No matter how diverse the assortment of available finishing materials, ceramic tiles, although they belong to the veteran "veterans" of the construction market, are in no hurry to give up their leading positions in popularity. It occupies a very specific "niche" - this material, due to its unique performance characteristics, is used for external and external work, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, outbuildings and even elements of garden design.
The tile has practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of the ceramic allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when facing floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since with all its positive qualities, it is still very affordable. And one more important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to lay the tiles on the floor, fill your hand a little, show diligence, then you can quite cope with such work on your own.
But before tackling the issues of styling, it would be logical to consider the problems of its correct selection.
When going to the store to select and purchase the necessary material, the landlord should “arm” himself with basic knowledge of what tiles are usually on sale.
Choosing a tile for a floor with an eye solely for its decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good salon-store, trained sales consultants can be of great help, who will tell you which tile model is intended for what purposes. But it's still better to be able to navigate the icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot in themselves. The most widespread symbols that can occur are shown in the table:
1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of a porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. There is no point in spending money on purchasing such a tile for further flooring in a heated room.
2 - The foot on an inclined plane is a symbol of the anti-slip qualities of the fabric. For rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where moisture from the street is often brought in on shoes - a very important criterion. Often such an icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For the mentioned premises the best choice will slightly rough tiles with a specified coefficient of at least 0.75.
3 - A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes it is found with the image of a drill) - the tiles have increased characteristics of surface strength, resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for kitchen floors - accidentally dropped dishes will not seriously damage the coating.
4 - Such a pictogram is always accompanied by a numerical value - this is the thickness ceramic tiles... For laying on the floor, material is usually purchased with a thickness of the order of 7 - 8 mm.
5 - Bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined based on the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the higher the quality of the material (for example, in porcelain stoneware this indicator is much higher than in ordinary tiles). However, tiles should be laid on the floor so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc.
6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, you cannot purchase it for laying on the floor.
7 - But the image of the footprint from the shoe speaks for itself - this tile is designed specifically for the floor.
8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive, abrasive load. In accordance with the international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 classes of wear resistance:
| Wear resistance class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7) | Application area |
|---|---|
| I | Such tile will fit for rooms with a minimum load, where there is never an intensive movement of people (for example, a bathroom, a toilet). Outdoor shoes are not worn in such premises, and they do not have close proximity to the exit to the street. |
| II | This tile is for rooms in which they also wear slippers, but the traffic intensity is already somewhat higher. |
| III | The durability of this class allows ceramic tiles to be used in hallways or kitchens. |
| IV | High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with heavy traffic - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. In the conditions of apartments or private houses, it makes no sense to apply |
| V | The highest class of abrasive resistance, applicable for coatings with extremely high traffic intensity of people and even some types of transport. Scope of application - train stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, production facilities, etc. |
9 - This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tiles have passed the double firing procedure. Such a material usually has a glossy glazed surface, and is more suitable for installation on walls. In addition, the double firing technology assumes an increased porosity of ceramics - and this is a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.
10 - The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, other aggressive substances, including any types household chemicals... The letter indicator of this material property is "AA".
11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing a tile - in one box there can be tiles of different shades.
12 – Notwhich expensive types of ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of noble metals: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).
Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the given example, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, icon 14 - that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor space, and symbol 16 - that the box contains 24 tiles.
Some of the specific properties of the material will be indicated by the pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21. Such ceramic tiles are designed for special operating conditions. It could be train stations and and airports, medical institutions, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. There is no point in purchasing such a tile for flooring in a private house or apartment.
What other points should not be overlooked:
- If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (no more than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
- The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tiles also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be installed. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, too-dimensional tiles will not work - there will be a lot of waste. Yes, and large tiles in such rooms will look somewhat ridiculous. In addition, do not forget that neatly laying large tiles is much more difficult.
- If several packs of ceramic tiles are purchased, it is imperative to select the product of one batch.
This is necessary for two reasons:
- Firstly, even a completely identical tile model, but different batches may have slight deviations in shade. In a store environment, this may not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a covering on the floor and in normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.
Different parties may differ in calibration - linear dimensions of the tiles
- Secondly, fluctuations in the linear dimensions of the tiles are not excluded. It is clear that the cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precision electronics. But it still remains ceramics, and there may be small errors, therefore, calibration of finished products is mandatory. In one batch, there must always be tiles of the same size, and the difference between different batches can even be several millimeters. When laying such tiles on the floor, especially indoors large area, inconsistencies visible to the naked eye may occur.
- Be sure to check the packaging for broken ones, cracked tiles or chipped on the surface. Sellers may be convinced that marriage is inevitable and must be resigned to. No, you don't need to, you pay your money for a quality product.
- It is generally accepted that a certain reserve should be purchased, 10% more than the area of the premises. This will be spent on "cuts" and in cases of compensation for any annoying misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy tiles later in order to replenish the missing quantity - this was already mentioned when it came to the parties.
