For grouting plaster manually, a wooden grater is used, consisting of a handle and a cloth (Fig. 102). The handle can be made from any type of wood. They make it exactly according to the hand of the worker and so that fingers can freely pass into it. It is best to fasten the handle to the canvas with wooden dowels, but you can also use ordinary nails.
Rice. 102. Grater
The cloth of the grater is made from pine or spruce. It should not have knots and tars.
During operation, the hands must be dry. Wet hands are more quickly corroded by the solution.
In the process of work, the grater cloth wears out, dowels or nails begin to scratch the plaster, so they should be gradually deepened into the cloth.
When grouting, the grater is taken with the right hand, the canvas is pressed against the surface of the plaster and circular movements are made, directing them counterclockwise, arrows (Fig. 103). Such a grout is called a grout "round".
When grouting, the tubercles and elevated places of the solution are cut off with the ribs of the grater. At the same time, the grater blade moves the solution over the surface, filling individual depressions with it and at the same time compacting the coating. The pressure on the grater should be adjusted, namely: where the bulge is to press, and where the concavity is to loosen.
The cut solution is collected on the edges of the grater. It should be cleaned periodically and used for greasing protirin and shells.
Rice. 103. Round grout
Rice. 104. Petrified
Rice. 105. Overclocking grout
over time, the coating dries out so much that it is hardly rubbed off. To make it softer, the rubbed surface of the plaster should be periodically moistened with water. Wetting is carried out with a brush, which plasterers call a chisel (Fig. 104). The brush can be made of hair, bristles, grass and matting (bast).
When grouting the plaster "round" on its surface, circular traces remain without shells and grouting. With high-quality finishes, the “round” grout is additionally rubbed “overclocked” (Fig. 105). To do this, the grater is well cleaned of the solution, pressed tightly against the surface and they begin to make straight-line movements with it, thereby eliminating all circular traces. The grater should not leave scratches on the surface.
After grouting "overrun" on the surface of the plaster there should be no sinks, protirin, notches, bumps and other defects.
On walls up to 4 m high, there should be only one joint, for which the grout is made in two strokes: one from above to the scaffold, the other from the scaffold to the ceiling. The cleaner the plaster surface is rubbed, the less it requires corrections during painting work.
The greatest cleanliness of the rubbed surface is obtained if the grouting is done with a grater, the canvas of which is upholstered with strong felt or felt.
Conducting overhaul, one way or another, there will be a need to remove old plaster from the walls and apply a new one. Plastering walls with your own hands is a very time-consuming process, but it is quite within the power of everyone. Further in the article, it will be described in detail how to plaster the walls with your own hands and avoid unpleasant mistakes.
Types of walls and methods for their processing
Plaster mortars should consist of different materials depending on venue construction works and composition of the walls. Plastering walls with your own hands will require some responsibility from you, both in the choice of materials and in the process of work.
Surfaces laid out facing brick it is worth entrusting professionals, since it is very difficult to process such a surface with your own hands. The coating of this type is smooth due to which, in some places, the plaster begins to peel off. Therefore, for such walls, auxiliary reinforcement and a specialized primer will be required.
Roughened concrete walls are treated with Betonokontakt, without using a primer with the obligatory addition of quartz. Identical fit plaster on cement base or gypsum.
Smooth concrete walls should be plastered with a mortar of cement with the addition of pieces of quartz and gypsum. Quartz is needed to create a certain roughness that will ensure the best adhesion of the plaster to the wall.
Foam concrete walls should be pre-treated with a deep penetration primer. For plastering, cement or gypsum mortar is more suitable.
Ordinary brick walls must be plastered with cement mortar. In some cases, when processing external structures or walls in rooms with above-average humidity levels, it is allowed to add lime to the mortar for plastering walls with your own hands. The plaster layer must not exceed 30 mm. Upon reaching a layer of 20 mm, reinforcement with a special mesh should be performed to avoid possible destruction of the plaster.
To create a lime-gypsum mortar, 3-4 pieces of lime and 1 share of gypsum are needed.
