both single-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function. If only conditions were created for the natural circulation of water.

The heating system can be made open by installing at the highest point an expansion tank in communication with the atmosphere. This solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If you install an expansion tank of the membrane type on the return line near the boiler, the system will be closed and work under excessive pressure. This is a more modern version, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of the coolant.

We can not say about the method of heating the house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is the high cost, since it will be necessary to lay hundreds of meters of pipes in the screed, as a result of which a heating water circuit is obtained in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to the distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important plus is the economical uniform heating of the rooms, very comfortable for people. Floor heating circuits are definitely recommended for use in any residential buildings.

Tip. It is safe to recommend the owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) to adopt a conventional two-pipe scheme with forced circulation of the coolant. Then the diameters of the mains will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the leads to the batteries - 15 mm.

Installation of a heating system

We will begin the description of installation work with installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. At the same time, for heat sources burning different types of fuel and having an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required for the removal of combustion products.

For the natural movement of water, the installation of the boiler is recommended in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the radiators on the first floor.

The place where the heat generator will be located must be selected taking into account the minimum permissible distances to walls or other equipment. Typically, these intervals are indicated in the manual that came with the product. If this data is not available, then we adhere to the following rules:

• the width of the passage from the front of the boiler is 1 m;
• if you do not need to service the unit from the side or back, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
• distance to the nearest equipment - 0.7 m;
• when placing two boilers next to them, a passage of 1 m is maintained, 2 m opposite each other.

Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not needed, only the clearance in front of the unit must be observed for ease of maintenance.

Boiler connection

It should be noted that the piping of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is almost the same. It should be borne in mind that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models have an expansion tank. To begin, consider the connection diagram of a simple gas or diesel unit:

The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. This strapping method is most common. A pump with a bypass line and a sump is located on the return line, and an expansion tank is also located there. Pressure is controlled by pressure gauges; air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.

Note. Strapping electric boiler, not equipped with a pump, is carried out according to the same principle.

When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for the needs of hot water supply, piping and installation of elements is as follows:

Shown here is a wall-mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. To remove flue gases, a double-walled coaxial gas duct is used that is led out horizontally through the wall. If the firebox of the unit is open, then you need a traditional chimney with good natural draft. How to install a chimney pipe from a sandwich module, as shown in the figure:

In country houses of a large area, it is often necessary to dock a boiler with several heating circuits - radiator, underfloor heating and an indirect heating boiler for the needs of hot water supply. In such situation optimal solution will engage the hydraulic divider. It will allow you to organize an independent circulation of the coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time serve as a distribution comb for the remaining branches. Then circuit diagram heating of a two-story house will look like this:

According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, so that it works independently of the others. Since a heat carrier with a temperature of not more than 45 ° C should be supplied to warm floors, three-way valves are used on these branches. They mix hot water from the main line when the coolant temperature in the underfloor heating circuits decreases.

With solid fuel heat generators, the situation is more complicated. Their binding should take into account 2 points:

• possible overheating due to inertia of the unit; firewood cannot be put out quickly in any way;
• condensation when entering the tank cold water from the network.

In order to avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return, and a safety group should be placed on the supply immediately after the heat generator. It consists of three elements: pressure gauge, automatic air vent and safety valve. The presence of the latter is crucial, it is the valve that relieves excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following strapping scheme is required:

Here, the bypass and three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not let water from the system into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 ° C. Detailed information on this subject can be obtained by watching the video:

Tip. Solid fuel boilers due to the nature of operation, it is recommended to use it together with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:

Many homeowners put two different sources of heat in the furnace room. They must be correctly tied and connected to the system. In this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them for a solid fuel and electric boiler, working together with radiator heating.

The second scheme combines a gas and a wood heat generator that supply heat to heat a house and prepare water for domestic hot water:

To mount the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. On the modern market There are several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private houses:

• steel;
• copper;
• from stainless steel;
• polypropylene (PPR);
• polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
• metal-plastic.

Heating mains made of ordinary “black” metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and “overgrowing” of the passage section. In addition, to independently install from such pipes is not easy: you need good skills welding workto make a tight dock. Nevertheless, some homeowners still use steel pipelines when they arrange autonomous heating of the house.

Copper or stainless pipes are an excellent choice, but it is painfully expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if there are funds, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skills, and stainless steel - with the help of collapsible or press fittings. Preference should be given to the latter, especially with hidden installation.

Tip. For tying boilers and laying highways within the boiler room, it is best to use any type of metal pipe.

The cheapest cost for you is polypropylene heating. From all types of PPR pipes, it is necessary to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only plus, since the installation of heating from polypropylene pipes is a rather complicated and responsible business. And in appearance, polypropylene loses to the rest of the plastic products.

Joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are carried out by soldering, and it is not possible to verify their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will necessarily flow subsequently, but if it is overheated, the polymer that has spread out will overlap the passage section by half. Moreover, it will not be possible to see this during assembly, flaws will let you know about yourself later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid “saber” bends, the pipe must be mounted on movable supports, and a clearance should be left between the ends of the line and the wall.

Much easier to do with your own hands heating from polyethylene or plastic pipes. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are most convenient, since the joints here are performed quite simply. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: the joints must be made on press fittings, and not collapsible.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways, and hidden behind any screens, as well as for the installation of water heated floors. The disadvantage of pipes made of PEX material is its desire to return to its original state, which makes the laid heating manifold look slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a “memory” and bend quietly as you need. Details on the choice of pipes are described in the video:

An ordinary homeowner by going to a heating equipment store and seeing there widest choice various radiators, it can be concluded that picking up batteries for your home is not so easy. But this is the first impression, in fact there are not so many varieties:

• aluminum;
• bimetallic;
• steel panel and tubular;
• cast iron.

Note. There are also designer water heating devices of various types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.

Sectional batteries made of aluminum alloy have the best heat transfer, bimetal heaters are also not far from them. The difference between the one and the other is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This is done with the aim of using appliances in centralized systems heating of high-rise buildings, where the pressure can be quite high. Therefore, installing bimetallic radiators in a private cottage does not make sense at all.

It should be noted that installing heating in a private house will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer performance is less than that of aluminum, but in practice you are unlikely to feel the difference. As for reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to design ones.

Steel and aluminum heating appliances have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic control with thermostatic valves. You can not say about massive cast-iron batteries, on which it is pointless to put such valves. This is due to the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time, and then to keep warm for some time. Also, because of this, the rate of heating the premises is reduced.

If we touch on the issue of aesthetics of appearance, then the cast-iron retro-radiators offered now are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they cost fabulous money, and inexpensive "accordions" of the Soviet MC-140 model are suitable only for a country one-story house. The conclusion suggests itself from the above:

For a private home, buy those heating appliances that you like most and are comfortable at a cost. Just consider their features and choose the right size and thermal power.

Power selection and methods for connecting radiators

The selection of the number of sections or the size of the panel radiator is carried out according to the amount of heat required to heat the room. We already determined this value at the very beginning, it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer to the section for the temperature difference between the coolant and the room air, equal to 70 ° C. To do this, the water in the battery must be warmed up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.

