Siding is a dry type exterior finishing and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not put a significant load on the foundation, which is why such cladding is also used on old wooden houses.
The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple care, excellent protective properties and a wide selection of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that it gives modern look Even an old house can be refurbished with your own hands, saving significantly on the services of builders.
Tools and materials
Before covering your house with siding, you should check the availability the following tools:
- or a fine-toothed saw, metal scissors,
- screwdriver and screwdriver,
- hammer,
- tape measure, square and level (a laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
- a stepladder that is high enough to reach the roof of the house.
Siding manufacturers offer a full range of elements and panels for covering a house, even with a complex configuration. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate required amount of certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.
Knowing some points will help you control or check the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:
- External corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using entire elements for each external corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when joining. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
- Internal angles are calculated using the same principle. If the roof eaves are finished with siding, they are also used in the areas where they connect to the wall. internal corners. In cases where the finishing of the cornice was done earlier or will not be done at all, use a finishing strip.
- To finish the cornice, elements such as soffits and wind boards are used.
- The required length of the starting strip is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
- In areas connecting extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
- The perimeter of the windows is covered with a window strip; it must be taken with a reserve so that the joining points are not visible. Also, to frame the windows, flashings are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
- A drain strip or ebb sills are installed around the perimeter of the base if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
- If the length of the house wall is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think about the location of its installation so that the proportions of the building are maintained.
- The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated using the formula: “((area of all walls of the house – area of windows and doors)/panel area)*1.10”. A reserve of 10% is needed to cover scraps and waste.
- For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. Approximately 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a reserve. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, which will definitely not leave rusty stains after a few years.
Preparatory work
Before covering with siding it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Seal or foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of an old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics; walls made of foam concrete can be treated with a deep penetration primer.
Installation of sheathing
The first step is to install a sheathing made of metal profiles or wooden slats, since it is strictly forbidden to attach the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to wood or frame house, you can use 60*40 mm slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.
Using a tape measure and level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. Subsequently, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.
Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to ensure that they fit tightly to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm; in those places where the siding will bear additional load, for example, street lamps, as well as near corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. The vertical guides should not be connected by anything so that there are no obstacles to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to the appearance of mold.
Waterproofing and insulation
For wooden aerated concrete walls installation is required, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, preference should be given to a water- and wind-proof membrane. If insulation is not performed, then the film is fixed directly to the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid over it, and then the sheathing is rebuilt to provide a gap for ventilation.
Fastening the guide elements
Installation begins by installing the drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. It is a rigid structure and is easier to keep level than a flexible starter bar. Then a series of corner profiles. They must be firmly secured with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.
If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be laid overlapping the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. Then, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached to the top of the drainage system. It should be 5 mm above the bottom edge of the corner profile.
Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer bottom edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be filed at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped, placing the top planks on the side ones.
When installing H-profiles vertically in pre-designated locations, a level is used. As when installing other vertical elements, you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the cornice and base so that the planks do not bend when expanding. A finishing strip is installed under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends.
Installation of panels
When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below; at the top, the panel is secured with self-tapping screws in the center of oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. You should not pull the panel up and fasten it rigidly; it should move slightly to the sides. The top row of siding ends with a finishing strip.
What should you consider?
Rule #1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be firmly secured. The material from which they are made contracts when cold and expands when heated, length fluctuations can reach 1%. This is what causes the elongated shape of the mounting holes. The fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the head. If this rule is violated, the siding may simply burst under extreme heat.
Rule #2. There should be a gap of about 10mm between the planks and the guides (less when installing in hot weather), so that the siding does not bend when it expands. When covering a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.
Rule #3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but please note that at temperatures below -10 degrees, elements may crack when cut, so you should be careful and use an angle grinder.
With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update your house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.
I would not like to start the article with banal phrases like: the facade is the face of the house and the like. Everyone already knows this, but when faced with the need for finishing, many questions immediately arise, the first of which, of course, is what material to use.
In this article we will talk about how to lay siding with your own hands, and what you can save on without compromising quality.
What is siding
Speaking in the scientific language of builders, siding is a hinged ventilated facade system. A distinctive feature of all is their installation at a distance from the facade itself. Thanks to this technology, there is always an air gap under the coating, which does not allow condensation to accumulate on the surface.
As a result, if properly treated with antiseptics, mold and harmful fungus will never appear on the walls, which often cause a lot of problems for homeowners. But since our article is not devoted to the material itself, but to the question of how to properly lay siding, we will simply briefly list the advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages over other types of facade finishing
So:
- Covering a house with siding is a very simple process that does not require specific skills and knowledge. Installation can be done easily with your own hands.
