The soil. Priming

The soil has the properties of fertility, i.e. the ability to provide plants with the necessary nutrients, water and everything necessary for their normal existence and development. The most fertile is the soil rich (or specially enriched) in nutrients, well permeable to water and air, and having the ability to absorb and store the necessary supply of water. The latter largely depends on its mechanical composition. The soil is not only a source of nutrients for the plant, but also a substrate. The concept of "substrate" comes from the Latin substratum - base, soil, nutrient medium. The substrate is considered good if it contains enough mineral and organic substances, has air and water permeability, thermal conductivity, it must also be optimally moisture-absorbing so that the substances dissolved in water are not used immediately, but gradually. Soil fertility in nature is largely determined by the content of humus (humus) in it - a complex of complex dark-colored organic compounds, the most important of which are humic acids. Humus accumulates during the decomposition of plant residues, and during the activity of soil microorganisms it is mineralized and its constituent elements become available to plants.

The soil is a very special natural formation, a complex system, which includes both living (microorganisms) and non-living components (various organic and mineral chemical substances). A significant part of the plant - the root - is entirely underground. It is he who sucks out the substances necessary for the plant from the soil, but can only do this in conditions that are comfortable for him (for different plants they are somewhat different): at a certain humidity, acidity, and even mechanical composition.

Some soil properties

In order to better understand how and why you can influence the properties of the soil, you need to know what properties it has.

A very significant difference between greenhouse plants and plants open ground is that the soil in which they grow is not a natural part of the earth's surface (that is, not a natural self-regulating system), and many normal processes here have to be controlled consciously.

Methods for influencing soils are constantly being improved.

According to the mechanical composition, the soils are divided into clay, loamy, sandy loam, sandy and cartilaginous (rubbly).

To understand what kind of soil, you need to try to grind a pinch of soil between your fingers, and then try to roll it into a cord or ball.

If, when rubbing, a fine homogeneous powder is obtained, and when rolling, a long cord and a smooth ball are obtained, then the soil is clayey.

If the powder, when rubbed, does not turn out to be completely homogeneous, the ball will turn out to be covered with cracks when rolling, and it will not be possible to make a cord at all, the soil is loamy. This type of soil is preferred by most indoor plants.

Sandy, sandy and gravelly soils do not roll into a cord and a ball at all. In sandy soils, when grinding, sand grains are clearly visible, in sandy soils they predominate.

Of the protected ground plants, sandy soils are used for succulents, for some of them crushed stone is also needed, the fragments of which are specially brought in (most often crushed brick is used for this purpose).

Clay soils retain moisture best of all, sandy soils are the worst. However, clay structureless soils at the same time have the worst water permeability and generally low fertility. In indoor floriculture, they are used only for aquatic plants: Clay soils do not cloud the water.

Soil structure

The soil structure is close in importance to its mechanical composition. It depends on it how much moisture it can hold, how convenient it will be for the roots to “live and work” in it. When the soil is completely homogeneous, it is called structureless. If lumps (aggregates up to a centimeter long) can be distinguished in the soil, it is structural.

Structural soil is better suited for plants, since it is able to protect deep layers from drying out, and dry lumps on the surface (unlike structureless soil) do not form a dense, fused crust that compresses plants and prevents seedlings from germinating. If a crust has formed, it must be destroyed.

To improve the mechanical structure of the soil, it is dug up and loosened.

The content of humus (humus) in the soil is very important, since it is it that ensures fertility in general (i.e. contains nutrients). Most of it is in chernozems, least of all in podzols. Fertilize the soil to increase the nutrient content.

In addition, there are various microorganisms in the soil, some of which are desirable and useful for any plant, as they participate in the formation of humus, mineralization of organic residues, release enzymes, vitamins, amino acids, growth substances, etc. into the environment, and also play a sanitary role. , but there are also pathogenic (for plants) microbes.

Previously, their presence in the soil was something completely beyond the control of man, but now developed special technologies management of vital activity of soil microflora. To control soil microflora, special bacterial preparations are used.

The most curious modern discovery in this area is the so-called EM technologies based on efficient use microorganisms.

Soil moisture is important in itself (plants take water from it) and as a component of a certain environment (humidity is a factor in the microclimate as a whole), but also because roots can only absorb nutrients in dissolved form. This -- variable. Soil moisture can be determined by touch.

Soil acidity

Soils can have different acidity.

