Soil for Saintpaulias: purchased soil or “homemade”? What soil do violets need? What soil is best to plant violets?

Before going on to describe the various soil mixtures, denote General requirements to the composition of the soil for violets. What kind of soil do these miniature plants need? The soil for violets should consist of leafy soil, which, due to its characteristics (it is very loose), perfectly allows air and moisture to pass through. Rotted fallen leaves are called leaf soil. Next, the composition should include turf. It, like leaf soil, makes up upper layer soil and is in close proximity to the roots of Saintpaulia.

The best fillers are coniferous soil (also characterized by good looseness) and peat. High-moor peat is perfect as a base for soils for violets; it also adds looseness to the soil and supplies it with useful substances.

It is high-moor peat that is most often the main component in soils for indoor plants found in flower shops. Peat perfectly nourishes the flowers at first, however, as mentioned earlier, peat mixture alone will not be enough - it needs to be supplemented with other elements.

Besides, in Lately In order to improve air and water permeability, coconut fiber is used in the soil composition. However, no beneficial properties This component does not possess anything other than those indicated, since it cannot provide the plant with any nutrients.

In small quantities, vermicompost can be used in the soil for violets. Although it is very heavy and unable to provide good water and air permeability, it provides the plant with the necessary substances. If you use vermicompost, it is best to add raising agents: high-moor peat, perlite, vermiculite.

Baking powder is a must, because soils without it turn into a frozen lump of earth, and the roots quickly rot. Perlite (small white balls), vermiculite (if this is not available, sphagnum moss can be used), and peat are often used. River sand will perfectly protect your soil composition from dehydration.

To provide good drainage, first a layer of expanded clay is laid out, and on top of it - charcoal(the presence of charcoal will ensure good absorption). Expanded clay and charcoal need to fill the pot to about half - the rest of the space is intended for the substrate.

If these elements are present in the soil, your violets will feel great.

Ready-made soil mixtures

For those who do not want to prepare soil for violets at home, manufacturers have prepared many ready-made options. You can choose a mixture called “For sowing seeds and planting seedlings,” which includes sand, peat and coconut fiber.

You can also choose Saintpaulia soil - a mixture for violets, to which you need to add baking powder and fertilizers.

“Bereginya” soil is also suitable for violets, or you can choose soil called “Flower Happiness. Violet" - both from the manufacturer "Fasco". Their composition is not very different.

If you want to purchase an excellent peat base, and then supplement it with the necessary components, you can choose a mixture from Tera Vita. But this is suitable for those who are ready to additionally improve the soil for Saintpaulias, and not buy a mixture that can be used right away.

You can also choose a professional mixture for violets “Classman”. To use in "Classman" you just need to add perlite. Judging by the reviews, this option can be called the best for your indoor violet. The only downside is the purchase. You need to purchase “Classman” directly from the distributor, and this is a rather lengthy and expensive process.

Remember that no matter how good the soil purchased in the store is, it must be steamed with boiling water before use. After this procedure, you do not need to immediately use it and plant flowers there. It is necessary for it to completely restore its microflora (this takes about a month), and it is also necessary to fertilize it during this time if there is a lack of nutrients.

Making your own substrate

You can please your indoor flowers by making a substrate for violets with your own hands. There are several recipes for substrate for violets, but which one is right for you can only be decided through experience. So, what are the rules for composing a soil mixture for your indoor plant?

We take universal soil (or one specially designed for violets), mix it with peat (we stick to a 1:2 ratio). Next, add one part of perlite to this composition (can be replaced with moss or vermiculite). Finally, you will need half a batch of charcoal. Feel free to plant your violets in such a substrate.
Mix nutrient soil, perlite, sphagnum moss and charcoal in a ratio (6:1:1:1). Violets will also grow well in this composition.
Supplement peat and nutrient soil (in a ratio of 3:1) with vermiculite (one part). To this mixture you need to add half a portion of charcoal, and it will be suitable for use.
For four parts of peat soil, you will need one part of sphagnum moss and half a part of perlite (or vermiculite), as well as coconut fiber. A small amount of charcoal can be added to the resulting soil mixture to improve its properties.

Necessary fertilizers

So, we figured out how to prepare (or purchase) a substrate for violets. However, that's not all. No matter how good the soil is, it will still need additional fertilizer.

Ash and charcoal are used as fertilizers. You can also use mullein, previously crushed, for these purposes. These elements help the roots of the plant to develop, and it will always delight you with beautiful flowers.

In order to saturate the soil with calcium and potassium, it is recommended to use eggshells. In addition, it will reduce the acidity of the soil to an optimal level.

In addition, you don’t have to worry about choosing the right fertilizers yourself, but use ready-made mineral additives and complex fertilizers, which are easily found on the shelves of specialized stores.

If you decide to plant an indoor violet on your windowsill, you need to know about all the intricacies of caring for this miniature flower, taking into account the varietal characteristics (after all, it is the varietal preferences that determine the specifics of caring for the plant). One of important aspects- soil for Saintpaulias, the choice of which must be approached extremely responsibly. In this article we will tell you what kind of soil to plant violets in, and we will consider all the options - from ready-made soil mixtures to soil substrates prepared with your own hands.

