Calla(Calla, zantedeschia, calla, richardia) from the Aroid family (Araceae) - the most beautiful perennial flower, represented by 8 species, as well as many hybrid varieties of tuberous and rhizomatous plants. The beauty and grace of calla lilies are admired by many flower growers around the world. The popularity of these flowers in our country is only growing every year, and folk names exquisite calla flower are very diverse (white fellow traveler, swamp, snake, bodyjar, rubuha, bean, bread box, cockerels). Calla flowers often inspire our craftswomen and needlewomen to make very beautiful crafts or compositions from various improvised materials. For example, crafts in the form of wax funnel-shaped flowers can be sculpted from polymer clay, cold porcelain, salt dough, plastic, foamiran, and also folded from satin ribbons (kanzashi) or made from beads on wire. In cooking, some masters decorate wedding cakes with mastic figurines made in the form of calla flowers.
Some varieties of zantedeschia are perfectly adapted for outdoor cultivation and decorate flower beds around houses, flowering gardens, personal plots. Flower sellers are happy to grow callas in greenhouse conditions, offering buyers luxurious bouquets even in winter.
- photo: calla flowers
The unique shape of the calla flower, shiny waxy leaves are very much appreciated by florists and phytodesigners. These flowers are often used to form beautiful floral arrangements and bouquets of amazing beauty. Many call calla a wedding flower, as the inflorescence is very similar to a long bride's dress. From zantedeschia flowers white color often make lush bouquets for wedding events. According to popular belief, these flowers symbolize the purity of thoughts, contribute to family well-being and harmony in marital relations.
To form brides' bouquets, florists often use white calla flowers with creamy shades. To decorate interior objects at wedding events, you can choose a wider range of richardia colors: pale yellow and rich yellow (symbolize female attractiveness), red (flowers of passion and attraction), purple (royal pomposity), maroon (well-being, prosperity of the family ).
- photo: bridal bouquets
Breeders have bred many interesting potted varieties of richardia that are easy to grow in room conditions. Providing proper care for calla lilies at home is within the power of even novice indoor plant lovers. A photo different types and calla varieties are listed below. Below you will find useful materials and tips to help you grow your own homemade zantedeschia.
Large basal leaves of dark green calla are decorated with white or silver blotches and are very reminiscent of arrowheads. The long stem of this ornamental flowering plant is crowned with a large inflorescence consisting of a yellowish cob with flowers, which elegantly surrounds a funnel-shaped bract.
Phytodesigners sometimes choose indoor calla with flowers different shades as a composition center. Together with this potted flower, it will be interesting to look at flowering houseplants such as homemade phalaenopsis or dendrobium orchid, graceful spathiphyllum (Women's happiness), lush geranium (pelargonium), tuberous begonia, Persian cyclamen, jasmine gardenia. Decorative flowering plants can be placed against the background of miniature trees (Benjamin's ficus, Marginata dracaena, Crassula Money tree, Zamioculcas Dollar tree, palm yucca or Hamedorea palm).
For growing at home, breeders have bred unpretentious varieties from Ethiopian Calla (Calla aethiopica), the care of which is not too difficult even for beginners. There are also very interesting home varieties bred from species such as Calla Elliott (Calla elliottiana), Calla Remanna (Calla rehmanii). All home varieties of these flowers are conditionally divided into two groups - "white" rhizomatous and "colored" tuberous. You will learn how to properly organize the care of "white" and "colored" richardia below.
♦ WHAT IS IMPORTANT!
Location and lighting.
Both rhizomatous and tuberous varieties need bright diffused lighting. Be sure to protect the plants from direct sunlight in the hot summer period, you can put a flower pot on a floor stand. Calla prefers a long daylight hours and therefore place next to the plant in the autumn-winter period artificial lighting(with intensity: 700-800 Lux). Insufficient lighting can lead to a deterioration in the decorative value of the bract-bract around the inflorescence or a complete cessation of flowering of the houseplant.
Temperature regime.
The optimum temperature for "colored" tuber varieties is 19-25°C. A slight temperature fluctuation during the day has a positive effect on growth and proper development plants. Desirable temperature regime after the flowering period for the "colored" calla - 26-28 ° C for a month (watering the plant during this period is not required).
The optimum temperature for "white" rhizomatous varieties is 17-21°C during the growing season, followed by a decrease to 11-14°C for two months after the calla has faded.
Air humidity.
"Colored" varieties feel comfortable in conditions of moderate or slightly high humidity- 50-60%. Wipe the calla leaves daily with a damp sponge.
