Heating cable for water pipes. Self-regulating heating cables and installation of cable heating systems Main types of heating cables

The topic that will be considered in this publication will be of greater interest to owners of suburban housing or owners of private houses, especially if the building is fully equipped autonomous system An extremely unpleasant situation is when a sharp cold snap on the street is also marked by the fact that water stops flowing from open taps. There is nothing to be surprised at - if reliable thermal insulation is not provided and the water supply is heated in one of its sections, freezing occurred, ending either with a plug, or with such a significant narrowing of the pipe lumen that the movement of water becomes extremely difficult.

This is not only very uncomfortable from an everyday point of view - the consequences can be much worse. If the freezing process is not prevented or stopped, then with a high degree of probability this can lead to deformation of the pipeline and even to rupture of the pipe body. All this ends in a major accident with the inevitable overhaul of the water supply system.

Of course, always when designing a future house and its utilities steps are being taken to prevent such a situation. Pipes are buried in the ground below the freezing level calculated for a specific area, a prerequisite their thermal insulation becomes reliable. However, in some cases, such measures are simply not enough.

A typical example is that a rocky ridge or any reinforced concrete structures located below are simply interfering with deepening the trench. Vulnerabilities there are always areas of water intake - the outlets of their wells or wells, places of tie-in into the city water supply network. Often, ice plugs occur in the sections of pipes rising to the building, in unheated basements, in the places where the basement passes through the concrete massif, etc.

Such sections of the water supply system require special attention, and it would be better if in these places it is provided electric heating... It is not so difficult to accomplish this, because modern technologies make it possible to use a special heating cable for such purposes.

The principle of heating is based on the conversion of electrical energy into heat when current passes through special heating cables (similar to the work of a spiral or heating element that is familiar to everyone). The cable is attached outside or placed inside the pipe in the areas most vulnerable to freezing. The amount of heat emitted by it is sufficient to maintain such a minimum possible temperature level in the pipeline cavity, which should exclude the onset of water crystallization and its transition to a solid state.

It is quite clear that at the same time the cable itself must have reliable electrical and waterproofing with a good margin of safety, so that any possibility of rupture, melting, breakdown of voltage on the pipeline is completely excluded.

Currently, the buyer can choose one of several heating cable options:

Resistive heating cables

This type of cable is the simplest in its design. The conductor is made of a certain alloy with high resistance, and when an electric current passes through it, heat is generated.

They are produced in a single-core or two-core version. Single-core cables are rarely used in the conditions under consideration - for the simple reason that they necessarily require "looping" the circuit, that is, both ends of the cable must converge in one place - at the power source. When heating pipes, this is not always easy, but often - and in general impossible.

Two-core cables are more practical in this regard - at one end such a cable is connected to the mains, and at the other, a contact sleeve is installed, which ensures the closure of the circuit.

The role of a heat source can be played by one conductor - the second in this case serves only to provide conductivity. In some cables, both wires have heating capabilities - the power of such devices is much higher.

Conductors are protected by reliable, most often - multilayer insulation, grounding circuit - shield. The outer layer is made of a high-strength, resistant to external influences, polyvinyl chloride sheath.

TO positive qualities similar cables include:

High power and total heat transfer rates, which is especially important on large-diameter water pipes or with a large number of fittings that require heating (tees, flanges, taps, etc.) ).
Relative simplicity of design, which predetermines and their availability in terms of cost. So, a similar cable of minimum power can be purchased at a price of 150 rubles per meter.

Resistive cables also have their disadvantages:

For the economical operation of such a water supply heating system, it will be necessary to purchase and install additional devices - temperature sensors, control and automatic control units, which will maintain the temperature at a given level, including power supply as needed.
The cable is sold in a certain length, and the terminal sleeve must be installed in a production environment. Do not cut the cable yourself.

Semiconductor self-regulating heating cables

This type of cable was developed specifically for economic operation, and is fundamentally different in both the device and the principle of its operation.

The two metal conductors are separated by a special semiconductor matrix, which acts as a heat emitter. The special properties of the semiconductor used ensure its maximum conductivity at low temperatures, and with their increase, electricity consumption is significantly reduced. It is characteristic that a similar self-regulation process occurs at each specific point along the entire length of the cable. The temperature along the length of the pipe can be quite different, and, therefore, the maximum heating is carried out precisely in the most vulnerable sections of the pipeline.

The advantages of using such a cable are obvious:

Considerable savings are achieved in terms of energy consumption. When the overall air temperature rises, the system immediately reacts by reducing the power consumption.
This cable can be purchased in any length - most of its varieties have places cut with a step of 200 or 500 mm.

The main disadvantage of such a water supply heating system is the rather high price. So, even the most inexpensive types can cost about 300 rubles per square meter, and the upper limit of the cost "rolls over" even for 1000.

The water supply heating system may imply outdoor installation cable or placing it in the cavity of the pipe. Each of these technologies has its own characteristics, which is taken into account when selecting the desired model and when performing work.

Heating cables can be produced with a round cross-section, but for external placement on a pipe, a flattened (ribbon) shape is better suited, which will more contact with the surface and give more efficient thermal energy... The power range is also wide enough - from 10 to 60 W for running meter- this should be taken into account when drafting a heating system, taking into account the material of the pipes and the specific conditions for the location of the water supply system.

There is enough a complex system calculation of the required power, which is used by specialists at the stage of drafting projects. However, oversimplified. V living conditions, you can focus on the following parameters:

If it is planned to heat the pipeline with the placement of the cable inside, then a specific power of 10 W / m will be sufficient for this.

When placing the cable outside on metal or polymer water pipes, they rely on the following indicators:

- Ø½ ÷ ¾inch – 17 W / m;

- Ø¾ ÷ 1½inch – 27 W / m.

More powerful heating cables or tapes (e.g. 31 W / m) are used in private buildings for heating sewer pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and above.

The delivery set of the water supply heating system usually includes the heating cable itself and the "cold" part - a wire for switching with a power source. The "cold cable" may already be connected to the heating part, but more often this work has to be done independently. In this case, the set may include tubular adapter terminals and required amount heat shrinkable tubes of different diameters. In the case of using a self-regulating cable, in addition, there must be a special end sleeve that reliably insulates the cut end.