- Modern manufacturers produce a whole the lineup siding panels. Today, these are not just horizontal lines, but also imitations of various natural materials.
- The light weight of the entire siding does not require additional reinforcement of the walls and does not create a significant load on them.
- External siding is installed in the shortest possible time and without the involvement of specialists. In principle, all the work can be carried out by one person, and, in extreme cases, the help of one assistant will be needed.
- A facade covered with siding is very easy to care for. He is not at all afraid of water and even strong detergents.
- Thanks to the air gap between the siding and the wall, you can use any type of insulation (see).
- If the facade is damaged, one panel can be replaced, and the rest of the siding will remain intact.
- The final price of the entire siding finish is significantly lower than most popular types of finishes.
Before choosing siding in a store, you need to carefully study the entire assortment presented in stores. This will not be an easy task, so we will present a short video in this article, which shows several options for the appearance of siding.
Disadvantages of siding
So:
- The light weight of siding often becomes a disadvantage, since strong winds can simply tear it out of its fastenings.
- Siding is quite easily damaged mechanically; any blow from a hard or sharp object can not only leave a scratch on the panel, but even break it.
- If you don’t take spare segments when purchasing siding, then later, if necessary, replace the damaged area; you simply won’t be able to find the same color or shape.
- Siding, like any plastic product, has, albeit insignificant, thermal deformation. That is, at high temperatures in summer, the panels expand. This fact must be taken into account during installation.
Important! When purchasing siding, always purchase 5 to 10 percent more panels than may be needed. This is necessary to cover the defects that often occur during self-installation, and a part should be left in reserve in case you have to change an accidentally damaged area of the finish.
Installation
The axiom of all builders and finishers says: always start repairs by preparing materials and tools, so as not to waste time searching for the right screwdriver or nail.
Our instructions will not violate the postulates, so below is a list of tools that we will need:
- Pencil and tape measure.
- Construction knife with a set of additional blades.
- Electric jigsaw or, as a last resort, a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- Self-tapping screws or nails, depending on what it was decided to make the sheathing from.
- Hammer or screwdriver, again, depending on the material of the sheathing.
- Building level. Of course, ideally, if you have a laser device, which will greatly simplify and speed up the process. But if you don’t have one, then a water level with vertical and horizontal eyes will do.
- Hammer with drill, with a diameter corresponding to the purchased mounting dowels.
Additionally, you may need painting supplies such as a roller and brushes, but this is only if you chose wood to make the sheathing. This material itself is very malleable to high humidity, and besides, bugs love to burrow into it and eat it from the inside.
Therefore, to extend the service life of wooden sheathing and improve its quality characteristics, each block must be treated with special impregnations or a deep penetration primer.
Interestingly, many professionals do not advise using wood, since a galvanized profile is much more practical in this regard (see). That is why our siding installation instructions will describe metal guides, not wooden ones.
Marking
This stage requires a particularly careful and thoughtful approach, since the quality of the entire finish will depend on it. The fact is that if at the very bottom of the facade you allow a slight distortion of just a few millimeters, then when you reach the top panel, it will be already several centimeters, which is naturally unacceptable.
Therefore, we arm ourselves with a pencil, a tape measure, a level and patience, and go ahead. First of all, it is necessary to calculate the so-called “dead point”. This is the lowest mark from the base, from which all further markings will go.
Having found this point, we draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the house. It is this line that will serve as our starting point.
Advice! In order not to have to worry about attaching the first panel, you can fix it around the perimeter of the house wooden block, which will be the support on the horizontal line. You can simply lay the siding on this block and securely fasten it without fear that it will become distorted somewhere.
Now that we have the zero mark ready, we need to find the points from which the vertical guides will go. The distance between them should be at least 20 and no more than 50 centimeters.
The easiest way to do this is to divide the wall exactly in half. Then each segment is cut in half again, and so on until the distance between the nearest points becomes optimal.
From the obtained points we carry out strict vertical lines, focusing on the building level. It is along these lines that the guide profiles will pass.
Now all that remains is to mark the points for installing guy wires for the profile. The ideal distance between fasteners is 50 centimeters, so we simply put dots through this distance on each line, and our marking is ready, we can move on to the next stage.
Lathing
Covering a house with siding is always carried out on a pre-prepared sheathing, although in some cases it can be abandoned.