Before moving on to the description of various soil mixtures, we will outline the general requirements for the composition of soil for violets. What kind of soil do these miniature plants need? The soil for violets should consist of leafy soil, which, due to its characteristics (it is very loose), perfectly allows air and moisture to pass through. Rotted fallen leaves are called leaf soil. Next, the composition should include turf. It, like leaf soil, makes up the top layer of soil and is in close proximity to the roots of Saintpaulia.

In addition, recently, in order to improve air and water permeability, coconut fiber has been used in the soil composition. However, this component does not have any beneficial properties other than those indicated, since it cannot provide the plant with any nutrients.

To ensure good drainage, first lay out a layer of expanded clay, and on top of it - charcoal (the presence of charcoal will ensure good absorption). Expanded clay and charcoal need to fill the pot to about half - the rest of the space is intended for the substrate.

If these elements are present in the soil, your violets will feel great.

Ready-made soil mixtures

You can also choose Saintpaulia soil - a mixture for violets, to which you need to add baking powder and fertilizers.

“Bereginya” soil is also suitable for violets, or you can choose soil called “Flower Happiness. Violet" - both from the manufacturer "Fasco". Their composition is not very different.

Making your own substrate

We take universal soil (or one specially designed for violets), mix it with peat (we stick to a 1:2 ratio). Next, add one part of perlite to this composition (can be replaced with moss or vermiculite). Finally, you will need half a batch of charcoal. Throw your violets into such a substrate.
Mix nutrient soil, perlite, sphagnum moss and charcoal in a ratio (6:1:1:1). Violets will also grow well in this composition.
Supplement peat and nutrient soil (in a ratio of 3:1) with vermiculite (one part). To this mixture you need to add half a portion of charcoal, and it will be suitable for use.
For four parts of peat soil, you will need one part of sphagnum moss and half a part of perlite (or vermiculite), as well as coconut fiber. A small amount of charcoal can be added to the resulting soil mixture to improve its properties.

There is a constant debate among flower growers about which soil is better to use: store-bought or home-made based on soil “taken” from nature. There are plenty of supporters of both points of view, and each gives their own arguments in favor of the choice made.

Who, after all, is closest to the truth? Let's dig in!

Pros and cons of natural earth

Even in the most provincial town there is at least one retail outlet related to floral theme. Actually, there you can buy ready-made soil. Of course, the assortment in the outback differs significantly from that in the metropolis. The fact is that the highest quality, almost ready-to-use primers (for example, the GREENWORLD brand) are more expensive, and you are unlikely to find them in small shops. The owners of such stores simply do not want to import expensive “land” for fear of not finding buyers for it.

More budget options are not always of the proper quality. And the information indicated on the packaging sometimes does not correspond to what is inside it. This is where, in most cases, the “dog is buried” in the reluctance to use purchased soils. And, as you know, bad news spreads much faster than good news and is remembered longer. Because of such isolated cases, in a certain circle of amateur flower growers, there was an opinion that it was better not to get involved in trade, but to go into the field and dig up as much as needed. And you won’t have to pay any money at all - total savings!

Indeed, there are cases when such a position is justified. Well, there are no factory soils in rural stores - and that’s it! In fact, shouldn’t we write them out by mail? Although, some advanced violets from the “outback” do this, but this is rather an exception.

In general, let’s give natural soil a “plus” for being free. This is where the pros end and the cons begin.

The first, most important, fattest minus - pests and diseases .

What can you not get with free land! This is especially true for flower growers “gardeners” - owners of summer cottages. It is with garden soil that late blight, various rots, etc. are introduced. And don’t think that you can avoid this by taking land in an “ecologically friendly” forest. ON THE PICTURE: A nematode brought with garden soil infects root system violets

You can, of course, steam/fry garden soil. It’s good if you have the opportunity to carry out this procedure on the street. But if you start “cooking” at home in the kitchen, then it is unlikely that both your household and yourself will like the aromas emitted by the “dish” being prepared. Yes and bad smell It then takes a very long time to dissipate.

It is naive to think that by steaming or frying soil brought from the fields, you will get rid of its unwanted inhabitants. Of course, moving animals will be destroyed by high temperatures, but pest eggs, spores of pathogenic fungi and weed seeds will most likely survive.

After heat treatment for quite a long time, such soil cannot be used for planting and replanting. It is “dead”, in it, along with pathogenic flora and pests, beneficial microorganisms are also destroyed.

Why processing natural earth doesn't solve problems?

Nature, as we know, does not tolerate a vacuum, and the first inhabitants of such soil will be the most adaptable and resilient “enemies”. Under normal conditions, their activity was suppressed due to the opposition of antagonist bacteria, i.e. a certain balance of “the forces of good and evil” was maintained. But, after such an intervention, the pathogens that occupied the territory first, in the absence of competitors, begin to actively multiply, giving virtually no chance for “good” bacteria to develop. A plant planted in such soil is doomed to death in advance.

