Furniture edges are a tape material that protects our lungs from toxic fumes when using interior items made of chipboard, MDF and chipboard. Modern technologies, which are implemented in the manufacture of furniture, allow you to minimize the use of harmful components. However, it is still better to close the ends with a special edge.
Currently, a wide variety of furniture edges are available to the consumer audience. Individual varieties differ according to the material of manufacture, the method of installation and cost. Among other things, each facing agent has its own obvious pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at the edges.
Appointment
In addition to imparting aesthetic qualities to furniture, furniture edges allow you to protect the ends of products made of chipboard, MDF, and other common materials from the harmful effects of moisture. It is through the ends into the inner layers of wood that insects, microorganisms, fungal spores penetrate, which accelerate the decomposition of materials. Furniture edges make it possible to eliminate the above manifestations.
Applications
Furniture edges are successfully used for processing the following interior items:
- countertops, kitchen and office tables;
- top covers of mobile and side pedestals;
- sides and bottom of cabinets;
- ends of boxes, pedestals.
Melamine edging
This self-adhesive furniture edge is facing material on paper backing... Products in this category are treated with melamine resin impregnations. It is the latter that endow the edges with protective qualities.
Based on the number of layers of paper used in the production, multilayer and single-layer melamine end tapes are distinguished.
If we talk about the advantages of the edges of this category, first of all, it is worth noting the widest assortment available options... Thanks to this, the consumer gets the opportunity to choose exactly that end tape, the shade and parameters of which most closely match the existing needs.
When gluing furniture, there is no need to use expensive equipment. For installation, it is enough to use an ordinary household iron. Any housewife can cope with such a task.
The disadvantage of melamine tapes is their insignificant thickness (from 4 to 6 mm). Hence the inability of the material to withstand significant mechanical stress. Due to the paper structure, such edges do not effectively protect furniture ends from moisture penetration.
PVC furniture edge
This type of end tape is much more durable and more resistant to all kinds of external influences in comparison with the previous solution. The material is produced in two versions - 2 and 4 mm thick. Thin ribbons are usually used for decorative finishing of ends that remain visible. 4mm edging is applied to hidden surfaces where there is increased risk receiving damage.
The installation of PVC edgebands requires the use of special machines. Therefore, the processing of furniture with such tapes is carried out only in the conditions of production workshops.
Advantages of PVC edgebanding:
- durability and wear resistance;
- effective protection of furniture ends from mechanical stress and moisture;
- resistance to acids, alkalis, fats and saline solutions;
- absolute incombustibility.
As for the disadvantages of polyvinyl chloride edges, here we can highlight the lack of opportunity for self-processing of furniture ends in living conditions, as well as some difficulties in obtaining perfectly smooth, glossy surfaces.
ABS edge
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is an extremely durable, highly reliable cladding material that does not contain chlorine. Therefore, the edges made from this base are widely used in the furniture industry due to their safety.
ABS has a more pliable, softer structure than PVC. The material is easy to work with, does not accumulate static electricity, and the cutting process is not hampered by the adhesion of small chips.
Advantages of ABS edges:
- preservation of the original, saturated shade throughout the entire service life;
- the presence of a perfectly smooth surface;
- absence of toxic fumes during processing and heating.
The only drawback of ABS edges is a rather impressive cost in comparison with the same melamine products and PVC facing tapes.
Acrylic edging
What does such a furniture edge look like? A photo of such products indicates their multi-layer structure. The lower part contains decorative trim or a drawing. Upper layer presented in the form Thanks to this structure, the effect of a three-dimensional image is created. It is for this reason that acrylic products are also called 3D edging.
Among the advantages of such products are high level rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress. Acrylic edges successfully protect furniture ends from scratches, bumps and chips. The main disadvantage here is the high price.
Softforming and postforming edging
Considering furniture edges, what are the materials for this purpose, one cannot fail to note the options with surface treatment by softforming and postforming. These solutions allow you to give the ends of furniture, countertops and facades absolute tightness.
In general, there is no significant difference in the characteristics of these materials. The only difference lies in the possibility of lamination of embossed surfaces that have undergone soft-formed edges.