"White" varieties like high humidity. Optimum humidity is in the range of 70-80%. For supporting high level humidity, you can place the pot in a tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles. Spray the leaves with soft water several times a day.
Watering.
"Colored" varieties should be watered with moderately warm soft water around the edge of the pot. All excess water immediately pour out of the pan to avoid stagnation of water around the roots. Water the plant only after upper layer the soil dries up completely. When the calla has faded, water for two months no more than once a week, and then stop watering completely.
"White" varieties need abundant watering. During the flowering period, the soil should be constantly moist, but drain all the water flowing into the pan to prevent rotting of the rhizome.
Earth mix and top dressing.
For "colored" varieties, you can make an earth mixture by mixing leaf earth and humus in equal parts. To this mixture add two parts of soddy soil and 1/2 part of coarse sand. Add superphosphate to the soil mixture (1 tablespoon per 3 liters of substrate).
For "white" varieties, you can use a universal soil mixture for flowering aroid plants or make it yourself at home by mixing leafy soil, humus, coarse sand in equal parts. To this mixture add two parts of soddy soil and 1/4 of clay. Add superphosphate to the soil mixture (1 tablespoon per 3 liters of substrate).
Top dressing for rhizomatous and tuberous varieties is practically the same. It is necessary to alternately add complex mineral and organic fertilizers once every five waterings along with water. With the advent of flower stalks, you can slightly acidify the soil, and during flowering, you can add crushed eggshells (for example, by passing through a coffee grinder). It is useful to combine root top dressing with foliar. But spray the plant with a fertilizer solution so as not to fall on the bract bedspreads. If calla lacks fertilizers, then the leaves rise up, lose their luster, turn yellow.
Transfer.
To plant a calla tuber of a "colored" variety, you can take a deep three-liter clay pot, on the bottom of which pour a layer of expanded clay for drainage. After the winter period, the tuber is laid out for germination in a lighted and warm place. The tuber is sprayed several times a week and after 3 weeks it is disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. The tuber is planted in a thin layer of clean sand. Earth mixture is gradually added as the tuber grows. The first few weeks after planting in a pot, the tuber is not watered.
For "white" rhizomatous varieties, we choose a not very deep pot that matches the size of the root. Drainage layer - 5-6 cm expanded clay at the bottom of the pot. Planting depth is calculated by the formula - the diameter of the rhizome multiplied by 3.
Reproduction.
Professional flower growers practice seed propagation to preserve and improve the varietal qualities of calla lilies. But lovers of indoor plants enjoy simple ways reproduction - tubers (colored varieties) and dividing the bush (white varieties). When dividing the bush, the baby (offspring) is separated from the mother plant along with part of the rhizome and transplanted into another pot.
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Fans who grow plants at home consider indoor callas the most beautiful indoor flower. It is hard not to agree with them, a huge one-leaf flower with a bright cob attracts attention, and the flower itself pleases for a whole month.
The homeland of callas is South Africa, but the modern range of this plant has spread far beyond the continent. Relatively recently, it was possible to meet such a flower in our latitudes only in swampy areas, but thanks to the work of botanists, growing calla lilies at home today is quite an ordinary event. The house calla plant appears in people's homes, not only for appearance. This flower is an accurate barometer, drops form on the leaves right before the rain. Let's take a closer look at how to care for home calla lilies.
Thanks to the hard work of botanists in the selection of this plant, today we have the opportunity to cultivate a large number of different types of domestic calla.
Calla elliotta (Calla elliottiana)- a profusely flowering flower variety, characterized by a special love for lit places and regular watering. The flower is painted in very contrasting colors: its outer part is yellow-green, and the inner part is bright yellow.
Ethiopian Calla (Calla aethiopica)- By right, this variety takes first place in popularity. Calla flowers are white with a yellow core, the only leaf of the flower is folded into a funnel and has an extension to the top. The dense leaves of this species can be up to 45 centimeters long, and the stem grows up to 1 meter.
Remanna (Calla rehmannii)- a miniature variety (up to 50 cm in height), distinguished by a bright flower color from pink to deep red. Red calla flowers served as the starting point for breeding varieties with a variegated color.
Amethyst- the choice of sophisticated people. Delicate shades inflorescences are intertwined with the aromas of sea air, creating an atmosphere of comfort and luxury. This kind of flower has become essential element women of royal blood.
These are far from all types of indoor callas; thanks to selection, new varieties appear on the market every year. Bred indoor calla lilies are distinguished by more and more colorful and sophisticated colors.
Features of caring for domestic callas
The plants of this culture are in many ways different from other indoor inhabitants, this makes a certain imprint on the care of callas. Caring for calla lilies at home is not difficult, but you need to be attentive to all the requirements.