Video: one of the heating cable sets for the water supply

A thermal sensor with an automation (thermoregulation) unit is practically never included in the kit - they will have to be purchased separately. Thermoregulation units are available in various designs- so, they can be similar to underfloor heating thermostats with wall mounting, installed in an electrical panel on a DIN rail like a conventional machine, mounted directly on a pipe in a place convenient for maintenance and control.

For self-regulating cables, compact thermostats are produced, which are placed on the "cold" part of the cable, pre-configured to turn on the power when the temperature drops to 5 ºС and turn off when the temperature reaches 15 ºС.

"Cold" wire with installed thermostat

Arrangement of the water supply heating system will require the installation of a separate machine, with a design capacity of about 25 amperes. The emergency system will never be superfluous. protective device- RCD.

Installation of a water supply heating system

The most important operation is the connection of the heating cable to the power cable

The cable is most often sold by the meter, that is, the required amount is purchased to warm up a specific section of the pipe. Before starting the installation, it is imperative to check the integrity of the cable insulation along its entire length. Neither in In no case is it allowed to lay the cable with signs of surface damage.

One of the most important operations is switching the heating part of the cable with the "cold" one, if it was not provided by the manufacturer or this service is not provided by the store. Each of the models may have its own specific features connections, which must be reflected in the instructions attached to the kit. The main task is to provide reliable electrical contact and, at the same time, to create a multilayer insulation protection, completely eliminating the possibility of short circuit and voltage breakdown to the outside.

For example, we will consider step by step how the cable is prepared for further laying on the water supply system.

Step-by-step instructions for preparing the heating cable for further installation

Illustration
	When purchasing the required length of cable, you will usually immediately purchase an appropriate kit for connecting to the power cable and isolating the free end. The set includes heat shrinkable tubes of various diameters and lengths, crimping sleeves, which will act as connection terminals. For such purposes, a special heat shrinkage is used, a layer of glue applied on the inner surface - this dramatically increases the insulating qualities of the resulting joints. Many kits for the insulation of the free end of the cable provide it with a regular heat shrink tubing, and a finished sleeve, already plugged at one end (as in the present example).
	After you have measured and cut the required cable length, you can proceed to work. It is most convenient to do this not on the knee, but on the workbench. The outer insulation is carefully removed from the end of the heating cable, which will be connected to the power cable, at a distance of 45 mm from the edge. A neat cut is made around the circumference with a knife ...
	... then there is a longitudinal cut, and the upper dense insulation in this area can be easily removed. There may be a grounding shield underneath if the cable is equipped with one. In our case, there is no provision for connection to the ground loop, so the cable was selected without a braid. If it is, it is neatly cut off with nippers. In the same case, when switching and the grounding circuit is planned, the braid is collected in one neat pigtail and is still bent to the side.
	Under the top layer of insulation, another one will open - a thinner translucent one. It is also carefully removed.
	The heating matrix is carefully cut with a knife in the center, not reaching about 5 mm to the end of the stripped section
	Heat shrink tubes are put on the separated halves.
	Pay attention - one of them is about 15 ÷ 20 mm shorter than the other. This is necessary to separate the length of the connection between the two wires of the cable.
	With the help of a building hair dryer, the tubes are warmed up, deposited, tightly fitting the insulated sections of the wires.
	Trimming the ends of the wires is carried out - each of them should protrude from their heat shrinkage by about 9 ÷ 10 mm.
	The conductor is stripped from the remains of the matrix. To do this, first a neat cut is made around the circumference, and then the cut "cylinder" is easily removed progressively along the wire.
	The illustration shows the stripped wires of the cable well. A crimp sleeve is put on one by one.
	Then it is crimped - using side cutters, pliers or special crimping. It makes sense to check the quality of the contact right away - the wire must be securely fixed in the sleeve, without the slightest backlash.
	This is how the sleeve should look after crimping on one side.
	Exactly the same operation is carried out on the second wire of the heating cable.
	After that, pieces of heat-shrinkable tube are put on the ends of the wires with crimped sleeves.
	Go to the "cold end", that is, to the power supply cable. A section of external insulation is removed by about 40 mm, the ends of the wires are stripped by 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	They put on the power cable one after the other and while two pieces of heat-shrinkable tube of large diameter are pulled aside. First, the one that is longer is put on ...
	... and then a shorter one.
	Since in our case grounding is not assumed, the yellow-green wire is simply bite off. In the event that the shielded heating cable is connected to the ground loop, this wire is temporarily bent to the side for the time being.
	The stripped end of one wire is inserted into one of the sleeves installed at the end of the heating cable and crimped. Moreover, such wiring begins with a shorter heating cable wire.
	A similar operation is carried out with the second power wire. Its length is already accurately cut in place (it is clear that it requires a slight shortening), and then the end is cleaned.
	Further, everything is the same - the stripped end of the wire is inserted into the sleeve and crimped.
	The wires are connected, but now it is necessary to ensure their reliable insulation.
	To do this, the previously worn sections of the heat-shrinkable tube are shifted so that they are located in the center of the connection nodes, completely covering them on both sides.
	Further, they warm up with a hairdryer for a tight shrinkage of the tubes.
	The next step is to shift the previously put on a piece of wide heat shrinkage (shorter) to the switching area.
	It must completely cover it - all the way from the removed external insulation of the heating and electrical cables.
	Warming up and shrinkage of this area is carried out. The tube should tightly encircle all joints located under it, creating a common "cocoon". By the way, it is after this that, if necessary, the commutation of the ground loop with the braided shield can be carried out. The connection is carried out in the same way - with the help of a crimping sleeve and with the closure of this unit on top with a small piece of small-diameter heat shrinkage.
	After that, the entire resulting assembly is completely closed with a second, longer piece of large-diameter heat-shrink tubing.
	Warming up and final sealing of the cable connection is carried out. Since the heat shrink has an adhesive layer inside, when heated, small droplets of glue can protrude outward from the ends. This is a completely normal phenomenon, talking only about good quality the insulating assembly being created.
	The finished heating and electrical cable commutation unit should look something like this.
	Now it's time to insulate the free end of the heating cable. In our case, a ready-made plug sleeve will be used for this, but it is quite possible to do with a heat-shrink tube with an adhesive inner layer. To ensure complete safety and reliability of the insulation, it is recommended that the cut ends of the two conductors of the heating cable be spaced apart along the length. To do this, one conductor is cut with a "step", that is, it is made shorter than the other by 7 ÷ 10 mm.
	Next, the end sleeve is put on. This is, in fact, also a heat-shrinkable tube, but only with an already plugged end. If the usual heat shrinkage is used, then it is put on in such a way that, in addition to 45-50 mm put on the cable, about 30 mm remain free, that is, they go beyond the cut end.
	Further - all in the usual way - the worn sleeve is warmed up by a hairdryer.
	When heated, the sleeve settles and creates reliable insulation at the end of the heating cable. If a tube is used, then after heating and shrinking, its section protruding beyond the boundaries of the cable is carefully squeezed with pliers to a width of about 12 ÷ 15 mm. The remaining excess of the tube, so that it does not interfere with the installation of the cable, can be cut off.
	That's it, the preparation of the cable for further installation on the water supply system is over.