It turns out that the real thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper heating of the premises, installation of radiators is required, having at least one and a half margin in heat transfer. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you should take heating appliances with a power of at least 2 x 1.5 \u003d 3 kW.

Indoor batteries are placed in places of the greatest heat loss - under the windows or near the dull outer walls. At the same time, connection to highways can be done in several ways:

• lateral one-sided;
• diagonal versatile;
• lower - if the radiator has the corresponding nozzles.

Lateral connection of the device on the one hand is most often used when it is connected to risers, and the diagonal connection to horizontally laid highways. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat evenly.

When a one-pipe heating system is mounted, the lower multi-sided connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:

There are radiator models where the design provides for the connection of pipes from below. Such devices have internal wiring and, in fact, they implement a one-sided side circuit. This is clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.

You can find out a lot of useful information on the choice of heating appliances by watching the video:

5 typical errors during installation

Of course, when installing the heating system, you can allow much more than five flaws, but we will highlight the 5 most egregious, which can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:

• wrong choice of heat source;
• errors in the binding of the heat generator;
• incorrectly selected heating system;
• careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
• improper installation and connection of heating appliances.

A boiler of insufficient capacity is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed in the selection of the unit, designed not only to heat the premises, but also to prepare water for the needs of hot water. If you do not take into account the additional power needed to heat the water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the DHW system will not heat up to the desired temperature.

Parts play not only a functional role, but also serve security purposes. For example, installing the pump is recommended on the return pipe in front of the heat generator itself, in addition on the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is the installation of a crane in the area between the boiler and the safety group, this is strictly forbidden.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, the pump must not be placed in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant).

The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point, with a closed one - on the return pipe, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a dirt collector mounted horizontally with the stopper down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines by means of American women.

When the heating system is selected incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incur additional costs to bring it to mind. Most often, errors are encountered when installing single-tube systems, when more than 5 radiators are trying to “hang” on one branch, which then do not heat. The flaws in the installation of the system include non-compliance with slopes, poor-quality connections and the installation of the wrong fittings.

For example, a thermostatic valve or an ordinary ball valve is placed at the radiator inlet, and at the outlet balancing valve to set the heating system. If the pipes are installed to the radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down along the road. When joining polypropylene pipes, you must carefully adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron, so that the connection is reliable.

Choose a coolant

It is well known that filtered and, if possible, desalted water most often serves this purpose. But under certain conditions, for example, periodic heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the latter is filled with non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this fluid and do not forget to remove from the system all gaskets from ordinary rubber. From antifreeze, they quickly become sap and leakage occurs.

Attention! Not every boiler can work with non-freezing liquid, which is displayed in its technical passport. This must be checked when purchasing it.

As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through the make-up valve and check valve. In the process of filling, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and Mayevsky hand cranes. With a closed circuit, pressure is monitored by a manometer. Usually in the cold state it lies in the range 1.2-1.5 Bar, and during operation does not exceed 3 Bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the recharge when it expires from the overflow pipe.

Antifreeze is pumped into a closed heating system by a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. So that the process does not interrupt, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of appropriate capacity, from where it is pumped to the pipeline network. Filling an open system is simpler: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into an expansion tank.

Conclusion

If you thoroughly understand all the nuances, it becomes clear that it is quite possible to install a heating system in a private house on your own. But you must understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including to control the installation in the event that you decide to hire specialists for this.

In an effort to make their housing comfortable and independent of various utilities, many start with autonomous heating of a house or apartment. In the process of its construction, questions arise that have to be solved in a hurry or even “retroactively”.

You can install the heating system of a private house yourself or with the help of professionals. In any case, you need to be familiar with the design process, coordination of permits and installation of the system. Such knowledge will allow you to track the quality of work at each stage and eliminate obvious errors.

How to make heating in a private house

To begin with, we briefly list the main stages that will need to be completed on the way to achieving the goal:

1. choice of heating system;
2. selection of constituent elements of the heating system;
3. calculation of heating a private house;
4. development of individual heating schemes;
5. registration and obtaining permits;
6. installation of a heating system;
7. test run of the system.

It is important to adhere to the sequence, as Phased implementation of the project eliminates errors that are difficult or expensive to fix.

1. The choice of heating - which heating system is best for a private house

The choice of autonomous heating is based on the type of boiler that runs on a particular type of fuel and is distinguished by structural elements. Among the most popular heating systems: gas, electric, liquid and solid fuel heating.

The main criteria for choosing a heating boiler are:

• safety;
• fuel availability;
• compactness, ease of regulation, maintenance and maintainability;
• profitability of installation and operation;
• the opportunity to make heating yourself.

Private house heating systems - types and types

Water heating system

One of the most operated heating systems in our country is water heating. Piping in a house or apartment is a common occurrence.

The principle of operation of water heating is as follows: water heated from a boiler naturally (or forced) circulates through the pipes, giving off heat to the room. Given that along the movement of water at the junction, on the bend of pipes, etc. friction and local resistance are formed, many systems are equipped with valves to provide pressure, the strength of which is equal to the loss of resistance. Such a water heating system is called an artificial water circulation system.

The water heating system can be structurally implemented according to two schemes:

• Single circuit (system with closed water circulation, oriented only to heating)

• Double circuit (a system oriented at the same time to space heating and water heating in a water supply system). Such a system requires the use of a special double-circuit boiler.

A water heating device involves 3 fundamentally different piping layouts in rooms.

Routing heating pipes

One pipe home heating system

A diagram of a single-pipe heating system is shown in the photo.

As can be seen from the figure, the pipes are looped, and the radiators are connected in turn. Thus, the coolant exits the boiler and each of them passes in turn.
It should be noted that the temperature of the coolant is gradually decreasing. This is a significant minus of the system. Nevertheless, it is quite common due to its simplicity, efficiency and the ability to make a one-pipe heating system with your own hands.

How to reduce heat loss with a single pipe heating system:

• increase the number of sections in the last radiators (two or three of the last);

• increase the temperature of the coolant at the outlet. This, in turn, increases heating costs;

• provide forced circulation to the coolant. That is, install a pump that will create additional pressure in the system causing the water to circulate faster.

Two-pipe home heating system

A diagram of a two-pipe heating system is shown in the photo. The blue color indicates the mining pipe, which removes the cooled coolant from the radiator to the boiler.

The two-pipe system provides heat transfer to the radiators without heat loss. Its varieties are shown in the photo. With parallel connection, material savings are achieved. With radiation, it becomes possible to adjust the temperature in each room separately.

Collector (beam) wiring

It involves the use of a special device - a collector that collects the coolant and distributes it through pipes to the batteries. The scheme is difficult to implement, so it is rarely used.

The undoubted advantage of the water heating system is its safety.

The disadvantages include:

• it is relatively difficult to heat a large area without significant costs (due to heat loss during water circulation);

• aesthetic parameter. An extensive pipe system can be hidden by sacrificing a certain amount of room volume, which is not always convenient, or left in sight;

• large heating radiators;

• the likelihood of air jams. This problem occurs after draining water from the system.