Strongly acidic (pH 3-4) and strongly alkaline (pH 8-9) are unfavorable for all plants. But the rest - who cares. Some plants prefer a neutral environment (pH 6-7), others - slightly alkaline (pH 7-8), others - slightly acidic (pH 5-6). Soil acidity requirements are usually specified in individual plant characteristics. In addition to hyperacidity, v acidic soils usually there is a lack of boron and molybdenum necessary for plants.

Most protected ground plants require soil mixtures with a neutral reaction. It is easier to single out exceptions to the rules in a separate list.

Acidic and slightly acidic soils prefer:

1) azalea (pH can drop to 4),

2) akalifa (slightly acid),

3) alocasia (pH 5.5),

4) bergeranthus (pH from 4.5),

5) gerbera (pH is strictly within 5-6, both an increase and a decrease are harmful),

6) hydrangea (pH 4-5),

7) diffeibachia,

8) calla (pH 5.5),

9) camellia (pH 5.5),

10) cypress,

11) Oxalis Ortgis (pH 5.5),

12) cordilin (pH 5.5),

13) oscularia (pH from 4.5),

14) otonna (pH from 4.5), ferns,

16) pachyphytum,

17) pittosporum (pH 5.5),

18) rhododendron,

19) sansevieria (pH 5.5 and above),

20) faucaria (pH from 4.5),

21) philodendron (pH 5.5),

22) Wood's ceropegia (pH from 4.5),

23) cestrum (pH 5.6 and above),

24) cyclamen (pH 5.5 and above),

25) euphorbia (spurge spurge) (pH from 4.5), as well as almost all cacti (pH from 4.5 to 6).

A slightly alkaline reaction is desirable (pH about 7):

1) gardenia,

2) calceolaria,

3) an equal-leaved bell "groom" and "bride",

4) ophiopogon,

5) chlorophytum (pH up to 7.5).

The reaction of the soil solution can be measured with special instruments (potentiometer or Alyamovsky's device).

To determine acidity in a simple way, you have to act like this.

1. Take a sample of the soil or soil mixture you want to apply and dry well.

2. Dilute a teaspoon of the dry mixture in 30 g of distilled water.

3. Shake, let stand for a day.

4. Pour the upper layer of the liquid into a clean dish, dip a litmus paper into it and check the color change on the color scale. Soil salinization.

The soil can be not only acidic or alkaline, but also saline, one in which an excessive amount of easily soluble (most often sodium) salts has accumulated.

Often the cause of salinization is an excess of illiterate immoderate watering.

By outward signs it is not easy to determine salinity, although the soil brightens due to leaching of humus. But to reduce fertility ( worse growth) the presence of salinity can only be calculated by elimination - by the absence of signs characteristic of a lack of nutrients, or symptoms of diseases. Sometimes on dark background soil protrude whitish small crystals. In ceramic pots, salt effusions can show through their walls.

On the early stages salinity (after about six months of irrigation with hard water), it is better to use ameliorants. If the signs of salinity have become too obvious, it is better to resort to transplanting and replacing the entire soil.

The probability of soil salinization is reduced when using boiled or well-settled water, it will be minimal when using rain or melt water.

For improvement chemical properties soil (such as acidity or salinity) it is reclaimed.

Soil is a complex biological complex that includes mineral (mechanical) and organic parts, soil air, water, microflora and microfauna. From this complex and a combination of influencing factors, such as climatic conditions, planting dates, variety, timeliness and literacy of agricultural practices, the quality of growing horticultural crops on your personal plot. Also no less important when laying a garden, lawn or vegetable garden is the type of soil. It is determined by the content of mineral and organic particles.

The type of soil prevailing in your area determines the choice of crops, their placement, and ultimately the yield. Depending on this, a specific complex is developed to maintain fertility through proper processing and the application of the necessary fertilizers.

The main types of soils that owners of household and summer cottages most often encounter include: clay, sandy, sandy loam, loamy, calcareous and swampy. A more precise classification is as follows:

• By mechanical composition- sandstones, sandy loams, loams, alumina.
• By organic composition- chernozems, gray soils, brown and red soils.

Each soil has both positive and negative properties, which means it differs in recommendations for improvement and selection of crops. In their pure form, they are rare, mostly in combination, but with a predominance of certain characteristics. Let's consider each type in detail.

Sandy soil (sandstones)

Sandstones are light soil types. They are loose, loose, easily pass water. If you pick up a handful of such earth and try to form a lump, then it will crumble.