Therefore, the land that has undergone heat treatment is forcibly populated with beneficial bacteria, treated with drugs such as Fitosporin and Baikal EM-1. "Fitosporin" will suppress the activity of pathogenic microflora, and "Baikal EM-1", containing several cultures of beneficial microorganisms, will restore the microflora in the soil.

The soil prepared in this way “stands” for at least a month - and only then is it ready for use.

It is wrong to believe that deep freezing can solve all problems with pathogenic environments. After defrosting, even earthworms that fell into this soil return to life, not just spores and pests.

ON THE PICTURE: Earthworms easily tolerate soil freezing

What is pH and why is it so important to know it?

The natural soil in different regions of our country is different: one contains more sand, the other is loamy. As a rule, it is always quite “heavy” for violets and requires the addition of additional components in significant quantities.

Saintpaulia is also important for normal growth and flowering Soil pH. This is an indicator of the concentration of hydrogen ions (H +) in the soil, i.e. its acidity. The lower its value, the more sour it is.

Saintpaulias prefer slightly acidic soil (6.3–6.8), close to neutral. How sure can you be that the soil you extract has the required acidity? This means you need to get a special device for measuring pH, or at least indicator strips (although they show only approximate values).
ON THE PICTURE: An electronic pH meter will accurately determine the acidity of the soil, but not everyone can afford it. A budget option- indicator strips - will not give the desired measurement accuracy

Well, decide: do you need this hassle with natural soil?

Pros and cons of factory soils

Ready-made soil at a specialized retail outlet has, perhaps, one drawback - you have to pay money for it. And then we will celebrate the positives. There are quite a lot of them:

The purchased soil is treated against pests and diseases and contains no weed seeds.
It is ready to eat immediately after you bring it from the store.
It contains the necessary microelements and fertilizers.
Known pH.
All information about the composition of the soil, additives - if any (perlite, expanded clay), and mineral fertilizers added to it - is displayed on the packaging.
There is no need to prepare soil in the warm season, or worry about its processing and subsequent storage.

ON THE PICTURE: The packaging contains full information about the soil: its structure, chemical composition; introduced mineral or organic fertilizers, raising agents

Of course, purchased soils are most often only the basis for preparing an earthen mixture for Saintpaulias - with the exception, perhaps, of not the cheapest ones brands type "Vermion" or GREENWORL. They can be used immediately as soon as you decide to start a transplant. Most soils, when it comes to Uzambara violets, require some “rework”.

Almost all soils offered by trade are made on the basis of high-moor (red peat). The exception is special nutrient soils such as vermicompost - they are good to use as an additive to “peaty” soils.

Tip: when choosing a primer, carefully study the information about its composition indicated on the packaging. Take the one where it is clearly indicated, based on which one exactly This soil is composed of peat.

High-moor and low-lying peat: is there a fundamental difference?

The fact is that peat can be both high-moor (red) and low-lying (black). Lowland peat has a higher pH (5.5–7.0) compared to the more acidic highland peat. It would seem that with this indicator it is ideal for Saintpaulias, but...

Soil acidity is not the most important factor for plants! Watering tap water will still change it closer to neutral. But the structure of the soil is extremely important! Lowland peat consists of fine particles resembling black sand. It is free-flowing, prone to caking, and has little air. Due to this, water will stagnate in the soil based on this peat, which will entail the risk of rotting of the root system.

High-moor peat is fundamentally different in structure. The plant fibers from which it is formed are not yet fully processed, giving it a reddish color. In comparison with lowland, it is more loose and fibrous, has relatively large size particles. Thanks to these fibers, red peat is more breathable - “airy”. In such soil, the roots have the least risk of rotting from waterlogging.
ON THE PICTURE: Lowland and highland peat visually differ from each other in color and structure

Therefore, if possible, we choose soil based on high-moor peat (well, or with a small admixture of low-lying peat - if special choice no) and proceed to the mystery of preparing an earthen mixture for Saintpaulia.

Making the earth mixture

Depending on the quality composition of the purchased soil, the amount of disintegrants used will vary: more of them will need to be added to denser soil. But the principle is still the same. Approximate The composition for transplanting adult Saintpaulias will be as follows:

purchased soil - 5 liters;
perlite - 1 cup;
vermiculite - 1 cup;
finely chopped sphagnum moss - 0.5 liters (about two handfuls);
charcoal - half a glass.

ON THE PICTURE: Components for making an earthen mixture in which Saintpaulia will grow

If you are missing one of the components, you can compensate for it by increasing the amount of another. For example, replace perlite with vermiculite, and vice versa.

Different varieties of Saintpaulia prefer different acidity levels. Some grow and bloom well in almost neutral soil; others will show themselves best in a more sour one. But this is a topic for another discussion.

It should be noted that in order to root leaf cuttings in the soil, it is necessary to add more baking powder in volume - up to 50%.