Individual heating of a private house not only allows you to provide yourself with the desired comfort. It is important for society as a whole, and for safety the environment. In addition to the fact that with “spot” heating, heat losses in highways are eliminated (which is up to 30% or more in the capacity of thermal power plants) and the need for large-scale industrial construction is reduced, greenhouse gas emissions become dispersed in space and time and are much more easily “digested” by the natural cycle of substances .

Note: during a typical spring thunderstorm in the Moscow Region, energy of about 6–20 Mt TNT is released. And only 100 kt of it, released immediately and at a point, on the same area will produce catastrophic destruction.

2 circumstances hinder the full identification of the advantages of individual heating systems (CO): technical innovations that provide radical fuel economy are very expensive and pay off in 20-40 years, and the professional implementation of JI, in addition to high cost, is constrained by standard design stereotypes (involuntary pun) .When mechanically transferring them to private houses designed differently, heating 1 cube . m of their volume is often more expensive than in a panel panel apartment building, and fuel consumption does not fit into environmental standards. Therefore, for many homeowners and private developers, the question of how to make a DIY with your own hands or at least competently develop its scheme is of vital interest.

This article is an attempt to illuminate these problems from the point of view, first of all, of minimizing the costs of both the construction of JI and the cost of heating in the future. The global economy, ecology - this, of course, is very important. But you need to go to them from the welfare of individual citizens, and not to sacrifice a certain Leviathan.

Of particular interest as an object of heating is a two-story house. In mass construction, it is unprofitable, where profitability directly depends on the number of storeys. Private owners, until recently, also avoided the second / one and a half floors, it seemed difficult and expensive. But with rising prices for building plots and taxes on land and real estate, the floors above the first are becoming more relevant for small homeowners.

At the same time, it is for a one and a half-two-story building that you can implement non-traditional heating schemes, which are very economical both in terms of initial expenses and in operation. Perhaps a builder or a heating engineer with a “typical” mindset will lose their eyes from looking at such a project, but it works! Heats!

Our ultimate goal is to develop autonomous heating with the possibility of emergency connection of alternative energy sources, the operating costs of which will not exceed those for an apartment in an apartment building of equal area. Overported, my dear? Well, read the text with the infographic before you, judge for yourself.

Initial position

Take a look at the pic. No, this is not our final result. This is a heating scheme of a 2-storey building with a total area of \u200b\u200b120-150 square meters. m, designed according to the European standard DIN. Only the CO scheme, without boiler strapping. Which is even more fearsome, and how in real life there is only a collector unit, you can look at the trail. fig. on right. How much money will be spent on pipes, cranes, temometers, pressure gauges, fasteners alone? Let's not talk about sad things, let's talk better about the dynamics of mortgage rates. Black humor, sorry.

We will not do that. Anyhow - too. To simplify and reduce the cost of CO, we use the fact that the concept of quality of life is often reduced to absurdity and turns into its opposite. In relation to this case, firstly, we will refuse to control the electronics and automatically maintain the rooms individually set temperature with an accuracy of plus or minus 0.5 degrees. The man is not Kramer's oncidium orchid, not the cusimanza viverra and not the decorative pony. It was not formed in greenhouse conditions at all, and temperature fluctuations of 2-3 degrees within the comfort range will only benefit it.

Second, European standards hate breathing walls. Even building wood, and from living to build in some countries is expressly prohibited. Why - it is incomprehensible and nowhere intelligently justified. Maybe for the same reason that the standard Euro-individual, on pain of painful death, will not eat wild mushrooms and berries, but with pleasure, slowly let a whiskey-bourbon go down his throat, in which there are more sivuks than in the Sumy potato moonshine and from which a person , familiar to Crimean wines and Armenian cognac, immediately turns inside out.

More specifically - the DIN is deaf, which is why you have to set the industrial air circulation rate at 2 full exchanges per hour. As a result, heat losses for ventilation account for 60% of the total. We will proceed from the domestic living standard - 1 exchange / hour and 40% of ventilation heat loss. And in emergency cases (forced heating in abnormal frost, interruptions with energy carriers), let us recall the medical minimum: a person needs an average of 7 cubic meters for breathing. m of air per hour.

That is, we are refusing the tacitly established principle of “give us a box, and we’ll somehow stuff the batteries in it” and try to develop a comprehensive JI project in conjunction with a heated building. The priority task is to set ourselves a comprehensive reduction of unrecoverable heat losses, then the measures to warm the house will be much more effective and cheaper.

Finally, we assume that we are not felts, and work for ourselves will not be a burden. Typical JI involves turnkey delivery to the customer, after which the builders, having received the due from the owner, go to another facility. It’s a sin for us to spend 3-5 days setting up a finished system for a building once and for all. Individual heating, which requires tuning work, is simpler, cheaper, more reliable and creates more comfort than a standard, modified for an arbitrary layout; after all, in this case, we will be able to narrow our reserves by calculated coefficients.

About two boilers

In the diagram above 2 boilers, connected in series, in cascade. And the same, i.e. not for basic and emergency fuel. What for?

The fact is that heating boilers keep the passport efficiency down to 10-12% of rated power, then it drops sharply. But for forced heating in severe frost, the boiler power must be taken 2-3 times more than the calculated one according to average climatic indicators. Then the limit of its adjustment drops to 3-5 times, and for complete comfort, adjustment is required every 10-20 times during the heating season, depending on the local climate. So you have to put 2 boilers of rated (rated) power: those connected in cascade, they will give just desired limits power is not at the expense of reserve for afterburner

Note: here we will try to save money - we will take the main boiler with rated power with afterburner, and for a protracted off-season or abnormal cold weather, we will connect a simple and cheap one on an additional or alternative energy source. You have to turn it on / off manually, but we will tolerate it for the sake of economy.

What you need to remember!

There is such a fundamental scientific concept - entropy. Roughly speaking, it means a universal desire for disorder. Everything in the world wants to get lost, litter, get dusty, crawl away, crumble, spread out. To maintain order, you have to spend some energy. What does this mean with reference to CO, let us examine an example. By the way, entropy was born from thermodynamics.

Suppose a frost hit or increased ventilation is required. The boiler "succumbed to the heat", and then, when the need for afterburner passed, the decay was below the nominal value until the CO cools down. Since heat loss is always directed outward, forced heating will take longer than reduced heat during cooling. This phenomenon is called thermal hysteresis and is due to the thermal inertia of the boiler and CO. Where and how does the energy of excessively burned fuel go - an interesting question for a physicist, but requiring a long discussion, so just take note: the thermal inertia of CO should be achieved as little as possible. In particular, do not use excessively powerful boilers.

If, for example, in terms of the breadth of the Russian soul, buying a power boiler is 5-7 times more than the calculated one, then heat loss due to hysteresis, a large boiler, will noticeably increase the decrease in efficiency at the lower power limit, its shirt volume is comparable to the volume of pipes and radiators. And then you have to read on the forums: “They dilute the gas with something! According to the heat calculation, the consumption is 170 cubic meters per month, and Buderus eats 380! ” Of course, it’s eating. And where should he go if, instead of being honestly deserved at the company tests, the efficiency of 85% makes him work barely for forty. The water in the shirt does not decrease from this.