The advantage of such soils— they quickly warm up, are well aerated, are easily processed. But at the same time, they quickly cool, dry out, weakly retain minerals in the root zone - and this flaw. Nutrients are washed out by water into the deep layers of the soil, which leads to a decrease in the presence of beneficial microflora and suitability for growing crops.

Sandstones

To increase the fertility of sandstones, it is necessary to constantly take care of improving their sealing and binding properties. This can be achieved by introducing peat, compost, humus, clay or drill flour (up to two buckets per 1 m²), using green manure (with incorporation into the soil), and high-quality mulching.

More non-standard method improvement of these soils is the creation of an artificial fertile layer by claying. To do this, in place of the beds, it is necessary to arrange a clay castle (lay clay in a layer of 5 - 6 cm) and pour 30 - 35 cm of sandy or loamy soil on it.

At the initial stage of processing, it is allowed to grow the following crops: carrots, onions, melons, strawberries, currants, fruit trees. Cabbage, peas, potatoes and beets will feel somewhat worse on sandstones. But, if you fertilize them with fast-acting fertilizers, in small doses and often enough, you can achieve good results.

Sandy soil (sandy loam)

Sandy loam is another variant of soils that are light in texture. In terms of their qualities, they are similar to sandstone, but contain a slightly higher percentage of clay inclusions.

The main advantages of sandy loam- they have a better holding capacity for mineral and organic substances, they warm up quickly and hold it for a relatively long time, they pass moisture less and dry out more slowly, they are well aerated and can be easily processed.

sandy soil

With conventional methods and the choice of zoned varieties, anything can grow on sandy loamy soil. This is one of the good options for gardens and orchards. However, methods of increasing and maintaining fertility for these soils are also acceptable. This involves the introduction of organic matter (in normal doses), the sowing of green manure crops, and mulching.

Clay soil (alumina)

Alumina are heavy soils with a predominance of clayey and loess (silty) sedimentary rocks. They are difficult to cultivate, have little air and are colder than sandy soils. The development of plants on them is somewhat delayed. Water can stagnate on the surface of very heavy soils due to the low water absorption coefficient. Therefore, growing crops on it is quite problematic. However, if clay soil is properly cultivated, it can become quite fertile.

How to identify clay soil? After digging, it has a large-lumpy dense structure, when wet, it sticks to the feet, does not absorb water well, and easily sticks together. If a handful of wet alumina is rolled into a long "sausage", then it can be easily bent into a ring, while it will not crumble into pieces or crack.

clayey look soil

To facilitate the processing and beneficiation of alumina, it is recommended to periodically add substances such as coarse sand, peat, ash and lime. And you can improve the biological quality with the help of manure and compost.

The introduction of sand into clay soil (no more than 40 kg per 1 m 2) makes it possible to reduce the moisture capacity and thus increase its thermal conductivity. After sanding, it becomes suitable for processing. In addition, its ability to warm up and water permeability increases. Ash enriches with nutrients. Peat loosens and increases water-absorbing properties. Lime reduces acidity and improves soil air conditions.

Recommended Trees for Clay Soils: hornbeam, pear, pedunculate oak, willow, maple, alder, poplar. shrubs: barberry, periwinkle, hawthorn, weigela, derain, viburnum, cotoneaster, hazel, magonia, currant, snowberry, spirea, chaenomeles or Japanese quince, mock orange or garden jasmine. From vegetables potatoes, beets, peas and Jerusalem artichoke feel good on clay.

Particular attention to clay soils should be given to loosening and mulching.

Loamy soil (loams)

Loamy soil is the most suitable look for growing horticultural crops. It is easy to process, contains a large percentage of nutrients, has high air and water permeability, is able not only to retain moisture, but also to evenly distribute it over the thickness of the horizon, and retains heat well.

You can determine the loam by taking a handful of this soil in the palm of your hand and roll it up. As a result, you can easily form a sausage, but when deformed, it collapses.

Due to the combination of available properties, loamy soil does not need to be improved, but it is only necessary to maintain its fertility: mulch, periodically apply organic and mineral fertilizers.

