On my own drain mechanism comes complete with the toilet itself and the flush cistern. However, choose the most reliable design is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. If you properly understand this issue before purchasing of this device, then it will be possible to prevent the occurrence of a number of serious problems.
Types of drain mechanisms
Today you can find two types of drainage devices on sale:
In the first case, draining is carried out by emptying the entire tank; the second has two buttons in its design - they are responsible for pouring out a certain amount of water. This volume can be adjusted; in addition, the use of such systems is completely justified, since water is seriously saved here.
Although the type of drain mechanism may be different, it operates on the same principle. A little differently, the impulse of movement occurs to the valve, which either opens or closes the hole through which the water leaves.
The principle of its operation depends on how this valve is designed. Sometimes this valve is placed at the end of tubular drains that act as an overflow. In other cases, a similar structure opens and closes thanks to special chains made of metal or plastic. The last type of design is far from the most successful, since such a system often fails.
Depending on who the manufacturer of this device is, the design can have quite significant differences. However, all these systems can be divided into two key components:
- Water drainage system;
- Water collection system.
Due to the water collection system, the tank is filled. It can be either side or bottom. If the design has a bottom feed, then they are very convenient for several reasons. First of all, main the positive side is almost silent operation, but the design of this system is very complex.
It includes the following elements:
- Vertical rod float;
- Traction;
The water supply shutoff unit begins to operate due to the traction, which is connected to the buoy into one common structure, which at the same time represents a water level limiter.
If water is supplied from the side, then this design will be more reliable, but when filling the tank it will make quite a lot of noise. Here the operating principle of the entire system will be much simpler. There is a special membrane in the tank, thanks to which water is supplied and stopped from flowing into the tank, as well as a small one connected to the supply tap by means of a lever.
When the tank is filled, the float rises and the lever begins to move, gradually cutting off the water supply when the required volume of water is collected.
Drain water from the tank from above or from the side. The side design is used mainly for hanging tanks, which are almost never used today. In the majority modern products A drainage system with an upper principle of water removal is used.
As a rule, the trigger structure is a bulb made of rubber or rubberized plastic. This equipment is not too expensive, but at the same time very reliable.
In order for water to pass from the flush cistern directly into the toilet, a rod or a special button is placed on the lid, which will move the lever. As stated earlier, modern systems Draining water in tanks can have one or two operating modes.
The second type has two buttons, which release either half of the tank or the full one. This option is most suitable for people for whom saving water is not just empty words.
Options for installing a toilet cistern
There are three key methods for installing a cistern in an apartment or private house:
- Under the ceiling;
- Connection directly to the toilet itself;
- Installation in the wall of the toilet room.
Almost no one installs a drain tank under the ceiling, since for this you will need to buy the appropriate fittings. The key disadvantage of this system will be its not very convenient operation, however, water is both collected and drained under fairly good pressure. Today, such a design is very rare, as it has been replaced by more attractive modern systems.
When the tank is connected directly to the toilet itself, then such technology will have a decent amount positive points. In this case, the tank will be in a fairly convenient position - if repair work is necessary, you will not have to think about how to get to this device. It is also very convenient to monitor the tank, see if everything is in order, and so on.
If you plan to install the tank in the wall, then you need to remember that this is a very labor-intensive process. Of course, from an aesthetic point of view, this will be the most profitable option, since a tank of this type will be practically invisible, in addition, with the help of this solution you can seriously save useful space, which is not enough in the sanitary unit.
Adjustment, repair and replacement
Like any other structure, the drain tank can break. There are quite a few causes of breakdowns, but some of them can be eliminated yourself.
Malfunctions in the drain mechanism
If the drain mechanism has become unusable, this may be due to the following points:
- The intake valve is already very worn;
- The rocker arm has become warped;
- The buoy began to work incorrectly.
The buoy is constantly in the water, which is why when long work cracks begin to form in it. This leads to water penetration inside. Accordingly, the float begins to sink. To rid yourself of this effect, the easiest way is to change this part.
If the lever is deformed, then it should be returned to the correct position, which should be approximately 2 cm below the hole from where water enters the tank.
The shut-off valve may simply not cope with the high water pressure, so you can just install a float valve.
Replacement
Replacing any part in the drain tank is not too difficult. Here it is only important to complete the preparatory work:
- Turn off the water;
- Empty the drain tank.
After this, you can begin to carry out work. Usually the float fails. It is held on the lever using a special clip. It will need to be unfastened and the float will separate from the structure. Instead, they install a new float and carefully turn on the water to determine whether it holds securely on the surface or not.
Changing the entire drain mechanism is also not too difficult - it is held in the tank by only two bolts that need to be unscrewed, and the mechanism will be easily removed. When installing a new structure, care is taken to ensure that it is as airtight as possible.
When installing the tank directly, it is best to first place all the relevant fittings in it and check that they do not touch the walls of the tank there. Only after this can you install the tank in place, not forgetting to place a special rubber sealing ring between it and the toilet to protect against leaks.
When installing a new structure, care is taken to ensure that it is as airtight as possible.