For example, if your house is built from aerated concrete blocks, and there are several reasons for this:
- Aerated concrete has increased moisture permeability. Therefore, it can function normally without an additional air gap.
- Aerated concrete blocks are very soft, and ordinary carpenter's nails are easily hammered into them, so there will be no difficulties in attaching the siding directly to the wall.
- In the southern latitudes of our country, houses made of aerated concrete are not insulated at all. The heat capacity of the block itself is sufficient, so there is no need to leave space for tile insulation.
But in all other cases you will have to make a sheathing. In fact, there is nothing complicated here, we just pick up a puncher and a hammer and boldly go into battle.
Our wall already has marks for attaching guy wires, so we just drill holes in the marked places. It is important to correctly calculate the diameter of the drill and the depth of the hole. The dowel should be completely immersed in it and tightly press the metal guy.
If the hole is not deep enough, the dowel will hit the bottom and bend. In this case, it will be very difficult to pull it out. When all the guys are installed, bend them perpendicular to the wall and attach profiles to them, not forgetting to check the building level.
Important point on at this stage- this is to install an additional guide under the H-profile, which connects two siding panels along the length. You need to find a place where it will pass, if of course there is a need for it, and install it, just like the rest of the sheathing elements.
Now you need to check the entire structure for strength. It’s enough just to twitch each profile and calculate weak spots. It is advisable to install here additional fastenings. As a result, we should have a sheathing, as shown in the photo at the beginning of this section.
Siding
If all the previous stages went smoothly and efficiently, then installing the siding will not take much time, and by the way, we can say that this is the easiest stage in the entire finishing process. The easiest way to install siding is with simple horizontal lines. Although, if you have some experience, you can lay it in a herringbone pattern or in a running pattern, but this is a topic for a separate article.
We start laying with, which is slightly different in configuration from the other segments. If you followed the advice and attached a wooden beam horizontally, simply place the panel on it and fasten it with self-tapping screws along each guide.
Exactly from launch pad the following segments will go, which are simply attached to it with grooves at the bottom, and at the top also with self-tapping screws to the guides. There is nothing complicated here, but it is important to remember that the fasteners should not press the panel tightly, since the plastic has thermal deformation.
The self-tapping screw does not tighten completely, leaving a small gap, which allows the siding to expand in the horizontal and vertical directions, while the panel itself hangs tightly on the cap, and the wind cannot tear it off.
After attaching the starting panel, we attach the decorative elements. In this case, these are corners and H-profile. In addition, you need to make a frame for windows and doors (see). The panels themselves simply slide inside decorative elements and are attached with self-tapping screws to the guide profiles.
Now all that remains is to simply add strips of siding to the very top. The only difficulty is the last panel at the top, which will have to be cut along its entire length. The finishing panel completes the finishing, now you can step aside and enjoy the work done.
Now, knowing how to install siding correctly, you can safely get to work, and the main thing here is not to rush and do everything thoroughly and efficiently. After all, repairing a facade is a very labor-intensive task in itself, and redoing the defect will be difficult and costly.
It is necessary to choose a material that will provide a high degree of protection of the walls from negative influence environment and will be able to maintain decorative properties throughout its entire service life. That is why many choose siding for finishing not only new buildings, but also for the restoration of erected buildings and objects. A simple “constructor” type assembly technology will allow you to quickly and without extra costs Install the siding yourself - the instructions for dummies describe in detail all stages of the work.
The popularity of siding is difficult to overestimate due to its versatility, accessibility and aesthetics
Finishing buildings with siding panels, compared to other materials, has the following advantages:
- High resistance to negative influences external factors: precipitation, sudden temperature changes, some chemical compounds And ultraviolet radiation. The material retains its strength and decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer.
- The design of the cladding and sheathing has minimal weight, which allows finishing of objects with shallow foundations without additional reinforcement of the supporting structure.
- No need for leveling façade walls thanks to installation on the sheathing. This significantly reduces the work time, and also allows you to lay heat and waterproofing layers in the space between the wall and the siding.
- The cladding does not require any maintenance or care.
- High level of fire safety and resistance to minor mechanical stress.
- The presence of a wide range of decorative colors will allow you to easily select the necessary one and make it unique design at home, without spending money on purchasing and painting desired color. Moreover, unique textured images with imitation are also available natural materials, characterized by a clear and rich pattern.
- A simple installation technology that can be mastered by people who have not previously encountered construction work.