All types of crops can be grown on loams.

calcareous soil

Lime soil belongs to the category of poor soils. Usually it has a light brown color, a large number of stony inclusions, does not give iron and manganese to plants well, and can have a heavy or light composition. At elevated temperatures, it quickly heats up and dries out. In crops grown on such soil, foliage turns yellow and unsatisfactory growth is observed.

calcareous soil

To improve the structure and increase the fertility of calcareous soils, it is necessary to regularly apply organic fertilizers, mulch, sow green manure, apply potash fertilizers.

Everything is possible to grow on this type of soil, but with frequent loosening of row spacing, timely watering and thoughtful use of mineral and organic fertilizers. Will suffer from weak acidity: potatoes, tomatoes, sorrel, carrots, pumpkin, radish, cucumbers and salads. Therefore, they need to be fed with fertilizers that tend to acidify (ammonium sulfate, urea), and not alkalize the soil, for example.

Marshy soil (peat)

Marshy (peaty) soils are not uncommon in garden plots. Unfortunately, it is difficult to call them good for growing crops. This is due to the minimum content of plant nutrients in them. Such soils quickly absorb water, just as quickly give it away, do not warm up well, often have a high acidity index.

The only merit swampy soils- they retain mineral fertilizers well and are easy to cultivate.

swampy soil

To improve the fertility of swampy soils, it is necessary to enrich the earth with sand or clay flour. You can also apply liming and fertilizer.

To lay a garden on peat soils, it is better to plant trees either in pits, with soil individually laid for cultivation, or in bulk hills, from 0.5 to 1 meter high.

Using as a garden, the peat bog must be carefully cultivated or, as in the variant with sandy soils, a clay layer should be laid and loam mixed with peat, organic fertilizers and lime should be poured on it. For growing gooseberries, currants, chokeberry and garden strawberries you can do nothing, just water and weed, since these crops grow on such soils even without cultivation.

Chernozems

Chernozems are soils of high potential fertility. Stable granular-lumpy structure, high humus content, high percentage of calcium, good water-absorbing and water-retaining abilities make it possible to recommend them as the best way for growing crops. However, like any other soil, they tend to deplete from constant use. Therefore, already 2-3 years after their development, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizers to the beds and sow green manure.

Chernozem

Chernozems can hardly be called light soils, so they are often loosened by adding sand or peat. They can also be acidic, neutral and alkaline, which also needs to be controlled. To determine the black soil, it is necessary to take the guest of the earth and squeeze it in the palm of your hand. The result should be a black bold print.

Serozems

For the formation of serozems, loess-like loams and loess with pebble bedding are necessary. Plain gray soils are formed on clayey and heavy loamy deluvial and alluvial rocks.

For vegetation cover zones with serozems are characterized by pronounced zonality. At the lower level, as a rule, there is a semi-desert with bluegrass and sedge. It gradually passes into the next zone with a semi-desert and bluegrass, sedge, poppy and barley representing it. Higher areas of the foothills and low mountains are mainly occupied by wheatgrass, barley and other crops. Willows and poplars grow on river floodplains.

Serozem

The following horizons are distinguished in the profile of serozems:

• Humus (thickness from 12 to 17 cm).
• Transitional (thickness from 15 to 26 cm).
• Carbonate illuvial (60 to 100 cm thick).
• Silty-loamy with inclusions at a depth of more than 1.5 m of fine-grained gypsum.

Serozems are characterized by a relatively low content of humic substances - from 1 to 4%. In addition, they differ increased level carbonates. These are alkaline soils with insignificant indicators of absorptive capacity. They contain a certain amount of gypsum and easily soluble salts. One of the properties of gray soils is the biological accumulation of potassium and phosphorus. Soils of this type contain quite a lot of easily hydrolysable nitrogen compounds.

V agriculture sierozem soils can be used subject to special irrigation measures. Most often they grow cotton. In addition, beets, rice, wheat, corn and melons can be successfully cultivated in areas with gray soils.

To improve the quality of gray soils, in addition to irrigation, measures are recommended to prevent secondary salinization. It will also require regular application of organic and mineral fertilizers, the formation of a deep arable layer, the use of the alfalfa-cotton crop rotation method and the sowing of green manure.

Brown soils

Brown forest soils are formed on variegated and red-colored gravel-loamy, proluvial, alluvial and alluvial-deluvial rocks of the plains, located in the foothills under deciduous, beech-hornbeam, oak-ash, beech-oak and oak forests. In the eastern part of Russia, they are localized on foothill and intermountain plains and are located on clayey, loamy, alluvial and eluvial-deluvial bases. They often grow mixed, spruce, cedar, fir, maple and oak forests.