- In a container filled with water, gypsum is poured in a small layer and instantly mixed.
- We are closely monitoring to ready mix should be of medium thickness.
- Lastly, we add mortar and also mix well.
To make a cement-based mortar, 2-5 particles of sand and 1 particle of cement are needed.
- All components are mixed.
- Little by little water is added.
- Stir the solution until the consistency of the dough.
To make a cement-lime mortar, 6-8 particles of sand, 1 piece of cement and 1-3 particles of lime paste are needed.
- The components are thoroughly mixed.
- Then lime milk is poured and everything is again well mixed.
When choosing a solution for plastering walls with your own hands, you should be especially serious. The durability of the coating depends entirely on the choice of mixture. If you are unsure of the reliability of the choice, it would be useful to consult with an expert in his field in a hardware store. Also, among other things, do not forget that at the present time you can buy ready-made building mix which can be easily diluted with water.
Wall preparation before plastering
First you need to remove all the old plaster and materials, then completely clean the walls from sagging. In the end, there should only be bare walls so that the new wall plaster lays down without complications.
It is very important that the walls are completely free of dust and dirt.
If the walls are made of concrete, with a hammer and a gear, it is necessary to make notches. The size of the notches should be up to 3 mm deep and up to 15 mm in length. For each square meter the surface of the walls, there should be about 250 notches.
If the walls have a wooden structure, proceed to mount the shingles. For such purposes, the use of plywood scraps or wooden slats. The result should be a crate that acts as beacons to improve the adhesion of the plaster to the wall. It is also allowed to replace shingles made of wood with chain-link mesh. It is necessary to fix the mesh on plywood lining strips, paying due attention to ensuring that the distance from the wall to the mesh is at least 3 mm.
On brick walls, carefully increase the depth of the seams between the bricks, then the plaster will better adhere to the walls.
Also, walls made of brick and wood need to be slightly moistened with water, for which an ordinary broom or garden sprayer is perfect.
We finish concrete walls with a primer special purpose, Betonokontakt. Walls made of porous material: silicate brick, foam concrete or aerated concrete, we treat with a deep penetration primer, with a highly absorbent base, the treatment should be performed again. All of the above steps are required to achieve best bonding plaster mortar with walls.
Preparing the plaster solution
When making a plaster mixture with your own hands, be sure to follow the information indicated in the instructions. We make an exception only if the mixture is standard and consists of several, separate components.
Let's consider a method of manufacturing a well-known plaster mixture Rotband. We need 17-18 liters of water and one bag of mixture, 30 kg in size.
Pour water into a suitable container, pour in a little of the mixture, within 6-7 trowels and knead well. Next, pour the mixture remaining in the bag and to prevent lumps, take a drill with a mixing nozzle, mix well. The plaster needs to stand for about 5 minutes, after this, we continue to mix the mixture. During the last mixing, you can add more water or plaster to the container with the solution, then this is prohibited.
pay attention to important factor. Fully ready solution should be used in the interval of 20-30 minutes. Therefore, if you do not have experience and you are not sure that you can do the finishing work so quickly, use only part of the mixture from the bag to start.
So, let's start plastering the walls with our own hands.
The technology is simple, it consists of sequential application of three different layers, with short breaks.
Apply a layer: spray
We plaster the walls using only three layers, the first of them is called spray, the solution for it should be in the form of a creamy mixture, which is more watery in comparison with all subsequent layers.
For walls made of brick and stone, the layer of plaster should reach 4-5 mm, for wooden walls 10 mm.
With the help of a trowel, we collect a small part of the solution into the falcon. From a falcon, a plaster shovel, we take a solution and randomly throw it on the wall, plaster it. All manipulations and movements must be performed only with the hand. From the swing, the solution should not splatter arbitrarily. The method of such application is effective in that the solution, under the mass of impact, partially penetrates into the structure of the wall.
Another, less effective method applying plaster on the walls with your own hands, this is smearing. The falcon with the solution must be brought close to the wall and with unhurried movements, with the help of a trowel, you need to smear the solution over the entire surface of the wall.