By the way, if styling is planned tile, then the reserve can even be slightly increased - up to 15%. With this technology, it is more difficult to fit the material along the walls, there is more waste and, in addition, the likelihood of making some mistakes, but inexperience, is much higher.
How to lay tiles on a concrete floor
The process of tiling the floor with ceramic tiles can be roughly divided into four main stages:
- Surface preparation for laying.
- Carrying out the necessary markup, drawing up a work diagram.
- Laying ceramic tiles on glue solution.
- and finishing works.
Preparing the floor surface for laying tiles
The requirements for the base for laying the tiles are, in principle, simple - it must be strong, stable, and provide good adhesion to adhesive composition... How is this achieved?
Since we are talking about a concrete base, then first it is necessary to make a thorough revision of the old screed, on which the tile is planned to be laid. No need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.
- First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are not more than 2–3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, it is stable.
- If during the control examination the places of screed detachment, concrete crumbling, deep oiling are revealed, it is necessary to remove them up to the “healthy” surface, both in width and depth. Wide cracks and crevices must be cut to a width of 10 - 15 mm.
- There should be no traces of paint, oil products, grease, remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is cleaned off to clean concrete.
- All protrusions must be cut down - if you can sometimes look through the fingers at a slight depression, since it will still be filled with glue during the laying process, then even the smallest tubercle will make even laying simply impossible.
- After that, a thorough cleaning is carried out with dedusting of the surface. In order for the repair sucking to lay down well, it is necessary to prime all the places to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
- A repair composition is being prepared - it can be a "classic" cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, but it will dry for a long time.
The finished and completely solidified screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.
Floor markings for laying ceramic tiles
Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if their location on the floor is planned correctly. A messy, obliquely laid tile can completely fulfill the interior
There are many techniques and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of their scale in this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, "classic" method requires precision and accuracy.
It is very risky to start planning laying from the wall, since the slightest flaw will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.
The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, carefully measure the distance between opposite walls and mark the midpoints. They are connected with a straight line (usually done with a coated cord), and a longitudinal baseline is obtained.
Now you need to draw a second, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that the strictest perpendicularity is observed. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous "Egyptian triangle": 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, this is a triangle with legs that are multiples of 3 and 4, and a hypotenuse that is multiple of 5.
For example, we measure from the point of intersection of the legs 900 and 1200 mm. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.
Once the lines have been drawn and their perpendicularity checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start laying out. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a "dogma" for the beginning of laying - they will not make it difficult to carry out a parallel transfer in any direction.
For example, if Entrance door in a spacious room it is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles - along the laid reference lines. The principle is that, when entering the room, a flat area appears, without gouges and fit. (see pos. "a" in the figure).
But in a room small in area, with a displacement of the exit to the edge (pos. "B"), and even, perhaps, having a complex shape or stationary obstacles, the beginning of masonry can be smstee to a free "patch" - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but the entrance will turn out to be "frontal".
In any case, you should never be lazy - you should conduct a control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles "dry", without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.
Do not neglect the initial "dry" layout of the tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location
Such a simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure the distances, finally decide on the installation scheme, that is, focus on one of the principles:
1 - in a small room, for example, in a bathroom or kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the "starting line", provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with whole tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing fixtures.
2 - the laying is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow areas for complementing fragments (brown arrows). Advantageous in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of the quality of the masonry, it is advisable to leave areas not narrower than ⅓ of the tile width near the walls.
3 - the arrangement looks a little more impressive with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with extended fragments along the walls (blue arrows). Such a coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view, it is more reliable than No. 2.
4 - stacking diagonally - will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the disadvantages is a more complex design, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.
If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will be work in progress- from the far corner to the entrance, or with dividing the space into several areas in straight stacked rows, followed by filling them.
You can also "fill" the space in different ways. So, some masters carry out the styling orderly. Others prefer the "ladder" scheme with a sequential increase in the number of simultaneously stacked rows.
"Filling" the space can be performed linearly, or as shown in the figure - stepwise
By the way, there are supporters and laying of ceramic tiles on the floor "at a run" or even chaotic - sometimes this is included in the design idea of finishing the room. But in the conditions ordinary house nevertheless, they prefer to be limited to a straight pattern of laying, "seam to seam".
Laying tiles on the floor
- So, we are preparing the necessary tools and materials for laying.
- For work, you will need spatulas, ordinary, with a width of 100 to 250 mm, and notched, with a height of the created furrow of 8 - 10 mm. For grouting, it is a good idea to get an elastic rubber trowel.
- You will need a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment for mixing a tile, an appropriate container for the same purposes.
- Always at hand should be building level.
- In some cases it will be necessary to apply force to put the tiles in place. It is convenient to use a rubber mallet for this purpose.
- You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).
- It is necessary to create a stock of calibration crosses of the required thickness, plastic wedges for height alignment.
- In order not to distribute dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags, a sponge for wiping off the solution from the front surface of the tile.
- Probably, in our time, no one thinks about self-production tile glue - you can always buy it in the store. When choosing, you need to check the purpose of the composition - except for the usual ones, intended for most interiors, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for the street, especially resistant or for so-called " complex surfaces» , for the system of "warm floors", etc.