Adjustment
They usually regulate the volume of incoming water, making sure that it does not overflow through the system and does not go into the toilet. To do this, the float is placed so that it is about a couple of centimeters lower than the edge of the reinforcement.
- Spare parts for the toilet should be purchased of high quality;
- When purchasing gaskets, it is advisable to take products made of silicone - they are very durable and reliable, and will not dry out over time and from water, like rubber.
A non-functioning toilet can be quite a problem, especially in a home with a large family. Plumber services are now expensive, and sometimes you have to wait for hours for a specialist to arrive. Why not try to fix the problem yourself?
The design of this useful device is not particularly difficult. Very often the cause of a malfunction is the toilet flush mechanism. You need to study its structure, operating principle, and also get acquainted with the most common breakdowns and the procedure for eliminating them.
Toilets and cisterns for them are quite varied in design, construction, installation method, etc. There are standard “compacts”, wall-mounted models in which the tank is installed directly into the wall, as well as models with a free-standing tank.
The latter, however, are becoming less and less common, since such “retro” plumbing fixtures are considered outdated.
This diagram clearly shows the structure of the float mechanism in the toilet cistern. When the float reaches the top position, the piston shuts off the water supply
But the drain mechanism inside the tank is of only two types, and the principle of operation in both cases is almost the same. It all depends on the type of water supply to the tank, which can be side or bottom.
Side water supply is the most common option. A significant part of domestically produced toilets are designed in this way. They are simple and reliable in operation, but when water is supplied to the tank chamber they produce a characteristic noise.
To eliminate this drawback, models of tanks were created in which water is supplied from below. In this case, the tank is filled with much less noise, but the drain in such tanks is designed a little differently.
This figure clearly shows internal organization a conventional toilet cistern, in which water is supplied from the side
The drainage mechanism can be divided into two parts: a device that regulates the flow of water into the tank chamber, as well as a mechanism by which the tank is emptied, i.e. flushing is carried out. In addition, the tank must have a protective element - an overflow tube.
IN different models internal filling The tank may look different, but functionally there are always three main elements: a float valve, a flush and a protective overflow.
The flow of water into the tank is controlled by a special float valve. It consists of the following elements:
- a float that moves freely on the surface of the water;
- a rod used to turn on/off the water supply from the water supply system;
- lever that connects these two elements.
It works like this: when, after flushing, the water level in the tank decreases, the float goes down, the lever transmits force to the rod, the water supply opens, and the tank begins to fill. When the float rises along with the water to the maximum level, the rod blocks the water pipe and the flow of water stops.
The simplicity of the valve design explains its high reliability and our ignorance of where, what and when to repair. It just works, that's all.
A vertical tube is often attached to the float valve of a side-feed tank. This element is necessary so that less noise is produced when water is supplied to the tank.
The second part of the drain mechanism is the flush itself. It consists of a valve that prevents water from flowing out of the tank, as well as a rod that opens this valve. A rubber element shaped like a pear is usually used as a valve.
Such a mechanism is controlled using a button, a ball that needs to be pulled up, or a rope that is pulled down. The latter option is used only in free-standing “retro” tanks, which are extremely rare.
Once the button is pressed, the valve opens and a significant amount of water flows into the toilet, performing the task for which this mechanism was designed.
The fittings of the tank with bottom water supply are externally different from the contents of domestic models, but the principle of its operation is almost the same
When the water has completely flowed out, the valve moves down and reliably closes the outlet. At this moment, the float valve is activated and water begins to flow into the container. The drain system usually has another built-in useful element- overflow tube. It prevents water from flowing over the edge of the tank.
This can happen if the float valve breaks down if the water is not shut off even after reaching the maximum level. Sometimes the overflow tube is not mounted in the drain valve mechanism, but is installed separately. In models with bottom water supply, the float mechanism looks a little different, but the principle of its operation is almost no different from its counterpart in a tank with side water supply.
The structure and operating principle of the drain mechanism are clearly presented in the following video:
Adjusting the amount of water in the tank
The maximum amount of water in the tank is adjusted by changing the length of the lever to which the float is attached. If the role of such a lever is performed by a piece of thick wire (this is still found in older models), it can simply be bent up or down, depending on whether you need to make the amount of water in the tank more or less.
The more high position The float occupies the tank, the more water enters the tank.
But instead of wire in modern models Plastic elements are increasingly being used, which, of course, cannot be bent. To change the position of the float, it is simply moved along the plastic arm, placing it closer to the water supply point or further from it.
The closer the float is to the valve, the less water will go into the tank. To secure the float, a latch is usually used, which must then be pressed to move this element. Sometimes a threaded connection is used; it is usually not difficult to unscrew and then tighten it.
In toilets with bottom water supply, the shoulder is located vertically, and it is even easier to regulate the water level. The float is simply moved higher or lower along the lever. Its position will correspond to the required water level.
Such simple manipulations will help improve the performance of the tank, increase flushing efficiency and save a significant amount of water.