Types of additional components
In order to simplify the installation of façade cladding, many additional components are produced that are designed to ensure a tight fit to various elements of the house and installation of surfaces complex shapes, as well as reliable engagement with the main wall. The components are designed to ensure rigidity and stability of the structure, as well as prevent the formation of moisture on inside material.
Important information! The material of the components must match the siding in order to ensure uniform thermal characteristics and prevent deformation due to differences in thermal expansion coefficients. Therefore, it is recommended to use only original additional and fastening elements.
List of additional components:
- The starting and finishing strip allows you to avoid distortions and other installation errors, as well as improve the decorative properties of the finish.
- Corner elements. Designed to decorate the corners of a building and hide the sheathing. Protects from dust and moisture ingress inner surface panels.
- Window and door frames are intended for finishing the junctions of the corresponding openings. J-profiles can also be used for these purposes, but they have worse aesthetic properties.
- Window and door profiles are used for finishing and protecting slopes from the external environment. Due to their use, slopes look natural and aesthetically pleasing.
- J-profile. Used for fastening row panels to the side. It has versatility, so it is also used instead of platbands, finishing and corner profiles, even though there are specialized elements.
- J-chamfer. A special element designed to be installed as a cornice. It is a specialized replacement for the J-profile when installing an abutment to the roof.
- Low tides. They are used to remove moisture from the roof, as well as to decorate windows and doorways.
- Ceiling soffits. Designed for finishing ceilings of open structures: terraces, summer kitchens, etc. They can be made solid or perforated. They perform not only decorative functions, but also provide ventilation of the space between the wall and the siding along the sheathing, and also protect internal structures from pests.
- Moldings. Serve to connect horizontal and vertical planes of panels.
- H-profile. Used to extend panels lengthwise.
Siding installation price per m 2 for work
Siding of objects with the involvement of professional construction teams will be carried out with high quality and in the shortest possible time. In this case, it is not necessary to order a full range of work, but only individual services are sufficient.
The cost of work will depend on the following factors:
- The number of window and door openings, the covering of which requires a significant investment of time and the use of special additional elements.
- Wall areas.
- Difficulty of work. IN this concept includes the presence of walls with complex plane transitions, the need to install insulating layers, the type of wall material and other factors.
- Type of material selected.
In each case, the calculation will be performed by a specialist from the selected company. The table below shows the prices for siding installation, price per m2 for work.
Approximate cost of basic and auxiliary work during siding installation for Moscow| Facade works | Unit change | price, rub. |
|---|---|---|
| Installation vinyl siding on the walls | m2 | 250 |
| Installation of vinyl siding on roofing | m2 | 300 |
| Installation of fiber cement siding | m2 | 680 |
| Installation of hydro-vapor barrier film | m2 | 60 |
| Installation of wooden lathing on wood | m2 | 100 |
| Installation of wooden sheathing on brick or concrete | m2 | 200 |
| Installation of 50 mm insulation | m2 | 90 |
| Installation of 100 mm insulation | m2 | 170 |
| Fire-bio processing of timber | linear meters | 14 |
| Fire-bio treatment of wooden surfaces | m2 | 80 |
| Fire-bio treatment of boards | linear meters | 19 |
| Installation of metal drips | linear meters | 100 |
| Installation of ventilation grilles | PC. | 140 |
Preparatory work
Before carrying out installation work on the façade cladding, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory works. They include the following stages: choosing the type of panels and sheathing, calculating materials and additional elements, as well as determining the number of thermal and waterproofing layers.
Selecting the type of panels
The choice of material for cladding largely determines the service life of the entire structure, strength and performance characteristics. Currently the choice is limited to the following options:
- Wood. Is different high level thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and excellent decorative qualities. Its cost is minimal compared to other types of siding. However, it has short term service (up to 8 years) and requires periodic maintenance (treatment with antiseptics and painting).
- Metal. It is strong and durable, resistant to mold, mildew and pests, and can withstand significant temperature changes. It is very sensitive to damage, since even a small scratch on the protective layer can lead to the onset of corrosion processes.
- Vinyl. It is the most profitable option, as it is free from all the disadvantages of wood and metal siding. It has minimal weight, is resistant to any precipitation, is environmentally friendly, and has a maximum service life of up to 50 years. It is distinguished by the presence of a wide range of colors. With such advantages, the cost of this material is relatively low, which is why experts recommend choosing it. A video of installing vinyl siding with your own hands will allow you to appreciate all the advantages of this material.