The glue is diluted by gradually adding the dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring using a mixer or drill. The composition should turn out to be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a sufficiently dense consistency - so that the ridges created with a notched trowel do not spread.
After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to "ripen" for 5 minutes, then stir again for 2 ÷ 3 minutes - and you can start laying.
Do not prepare too much mortar at once, especially if you have no experience with laying ceramic tiles. The term of his "life" is limited - this is necessarily indicated in his instructions. If the glue begins to thicken noticeably during work, then you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water again - it will lose its qualities.
- Beginning craftsmen, apparently, after listening to old, irrelevant advice or reading somewhere about it, soak the tiles in water before laying them on the floor. By doing this, they are making a gross mistake.
A similar approach is possible if the tile is laid on a regular cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And all modern building mixtures- adhesives for ceramic tiles, designed to be applied specifically to a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce the performance of the glue, and the tiles will begin to "dance" and fall off over time.
Therefore, before laying the first tile, once again carefully read the instructions for using the purchased tile glue - everything is probably indicated there.
- Where should the glue be applied - on the floor or on the tiles? There is no consensus on this issue. Someone likes to apply to the tiles - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.
On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately smear a large area of the floor, and then concentrate on laying the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not be in time).
Another option is to pre-coat the floor surface with glue.
There is also a third advice - to coat both there and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tile is perpendicular - this is how all cavities are guaranteed to fill, maximum adhesion is ensured.
- After being coated with glue, the tile is laid on the surface in the right place, pressed tightly to the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
- The work continues in the same order, with the obligatory installation of calibration crosses - they will allow you to clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.
When fitting each tile, its horizontal position must be checked using a building level. Immediately carried out necessary adjustments- adding or removing mortar, inserting a small wedge, etc.
- It is necessary to ensure that no excess glue remains in the inter-tile gap - this space will be needed to fill the seams. So it is better to remove the glue right away, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together with that, from the front surface of the tile, immediately remove the stains of the solution with a rag or sponge, preventing them from drying out.
- Distance crosses are left between the tiles until the mortar has set for the first time. Then, when the tile has already found immobility, the crosses must be removed - you cannot leave them in the seams until the glue has completely solidified, since then there will be difficulties with extraction.
Video: a visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor
- Modern devices for quick laying of tiles - the so-called leveling systems - are very convenient to use. The set includes stand clamps (disposable elements) and wedges (can be reused).
- After the first tile is laid on the glue, well pressed and inserted in a level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides, so that they go under the tile with their heels. The thickness of the clamp foot will determine the seam size. The clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.
Installed racks-clamps ...
Then the next tile is laid. The wide heel of the clamp is also underneath.
... then another tile is laid ...
A wedge is inserted and threaded to the limit into the clamp, where it will be fixed with a ribbed surface on the hooks. Very important - the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tile.
… The wedges are inserted until they stop and fully engage.
- Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge "pulls" the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, control with the help of a level still has not been canceled.
- The wedges must remain in this position until the adhesive is completely dry. They are then removed with light side blows using a rubber mallet. The design of the polymer clamps is such that they withstand tensile stress, but break off immediately when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.
- Wedges, as already mentioned, can be used further, and broken off hooks are disposed of.
Video: laying tiles using a tile leveling system
Tile cutting
Previously, it was exclusively about laying a whole tile, but in practice there are never cases when everything is limited to this. So now it's time to look at the tile-cutting problem.
- Installation of fragments is recommended not immediately, but a day after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will already set well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
- When marking tiles for cutting positions, one must not forget about the inter-seam spacing - an amendment must be made to it.
- There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:
1. The most convenient way is to use a tile cutter, a tabletop tool that gives an even and accurate cut. It is enough to put the tile with a marking line along the central ledge, draw a roller away from you with an effort along the surface of the tile, and then, resting the paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.
Most handy tool- tile cutter
With even a little experience of the work of the master, there is practically no marriage in such a cut.
2. Manual tile cutter- a fairly convenient tool, but already requiring more dexterity from the worker.
First, the roller is drawn along the intended risk line. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cut... Move your hands - and the tile should be divided into two parts.
Similarly, cutting is carried out using a conventional glass cutter, with the only difference that breaking is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a line placed on the bottom of the workbench along the line cut metal rod (nail or wire).
With all the advantages of manual and tabletop tile cutters, they allow you to cut tiles exclusively in a straight line.
3. Grinder with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when you need to cut tiles with an angle or create complex shapes. The main difficulty here is to ensure reliable fixation of the tile when working with a grinder, so that it does not fly out or crack.
Tiles can be precisely cut to size with a diamond grinder
Tiles can be cut right through - when complex parts are required. If straight long sections are cut off, then you can only violate the integrity of the upper enamel layer - then it will be easy to break the tile along the intended line.
Special attention to precautionary measures - eyes and face must be covered with a mask, so how is not excluded scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.
