If you wish, you can make high-quality repairs without the help of specialists, you should learn how to putty the walls with your own hands. This preparatory work has its own subtleties, rules that must be taken into account. You can't do without putty if you need to paint the walls. You will also need to learn how to putty the walls with your own hands if the surfaces are uneven. With the help of putty, it is also carried out, which are required to create an even layer of plaster.
Preparing walls for plastering
Modern materials provide convenience in work, are quite economical, have high strength, durability. But in order to create such a layer, it is necessary to carry out high-quality surface preparation with your own hands. The walls are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt. If there are no rust stains, mold, areas of old putty, it is enough to wash the surface using soap, powder, detergents. This will not only remove dirt, but also degrease the walls to ensure reliable adhesive putty with surface. It should be noted that the layer thickness should not exceed 5 mm. Therefore, if there are potholes on the wall, the recesses are deeper, you must first level them with plaster. Before puttingtying, it is desirable to apply a primer layer. It is necessary to prevent the absorption of putty into the walls. This makes it possible to reduce material consumption. On a primed base, putty is distributed more efficiently, evenly, which allows you to create an ideal surface without spending a lot of time and effort on final sanding. from drywall with your own hands, provides for the mandatory creation of a preliminary layer of primer.
Wall putty materials
The quality of the result and ease of use depend on the choice of putty. Therefore, it is important to know the features of their species. Let's find out.
According to their composition, materials can be:
- Cement
- plaster
- Polymer
Putties made on the basis of cement, have high strength. The surface is resistant to moisture, so it will perfectly withstand the adverse conditions of the bathroom, bathroom. The disadvantages of putty include a high degree of shrinkage, the need to accurately observe the ratio of components during preparation, high cost. FROM gypsum putties easier to work with, they practically do not shrink. But use them indoors with high humidity it is forbidden. Polymer materials are considered universal. They create a durable layer resistant to moisture. According to the purpose of putty are divided into:
- Starting
- Finishing
- Universal
The starting materials contain large inclusions, which allows you to create layers up to 5 mm thick. This makes it possible to qualitatively level the wall, fill cracks, small dents. Subsequent surface coating finishing putty ensures a perfectly even layer, as there are no foreign inclusions in the material.
How to putty the walls in the apartment with your own hands
When using dry putty in the work, the solution must be properly prepared. The proportions of powder and water are indicated on the packaging of the product. In creating the mixture, you will need a container with a flat bottom in which kneading is carried out, a plastic bucket, a steelyard. For high-quality mixing, you can use a drill and a mixer attachment. When determining the amount of putty, you need to focus on the type of material, its curing time. Some funds can retain their properties for more than a day.
the process of mixing putty with a drill with a mixer The work will require special tools:
- Master OK
- Spatula wide
- Spatula narrow
- Rubber spatula
photo of some tools that are needed for puttying walls. (spatulas, a drill with a mixer, a container for mixing putty) A trowel is used to spread the material before applying putty to the wall. The mixture is spread with a spatula, which must be held at an angle. The greater the slope of its plane, the thicker the layer is obtained. A narrow spatula is used to level the surface with your own hands, a tool with a rubber working plane is used to repair small defects that accidentally form during work. While working with starting putty, achieve perfect result not necessary. After this layer has completely dried, it is sanded with coarse sandpaper or a jointer with an abrasive mesh. №60-80 . Finishing layer applied more carefully. Its thickness is only 2 mm. Therefore, during subsequent sanding, care must be taken not to completely remove the plaster. After this final stage, the walls can be painted or wallpapered.
How to align the corners with putty with your own hands
In carrying out repair work in the room, corners require special attention. Any violations, defects will be noticeable after painting, will create problems when pasting walls with wallpaper. You can fix them with putty. If preparatory work is being carried out for finishing plasterboard surfaces, it is advisable to use a sickle. This special mesh is processed adhesive composition and therefore does not require special means for fixation. If necessary, create ideal internal or external corners, with putty, you can use a special angle spatula. It is superimposed on a layer of putty applied to the edges of the walls, and the material is smeared over the surface. The result is a flat 90° angle. After 12 hours, sand the surface with sandpaper. Now you know how to putty corners. It is important to consider that the putty layer should not be thicker 5 mm. If more thorough alignment is required, pre-plastering () is used. Working with putty is not very difficult, but requires certain skills. Therefore, before you putty the walls in the apartment with your own hands , it is worth a little practice, try to apply the material and distribute it, choose correct angle tilt the spatula, learn how to create the desired consistency. Video: how to putty
Of course, you can find even walls in apartments, but the percentage of such walls is still minimal. In this situation, there is only one way - leveling with plaster and putty, which will help prepare them for further finishing. How to properly putty walls for different types finishes, we will try to tell you more in the article below.
Why is it needed
Puttying the walls to absolute smoothness is not always necessary. For example, if you plan to decorate the surface with wallpaper that can hide minor scratches from stripping. Putty makes it possible to get rid of pits and cracks on the wall, level it and, if necessary, bring it to a perfectly smooth state.
In any other cases, such work should be carried out without fail:
- It is much easier to glue wallpaper on even walls than on curved ones. The glue is absorbed evenly, the risk of wrinkling of the canvas is reduced to zero.
- Putty will remove various tubercles from the plastered walls, which will be visible in sunlight, due to which the surface will turn out to be pimply.
Tip: the rules for wall puttying say that if the old putty crumbles after removing the old wallpaper from the walls, it should be completely removed and the surface puttyed again.
Training
Before you learn how to properly putty the walls, you need to prepare the surface for work:
- Clean the ceiling and walls from splashes of mortar, paint, soot, plaster starting to peel off.
- Degrease the surface, removing grease and wax stains from it.
- Apply one coat of primer to the walls and ceiling.
Work can be continued only after the soil has dried. Putty is offered in two types - dry in bags, when the instructions on the package indicate the correct ratio of material to water, and ready-to-use in a plastic tightly closed container.