Brown soils

The process of formation of brown forest soils is accompanied by the release of soil-forming and weathering products from the thickness of the soil profile. They usually have a mineral, organic and organo-mineral structure. For the formation of soil of this type, the so-called litter (fallen parts of plants), which is a source of ash components, is of particular importance.

The following horizons can be identified:

• Forest litter (0.5 to 5 cm thick).
• Rough humus humus.
• Humus (up to 20 cm thick).
• Transitional (thickness from 25 to 50 cm).
• Maternal.

The main characteristics and composition of brown forest soils vary significantly from one horizon to another. In general, these are soils saturated with humus, the content of which reaches 16%. A significant part of its components is occupied by fulvic acids. Soils of the presented type are acidic or slightly acidic. They often undergo processes of claying. Sometimes the upper horizons are depleted in silty components.

In agriculture, brown forest soils are traditionally used for growing vegetables, cereals, fruit and industrial crops.

To determine what type of soil prevails on your site, it is best to contact specialists. You will be helped to find out not only the type of soil by the content of minerals, but also the presence of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and other useful microelements in it.

The question asked is by no means as primitive and simple as it might seem to someone at first. It should be immediately noted that both soil and soil are the main subjects for studying the corresponding partially overlapping disciplines: soil science and soil science.

Russian term soil science relates to the specialized scientific discipline of soils as a separate natural body. This scientific discipline is part of natural science and belongs to the family of geosciences. He studies soil science, the structure, composition, properties, origin, development, distribution and fertility of soils, and also develops measures for their rational use / protection. The founding father of the discipline is Dokuchaev V.V., who wrote a monograph and a doctoral dissertation on the topic “Russian Chernozem”, and the year of its official defense (1883) began to be considered the “year of birth” of soil science.

A term similar in origin soil science is a specialized section engineering geology, a separate science of soils. This scientific discipline explores the composition, structure, properties and condition of soils, the soil massifs/thickness/bodies composed by them, as well as the patterns of their formation, changes in time/space under the influence of modern and predictable geoprocesses taking place in the earth's crust under the influence of the entire existing population. natural factors- and above all in connection with the engineering and economic / engineering and construction human activity. The object of study in soil science is any soil - from rocks, soils and sediments to artificial geological formations.

Definitions

Soil is the essence of the upper (surface) layer of the earth's lithosphere, which has fertility and is a polyfunctional open heterogeneous system of four phases (liquid / solid / gaseous plus living organisms), structurally formed as a result of the processes of vital activity of organisms and weathering of rocks.

Soil is a dynamic multicomponent system (as mentioned above, it includes rocks, sediments / soils and technogenic formations), which is part of the geological environment and is considered in direct connection with engineering and economic human activities.

Those who wish to receive more detailed interpretations will immediately refer to the relevant special literature, and here we will try to isolate key moment, important for "everyday" understanding - and will help us in this ... Ridley Scott's film "The Martian". Recall that in the context of interest to us main character is engaged in the purposeful transformation of Martian soil into soil, using available organic matter, water and microorganisms, ultimately achieving the manifestation of the main property of the soil - fertility in relation to the planted plant.

There is also a strict definition for the concept of “soil fertility”: it is the ability of the soil to satisfy the needs of the plants placed in it for nutrients, air and moisture, and also to provide them with conditions for normal life.

In this regard, it would also be useful to mention a couple more definitions that are already in circulation in the regulatory literature:

• According to GOST 54003-2010, soil is either artificially created but at the same time fertile soil mass, or a fertile layer mechanically removed from the surface of any land plot or brought to it.
• According to GOST 27593-88, soil is a natural-historical organo-mineral independent natural body formed on the earth's surface as a result of long-term exposure to abiotic, biotic and anthropogenic factors, including solid mineral / organic particles, air and water, and also having special genetic and morphological properties and characteristics that create appropriate conditions for the development and growth of plants.

conclusions

So, if we return from Mars to the sinful Earth and consider any one and the same patch of lawn from the point of view of the terms that interest us, then the following immediately becomes obvious:

1. Looking at it as a "soil", we consider it primarily from an engineering-mechanistic (economic) point of view (most often as a potential object in engineering and construction activities).
2. Considering it as “soil”, we are primarily interested in its fertility relative to the plant that will be grown on it in the future (it is important to understand that the requirements of different plants for soil fertility can be different and generally highly specific).