Watering
The basis for the full growth of the plant is watering. The nature of this plant implies the presence of a large amount of water in the soil, as well as high humidity. Lack of regular watering will lead to stunted growth. Most of all, the white indoor calla loves water, whose homeland is the swampy area.
home flower calla, watered when the top layer of soil dries out by 1 centimeter for white callas and when the top layer dries out by 2-3 centimeters for colored varieties. Colored callas also like regular watering, but to a lesser extent than white ones. The remaining water in both cases is drained after 15 minutes. Water for irrigation should be at room temperature. Best of all, flower growth occurs at high humidity, by about 80%. The flower leaves are sprayed twice a day or wiped twice with a damp cloth. It is also worth putting moss or expanded clay on the pallet.
After the end of flowering, the frequency of watering is significantly reduced, and after a couple of months, watering should be completely stopped. It is impossible to immediately transfer your flower to a state of rest, it is necessary to give it time for the root to reach the desired state. The dormant period of the flower is up to three months, but this value may shift based on the conditions of the plant.
Lighting
Growing calla lilies at home should be done with sufficient lighting for the plant. Callas are very fond of light, especially in winter. With poor or incorrect lighting, the plant may not bloom, only stems may grow, colored varieties may lose their bright color. Indirect sunlight and direct morning and afternoon sun are best. direct sunlight summer sun may harm the flower.
Temperature
Regardless of the species, domestic calla lilies in a pot require maintaining the temperature within the normal range, as well as the absence of sudden changes. White varieties during the vegetative period require maintaining a temperature of + 18 ... + 20 degrees, colored varieties + 20 ... + 24. After flowering, the tubers stop watering and are kept at a temperature of 25 to 27 degrees for about 30 days, then the temperature is slowly reduced to 10 - 12 degrees. Ready tubers are placed for the winter, shifting with sawdust.
Note. A slight difference in temperature during the day and at night has a positive effect on the growth of tubers and leaves of the plant.
The soil
Calla lilies need acidified soil, approximately pH 6-6, it is very useful to add peat with sawdust to it. The following mixture is best for planting callas:
- sod land (2 parts);
- leaf ground (1 part);
- peat (1 part);
- sand (1 part).
Often, for the full growth and development of a flower, properly selected soil is not enough. Therefore, in the summer, home care involves planting a flower in open ground. An alternative to this method can be every two weeks. Before flowering, you should not overdo it with nitrogenous mixtures, when peduncles appear, urea is added, and with the beginning of flowering, eggshells are added.
Transplant and reproduction
Proper planting of callas is the key to success. Tubers are sold from January to April, when buying them, you should pay attention to elasticity, the skin should be light. Before planting, the tubers are dipped for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This procedure helps protect the tuber at an early stage from diseases and identify damaged areas. If, after dipping into potassium permanganate, defects appear, they can be carefully removed with a knife, and then treated with brilliant green.
Growing calla lilies at home will go without a hitch if you choose a wide pot, because this indoor plant loves the space given to the root system. Planting and transplanting occurs as follows: first, a hole is made, up to 5 cm deep, then a tuber is placed in it no deeper than 10 cm. Watering during this period should be treated carefully to prevent the bulb from rotting.
Experienced flower growers know how to grow callas from seeds at home. To do this, the seeds are germinated on a paper towel and, after showing signs of growth, they are planted in pots, no more than 2 seeds per pot. The soil should be chosen as normal for seedlings, watering should be done through the bottom of the pot, if the topsoil has dried out more than necessary, then you can lightly irrigate it with water from the sprayer. The appearance of shoots is a signal to transplant callas, but before being placed in new pot Existing roots should be thoroughly rinsed. The further life of calla lilies in pots follows the rules and subtleties described above.
Note. After planting, indoor calla lilies may not show up from the pot until they form root system, so do not be discouraged if home flowers have not appeared within a month.
You can propagate your homemade calla flower with seeds yourself, moreover, this process can bring unexpected results. This is due to the fact that you will have to pollinate the flower yourself and it is almost impossible to predict the final result.
A more stable method of reproduction is the division of the tuber; for this, the tubers are separated during transplantation. Considering the fact that indoor flower is such a sissy and requires a transplant after flowering, you do not need to guess and wait for the moment when it will be necessary to get the plant and separate the tubers.
Home calla diseases and care during this period
Even with proper care, callas are susceptible to various diseases.
- If your indoor calla has been attacked by aphids, it is often enough to wipe the leaves with a solution of soapy water. With a strong attack, you can use Aktellik or Bison.