How to bask?

Well, it's time to get to the point. And first of all, we will figure out what types of heating are and which one to choose. That is, we choose a coolant, everything else follows from it.

Air

Natural circulation warm air create heating furnaces in the room. We will return to them for a short time at the end, but for now we will note as a fact: the heat capacity of the air is very small, and for a full-fledged air heating, either a large-sized air heater or a sufficiently intense convective flow is needed.

The first case is. Heated air in a room with a warm floor has little contact with walls and windows, and its temperature is not high. Thermal inertia is very small, because it directly depends on the heat capacity of the coolant. Therefore, heat loss is lower than when heating with radiators, 1.4-1.7 times. One thing is bad: it is difficult to push the primary coolant through a long, thin tube embedded in the floor, so a separate circulation pump is necessary for a warm floor. If the electricity goes out, it will stop and the floor will stop heating.

Due to its high efficiency in combination with energy dependence, it is advisable to use warm floors in rooms that do not require an even temperature, but intensively lose heat: in hallways, corridors, halls. In a bedroom or a nursery, it is undesirable - increased comfort at lower costs does not pay off the risk of sudden chilling at night.

The second case is fully airborne CO from the air heater in the basement through a duct system. In buildings no higher than 2 floors, air-convection SO can be very economical, then its efficiency drops rapidly. It was widely used in antiquity, but already in the Middle Ages, due to the increase in the number of storeys of buildings, it became obsolete. Currently, the method for calculating air-convection CO is absent, therefore, its construction is the lot of lovers of technical experiments on themselves.

Steam

Heating with superheated steam under pressure is almost completely devoid of thermal inertia, and other things being equal allows to reduce boiler power (and fuel consumption) by 20-30% However, the use of steam WITH is permitted only in production facilities with continuous qualified supervision and care of the system: the probability of an accident is significant, superheated steam is extremely, even fatally, traumatic and steam radiators are heated to 120-140 degrees. Assembly of steam WITH is difficult and time-consuming, because the only possible material for system components is steel.

Water and antifreeze

Today the best option for a private residential building is water heating: the heat capacity of water is greater than that of most other liquids, which allows us to make CO more compact, but its viscosity is low. This allows you to achieve a small thermal inertia due to the acceleration of the circulation of the coolant in the system; how - more on that later. To build aqueous CO, you can use plastics, which facilitates the work and reduces additional heat loss.

As for solutions of ethylene glycol in water - antifreezes - their thermotechnical properties are no worse. But antifreezes are expensive, toxic, therefore a thorough and durable sealing of the system is required. In addition, the choice of the type of boiler is limited and its piping becomes more expensive, because the use of emergency discharge of overheated coolant into the sewer is excluded.

СО on antifreeze is desirable to use in temporarily inhabited buildingslet's say rented out in winter. But then they will need to provide independent power supply - strapping of boilers on antifreeze, as a rule, is electromechanical and is controlled by electronics. The CO itself will also be more expensive: its fittings should also be designed for the minus temperature range, and the design should exclude the precipitation of water condensate from the outside air.

What to drown?

The second main issue is fuel for the boiler. The most economical option is natural gas gas heating. By the ratio of energy intensity and price, it has no equal yet. 1 kJ of a liquefied propane-butane cylinder costs about three times more, in addition, 30 kg of gas in a standard 50 liter cylinder is enough for a day only south of Rostov-on-Don. Electricity as the main energy carrier is also not an option: its energy release, taking into account the efficiency of the system, is 0.95 kW of heat per 1 kW from the network, but it costs 1 kW / h 3 rubles.

Note: in some cases, the use of stationary heating appliances can still be justified, see below.

But what then to heat, if the house is without gas? We will solve this problem as follows: we will determine the total required energy supply of the fuel as a whole for the season, according to it and the energy intensity (calorific value) of the fuel, the volume of its purchase, and there, at local prices, we will decide what kind of fuel the boiler needs. The same technique applies to the emergency auxiliary boiler.

Note: the calorific value of wood is highly dependent on its moisture content. When a tree dampens from room-dry (15% humidity) to stored in an open woodpile (60% humidity), the calorific value decreases by 2.5 times.

The calorific value of different types of fuel, see the table on the right. Wood fuel is supposed to be room-dry. More precisely, the local type of fuel can be determined by its supplier and / or municipal heating technicians. To bring the boiler power to it, you need to remember that 1 W \u003d 1 J / s. That is, we first determine how much kW the boiler should develop on average during the heating season:

P \u003d (ξp) / η (1),

where η - passport efficiency of the boiler;

ξ is the seasonal coefficient of boiler power utilization.

For Moscow, ξ \u003d 0.5, to Arkhangelsk it proportionally increases to 0.79, and to Krasnodar it also proportionally drops to 0.35.

Now we multiply P (in kilowatts) by 3.6 (so many kiloseconds per hour) and by 24, the number of hours in a day, we get the average daily energy consumption of CO:

e (kJ) \u003d 86.4t (1000s) * P (kW) (2),

and multiplying it by the duration of the heating season in days, we obtain the total seasonal energy consumption for heating E. Dividing it by the calorific value of fuel Q, we obtain the purchase weight of fuel in kilograms:

M (kg) \u003d E (kJ) / Q (kJ / kg) (3),

well, how many kilograms per ton, everyone knows that. It remains to compare prices and decide what will be cheaper.

Note: sometimes in directories give the calorific value of fuel in kilocalories (kcal) per kg. The transfer to joules is simple: 1 J \u003d 0.2388 cal, and 1 cal \u003d 4.3 J.

In the same way, gas consumption is calculated, but everywhere instead of kilograms there will be cubic meters. To get the average monthly gas consumption (this may be necessary for layout family budget), the total consumption is simply divided by the number of months in the heating season.

Note: in online directories, heat loss calculators, trade declarations, etc., you can find the calorific value in kW / kg or kW / cubic meter. Do not believe this data - a watt and its derivatives are units of power, energy release per unit time. If it is not immediately indicated how long the fuel was burned, that such numbers were obtained, this is a filkin letter. To calculate the amount of fuel and its costs, you need to know the total energy release regardless of the time of its use, because we pay for energy, not power. But how to determine it, if it is not known how long these kilowatts were allocated? If 1 kg of fuel completely burned out in 1 s, developing a power of 1 kW, then the energy in this kilogram is 1 kJ. And if it burned for 1 hour with the same power, then 3600 kJ or 3.6 MJ were released. By default, it is assumed that we mean (kW * h) / kg, then a unit of energy comes out, with the same dimension as the joule. But the merchants, quietly removing * h (a typo like), shamelessly enter any adjustable nonsense in the column, and you can’t check it.