How to glue a furniture edge?
The use of melamine edging allows you to independently process furniture ends at home. The material is set on glue, and then fixed by processing with a hot iron. Such a solution is quite acceptable when it is necessary to perform a quick, relatively cheap repair of old furniture.
The work is carried out in several stages:
- To begin with, any old one is warmed up.In addition to it, you need a knife, a fine fraction, a rag.
- The edge is trimmed with a margin of a few centimeters. The segment is applied to the furniture end, pre-treated with glue, and then warmed up with an iron.
- After melting the glue, the edging tape is pressed tightly with a rag.
- As soon as the material is securely fixed to the surface, all excess is cut off. First, the end parts are removed and only after the longitudinal ones.
- Finally, the surfaces are finished with sandpaper.
To ensure the convenience of performing work, it is advisable to find a knife with a sharp blade that will not leave burrs. During the cutting process, care must be taken so as not to remove excess.
Using the same iron, it is convenient to clean the surfaces from the remnants of the old edging tape. To do this, it is enough to thoroughly warm up the plane of the device, walk along the end and pry off the unnecessary tape with a spatula or knife.
Eventually
If the main task in the manufacture of furniture is to obtain the highest quality result, it is better to resort to factory edge trimming. When only redecorating old interior items, you can limit yourself to self-pasting surfaces with colored tapes. Fortunately, today there is a wide variety of edges on sale that imitate natural materials and are distinguished by a whole mass of original shades.
Chipboard - the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high quality inexpensive furniture... In order to hide the not too aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed from the end side - the installation of special decorative panels made of melamine, PVC or others available species synthetic plastics.
Why else are they edging furniture?
In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, furniture edging performs several more equally important tasks:
Where to trim
Furniture manufacturers often trim only visible parts of end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this looks quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can turn into certain problems - a protective edge should be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of chipboard.
If you have purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can do their own edging at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with an ordinary iron.
Do not be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will analyze in detail how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.
Edging materials
Edging of exposed furniture surfaces can be done with various decorative elements that differ in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.
How to glue the edge with an iron
Edging in production is done with a tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation at a high temperature, which ensures the formation of a thin even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove the remnants of glue and base material and grind the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.
You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with already applied adhesive composition... Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in the same way:
You can find out more about the process of gluing the edge on chipboard in the video below:
Stick the U-shaped profile on chipboard end somewhat simpler. We have already discussed this method earlier. Such an edge is much stronger than melamine, it bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.
The presence of micro-gaps between the edge of the U-profile and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow it to be glued in the kitchen or in the bathroom, therefore, edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.
Chipboard edging, of course, is best done in the factory. In production, you can order a tape from any material, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Machine edging for perfect evenness and precision decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to keep within a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine the acceptable quality and the minimum price.
You might be interested to know
This article, most likely, will not be of interest to professional furniture makers. But for amateurs who, for some reason, do not have access to a PVC edge with applied glue, but really want to revet their furniture with a PVC sheath, it will have to be "in the cashier". Moreover, you can mold not only 2 mm, but also 0.4 mm PVC edge.
Today we will talk about the process of gluing this type of edge not to traditional hot melt glue, but to contact glue.
I use glue, but you can use the traditional moment.
We cut the edge into pieces slightly larger (about 10 mm) than the length of the part to be glued (I will glue the ends in the photo). A garden pruner is great for cutting, but you can simply scratch the edge with a sharp object - it will break exactly where the scratch was.
We apply glue to the part (some adhesives imply application to both glued surfaces - read the instructions).
Then we turn the part over and lay it on the edge, pressing it to a flat surface.
Now the part must be fixed before the glue dries.
For this, you can use specialized edge clamps. I use them - they are screwed onto regular F-shaped ones.
It is better to press through a wooden block for a more even distribution of pressure.
The second option is to use special clamps. I made one out of a couple of pieces of plywood and hairpins.
After the glue has dried, we release the parts from the clamps and cut the ends. This can be done either with the same pruning shears or again by scratching and breaking off.
In both cases, you get such a cut, which sometimes you have to finish a little with a fine sandpaper on a block.