- Gray rot, which affects all parts of the plant, is of a fungal nature, so the flower must be treated with various fungicides (Vitarox, Rovral).
On a note. If your calla does not bloom at home, then with a high probability you made a mistake at the transplant stage. For example, they placed too large a tuber in a pot or do not follow the temperature regime.
- Another popular problem is the difficulty with why calla leaves turn yellow. This event can be preceded by both calla disease and lack of soil nutrition, poor watering or excessive direct sunlight.
- If previous calla diseases had a certain treatment, then bacterial rot, alas, cannot be treated with anything and such a flower must be disposed of.
- Callas affected by anthracnose are distinguished by damaged leaves Brown color that need to be removed and the plant treated with fungicides.
Knowing how to care for callas at home, you can enrich any window sill with a beautiful blooming flower bed of delicate flowers.
Calla (zantedeschia) - large perennial herbaceous plant, blooming in winter or in early spring large and very elegant flowers on high straight peduncles. In nature, there are many varieties of callas, in home floriculture, mainly Zantedes Ethiopians are cultivated. In this article, we will talk about the reproduction of calla lilies, show photos of different varieties of Zantedes, and talk about how to grow a house calla in a pot to decorate your windowsill.
Coco Chanel's saying, "Modesty is the flip side of elegance," is just perfect for the Zantedeschia flower. A direct inflorescence-cob and an unfolding leaf-coverlet are extremely modest, but how harmonious! The calla flower is universal, it can be presented to a man and a woman, to a boss and a lover, it will decorate an official reception and a romantic dinner.
Numerous, sometimes very bizarre names of this plant are associated mainly with the subtleties of transcription - the Latin name of the genus zantedeschia, given in honor of the Italian botanist Giovanni Zantedeschi. Some flower growers pronounce it as “zantedechia”, others - “zantedechia”, “cantedeshia”, etc.
But there are also names that characterize external features flower; for example, the Ethiopian calla - compares the snow-white coverlet of calla lilies with a spreading wing.
Zantedeschia Ethiopian
In nature, there are eight species of herbaceous perennials, distributed mainly in South Africa, in swampy areas. In culture, the best known are the Zantedeschia Ethiopian Ethiopian (Zantedeschia aethiopica) and numerous varieties derived from this species, the so-called "white callas".
The species that gave rise to the "colored callas" - Eliot's calla (Zantedeschia elliottiana) and Rehmann's calla (Zantedeschia rehmannii) - were also selected.
Despite the name, the Ethiopian Zantedeschia (Zantedeschia aethiopica) is native to the swampy regions of South Africa.
This is a tuberous plant with large arrow-shaped bright green leaves on long petioles and white "flowers", which in essence are only a funnel-shaped coverlet, gently covering the inflorescence-cob of small yellow flowers. After pollination of flowers, the bedspread usually turns green. In indoor floriculture, this species is also good because the plant does not shed its leaves during the dormant period in the summer months. It is desirable to transplant this calla into open ground so that she can gain strength.
Zantedeschia Remanna(Zantedeschia rehmannii)- grassy perennial with a narrow funnel-shaped bedspread, the color of which comes in various shades, from lilac to burgundy.
Zantedechia Eliot(Zantedeschia elliottiana)“brought” yellow paints to breeders. Varieties of "colored callas" are characterized by smaller sizes (of the whole plant and peduncle), wide heart-shaped leaves and a period of deep dormancy in winter, when the aerial part of the plant dies off, and the tuber is removed in a cool dark place.
Popular varieties of callas and their photos
To the most popular varieties callas, allowing you to appreciate the palette of colors and the sophisticated beauty of zantedeschia, include the following:
Calla "Albomaculata"- white bedspread and light yellow cob.
Anneke- a coverlet of purple color and a bright yellow cob.
Calla variety "Black Beauty"- dark cherry, almost black bedspread with a thin scarlet "thread" around the edge.
Calla "Black Magic"- Sunny-yellow bedspread with a black spot in the depths of the pharynx.
Zantedeschia "Black Forest"- Burgundy-violet bedspread with the same ear.
Calla variety "Bolero"- crimson veil, turning into pink at the base.
Zantedeschia "Captain Rosette"- A coverlet of the most delicate pink color.
Callas "Captain Chelse"- bedspread purple with a pinkish tint and yellow edging.
Variety of zantedeschia "Mango"- the coverlet is yellow-red, as if ripening.
Calla lilies "Magestic Red"- single-color bright red coverlet.
Caring for calla zantedeschia
Zantedeschia Ethiopian, blooming in late winter, requires a lot of light, abundant watering and moist air. When caring for calla zantedeschia, it is better to use a wide pan, in which there will always be some water and spray the leaves regularly.