Are the words "earth" and "soil" synonymous? Yes and no. How is this possible? Yes, very easy! Each of these words has many interpretations, and if we take, say, one of the meanings of the word "earth", then one of the meanings of the word "soil" will correspond to it. What is the difference between the earth and the soil, we will consider in more detail below.

Polysemantic words

So when talking about soil”, then the following concepts can be denoted by this word:

• upper layer earth's crust containing rotted remains of organisms;
• "bottom" of a mine working;
• term in heraldry;
• river in Siberia.

« Land"- a much more ambiguous word, and it is hardly advisable to give all its meanings. Let's take a look at the most popular:

• our planet;
• the surface layer of the earth's land (this is precisely what is common with "soil");
• land as opposed to ocean;
• traditional translation into Russian of the names of administrative-territorial units of many states.

What is the difference between earth and soil, if in both cases they mean the top layer of land on which everything grows? There is no difference, they are synonyms. Specialists (soil scientists, agronomists, and so on) usually use the word "soil". Everyone else says "earth".

Comparison

As for other meanings of the words "earth" and "soil", they mean a variety of things and abstract concepts. When it comes to the motives for committing an act, they pronounce the phrase "committed on the basis." And further follows keyword- on the basis of hatred (most often) or love. The word "soil" in this case is used to refer to a certain basis on which strong feelings capable of pushing both to a feat and to a crime. This is an example of an abstract application.

"Earth", in addition to those listed above, has whole line meanings used to name a variety of things. This word is fundamental, from time immemorial has meant a lot to agricultural peoples. Therefore, it is not surprising that four feature films, three studio albums of various musical groups and a rural newspaper published in Transbaikalia are called this way. In addition, “earth” is a letter of the old Slavic Cyrillic alphabet, and electricians also have a slang term for grounding. This, perhaps, can put an end to the conversation about the difference between earth and soil.

Owners of garden plots and household plots know firsthand how important the quality of the land under their feet is. After all, the yield of plantings and aesthetic appearance lawn.

Before choosing a soil, it is necessary to determine the further purpose of the poured area. It can be a place for agricultural work or a space for ordinary landscaping. In these cases, two types of soil are used - this is fertile soil and vegetable soil.

These two types differ in their structure, purpose, price and method of extraction. Let's try to highlight the main differences between fertile soil and vegetable soil.

The difference in the origin of the soil

fertile soil obtained artificially by mixing high-moor peat (low degree of decomposition) and additional substrates (sand, chernozem) in percentage 50 to 50.

Development of fertile soil in the field

This ratio can vary significantly - the more additives in the soil, the higher its fertile properties.

plant soil is a mixture of sand and grassroots peat with a slight addition of minerals. It is also obtained naturally- mechanical removal of the top layer of the earth.

The percentage of peat to sand in vegetable soil is usually 60 to 40. With natural origin, turf is allowed in its composition, in which case the amount of peat increases to 75%.

Differences in the features of the composition

fertile soil enriched with a large amount of nutrients, which, of course, affects its high bioactivity. In composition, it has a lumpy structure and low density, freely passes water, as it is saturated with oxygen. Fertile soil has neutral acidity and is environmentally friendly.

plant soil different from the fertile balanced composition of the main components. Peat, sand and minerals provide it with the necessary density, ideally retain moisture and air, which favorably affects plant growth. When vegetable soil is added to the soil, the structure of the earth turns out to be lumpy and loose. It has a neutral or weak acidity.

Differences in the scope of fertile and vegetable soil

fertile soil used in agriculture for planting a wide variety of crops in it. In this case, it is added to the ground in its pure form, as it requires additional feeding. A variant of soil enrichment is also possible, when the soil is mixed with the existing land to increase its fertility. This type of soil is popular in agro-industrial enterprises and farms.

Loading vegetable soil from the field

plant soil mainly used in landscaping. The low content of humus does not allow it to compete with fertile soil in the agricultural sector. However, due to its density, plant soil - perfect solution to create a lawn, park areas, laying out flower beds or to restore damaged soil.

Issue price

The price of fertile soil almost always depends on the composition - the more nutritious organic and inorganic substances, the higher it is.

The price of vegetable soil depends on the place of its removal - usually this is done in environmentally friendly places. The cost of fertile soil will always be higher than that of vegetable soil. This is due to the technology of obtaining soil, the use of special additives and more high quality peat.