Installation procedure for the tank drain mechanism
During the process of installing a toilet, it usually becomes necessary to assemble and install the flush mechanism. Installation for a built-in toilet is usually supplied already assembled form, but you will have to work hard to assemble the compact. Sometimes in the instructions there is a recommendation to first assemble and place the device inside the tank, and then mount the tank on the bowl, but practice shows that this is not always convenient.
Sometimes the drainage elements block access to the tank's mounting bolts, which significantly complicates installation. Therefore, it makes sense to first install the tank and secure it, and then begin assembling and installing the “filling” of the tank.
- First, a special protective gasket is installed on the threads of the drain mechanism.
- The structure with the gasket is placed in the drain hole.
- The gasket is secured with a special plastic nut, which should be tightened carefully but tightly.
- The drain hole on the toilet bowl is protected with another gasket.
- The tank is placed on the toilet bowl and secured with coupling bolts, under which there should also be small rubber gaskets to protect against leaks.
- Install the water supply mechanism.
- Connect it to the water supply system.
After this, you can close the tank with a lid, install flush controls (button, rod, etc.) and the installation of the toilet can be considered complete.
As a rule, malfunctions are associated with poor-quality production of components or simply worn-out parts. Most often, the tank drain mechanism causes three types of trouble to its owners:
- Water does not enter the tank.
- Water pours out of the tank and flows onto the floor.
- Water enters the tank, but constantly flows into the toilet, and the tank remains empty or only partially filled.
To find out the cause of the breakdown, usually the inside of the tank has to be removed, disassembled, inspected and repaired. Of course, before starting any repair operations with the tank, you need to turn off the water supply to the toilet.
This is not difficult to do if an appropriate shut-off valve was provided when installing the water supply system.
An important design element is the tank lid
Models in which flushing is carried out using a button, single or double, are very convenient and popular. However, such a cover should be removed very carefully so as not to damage the control mechanism. There is a special locking ring around the button.
First you need to carefully unscrew it. Usually this element is made of plastic; if too much pressure is applied, the ring may burst.
To remove the retaining ring from the reservoir cap, press the button and carefully unscrew it. You can use a special slot on its inside
Once the ring is removed, the cover must be carefully removed. Sometimes pressing the button does not flush. This is almost always caused by the detachment of the hooks connecting the button and the flush mechanism. It is enough to eliminate the displacement for the tank to work normally.
If the buttons stick, this also indicates that they are not in the correct position. Once the offset is eliminated, the mechanism will begin to work correctly.
If water does not flow into the tank, the problem is most likely in the water supply mechanism. It is either clogged or broken. It is necessary to disassemble this part of the device and check for contamination inside. Usually it is enough to flush the valve or remove deposits inside water pipe, and then install the valve again to get rid of the problem.
If water does not flow into the tank, you should disassemble and clean the inlet valve of the device. You may need to clean the water pipe (hose)
The hole in the valve is very narrow and easily clogged. To clean it, a piece of wire or a needle is usually used. To flush the water pipe, you need to briefly open the stopcock. After the valve is screwed back on and the mechanism is installed, water is turned on to check the operation of the system.
If the quality tap water low, it makes sense to think about installation protective filter. This measure will increase the service life of plumbing fixtures in the house.
Problems with the pear
If water constantly flows out of the tank into the toilet, it means there is a problem with the rubber bulb that blocks the drain hole. Either it is too light and needs to be weighted, or it is leaky and a complete replacement of this element is necessary.
To determine the nature of the problem, remove the tank lid and press the flush mechanism from above. In this case, there should remain in the tank sufficient quantity water.
To weight the fittings of a tank with bottom water supply, you should place a suitable weighting material in its lower part, as shown in the figure
If water continues to flow under significant pressure, it means the pear is damaged. The following operations must be performed:
- Shut off the water supply.
- Move the float to the top position.
- Remove the flush mechanism.
- Remove the pear.
- Purchase an item of similar size and shape from the store.
- Place the bulb in place.
- Install the flushing device.
- Check the system operation.
If you have a choice, you should give preference to a bulb made of more elastic rubber, this will ensure a better fit to the drain hole.
Sometimes a layer of sealant can solve the problem with a leaky bulb, but this is a temporary measure; soon the problem will arise again.
The rubber valve (bulb) that closes the drain hole in the tank wears out over time and may require weighting or replacement.
If pressing on the mechanism eliminates the leakage, it is necessary to make the bulb heavier. For this, various weighting agents are used: lead elements, several bolts, a narrow nylon bag with sand, etc.
The bulb is removed and the weighting agent is placed over it, evenly distributing it around the nozzle. Then the pear is installed in place.
If the tank is leaking
If water flows directly from the tank onto the floor, then one or more of the gaskets covering its mounting holes have failed and need to be replaced. This will require quite large-scale work:
- First, remove water from the tank.
- Then its internal filling is dismantled.
- After this, unscrew the mounting bolts.
- The tank is carefully removed from the toilet bowl.
- Worn rubber gaskets are removed.
- All connections are thoroughly cleaned of contaminants.
- The tank is reinstalled using new gaskets.
Even if only one gasket has leaked, it is recommended to replace them all at once, since the remaining elements have been subjected to the same destructive effects and may soon fail.