Don’t be afraid to experiment in search of your “magic” earthen mixture, but don’t overuse them either. If your violets are growing and blooming well, then everything is fine. Remember that the best is the enemy of the good.
ON THE PICTURE: Are you still digging? ;)

Give preference to purchased soils - do not chase “freebies”.
Carefully read the information on the soil package, try to choose soil based on high-moor peat.
Remember that preparing an earthen mixture requires an individual approach depending on what “age” category of Saintpaulia you are preparing it for.

A well-selected soil mixture and carefully carried out replanting are half the success when growing Saintpaulias.

SAINTPAULIA TRANSPLANT

TIME TO TRANSPLANT SAINTPAULIA

When purchasing a young baby, they first evaluate its condition. If it is small, looks healthy, and there are young growing leaves, it means that the soil is composed correctly and the baby has taken root well after being separated from the mother’s leaf. In this case, the plant is not disturbed, but is allowed to grow until the next transshipment.

Standard varieties are transferred 2-3 times, each time increasing the size of the pot by about 2 cm. That is, if a small child is planted in a pot with a diameter of 5-6 cm, the next transfers will be in flowerpots with a diameter of 7-8-9 cm or 7-9 cm, depending on the growth rate.

There is, however, one exception in which a quick transplant of an acquired bush is justified. This is a significant difference between the composition and properties of your soil mixture and the one in which the violet grows.

An adult Saintpaulia is replanted if it begins to bloom worse and its lower part of the stem is noticeably exposed.

What time of year is best to do this? When grown on a windowsill without additional lighting, it is advisable to replant Saintpaulia before active spring growth begins - in December-February. February can be considered the deadline, since in March the day becomes equal to the night and timely transplanted plants are already ready to bloom.

When grown on a shelf with additional lighting, Saintpaulias are replanted throughout the year.

This procedure will not harm even flowering rosettes; you just need to remove all flower stalks and buds at least 1-2 days before transplanting.

POTS

30-40 years ago, the most common and affordable were heavy and not very beautiful pots made of baked clay. Thanks to its porous structure, the earthen lump quickly dried out. But those who like frequent watering could rest assured about the plants; it was almost impossible to water them in small ceramic pots.

A little later, glazed ceramic flowerpots appeared. They retain moisture noticeably longer, and you can water the soil less often. But there are disadvantages: heavy weight and high cost.

A real breakthrough was the appearance of plastic pots and flowerpots. They are light, cheap, different forms and sizes, retain moisture longer, are convenient to wash and sterilize for reuse.

When choosing a pot, you need to remember its size. No matter what it will be mature plant, children separated from the leaf are usually planted in pots or cups with a diameter of 5.5-6 cm. This volume is enough for a healthy start. In the future, children of standard varieties are replanted 2-3 more times, as the previous size becomes small. For adult rosettes of standard varieties, there is a rule according to which the diameter of the pot should be 1/3 of the diameter of the rosette, but, as a rule, size limit the pot for them is 9-10 cm. Subsequently, the violet is annually transplanted into a pot of the same size, replacing only part of the old soil.

Trailers are also transplanted sequentially into pots bigger size, and most often they select wide and low pots and bowls. It is very important for them that the roots do not feel crowded, and that there is enough nutrition in the soil. Each trailer transplant is usually combined with trimming and shaping.

For miniature and semi-miniature varieties, there is practically no question of choosing the size of the pot, since already when the children are separated from the mother leaf, they are planted in containers with a diameter of 5-6 cm and then only annually transplanted into a pot of the same size with partial replacement of the old soil with new one.

Although the difference in the diameters of mini and semi-mini pots seems insignificant, their volumes can vary significantly. The maximum diameter for semi-miniature violets can be considered to be a pot diameter of 6 cm (the volume is 60% larger than that of a 5 cm pot). In such pots it is easier to maintain uniform soil moisture, but the rosettes may grow larger, which will be a disadvantage.

METHODS OF TRANSPLANTING SAINTPAULIA

The most common two methods of replanting Saintpaulias are with preservation of part of the old root system (transplantation itself) and with its complete removal (re-rooting with the head, or rejuvenation), but the second method has variations.

When traditionally replanting an adult plant, the lump of earth is dried a little, the violet is taken out of the pot, some of the roots and old soil are removed from below and planted in a pot of the same size.

Such a rosette can be replanted in the traditional way

Replanting is an excellent time to inspect the root system. Ideally, the lump of earth should be completely penetrated by thin roots, and on its outer part the white tips of new growing roots may be noticeable. If the soil has a characteristic sour smell, you need to urgently change your care regimen. In this case, it is better to use not a traditional transplant, but complete re-rooting.

You should not save a lot of old leaves from the plant. The logic here is simple - in a healthy specimen, the aboveground and underground parts are in strict balance. Roots cut off and damaged during transplantation will not be able to support the nutrition of the previous leaf mass, will experience unnecessary stress and stress, and their growth will slow down. Therefore, several rows of old leaves must be removed, leaving only 1-2 rows of the youngest and healthiest, trying to maintain the symmetry of the rosette.

Also trim off excess roots. This must be done to make room for fresh soil, since for adult Saintpaulias the size of the pot is not increased when replanting. The Saintpaulia is taken out of the flowerpot, the soil is loosened with your hands (this makes it easier to feel where force needs to be applied), and the freed roots are cut in half.