At the end of spring, when the plant fades, it is better to transplant the calla into the garden. This species does not shed leaves for a dormant period. It is only necessary to remove the drying old leaves and "thin out" some of the new offspring. In August, the calla is returned to the container and home. "Colored callas", blooming in summer, planted in a nutrient substrate in March, after winter storage in a refrigerator (in a fruit box) or basement and put in a bright, warm place. Until the first leaves, they are watered moderately, and after that they provide the plant with abundant moisture (both roots and leaves). After the plant has faded, watering is reduced in proportion to the remaining leaves. When they all dry out, the tuber should lie down in the soil a little more so that a good protective skin is formed; then it is dug up and put away for storage.
Unlike bulbous plants calla does not like cramped containers - the pot should be large enough, with light nutrient soil. It should be fed during the active growing season once every two weeks; at the beginning of the season - with a complex fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen, during the flowering period - with phosphorus and potassium.
Zantedechia is propagated during transplantation by separating offspring and dividing tubers (in callas, it is better to carefully break the tubers into pieces, each of which contains at least one kidney). The fracture is sprinkled with crushed coal and dried.
Home calla in a pot and her photo
Zantedeschia is a unique plant. It looks great as a tapeworm in almost any room, it will not get lost in the composition flower arrangement, will stay in the cut for a long time.
You can plant zantedeschia with other flowers - it gets along well next to loaches or ivy.
Look at the photo of callas in a pot where they are collected various plants- zantedeschia can play both a major role and a secondary one.
Of course, it is much easier to buy domestic calla in a pot already in a flowering state, but it is much “more expensive” emotionally to grow such perfection with your own hands from a tuber. Callas have always been a talisman of marital happiness.
The calla flower belongs to the Aroid family. Growing in the damp places of South America and Africa, the plant conquered with its beautiful large white and colored bedspreads on the cob inflorescences. Fresh cut flowers are often used in bridal bouquets as they vaguely resemble brides' outfits. In the article we will talk about what care for callas at home and in the garden is, how wintering is organized and the plant reproduces.
The calla inflorescence is wrapped in a beautiful veil.
The plant has light green heart-shaped leaves. Varieties with colored flowers (Richardia) can reach a height of 50 cm, and white (Zantedeschia) - even 1 meter or more. The plant is grown indoors and outdoors. Callas are tuberous and rhizome. Wintering conditions vary slightly depending on the species.
The most common types are:
- Ethiopian calla is a large plant, mostly with a white flower. It reaches a height of 1 m. This species is rhizome. All the rest are tubers.
- Calla Remanna is a plant with pink-red inflorescences and up to 50 cm high. This species is taken as the basis for growing purple, lilac callas.
- Calla Eliotta with golden yellow flowers and blooms profusely with spotted leaves. The size of the bedspread reaches 15 cm. Light-loving variety.
There are other types - calla joyful, fragrant, powerful, amethyst, but they are not so common to be found.
Growing at home
The calla plant loves bright light and regular watering, and for flowering it needs to organize a dormant period. The calla flower is very similar to calla, but it belongs to wetland plants.
Lighting and temperature
Callas need bright lighting. If there is not enough light, the plant actively grows stems, the cuttings are pulled out. It is better if the light is diffused. The flower must be protected from drafts.
Callas do not like excessive heat. In summer they are kept at a temperature of 22-25 ° C, in winter it is lowered to 12-14 degrees. White callas during the growing season need a temperature of 18-20 ° C. For the formation of leaves and tubers, plants need a difference in day and night temperatures.
Soil and transplant
callam need acidic soil. The optimal composition includes 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of leaf, 1 part of peat and 1 part of sand. Suitable ready-made substrate for flowering crops. During the initial planting of purchased tubers, they must be kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for several hours.
Calla lilies are transplanted every year after the end of the dormant period. The pots are taken shallow, with a diameter of about 15 cm. The tubers are planted with the convex side down, not buried much. To accurately calculate the required depth, the diameter of the tuber is multiplied by 3. And the optimal diameter of the tuber suitable for planting is at least 6 cm.
A drainage layer of 5 cm must be laid at the bottom of the pot. After transplanting the tuber, the temperature in the room is gradually increased. When the calla actively starts to grow (after 2-3 weeks), you can actively water and fertilize.