Calculation of the quantity of materials
The amount of material can be calculated quite simply if you have a building design in hand. Otherwise, you will have to measure the length and width of each wall, as well as window and door openings. Based on the data obtained, a sketch or drawing should be made. After this, the amount of material that will be used to create the sheathing is determined, taking into account the uniform arrangement of vertical or horizontal guides with an interval of 40-50 cm and fastenings along the guides with the same interval.
Helpful information! You can use a building design for calculations only if it was erected no later than 2-3 years. This is due to possible appearance defects on the walls (for example, cracks caused by subsidence of the foundation), which, after elimination, can cause the walls to widen by several centimeters. When installing the cladding of the facade of a building, this is critical because you will have to find a way out of the situation already during the installation process.
After calculating the amount of materials for the sheathing, you need to calculate the number of panels. This can be done quite simply by dividing the total area of the walls, minus the area of the openings, by the dimensions of one panel. It is recommended to add a margin of approximately 10-15% to the obtained value, which will take into account possible damage during delivery or installation.
Calculator for calculating the quantity and cost of siding per house
Today, siding is increasingly being used for cladding buildings. Exterior design The structure of this material makes it possible to ultimately obtain a light, durable, beautiful and inexpensive coating that will reliably protect it from the influence of many environmental factors. Range color range, textures and shapes of siding are wide, which makes it possible to create an individual home design.
Tools used
When installing vinyl siding, you should prepare:
1. Tools:
- Bulgarian. Necessary for cutting panels.
- Hacksaw(scissors). It will be necessary when pruning small size elements to correct minor defects made when cutting material with a grinder.
- Screwdriver with several nozzles.
- Hammer– for fastening the sheathing to the facade of the building.
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Level.
2. Fastening material. When fastening the material, you must use self-tapping screws (nails) made of aluminum or galvanized. The length of the nails must exceed 4 cm, and the length of the screws - more than 1.5 cm, with a diameter of their heads of more than 0.9 mm.
When attaching 100 m2 of siding, one thousand screws or nails will be required. Many experts recommend using press washers when fastening, since they better fix the panels to any frame and do not corrode.
Sheathing design and siding fasteners
performed on a wooden or metal sheathing. If you plan to mount it on a wooden sheathing, then the wood must be thoroughly dried. Otherwise, the panel locks may become pinched and free movement will not occur. Also, many panels can jump out of the locks and their parallelism will be disrupted. For metal sheathing a regular metal profile is used.
Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws (if the sheathing is made of metal), nails (staples) to the wooden sheathing. Nails should go into the wooden sheathing to a depth of 3.5 cm, and staples - to a depth of 20 mm. Nails driven in at an angle will prevent the panels from moving. Each fastener should be centered in the fastening hole. It is not recommended to press the caps tightly to the surface of the material; a small (1-1.5 mm) gap should be left. Driving fasteners through the panel is prohibited.
The pitch of any type of lathing with horizontal fastening is 45-50cm, and with vertical fastening of the material the pitch is 30-35cm.
Additionally, you can make or expand existing mounting holes using a hammer drill. If you need to adhere to the rule: the beginning of fastening the horizontal panel is done from the middle, and the vertical one - from the top.
Providing temperature gaps
This operation is carried out regardless of what material the walls of the building are made of. The gap is made for:
- creation of airspace, preventing the appearance of mold or mildew on the walls;
- leveling the mounting surface, since walls rarely have a perfectly flat surface.
The material should not rest against the profiles, so its cutting is carried out taking into account the temperature gap. It will be double if the panel is mounted from one corner to another or from the joining strip to the corner. The gap size is calculated based on the average outside temperature and panel length. Siding cannot be installed at temperatures below 10C, as it becomes brittle. The panels tend to elongate by 0.5mm for every 10C increase in temperature.
The size of the temperature gap is mandatory indicated by each manufacturer, depending on the basic composition of the material. In the instructions, each manufacturer indicates the size of the gap for all components of the structure and the amount of overlap of the joint.
The size of the material overflow is always 2.5 cm. The seam is never sealed. The intersection of the material is done end-to-end. There is no overlap under or above the windows. When joining the material, overlaps should not be noticeable and the same rules apply as when gluing wallpaper. When installing gutters and accessories on the façade of a building, the presence of gaps is also mandatory.
Particular attention should be paid to the installation of the first siding panel so that the installation defect cannot be repeated in the remaining rows.