Now let's move on to removing the overhangs from the edges.
We glue the edge on the chipboard
For a 0.4 mm edge, a knife or ruler is sufficient (similar to melamine). For a 2 mm edge, an edge router is required.
Curly () cutter, walking along the edge with a bearing, cuts off its protruding part.
The result is a slightly rough cut that needs to be polished.
To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the edge with a piece of felt. Warming up, it evens out roughness.
As a result, such an even edge turns out to be no worse than on professional equipment.
Although more expensive and longer. The technique, of course, is handicraft, but it has the right to life.
Posted in: Practical part.
Tagged: chipboard end
Decoration, processing, sealing of chipboard edges. Edging, edge, butt, finishing. Close up, arrange, process, finish
How to beautifully seal the edge of the chipboard? Finishing the end face of a polished board, processing a laminated edge. Chipboard edgebanding techniques. (10+)
Chipboard end decoration
Chipboard edging is necessary in the manufacture of furniture. We bring to your attention materials for making furniture with your own hands.
Chipboard edge structure
Chipboard consists of sawdust mixed with glue and compressed. Moreover, the process of pressing and drying the glue is organized in such a way as to obtain dense surfaces and a rather rotten middle. This is done so that the chipboard is springy and does not break. If the entire array of a sheet is made dense, then the sheet will be pricked from a very slight deformation.
We usually do not contact internal structure chipboard sheet. It is fenced off from us by dense surfaces and a laminated coating (if the chipboard is laminated). But the butt reveals this charm to us. Our goal is to close it from the eyes of those who will admire our product.
In addition to aesthetic, there are several more reasons why it is necessary to close the chipboard end, even in places that are inaccessible to the eye. Moisture. Particleboard is very sensitive to moisture, even to a small amount of moisture absorbed from the air. The surfaces of laminated chipboard do not allow moisture to pass through, the surface of polished chipboard is usually painted and also does not allow moisture to pass through. The edge should also be moisture-proof. Mushrooms. Microorganisms and insects that decompose wood can penetrate through the end of the slab. Harmful substances. The harmful substances contained in the glue and the sawdust themselves, from which the chipboard is made, do not penetrate the laminated or painted surface, but will enter the room through the end.
Edging options, chipboard edge decoration
The options for processing the end (edging) depend, first of all, on how the sheet itself will be finished. If the sheet is laminated, and it is planned to use its laminated surface completely, that is, not to paint or cover with anything, then on the visible edges it is necessary to glue the edge tape corresponding to the type of the laminated surface, and fill in the hidden edges and glue it with a construction bandage. If the sheet is laminated or sanded, and it is planned to paint it, then the sheet itself must be primed, its edges must be puttied, sealed with a construction bandage going into the plane of the sheet, the bandage must be putty and painted.
End face of laminated chipboard
Visible end
When cutting such a chipboard, you need to be very careful, use a sawing tool that leaves an even edge. Laminating chipboard when cutting is very fond of crumbling and chipping. If this happens, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. I don't know how to beautifully fix such a chip. You will either have to put up with it, or saw off new blank... Next, I recommend filling the edge. Many people glue the edging tape immediately to the sawn edge, but I tried this and refused it. The tape does not adhere well to such a surface. I putty the edge with acrylic universal filler. After drying, skin with medium grain sandpaper. I do this very carefully so as not to chip the laminate with chipboard. Then I stick the tape on the leveled surface.
I will dwell on the types of ribbons - edges. Usually it is paper (in the generalized sense of the word 'paper') tape and plastic. The paper tape is sold with hot melt adhesive already applied. It is glued with an iron. I will not dwell on this process in detail, there are enough materials on this topic on the Internet. You need to pay attention to the quality of the tape and glue. If the tape subsequently lags behind, then it can be glued with ordinary glue, this will not be noticeable. The plastic tape is glued with glue. The adhesive may already be applied to the plastic tape and covered with a paper backing strip. This is a bad case. Such glue adheres very poorly. Do not buy plastic edging with adhesive already applied.