Another example of how to cut the cable and connect it to the power cord is shown in the video below.

Video: how to properly connect a heating self-regulating cable

When watching a video, be sure to pay attention to the correctness and reliability installation of the end sleeve.

Installing the cable over the water pipe

The usual arrangement of the cable is along the pipe in one line. It is never placed from the top of the pipe. This is done for two reasons. Firstly, the probability of its damage should be excluded with a possible mechanical load on the pipeline from above (falling objects, tools, etc.). Secondly, the liquid always freezes from below, and it is this section that needs maximum heating.

If one cable is not enough for reasons of the required heating power, several "threads" are started up, placing them as shown in the diagrams:

They also act differently - they lay one cable in a spiral around the pipe. This can also be done in different ways:

—Simply wrapping the cable around the pipe with a certain pitch;

- It is not always convenient, and in some cases it is simply impossible, since the space for work is limited, and there is no way to pass the entire bundle of cable under the pipe. Then they act differently: leave allowances-loops with their subsequent wrapping around the pipe body in the opposite direction.

How to fix the cable to the pipe surface? If used polymer pipes for water supply, then without options - only with aluminum tape, which will provide maximum heat transfer from the cable to the pipe. In this case, the cable is fixed along its entire length.

At the same time, in especially problematic areas, it is possible to increase heat transfer by gluing the contact area with aluminum adhesive tape or even completely wrapping the pipe with foil before laying the cable.

When installing the heating system on a metal pipeline, the cable is fixed in a ring method with a certain pitch between the attachment points (no more than 300 mm). It is recommended to use heat-resistant adhesive tape or a special plastic cable tie.

There are features of cable laying at some water supply units:

When placing the cable in bends, it should be as close as possible to the outer radius of the bend.

A lot of heat is always dissipated at the points where the pipe is attached to the metal supports. These sections will require an additional loop at the bottom - as shown in the diagram.

Massive water supply units - taps, valves, flanges - always require special attention. It also requires cable laying according to a special scheme - see the picture.

Next important question- placement of the thermal sensor. In no case should it be located in the immediate vicinity of the heating cable, otherwise the entire control system will simply lose its meaning, since the sensor must take the temperature readings as accurately as possible inside the pipe. Approximate layouts are shown in the figure.

Location of the sensor when laying one cable ...

... two ...

... or even three

Under the sensor, the surface of the pipe must be glued with aluminum tape, and with it it is fixed at the installation site. Usually, the coldest place in the pipeline is chosen for the installation of the sensor.

Installation of the heating cable inside the pipe

In some sections of the pipeline, it is simply impossible to install a cable over the pipe, for example, in sections of passage through floor slabs, basement, concrete rings of a well, etc. tp., the technology of installing the cable inside the pipe will come to the rescue.

To do this, acquire one that can be used in such conditions - with especially reliable insulation, round section. The kit should include a special gland assembly - threaded bushings and washers with a conical or cylindrical rubber seal placed between them.

Before starting the installation of the cable, all plumbing fixtures are immediately put on it in the required sequence, in accordance with the instructions, and only then is switching with the "cold" wire.
At the point of entry of the cable into the water supply, a tee is installed into which the seal sleeve is screwed.

The cable is then very carefully inserted into the pipe body to the specified length. It should be taken into account that in this way only straight pipe sections or those with minimal bends that will not interfere with the free passage of the cable are heated. Neither in In no case is the cable allowed to pass through valves, taps, gate valves, or connection sections where protruding threads inside can damage the integrity of the insulation.
After the cable is inserted, the gland assembly is completely twisted and crimped to prevent depressurization of the plumbing system.