Setting the starting profile and ebb
It is necessary to install the starting profile, since it is responsible for the reliability and rigidity of the finish. The lathing cannot create rigidity, since its rows run parallel to each other. When two strips are joined in stripes, a figure with right angles is formed. To add rigidity, you can use a metal profile. If rigidity is absent and done incorrectly, installation defects will appear: panels and lock clamps will warp and cracks will form.
The starting profile is mounted along the entire perimeter of the building at the very bottom of the horizontal beam. When installing it, the evenness of the fastening is checked with a level. In further work, this profile will be covered with the first row of siding. You can use not the whole profile, but its pieces. Then you will need to make a 5mm gap between its parts.
The starting profile is mounted where the material approaches the door and windows.
Low tide – This is a vinyl corner profile. The installation of the ebb tide begins with its attachment to the corners.
The technology for its installation includes processing of corners, and for this:
- a piece about 50 cm long is cut from the ebb strip;
- an element for the external and internal corners is formed from it;
- joints in corners do not require sealing with silicone;
- the upper part of the edge is aligned horizontally;
- The joining of the ebb strips is done with an overlap.
Under the installed ebb, a rigid rail is mounted along the entire length of the base.
Base covering
If the base in the building sinks or is flush with the wall, then installation begins with fastening the starting strip. If the base is protruding, then an ebb is attached under the starting profile to drain water.
The process of attaching the material to the base is carried out from bottom to top. When sheathing the base you must remember:
- basement siding is selected, like wall siding, from the same manufacturer;
- sheathing is carried out only horizontally before finishing the walls;
- the basement is not insulated;
- when sheathing, it is necessary to accurately calculate the coating consumption, because there is often an overconsumption of material when performing this operation;
- The panels are connected to each other by locks (top and bottom).
Basement siding does not end with the usual J-profile or finish, but with a special base border. It will also be the starting profile for the wall material.
Fastening of facade parts
When forming corners, corner panels are used. They are fastened in such a way that there is overhang on the fasteners. The fastener pitch is 25mm. If necessary, the corner panels are overlapped to prevent water from getting into the joint. Their installation is carried out upon completion of the device starting profile, only before installing the main panels.
When hemming roof overhangs or gables, soffits are used. They are attached before the last row of siding panels is installed. If the roof overhang is more than 60cm, then it needs to be sheathed. The soffits are attached to the sheathing. If the plumb line is smaller, then frame strips are required. The soffits are fastened every 30cm.
The work on edging the doors and windows is done after fixing the corners. The following profiles are used for finishing window openings:
- strip near the window;
- platband - plank;
- hanging bar.
Based on the rules for installing plastic windows, they are mounted to a depth equal to a third of the thickness of the entire wall. For shallow slopes, an angular profile is used. Use near the window strip is assumed with a slope depth of no more than 170 mm. If there are deep slopes, and about window profile cannot close it, then a hinged bar is attached.
This slope is made as a wall using the starting profile. The slopes are fastened with a finishing profile, a profile with a foam or glue lock. The window sill is installed on the foam. When fastening the panel with foam, the panels are secured with special spacers until it completely hardens.
A J profile is used to frame the window opening. A horizontal panel is inserted into it, used as a platband.
Vinyl siding trim
After completing the fastening of the profiles, installation of the siding begins. The process is performed in a specific order:
1. The bottom panel is mounted along the entire length of the wall. If its length is not sufficient, then the connection with the adjacent one is made with an overlap. The amount of overlap should not be less than 3 cm (a more reliable fastening will be obtained using an H-profile pre-attached to the frame).
2. Attaching siding. Their installation is carried out in compliance with certain rules:
- fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out at a distance of 30cm relative to each other;
- screwing in self-tapping screws or driving in nails is performed perpendicular to the wall exactly in the middle of the hole;
- Do not tighten the screws all the way, a 1mm gap should be left;
- It is not recommended to fasten panels to the corner, because there are special strips for decorating corners. The distance from them to the corner of the wall should be about 1 cm.
Having completed the fastening of the first row, all the others are mounted. The next panel is attached parallel to the profile so that the lock can be easily latched. Without allowing them to be pulled, the panel is attached to the sheathing. Correctly performed fastening will allow the panel to move horizontally.
Fastening is carried out in two ways: around the entire circle of the building or finishing along the walls.
3. Sheathing corners. Each of these corners is decorated with special strips.
4. Attaching the finishing strip and the last row of material:
- this strip is attached to the sheathing;
- the distance from this bar is measured to the last attached row;
- siding of the required size is cut with a grinder;
- bending the strip horizontally, It starts up neatly under the bar.