What kind of glue to glue? It is better to use the adhesive recommended by the edgebanding manufacturer. But, note, it is worth making sure that there is a solvent for this glue that allows you to remove excess glue and not damage the plastic border and the coating of the chipboard sheet itself. Then it will be convenient for you.
How to glue the edge on chipboard and PVC
According to the instructions for the glue, you will glue the edge, and remove the protruding glue with a swab moistened with the specified solvent. Difficulties can arise if the adhesive dissolves only with those solvents that dissolve the plastic. It is impossible to remove excess glue with such a solvent, such glue is not suitable for us.
Decoration of the invisible end
We put it on. Skin with medium grain size. Carefully so as not to chip, as in the previous case. In principle, we can stop at this. but better with glue PVA glue a strip of construction bandage to the filled end face. It (bandage) will prevent the putty from splitting and spilling. Usually the bandage is slightly wider than the edge. We glue the bandage so that the edge is in the middle of it. When the glue is dry sharp knife, carefully, so as not to damage the laminated chipboard, remove the excess bandage.
Chipboard end for painting
In this case, the cut can be carried out without much fear, since chips and defects can be easily corrected with a putty. If we work with laminated chipboard, but still we want to paint it, then we apply a primer to the whole product. Soil GF-021 or Otex from Tikkurila is suitable. If polished chipboard is used, then priming is not necessary, although it is desirable. We putty the butt. I use a fine filler acrylic filler. Skins. We should get a smooth rectangular edge. Sometimes this requires several iterations of sanding - putty. When the edge suits us, it needs to be fixed, otherwise it will break off or crack. Putty - the material is not very durable and reliable. We glue the edge with a construction bandage 4 - 5 cm wider than the butt end. We use PVA glue. We bend the bandage so that it sticks to the end of the chipboard and goes onto the upper and lower planes. See picture. After the glue has dried, putty the building bandage with a fine-dispersed acrylic filler. Usually one putty is used for all these jobs. We especially pay attention to the strip where the bandage ends and the chipboard itself begins. Here it is necessary to putty especially carefully so that after sanding and painting the transition is absolutely not noticeable. We dry the putty, skin with fine sandpaper, paint.
Despite the monstrous view on the diagram on an enlarged scale, in reality, the presence of a bandage and putty on the end of the chipboard, if everything is done correctly, is completely invisible.
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PVC furniture edge
Furniture edge PVC - a narrow strip of polyvinyl chloride, which is used for pasting laminated chipboard ends. It not only protects chipboard from damage, but is also a decorative element.
Melamine edging is also widely used in furniture production. But since it is made from paper impregnated with saline solution, it has a number of disadvantages. Among them are small thickness, fragility and susceptibility to mechanical damage. That is why many furniture and home furnishing manufacturers prefer PVC tape.
PVC edgebanding has the following advantages:
- high level of strength;
- reliable protection against chips, moisture, which allows you to increase the service life of products;
- high resistance to chemical compositions, ultraviolet radiation, ignition;
- relatively low cost.
The PVC edge is a narrow tape made of PVC. Edging tape is an elegant addition to laminated chipboard furniture structures. It protects products from physical, chemical and biological damage, while adding elegance to furniture, whether it be a tabletop, a cabinet or any other product. It is enough to paste over the ends of the furniture to make it look finished. PVC edgeband can work wonders even with ordinary furniture, endowing it with notes of sophistication and sophistication. There is a huge variety of colors, shades, decor and textures, so you can use this decorative element to any furniture. In addition, the edging material will add furniture performance characteristics protecting furniture from moisture and reducing resin evaporation.
Furniture edge is an easy-to-use and very practical decorative element that facilitates the use of laminated chipboard furniture.
High-quality edge banding gives furniture products durability, reliability and strength. The tape is easy to clean as it is moisture resistant. The PVC Facing Edge is additionally coated with acrylic resin so that it is not exposed to any stress.
Several types of tapes are used in the production of furniture and components on an industrial scale, including ABS, adhesive-based edging tape and PVC. When it comes to exclusive designer furniture or premium class furniture, original edging materials are used, including aluminum edging, high gloss, 3D edging, etc.
PVC products made in China are rightfully considered one of the best edging tapes. This edging material is distinguished by its special aesthetics and functionality, as well as a long service life.