The operations of dismantling and installing the tank are quite labor-intensive, and such forethought will eliminate the need to do this work several times.
If one of the tank gaskets is worn out and leaking, it is recommended to replace all similar gaskets, since the likelihood of rapid leaks in these places is very high
Sometimes the gaskets are fine, but water flows over the edge of the tank. Most likely the problem is a broken overflow system. It needs to either be cleaned or completely replaced. Will help solve the problem and correct adjustment float position. This procedure has already been described above.
The gasket located at the inlet of the tank may also become leaky. It must be replaced in the same way. All joints should be carefully sealed to prevent such breakdowns in the future. At the end of the work, you need to fill and empty the tank several times to make sure there are no leaks.
Features of breakdowns in tanks with bottom water supply
When operating such a device, the same problems may arise as in a side-feed tank. They are resolved in the same way. But there are also differences. For example, the reason for the lack of water in the tank may be insufficient water pressure in the water supply system of the house.
Diaphragm type valves are sensitive to this problem. If the water pressure in the system can drop to a level of 0.05 MPa, it is better to choose a device with a rod valve.
In toilets with bottom water supply, the water hose is located next to the bolt that secures the tank to the toilet bowl
Displacement of the intake mechanism elements is another common reason for the lack of water in the tank. Even when installing a toilet with bottom water supply, you should pay attention to this point.
If the elements of the mechanism touch the walls of the tank or drain mechanism, it means they are installed incorrectly. To solve the problem, simply return the valve and float to the correct position.
The toilet cistern flush mechanism is the most important element of the entire flushing device. But there are also malfunctions in its operation: sometimes water constantly flows from the drain, sometimes... The design, operation and features of setting up the drain mechanism will be written in this article.
The lower water supply to the toilet involves connecting the main pipe from below. The toilet flush cistern device is usually equipped with a button that acts on the shut-off valve of the mechanism through the rod. Containers for toilets with a button are arranged as follows:
- Pear in one module with drain.
- Traction.
- Float.
- Valve.
Connecting the pipe from below creates silent operation when pouring liquid, however, tanks with such fittings are more expensive. The mounted drain mechanism with lateral water supply is more simple option, and it's cheaper. A float with a sealed plastic reservoir is the most inexpensive and easy-to-adjust liquid flushing system.
Types of drainage mechanisms
To drain the water, we simply press or lift the button, and the sewage is flushed away automatically. Inside the tank, the liquid release mechanism comes into operation, the valve opens, and a stream of water from the tank rushes into the toilet.
The drain mechanism is activated in three ways:
- By lifting the lever.
- By pressing a button.
- By pulling the chain (in wall mechanisms).
A common type of drain mechanism is a shut-off valve, which looks like a plunger. Under the mass of liquid, this toilet flush bulb fits tightly around the drain hole and closes it. After pressing the button and pressing the lever, the valve is slightly raised by the lever system and the liquid is released into the toilet.
An important factor is the direction of flow. There are products with direct (cascade) flushing and circular reverse flushing. In the first case, the liquid moves in one direction, enters the toilet bowl, but does not cover the entire lateral surface while creating noise.
In the second option for draining water - circular, the flow rushes in different directions and at different angles.
This flushing of impurities ensures cleansing inner surface the toilet bowl is at least 95% free of splashing and noise. However, it must be borne in mind that if the liquid has large deposits of lime or other salts, then small holes may become clogged and this will lead to a decrease in flushing efficiency.
Operating principle of dual-mode drain
To save water, the tanks are equipped with a double liquid reset button. They provide a two-mode flush mechanism for the toilet: one regular one - for releasing water into in full(4, 6 or 8 l); the other is a reduced mode, designed to drain 2, 3 or 4 liters of liquid. This system reduces water consumption.
But at the same time, it is whimsical from the standpoint of customization and repair. This is due to the fact that this mechanism has an increased number of mating interacting parts, which means an increased risk of breakdown.
Main types of drainage equipment designs
They differ in the mechanisms for supplying and flushing liquid. Drainage work is performed by automatic, push-button or lever-type devices. Structurally, the insides of a toilet cistern look like this: a float, through a rod and a valve, controls the inlet, regulating the water supply. Thus, it plays the role of a shut-off valve.
In this case, the liquid level depends on the height of the float, and it is adjusted on the rod by bending it or changing the position on the guide.
Lever mechanisms
They were the main plumbing models of the last century. Their operation was distinguished by the unpretentiousness of the device: the liquid was drained as long as the shut-off valve was held in place through the chain.
Then systems with siphon functioning were introduced, when the valve was closed automatically after drawing water.
But these types of mechanisms are distinguished by increased, unregulated fluid discharge and do not meet modern aesthetic requirements.
Drain button
Current tanks are equipped with push-button drain mechanisms. Basically, the buttons are located inside the lid of the tank for draining, and the mechanisms at the same time hold the locking valve automatically.
Their advantage, in addition to independent functioning, is the convenient setting of liquid supply. And products with two-button fittings for the drain tank drain the water completely or partially, depending on which button is pressed.