For rooms with high humidity, the marking is LR, for ordinary rooms - KR. The service life of each mixture is different for each manufacturer.
Tip: do not dilute in large portions, as they set quickly. It is necessary to prepare the mixture only in clean dishes.
We putty the walls
Below will be given tips that will tell you how to properly putty the walls with your own hands:
Prepare:
- two spatulas - up to 150 mm and up to 600 mm;
- container for cooking;
- sandpaper and sandpaper.
So, let's begin:
- If you don’t know where to start properly puttying the walls, then take a rubber spatula and close the holes on the surface with it, and wait until the work dries.
- Take the prepared putty from the container with a small spatula and apply it to the wall in a thick strip about 20 mm thick on a large spatula. Keep the latter as you like, there are no rules in this case.
- Start the action from the corner to the middle of the surface, for which, with a large spatula, draw a stretching motion over it. Then remove the remaining mortar from the large spatula and draw it again with a stretching movement in the same place, from the corner to the middle, to remove excess putty from the wall.
- Remove excess from a large spatula with a small one, and again stretch the solution with a strip over a large spatula. Repeat the previous steps on the new section of the wall.
Tip: Apply the next layer slightly overlapping the previous one.
- Puttying the middle of the wall is carried out somewhat differently from its bottom. Applying the mortar and removing it from the spatula is no different, but now the wall is puttied from the bottom up.
Excess solution is removed from the surface from top to bottom using semicircular movements:
- a small arc along the drawn strip;
- removing putty with a small spatula from a large one;
- again make a semicircular movement from top to bottom with a wide grip, etc.
Remember - apply from the bottom up, and remove the excess solution from the top down.
Tip: if bubbles and bulges form on the surface during work, do not level anything, wait until the solution dries. Then you can sand everything with sandpaper. Make sure that there are no depressions and pits.
With a very uneven surface, it may be necessary to putty it in several layers. Each subsequent one should be applied only after the previous one has dried, sanded and primed. The thickness of the next layer is not more than 1-2 mm.
Price finishing putty significantly more expensive than the starting plaster, so it is not advisable to make 3 layers for it. The best option- it is good to pre-align the walls with plaster on the lighthouses.
Tip: puttying for painting implies a perfectly smooth surface after puttying and sanding.
Mixture consumption per 1 sq. m for each manufacturer is different, in addition, other working conditions also affect this parameter. Usually the minimum indicator is indicated on the package. You should also check the expiration date of the product, if expired plaster can still be used, then there is no putty.
Tip: to finish preparing the walls for wallpaper or for painting, take a gypsum-based putty.
- under wallpaper. Check the walls for unevenness, for which use building rule. Attach it with an edge to the wall - where there will be a gap between it and the tool, then there is a defect.
Tip: putty vertical irregularities vertically (from bottom to top), horizontal - horizontally, so that the solution better closes them.
- Do not apply a layer thicker than 5 mm, as it may not have time to dry, due to which it will crack and peel off. Focus on the indicator indicated on the package. The correct putty of the walls will turn out if you hold the spatula at an angle of 30˚.
In the photo - preliminary preparation of the walls for wallpaper
- You can start the process from below or from under the ceiling.
- In the corners, it is more convenient to use a small spatula, moving it from the corner.
- Grinding is carried out on a dried surface with sandpaper with No. 80-120. small scratches you can leave, the wallpaper will hide them.
Conclusion
From the article, you learned how to properly putty plastered walls so that material consumption is minimal. You also realized that even walls in the room not only look beautiful, but also a pleasure to work with.
It also helps to prepare them for the final decoration by its subsequent polishing. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.
We continue our series of articles about puttying walls with our own hands. Today we'll talk about spatula ordinary walls- brick or panel (but not drywall), although the process schemes are similar.
Classification and types of putties
Putties are classified into gypsum, cement and polymer.
Disadvantages and advantages of each type.
- On the plaster base: they are low cost, they are perfectly aligned and do not shrink. As a disadvantage, low resistance to moisture can be noted here, which limits the scope of their application. Gypsum wall putties should be used in dry rooms, and their use in rooms with high humidity or with a large temperature difference is unacceptable. The cost of one bag (20 kg) averages from 250 rubles.
- Cement: have a high degree resistance to moisture, but the degree of their shrinkage is just as high. This requires re-sanding. You can use such mixtures in rooms with high humidity, such as a kitchen or bathroom.(read the article about wall putty for wallpaper). Cement wall putties only become stronger when dried, but eventually lose their elasticity, which can lead to the appearance of microcracks. The price for this type of putty starts from about 200 rubles / bag (25 kg).
- Polymer: have a lot of advantages: they perfectly resist moisture, do not shrink, and allow achieving high quality of the treated surfaces. The disadvantage here can only be considered a high cost - starting from 290 rubles / bag (20 kg).
- Leveling: are intended for alignment of walls after putting plaster. They have a high grain size, good strength and an excellent degree of adhesion to the surface. The recommended layer thickness is from 3 to 20 mm. Price: from 230 rubles / bag (20 kg).
- To obtain a perfectly smooth surface and eliminate small flaws after leveling the walls, use finishing mixes. In terms of strength, they are inferior to leveling putties. Applying them is not difficult. Recommended layer up to 4mm. The cost is from 280 rubles / bag (20 kg).
- Universal Mixes combine the properties of finishing and leveling wall putty, but at the same time costing more - from 320 rubles / bag (20 kg). They are used on surfaces with minor flaws, because. the quality is somewhat inferior to both types.
In addition to the composition putties are divided into leveling, finishing (for example, for the last stage of putty) and universal.
Putties are available in dry form, as well as in the form of ready-made consistency. Dry putties are stored much longer and cost an order of magnitude cheaper than ready-made mixtures.
They are produced in special bags. Their preparation is not laborious: the powder is simply diluted with water using a special mixer in accordance with the instructions on the package. Of course, the use finished composition much more convenient. However, if the applied layer is less than 2 mm, then such mixtures cannot be used. They also give a lot of shrinkage. Ready putty compositions are produced in special plastic buckets.