Home heating

We will calculate the heating for our home in the following order:

• We outline the outline sketch of the house, based on the available funds and the building plot.
• We will carry out zoning at home according to the degree of necessary room comfort.
• We find the heat loss for each room separately.
• If necessary, if JI is being developed for a new building, we will finalize a draft design.
• Let's place in the rooms heating devices: radiator batteries and, possibly, additional stationary heaters.
• Also, for each room we determine the total thermal power of the radiators, and according to it - the required number of sections.
• We will choose a system for constructing CO and a coolant wiring diagram, and from them additional correction factors for calculating the boiler power. Here we decide what we will do ourselves, and why we will have to hire craftsmen.
• We calculate, using the main (mandatory) and additional factors, the required boiler power.

After that, it remains to calculate the meter and nomenclature of pipes, the number and nomenclature of connectors, valves, automation devices, the nature and scope of work, the required tools and materials, etc. According to the calculation, an estimate is made for the construction of JI, but this is a subject of a separate serious discussion. Here we restrict ourselves to the calculation of the boiler, as the methodology for calculating fuel consumption is already given above.

Comfort zones

The basis of the economical use of energy for heating is the careful zoning of the house according to the required / permissible degree of comfort of the rooms. To a private homeowner who is not constrained by typical norms and expenses for paying design specialists, it is possible to recommend building zoning more detailed than is customary for mass building for potential buyers, but saving heat more:

1. The zone of complete comfort is a temperature range of 22-24 degrees, no more than 2 external walls. This includes, (especially -), nursing parents' rooms, gym, etc.
2. The sleeping area - in addition, these are general-purpose rooms where the whole personal life of their inhabitants is concentrated: guest rooms, maid’s rooms, rental rooms. The temperature range is 21-25 degrees.
3. Living area - dining room, study for mental work, hostess boudoir, etc. Temperature range - according to the sanitary norm, 18-27 degrees.
4. Economic zone - here people are actively working fully dressed for the season. Most likely, there are sources of additional heating. This includes a kitchen, home workshop, conservatory, etc. The upper temperature limit is not standardized, the lower one in the absence of people can drop to 15-16 degrees.
5. A temporary use zone, or a passage zone -, a forester's cage, a garage, etc. Because people here appear in passing and in outer clothing, the lower temperature limit is set at 12 degrees. For heating, it is advisable to use a warm floor or ceiling infrared (IR) emitters, about them see below in the section on electric heating. Heating radiators - emergency, temporarily turned on to protect the boiler from overheating.
6. Utility zone - heat sources are not installed in the premises of this zone, the temperature range is not standardized at all, if only it were above zero. Heating is carried out due to heat transfer from neighboring rooms. Here you can also put emergency radiators WITH.

Layout

If the JI is designed for an already built house, then you won’t be able to do anything - you will have to zone what is and what heat losses will come out. But still less than by standard calculation methods. If CO fits into the house at the preliminary design stage, then you need to be guided by the following rules:

• A comfortable room should have no more than 2 external walls, i.e. no more than 1 outer corner. Heat loss through corners is maximum.
• For a boiler, albeit a wall-mounted one, it is better to allocate a separate room, this will increase its average seasonal efficiency. Minimum requirements for fire regulations - volume from 8 cubic meters. m, the ceiling height is from 2.4 m, there must be an opening window with an area of \u200b\u200b10% of the floor area of \u200b\u200bthe boiler room, free air flow is required either through the slot under the door from 40 mm, or through the grille with an air filter in it (preferably), or through supply valves from the street. A separate chimney is mandatory in the boiler room, not communicating with general ventilation and other smoke channels (say, with a chimney of a fireplace). Finishing - from non-combustible materials, partitions with adjacent rooms - no less than brick (27 cm).
• The rooms of the 1st zone are preferably located adjacent to the boiler room (furnace) in order to make better use of the waste heat of the boiler. But the door to the boiler room must be done either from the street, or from the rooms of non-residential areas - utility, checkpoint, utility room, except for the garage.
• The bathroom is preferably located either adjacent to the boiler room, or closer to the center of the building.
• The premises of the utility, passage and utility areas should be placed from the corners, near the windward, northern or north-eastern walls.
• The rooms of the economic zone, in addition, it is desirable to use as thermal buffers between 1-3 and 5-6 zones.

Examples of standard (according to standard, but wisely applied standards) and non-standard planning solutions are shown in Fig. Designations: G - living room, C - master bedroom, D - nursery, KP - room of the parents of the owners (for grandmother), K - kitchen, Kab - office of the owner, T - toilet, Vn - bathroom, Gr - dressing room, P - entrance hall , T - furnace (boiler room), H - closet, X - hall, F - lantern above the hall made of polycarbonate on flat roof, Gar - garage.

Both houses have a total area of \u200b\u200bless than 150 square meters. m, and for building enough for them 4 acres, and there is still room for a lawn and a garden in the backyards. Nevertheless, not every wealthy city dweller can afford a living room of 30-35 squares and a bedroom of 15-20 squares.

The house on the left is for a family with an established way of life and traditional thinking. The nursery was taken to a corner, and my grandmother’s room to the furnace because the firstborn was born sturdy, and it’s useful for the old woman to warm the bones. If a grandmother, in her own words, heals in the world until a second nursery is needed, the owner agrees to give her an office.

The house on the right is for a young independent family. Thanks to the fairly large hall irregular shape nevertheless managed to push the doors to the rooms (according to the designer) and push the bathroom into the center of the building. The roof of the built-in garage (it is not on the basement and the ceiling in it is lower) is more than 1.5 m below the roof of the house. By the time the parents pay the mortgage and need a second nursery, it is planned to build a one and a half floor above the garage from one large room and give it to the eldest daughter.

Calculation of heat loss

The heat losses of rooms 1-4 will be calculated as usual, without taking into account the internal heat transfer in the building. 5 and 6 will be counted on all 4 walls, and even on all 5-6 walls, if we are talking about a non-standard layout. For the calculation we need, in addition to knowing the wall structure and the thickness of its constituent layers in meters, the following values:

1. Thermal resistance of materials Rt or specific heat loss of materials qп.
2. The average January temperature (or the coldest month in your area) can be found in the local weather service or on the Roshydromet website, or on the website of the local municipality.
3. The average temperature for the winter, information - in the same place.
4. The coefficient of seasonal use of boiler power, already applied above.

Note: specific heat losses are sometimes given in kcal / m * hour, then they must be converted to W / m ^ 2, using the relations between joule and calorie and between joule and watt.

In a typical design, heat losses are calculated according to their specific values \u200b\u200band the temperature of the coldest week of the year. The results are accurate enough for large high-rise buildings (Specific heat loss tables, generally speaking, are developed separately for buildings of a similar design). A small private house for heat absolutely definitely needs to be calculated by the thermal resistance of materials. According to the specific heat loss, the private trader can accurately determine the outflow of heat through the cold attic and the front door.

Some data for calculation are shown in Fig. But, generally speaking, Rt and qп should be taken from the material specification. In the same brick and polystyrene, they differ significantly not only from manufacturer to manufacturer, but also from batch to batch. If the supplier does not show the passport of the material or does not contain Rt or qp, it is better to buy somewhere else. This is the case when the avaricious pays not twice, but all his life.