Automatic draining devices
Now in places public use Plumbing fixtures with automatic drainage are increasingly being used. An automatic toilet flushing device is controlled and provided by infrared sensor devices, in which programs are installed that operate according to a specific algorithm.
Tank drain shut-off valves operate using the principle of a refill valve opened by a float. Only in current drain mechanisms the float is adjusted using a vertical ruler, which makes it possible to close the hole both with the bottom and with the side supply of liquid.
On a note! Current filling devices in the drain tank, through an installed mechanism, draw water faster than products with a rocker arm.
Adjusting fittings in drain tanks
First, let's look at how to adjust the water volume in a one-button flush system.
- First, turn off the water supply with the tap.
- Drain the liquid from the container.
- We remove the button from the seat, for which we simply unscrew it like a bolt.
- Remove the lid of the drain tank.
- We adjust the float, which is located on the right in the tank. It is connected to a small foot that changes the flow of liquid. This diaphragm valve contains a screw that adjusts the position of the rack to change the liquid level. If this bolt is unscrewed, the water level in the tank will increase and, conversely, if the adjusting screw is tightened several turns, less water will accumulate in the tank.
- After adjustment, do not forget to tighten the fastening nut. Adjustment can also be made using a plastic nut mounted on some models of drain tanks. The optimal and economical option would be to configure the mechanism when the liquid does not reach the overflow hole by 2-3 cm.
After adjustment, you need to check the filling level of the tank, to do this, open the water and wait until its supply stops due to the valve, without allowing it to happen.
Important! When setting up, you don’t need to set too low level water, since its flow may not be enough for one-time use.
After making sure that the adjustment is correct, put the cover back in place and put the button back, tightening it by hand.
Adjusting the two-level drain
Such systems require adjustment of the maximum and minimum volume of water for the required drainage.
- unscrew the button to reset the liquid (unscrew it by the rim of the button);
- remove the lid from the tank;
- To supply the required amount of water in the float device, you need to unscrew or tighten the screw and move it up or down in relation to the overflow pipe - accordingly, the water level in the tank will be higher or lower.
Adjustment of the complete discharge of water is achieved through a damper: to increase the volume of water in the tank, the damper must be lowered, and vice versa, in order to lower the liquid level, the damper must be raised. Thus, the one-time discharge of water into the toilet increases or decreases.
Adjustment of old models
As a result, it is worth talking about setting up traditional mechanisms with water supply from the side of the tank. The design of the old type drain tank provides only adjustment of the shut-off valve. Its operation directly depends on the location of the float, which is raised or lowered.
This goal is easily achieved by bending a brass or steel rod into the desired position. If the rocker arm is plastic, then the water level in the toilet tank is regulated by moving the float along the guide rod, thereby changing the geometry of the lever.
Setting the overflow in old-style products was not provided, and if such a problem arose, it was necessary to change the entire mechanism, but this happened very rarely.
It is worth paying tribute to such flush tanks - they were very reliable, because some products lasted for half a century.
Conclusion
When choosing a toilet complete with a flush cistern, you need to take into account many parameters, including room area, price, aesthetic perception and the likelihood of adjusting the flush mechanism.
Since from proper installation and correct settings the continuous operation of the entire system, and therefore comfortable ease of use, depends.
Most common problem bathrooms is a malfunction of toilet tanks. Buttons stick, slow filling storage capacity, continuous leakage of water from an overfilled tank. There are all kinds of malfunctions.
These situations can arise for a variety of reasons. To open the real reason in each individual case, it is necessary to remove the cover. After determining the nature of the malfunction, you can perform a simple repair of a toilet tank with a button yourself, without turning to the help of plumbers.
We unscrew the drain button by hand, rotating it counterclockwise. No tools are required for this operation. Pull out the button and carefully remove the cover.
The push-button flush mechanism in the toilet tank is located in the lid. In addition to the main function, it serves as an element for fixing the stable position of the lid
Inside the drain tank there are two mechanisms, the parts of which may have a malfunction that causes a leak:
- drain mechanism;
- a shut-off valve responsible for the flow of water from the water supply into the container.
We carefully inspect the drain mechanism, assessing the height of the water level. If the water is in the overflow area, this indicates that the shut-off device is not holding.
The water in it is above the float, and therefore reaches the drain channel, through which it flows into the sewer system.
If the water level is at the adjusted height in the shut-off device, then the leak is due to a malfunction of the valve in the drain mechanism. These are the two main reasons.
Repair of the drain lock mechanism
The water passes above the overflow device, which means that the drain valve is in working order, and the problem lies in the locking mechanism. We drain, emptying the container of water. Close the water supply valve to the system. We remove the drain mechanism device by turning it slightly counterclockwise. We take the removed part out of the container and inspect the condition of the rubber sealing ring, which is the shut-off valve of the drain mechanism. We make sure of its integrity. Set aside.
If this is not the case, then remove the ring and rearrange it reverse side, thereby ensuring a tight fit of the rubber to the surface of the bottom of the container. You can immediately install a new O-ring purchased from a plumbing store.