4. Small areas tiles can be removed with pliers.
In this case, in the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply a frequent mesh with a glass cutter roller. Then, using pliers, they gently break out very small fragments, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.
If necessary, any minor irregularities left after cutting can be removed with a bar wrapped in coarse (80) sandpaper. With large teeth, they can be "corrected" with ticks. If a pronounced sharp edge remains, then it is better to start with a round file.
The process of laying the cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.
Special care should be taken when cutting tiles and laying tiles. Ceramics can crack and not along the intended line, which means that there is a high probability of getting a cut injury to the hand when pressed. In addition, broken edges can have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should only be carried out with protective gloves.
Seam sealing
After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting.
- First of all, it is necessary to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to their full depth and width.
- Preparing jointing solution - grout... She may be on cement base or be an epoxy two-component compound.
1. V living conditions more often cement grouting is used (the so-called class WITHG 2 according to EN 13888).
Cement grout
They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically packaged dry mixes, they can have different tinting - there is always an opportunity to choose the most suitable for general design color. They are usually closed to the desired consistency with water. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of stress, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.
2. V Lately epoxy-based grouting (class RG according to EN 13888) is rapidly gaining popularity. These are two-component compounds that are prepared immediately before starting the filling of the joints.
The "life" of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions to ensure that it is worked out before it hardens.
Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more ductile and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and in addition, there are many similar grouts on sale with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.
The only significant drawback of epoxy grouting (except for a certain difficulty with proper preparation workers) - this is still a very high price, very limiting the scope of their use.
- The finished compound is drawn on a rubber trowel or rubber float and applied with force to the seam area, usually 45 degrees from the seam line. Such a trajectory will provide the most complete and dense filling of the inter-seam space.
- After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - later this will be much more difficult. Usually, this is started when a white bloom appears on the grout remaining on the surface of the tile - it begins to dry out (as a rule, after 20 - 30 minutes).
To do this, take a foam rubber sponge, well washed and wrung out, and remove the remains of the fugue with it. The movements are usually the same, and when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. In this case, one must try not to touch the seams so as not to wash the fugue out of there. The sponge should be rinsed thoroughly as often as possible, with a constant change of water. By the way, water plays a double role here - it washes away impurities and participates in hydration. cement composition grouting material.
After 3 — 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again with a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries up after washing, the remaining light cement coating can be easily removed by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft cloth.
After that, the ceramic tiles will already take on their "ceremonial" appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.
Video: an option for grouting joints on a tiled floor
However, if the cladding was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out another simple operation - to smear the seams water repellent.
This is done very simply - the composition is abundantly applied to the seams with a thin brush. Such processing will give the composition of the fugue water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life of the ceramic coating, prevent moisture from accumulating in these places, and facilitate cleaning.
When the water repellent is absorbed and dries up, you can put the final order. You need to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the whole multi-stage process of laying tiles on the floor is behind!
Archaeologists claim that they began to lay tiles on the floor and walls, decorating a dwelling or a room, in ancient Babylon. The beautiful tiles that were used to decorate the surfaces of the halls for the kings of antiquity never cease to amaze the scientists who made these findings. Each tile had its own manufacturing technology. Each particle played a large role in the final design. Not a single generation will remain indifferent to seeing this beauty, and the complexity of the work is admirable. Modernity makes this work easier, allowing you to purchase already ready-made options... Making it is easier, the work is done faster, and the possibility of replacing the marriage is much higher.
Dear masters, I may not come in handy when saving correct sequence preparation of the coating for laying the tiles yourself. The costs will be minimal. And if you calculate the price of tools and the material used, you can save a lot. If you nevertheless decide to lay the ceramic tiles yourself, then you need to adhere to certain rules. They are designed to be able to retain the attractiveness of the final work and its durability.
You need to lay the tiles, observing the sequence:
- Prepare the surface;
- Mark the position of the initial row and set support limits;
- Lay the first row;
- Fill the entire surface with solid tiles;
- Cut and arrange the remaining pieces;
- After all, wipe the seams.
Preparation means: plaster the walls and get rid of the remnants of the previous coating. Remove all skirting boards, clean the wall from dust and dirt. If the floor is laid, then it is necessary to form a screed. If this is a room with high humidity, you need to add a layer of waterproofing.
Before laying the tiles, markings are made.
A plastic corner is placed at the bottom of the wall, on which the first tiles are oriented. A line is required to control the vertical stacking. The floor, unlike the wall, starts from the far corner. Lay out a full line at the door, so as not to lose the drawing later. Having completed all the work with solid tiles, you should start cutting the missing pieces and laying them. It is better to lay them after they are completely filled with whole pieces. After waiting for the glue solution to dry, you can take out all the crosses and rub the seams. Choose any grout: cement-based, silicone or epoxy. Before grouting, the laid tiles and the joints between them should be well cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.
How to lay tiles correctly
For a competent choice of tiles, it is necessary to take into account its characteristics: moisture resistance, price, resistance to large temperature changes, composition.
The sequence of work on laying tiles:
- Starting point;
- Adhesive laying;
- Laying tiles with glue;
- Pruning;
- Grout.