Attention, after each passed section of the wall, the tools must be thoroughly washed.
Apply the second layer: primer
Before preparing to apply this layer, make sure that the solution is in a state that vaguely resembles dough. It is allowed to apply a layer of primer only when the first applied layer is completely dry. The degree of readiness is checked by the following method: gently press with a finger and if the spray layer does not sag, then everything is ready to continue plastering the walls with your own hands.
With some accuracy, we throw parts of the mortar onto the surface of the wall and level it so that there are no empty areas left. The surface should be leveled from the bottom up, while not forgetting to remove the excess parts of the solution back into the container with the mixture.
We check that there are no empty areas on the surface, if such are found, we align them in the same way. Don't forget to check everything carefully.
Having finished applying the plaster solution, we level the layer with a trowel, equally in vertical and horizontal directions.
On the wood flooring do not exceed a layer thickness of up to 20 mm.
Applying the final layer: the finish
We start work only after the previous layer has dried.
The required solution should resemble sour cream in appearance. A layer is needed to make up for all past shortcomings.
When preparing the solution for the third layer, all components are carefully passed through a fine sieve to avoid lumps. This layer should be no more than 2 mm thick.
So, first we wet the entire surface of the wall with water. Next, carefully apply a small layer of plaster. We take a trowel and in a circular motion, we level the applied layer. It is not necessary to wait for complete drying, we immediately start grouting.
Grouting plastered walls
For grouting using the overclocking method: we make sharp, linear movements and waves, with our hands, firmly pressing the grater against the wall, this is necessary so that after circular alignment with a trowel, there are no traces left. After finishing the grout, you can additionally walk with a grater, upholstered with felt or felt, to achieve maximum quality.
K category: Plaster work
Grouting and smoothing plaster
Having leveled the soil well, proceed to its covering and grouting. The solution prepared for covering is filtered through a sieve with a mesh section of 2X2 mm and applied in a thin layer, carefully leveling to a thickness of 1-2 mm.
Rice. 1. Husks, whiskers, chamfers and the technique of rubbing them: 1 - husks, whiskers and chamfers; 2 - shaped trowels
As soon as the solution seizes, proceed to the grout. Grouting is done by hand with a wooden float. For the cleanliness of the grout, the grater cloth is sometimes upholstered with dense felt or felt. The order of grouting is as follows. IN right hand the plasterer takes a grater, in the left - a petrified stone. A bucket of water is placed on the floor or on a stand near the workplace to wet the plaster. If the plaster is wet and soft, then it is overwritten without wetting with water. From water, dry plaster becomes softer and rubs faster.
Grouting can be done with a grater in a circular motion, directing them counterclockwise. Such a grout is called round.
The solution, which has accumulated on the edges of the grater, is periodically scraped off on the handle of the stone.
During grouting, a certain force is applied to the grater. The pressing force depends on the hardness of the surface. If the surface is dry, then the pressure on the grater increases. If there is a bump under the grater, then it is compared by increasing pressure on the grater. On even and smooth places, the pressure is correspondingly weakened. During grouting, the grater is not torn off on the surface immediately, but is gradually shifted and one edge is raised.
After grouting, the surface of the plaster should be clean, even, without dents, sags and missing places. Grout round leaves a mark from the work of the grater. In order to get a cleaner grout, without highlighting the annular marks from the trowel, the rubbed around the plaster is additionally dispersed, or, as they say, overrun.
Grouting is carried out after grouting in a circular manner as follows: Take a grater by hand, lightly press it against the surface and make large rectilinear movements with it, sweeping, thereby comparing all the irregularities (annular stripes). When working on the walls, the worker swings the trowel to its full height, smoothing the plaster in two strokes from the ceiling to the scaffold and from the scaffold to the floor level (with a room height of up to 4 m). If the room is higher than 4 m, the grout is dispersed in three strokes.
When grouting the ceiling, the length of the overclocking strips is equal to the possible length of a wave of the hand. Dispersal is carried out along the length of the ceiling. The strips from the grout round must be rubbed in such a way that they converge without layers and joints.