What putty to choose to putty the walls?
When asked which putty to choose for walls for wallpaper, we can say that when choosing putty, you should take into account the working conditions, the quality of the surface to be treated and the desired result. To purchase quality material, you should make purchases in branded hardware stores.
You should not go to all kinds of markets for the sake of economy. It is there that the risk of acquiring counterfeit products is high. A simple tip when choosing putty: you should pay attention to the date of packaging. It is applied to the nearest second. If you notice that the entire batch is packed in an instant, then most likely it is better to refuse such a purchase.
In general, the putty has a shelf life of 6 to 12 months in dry rooms with room temperature. After the expiration date, the putty loses its properties - it stops setting quickly. When buying, you should pay attention not only to the date of manufacture, but also to the integrity of the packaging. Dry mix bags should not be damaged, and buckets with ready solution must be tightly closed.
Scheme of work with a grinding bar
Video instruction
Instructions: how to putty the walls yourself
To putty the walls with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:
- A drill with a "mixer" nozzle and a container for diluting the composition (required when using a dry mix).
- Set of spatulas: small, large, angled. At work, you have to deal with various sites surfaces - each of them has its own spatula. Spatulas come in 20mm, 40, 60, 80, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800mm. Narrow up to 80mm are used for hard-to-reach places. Spatulas with a width of 80 and 100 mm are called type-setting - with their help, the mixture is taken out of the bucket and applied to the working spatula. Spatulas with a width of 200 and 300 mm are used to level irregularities that are small in width and length. Wider spatulas are used for leveling heavily curved surfaces.
- Rollers or brushes. They are necessary for priming walls for putty. The primer should not be skipped, as this improves the adhesion of the mixture to the surface and improves the quality of the work.
- The rule is to be needed in places where putty is applied in a thick layer. long metal rule convenient when leveling thick layers of putty from the walls. Rules come in different lengths - 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m. The optimal rule is considered to be 2m long. However, it is better to choose a convenient size of the rule individually.
- Level for establishing test beacons (as for) before applying the starting putty to the walls. Levels come in lengths from 20cm to 2.5m. For domestic purposes, it is not necessary to buy the largest, a level from 0.5 m to 1 m is quite enough.
- Sandpaper - for a perfectly smooth surface. It is better to buy skins with a grain of 60 to 100. A skin of 60 is suitable for the base stage (you should not take less than 60, because it will be too rough), and a fine 100 for grouting the finishing layer (skin above 100 will be heavily clogged with dust). It is more convenient to grout the walls after puttying using a manual skinner.
Wall surface preparation
Falling layers of plaster should be removed
Before applying wall putty for wallpaper, prepare the surface to be treated. It must be absolutely clean without stains of grease, soot, paint, etc. Falling layers of plaster should be removed. It is strongly not recommended to start work if the walls or ceiling are frozen.
Before puttying the walls, it is necessary to apply a primer to improve adhesion. One layer of primer is sufficient.
Starting putty of the wall surface
The plaster is made using special beacons, which help to apply the mortar more evenly.
Starting putty is performed using coarse material (starting putty). It is convenient to use such material with large wall differences to hide irregularities, remove strobes and holes. The thickness of such a layer applied at a time can be up to 1.5 cm. To apply subsequent layers, it is necessary to wait for the previous one to dry.
If the differences in the level of the walls are more than 5 cm, then in this case, before applying the putty, the walls are plastered. The plaster is made using special beacons, which help to apply the mortar more evenly. Before applying the plaster, the walls are primed with a special solution, and before each layer of plastering, they are additionally sprayed with water. The plaster is applied with a special spatula with a sharp wave of the hand. For better adhesion with the subsequent layer, the first layer should be slightly roughened. As a rule, all movements are performed from the bottom up. After applying the plaster, it is leveled by the rule.
Often, to obtain a high result, a special painting grid is used.
Often, to obtain a high result, a special painting grid is used. It is mounted on the wall (read good article pro), and putty is already applied on top (or plaster, if necessary). In this case, the putty fits better, and the surface becomes much stronger and smoother. The paint mesh is attached to the first layer of putty, without waiting for it to dry. The prepared piece of mesh is pressed into the still wet putty layer. After drying, a second layer of putty is applied. Thus, the grid remains in the middle of the leveling putty layer. The tensile strength of such a layer increases several times, which avoids the appearance of cracks.
Finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, while eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks.
How to putty: finishing stage
After completion of the starting stage, it is necessary to apply finishing putty to the wall. Its main goal is to make the surface perfectly smooth and beautiful. If the starting putty was performed poorly, then with the help of the finishing mixture it will not be possible to correct the situation. Finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, while eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks. Therefore, before finishing, you should achieve a perfectly flat surface.
For smooth corners, use an angled trowel.
- When using a dry mix, it is necessary to correctly prepare the solution. It should be uniform and slightly stick to the spatula.
- With a large spatula at an angle of 30̊, apply the starting putty in small portions. Putty should be applied diagonally, making each next stroke overlap to avoid transitions and bumps.
- For smooth corners, use an angled trowel. To begin with, with a small spatula, apply the mixture over the entire height of the corner. Then, using an angled spatula, level the surface of the corner.
- After the starting layer has completely dried, a finishing putty is applied using a small and large spatula. With a small spatula, the mixture is applied in small portions to a large one and evenly applied to the surface. The layer thickness is about 1.5-2mm.
- After the putty has completely dried (it takes about 12 hours), you can start finishing sanding with a fine sandpaper.
In order to putty the walls with your own hands, it is important to perform all stages of work with high quality and responsibly. In this case, you can get excellent result and save a lot on labor.
Good luck with your repair!