If you can’t unravel the tangled felt of roots, you can cut off the lower half of the lump sharp knife, and sprinkle the cut with charcoal powder. However, it is not necessary to cut off exactly half, less is possible, the main thing is that the height of the remaining clod of earth, installed on a small drainage, allows the exposed stem to be completely buried.

When the plant is ready to plant, drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot, for example, one layer of fine expanded clay or sphagnum moss, and some fresh soil is added. Place the root ball on it, the petioles of the lower leaves should be at the level of the edge of the pot. If part of the stem protrudes above the sides, you can cut off a little more roots. Then carefully add fresh soil almost to the edge of the pot (it’s convenient to do this with a spoon) and lightly compact it around the perimeter.

Immediately after transplantation with the removal of part of the roots, the plant should not be watered under any circumstances (it is better to do this the next day), placed in a bag or a loose greenhouse and kept there for 10-14 days. It is advisable that at this time the Saintpaulia should not be exposed to direct sunlight, and that the roots should be in a warm and only slightly moist substrate, this will speed up their recovery.

Often, plants that have managed to form a rather long stem need to be replanted, or after a transplant with deepening has already been carried out, the stem turns out to be so large that it cannot be buried without pruning. In this case, planting with complete re-rooting of the crown is used. There are several arguments in favor of this technique, but the main one is the complete removal of all metabolic products of roots accumulated in the soil, as well as excess ballast salts supplied with irrigation water.

Often, “heads” planted without roots recover faster than plants transplanted with partial removal of roots.

When completely re-rooted, old leaves are removed according to the rules described above, with the only difference being that even fewer leaves are left - 5-7 fully formed ones. 2-4 cm are removed from the petioles of the lower leaves and the rest of the stem is cut off with a sharp knife or blade at a right or slightly sharp angle. The cut must be dried for 15-20 minutes.

Transplantation is also an excellent way to propagate rare varieties of Saintpaulia.

If there is a variety in the collection that produces few children when propagated by leaves or has a color that is difficult to replicate, for example, a chimera, use a transplant for additional propagation. To do this, it is enough to cut off the “head” and save a few healthy leaves on the remaining stump. The head can be planted, and the stump can be returned to its place or placed in a greenhouse. After some time, stepsons will appear on it. When they reach the size of a small baby, they are separated and rooted. Young plants obtained in this way better retain their varietal color. „

When removing excess leaves, the symmetry of the rosette is maintained - the leaves should be arranged in several overlapping triangles.

Further actions with the “head” of Saintpaulia depend on preferences and experience. There are two options: preliminary rooting in water and direct planting in the ground.

Rooting the “head” in water is considered simpler. In this case, the cutting is placed so that only the end of the stem (0.5-1 cm) touches the water, and the leaves rest on the edge of a small glass. After about 2-3 weeks, the roots that have appeared along the entire length of the stem will have developed sufficiently and it will be possible to

Crown location during rooting in water (the trunk section is only slightly submerged in water)

plant the rejuvenated rosette in the usual way. Remember: it is important to support more mild conditions maintenance and keep the plant covered for another 2-3 weeks after transplantation. –

However, even with this method of rooting there are complications. For example, roots do not appear after 2-4 weeks. This happens when the glass with the cutting is in a cold place or in a draft. If the cut of the stem turns brown, renew it, completely change the water and add half a tablet to it activated carbon. Experienced gardeners often plant the “head” in a fresh mixture. This method is more convenient, especially when transplanting a large collection, but it requires compliance with certain conditions.

When planting the apical cutting directly, fill the pot with fresh mixture almost to the edge, make a depression in the center slightly larger than the length and diameter of the stem, and place the cutting in it. With such a landing lower leaves They can lie on the ground, it's not scary. Using the handle of a spoon, compact the substrate around the cutting, immediately moisten it with a small amount of lukewarm water, sign the name of the variety, and place the pot in a greenhouse or sealed bag. During the rooting process, it is important to create uniform illumination and heating of the soil.

This method can be used throughout the year. As a rule, already two weeks after planting, roots 1.5-2 cm long are noticeable in the surface layer of soil, and after four weeks the bag can be opened slightly, gradually accustoming the plants to indoor conditions.

TRANSFER FREQUENCY

All described methods are suitable for varieties grown in one crown, but not for ampelous violets (trailers). Nevertheless, even rosette varieties have different growth rates - the stem of some lengthens faster, while others, on the contrary, retain a compact shape for a long time. But, be that as it may, replanting at least once a year can be considered optimal, even if the plant retains its compact appearance and continues to bloom. During this time, the physical (porosity, moisture capacity) and chemical (acidity, nutritional value, gas composition) characteristics of the soil change significantly. Therefore, it is so important to provide the roots new life, which will be the key to healthy growth for another year.

Transplanting Saintpaulias. Dividing the bush: video

LAND AND LANDLESS MIXTURES FOR SAINTPAULIA

To learn how to make mixtures for planting Saintpaulias, let’s get acquainted with the properties of the components included in them.