Rice. 2. Plaster smoothing
In addition to grouting, the surfaces are smoothed with trowels. The trowel is a wooden trowel upholstered with rubber. The length of the trowel for trowels is on average 50 cm. When smoothing the surface of the plaster with a trowel for covering, it is recommended to prepare more greasy solutions filtered through a fine sieve. The applied coating is preliminarily leveled with an ordinary trowel, and then they are cleaned and smoothed out with a trowel and smooth out all the roughness.
The smoothing technique consists in the fact that the applied coating is first smoothed vertically and then horizontally, thereby cleaning off the remaining traces from the first operation (Fig. 2).
The methods of working with a trowel and the technique of pressing it are no different from working with a trowel when leveling the solution. In the process of smoothing down, the cavities are smeared with a solution and immediately smoothed out. If, after drying, shells form in some places, they are covered with a solution and smoothed down. The cleanliness of smoothing depends on the skill of the plasterer.
- Grouting and smoothing plaster
Plaster is one of the most popular ways to finish a wall. It allows not only to level and strengthen the wall, but in some cases it can also be used as decorative ornament. Also, this material copes well with the insulation of the room. But many beginners do not know what to do after finishing the wall with plaster. In this article we will tell you how to check the evenness of the walls, how to grout and consider further options processing. Plaster is one of the most popular ways of finishing a wall. It allows not only to level and strengthen the wall, but in some cases it can also be used as a decorative decoration. Also, this material copes well with the insulation of the room. But many beginners do not know what to do after finishing the wall with plaster. In this article we will tell you how to check the evenness of the walls, how to grout and consider further processing options.
What to do after plastering
Plastering is by no means the end of the work. There are a number necessary procedures. These include:
- grouting the surface with sandpaper;
- additional alignment;
- painting the wall if desired;
- putty.
Although the plaster itself does a good job of leveling the walls, it is often necessary to carry out additional processing. We will talk about this further.
Some professionals recommend continuing work only after a month. This time will allow the solution to gain strength and be well fixed on the walls. Some use special dehumidifiers to speed up the process. But in most cases, work continues after the day.
Summer is considered best time for wall plastering. To dry, you can simply open the windows and doors.
Advice! Try to avoid sudden changes in temperature, as this can lead to cracking of the surface. Do not let fresh plaster freeze.
As you can see, drying is not simple task, as it seems. It is extremely important to follow temperature regime And weather conditions.
Removing beacons
Quite often, beacons are installed before applying the plaster. They allow you to work evenly over the entire plane. But after the processing is completed, they will need to be painlessly removed. Since they are often made using metal tools, which means they are prone to corrosion. Corrosion, in turn, can lead to cracking or falling off of the wall finish.
Sometimes galvanized beacons are used, but they also corrode. We recommend that you carry out the extraction as carefully as possible to reduce damage to the wall. After the structures are removed, surface treatment can be continued.
Wall grouting and leveling
The alignment process takes place immediately after the beacons are removed. This will require grouting with sandpaper. Or you can use a special metal mesh for alignment.
To check the evenness of the wall after plastering, you can simply look at it along. But we recommend that you use special tool- the rule. With it, you can take more accurate measurements.
After all wall defects have been eliminated, you need to proceed to priming. The primer will increase the adhesion rate, which will allow paint or wallpaper to better fix. It will protect the walls from the formation of mold or fungus.
The drying time of the primer depends on the temperature in the room. Usually you can continue to do after a couple of hours, but sometimes you have to wait a day. Watch the instructional video on how to properly grout:
Wall putty
Surface treatment with putty is a rather important and difficult process. Before proceeding to the next step, you will need to select the type of material. Let's take a closer look at each of them.
Cement
This type is quite often used to finish the surface of the wall after plastering. Its advantages include:
- good protection against temperature changes;
- moisture resistance;
- an easy application method that even a beginner in the construction business can handle;
- low price.