In order to start laying tiles, you need to decide on the pattern and the number of elements on the surface. After that, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the tile, and apply required amount adhesive composition. The adhesive is applied to the surface with a spatula and leveled until an even layer is formed. The tiles are laid on the glue.
The horizontality is checked by the level.
In order to level the tile, use a rubber hammer: you need to knock on its plane. Crosses are placed between the tiles, which affect the thickness of the joint. If necessary, the tile can be adjusted to size by cutting it with a grinder or other tool. The final result can be seen in a couple of days, this time is necessary for the adhesive to harden.
Do-it-yourself high-quality tile laying
The characteristics of the tiles chosen depend on the room in which they will be used. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a tile that will meet the criteria of the room where it will be used. Premises, "friendly" with tiles - bathroom, kitchen, sauna, hallway.
Tools required for tiling:
- Cutter;
- Saw;
- Glue;
- Level;
- Gloves;
- Yardstick;
- Scraper;
- Primer;
- Container for liquid.
For rooms with a high degree of humidity, it is worth choosing a tile that is more resistant to this criterion. If this is a reusable room (hallway), you should choose a tile that will not show signs of wear. For the bath, it is better to use tiles that are resistant to high temperatures and with a matte finish to prevent falls. For the kitchen, it is necessary to choose a tile that has high resistance to impacts and exposure to heat, as well as chemicals.
In order to properly lay the tiles without screeds, it is necessary to prepare a solution. Not worth using special mixture made of ceramic glue. It is better to use a cement-based mixture with the addition of sand and PVA glue.
It should be borne in mind that by adding liquid and glue to this mixture, it must be made not liquid, but thick.
Mixing can be done on the floor. This mixture is styled. Evenness is checked using a level. After that, the tile is removed and the surface on which it was glued is additionally moistened with water, bringing the solution to a more liquid consistency. Next, you should finally lay the tiles in the place where they were earlier. After carrying out such manipulations, the solution is saturated with water and has all the right qualities... At the end of the installation, it is necessary to give the solution a few days to dry.
Materials used:
- Ceramic tile;
- Cement-based mortar;
- Leveling tools;
- Water.
This method is suitable for people who have experience in construction works... Before laying out the tiles with this method, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the long instructions and the list of materials, the sequence for performing such work.
Hand-made correct laying of tiles on the floor
The correct styling depends on several elements. When choosing tiles for the floor in our house, we are guided by its location in the apartment. If the tile is chosen for the balcony or hallway, take into account its size. Large tiles are more suitable for these premises. A bathroom or kitchen needs small tiles. There is a tendency to make tiles in the kitchen different types and drawings. Selection of tiles in the bathroom with original ornament, which will competently fit the water theme and give the room its own flavor.
To be able to properly lay tiles on the floor, the following sequence must be followed:
- Floor preparation for laying;
- Application of the solution to the surface to be laid;
- Leveling the solution over the surface;
- Installation of tiles on the surface;
- Checking and adjusting the horizontal position of the tile using tools and dismantling the scrap;
- Filling the joints after blowing them out with a vacuum cleaner.
Regardless of the location of the tiles and their properties, the installation is as consistent as possible. Materials and tools are selected based on budget and convenience. It is also worth paying attention to the class of tiles and their quality, because modern times are rich in materials and binders.
Too porous tiles are not at all suitable for a bath, but it will be good to serve in the hallway.
Pro's answer: how to lay tiles (video)
If there are children in the house, then the cleanliness of the floor and walls will fade into the background, since the tile is remarkably clean and does not dry for long. It is a fact that tiles do not retain heat well. This is its disadvantage. Therefore, it is worth having underfloor heating or a nice rug. Over time, scuffs form on the tiles, and appearance fades. It is worth taking a responsible approach to the maintenance of tiles. The steam cleaner looks after her perfectly. After exposure to steam on the tile, you must wipe it with a dry cloth. When buying a tile, you should take it with a margin, in case of mechanical damage.
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bling ceramic tiles, tiles, are often called tiles. The spread of the German word (kachel) in wide popular circles is amazing. Apparently, tiling, that is, laying tiles, as a finishing method has long had strong associations with German craftsmen. We'll try to figure it out how to lay or lay tiles do it yourself in Russian.
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Preparation of the surface for laying tiles
The goal is to obtain a flat surface, a base on which the tiles will be glued. The more accurately the base matches what you want to get in the end, the better. According to the norms, deviations from the vertical at a height of two meters should not exceed 3 mm, and on the plane under a two-meter rail applied anywhere there should not be more than two gaps, each one more than a millimeter in size.
Preparation can be reduced to, but serious preparations for work may also be needed.
Leveling the surface, if required, is performed in a single layer. You can learn more about it from other materials on the site.