Leaf soil (or leaf humus). It is most often used in the preparation of mixtures for violets. This soil consists of semi-rotted remains of leaves and thin twigs, is moderately nutritious, has a slightly acidic environment and a loose structure. The preparation of leaf soil begins in the fall. To do this, leaf litter is collected in heaps or shallow holes, shoveled several times and watered. After about two years, the land is ready for use.

Leaf humus can also be collected in a broad-leaved forest under linden, maple, birch, and hazel. There is more of it at the base of the trunks of old trees or in low-lying places where fallen leaves accumulate, but moisture does not stagnate.

Sod land less commonly used for violets. It is prepared from turf cut from meadows and fields. Layers 5-10 cm thick are laid in layers: the first - with roots down, the second - with roots up, etc. If possible, the sods are layered with manure and watered. In two years the land is ready.

Turf soil is also collected from a meadow with good grass stand. The turf is cut into small plates and immediately covered with soil, which is located among the small roots.

Manure humus- completely rotted manure (cow, sheep, horse). This is a highly nutritious, pH-neutral component, rich in nitrogen, odorless, light, homogeneous structure. In the composition of soil mixtures, the share of manure humus should not exceed 10%. Otherwise, violets will grow excessively to the detriment of flowering.

Chernozem- heavy fertile soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Its share in the composition of soil mixtures can be 20-30%. With an excess of chernozem, Saintpaulias develop a weak root system (due to the dense structure of the soil), the leaves grow hard and fragile, with short petioles. To prevent undesirable consequences, peat, sphagnum moss or coniferous soil must be added to the mixture containing chernozem, which neutralize its slightly alkaline reaction and give the mixture the necessary looseness.

Coniferous land- this is the bottom layer of coniferous forest litter, preferably pine. Such soil is very light, loose, acidic (pH 4-5), but poor in nutrients. If necessary, it replaces leaf soil, sphagnum moss or peat. But too high a content of coniferous soil in the substrate can cause elongation of leaf petioles.

Peat- the main component of most mixtures for Saintpaulia. Having no nutritional value, it provides plants with an excellent basis for the development of the root system, as it ensures the looseness and moisture capacity of the substrate. For Saintpaulias, red or dark transitional peat (pH 3.5-5.5) is preferable. Black lowland peat is of little use, as it has high degree decomposition and quickly compacts.

Unfortunately, stores rarely have high-quality peat in small packages; more often you can find industrial peat substrates or “microgreenhouses”. Both are peat, seasoned with fertilizer mixtures to provide adequate nutrition to seedlings and flowers for about two months.

Another one important characteristic peat and peat mixtures - their acidity. If the acidity index (pH) of the mixture is in the range of 6.5-7, this is neutralized peat, suitable for violets. If the pH value is from 3 to 6, such peat must be neutralized with dolomite flour before use.

Sphagnum moss is collected from raised and transitional bogs. It has unique aseptic properties and prevents the development of rot. Moss added to the mixture gives it the necessary porosity, breathability and moisture capacity, promotes uniform moistening of the earthen clod and has a beneficial effect on the development of roots. Living sphagnum is suitable for rooting weak and problematic cuttings, as well as as a moisture-retaining bedding in propagation greenhouses and greenhouses. Dried and crushed, they are added to substrates and used as drainage. It is important to remember that the initial acidity of moss is quite high (pH 4).

Sand- This is a completely inert component. River water is most suitable. Before adding to the substrate, it is washed and screened through two sieves, separating too small and too large particles. Optimal size a grain of sand - about the size of a grain of millet.

Less suitable quarry sand- it requires more thorough preparation.

Perlite- a product of industrial processing of natural raw materials (silicate). IN agriculture and floriculture, agroperlite is used, which is white flakes that break under mechanical stress. Its main function is to ensure breathability of the substrate due to its high porosity.

In greenhouses it can be used as a moisture-retaining sterile substrate for rooting. Vermiculite is another inert artificial component, a product of hydromica processing. It has a layered structure and is available in different brands, which differ in size and color. In floriculture, only size matters. For example, for mini-violets the optimal vermiculite fraction is about 5 mm, for standard ones - no more than 8-10 mm. Moisture holding capacity and porosity are the main advantages of vermiculite: when overmoistened, it is able to absorb excess water from the soil and then release it evenly. In its pure form, vermiculite is used for rooting cuttings.

Charcoal is rarely considered as a full-fledged component of the substrate; it is rather a useful additive, representing wood that has not completely burned out. It is easy to prepare from charcoal for barbecue; for this, the raw materials are first burned without the use of incendiary compounds. The collected coal is dried, crushed and screened. The size of the pieces should approximately correspond to the size of the vermiculite particles.

Coal prevents the spread of rot and fungi, acts as a ripper and promotes a healthier water balance. Charcoal can be added to any mixture for indoor plants in an amount of 1/10 of the total volume.

Be careful when using activated carbon (medical or for filters and absorbers), which can literally “suck” from the soil all the substances necessary for growth.