If you decide to putty the walls with your own hands and do not resort to the help of a specialist, then in this article you will find a lot for yourself. useful information. Let's figure out how to properly putty walls for wallpaper, for painting. Of course, the matter is not simple and requires skill, but we will try to understand the question “how to putty walls?” I will not teach you how to hold a spatula and somehow especially drive it, you will learn all this yourself in the process of work. If a question is not covered, do not hesitate to ask it in the comments.
What is putty
Putty is a finishing material that is used to level small defects and create a uniform surface structure. It mainly consists of gypsum, acrylic and polymer materials.
Why putty walls
The walls are puttied in order to remove and even out minor surface defects, to improve adhesion. Putty performs very well the function of preparation for finishing. In addition to the leveling qualities, putty is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and well processed or polished.
Putty or putty which is correct?
Especially for those who argue for correct writing. In dictionaries, the words putty and putty have the same lexical meanings so both are correct. But there is one thing, but ... In most construction literature and official information sources, the option (putty) is used. It is up to you to decide which option is more convenient for consumption, but still, it is more fair to say - putty! But in this article, for certain reasons, I will use two options.
Types of putty for walls
And so, how to make the right choice when buying. First, let's figure out what types it is. We conditionally divide the types of putties into 4 types. For convenience, we will consider them in this form:
- Starting
- Finishing
- facade
To understand what kind of putty you need and in what quantity, you need to build on two factors:
- What kind of surface is
- What finish will be at the finish
All possible options consider below, but for now let's talk about the types of putty
Starting putty
Designed for rough alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. The starting putty fills small and deep cracks well and does not shrink when dried. The composition mainly includes gypsum and acrylic additives. Well covers plastered surfaces, well suited for preparation for wallpaper or fiberglass (cobweb).
Finishing putty
Designed for the final alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. B consists mainly of polymers, therefore it does not have a large grain size. When filling deep scratches, it shrinks significantly after drying. It is mainly used on the final layers in preparation for painting, decorative fine coatings. Good for fiberglass reinforcement.
Putties for special applications
This type includes all other varieties that will be useful to us in the repair. These are putties for sealing factory and non-factory drywall joints, for reinforcing and filling various joints and cracks. They dry quickly for ease of use, practically do not shrink, and have increased strength.
Facade putty
The scope of their application is clear from the name. The composition contains cement, therefore it has a greenish tint and is often called cement putty. It is applied in damp rooms, loggias, in basements and on facades. It is frost-resistant at drying and has the increased durability.
What putty to choose
So still, which putty to choose? A few words about the composition and frequently asked questions.
Choosing a putty according to the composition
Here I’ll tell you what putties are in composition and which of the above types I can attribute them to. At the same time I will answer frequently asked questions. I think everything will fall into place here.
Gypsum putty
The main composition is gypsum, the rest is plasticizers and all kinds of additives. Gypsum itself has a coarse fraction compared to other types of putties. Therefore, it belongs to the type of starting finishing materials, well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough decorative trim.
Acrylic putty
Acrylic is such a versatile material that can be used in the production of putties of any kind, both starting dry and finishing in buckets. As well as acrylic putties are widely used in the processing of wood car bodies, etc. Therefore, it is probably not correct to use the concept of "acrylic putty" for a specific application. In this case, it can be both a start and a finish. Very often used in the production of putty on wood.
Latex putty
Think for yourself, latex is rubber. Therefore, putty for wall decoration cannot be rubber, it simply contains a latex component. This putty is very flexible and can be used in wet areas, although it all depends on the manufacturer.
Polymer putty
Basically, these are all finishing putties, except for gypsum. Acrylic and vinyl are also polymers, so acrylic and vinyl putty can also be called polymer putty.
Dry putty for walls
This is the starting material, mainly plaster and acrylic. Again, suitable for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and decor.
What putty to choose for painting
The wall is prepared for painting as follows:
If the plaster is on the wall - 2 layers of starting gypsum putty, primer, if required, glue the cobweb or reinforcing mesh and 3 layers of finishing finished putty, grind and you're done. If you are interested in specifics, then I use acryl-putz starting at the beginning and rotband pasta or sheetrock at the finish. It's about quality paint. If high-quality painting is not needed, then you can putty 3 layers of starting putty, grind and paint.
What putty to choose for wallpaper
Under the wallpaper I use a starting putty that comes dry in bags. If we putty plaster, then basically 3 layers of gypsum or acrylic starting putty are enough. I can recommend acryl-putz, miners, typhoon, knauf. (if they are sold in your regions). Pay attention to the price, cheap material is almost always bad. How to putty the walls under the wallpaper, we'll talk a little later.
Putty start-finish
Positioned as a universal putty. Very well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough painting. As a finishing putty on the cobweb, this mixture will not work, I also do not recommend it for finishing for painting ceilings and slopes. Finishing putty should be ready-made in polymer-based buckets, and not dry. There are no universal putties that perform their function well everywhere.
The best finishing putty
For a long time working in the field of decoration, I tried to work with different brands. operated them in different conditions and on different surfaces. As for the finishing putty, I can safely say that you need to take Knauf rotband pasta, sheetrock, Bostik finspakel (it hardens very much) Often the finishing putty is called “ready putty for walls”
Summing up the choice
A short selection of putty. For those who are too lazy to read the entire article, who just need to know the number of layers and what kind of putty to buy:
| Type of training | Work order |
|---|---|
| under the wallpaper | 3 layers of starter |
| for painting | 2 layers of starting, cobweb, 3 layers of finishing |
| under decorative coating rough | 2 layers of starting, mesh reinforcement, 1 layer of starting |
| for decorative coating finely dispersed | 2 layers of starting, reinforcement, 3 layers of finishing |
| slopes | 2 start, web, 3 finish |
| GKL for painting | finishing of seams with special putties, cobwebs, 3 layers of finishing |
| GKL under wallpaper | finishing of seams, finishing of seams with finishing putty |
| loggia | 3 layers of facade (if you really need to putty, and it's damp on the balcony) |
| basement | if very damp facade putty 3 layers. |
| bathroom | although not recommended, I use the usual technology, as in other rooms. But you can paint it with moisture resistant paint. |
We will discuss this in more detail in the following chapters.
Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces
And so, how to calculate the putty for the walls ... To begin with, let's figure out what surface we have, if these are plastered walls, then the consumption will increase significantly. Drywall walls will not require a lot of putty, but they will require a special putty for fugen, uniflot joints.
Putty consumption per m2
The average consumption of the starting putty, indicated by the manufacturers, is 1kg-1.2kg per m2 of the wall with a layer thickness of 0.6-3mm. Putty consumption per 1 m2 of wall is a very approximate parameter.
Basically, the consumption depends on the characteristics of the wall (state, porosity), the experience of the “specialist” also plays a significant role
The consumption of finishing putty per m2 of the wall is slightly less, 0.3-0.5 kg with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm. Again, it all depends on the surface being treated. For example, the consumption of putty on the gossamer will be much more than stated and will be approximately 0.5 kg per m2.
You will not be able to calculate the exact amount of putty, so we take the average figures, multiply by the number of layers (thickness mm) and multiply by the quadrature of the walls. For example, if the total area of the walls of the room is 40m2 and we need to prepare it for wallpaper, then we take the indicator 1kg and multiply it by the number of layers (3 layers of 0.6mm = 1.8mm) and multiply by 40m2
1kg*1.8mm*40m2= 72kg
One bag of putty usually weighs 25kg, so we need 3 bags of dry starter putty per 40m2 room.
Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints "fugenfüller" and "uniflot"
I recommend sealing factory seams with fugen knauf, and not with factory seams (cut) uniflot. There are usually not so many non-factory seams, therefore we buy the smallest volume of “uniflot” 5 kg. As for the Factory seams, the Fugenfüller consumption is approximately 1 kg per 4m2 of mounted drywall.
How to putty walls (tool)
How to putty walls? The main thing we need from the tool:
- Spatula 10 cm
- Spatula 35 cm or metal grater, trowel.
- Mixer, whisk
- Roller and brush for primer
- Grinding grater, sandpaper
- Masking tape, knife, blades
- Water tank
- Lighting, spotlight
- A vacuum cleaner
Paying attention! All spatulas, trowels, roller handles must be rust-free. So they will serve you much longer and there will be no problems with rusty spots on the walls.
Preparation for putty
Any leveling of walls with putty begins with preparation. Wall preparation is a very important stage, it will depend on how well the subsequent finishing materials will hold. The surface should be well cleaned of debris, old wallpaper, everything that does not hold well and crumbles. All nails and protruding mortar are removed if it is plaster.
Next comes the surface primer, the wall should be well saturated with a deep penetration primer and wait for it to dry completely, it is advisable to wait at least four hours, and even better, continue work the next day. The primer should not only absorb and dry, but also polymerize.
How to remove old putty from walls
If you need to remove the old putty, because it does not hold well, then a 10 cm spatula and, for example, a hatchet are enough. If the putty is holding well, you can try to wet it several times with water. It is good to prescribe, and again try to remove it with a spatula.
If the putty is well primed, not removed and not soaked, then there are only two options.
- Knock down with a perforator to the plaster (then you will need to plaster the surface)
- The second option is to make notches with a hatchet, prime with a deep penetration primer, wait until it dries completely, and then cover the entire wall with primer (sandy soil)
Puttying various surfaces for different finishes
putty various surfaces at its core, this is the same process, the difference is only in the preparation and number of layers. I’ll tell you about the puttying technique itself in another chapter, and in this one we will talk about the preparation and number of layers.
How to putty drywall
We’ll talk more about the puttying technology itself in the chapter “do-it-yourself wall putty ( step-by-step instruction)". We start with the preparation of drywall. The preparation includes sealing the seams with sickle tape or paper tape. At this stage, we will need a putty for a special application (basically, this application is the sealing of HL joints). To seal the factory joints of HL, we use knauf fugen. For non-factory seams, we use knauf uniflot.
Drywall primer before puttying
We evenly apply the primer on the wall with a roller, be sure to evenly and without smudges, prime all seams and corners with a brush. We are waiting for complete drying!
Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties
This is a special putty for drywall designed by Knauf, which practically does not shrink and performs its function very well. We glue the sickle tape on the factory seams, we coat the fugen knauf factory seams, and not the uniflot knauf factory seams. If we use paper tape, then first we coat the seams with putty, then we glue the tape and push it deep into the layer with a spatula. Non-factory seams should have expansion gaps, and the cardboard edges should be cut on each side at 45 degrees.
How to knead the fugenfüller is read on the package. I draw your attention to the fact that you need to knead only in clean water and only by hand.
Puttying drywall before wallpapering
We are waiting for the complete drying of the sealed seams, we clean the excess and small sagging with a 35 cm spatula. We knead the starting putty and go through all the seams again. We are waiting for complete drying, then we clean all the seams with coarse sandpaper 80P-100P. Then re-priming the entire wall.
Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering? Usually, the sealed seams should be enough for subsequent wallpapering (be sure to putty the seams with a starting putty after the fugen dries). But, if you have very thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to putty the entire wall of GKL with a finished finishing putty in three layers. I recommend using knauf rotband pasta or sheetrock finishing putty. We clean it with an emery abrasive 140-180P, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and re-primer.
Plasterboard plasterboard for painting
Seams are closed in the above way. The seams must be cleaned and the entire wall primed. For high-quality painting, we use a cobweb, glue it on Bostik glue (I wrote about this in an article about gluing cobwebs) Then we putty the cobweb into three layers and clean it with sandpaper 180-240R. Instead of a cobweb, you can glue a paint grid with a 2x2 cell.
If you are not very interested in quality, but savings are required, then you can simply clean the seams and paint with a long-nap roller. It will turn out a little better if you putty another 2 layers with finishing putty, clean it up 180r.
Wall putty for painting
The technology of puttying walls for painting does not differ from others, only the number of layers, the presence of reinforcing material (if high-quality painting), the number of sandpaper when cleaning the putty differ.