The second problem: the formation of plaque, the accumulation of mucus on the surface of the shut-off valve, which violates the tightness of this system. It can be eliminated by cleaning the part from deposits. Rearranging the ring is very easy. Remove the plastic lock washer. Take the rubber part, wash it thoroughly, then turn it upside down and press it with a washer installed in its original place.
Schematic representation of two methods of supplying water to a toilet flush cistern, showing the design differences in the design of fittings
We unscrew the water supply system and the locking mechanism. There are tanks with bottom water supply and top water supply, located in the side wall of the container. The inlet hose is connected and the valve is located on top. The type of connection does not play an important role, since the malfunction is directly related to the condition of the shut-off valve. Grains of sand and rust from the water supply system can get under the valve, which disrupts the seal of the locking ring.
In addition, the valve itself may become deformed during long-term operation. A manifestation of this is a specific recess formed on the sealing rubber. A part with such damage can no longer contain the flow of water from the water supply system.
A type of torn valve rubber that will have to be replaced with a new part, purchased in a store or made with your own hands from suitable materials
- Let's remove the mechanism that controls the flow of water into the container. To do this, unscrew the large nut by rotating it counterclockwise.
- We remove the removed device from the tank, temporarily putting it aside.
- We are considering a membrane that serves to reduce the pressure of water coming from the system.
- We wash the sealing ring removed together with the membrane from the inlet pipe.
- Next, we proceed to disassemble the shut-off valve body, which was put aside for a while.
- First of all, we snap off the float and remove it.
- Then we remove the float body itself, moving the tongue that fixes the position of the part in the tank to the side.
- Then we disassemble the location of the valve installation. To do this, take a screwdriver, pry it out on both sides, removing the valve with a “toward” motion.
- We examine the socket from which the valve was pulled out, and we see a small hole, which it should close tightly when the tank is full of water.
- The deformed valve looks like a miniature rubber band, in the center of which a recess is squeezed out, the size corresponding to the size of the hole that allows water to pass into the tank.
- During the first repair, this rubber valve is turned over to the other side, which is smooth and even.
- When performing repeated repairs, this rubber valve is cut with a sharp stationery knife exactly in the middle. First, the first deformed part is placed in the nest, and then the second - with the smooth cut side up. Thus, one valve can be used three times, each time turning the parts with a flat surface towards the hole through which the tank is filled with water.
- You can strengthen the valve with an additional part cut from dense foam.
- We install the valve back into place in the socket, securing it in position by pressing until it snaps into place.
- We assemble all the parts in the reverse order: body, float, installation on the pipe, securing the device with a swivel nut.
- When the valve is raised, it should extend the float 1 cm above the housing in which it is located. It is in this position that you need to fix the position of the float by snapping the locking mechanism.
- We install the second part that covers the drain hole in the tank. With a sharp clockwise movement we fix it in its place. A characteristic click should sound.
Open the tap and start the water supply system. We monitor the process of filling the tank, paying attention to the moment the shut-off valve, which has been repaired, operates. As soon as the water overflowed into the float body and raised it by 1 cm, the water supply to the tank stopped. We put the lid in place and fix it with the water release button, twisting it along the thread of the part. drain device all the way in a clockwise direction. Let's see the results of the repair work. There is no uncontrolled flow of water from the flush tank in the toilet. The water meter froze, confirming that no water was being drawn from the system. Let's do a control drain to make sure again positive result repair. The problem was fixed by hand. Money is saved because there is no need to purchase a new drain mechanism and shut-off valve.
You can learn more about repairing the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button from the video.
Fixing a leak between the toilet tank and bowl
If, during flushing, streams of water appear from under the tank, this indicates depressurization of the drain hole. The gasket, which can be round or of another shape, depending on the model, is responsible for the tightness of the connection of the parts of the entire structure. The situation with water leakage can only be corrected by replacing the seal. Before going to the store, you need to remove the drain tank and take out the rubber seal. It is better to show the removed part to the sellers, who will help you choose a good replacement.
Sometimes it is better not to buy exactly the same seal, as it will fail again after a while. Manufacturers produce consumable parts from the latest materials, the quality of which is superior to previous products. These are the rubber seals that are worth taking. Having installed the purchased consumables in place of the old gasket, install the tank in the reverse order of disassembly. We have already discussed above how to install the drain mechanism and inlet valve, as well as how to secure the tank to the toilet bowl.
Replacing the sealing gasket of the connecting assembly, done with your own hands at home with the assistance of an assistant for convenience
Slowly filling the tank with water
The low rate of water flow into the toilet tank is due to clogged filters. Repair work carried out in the following order:
- by turning the tap handle, turn off the water flowing into the toilet from the cold water supply system;
- unscrew flexible liner from the water supply valve to the toilet, located either below or on the side, depending on the model of the plumbing product;
- in a clogged hose, remove the blockage and check the water pressure in the water supply by lowering the end of the flexible line into the toilet, if it is long enough;
- otherwise, use a five-liter bottle to drain the water plastic bottle or a canister;
- turn on the tap, if the pressure is good, then we proceed to clean the water supply valve from accumulated debris;
- this part is not available in all toilet models, but if it is, it needs cleaning;
- pull the filter out of the valve using pliers, grabbing the part by the small pin;
- We wash the removed grate in the sink under running water. clean water from clogged solids and accumulated mucus;
- then we put the washed filter in place, turn on the water and see if the problem is resolved or not.