Watering
Barely planted, but not sprouted, the tuber is watered carefully so that it does not rot. A sprouted plant should be watered regularly, as the topsoil dries out. The soil in the pot needs to be loosened periodically. Once a month, you can add a few drops to the water for irrigation. lemon juice or vinegar to acidify the soil.
top dressing
Callas are fertilized regularly during the growing season. Liquid fertilizer (for example, "Kemira") is applied at every fifth watering. During the period of active development, more potassium-phosphate fertilizers and less nitrogen fertilizers should be applied, since they provoke the growth of greenery.
For full flowering, calla lilies need top dressing.
After the appearance of peduncles, callas are fed with urea, and during the flowering period - with infusion eggshell or potassium, 15-20 g of which is poured under each bush. When applying dressings to the leaf, they are sprayed so as not to fall on the flower cover.
Growing callas in the garden
In the open field, the requirements for care are practically the same. Callas need to be planted in a well-lit place with acidified soil. If the soil does not meet the requirements, it is dug up before planting, peat or deoxidizers are added, and complex fertilizer is applied at the rate of 30 g per square meter. m.
Callas are planted in May. Tubers are placed in holes at a depth of 5-10 cm, at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Immediately watered, after which the next time it is done only after 2 weeks. Shoots appear in a month and they are watered regularly, but moderately. The soil should be constantly slightly moist, do not dry out. If complex fertilizers were applied to the soil when planting, you can not feed the calla all year.
Callas in open ground.
Tubers, along with stems and leaves, are dug up in autumn, before the first frost. After a week, the aerial part dries up and is easily separated from the tubers. If small ones have grown next to the mother tuber, it is better to leave them in this form. Before winter storage, the tubers are soaked for half an hour in a solution of the Maxim preparation and dried.
rest period
At the end of autumn, the leaves and stems of the plant begin to turn yellow and dry out. At this time, you need to reduce the frequency of watering. If the calla grows in a pot, the tubers can not be dug up, but simply placed in a cool place for the winter. The container is kept at a temperature of 12-14 degrees for 3 months.
The tubers dug out of the open ground, after soaking in a solution of fungicides, are dried and stored in a paper bag. In the spring, they are planted in fresh potting or garden soil. Rhizome calla hibernates a little differently.
To ensure her peace, in March, reduce watering and put the pot in a cool place. The plant will shed some of the leaves, but this is normal. So it is stored for 1.5-2 months, after which it returns to its usual habitat and is watered abundantly.
Calla blossom
Callas bloom in spring and summer. The calla flower is inconspicuous, but the cob covers a large white or colored veil. Each inflorescence lasts about 2 months. You need to monitor his condition. As soon as the bedspread turns green, the flower must be cut off, preventing the seeds from ripening (unless you plan to grow calla from them). This procedure stimulates the growth of the tuber and the splendor of flowering.
Calla may not bloom due to the lack of a dormant period.
If the calla does not bloom
Calla often does not bloom due to the lack of a dormant period. Arranging a plant for 2-3 months of rest is a must. Also, the lack of flowering can be caused by other reasons:
- Poor watering. During the growing season, it needs to be increased.
- Wrong pot. When planted in a cramped container, the plant stops growing and flowering.
- Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers that promote leaf growth.
- Surface planting of the tuber. If the calla is not planted deep enough, they will actively grow side shoots, and flowering can not wait.
To stimulate flowering, it is necessary to arrange a dormant period for calla and follow the rules of care, remove excess leaves, and plant children. For lush flowering, the plant needs space.
Difficulties in growing
Both garden and potted callas are attacked by pests and diseases. They are most often attacked spider mite, aphids and whiteflies. In the fight against them, acaricides ("Sunmite", "Aktellik", "Vermitek") and insecticides ("Fitoverm", "Aktara") are effective.
Calla leaves often turn yellow. This may be due to both preparation for the rest period and errors in care. If it is not time for the plant to winter, and the leaves turn yellow, it means that it is kept in too bright light, the air is dry in the room, watering is not adjusted correctly.
Due to errors in care, calla lilies may turn yellow and dry.
Calla diseases
Due to errors in care, plant diseases also occur.
- With the defeat of gray rot, a plaque of a characteristic color appears on any part of the calla. The disease is spread by wind, through contaminated water and soil, with dense plantings. To combat it, fungicidal preparations are used.
- Root rot leads to mass wilting of leaves, the plant droops. The appearance is facilitated by an increase in humidity and temperature in the room, abundant watering. For a while, the calla should be stopped watering, if necessary, notice the wet soil on a fresh one, treat the flower with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Rovral).
- Bacterial rot is accompanied by darkening of peduncles, roots, base of leaves. Areas get wet. The diseased plant must be destroyed, since the pathogen remains in the areas until they are completely decomposed.