Necessary tools for working with tiles
It is impossible to imagine how to lay a tile (tile) with your own hands, if there is no the right tools... Without them, work is inconvenient at best, and usually impossible:
Tile cutter. Thin (up to 6 mm) tiles can be cut with an ordinary roller glass cutter, breaking against the flat edge of the table, but it is more convenient to use a lever cutter. For tiles from 8 mm, you cannot do without a lever tile cutter, and for thicker and (or) embossed tiles you will need an electric tile cutter, at worst a "grinder".
Bubble level. For work in an apartment, a level with a length of about 60 cm is usually sufficient (but not less than double the height of the tile).
Large pliers, pliers, or pliers. It will be needed to "nibble" small pieces of tiles when fitting in the places where the communications are output.
Sharpening bar. For chamfering tiles.
Diamond "string", circular cutter ("ballerina"), diamond drills. For cutting holes: round holes of various diameters - "ballerina", drills; complex shape- string.
Capacities. Large for glue and small for mixing grout. A bucket made of black technical plastic is suitable for the glue, it is flexible enough and easy to clean. The grout sets quickly, knead it in small portions, for which you can even use a cut PET bottle. However, it is better to stock up on half of a children's rubber ball for grouting.
Spatulas, flat and comb.
Joints for seams. A piece of silicone-insulated cable with a diameter of about a centimeter, or a round rod with a silicone tube, is suitable.
Drill mixer You can do without it, but for volumes from 10 m 2 it already makes sense to buy.
Roulette, building angle, felt-tip pen (marker), 0.8 mm fishing line.
Distance templates and wedges. Made of plastic or metal. Plastic ones are in the form of crosses of a certain thickness, for seams up to 5 mm their thickness is a multiple of 0.5 mm, over a millimeter (1; 1.5; 2; 2.5… .5; 6;… etc.). Metal templates "P" figurative, made of stainless steel.
Wedges compensate for deviations in the size of the tile. Even for expensive, “branded” tiles, the sizes in batches sometimes “dance” up to 1.5 mm, and after laying several rows, distortions become noticeable.
Surface marking before tiling
1. The task of marking is precisely to determine where to start laying tiles with your own hands and how best to do it so that the result looks attractive.
The main thing in the markup is to ensure that the tiles are positioned in such a way that it:
a) had even seams, both horizontally and vertically;
b) looked symmetrical;
v) did not have noticeable "cut" edges.
We have already written how to mark the floor, now we will touch the walls. Their markup is more convenient, but it has its own subtleties.
2. We start by drawing a horizon line on the walls to be faced. We carry out the work using a bubble or hydro level, or another device for constructing horizontal lines. We take the distance from the line to the floor for reasons of convenience; if necessary, it can be moved to the desired place using a level and a tape measure (see Fig. 1).
Having measured the distance between the corners of the room along this line, dividing the resulting size by the width of the tile with a seam, we get the required number of tiles. For example, the distance is 2530 mm. Tile width 200 mm, joint 3 mm. 2530: 203 = 12.46. Approximately 12 tiles and a piece 93 mm wide (203 x 0.46 = 93.38).
Where to "stick" this cut? There are two options, either to the corner (figuring out where it will be less noticeable after installing the equipment). Alternatively, lay strips 93/2 = 46 mm wide. on each side (see fig. 1).
Let's say right away that such a step makes sense if a symmetrical pattern is laid out on the wall. In this case, it is better to start laying tiles from the center of the wall, in one direction, and then in the other direction.
Of course, if an insert of less than a third of the width of the tile or even less is required, it is obviously not worth laying narrow strips for symmetry. It is difficult to cut them, and they will not look. And the consumption of tiles will increase.
3. Now let's see how to lay tiles with our own hands from the point of view of the beginning and direction of movement in the process of work. If the whole room is to be tiled, it is better to start from the least noticeable angle, since you will have to finish on it, and deviations in the course of work tend to accumulate.
Most people find it more convenient to lay tiles from left to right, but if you are left-handed, it may be more convenient for you the other way around. Having started laying, it is better to continue to move in this direction, especially if installation is not provided corner profiles... In this case, the cut edge of the last tile on the wall is closed with the first tile of the perpendicular wall, except for the last seam (it is the first, if we veneer the entire perimeter, see Fig. 2).
4. The vertical layout will also depend on design features other components of the decoration of the room, laying on top of the cladding. For example, if there is a false ceiling covering the top of the tiles, we carry out the cladding from the floor to the very top, trimming the last tiles in place.
When laying tiles not to the full height of the wall, divide this distance by the height of the tile plus the thickness of the seam. For example, cladding 1650 mm, tile height 300 mm, joint 2 mm: 1650/302 = 5.46 pcs. The height will be 5 tiles and a piece of 140 mm (302 x 0.46 = 140). Set aside 140 mm from the floor, draw a horizontal line. From it we will lay the tiles (see Fig. 2).
How to lay tiles with your own hands
Compared to marking, the installation itself is technologically simple.
On the leveled surface with an ordinary spatula 12-15 cm wide, or with a trowel, we apply an adhesive composition, which is then distributed with a comb-type spatula, forming in the form of a series of parallel beads of glue.