An example of installing a heating cable inside a water pipe - step by step

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	In this example, the installation of a section of a water supply system from HDPE pipes will be considered. House - on pile foundation, the well is located directly below it, that is, the section of the water supply system between the heated room and the ground level, as well as going to the well to the entire depth of soil freezing, needs protection from freezing. In this section, there is a need for two turns at an angle of 90 degrees - this will impose some changes in the process of installing the pipeline and cable in it. To begin with, the heating cable input unit is assembled. Use a regular 1 '' brass tee. Two fittings for HDPE pipes and a penetration unit will be connected to it. The first illustration shows "fitting" of all the components of the knot. A HDPE fitting is screwed onto the tee
	Approximate second fitting (90 degrees to first). And now an adapter from 1 inch to ¾ is placed on the remaining outlet of the tee - to assemble the input unit.
	The next step is to put an adapter from 1 inch to ¾ on the remaining free outlet of the tee - for further assembly of the input unit.
	A bushing is screwed into the adapter, in which the sealing unit will be located.
	This seal assembly itself consists of several parts. From below it rests on the washer - shown by the arrow.
	Above is an O-ring rubber sleeve with a hole in the center through which the heating cable will be passed.
	For uniform crimping of the rubber sleeve, another metal washer is installed on top of it.
	And the very final "packing" of this sealing unit will be carried out by tightening the clamping nut.
	Here is the entire T-joint for the heating cable input assembled "dry" - to check the condition of threaded connections and complete completeness. Now you can proceed to further installation - already with the sealing of the connections.
	For mounting a plastic fitting in a brass tee, it is quite possible to use an FUM tape. It is wound in several layers on the threads, and then the fitting is screwed into the socket of the tee and tightened with a wrench.
	The second fitting is mounted in the same way.
	Seal the threaded connection of two brass parts - a tee and an adapter, it is better, nevertheless, with a tow from a tow with a coating of a sealing paste such as "Unipak".
	The assembled tee with its "hinge" is still retracted to the side. On the cable from the end of the insulating sleeve begin to "string" the parts of the sealing unit.
	They put them on, of course, in the reverse order. The clamping nut is put on first.
	Next comes the brass washer.
	Difficulties can arise when pulling the cable end sleeve through the opening of the rubber grommet - simply due to the increased thickness of the insulation at the end. But this will have to be done with effort and, of course, observing a certain amount of caution. If the work is carried out in cold weather, you can slightly soften the rubber sleeve by heating it in warm water. Eventually the rubber will give way and the sleeve will go into the hole.
	To make it possible to apply force to pass the end sleeve through the rubber grommet, you can rest the seal against the jaws of an adjustable wrench, as shown in the illustration. As soon as the rubber sleeve passes the insulating sleeve, it can be moved further along the cable, although not quite freely, but without much difficulty.
	The second brass washer is put on last. Here are all the parts of the assembly, put on the heating cable in the correct order.
	All these parts are moved in a "package" close to the junction of the heating cable with the "cold end" - the power cable.
	The cable is inserted into the tee entry unit through a sleeve ...
	... and then it is pulled along its entire length - up to the connector. In the example under consideration, in view of the fact that two turns at 90 degrees are assumed, we went exactly along this path. Pushing a cable even through one perpendicular branch is a big and often unsolvable problem. Trying to push it through two bends is simply useless. This means that the assembly of a complex section of pipes will be carried out while simultaneously pulling the heating cable through it.
	We go directly to the place of assembly of the water supply system - to the area where the pipe from the heated room goes down into the well. Here is the first vertical section, which, through the elbow, becomes the horizontal one. The tee is "packed" onto the pipe section, so that the cable entry is on top. The cable is pushed forward - it was inserted into the zone of the first turn beforehand.
	We meet the cable at the end of the horizontal section and stretch it with a small margin.
	This is where the second 90-degree bend will be located, which will connect the horizontal section with the vertical pipe, which already goes into the well. To begin with, we simply drag the heating cable through the bend.
	Only then is the fitting on the branch hermetically connected to the horizontal section of the pipe.
	The next step is to completely pull the heating cable through the outlet, so that the sleeve of its connection with the "cold end" is located right next to the input unit.
	It turns out this is the picture - the cable is fully stretched, all the details of the input unit are assembled at the bushing.
	All parts of the unit are inserted in turn into the bushing. The rubber grommet must fit tightly - it must be pushed down all the way to open the threads for screwing in the compression nut.
	The nut is first tightened by hand as much as possible ...
	... and then - pulled up with a key.
	Now it remains to assemble this heated section of the water supply to the end.
	Through both existing turns, the cable has already been pulled through, so no special problems are foreseen.
	The free end of the cable with an end sleeve is inserted into the pipe, which is lowered into the well. The cable is stiff enough, and in a straight vertical section of the pipe it will go down without any resistance.
	Leave the cable deeper and deeper, and soon you can start installing the branch on the vertical pipe.
	That's it, the transition node is assembled. The heating cable inside it will prevent the water from freezing during the winter cold in this most vulnerable section of the water supply system. Pay attention - the master has additionally “dressed” the pipes in thin thermal insulation made of foamed polyethylene.
	And this is an assembled unit for the passage of the heating cable into the pipe. If, after starting the system, there are signs of water leakage through it, it will be necessary to tighten the upper crimp nut - the tightness will be restored, and the leak will disappear.

With all the advantages of this technology for installing a heating cable, it also has many disadvantages. The main ones are a decrease in the overall reliability of the water supply system, since an extra tie-in point appears, a narrowing of the inner lumen of the pipe and often difficulties arising when installing a cable in long or curved sections.

If this installation method is chosen, then it should be clarified in advance whether the heating cable has the appropriate certification for use with drinking water.

Thermal insulation after laying the cable part

Heating the water supply with a cable will only make some sense if the subsequent thermal insulation of the pipes is provided.

For these purposes, special materials are used, made in the form of semi-cylinders or split cylinders made of mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, foamed polyurethane, or rubber, and other traditional thermal insulation materials with high thermal resistance.

The installation of thermal insulation parts is recommended to be carried out immediately as the cable is laid - this reduces the possible risk of accidental damage. Before installation, be sure to ensure that the insulation material is completely dry, as the presence of moisture will significantly reduce its effectiveness.
Installation of thermal insulation is carried out with the utmost care, so as not to damage the surface of the heating cable and not displace its correct position on the pipe. All details must be fixed in place and among themselves in a manner established for them. The joints, if there are gaps, should be caulked with mineral wool and glued with waterproof tape (if thermal insulation with an external foil coating is used, the joints are glued with aluminum tape).
In construction practice, it is customary to consider the following thicknesses of insulation for heated sections of water pipes:

- For diameters ½ and ¾ inch— 20 mm;

- Ø 1 and 1¼inch —30 mm;

- Ø 1inch — 40 mm;

- Ø 2 inch — 50 mm;

- Ø 2½ inch — 65 mm.

Having completed the installation of the cylindrical parts of thermal insulation, one must not forget about their high-quality protection against moisture penetration from the end part.

After the completion of the thermal insulation work, it will be possible to connect the heating system to the power supply and conduct a test run. If a thermoregulation system is installed, it is adjusted to maintain the temperature in the pipe at 3 - 5 ºС.

A well-planned and well-executed installation of a water supply heating system should save the owner of the house from the "headache" of possible freezing of pipes for a very long time.

Read useful information See our new article and flushing instructions for more information.

Making the water supply of a private house or summer cottage constant and uninterrupted is not an easy task. The most difficult thing is to provide water supply in winter. To prevent the pipes from freezing, they can be laid below the freezing depth, but they still remain weak spots... The first is abnormally cold winters, which periodically break all records. The second is the place of entry into the house. They freeze often anyway. The way out is to install a heating cable for the water supply. In this case, the sewage system is desirable, but it can be buried shallowly. And on the entry points into the house, you can lay a more powerful heater and better insulate it.

Types of heating cables for plumbing

There are two types of heating cables - resistive and self-regulating. In resistive, the property of metals is used when passing electric current heat. A metal conductor is heated in heating cables of this type. Their feature- they always emit the same amount of heat. It doesn't matter if it's + 3 ° C or -20 ° C outside, they will be heated the same way - at full power, therefore, they will consume the same amount of electricity. To reduce costs in a relatively warm time, temperature sensors and a thermostat are installed in the system (the same as used for an electric underfloor heating).

When laying, resistive heating wires should not intersect or be located next to each other (close to each other). In this case, they overheat and quickly fail. Pay close attention to this point during the installation process.