If the surface is plastered, then the sequence of work should look like this:
- Preparation, primer
- 2-3 layers of starting putty (depending on the quality of the plaster)
- Rough sanding with 80R sandpaper
- Dusting, priming
- Fiberglass (cobweb) is glued, or reinforcing mesh (glued to the finishing putty)
- Then 2-3 layers of finishing finished putty
- Grinding with sandpaper 180-240R
- Dedusting, vacuuming, priming (white primer)
Puttying fiberglass before painting
Many people ask the question, is it possible to putty fiberglass? In fact, these are glass wallpapers and many simply paint them, but I will tell you that this is complete nonsense. Practice shows that puttying a cobweb is not only possible, but necessary!
Here only ready-made putty for walls (finishing) will be used. We putty the first layer “on the strip”, hammer it in, smooth the putty into all the pores of the cobweb in different directions and completely remove it. We putty under good consecration, we make sure that there are no gaps. We try not to drive with a spatula for a long time if the cobweb Bad quality, then it will soak and reach for the spatula. The next two applications of putty are applied with a thin, neat layer.
How to putty the walls under the wallpaper
Puttying the walls for wallpaper is the hundredth easiest preparation, in my opinion. Reinforcement is not required if the wallpaper is thick, even finishing putty is not required. Easily rubbed with coarse sandpaper. The main thing is to observe the minimum technology, which I will describe below.
- We clean, dedust the wall
- Separately close up large pits and cracks
- The first layer is applied
- After drying, the wall is cleaned with a spatula from excess debris.
- Apply 2 layers
- Cleaned with sandpaper 100-120R
- Dedusted
- Prime with white primer, wait for complete drying
I recommend buying thick non-woven wallpaper, they are easier to apply and better hide the small nuances of the walls. Finishing putty under the wallpaper is needed if the wallpaper is very thin and any defects will be visible. This also applies to photo wallpapers, it is also desirable to use finishing putty under them.
Puttying concrete walls
Puttying concrete walls without plaster is permissible in panel houses with relatively smooth walls, in other cases plastering of surfaces is required. It is enough to prepare well, remove everything superfluous from the wall, prime. Then, using 3 layers of starting putty, prepare for wallpaper.
Putty on penoplex (how to putty penoplex)
I don’t know what situation a person should have in order for him to need to putty penoplex, but often such questions come to our mail. Most likely, a person does not understand what putty is and does not have a clue how penoplex gets off. Or maybe he just needs to finish the facade, or the loggia, and he calls it all foam putty ... I don’t know, but I’ll write a few words about this.
Penoplex cannot be putty with materials for interior decoration, and in this article, we are talking about it. Consider the option of a loggia, for example, we have it insulated with foam plastic, dubbed and we need to prepare the surface for painting.
We cover with glue for insulation all the holes and hats from the dowel-nails. We glue the facade mesh, grind everything with plaster. After complete drying, primer. Now the walls can be puttied with cement facade putty. Personally, I recommend not to putty with cheap facade mixtures, but in this case it is best to use decorative plaster(e.g. 1.5mm pebble)
Facade putty should be ground immediately after complete drying. If you wait a couple of days, then the emery abrasive will not take it.
Putty plastered walls
The plastered wall must be well cleaned with a 35 cm spatula, all sagging and everything that is pouring should be removed. Then the entire wall should be well primed and wait for complete drying. If we cook under the wallpaper, then we putty the starting putty into 3 layers. We coat all the cracks well with the first layer, fill in all the irregularities of the plaster, often such a first layer is called “puttying on a peel”. This is followed by 2 layers approximately 1mm thick. After drying, grind and primer (if under the wallpaper). If for painting, then we prepare the wall further, I will describe in more detail in the chapter “putty for painting”
Is it possible to putty on the paint
It is not advisable to putty on the paint. If you need to putty acrylic paint, then first you need to make sure that it holds well, then prime it well and wait for it to dry completely. Now it is permissible to putty on a few layers of finishing putty.
If you need to putty oil paint and there are no other options, then you need to cover it sandy soil(e.g. Caparol Putzgrund 610) after which the surface can be filled in several layers. I repeat, it is not advisable to putty the paint, it is recommended to remove it.
Putty without plaster
If you do not want to level the walls with plaster, but simply putty the walls with your own hands and stick wallpaper, then first check how crooked the walls are. This can be done using a level or a rule. If the curvature is not very large and the quality of wallpapering is of little interest to you, then you can simply putty on 3 layers and grind it with a large 80R sandpaper. We use putty exclusively starting.
How to putty a balcony (loggia)
Such cold rooms are usually finished with facade materials, so facade putty is suitable for us. The composition of the facade putty includes cement, so it has a fairly large fraction. I recommend using high-quality expensive material (for example, Caparol) Cheap - when grinding the emery, it spills out in spots and behaves poorly when applied. If you need to finish the loggia, it is better to use decorative plaster on the walls.
Do-it-yourself wall putty (step by step instructions)
Here we will talk about how to putty the walls with your own hands step by step. We have already talked about preparing different surfaces etc. in the following chapters, we will take a closer look at the putty technology itself and talk again about preparing for wallpaper, painting, and learn how to properly apply putty.
We carry out works in dry rooms with a temperature from +5 to +25. The material is transported at the same temperature.
Step 1: preparing the walls
I already wrote about the preparation of the walls above in the chapter “preparation for putty” here I will repeat a little so as not to confuse everything even more. We clean the walls with a 35 cm spatula (preferably an old one) after such cleaning, the spatula is not very suitable for subsequent puttying. We clean the corners well, often after plastering the corners are slightly rounded. Pay attention to the connection to the ceiling and floor. The plane should be flat and neatly adjacent to adjacent walls and ceilings.