- Anthracnose is a disease in which round brown spots appear on calla leaves, gradually merging into one large one. Damaged parts of the plant are removed, and healthy tissues are treated with fungicides.
reproduction
Calla can be propagated by seeds and division of the tuber, rhizome. The first method is more complicated, since calla seeds give poor germination. The division of the tuber allows you to get one hundred percent result.
seed germination
Ripe seeds are soaked in a root-stimulating solution before planting. For its preparation, the preparations "Epin", "Kornevin", "Zircon" are used. The swollen seeds are left on damp gauze in a warm place and are waiting for germination.
Seeds are planted in the ground immediately after hatching. At this stage, there is a high risk of their decay, so the container is placed on wick watering. With this method, several thin cords of a material that conducts water well are inserted into the drainage holes, after which the container is filled with soil.
A container with sprouts is placed above a container of water, but so that the bottom does not touch it. It turns out that one end of the cords is in the soil, while the other is dipped into a container of water. The wick method automatically regulates soil moisture. Seedlings dive into separate glasses 2 months after germination.
Tuber division
In a white calla, the rhizome is divided into several parts so that at least one kidney remains on each. The sections are dried fresh air, sprinkle with crushed coal and plant each part in a new pot.
Calla tubers.
In the tuberous calla lilies, the subsidiaries are separated from the mother tuber. They are planted in the ground in early April, deepening by 2-3 cm. They are kept at a temperature of 22 degrees, providing enough space in the pot. The first watering is done in a week, and then they constantly monitor that the earthen lump does not dry out. Sprouted tubers can be planted in open ground in early summer.
In flower shops or greenhouses, you can buy both adult flowering callas and tubers. Price for mature plant varies depending on the variety. Callas 30 cm high cost about 1200 rubles, 40 cm - 1600 rubles. Tubers are cheaper, but they still need to be germinated and wait for the first flowering.
When choosing a plant, carefully inspect the leaves and stems - they should have a uniform color corresponding to the variety, be free of signs of damage by diseases or pests. If you buy tubers, choose dense, not sluggish ones - these can release peduncles in the year of planting.
If you properly care for calla lilies and give her time to rest every year, the plant will certainly please you with flowers.
Calla is a perennial herbaceous plant with a characteristic appearance. The home flower is distinguished by a variety of colors of bracts, unpretentiousness in care and ease of cultivation in room conditions. This made the calla very popular and loved by flower growers. The people call calla calla and aronnik.
Calla is a small plant with large leaf plates that look like arrowheads, the stems of the plant are smooth and bare. Calla peduncles are tall single-petaled. They consist of a large veil rolled up into a tube - a funnel, inside which the cob is located. Flowers may be white and colored.
Colored callas can reach a height of 50 centimeters, white ones grow up to one meter or more. Calla not so long ago took root in room conditions. Under natural conditions, calla lilies are found in South Africa, in more northern regions it grows well in reservoirs and swampy areas.
Similar plants belong to this species: Zandeksia, Calla, Aronnik. Currently, breeders have bred a large number of hybrid varieties that are distinguished by a rich color range, among which there are even black callas.
The unusual shape of the flower and dense waxy leaves were appreciated by florists who use plants to compose the most beautiful bouquets and compositions. Very often, plants are used to decorate wedding bouquets, since the appearance of the flower resembles a long Wedding Dress bride.
For home interior decoration, plants with yellow flowers of different shades, red, purple and burgundy are often used.
Calla lilies in pots look good in combination with orchids, spathiphyllum, geraniums, begonias, cyclamen, jasmine gardenia, Benjamin's ficus, dracaena, various palm trees and zamiokulkas.
Breeders offer big choice varieties that are easy to grow at home. Photos of different types are presented below.
As a rule, the following species are grown at room conditions:
It should be remembered that calla is poisonous plant, therefore, when kept at home, it should be placed further from children and pets, and when leaving and transplanting, it is advisable to protect your hands with gloves.
Caring for callas in pots at home does not present any particular difficulties, but in order for plants to develop and bloom, they need to create special conditions close to natural. Callas are unpretentious and hardy, bloom enough for a long time- three to six weeks. Flower care at room conditions consists in timely watering, feeding, maintaining optimal humidity and temperature conditions.
Lighting
Plants do not require bright light, so direct sunlight can be detrimental to the plant. Pots in room conditions are recommended to be placed in partial shade, away from direct sunlight. In winter, you need to provide additional lighting, otherwise the callas will stop blooming.
Colored callas with a lack of lighting can lose their attractive color.
To maintain color, plants require light for 12 hours a day during flowering and about 8 hours after it.