It should also be said that a resistive heating cable for a water supply system (and not only) can be single-core and two-core. Two-core ones are more often used, although they are more expensive. The difference is in the connection: for single-core ones, both ends must be connected to the mains, which is not always convenient. Two-core cables have a plug at one end, and a fixed ordinary electric cord with a plug, which is connected to a 220 V network, at the other. What else do you need to know? Resistive conductors cannot be cut - they will not work. If you bought a bay with a longer than necessary segment, lay it entirely.

Self-regulating cables are a metal-polymer matrix. In this system, the wires only conduct current, and the polymer is heated, which is located between the two conductors. This polymer has an interesting property - the higher its temperature, the less heat it releases, and vice versa, when it cools down, it begins to release more heat. These changes occur regardless of the state of adjacent cable sections. So it turns out that he himself regulates his temperature, which is why he was called that - self-regulating.

Self-regulating (self-heating) cables have solid advantages:

they can intersect and will not burn out;
they can be cut (there are markings with cutting lines), but then you need to make an end sleeve.

They have one minus - a high price, but the service life (subject to the rules of operation) is about 10 years. So these expenses are reasonable.

Using a heating cable for any type of water supply, it is advisable to insulate the pipeline. Otherwise, too much power will be required for heating, which means high costs, and it is not a fact that the heating will cope with especially severe frosts.

Installation methods

The heating cable for the water supply is laid outside or inside the pipe. For every method there is special types wires - some for outdoor installation only, others for indoor installation. The installation method must be prescribed in the technical specifications.

Inside the pipe

To install a heating element inside a water pipe, it must meet several requirements:

the shell should not emit harmful substances;
degree electrical protection must be at least IP68;
hermetically sealed end coupling.

In order to be able to tuck the wire inside, a tee is placed at the end of the pipeline, into one of the branches of which a wire is inserted through the gland (included in the kit).

Please note that the joint - the transition between the heating cable and the electrical cable - must be outside the pipe and gland. She is for humid environments not intended.

The tee for installing the heating cable inside the pipe can have different angles of outlet - 180 °, 90 °, 120 °. With this installation method, the wire is not fixed in any way. It is simply tucked inside.

Outdoor installation

It is necessary to fix the heating cable for the water supply on the outer surface of the pipe so that it fits tightly over the entire area. Before installing on metal pipes, they are cleaned of dust, dirt, rust, traces of welding, etc. There should be no elements left on the surface that could damage the conductor. On pure metal the occasion is laid, fixed every 30 cm (more often it is possible, less often it is not) with the help of metallized adhesive tape or plastic clamps.

If one or two threads stretch along, then they are mounted from below - in the coldest zone, stacked parallel, at some distance from each other. When laying three or more wires, they are located so that most of them are at the bottom, but the distance between the heating cables is maintained (this is especially important for resistive modifications).

There is a second installation method - a spiral. It is necessary to lay the wire carefully - they do not like sharp or repeated bends. There are two ways. The first is to unwind the sleeve by gradually winding the released cable onto the pipe. The second is to fix it with sagging (bottom picture in the photo), which then wind and secure with metallized adhesive tape.

If a plastic water pipe will be heated, then metallized tape is first glued under the wire. It improves thermal conductivity, increasing heating efficiency. Another nuance of installing a heating cable on a water supply system: tees, valves and other similar devices require more heat. Make a few loops on each fitting when laying. Just keep an eye on the minimum bend radius.

How to insulate

It is unambiguously undesirable to use for warming a heated pipeline mineral wool any origin. She is afraid of getting wet - in a wet state, it loses its thermal insulation properties. Having frozen in wet form, after the temperature rises, it simply crumbles into dust. It is very difficult to ensure the absence of moisture around the pipeline, so it is better not to take this insulation.

Insulation materials that shrink under the influence of gravity are not very good. Shrinking, they also lose their insulating properties. If your pipeline is laid in a specially built sewage system, nothing can put pressure on it, you can also use foam rubber. But if you just bury the pipe, you need rigid insulation. There is another option - on top of a crumpled insulation (for example, expanded polyethylene with closed cells), put on a rigid pipe, for example, a plastic sewer pipe.

Another material is expanded polystyrene, molded in the form of fragments of pipes of different diameters. This type of insulation is often called a shell. It has good thermal insulation characteristics, is not afraid of water, and can withstand some loads (depending on density).

What power is required for a heating cable for a water supply

The required power depends on the region in which you live, on how the pipeline is laid, on the diameter of the pipes, whether it is insulated or not, and even on how you lay the heating - inside the pipe or on top of it. In principle, each manufacturer has tables that determine the cable consumption per meter of pipe. These tables are compiled for each power, so it makes no sense to lay out some of them here.

From experience, we can say that with an average insulation of the pipeline (expanded polystyrene shell with a thickness of 30 mm) in Middle lane Russia has enough power of 10 W / m to heat one meter of pipe from the inside, and at least 17 W / m must be taken outside. The farther north you live, the more power (or thicker insulation stand) you need.

With or without thermostat?

If you want to pay a minuscule fee for heating the water supply, it is better to put a thermostat. Even if you are going to install a self-regulating heating cable. Basically, the characteristics are as follows: turns on at + 3 ° C, turns off at + 13 ° C.

If your water is supplied from a well, it will never have a temperature of + 13 ° C in it. It turns out that the heating will work all the time, even in spring and summer. In summer, of course, the cable can be turned off, but in spring and autumn this cannot be done due to the possibility of a sudden freeze. With a little easier, but not much - in the summer there water may have a temperature and slightly above the shutdown threshold. But this is in the summer, and during the hottest period. And in general, why do you need to heat, say, the water that goes to cistern? Yes, and the one that goes to the kitchen or to the shower, you will still heat it with boilers or instantaneous water heaters.

In any case, it turns out - a thermostat is needed. On it, set the shutdown temperature in the region of + 5 ° C. The cost of heating the pipeline falls significantly. This significantly increases the service life of heating cables - they have a certain resource working hours. The less they work, the longer they will serve you.

Heating cable for water supply - connection diagram to the thermostat

When installing a water supply heating system with a thermostat, it will be necessary to install a temperature sensor. There is a complication here. It must be placed on the pipe so that it is not affected by the temperature from the heaters. That is, it is not necessary to insulate it from the pipe, but it is necessary to insulate it from the cables.