Step 2: priming the walls before puttying
Which primer is best? The soil should be a block of impregnation, I recommend Caparol Tiefgrund, ceresit st17. Although any concentrated primer of deep impregnation is not bad. We dilute the primer according to the instructions, pour it into a bucket or bath and use a brush to impregnate all the corners and adjoining walls. Then, using a roller, apply a primer to all surfaces requiring puttying. The primer of the walls for puttying is done evenly. We are waiting for complete drying from four hours, but preferably a day.
Step 3: how to spread putty
Pour about 2 liters into the bucket clean water and pour 5 kg of dry putty (all figures depend on the manufacturer). Then use a mixer or whisk with a drill, mix everything until smooth. If required, add water or putty to achieve the desired density. If putty is taken on a 10 cm spatula and turned over, then it should not drain. Also, the solution should not be very thick, but well elastic. After the first mixing, wait 3-4 minutes and mix again. After that, the solution is ready for use. The solution should resemble thick sour cream.
If you want to putty with a finished type of putty, then I recommend adding 0.5 liters of clean water to a 10-liter bucket and mix with a mixer. Putty will become more elastic and more convenient to apply
Step 4: putty technology
Finishing and starting putty is applied essentially the same, the difference is only in the thickness of the application.
How to apply putty
If there are large potholes and cracks on the wall, then we putty them in advance and wait until everything dries. Then we apply putty in an even layer on a 35 cm spatula and, starting from the corner, we begin to put putty on the wall. If the wall is plastered, then after application we remove the putty “on the strip” with a spatula so that the first layer penetrates only into all small cracks and irregularities.
Do not forget that we are leveling the walls with putty, so we try to fill in all the holes and small irregularities
After the first layer has dried, we re-clean the wall with a spatula from particles of excess sand putty from plaster and other debris. Then we evenly apply the second layer of putty, but we do not remove it completely, but apply a layer of approximately 0.5 mm, in places of irregularities the layer can reach up to 5 mm.
We putty necessarily with good consecration, preferably under a spotlight or a light bulb.
The third layer can be applied without waiting for the second layer to dry completely. We apply each layer in different directions so that the final movement of the spatula does not coincide with the direction of the next one. The third layer can be applied generally fan-shaped, smoothing out with arcuate movements.
Pay attention to reverse side spatula. Periodically remove dry particles of putty and debris from it.
How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)
Wash the tool often so that it does not become completely overgrown. To do this, you need to have a bucket of water and dish sponges on hand.
The finished finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting one (described above). We try to apply a layer thinner. Be sure to putty the walls for good side lighting. Finishing putty has the property of strong shrinkage, so it is better not to level a layer of 2-3 mm.
Step 5: how to putty the corners
Puttying the corners of the walls is an important step, you need to make sure that the corners are well filled with putty and dark empty cracks do not shine through.
Inner corner
The inner corner of the adjacent ones is puttied alternately. First, one wall, we wait for complete drying, with a spatula we remove excess putty particles from the corner, then we putty the adjacent wall.
outside corner
AT modern repairs, perforated corners have long been used, for painting works aluminum are used. They are set according to the level, after drying, the corner should be pulled off with putty on both sides. (I recommend delaying the fugen knauf, it shrinks a little)
Plastering drywall corners
The inner corner of the GKL is glued with a sickle tape or special paper tape and pulled off with uniflot or fugen putty. If sickle tape is used, then we carefully push the putty into the drywall seams. If paper tape, then the seams are filled before applying the tape, excess putty is pressed through and removed with a spatula. The outer corner is also exposed to the "fugenfüller" and is pulled from both sides. (in some cases, the corner is pulled twice)
Reinforcement
Reinforcement during puttying usually occurs at the stage when our wall is puttied for 1-3 layers. Reinforcement such as paint mesh and gossamer protects the wall only from small cracks. In addition to the reinforcing effect, the gossamer creates a uniform surface and smoothes out small irregularities.
Gossamer (fiberglass)
In one of the articles, I described detailed technology sticking cobwebs, so I will describe briefly here.
- 2-3 layers of starting putty, cleaned with 80P sandpaper
- Priming, waiting for complete drying
- Glue is applied with a roller (I recommend glue from Bostik, or Oskar)
- Fiberglass is applied, smoothed with a spatula
- Reapply a layer of glue with a roller
- Smooth with a spatula 35 cm, as if putty with glue
- Subsequent strips of fiberglass are glued end-to-end, or cut with a knife at the junction
paint mesh
Autumn protects walls well from small cracks, great for preparing for painting or under decorative types finishes.
- 1-2 layers of starting putty (we are waiting for complete drying
- We clean the wall with a spatula
- We impose a grid and smooth on top with finishing putty
- The excess is cut off with a paint knife.
- After that, 2 more layers of finishing putty are applied.
How long does putty dry on the walls
Putty dries for about 6 hours, it all depends on the temperature and humidity of the room. It is advisable to wait a day, and then proceed to grinding. It is not recommended to wait several days, some brands of putty harden strongly.
Sanding walls after plastering
So we figured out how to properly putty the walls, now we will answer the question of how to sand the walls after puttying. There is nothing complicated in grinding, there are only a few small nuances, about which I will now tell.
Hand grinding
In manual grinding, a “hand grater” is used - this is a tool for grinding walls after puttying, I advise you to purchase from white plastic. black leaves streaks in the corners when sanded. Sandpaper is better to use not the cheapest. The most important thing and the very first thing to say is to remember to use a respirator!
Sanding the walls after puttying takes place exclusively in circular motions and under the consecration of a spotlight!
If we use a household vacuum cleaner, then there is a chance of damaging the equipment. Therefore, we first remove large debris with a spatula and sweep. Vacuum the rest of the dust.
Grid for putty grouting
Personally, I do not use a mesh, in my region it is not of high quality and scratches the surface. As far as I know, it can be used with special graters that connect to a vacuum cleaner. You need to connect only industrial devices, for example, bosch gas50.