Temperature
The homeland of calla lilies is an area with a hot climate, so calla lilies need high temperature and high humidity. Optimum temperature for development and flowering is 15 - 25 degrees.
As a result of a sharp temperature drop, they stop blooming.
In hot weather, the plant can be additionally sprayed and humidified in the room.
Brings out pots of callas open air it is possible only in warm weather, in winter the plant must be kept in a well-heated room
Watering and humidification
Proper watering- this is one of the main stages in favor of potted crops. Callas need regular watering and moist soil. Colored callas, unlike white ones, are not so capricious and easily tolerate a short drought. The amount of moisture needed by plants depends on the period of growth.
The air in the room where the potted plants are located should be very humid. It is very difficult to maintain a humidity of 80-90% indoors, however, you can spray callas twice a day. In addition, it is required to wipe the leaves with a damp cloth.
Top dressing and fertilizer
As plants grow, they quickly absorb nutrients from the soil, so they need to be fed in a timely manner. It should also be remembered that the less calla lilies receive light and heat, the more they need additional nutrition with mineral fertilizers.
For top dressing, complex fertilizers should be used, which must be applied to the soil once every ten days. The most commonly used urea or eggshell infusion.
Fertilization is carried out during flowering. This must be done very carefully, as the plant is very easy to overfeed, which will lead to their death. Signs of excess fertilizer are the appearance of yellowness and drying of the edge of the leaves. Excess nitrogen fertilizer inhibits flowering. In the event of a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the leaves of plants lose their luster, become lethargic and drooping. The plant may stop growing.
Diseases and pests
The most dangerous pests for the flower are spider mites and aphids.
After acquiring a calla, you should determine if it is at rest. It usually starts in October and lasts all winter until March, which is two to six months.
The dormant period involves a certain temperature regime, watering, top dressing, which help the plant recover and gain strength after a long flowering. In cold weather, white callas grow very slowly. Their flowering period occurs in winter and spring, and the rest period falls in the summer. Colored callas completely stop growing, shed their leaves and hibernate.
Experienced flower growers do not recommend replanting flowers with a damaged or weakened root system. To plant quickly adapted to new conditions, you should use soil close to natural.
Before planting a flower in fresh soil, it is necessary gently wash the roots. This will help you see any damage. For disinfection, the roots of the plant must be immersed in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Growths and dry rot should be carefully cleaned with a knife and disinfected with green paint.
For transplantation, you can use ready-made soil mixture or cook it yourself at the rate of: one part of sand, peat and leaf humus and two parts of soddy land.
After transplant callas required large quantity water.
Not the last role is played by the capacity in which the calla will grow. Ethiopian calla prefers pots large sizes more than 20 cm in diameter. In a container small size it won't bloom. The material from which the pot is made must be porous. This will provide oxygen to the roots and allow excess moisture to leave faster.
Large pots are not required for colored callas. These plants are undemanding to space. For their cultivation, a container of three liters is quite suitable.
calla lilies breeding
At home, calla lilies are propagated by dividing the rhizome or seeds. Propagation by seeds is the most time-consuming and time-consuming process, so it is used only by breeders or experienced flower growers.
The division of the rhizome is the easiest and most convenient way to breed a flower. Roots are usually divided in autumn. You should take dense and healthy rhizomes. Separation is carried out using sharp knife or spatula.
Each part must contain enough roots and a small earthen room. Each separated rhizome is planted in a small but spacious pot. Landing should be carried out in moist soil to a depth of no more than 5 centimeters.
The division of the rhizome in autumn will allow the plant to spend the winter in a dormant state. At first, callas do not need to be watered. After 7 - 10 days, you should check that the soil is wet. Watering should be increased gradually and periodically spray the plant. Pots with new plants should not be placed on windowsills with bright direct sunlight.
Propagation of plants by seeds is quite laborious, time-consuming and does not guarantee positive result. Before planting, calla seeds should be pre-prepared by soaking them for several hours in a growth biostimulant solution, as the plants have very poor germination and a short shelf life.
Then you should prepare a small container in which a damp cloth with seeds laid out on it is placed. Top the seeds should be covered with another damp cloth. The container is placed in a warm place for 7 - 10 days for germination. When the seeds germinate, they are sown in a container with earth and kept in a warm place until shoots appear. After that, young plants can be planted in the ground.
Possible problems and difficulties
A lot of legends and beliefs are associated with calla. In some countries it is called the "flower of death". This is due to the fact that the white cover of the flower resembles a shroud that covers a yellow cob that resembles a candle. So far, in many European countries at the funeral you can see white callas.
At present, few people remember these giving, but there are people whom they stop from acquiring and maintaining this beautiful plant at home.