It is advisable to install the thermostat itself indoors. It is connected to the housekeeper through a circuit breaker and, preferably, an RCD. The power consumption of the heating cable is small, therefore the rating of the machine can be taken on the order of 6A, the rating of the RCD is chosen the nearest larger one, otherwise the leakage is preferably 30 mA.

Connect the heating cable for the water supply to the corresponding connectors on the thermostat housing. If there are several branches, they are paralleled. A temperature sensor is connected to adjacent contacts. Each thermostat has a marking, which makes it clear what and where to connect. If there is no marking, it is better to buy another one: the performance of this instance is very doubtful.

V winter time years on a large territory of Russia are dominated by unstable climatic conditions: severe frosts are replaced by a sudden thaw and vice versa. The surprises of nature take the owners of country houses by surprise. With a sharp change in temperature, the eaves and other elements of the roof become iced, and icicles appear. In turn, the areas in front of the garage, roads and steps are covered with a crust of ice and snow. It all becomes the reason damage to the roofing and drainage system, and also poses a threat of increased injury risk... The only reliable and effective way to deal with such natural disasters is to install a cable heating system.

What is cable heating?

Cable heating is an anti-icing system based on electric heating cable... It causes snow to melt, thereby preventing ice crust formation on surfaces. To ensure the required level of heating of the roof, the cable is laid along the edges of the roof, in places of possible accumulation of liquids and the formation of ice: gutters, cornices and gutters. If the cable is placed inside the downpipe, it is rolled up in rings. The number of loops depends on the pipe diameter. Heating element resistant to ultraviolet rays, is mounted on any surface and provides unhindered drainage of water from the roof.

It lies in their practicality and ease of use. Small dimensions allow compact installation of the system without harm to the appearance of your home. This does not require large financial investments during installation and significant operating costs associated directly with energy costs.

Roof de-icing systems work in autumn-spring period and during thaws. Temperature range for use from -10 to +5 ° C... It is important that the system is equipped with temperature and precipitation sensors, a thermostat that will control the operation and adapt to specific weather conditions... Typically, cable tracing systems operate automatically. In combination with temperature and humidity sensors, the control station ensures uninterrupted operation in any area.

It is possible to provide heating of open areas (paths, balconies, steps) using a cable mounted under the top layer of the coating, be it tiles, concrete or other material. The system is attached to the net and is a heating mat. The cable can be of different power depending on the thickness of the coating. Anti-icing systems do not work instantly and are used to standby mode... To protect outdoor areas from moisture and cold, “smart” heating is usually installed. As soon as the system signals the need to turn on the heating, a heating element will automatically start working.

Types of cables used

There are two main types of heating elements: resistive and self-regulating... The self-regulating cable is based on a semiconductor matrix located between two conductive cores. It heats up when current passes through it. The resistance of the matrix increases when it is heated. The lower the temperature around the wire, the more power is generated by the matrix. Resistive heating cables have constant resistance along their entire length, and therefore heat transfer. The element that generates heat is a metal core, all sections have a fixed length. The system is controlled by a thermostat with a sensor and turns on at a temperature close to zero.

When designing and installing the system it is important to consider the installed capacity limits for heating cables. Violation will result in system crash or termination. The total specific power of heating cables for the horizontal part of the roof is at least 180-250 W / m. On the rooftop with fuel roofing material, for example, with roofing material, a low-power cable (25 W / m) is laid. A residual current device must be present for the safe operation of cable heating.

Resistive cables are cheaper and more durable, but should regularly carry out preventive work to clean the gutters from foliage and dirt. Electrical wire located in these gutters can overheat and fail.

The widely used pipe heating cable prevents the liquid flowing inside the pipe from freezing. Unpleasant consequences the occurrence of ice "jams" leading to irreversible rupture of pipes can be avoided by installing such heating systems inside or outside them.

What is a pipe heating cable?

The heating cable for heating pipes is heated by the action of the passing electric current and is the main component of the system designed to prevent the pipes of external communication systems from thawing.

The operation of the cable is based on the conversion of electrical energy into thermal energy. Characteristic feature These products can be called the fact that they do not transfer energy, but only accept it, converting electricity into heat without using an oxidizer or fuel.

The main characteristic of a heating cable is the specific heat release, measured in W / m, which shows the power that is released per unit of its length.

Heating cable sections are of different lengths. It can be a segment of a few centimeters, or quite long - several hundred meters. It all depends on the needs of the consumers.

Heating cable design

Heating cable components:

The inner core is the main element. It is made of an alloy with good electrical resistance.
Protective shell main vein- polymeric insulating material equipped with a solid aluminum screen or shielding copper wire mesh.
General PVC jacket designed to provide reliable protection of all component parts the cable from the environment.

On the market there are different kinds heating cables. Their price depends on the number of internal veins. The cheapest - single-core cables - have the most simple design... Their disadvantage is that they do not have protection against electromagnetic radiation, which is provided in two- and three-core cables with an additional conductive core.

The main types of heating cable for pipes

Resistive heating cable

The principle of operation of a resistive heating cable consisting of an insulated metal core:

Do not forget to monitor the temperature in order to prevent burnout of the heating system.

A heating cable is installed inside or on the surface of the pipe.
Temperature sensors are installed on the pipe.
When the temperature falls below a predetermined level, the heating is automatically turned on: the current heats up the conductors, which, in turn, transfer heat to the pipes.
After reaching the right temperature the system is shutting down

The most efficient operation of the heating cable and an even distribution of heat is ensured with the addition of good pipe insulation.

Self-regulating heating cable

Pipes with heating cables - IZOPEKS, as well as other types of modern pipes for external communications - are equipped with a self-regulating system, which was created as an alternative to the resistive one.

A self-regulating heating cable is a series of conductors enclosed in a polymer sheath, very sensitive to the slightest temperature fluctuations, due to a change in resistance. A drop in temperature that decreases resistance results in an automatic increase in current generation, which causes the system to heat up.

Such a system reacts to minimal thermal changes in any section of the pipeline, that is, heating in different parts of the cable can be completely different, depending on the situation. This property of the cable allows it to be used with maximum energy efficiency.

Some features that characterize a self-regulating heating cable for pipes:

Profitability.
Reliable isolation.
Application safety.
Long service life - up to 40 years.
The possibility of dividing the cable during installation into small parts, convenient for use.