Machine grinding
In my opinion, machine sanding is great for sanding under wallpaper, and requires some skill so as not to rub large holes. Before painting, it is better to grind by hand. Machine sanding reduces labor costs, reduces dust, and speeds up the process. But it will take Sander(preferably a special one for grinding walls), a vacuum cleaner. All this can be rented if you need to grind large volumes.
How to putty the walls - an exciting question for most people planning repair work in an apartment, house or office.
And no wonder. Indeed, in order to save money in your wallet, it is more profitable to do some of the work yourself.
Preparing the walls for the subsequent finishing work in good quality means obtaining, as a result, the surface is perfectly flat, without flaws and roughness.
We will step by step figure out how to putty walls and corners with our own with my own hands. There is nothing difficult in learning to plaster.
What tools do we need
Before describing how to properly putty walls for wallpaper or painting and how to do this work with your own hands, let's figure out what tools we need.
The first tool is a drill equipped with a mixing attachment. It is worth taking into account that putty is usually sold as a dry consistency.
To make a mixture, it is necessary to dilute the powder with water, and do it in certain proportions, and then using a drill with this nozzle, we can “knead” the desired composition.
Just using a mixing nozzle will give us the opportunity to make a homogeneous putty mixture of the desired consistency and without lumps.
The following tools, without which puttying work cannot be done, are spatulas.
Spatulas need to be selected different in size, both large, about fifty centimeters, and small, relevant, to putty the corners.
To prime the walls, we also need brushes and rollers. Moreover, the priming stage should never be skipped.
The primer will cover the walls the thinnest film, which will significantly increase its strength, and also provide adhesion.
To level thick layers, you will need a long metal rule.
To start plastering a wall, especially if its surface is not smooth enough, it is impossible to avoid the installation of test beacons, which can be checked using spirit and laser levels.
This is easy to do with your own hands, just be patient and take your time. Such beacons will help to achieve control over the smoothness and uniformity of the putty surface.
Since we are going to putty the walls under the wallpaper beautifully and evenly, with our own hands, we cannot do without sandpaper: 240th skins will help achieve the desired result at the final stage of puttying, and coarse and large sandpaper will help at the initial stage.
It will be much more convenient to rub out irregularities with sandpaper if you insert it into a special manual skinner.
How to choose the right putty?
Putty mixtures are usually classified according to composition, they are of the following types:
- gypsum, which attract attention with a relatively low cost and, moreover, are quite easy to level, while not giving significant shrinkage. But it is worth considering that such putty is not sufficiently resistant to moisture, which significantly limits the possible scope of its use;
- cement types, unlike gypsum, on the contrary, are moisture resistant, but shrink quite strongly;
- acrylic or polymer types of mixtures are much more expensive than gypsum and cement mixtures, but at the same time they are quite moisture resistant and do not shrink. This type of putty is able to provide high quality wall processing.
Putties, according to the stage of application, are starting or leveling, finishing and universal.
Starting mixtures are characterized by increased strength, but at the same time they have a rather large grain size.
Therefore, first, the wall will have to be plastered, and then putty should be applied with a layer thickness of not more than twenty millimeters.
The finishing mixture is applied before the walls are puttyed under wallpaper or painting to hide the bumps. Apply it in a layer of three to four millimeters.
Universal mixtures are significantly more expensive than starting and final ones, as they combine their properties.
True, on the other hand, they are seriously inferior in their properties to processing in two stages - starting and finishing putties in several layers and a primer after applying each.
Universal putty is best used to cover smooth walls, without significant flaws.
How to prepare walls for putty?
Learning how to putty walls, and with your own hands, is not a difficult task, the main rule is that the surface of the walls should be clean, without any contamination, especially paint residues or oil stains should be avoided.
Any contamination before processing the wall must be removed!
In addition, it is better to plaster the walls in advance, but at the same time, layers of plaster should not fall off, corners and walls should not contain wax or scale.
Before you start plastering, the walls must be coated with a primer to ensure a strong adhesion of the mortar to the work surface.
The primer should be applied evenly, without gaps, in one layer.
Starting putty - how and why
Why is the starting putty applied? Then, to remove the drops, strobes and holes. The starting mixture is applied in a layer up to 1.5 centimeters.
Each layer must dry thoroughly before applying the next.
In order to make the wall putty better, a paint grid is installed on the wall, and the putty is distributed on its surface all over.
This simple trick will make the surface much smoother and stronger. Moreover, the coarser the network you use, the smoother the result will be.
The final putty is extremely important, because it is impossible to putty walls or corners for painting or wallpaper without this stage.
Why is the final stage necessary? To eliminate pores and cracks.
Such putty is applied to the corners or a flat surface with a thin layer, so it is better that the previous steps are done with high quality, because a thin layer of final putty will not save the surface from serious irregularities or roughness.
Cracks in the wall are best covered with gypsum putty. This procedure is quite feasible to do it yourself.
Before starting puttying, the crack should be made wider and deeper with a knife, and then treated with a primer.
Putty for wallpaper and paint
To qualitatively prepare walls and corners for subsequent pasting thin wallpaper- Apply three leveling coats of putty.
As for how to putty the walls for painting, then you should be even more careful, because the paint will not hide even the smallest unevenness.
You can't do without finishing putty.
Plastering plasterboard walls
Puttying drywall walls is somewhat more difficult than concrete walls. But with this it is quite possible to cope with your own hands.
How to properly plaster a drywall wall depends on the further coating.
Without cobwebs and in two layers, the plasterboard wall is plastered if it is supposed to be covered with wallpaper in the future, if after processing the drywall, you plan to paint the walls or finish them Venetian plaster, then it is worth sticking a glass sheet on drywall.
It is worth remembering that after each layer of putty for drywall, it is better to prime the surface with your own hands so that the repair is durable.
It is important to look at the corners and joints with special care to prevent cracks.
Such work is quite feasible with your own hands, you don’t need much skill here, the main thing is to carefully consider each new layer.
Puttying the corners of drywall is based on the design itself. Radial indirect ceilings are pasted over with soft plastic corners, attached with a stapler in a given shape.