By adhering to this sequence of work and observing the main features of its implementation, attaching the siding is simple. The result of finishing a building with this material will not disappoint.
DIY vinyl siding installation: final moments
At this stage, the installation of pediments is carried out. The principle of performing all the work is similar to cladding the walls of a building:
- the starting strip is strengthened;
- J-profile is mounted;
- siding strips are attached.
If the length of the material is insufficient, a connecting strip is used. Its location should be considered so that it does not pass through a window or doorway, and also to prevent large trimmings.
Sheathing of gables can be done in any direction. If the pediment differs from the wall, then their cladding is separated from each other by a horizontal H-molding. If the pediment has a protrusion inward, then the finishing of the wall should end with the finish, and the finishing of the pediment should begin with the aquilon and the starting panel.
When carrying out work on fastening siding panels, you must remember:
- this material tends to change its size with temperature fluctuations;
- its required volume in m2 can be determined by measuring the perimeter of the building, multiplying by the height;
How to install vinyl siding?
Curtained or ventilated façade – modern system, often used for exterior decoration of residential and industrial buildings. The cladding here is siding - vinyl, fiber cement, wood and even metal. It is noteworthy that the same installation technology is used for the listed materials. For those wishing to get acquainted with it, we encourage you to study step by step instructions, how to install siding with your own hands on any base - wood, brick, aerated concrete, and so on. By doing the house wall cladding yourself, you will significantly save on the cost of the work.
Preparation for installation
At the initial stage you need to do the following:
- Measure the facades, gables, window and door openings of the building to find out the amount of building materials to purchase.
- Using the installation diagram, count the number of components and add to it at least 10% of the reserve for scraps and waste.
- Purchase materials and fasteners, prepare tools.
Note. We propose to consider the procedure for attaching plastic siding with external wall insulation, since its installation is considered the most difficult. Having mastered the technology, you can easily decorate your house with panels made of metal, wood and fiber cement.
You must understand that installation of siding is always carried out on a frame (otherwise known as lathing) made of wooden beams or metal profiles. But a good facade subsystem made of galvanized elements costs much more than wood, and cheap steel analogues will not last long. Hence the conclusion: if you lack funds, it is better to buy timber than to decorate your house or cottage with thin profiles with low-quality coating.
Scheme for calculating the siding area and the number of profiles
In addition to the sheathing parts, you will need:
- insulation – polystyrene foam or cotton wool on a basalt basis;
- a film that protects the facade from wind and moisture penetration;
- siding panels suitable color with all accompanying strips;
- fastening elements - dowels, short screws and nails, if upholstery is being done on a wooden house.
Advice. Most often, homeowners cover their exterior walls with inexpensive vinyl siding. white. Such finishing material It quickly loses its appearance from street dust, which turns into dirt in the rain. Therefore, it is better to select panels of other, less easily soiled shades.
Now it’s worth understanding the types of elements for installing siding so that you understand where each one needs to be placed and correctly calculate their number:
- the starting and finishing strip is installed at the beginning and end of the row of panels on each wall;
- corner elements serve as cladding for the internal and external corners of the building;
- near-window strip is used to frame translucent structures and doorways;
- the ebb is designed to drain water and is placed above the base and under the windows;
- the connecting element is needed for beautiful joining of PVC panels instead of installing them overlapping;
- It is customary to sheathe roof overhangs and other hard-to-reach places with soffits;
- The J-profile is used to form various connections.
The tools you will need are a screwdriver, sharp metal scissors and all sorts of measuring devices - a tape measure, a level and an iron ruler.
Stage one - assembly of the sheathing and insulation
The task of the subsystem or frame is to serve as the basis for attaching thermal insulation and facing material, and also level out all the unevenness of the walls country cottage. Therefore, the installation of lathing is a responsible matter, affecting the appearance and service life of a curtain walled façade covered with siding. Gather wooden frame need in this order:
- Before working with wood, it must be coated with an antiseptic and allowed to dry.
- By pulling the twine parallel to the wall, determine the place where it protrudes the most. Here you need to install the first vertical beam. In a log house, it is necessary to cut down the protruding crosscuts in advance.
- Focusing on the outer plane of this beam, attach the remaining elements of the sheathing in increments of 40 to 60 cm. To maintain one vertical plane, place it under the beams wooden coasters required height.
- When insulating with basalt wool, you need to install 2-3 rows of horizontal lintels between the vertical posts, because over time this material tends to settle and expose part of the structure.