China PVC edging is manufactured in accordance with the latest achievements and in accordance with all sanitary and hygienic standards. China furniture edgeband is considered the best option for chipboard furniture and office or home decoration.
Our company offers a wide range of PVC edgebands different texture and colors. Based on your choice, we will offer you the glue that most reliably attaches the edging material to the furniture. Of course, the issue of the accuracy of furniture decoration will directly depend on the quality of the equipment and the qualifications of the staff. If you want to choose a unique stone surface or a classic wood texture, we will help you choose the required edge banding option.
Pasting with a plastic edge on the ends of a chipboard.
You just have to specify the texture, decor and color of the material, in accordance with your taste preferences. You can literally transform the furniture in your home with the edge banding tape. The products, like the technology of their production, meet the highest standards of quality, safety and environmental friendliness.
We offer you a wide range of PVC edgebands at an attractive price.
Having pasted the edge of the chipboard with melamine edge, do not doubt that the processed surface will look worse than pasting the edge on a low-quality machine - if you glue the edge correctly, in accordance with the algorithm, the result is brilliant.
What is the edge glued to?
- To parts in contact with the floor.
- Elements that will be subjected to mechanical stress in the future.
- TO internal details, for example, parts drawers chest of drawers or bedside tables, laminated plates.
What you need for edgebanding
- Iron.
- A cutter knife or a stationery knife, a necessary thing, can be used both when collecting furniture and when collecting various elements, for example, a mosquito net.
- A piece of felt or a damp piece of cloth - a cloth.
- Sandpaper, or even better - a bar covered with sandpaper, will be more convenient to work with.
- Parts holder or vise.
- The edge itself.
How is the preparation for pasting the edge
So that the final result of your work looks impeccable and looks quite aesthetically pleasing when gluing the edge, a good iron should be used, preferably Teflon as the basis of the surface. Make sure that the ironing surface of the iron is clean - if there is any dirt, it must be removed. If you picked up this tool you can start pasting for the example of the shelves of the wardrobe.
For the most convenient work, do not use ordinary knives, a cutter is ideal. If you do not have such a knife, then you need to find an old knife blade and construct a cutter from it yourself.
You can make a block yourself - you need to take even an ordinary piece of chipboard and paste over it with sandpaper on one side.
A melamine edge with an already prepared layer of glue on it is on sale, but if you are "lucky" to purchase an edge without an adhesive coating, you need to apply glue on it yourself.
The holder can also be easily constructed independently from the remnants of chipboard, for this you need to take two small pieces of material and stuff them at a short distance from each other perpendicular to the base.
The process of pasting the edgebanding is carried out in stages.
- After unwinding the coil, attach it to the end of the part, leaving a little edge for trimming.
How to glue PVC edge on chipboard at home
In the standard, the width of the edge is 2.1 cm, and the chipboard, as a rule, has a width of 1.6-1.8 cm, so there will also be a margin for trimming and rubbing the edges. In order not to do unnecessary work and not to cut the edge lengthwise from two edges, it is better to align it on one side, and then cut off the excess only on the other side.
- After attaching the edge to the front, start heating and ironing it with an iron. Special attention it is worth paying to the edges of the ends - there it is necessary to iron it most carefully.
- Details of small length are ironed entirely and immediately, while longer sections should be heated and ironed in parts - in sections of 40 centimeters. The end is cooled with felt or a damp cloth.
- Based on the quality of the tape used, the heating temperature of the iron is selected and regulated. If everything is set correctly, then the iron glides directly over the surface, does not cling to anything or scratch the edge. If the heating is correct, then the adhesive under the edge will spread evenly. And if you overdo it too much and overheat the edge, then bubbles will go and the edge will have to be removed and thrown away.
- If you nevertheless spoil some area, then in order to remove the spoiled material, you need to heat it up again and remove it with a knife. After cleaning the surface, you can start gluing again.
- If the edge is of high quality, then it will stick only after it has completely cooled down. Having found that the edge has completely cooled down, you can start trimming the excess. You can trim correctly by bending the edge, rubbing it with a bar until a white chamfer is visible. Having seen the backing, you can already cut off unnecessary material.