The calculation itself is simple: we multiply the tabular value of Rt for a given material by its layer thickness in meters, take the reciprocal from the result, this is nothing but the thermal conductivity of this layer, and multiply it by the area of \u200b\u200bthe calculated surface and the temperature difference (temperature gradient) for both her side; if on the heat path there are several layers of different materials (eg plaster-brick-insulation), then Rt of each layer are added. As a result, we get the heat loss flux from the room in watts Qp. If the calculation is based on the specific heat loss qп, we multiply their tabular value by the temperature difference and surface area, but it is already more difficult to calculate the multilayer by qп, they need to be reduced to Rt.

The calculation is carried out separately for walls, floors, ceilings, windows and doors. For the maximum temperature gradient ΔT, we take the minimum of the permissible room temperature, and for its minimum:

• For walls and windows - the average January temperature divided by the seasonal coefficient of boiler capacity utilization ξ.
• For the ceiling, the average daily temperature of the coldest week of winter, as calculated by the specific heat loss.
• For the floor - the average winter temperature of the area.

From the point of view of typical design, this method is a perfect heresy. But we will take into account the fact that it does not work in high-rise buildings, namely: the draft of the boiler in a small private house provides a minimum of air exchange with a large excess. Then, as the owners in their own house, let the air into the boiler room in 2 ways: through the slot under the door from the kitchen or the grill with a filter above the floor in the toilet / bathroom, and from the street through the valves in the outer wall.

In mid-cold weather, the boiler room valves are closed. Suddenly, an abnormal frost will strike, we open them, we limit the air inflow to the boiler from the house or completely block it. We provide “breathing” minimum of 7 cubic meters per hour per person: grandfather windows or, more recently, ventilation valves in the rooms. There is no European quality of life here, but closing / opening valves is no more difficult and no more difficult than frying fried eggs. Which Europe also eats. And with this construction of JI, the cost of heating a private house is less than the monthly fee for heat in a city apartment - a reality. Finally, if the owner has his head and hands in place, then who prevents the valves from being equipped with temperature automation? Then everything will be in order with the quality of life.

Put the batteries

What kind?

On sale there are 4 types of heating radiators:

1. Steel thin-walled - the cheapest.
2. Aluminum
3. Bimetal steel-aluminum is the most expensive.
4. Cast-iron, but not the old "accordions", but profiled.

The first are more suitable for regions with mild winters and short heating season. With intense heating, they can corrode, and with it in the system, water hammering is possible, which thin steel does not withstand.

Aluminum batteries give off heat well and provide low thermal inertia of the system; the thermal conductivity of aluminum is very high, and the heat capacity is small. But they are fragile, in regions with abrupt weather changes they can leak from hydroblows. In addition, they are poorly mated with metal pipelines; the coefficient of thermal expansion (TCR) of aluminum is large. It is best to use them in regions north of the chernozem strip, where winter is stably cold, then aluminum deficiencies do not affect.

IN bimetal radiators aluminum sections are strung on a thin strong core made of special steel. Bimetal does not have technical flaws; bimetallic batteries can be used anywhere without restrictions, but they are very expensive.

Cast iron is eternal, water hammer generally ignores, on the cheap - the second after steel. however difficult for need an assistant. And most importantly, it has a very large heat capacity for metal. The thermal inertia of CO and heat loss in it for hysteresis will be large.

Note: all the above and the following tricks of saving heat in the system with "cast iron" are invalid. It must be considered in a typical way.

Calculation of radiators

The calculation of the batteries in the rooms is simple: divide the heat loss found earlier by the thermal power of one section, multiply by a safety factor of 1.2 and round to the nearest largest integer, we get the number of sections per room. But note: it does not say "on the nameplate capacity of the section."

The fact is that the nameplate power is given for a supply temperature of 90 degrees and a return temperature of 70 degrees. In high-rise buildings, this is the optimum. But our CO is not so big and we can reduce the ratio of supply / return temperatures to 80/60 degrees. It is impossible to do less, if the return line cools below 50 degrees, then either the boiler bypass will work (see below) and the money for heat will fly into the pipe, or, even worse, acid condensate may fall in the boiler, which can quickly and completely disable it. What will we achieve with this? Less heat loss from batteries directly into the walls. Significantly smaller, because the heat transfer of a heated body is proportional to 4 degrees of its temperature.

So, for the correct calculation of the batteries, we need to recalculate their power to a lower temperature range. The passport temperature ratio is 90/70 \u003d 1.2857, and our 80/60 \u003d 1.3333. The correction factor for batteries will be (1.2857 / 1.3333) ^ 4 \u003d 0.865. On it and multiply the nameplate power of the section for calculation.

Where to put?

Battery placement is also a delicate matter and requires ingenuity. Take a look at the poses. And the pic, there is a typical one, in niches under the windows. Correctly, by the way, the thermal curtain in front of the window greatly reduces losses through it. Estimated values: bedroom - 4 sections, living room - 8, children's room - 6.

Now we go up to 1 level of ingenuity, pos. B. There are 8 sections left in the living room, 2 to 4. And the heat curtain was not affected: it is created by stacking streams from 2 batteries. But their rear is no longer warm outer wall, and a partition, so that in the nursery 4 sections are enough. 2 - saved, and not only for purchase, but also for boiler capacity, see below.

Are the batteries on the side walls unaesthetic? And instead of the usual window sill, we will put a curly, as they say - creative, shown by a green dotted line. On it you can breed plants, arrange a working area, etc. On pos. B - an option interesting for, for example, SFAD and the Ciscaucasia. There are no batteries at all in the living room (3 comfort zones), and IR emitters in the form of paintings (more on them later), set to 18 degrees, are hung on the walls. Saved another 8 sections, and the consumption of electricity for infrared heating is half the savings on gas.

Note: here the fact that a person emits an average of 60 watts of heat is also affected. The batteries do not feel it, and the sensors of infrared pictures are quite.

About battery shielding

In most cases, batteries still have to be placed in window sills. Then the losses from them directly to the wall can be reduced several times by applying, see the figure on the right. The air visor and the hot-air injector are bent out of tin or thin galvanized, and a piece of fibrous thermal insulation foil on both sides will go to the IR reflector.

Choose a system

Here you need to know that the thermal inertia of CO is less, the faster the water circulates in it. And its circulation rate, in turn, depends on the pressure in the system. As far as the strength of the pipes and batteries allows (taking into account the possibility of water hammer), the pressure should be increased.

Open or closed?

Open, or atmospheric, COs (on the left in the figure below) were built everywhere until recently, they are simple and require a minimum of materials. Now build new JI open type in most countries it is prohibited for the following main reasons, besides which there are many others:

1. To create a pressure of 1 atm (excess atmosphere), which is approximately equal to 1 bar, an expansion tank must be raised by 10.5 m.
2. The expander requires a large volume, which increases the inertia of CO and the risk of water hammer.
3. With any warming of the expander, its heat loss is unacceptably high.
4. Open CO requires regular care and dehydration.