What to give up

Components that should not be added to mixtures for indoor plants include, first of all, “chernozem”, which is imported for creating lawns and flower beds. At best it is black lowland peat. When mixed with loam, it is quite suitable for growing many herbs and flowers, but for indoor plants it is completely useless and even harmful. It’s worse if the imported “soil” is compost from city landfills or filtration fields. Perhaps the flowers will quickly grow in such soil, but what harm it will cause to your health is difficult to predict.

Another surprise may come from the “sand” construction sites, because it can be mistakenly taken for mortar, which already includes cement and binding components.

So, you should follow the rule: do not use components whose origin is unknown.

LANDLESS SUBSTRATES

All substrates or mixtures for growing plants can be divided into two large groups: landless and land.

Soilless substrates do not contain leaf, turf, coniferous soil or humus. When grown on such substrates, the plant must receive all the substances necessary for growth when watered or sprayed with nutrient solutions (hydroponics or wick irrigation). Soilless substrates are widely used in industrial crop production due to their versatility, ease of control of the growth process, absence of pathogens, low cost and availability of components. By the way, most saintpaulia collectors abroad switched to using such mixtures and achieved excellent results. In our country, the spread of such technologies is hampered by the lack of high-quality and varied fertilizers.

In the classical sense, soilless mixture is a mixture of equal parts of peat, perlite and vermiculite. However, Americans offer improved recipes.

The recipe used on the family farm of the Pittman couple (Hortensia Pittman is a famous breeder of miniature Saintpaulia varieties from the USA):

1 part = 1 liter 5 parts of sphagnum peat, 5 parts of vermiculite, 2.5 parts of perlite, 0.2 parts of mineral flour (not dolomite), 0.2 parts of charcoal, 1 teaspoon of dry mineral fertilizer.

3.5 liters of peat, 3.5 liters of vermiculite, 3.5 liters of perlite, 8 tsp. dolomite flour, 1 tbsp. charcoal, 4 tsp. fungicide (the recipe indicates keltan, in our case it can be foundationazol).

"Cornish" mixture

4 liters of peat, 4 liters of vermiculite, 1 tbsp. l. dry mineral fertilizer (5-10-10),

1 tbsp. l. dolomite flour.

RECIPES OF SOIL MIXTURES FOR SAINTPAULIA

Soil substrates are more often referred to simply as soil. They differ from landless ones in that they contain nutritional components rich in organic matter, which allow plants to grow for a long time without additional mineral supplements.

Depending on the qualitative and quantitative composition in floriculture, heavy, medium and light mixtures are distinguished. For Saintpaulias and most plants of the Gesneriaceae family, only light soils are used, which, as a rule, do not contain turf soil.

Here are a few recipes for soil mixtures that have been developed and used successfully experienced flower growers. They can be modified according to individual conditions, taking into account the temperature, room humidity, pot size and watering frequency.

Makuni Spouses Blend Recipe No. 1

1 part leaf soil, 3 parts peat, 1 part black soil, 1 part sand, 1 part sphagnum moss. Add 1 liter of charcoal and 2 tbsp to a bucket of mixture. spoons of granulated superphosphate.

Makuni Spouses Recipe NS2

2 parts of peat, 1 part of turf soil, 0.5 parts of manure humus, 1 part of sand, 1 part of sphagnum moss. Add 1 liter of charcoal, 2 tbsp. to a bucket of mixture. l. dolomite flour, 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate.

"Canadian" mixture

1 tsp leaf soil, 1 tsp garden soil, 1 tsp sand, 1 tsp sphagnum moss (recipe from Makuni’s book “Saintpaulia - Uzambara violet”).

Collectors participating in Moscow exhibitions use the following recipes using ready-made industrial soils:

2 parts of “Vermion Elite” soil, 2 parts of “Goinwold for Flowering” soil, 0.5 parts of perlite, 1 part of vermiculite, 0.5 parts of charcoal.
4 parts Goinvold soil, 0.5 parts perlite, 0.5 parts vermiculite, 1 part sphagnum moss, a little charcoal.
1 part of “Greenwold for flowering” soil, 1 part of “Vermion Protection” soil, 1 part of “Vermion Elite” soil. For 3 liters of mixture add 1 tbsp. perlite and vermiculite and 3 tbsp. spoons of manure humus.

The presented recipes are developed for growing standard varieties, which during the growth process consume a significant amount of nitrogen from the soil. Miniature plants don't need this much nitrogen, but if you've already added it to the soil, they'll consume it and grow disproportionately large foliage.

To adjust any of the recipes given here, you need to reduce the proportion of nutritional components in the mixture and increase the amount of peat and cultivators. ", 3 parts peat, 1 part vermiculite. For 10 liters of mixture - 1 liter of charcoal and 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate.

Many gardeners know that violet is a very whimsical plant. It is afraid of drafts and, if not properly cared for, dies very quickly. Therefore, when choosing soil for planting violets, you need to know some nuances. You can read which soil is better to choose in this article.