View of a dirty valve removed from the water inlet mechanism into the cistern. After cleaning the part, water flows into the toilet bowl at a higher speed
If the problem is not resolved after washing the filter and flexible hose, then we wash the entire water supply valve by removing it from the tank, after first removing the toilet lid.
After all the described actions, the problem is usually solved. The algorithm for repairing a toilet cistern with a button in case of slow filling with water is clearly shown in the video.
Replacing cistern fittings
In the old toilet cistern, we dismantle the old fittings that have become unusable and install new system water supply and drainage. We purchase universal fittings suitable for all toilet flush tanks. To use water economically, we buy a two-button drain mechanism that allows you to change the volume of drainage depending on the type of human waste being flushed.
In such fittings the manufacturer uses:
- dual-mode push-button mechanism;
- manual adjustment of the volume of small and large water discharge;
- drain mechanism stand adjustable to the height of the tank;
- changing the thrust by reinstalling the lever in one of the existing holes;
- clamping nut with rubber gasket;
- valve that closes the drain hole in the toilet bowl.
A mechanism for economical drainage of water from the tank, carried out using two keys, which are activated by a blue or white pin when one of the buttons is pressed
We will replace old fittings. To do this, unscrew the button holding the toilet lid and pull it out of its socket. Let's remove the cover. Let's shut off the water supply to the tank. Disconnect the flexible hose. Unscrew the screws holding the flush tank to the toilet bowl. Remove the tank and place it on the folding seat cover. Remove the rubber sealing gasket, and then unscrew the plastic clamping nut by hand. Then we remove the old drain mechanism.
Next, we install a new drain mechanism, having first removed the rubber compressor and unscrewing the clamping fastening nut. After installing the drain mechanism into the hole in the tank, we fix its position with the removed parts. When installing the tank on the toilet, do not forget about the sealing ring placed on top of the plastic nut. Then we insert the tank pins into special holes in the bowl, screwing wing nuts onto them from below. We tighten the fasteners evenly on both sides, avoiding distortion of the installed part. If necessary, we replace fasteners with new parts with sealing gaskets.
Using two fasteners, the tank is securely attached to the toilet. At the bottom of the bowl, wing nuts are screwed onto the screws, and thin gaskets are first put on
When connecting the water hose to the side inlet valve, hold the part inside the tank from turning. Tighten the nut with a special wrench or pliers. Install the tank cap and tighten the button. If necessary, adjust the stand and move the lever.
A two-key button has two pins that activate the necessary mechanism plum. The length of the pins reaches 10 cm. They are shortened to the required length depending on the height of the tank. Screw it into the button. Insert it into the lid and secure the position of the button from the inside with a nut. Install the lid on the tank. Turn on the water supply. Press the small part of the button, about 2 liters of water are drained. Press most of the button, about six liters of water are drained.
A button gets stuck or stuck: what to do?
To the listed malfunctions of the flush tank, you can add sticking or sticking of the button. This is when you press the button, release it, and it remains in the socket, so the draining does not stop. You have to press the button mechanism several times to return the button to its original position. The problem is solved by cleaning the buttons themselves from rust and dirt. Monthly use of cleaning products to maintain the sanitary condition of the buttons allows you to get rid of this problem once and for all. Some people just pour in a small amount. detergent directly into the push-button mechanism. Under the influence of special means, all dirt dissolves and the buttons do not stick.
A sinking toilet cistern button results in high water consumption, which is prohibitively expensive for the family budget.
As you can see, holding self-repair A toilet cistern with a button is quite possible. Having spent a little time studying the structure and operating principle of the valve mechanisms, you can repair the cistern without outside help. Of course, if plumbing work do not bring you any pleasure, then you should contact professional craftsmen who will cope with any malfunction of the tank and toilet in a matter of minutes. Real professionals only need to take one look at the toilet to understand the nature of the problem. To troubleshoot a problem, plumbers usually always have everything they need with them.
The statistics are merciless: every Russian family has encountered breakdowns of a toilet flush tank at least once. Moreover, in most cases, you can repair or eliminate a leak with your own hands in a couple of minutes. This article will help you understand the structure of this essential element in the house.
Toilet - plumbing fixture, without which not a single city apartment (and most country houses). It is used constantly, and therefore any problem, let alone breakdown, causes serious inconvenience. In most cases, you can set up and repair a toilet tank without the help of a specialist. You just need to understand how it works, what the individual elements in the drain tank are responsible for - and then it immediately becomes clear what the cause of possible problems is.
Roughly speaking, the toilet consists of two parts - a bowl with sewer hole and a tank for draining water. It is in the flush cistern that the entire toilet mechanism is located, all the elements that drive it. By pressing a button or using a lever, we make a simple mechanical system inside the tank. As a result, water flows into the bowl and all waste is washed down the drain.