Installing the heating cable on the pipe

A well-performed installation of the heating cable can ensure long-term trouble-free operation of the water supply, sewerage and other similar systems:

Preparation for installation. Cleaning pipes from rust and dirt.
Do-it-yourself installation of a heating cable according to one of the options:

Installation of one or more parallel heating cable strands directly on the pipe. The number of threads is selected depending on the creation of the required power.
Spiral cable installation. A more costly option, used when using small diameter pipes and in the case of a sufficiently long heating cable.

Fastening the heating cable to the bottom of the pipe requiring heating with a special tape.

Advice! Try to secure the cable so that it is as far away as possible from the bottom of flanges or other connectors that may allow water to pass through. This will prevent the ingress of liquid on the operating elements of the heating system in the event of a depressurization of the connection.

Installation of thermal insulation. Make sure that the “cold” end of the heating cable remains outside the insulation layer.
Power supply from the electrical panel (outlet) to the heating cable. In the case when the heating cable is installed on pipes in a place remote from the electrical panel, use a junction box.

Additional observance of some conditions will allow for a high-quality installation of the heater and get the greatest effect of heating communications:

Insofar as plastic pipes are devoid of an aluminum layer, you should first wrap them with foil tape. After that, the entire surface of the pipe will be heated evenly.
Heating cable sections not exceeding 1.4 m in length should be mounted to pipeline valves, mounting flanges. This will make it possible, if necessary, to easily disconnect the pipe system.
The resistance heating cable must not be crossed to avoid burnout. This does not apply to the self-regulating heating cable as it is non-flammable.

It is necessary to ensure the maximum possible protection of the heating system from moisture, using heat and waterproofing for this.

It is imperative to provide a marking on the pipeline insulation, indicating the necessary information about the presence of a heating cable on the pipes.

A cable that, when an electric current passes through it, heats up in a controlled manner (this is important!) - a real find for a heating engineer. Such conductors can also be used for the device warm floors, and so that pipes in the cold do not freeze and do not burst. Of course, there are many secrets and non-obvious tricks here - I will help you figure out the nuances!

Types of heating cables

Resistive models

The conductors that are used for laying underfloor heating, as well as for heating sewer and water pipes, work according to the same principle. All of them have a sufficiently high resistance, and when current flows through them, they heat up. A significant part of the heat is transferred to the wire braid, and from it to the surrounding objects.

And yet there is a difference in the operation of different heating cables. According to the method of heat distribution, products are divided into:

Resistive.
Self-regulatory.

A resistive cable is a conductor with a constant degree of heating, which is controlled only by changing the applied voltage. Because of this, resistive cables are almost always connected via a thermostat that automatically controls the power and prevents overheating.

Resistive heating cable types:

Single-core- the simplest and most affordable. The basis is a nichrome wire with a fixed resistance. When turned on, the wire heats up, transferring heat to a polymer heat-resistant sheath and copper braid. The casing is usually responsible for waterproofing.

The design of the braid and sheaths differs in different models... For example, for laying in a loaded screed, I would recommend choosing the so-called armored cables. They have a thicker braid that conducts heat less well, but resists compression much better.

Two-core- more complex due to the fact that they have separate conductive and heating conductors. On the other hand, they do not give such strong electromagnetic interference with the same heating efficiency.

Zonal- the most complex structures with segmental insulation. At the junction of individual insulation segments (usually every 0.8–1 m), the braid is closed to the current-carrying core. Thanks to this, each segment is heated separately, which makes it possible to equalize the temperature of the pipe or the heated floor area.

The advantages of resistive conductors, I would classify simplicity and reasonable cost.

If we talk about the minuses, then this is a mandatory connection to a thermostat, the impossibility of cutting along the length, as well as the risk of burnout with insufficient heat dissipation.

Self-regulating models

An alternative to resistive models is a self-regulating heating cable. It can also be connected via a thermostat, but the design of the product itself provides protection against overheating:

Cable base- two conductive cores. Usually, nichrome conductors with braided shield and reliable insulation are used.
The matrix is responsible for heating and adjusting the work. It is located between the conductors and is a plate, the conductivity of which depends on the temperature. The more the matrix heats up, the less conductive paths remain on it, and the lower the incoming voltage will be.

The main advantage of the system is feedback. So that the cable does not burn out when overlapping, poor heat dissipation, etc., the matrix automatically reduces its conductivity when it reaches a certain temperature. This not only preserves the integrity of the conductor, but also increases the heating efficiency.

By increasing the efficiency, you can save a lot. This is best felt when using underfloor heating in fairly large rooms.

Disadvantages of self-regulating products:

Short service life of the heat cable. After 10-15 years of service, errors begin to accumulate in the matrix, and the risk of overheating due to ineffective regulation increases. That is why I would not advise laying self-regulating conductors in a capital screed.
High price. The cheapest models cost about 200-350 rubles per meter, which is much more expensive than resistive products.

On the other hand, self-adjusting products can be cut into pieces of the desired length when assembling with your own hands. This is not only convenient, but also economical: we can buy the cable of exactly the length that is needed for laying outside or inside, or for heating a section of the floor.

Example 1. Heating pipes

Securing the conductor outside

One of the areas in which heating cables are traditionally used is heating sewer and water pipes. The installation of such products makes it possible to protect the contents of the pipe from freezing even in the most severe frosts, so that ice plugs do not form and the risk of rupture will be minimal.

The heating cable can be installed both outside the pipe and inside the pipe lumen. The first method is simpler and more common, so I'll start the description with it:

Illustration	Outdoor heating installation stage
	Stripping lived. The end of the cable, which we will connect to the power wire, is cleaned of insulation and braid, exposing the conductive cores.
	Compound. Using twists or end switches, we connect the conductors of the wire to connect to the network with the conductors of the heating cable, observing the polarity.
	Isolation of the connection. We insulate all wire connections with heat shrink tubes. After the installation is complete, we push the common coupling into the joint and warm it up construction hairdryer carefully insulating the contacts and protecting them from moisture.
	Pipe surface preparation. We clean metal pipes from dust and rust. It is advisable to wrap plastic pipes with foil for better thermal conductivity.
	Installing the cable. We glue the cable on the foil surface, fixing it on top with aluminum-coated tape.
	Fixation with ties. To increase reliability, we fix the cable with plastic ties. We try not to damage the insulation of the conductor.
	Heat insulating casing. To increase the efficiency of cable heating, we put on a heat-insulating casing made of foam plastic, polyurethane foam or similar material on the pipe with the conductor installed. We fix the insulation with metallized tape.
	Installation on a large diameter pipe. When insulating sewer pipes, a spiral cable laying scheme is used. This allows the most efficient heating of the pipe around the circumference and prevents the formation of ice plugs.
	Bonding a reflective layer. We glue each turn with foil tape for more efficient heat transfer.
	Heating of shut-off valves. So that, if necessary, we can disassemble the system for replacing the valve, cleaning the pipe, etc., the cable is fixed opposite the locking elements in the form of a loop. The length of the loop is selected in such a way that we can wrap the pipe with it and fix the conductor.