Closed RMs are more complicated and costly to build, but they meet modern requirements and can work without supervision for an unlimited time. The general scheme of closed CO is shown on the right in Fig:

Its part to the right of the cross sections indicated by AA is quite accessible for independent manufacture. The fact that to the left is actually the boiler piping. This is a separate issue, first. Secondly, how many lines of boilers are on sale, so many of them and strapping, described in detail in the company specifications. Therefore, we indicate only, for orientation, the purpose of its parts:

• T1 - bypass (bypass, shunt) of the boiler. If the return temperature drops to 50 degrees, the thermal valve 10 is activated by the sensor 12 and bypasses part of the water from the supply to the return. Bypass valve 5 is shut off if the heating is switched to the emergency-backup electric boiler VIN (see below and below) 14.
• T2 - bypass of the circulation pump (simply pumps) 6. It works from the supply thermometer 3 (the same thermometer is desirable on the return) in case of overheating of the supply due to a pump malfunction or power failure. In this case, CO passes into a weakly heating and uneconomical, but non-volatile thermosiphon mode.
• 2 - system pressure gauge.
• 4 - accumulating vessel (thermal damper), is necessary to prevent water hammer. Most often combined with a hot water boiler, as WITH it is connected not directly, but by a coil-heat exchanger. If the work of CO is provided from alternative source energy (AI) 13, then a second coil is built into the damper, if AI is a solar collector (SC), or a low-voltage heater, if AI is solar battery (Sat).
• 7 - heating radiators.
• 15 - air drain valve, installed at the highest point of the system.
• 8 - distributing and prefabricated collectors are needed to prevent water hammer due to the pressure drop of water along the height of the floor. The number of distributing / collecting branch pipes - according to the number of floors. They are placed approximately in the middle of the height of the building. IN one-story house Not needed.
• 9 - membrane expansion vessel with emergency technological release of water into the sewer. It serves to compensate for the thermal expansion of the coolant.
• 11 - recharge of CO from the water supply. In the simplest case, a float valve and a filter sump. If the water is bad, put additional devices for its preparation. The water treatment system for domestic hot water is not conventionally shown, because does not apply to CO.
• 14 - emergency backup vortex induction heater VIN. It works from a house electrical network or from AI-SB through an inverter DC / AC 220V 50/60 Hz.

How to distribute heat?

The distribution schemes of the coolant for heating devices are, firstly, deadlock and negotiable. In the first, the water flow closes only through batteries, underfloor heating, heated towel rails, etc. Secondly, there is a partial direct flow of water from the supply to the return. Revolving circuits have the least thermal inertia, minimum pipes and allow the boiler to operate without bypass, because the excessively cooling return draws the hot supply from the batteries to itself, but it only works well with very long supply / return branches (beams), therefore it is used mainly in large production rooms: workshops, warehouses.

About lenigrad

In this case, Leningrad is not a variety card game preference, and so-called. Leningrad heat distribution scheme, see fig.

Scheme of JV "Leningrad"

Leningradka is extremely simple, requires a record small number of pipes, and the wiring branches in private houses are often comparable in length to industrial ones. Therefore, the lenigrad has been actively discussed recently in RuNet. You can watch the video below for more details.

Video: Leningradka heating system

• Monotube - batteries are connected in series, the whole tube goes only to the return.
• Two-pipe - batteries are connected in parallel between the supply and return pipes.
• Combined - sequential sections (omissions) are included as separate batteries in a two-pipe circuit.

One pipe

A single-pipe system (see. Fig.) Requires the least amount of materials for construction.

However, it is not widespread due to the following disadvantages:

• The pump P and the bypass of the boiler T are required even in open CO.
• Damper-accumulator A needs a large, from 150 l, capacity, which increases the thermal inertia of CO.
• The battery adjustment is interdependent: if there are more than 3 of them on the beam and they are all different, then you can spend half a season with setting the CO. And you need expensive three-way bypass valves.
• The batteries themselves are heated unevenly, because of this they are prone to self-breathing (the solubility of gases in water increases with decreasing temperature), therefore, each radiator needs a separate air drainage.
• The pump needs twice as much conventional power, from 40-50 watts for every 10 kW of boiler power.

Two pipes

The two-pipe scheme (see. Fig.) Requires more pipes, but less reinforcement, so that it is slightly more expensive than single-pipe materials, only more work is needed on it.

Damper capacity - from 50 l. Some types of gas boilers when operating in a two-pipe scheme with a beam length of up to 12-15 m allow operation without a bypass. The adjustment of the radiators is almost independent, only one is needed. The most common scheme.

Combi

The combined scheme, see Fig., Is almost completely unknown to the “heat-extinguishing” -type specialists, because for one-story houses is not suitable, and with a number of storeys of more than 2, it collects the disadvantages of one and two-pipe.

But just in a 2-storey building, although a circulator with a bypass is necessary here, she has the advantages of both of them:

• Damper - from 50 liters, like a 2-pipe.
• If the upper distribution line M is made of a pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and held under the ceiling (can be hidden under a cornice or plasterboard false ceiling), then the damper is not needed at all.
• If, when planning a building, heating appliances of about the same power are reduced to lowerings, then the entire lowering can be adjusted with one simple ball valve, because the heat loss of the second floor through the ceiling is greater than the first through the floor.

The disadvantage of the “combi-two-story” system is only one: there is no normative calculation procedure. To develop it correctly, you need a lot of experience and professional instinct.

Wiring

There are 2 piping wiring diagrams for devices: a contour (on the left in the figure) and radial beam, in the same place on the right. They have no obvious advantages over each other. Lučevka requires a somewhat smaller footage if the boiler room is in the center of the house, but this is how it will look depending on the layout. In general, if you design according to your conscience or for yourself, and not for the sake of more money, then you need to stop on the contour: suddenly with pipes, you will have to break the floor against the wall, and not in the middle of the room.

About the pipes

The best pipes for CO are propylene. Durability checked by 30 years of experience, do not require additional thermal insulation when walled and in gates. They are not only indifferent to hydroblows, but also extinguish them, because plastic is slightly elastic and very viscous, and the tensile strength of propylene is better than that of other steels. According to TCR, they are perfectly mated with any metals, i.e. propylene tube aluminum batteries can be used anywhere. Not too expensive, but the assembly is simple: you only need to be able to handle a soldering iron for propylene, which is possible. Resistance to water flow is very small, which at the same pressure in CO will give circulation faster and less thermal inertia.

Steel is also not so bad: eternal and cheap. But working with it is difficult: you need welding, a powerful pipe bender, etc. Copper is eternal, you can work with it on the knee: a pipe cutter, a pipe bender, a mandrel for expanding the ends and a scraping (rimer) need small manual ones. Connected by soldering, which is also easy. However, copper is very expensive, it requires insulation of pipes even when wiring through walls and ceilings, and water hammer keeps worse than aluminum. In general, for the rich and ambitious: but I have copper, not something there! Why not gold or silver? They are stronger and more expensive.