Toilets come in different sizes and flush types. In some models, when you press a lever or button, the entire tank is emptied, splashing out all the water. In other tanks there are two buttons: depending on your needs, you can drain more or less water. There are low-lying cisterns that are attached directly to the toilet, others are hung on the wall and connected to the bowl with a flush pipe, and others are mounted into the wall (this saves space in the restroom).
The flushing system may also vary: some toilets supply water in a constant direction, while in others the water changes its direction when flushed. The second option is considered more convenient and hygienic, although there is more noise from such a device.
But nevertheless, the internal structure of tanks of any type is approximately the same. And, having understood the operating principles of one, if necessary, you can inspect and repair any other toilet tank.
The internal structure of the cistern consists of several elements:
- flush button;
- filling valve with float;
- drain fittings for the toilet cistern.
When you press a button in the cistern, the valve opens and water is emptied into the bowl, flushing the contents of the toilet. At the same time, the liquid level in the tank becomes lower - and the float reacts to this, falling down along with the water. Reacting to the “readings” of the float, the filling system is activated - and water is again poured into the tank to the desired level.
The toilet tank leaks quite often, this is mainly due to poor-quality fittings (internals), dried out seals and other minor troubles.
Water level in the tank: how to adjust?
One of the most common problems with the flush cistern is the constant flow of water into the toilet. This means that the water level is too high - the system has to continuously release excess liquid. The opposite also happens: the drain is inconvenient to use because there is always too little water in the tank.
As a rule, the problem lies in the float - perhaps it is simply skewed. In this case, the problem can be solved quickly and easily - the float needs to be corrected.
The float in the cistern usually comes in two varieties: on a brass lever and on a plastic lever with a special screw. To adjust the float on the brass lever, you simply need to gently lift it up and down a few times until it is clear in which position the mechanism will work optimally. Raising the float increases the water level, lowering it lowers it.
As for the plastic lever, the level is adjusted by turning the screw (or using a plastic ratchet, with which the lever is set to the correct position).
Repair of the drain tank: main breakdowns and their elimination
However, the malfunction of the drain system does not always depend on the position of the float. Sometimes you have to understand the problem in more detail - but implement simple repair You can still do the internal mechanism of the tank yourself.
The most common problems with the drainage system are:
- the tank leaks at the junction with the toilet bowl (does not hold water and is constantly filling);
- Water constantly flows into the toilet from the tank.
Typically, the causes of the problem are as follows:
- float failure;
- shut-off valve failure;
- poor sealing of pipes.
The toilet tank is leaking: what to do?
If water is constantly seeping into the toilet bowl from the tank, first you need to make sure that the problem is not solved by simply adjusting the float.
If you tried to move and adjust the lever, the tank still does not hold water, then you need to inspect the float itself: there is probably a hole in it or a special membrane has become unusable.
The simplest thing you can do if you find a hole in a float is to simply cover it with a plastic “patch” or wrap the float in a bag. Water will stop getting inside, and the problem will be resolved for some time. However, it is better to replace the float at the first opportunity - such a makeshift repair is unlikely to last long.
How to change the float?
- first of all, it is necessary to shut off the water flowing into the toilet tank, and then completely empty the tank;
- after this, the pipe through which water entered the tank is removed, and the damaged float is removed, and a new one is put in its place;
- the float is installed in the desired position, after which you can replace the pipe, start the water supply again and make sure that the problem is solved.
Stop Valve Repair
There are two ways to fix a broken shut-off device (toilet valve) in the tank: replace only the membrane inside the mechanism or change the valve completely.
To change the membrane, you also need to remove all water from the tank, disassemble the shut-off valve, remove the protective cap and pull out the membrane itself. Theoretically, you can simply wash it. However, experts recommend replacement, since the membrane is generally “ weak point» drainage system, and the first malfunction will certainly be followed by others.
If the shut-off valve needs to be replaced entirely, the water supply to the toilet tank will also be cut off first. After this, the remaining liquid in it is poured out of the tank, the lever is first disconnected from the mechanism, and then the valve itself, secured with fastening nuts, is unscrewed from the water pipe.
A new fitting for the tank is installed in its place, after which the water is turned on, the toilet tank is refilled and the float is installed in the correct position.
The tank is leaking at the junction with the toilet
If water oozes from the place where the tank connects to the toilet bowl, then most likely the problem is a poor seal. As a rule, in this case, it is enough to tighten the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet more tightly, or change the rubber gaskets - they may have dried out.
It happens that the gasket at the point where the tank is attached to the toilet comes across a manufacturing defect. This is not very good news - however, you can simply coat it with a sealing compound, and the leak will be eliminated.
Condensation on the toilet cistern causes many problems - but you can get rid of it only by properly organizing the air movement in the toilet, i.e. check the ventilation openings.
To summarize, we can say that a toilet tank is a simple device that works according to the simplest laws of mechanics. All malfunctions that arise in its operation are eliminated quickly and easily, and it is not always necessary to buy new parts. Thus, having understood the operation of your cistern, you can no longer waste money and time on plumbers, solving all problems yourself.