The height of the trowel teeth (and hence the height of the roller) depends on the dimensions of the tiles and the accuracy of the surface. Usually, for tiles measuring 300x200 mm, use a 6 mm comb. The width of the comb is not less than the width of the tiles.
We apply glue for laying several tiles at once. Until your experience is great, limit yourself to 2-3 pieces, gradually increasing the area. After laying the tiles and attaching it with a soft rubber hammer (or just with a fist), we expose the seams with distance templates. Having laid several rows, we check them with a level, if necessary, correct them with wedges.
We lay the masonry in rows, from corner to corner of the wall (or from the center to the corners if symmetry is required, see above). Having laid the tiles on one wall, we move on to the next.
When applying the glue, pay attention that the direction of the glue beads formed by the trowel comb allows free air outflow from under the tile (see Fig. 3).
Today it is difficult to find a bathroom that does not have ceramic tiles. This method is convenient in all respects - it is created reliable protection rooms in high humidity conditions and provides an aesthetically pleasing appearance. But at the same time, the quality of the material and the level of finishing work are important.
How to properly lay the tiles in the bathroom, you will learn from this article.
Features of ceramic tile cladding
This material is the most versatile, it can be used both for wall decoration and for flooring... The advantages of the tiles are as follows:
- excellent moisture resistance - the ability to use in rooms with high humidity;
- increased strength;
- durability in operation - at the right technology laying the cladding will last for more than a dozen years;
- ease of cleaning with the ability to use a variety of detergents;
- a variety of choices in shape, size and color.
A significant disadvantage of this finishing method is the high degree of labor intensity of work and their cost.
However, there is an opportunity to save on finishing if you do all the work yourself, guided by competent instructions.
How can the tiles be laid
The consumption of materials depends on the chosen design of the bathroom, its shape and area. It is advisable to calculate the entire finish area and increase the amount of material by 5-7%. The qualification of the contractor and the chosen method of carrying out the work also affect the final result.
There are several styling options!
Direct is the simplest approach. Here it is required to lay horizontally or vertically in a row. The seams of each subsequent row must clearly match the seams of the previous one. This method is most suitable for rectangular rooms; it is easy for a novice master to handle it.
Diagonal - its use is advisable if you have chosen a square tile and lay it diagonally. This method allows you to visually smooth out irregularities, but requires more skill in execution.
Checkerboard - Used in square bathrooms and requires two colors of tiles to be installed in a checkerboard pattern.
Offset. You must purchase rectangular tiles with a aspect ratio of 2 to 1. Laying is done by shifting each subsequent row to the side relative to the previous one.
Mosaic installation of small individual ceramic elements.
Laying work planning
If you are a rather responsible person, then you will not be hurt by the image of the plan with the drawing on it, which you want to get in real execution. Such a plan will help you clearly imagine the feasibility of laying decorative elements, determine the center of the walls and ceiling, plan the installation in compliance with symmetry and exclude gaps, irregularities.
It is also advisable to prepare the necessary tools and material. You will need:
- glue mixture in the required amount;
- water to dissolve the mixture;
- grout for filling joints.
From the tools you need to prepare:
- a container for diluting the solution and a drill with a mixer;
- a spatula for laying the mixture on the surface;
- grinder, tile cutter, tongs and corundum block for cutting and processing tiles;
- level and crosses made of plastic to control the position of the tile.
Surface preparation
Tiles are laid on a leveled and cleaned surface, which will improve the quality of fastening and durability of operation. Therefore, at the initial stage, you need to completely remove the old finish. Then the surface is cleaned of fine debris, dirt and dust.
Checking how level the wall and floor are in the vertical and horizontal plane accordingly, it is done using a level. If necessary, it is advisable to plaster the surface to give it a greater leveling.
After the plastered surface has dried, it should be primed with a deep penetration antifungal primer. After that, you can start performing the main finishing work.
Ceramic tile laying procedure
If you do not have much experience in finishing work, then you need to start with finishing those places that can be subsequently covered with interior items. Laying is done from bottom to top.
Even if you have clearly calculated the number of tiles in a row, it is necessary to attach the first row to the wall without any adhesive. This will give you an idea of the actual placement and gap formation at the end of the row.
If the gap is less than 2.5 cm, then the row needs to be shifted slightly. If it is larger and does not allow you to place a solid tile, then you will have to saw and install only a part. It is recommended to place the cut tiles at the very beginning of the row.
Do not allow the tile joints to overlap with the joints on the base plates. Use a pencil or chalk to mark the placement of the first and last tiles in the row. The level will allow you to outline the line along which the tiled row will be placed.
The application of the adhesive mass to the wall is carried out in stages as the work is carried out. It is necessary to mark an area of four tile sizes in height.
Glue is placed on the surface within the marked area, for which a notched trowel is used. The mixture is taken from the container and evenly applied to the wall or floor in an even layer. When preparing the adhesive solution, the consistency must be observed - it must not be too liquid or thick.
The tile is pressed against the surface with the adhesive applied. The excess solution will be mechanically squeezed out of its edges.
Excess glue must be quickly removed before it hardens. If dry areas appear, they can be removed with a plastic or wood spatula.