- Lay insulation between the beams and cover the entire façade with windproof film.
Reference. The installation step of the frame elements is taken according to the width of the insulating material (50 or 60 mm), so that there is not a lot of waste left after trimming. If you plan to install siding without thermal insulation, then install the bars at intervals of 40 cm (recommendations from the Deuke brand - a manufacturer of PVC panels).
A few words about how to attach insulation and wind protection. Foam or mineral wool slabs are inserted between the beams of the subsystem and fixed with special construction “fungi” directly to the wall. The film sheets must be laid out horizontally, starting from the bottom, and nailed to the sheathing using strips 3-5 cm thick. So between thermal insulation layer and siding provides ventilation.
To collect metal carcass, a similar method is used, only galvanized profiles are mounted on adjustable brackets. Separate staples are used to secure the insulation. In the case when it is necessary to clad the facade with siding vertically, the elements of the subsystem are attached to the wall in a horizontal position. More information about installing metal sheathing is shown in the video instructions:
Step two - installation of strips and guides
Before proceeding with the independent installation of wall or basement siding made of PVC, it should be understood important feature: Plastic expands noticeably when exposed to temperatures. It means that vinyl panels and the frame elements elongate when heated. To new cladding the house has not bent or warped; between all ends and hidden connections a gap of 6 mm must be left for expansion.
Note. For the same purpose, self-tapping screws or nails that secure siding parts must not be tightened or driven in until they stop. The installed element should move freely within the oval cutouts where you screw the screws.
We set the starting bar
Installation instructions for siding guides look like this:
- Maintaining a horizontal position, screw in the base ebbs, going around the entire house.
- Mount the starter strips close to the flashings and secure them by nailing them to each frame post.
- Using a building level, align the corner strip vertically and secure it with self-tapping screws. If there is a ceiling (for example, when covering under a canopy or balcony), do not forget to leave a 6 mm gap at the top.
- Using the same technology, install window trims, cutting the edges at 45°. Attach the tides.
- If it is necessary to form plastic slopes, then screw it to window frame J-profile, where the siding panel will then be inserted.
- Install the finishing element at the top of the wall, as shown in the picture.
We attach the finishing profile
Advice. It happens that the length of some shaped strip is not enough. Then the continuation of the corner profile is overlapped by 2.5 cm, and the start and finish strips are butted with a technological indent of 6 mm.
Installing a corner element
Two words about how to attach corner profiles. First, 2 screws are screwed in from above so that the part hangs on them, and at other points (40 cm interval) the screws are screwed in the middle of the oval cutouts.
As you understand, the instructions for horizontal installation of vinyl siding are presented above. To mount the panels vertically, the same technology is used, only the corner profile serves as the starting strip, and the ends are finished with J-straps or elements in the form ceiling plinth. The cladding of the base is done in a similar way, only a different, more durable cladding material is used (available in the form of PVC sheets). The process is described in great detail in a training video from the Deke company:
The third stage - siding
Do-it-yourself finishing of the house with siding is the last and easiest stage of the work. The algorithm of actions is as follows:
- Cut the panels to fit the dimensions of the façade, allowing for a 6mm gap on each side.
- Insert the first sheet of siding into the grooves of the corner profiles, while simultaneously inserting it into the lock of the starting strip. Adjust the position of the panel so that there are gaps on both sides (they are not visible behind the corner trim).
- Screw the siding strip to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or nails. Place the screws in the center of the oval holes.
- Install the remaining panels in the same way.
- When you get to the top, the last panel will probably be too wide. Cut it along its entire length and put it in place.
Advice. If the strips are not long enough (and they are sold at 6 m in the market and in stores), do not overlap them; such a connection looks ugly. Divide the wall into 2 or 3 parts and install connecting profiles, which will also serve as decorative elements.
When fastening, the screw is placed in the middle of the hole
It is customary to install soffits under roof overhangs - flat panels that are installed in guides without fastening to the frame. The same corner profiles, starting strip and J-bar are used here. The listed elements are attached depending on the overhang configuration, and then the cut soffits are inserted into their grooves, as shown in the diagram.
The installation of siding on a wooden sheathing is clearly shown in the next video:
Conclusion
There are 2 difficult moments in the installation procedure - leveling the frame and fastening the shaped elements of the siding; here it is allowed larger number errors. Hence the advice: when studying the instructions and video materials, focus on these operations and take your time when performing them; if necessary, print out the diagrams. After successful assembly, the cladding should be washed washing powder, dissolved in water.
Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.