Joke from the 90s: Two new Russians meet: “Oh bro, you have a new tie! - Yes, I’ve just given 300 bucks! - Hey, well, you went nuts! There’s a boutique around the corner, they sell exactly the same for 500. "

Metal is generally excluded. Claims that it can be mounted with one adjustable wrench are either lies or ignorance. Need a special tool, the same as for copper. Then, the maximum allowable temperature of the PVC coating is 80 degrees. And most importantly - fittings (connecting accessories) are flowing, even though you crack, and so far no manufacturer has dealt with them. In CO, this is fraught not so much with leakage, but with airing at full speed, which already threatens a real disaster.

About biases

Any CO once would have to work on a thermosiphon, without a pump. In this case, so that the boiler does not overheat and the rooms are warm enough, the installation of the feed with return must be carried out with slopes of 5 mm / m, see Fig. on right. “Pros” crooks often neglect this, hoping for a thermal gradient pressure in the pipes, but for yourself, of course, it is better to try and do it reliably.

Calculation of the boiler

Now you can take up the boiler. With the described approach to the design of CRM, the issues of insufficiency / redundancy of its thermal power in comparison with that of radiators (and these are subtle and complex issues) are not asked. Forced heating, if necessary, will be provided with a supply of supply temperature (we lowered it), and more or less normal operation on a thermosyphon - with a battery and a slope of the pipes. Then the boiler power is calculated easily:

• Add up the power of all heating appliances powered by water from the boiler.
• We multiply by 1.4, we took into account 40% of heat losses for ventilation.
• The result is divided by the seasonal power utilization factor.
• The second result is divided by the efficiency of the previously selected boiler.
• We select the closest one of the largest capacity from the favorite line of boilers.
• If its efficiency is below a predetermined one, repeat the calculation; you may have to take a boiler more powerful or another manufacturer.

For example, for the houses described above, with proper insulation, the total heat loss will be about 8 kW without ventilation. The power of all radiators and other heaters exceeded 9.5 kW. Then: (9.5 * 1.4) / (0.5 * 0.85) \u003d 31.3 kW. We select a 30 kW boiler, and to it - a 3 kW VIN. According to a typical calculation, the output was 40 kW in the form of 2 20-kW boilers, which cost twice as much as one 30-kW with VIN.

Video: example of heating a private house with an area of \u200b\u200b300 sq.m.

Attention: the editors are not responsible for the content and quality of the video!

Electric heating

Here we are not talking about electric boilers, electricity is expensive and you can install them only if there is no fuel at all. It will be about additional water-heating and heating devices. Electric heating with their help in the mezon-season can be cheaper than solid or liquid fuel.

VIN

The VIN, as mentioned above, in its design is an electric transformer with a short-circuited secondary winding, it is also a magnetic circuit. In the product - a piece of steel pipe, on which the primary winding of a thick copper bus is superimposed, see Fig. Eddy currents (Foucault currents from school physics) are induced in the secondary, partially in water, and heat it. WINES are eternal and are distinguished by their rare “oakness”: they are not even afraid of the lightning and nightmare of all electricians — the burning of zero at a substation.

But their main advantage is zero thermal inertia. The contact area of \u200b\u200bthe secondary with water is thousands of times larger than that of the heater, and its volume in the pipe is hundreds of times smaller than in the boiler tank. Due to this, if in the off-season, when the fuel boiler is still breathing at low efficiency, to extinguish it and turn on the VIN, then the cost of electric heating will be less than the cost of coal and comparable to gas.

This is due to the fact that VIN is indifferent to the return temperature. There is no flame in the furnace, there are no exhaust gases, acid fumes simply have nowhere to come from. You can reduce the supply temperature to at least 40 degrees, almost completely eliminating induced heat losses (they, as we recall, are proportional to 4 degrees of battery temperature). In this case, the fuel boiler will burn fuel in vain for distillation of water by bypass.

IR pictures

IR heaters have also been mentioned. They come in 2 types: film (in the left in the figure) and LED (IR-pictures), in the same place in the center and on the right. The first are relatively cheap, these are the same electric fireplaces, only low-temperature ones. Uneconomic, suitable for temporary local heating, say, in the country. In bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity are dangerous.

Infrared heaters - paintings

IR pictures are another matter. They are essentially digital photo frames, i.e. the image can be changed, recorded in your memory. But in IR pictures, each pixel contains, in addition to color (R, G, and B) emitters, infrared. The efficiency of IR LEDs is high, but most importantly, the directivity of radiation is high; back and to the side they almost do not warm. Desired temperature the room is set with the remote control. Therefore, IR pictures can be used for economical heating of rooms in 4-6 zones or even 2-3 in warm areas. One bad thing: these devices are expensive, and very much.

Note: IR emitters are also available and without a picture, ceiling for heating garages and utility rooms. They are cheaper, but not by much.

alternative energy

In the Russian Federation and generally higher than the subtropics in geographical latitude solar alternative heating as the main in the foreseeable future is unpromising: insolation in winter on a clear day does not exceed 300 W / sq. m. Given the efficiency of energy converters, an area of \u200b\u200bpanels of tens and hundreds of square meters is needed. m, that in private homes is unrealistic. For example, the cheapest non-volatile home on 26 square residential ( common room and tiny bedroom + A small kitchenette and a combined bathroom, as in a railway carriage), costs more than $ 500,000.

(APU) are also more expensive have a good home and require a large area for installation, and the earth is becoming more expensive. In addition, winds in Russia are mostly not strong. Solar collectors are of some interest, as you can do them yourself. But homemade hot water is given only in the summer. Branded models that heat water up to 70 degrees in winter are literally crammed with the wonders of high technology and are very expensive.

The device of the solar collector is shown in Fig. in the center. The case of the panel of gas-tight material is carefully sealed and no less thoroughly insulated on all sides except the front one. Blackened with a coil inside special paint, which absorbs heat radiation well and is closed with a 2-5 ply double-glazed window on sealant. Glass is also special, heat-reflecting. Then the panel is filled with argon or carbon dioxide under pressure, the more the better. Known branded models with internal pressure over 10 bar. In this design, a strong greenhouse effect occurs; Collector CPL reaches 78%

Solar batteries - a high-purity silicon layer on a conductive substrate, on which collector tracks are sprayed in vacuum, on the right in Fig. Electricity is generated due to the photoelectric effect in a semiconductor - silicon. The cheapest batteries are made of polycrystalline silicon, but their efficiency is only a few percent, they are suitable for powering the radio in a campaign and recharging finger batteries.

As an AI, monocrystalline silicon (monosilicon) batteries are used for heating; their efficiency is up to 30% or more. They are steadily getting cheaper, and when installed on the roof (on the left in the figure) they are able to develop power in the Moscow Region up to 3-5 kW in winter on a cloudy day, which is enough to power VIN through an inverter. In general, the business is promising, you need to track. Moreover, you do not need to redo the CO to connect VIN.

Finally about stoves

Furnace heating, of course, creates a healthy microclimate in the house, as brick oven breathes and supports optimum humidity air with temperature fluctuations. Can be made to breathe and metal furnaces, lined with steatite mats or just mineral cardboard. And the construction of the furnace will cost no more than a good water WITH.