After secure fixation, the position of the tile is checked with a level. If there is a vertical or horizontal deviation, these violations must be promptly and carefully eliminated, avoiding displacement.
In order for the seams to be even, special plastic crosses are used.
When finishing areas with pipe outlets, windows or other elements that do not allow for a uniform laying of tiles, it is cut off with a grinder or tile cutter. And with tongs for breaking ceramics, shape is given.
Features of grouting
At the final stage of finishing, when the glue has dried, crosses are removed from the seams and filled with grout. A rubber float is used to apply the trowel mixture.
If this tool is driven in a diagonal direction, the mixture enters the gaps, thereby forming the required hermetically sealed layer. If excess dried grout remains on the tile, you can remove it with a moistened sponge.
The tiles in the bathroom provide not only a moisture-resistant protective finishing layer, but can also give the room an original look.
We lay the tiles on the wall. This process requires your maximum attention and neatness, otherwise the tile, which ideally should look beautiful and organic on the wall, will go at random and the work you have done will go down the drain.
So, you have already chosen the tiles, decided in which room you will lay them, let's go further ...
Materials and tools
Before we begin to deal with the question “how to lay tiles on the wall”, let's decide on the materials and tools necessary to ensure that the tiles are laid as professionally and efficiently as possible, even if you are going to lay the tiles with your own hands.
For laying tiles, we need first of all:
- - tile adhesive,;
- a bucket in order to dissolve this glue;
- special notched trowel;
- building level - ,
- ruler,
You can try laying tiles and not on flat wall, but in this case, no one can guarantee that everything will work out for you and the tile will look beautiful. Experienced craftsmen it is still advised to level the wall before laying.
Many people also advise to soak the tiles in water for a couple of hours before laying, which provides the best adhesion to the substrate. I do not know if this is so, I have not tested it. I do not soak the tiles and the result is quite good. I know for sure: it won't get any worse.
There are three types of tile laying methods: "seam in seam", "in bandage" and diagonally. In the first case, tiles are simply laid out one after another horizontally and vertically. When laying the tiles "in a bandage", each higher row is shifted horizontally by half of the tile so that its middle is exactly above the seam separating the ceramic tiles of the lower row.
The method of diagonally laying ceramic tiles is the most difficult and time-consuming, you will have to cut a lot. But it looks the most original.
Preparing the base for laying
Directly the laying process
How to cut tiles?
When we reach the other end of the wall from the corner, it is likely that we will have to cut the tiles. How to cut?
You can use a simple glass cutter. We draw them several times along the line, which must first be marked with a pencil. Then, laying on a table or any flat surface along the edge of the cut, hit the side that is in the air with your palm.
This method is not very effective, as it is often difficult to break the tile or if it is thick or it breaks not along the cut.
In order to cut the tiles, I use a special tool - a tile cutter.
It's pretty easy to use. Again, you need to mark the cut line with a pencil and, putting the tile in the tile cutter, draw it along the line from bottom to top, and then press the bar at the top and that's it. The tile cutter can be purchased at any hardware store... Its price is from 1000 rubles.
A grinder is also useful for cutting tiles. This is if you need not just cut the tile in half, but cut out the shape of, for example, a switch.
- Firstly, always cut with a tolerance of a couple of mm, since the switch and the same socket are collapsible and you then attach the top cover directly to the tile, which looks much better than if you have a gap between the socket and the tile.
Well, and secondly, choose a special circle for the tile for the grinder. Not everyone will fit. No grinder, borrow from a neighbor or friend. Further, if you want to drill holes in the tile, suppose for the wires, use a drill, just pick up the drill again under the tile.
If you need to cut the edge of a tile half a centimeter wide, that is, small in size, then draw a line with a glass cutter and break off the edge using pliers or pliers.
So, the first row is ready. At the end of the wall, also hide it in a special corner, especially if you had to cut tiles.
And so, sequentially, one after another, lay out the rows of tiles on the wall one after another vertically.
The main thing is not to forget to insert crosses between the tiles and check whether they are on the same line with each other, otherwise, after grouting the joints, the masonry will look ugly.
You can also check the evenness of the tiles by placing a flat plank or level across the entire row and see if there are any gaps.
That's all the wisdom. After the masonry is dry (about a day), you can remove your guides, which held the base of the masonry. The tile will not slide down.
We rub the seams
You can also, by removing all the crosses that you inserted between the tiles, start grouting.
To do this, we take a special grout to match the color of the tile, dilute it with water until a homogeneous mass (not liquid and not very thick) and rub it evenly and tightly into the seams with a rubber spatula.
Then you can wipe the tiles with a damp (not wet) sponge.
Wait a few minutes and after the grout dries a little, take a piece of wire or cable a little wider than the distance between the tiles and rub it with pressure along all the gaps. The grout will press in and flatten out, which will look much prettier.
And finally, a video from Alexander Tarasov. Everything is accessible and understandable ...
He seems to have told everything. If I forgot something, it is not so important that I mention it here. Good luck.
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