The video given in this article, as well as photo and video materials from other articles of the section, will help you to get acquainted with the method of fixing heating wires on pipes in more detail.

Installing a heating element inside the pipe

Cable routing in a pipe is also possible. Moreover, in some cases - for example, when there is a risk of theft or when it is necessary to heat an already laid circuit - this is the only reasonable solution.

The technology for laying heating elements into pipes with a diameter of 20 mm or more is shown in the table.

How to connect the heating element to the conductor used to connect to the network, I have already described in the previous section.

Illustration	The stage of installation of the cable into the lumen of the pipe
	Assembly of the penetration. To install the cable inside the pipe, we first mount the so-called "penetration" - a set of fittings that provides a hermetic introduction of the conductor into the pipe lumen. To seal the conductor, a gland with a washer is installed in the penetration, which is fixed with a clamping nut.
	Putting on the sealing assembly. We put on the heating cable with the end switch: clamping nut; washer; stuffing box; another washer. The most difficult thing is with the gland, because the diameter of the hole in it is less than the diameter of the cable, and even more so - less than the diameter of the protective end sleeve. When putting on, we try not to damage the part, because this will lead to a loss of tightness.
	Pass through a straight-through fitting. We put the heating cable into the penetration and pull it along the entire length, until the gland unit moves to the point of connection of the heating cable with the power cable.
	Institution in the pipe. The straight-through fitting is installed at the inlet of the desired pipe and is fixed with union nuts. After that, we push the cable into the pipe lumen until it is completely moved to where it needs to be.
	Seal fixation. The stuffing box assembly is fixed on the penetration with a clamping nut. Tighten the nut tightly, but do not overtighten. This will press the gland against the cable without damaging the insulation.

Example 2. Floor heating

Calculation of cable heating

In addition to protecting pipes from frost, heating cables are also used for floor heating systems. Unlike film floor heating, the cable is convenient primarily because the density of its laying can be adjusted.

The efficiency of floor heating with a cable laid in a screed is ensured by its correct layout. In this case, it is necessary to focus on the power consumption of the room:

When calculating underfloor heating, please note that heating cables are laid only in areas free from furniture. Conductors underneath a heavy headset can suffer from either pressure or overheating due to poor heat dissipation. Well, heating the bottom of the cabinet or kitchen cabinets at your own expense is also not a good idea.

We carry out the calculations as follows:

We calculate the required cable length. To do this, we multiply the useful area of the room by the specific power consumption and divide by the running power of the cable itself (indicated by the manufacturer).
Determine the styling step. In this case, the area of the room is multiplied by 100 and divided by the cable length in meters, calculated earlier. We get optimal distance between the turns of the heating conductor in centimeters.

The optimal step value is from 6 to 15 cm. In this case, the heating is both intense and fairly uniform (we do not feel the difference between the temperature of different parts of the floor).

If, according to calculations, the step is more than 15 cm, then you can go in two ways:

Extend cable length. If we take a conductor of the same power, then we get a performance margin. If, while increasing the pancakes, we buy a smaller cable, the heating will remain at the same level, but there is a chance to save money.
Increase the thickness of the screed. The thicker cement layer on top of the conductors will heat up the floor more slowly. But the uniformity of floor heating will increase.

When using mats, everything is quite simple: we simply select products with a suitable power density. Taking into account that the market is mainly represented by models of 120-160 W / m2, there should be no problems.

Cable underfloor heating installation technology

If you have calculated everything, then it remains for us to figure out how to properly mount the floor itself.

Illustration	Cable heating installation technology
	Preparing the mounting holes. We make a hole in the wall for installing a junction box and a thermostat. Cut out a groove in the floor for laying the temperature sensor.
	Lead wires. We install a socket in the hole, through which we start the wire from the shield. It is from him that the cable heat-insulated floor will be powered.
	Floor priming. The floor on which the heating cable will be laid is cleaned of debris and treated with a penetrating primer. If the coating has significant irregularities, then screed leveling may be required.
	Insulation laying. If the warm floor is not laid under the glue or screed, but under another floor covering, then it is advisable to lay an additional heat-insulating layer. Rolls of foil material are stacked end-to-end and glued with tape.
	Layout of heating mats. When using mats with a cable fixed to a polymer mesh, lay out the products on the floor. When making a turn, carefully cut the mesh, being careful not to damage the cable.
	Fastening the mounting plates. When using a cable that is not attached to the mats, install steel mounting plates on the floor. We fix them to the base with anchors with plastic sleeves.
	Laying the cable from the coil. We lay the cable with a step that we determined during the calculations. To fix the cable, press the cable with the protrusions of the mounting plates.
	Laying the thermal sensor. We put the temperature sensor into a corrugated pipe, close it with a plug and put it in a groove in the floor. We close the strobe with a solution. We connect the wire from the sensor to the thermostat.
	Thermostat connection. Connect the wires from the temperature sensor, heating cable and power cable to the terminal block of the thermostat. When connecting, we focus on the marking of the terminal block - it is important not to confuse zero and phase from each wire.
	System check. We install the thermostat in the socket and turn on the voltage. We check the performance of the entire system: the cable should heat up evenly and quickly enough. We carry out the check in one or two minutes to exclude overheating.
	Laying the glue mixture. Apply about 5-10 cm of tile adhesive on top of the cable mats. We level the mixture with a spatula and a notched float, form furrows without touching the conductors. We put the glue without gaps, which can lead to a deterioration in heating flooring due to the low thermal conductivity of the air.
	Floor cladding. On adhesive mixture we lay the tiles. We try to ensure that the entire surface of the cladding is in contact with the glue - this way the heat transfer will be more efficient.

Conclusion

Laying and connecting a heating cable is not an easy task, especially for a beginner. But if you focus on the advice voiced, as well as carefully study the video in this article, then most of the questions will disappear by themselves. In addition, by contacting me in the comments, you can always get advice on cable floor heating or pipes.