Due to these advantages, cement putty has gained such popularity. But, unfortunately, there are a number of disadvantages:
This type is mainly used for finishing the walls of rooms with a high moisture index. Here she has no equal. Another cement putty is often used for finishing the facades of buildings.
Gypsum
This type is used quite often. Its advantages include:
- no shrinkage after wall cladding;
- the likelihood of cracking is minimized;
- plasticity of the solution;
- ease of application, which even a beginner can handle;
- high level of adhesion.
It also has a number of disadvantages:
When choosing such a material, keep in mind that you will have to wash the walls with extreme caution. It is also not suitable for exterior finish, because if it rains or snows, the putty will simply fall off.
Polymer
IN Lately this type of solution is gaining popularity. This choice is easily explained by a number of advantages. Let's look at them in more detail:
Also, polymer putty has a long service life. This material is not subject to cracking and drying. However, the mixture is relatively expensive and difficult to apply. Here, a beginner can no longer cope on his own.
This type can be used for internal and external walls. The high price can be explained good quality putties.
Putty application
After choosing and acquiring a mixture, you can proceed to its application. First of all, apply the first layer to the wall. To do this, use a thick spatula. It is better to start the process from the corners of the wall, you can move in any direction.
After it dries, you will need to check the evenness of the walls again. You will also need to do the grouting again. It is better to use a skin with a fine fraction. Next, the final layer of putty is applied. After it dries, you can proceed to painting or wallpapering. We suggest you watch the following video:
wall painting
For wall processing paint will do almost any type. You can use acrylic, latex, water-based or oil paints.
The method of application is also quite simple. Since the alignment has already been done, there is no need to worry about this. You will need to remove all dirt and dust from the wall. If priming has not been carried out, we still recommend doing it. This will help the paint adhere better to the surface. Then you will need to prepare the paint according to the instructions on the package. And after all the procedures are completed, you can proceed to painting. For this it is better to use a roller. We recommend watching the video to see the painting process in practice.
As you can see, after plastering, the work is far from over. You will need to do a lot of procedures, although they are all quite easy. Watch the tutorial video to better understand what to do after plastering the wall and see the grouting process in practice:
Wall grouting after plastering is mandatory. In order to start painting the wall, it must first be leveled. There are two types of surface leveling, namely: plaster, that is, a rougher finish and putty, a fine finish.
Today we will tell you how to grout plaster and it will be already latest work before wallpapering or painting. You can look at some moments on the video in this article and the photo and this will help to avoid mistakes.
Experienced craftsmen know: the more carefully the wall is plastered, the easier it will be to finish it. Doing everything with your own hands is quite possible to do everything qualitatively.
In their work, they usually use wide spatulas, because even if the material is applied very carefully, small bumps and sagging will remain on the surface, like traces of sharp corners of the spatula blade.
Attention: Another rule - before you start polishing, for best result, the wall must be thoroughly dried for at least one day.
Choosing the right tool
After they are dried, but even before priming, they are grouted or polished. This is a mechanical work and therefore it is necessary to carefully select a tool for grouting plaster, because the quality of work will depend on this. Let's take a closer look at how to rub plaster.
The right choice will save your strength and save time:
- In the event that the wall surface is small, it makes sense to use a sanding bar.
- If the wall area is significant, you can use surface grinding electric car, but, in this case, you will have to process the corners manually.
- Perhaps the wall has large area and, at the same time, a complex surface with protrusions or bends. This is where a powerful eccentric sander works best.
Attention: The plane of any grouting tool must be completely smooth. Even small scratches are not allowed.
It is a base equipped with a handle with clamps, where sandpaper or a grinding mesh is fixed. Before starting work, make sure that you have a small supply of sandpaper, because worn sheets require urgent replacement. The mesh should be replaced when its canvas wears out.
How to find out? When, while grinding the surface, you feel that the previous effect is no longer there, most likely this moment has come.
So:
- The greatest preference in the work is given to the grinding grid, because it does not wear out as quickly as paper, and putty dust is not so terrible for it. When sanding, dust does not linger in the mesh holes. Therefore, despite the higher price, it is recommended to use it. Before selling, the mesh is cut to the size of the beam, and therefore, when going to the store, determine what size of grinding mesh you need.