Flower soil always needs to be mixed with different components, be it fertilizers or soil additives, you always need to adhere to some standards. Firstly, the soil must be light, it cannot be compacted, there must be air in it. It must be rich in microelements to nourish the plant. Therefore, when choosing it, take land on which nothing has grown for at least a year. Accordingly, before planting, the soil needs to be fed, and fertilizing must also be used from time to time. Phosphorus and potassium are an integral part of any soil; thanks to these substances, your plant will always be healthy, it will bloom and be pleasing to the eye. Remember, also, that nitrogen must be included in the soil, but do not overdo it, stick to the proportions, otherwise you will destroy your plants due to excess nitrogen in the soil.

Thirdly, any pot must have drainage - this is necessary so that moisture in the ground does not stagnate and the roots of the flower do not rot. Drainage can be bought at a special floriculture store, or you can make it yourself from broken bricks. The main thing is to make drainage with a diameter of at least 1 cm, so that there is space between the stones and water seeps through it. If you make very shallow drainage, it will not bring any benefit, its presence will be useless, the water will stagnate and the flower will die.

In any case, when preparing a flower for planting, remember that the soil for the flower must be made by adding impurities to it; in ordinary soil the plant will die. If you don't want to make it yourself, you can purchase it at the store. Usually it is called “soil for violets.”

What do you need to know in order to make soil at home yourself? What impurities should be added and how not to harm the plant due to incorrectly selected components or their quantity.

There are many tips on how to create soil for violets, for example, you can get excellent soil if you mix it with peat and sand. Remember peat and sand should be 4 times less land, that is, the proportions can be as follows (4:1:1). It is better to dig the soil under deciduous trees; such soil is ideal for violets. But don't worry if you've been digging under coniferous trees, such land is also not bad and flowers will grow on it. Some people often add sphagnum moss or fine charcoal to the soil. This can be said to be a kind of subcortex for a flower. The moss needs to be poured with boiling water, then dried and ground, very finely. Then lay it carefully around the plant on the soil. Such moss will protect the plant from diseases; it has a disinfecting effect. Fine coal helps remove excess moisture. It can be used just like regular drainage. Simply place the larger coal at the bottom of the pot and mix the smaller coal with the soil.

For best quality, several types of soil are often mixed, the first is leafy, that is, that which is collected in the forest where they grow deciduous trees. And the second one, collected in a field, in a meadow, is also called turf. It contains rotted plant roots.

The soil should be slightly acidic, or preferably slightly acidic; normal acidic soil will also work. If, however, the soil in your region is too acidic, you can solve this problem with the help of dolomite flour. This is ordinary limestone, which has been crushed into flour. It is added to the soil in small quantities, it all depends on the acidity level of the soil.

The size of the pot is also important for violets. Remember that a pot that is too large, just like one that is too small, will not have a favorable effect on the plant. Choose it according to size; it is better to plant small cuttings in small pots with prepared soil. When they grow up, they need to be replanted and at the same time change the soil. You can also use the old soil, simply adding a new one, similar in composition. Don't forget about feeding the flower.

Very often in stores there is poor quality soil or the composition of the soil does not suit you. It doesn’t matter, you can fix everything yourself, just add to the soil exactly those components that the plant needs most in your opinion. Let's say if the violet is weak and you decide to replant it, then you need to add additional fertilizer, naturally observing the dosage. Do not overfeed your violets, otherwise they will stop blooming.

A great addition to your soil is coir. Although it contains no nutrients, it perfectly absorbs excess moisture and also gives it breathability. Finely chop the dry fiber and mix with earth in a ratio of 1: 8. There should be at least 8 times more earth than this component.

If the buds of your violet fall off before they have yet opened, and the lower leaves deteriorate, turn yellow and fall off, this is the first sign that the soil is not acidic enough. Even though you feed the soil, due to low acidity the plant will still not have enough nitrogen and phosphorus. In order to get rid of this problem, take a regular eggshell, dry it, then grind it into powder using a mortar or rocker and add this powder to the soil.

The second method will also save you from this problem; you will need a regular wood ash. Take two liters of settled water and add 1 tbsp. spoon of ash, mix well and pour this water over your violets.

If you want to know the acidity of the soil of your indoor plants, you can buy an acidity indicator at a special flower shop. Such a device will help you detect a decrease or increase in soil acidity, and you can always correct this problem in time.

If your violet leaves change color, turn purple, or have a bluish, purple or red tint, this is a sign that there is not enough phosphorus in the soil. The only exception is certain varieties of violets, which naturally have this leaf color. If this happens to your violet, feed it or adjust the acidity of the soil in a way that is already familiar to you. Sometimes it happens that there is too much phosphorus, this also negatively affects the flowers. In this case, the violet rosette ages very quickly.

In any case, whatever fillers you choose for the soil, always remember simple diagram. The soil must have drainage, it must be fed, it must have an element that will absorb excess moisture. And it is best to take several types of soil itself, then it will contain all the necessary microelements that violets need.

If you do everything right, the violet will not take long to arrive. Soon you will be able to admire the beauty of its blossoms. After all, green plants at home are not only aesthetic beauty, but also a guarantee of comfort and health, since indoor plants purify the air in your home.