- Sandpaper has to be changed often, so the savings will be small. When buying, choose paper in rolls or large sheets to cut it yourself to fit your sanding stone.
Attention: Remember to always leave a few millimeters that will go under the clamps of the bar.
- What kind of sandpaper do you need? Determine this experimentally by trying small pieces of different grit on the wall. Paper that is too smooth will fail immediately, and paper that is too rough will fail. the right quality processing.
- Depending on what you plan to cover the walls in the future, the quality of grinding its surface may be different. If it is being prepared for painting, then it is necessary to polish it several times. First, they are polished with rough sandpaper with a grit of 60. Such paper should remove the most noticeable particles from the surface to be treated. After that, paper or sanding mesh with a grit of 100 to 120 is taken. They will help give the surface a perfect smoothness.
Attention: If it is planned to wallpaper the wall, the second grinding can be omitted.
Using a grinder
It has its undeniable advantage in terms of saving time and effort. The quality of the treated surface cannot be compared, it is incomparably better.
And one more advantage: lack of dust. Modern machines have a special holder design that allows you to work long time without feeling tired.
- And there are machines with a retractable work surface. They allow you to work on remote sections of the wall.
- They also differ in their power. The instructions say so. The higher this indicator, the more it can work without overheating.
Can be done by yourself special device, which allows fine processing complex surfaces such as corners or niches. To do this, you need a piece of plastic, having a width of about 7 centimeters.
Then you have to cut a piece plastic profile appropriate size. Now you need to glue on its back side double sided tape sandpaper (can be of different grain sizes) and cut off the corners, so as to give this “mini-grater” device the shape of a pencil. It is necessary to work with a corner, cutting (sharpening) it as it wears out.
How to protect your apartment from dust
Before we start Finishing work take measures to ensure that the fine dust that inevitably forms when grinding the walls does not penetrate into the rest of the apartment.
- To do this, purchase a protective polyethylene film for furniture and carefully wrap everything that is left in the room, be sure to secure the film with tape. Cover window openings with the same film, securing it along the entire length and width.
- On the front door hang a towel moistened with water, put the same towel under the threshold, and close the door gap with another one.
- Take care of yourself: work in special glasses and a mask. Shake out your work clothes thoroughly before washing them.
How to sand the walls after puttying
After the preparation is completed, you can start working. Grouting plaster video will show you the sequence of work. First, make a plan of sorts. To do this, use lighting: illuminate the surface of the wall with a powerful flashlight.
All irregularities will be noticeable, because they will cast long shadows on the surface. Circle them in order to notice which areas need to be especially carefully worked on.
Grinding is usually done from top to bottom. Starting from the corner, with a little pressure, spiral movements are carried out. Significant force can be harmful and break fresh putty. They work, starting and ending always with sandpaper or a sanding grid of the same grain size.
All small depressions noticed are leveled later, after the wall surface has been primed (see). They are carefully puttied using a soft rubber spatula.
How to check the quality of the work done:
- Firstly using lighting by directing the light of the lamp along the wall.
- Secondly applying to the surface building level to determine if there are any uneven areas. All defects are eliminated with the help of the same grinding bar.
But the work is not finished yet. After grinding, the entire treated surface will be covered fine dust, which must be disposed of before painting or wallpapering. How to do it?
If there is an old vacuum cleaner that has served its purpose, which is not a pity to clog with grinding dust, you can use it. And you can brush off the dust with a soft brush and carefully, being afraid to blur the putty, wipe it several times with a slightly damp cloth, waiting for the surface to dry after the previous time.
Attention: Remember that putty is a very soft and docile material. Therefore, it is safe to say that, following the advice of this article, you will undoubtedly enjoy fine surface finishing work.
You already know how to properly rub plaster. Good graters you can do everything efficiently and quickly. Their price is slightly higher, but they are durable in work. And the plane does not deteriorate. So don't skimp on this.