- After trimming, all edges are carefully and thoroughly rubbed with a bar with sandpaper. At this stage, the gluing of the melamine edgebanding is finished. And you can safely start installing the handles.
Today we will analyze a more professional technique for gluing an end decorative edge. This is a hot melt glue with a hair dryer. Naturally, not possessing professional equipment, we will disassemble in an amateur manner, accessible to any garage master.
For work, we need a 2 mm PVC edge with hot glue applied to it - it is applied with a special roller in the form of a mesh.
It can be purchased at furniture stores footage. If the store does not sell an edge with an applied adhesive layer, then it can be applied in furniture shops for an additional fee (as a rule, it does not exceed 5 rubles per running meter).
- In addition to the edge itself, we need a thermal gun (aka an industrial hair dryer),
- as well as an edge milling cutter with a molding shaped milling cutter with a ball bearing installed in it.
- Additional elements are a cloth glove (one is enough) and a felt block.
Let's move on to considering the technique itself. It is better to set the hair dryer to medium values (about 300-400 degrees Celsius).
We fix the workpiece on the workbench (horizontally if it is large and vertically in the clamp if it is small). First, warm up the end of the edge band - it should soften a little and acquire elasticity.
While the glue has not hardened, we apply the heated edge to the end of the workpiece. Press the attached edge with a felt block tightly to the part for 10-20 seconds until the glue cools.
Then, directing the flow of hot air into the gap between the part and the edge band, we warm up the last one, by 10-15 centimeters in length,
after which we put aside the hairdryer, take a bar and roll the heated tape with sliding movements.
This manipulation is repeated over and over again. In this case, it is not worth overheating the edge (it should not acquire pronounced plastic properties). If only to a minimal extent - the edge begins to reach towards the workpiece - then it’s enough to warm up, you need to press it. This moment comes with experience.
It is important not only not to overheat, but also not to underheat. In the first case, the edge will acquire excessive plasticity and can move in waves. In the second case, it simply does not stick.
Now we move on to the next stage, which is rather difficult at first, - this is the processing or pasting of the corner radius (and the outer one is easier to glue than the inner one). I described, >>.
In this case, the edge must be just overheated so that it can be easily molded along the profile to be pasted.
After warming up, when the edge has softened, quickly press the edge to the surface, trying to come along the entire corner.
At first, it may not work, that is, you must first practice.
After you have glued the entire edge tape, we proceed to remove excess, that is, overhangs. From the ends, you can cut it off with a pruner or simply break it off, having previously scratched it with a sharp object (I usually use 1 method).
The overhangs on the edges are removed with a special edge router.
It is quite problematic to do this manually, due to the large thickness of the edge. The cutter cuts off the excess while at the same time rounding off the remaining edge. 
Excess glue, which is often not removed with a cutter, can be scraped off with a simple metal ruler.
Often, after removing the overhangs, prominent places of "non-gluing".
Personally, I usually get them at the corners. How to deal with them? Again, we take up the hair dryer and warm up the non-glued area from the outside, trying to blow a stream of air into the slot.
Warm up for 5-6 seconds, put the hair dryer aside and press the area tightly with a felt bar to the surface of the part for 20-30 seconds.
This is usually enough to glue the edge and remove the gap.
Now all that remains is to polish the milled edge, which has a rough structure.
To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the cut edge of the edge.
At the same time, the felt heats up a little, melts the PVC, which smooths out all the irregularities.
And photo finished work(this will be a table top with a rounded corner).
This technique is used even in small professional workshops when processing radius parts, because large stationary automatic edging machines, as a rule, do not have the ability to stick the edge on the curvatures, and not everyone considers it profitable to purchase small specialized units (at least in a furniture workshop, with with whom I cooperate, this is exactly the case).
You will learn about the types of edges, as well as the methods of gluing them and how to glue the edge with an iron and a hairdryer from this article.
- The most common type is melamine edging with paper-based glue... It is used for finishing the interior of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the highest quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
- T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into the slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. You will need a milling machine for installation.
- PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of the furniture from damage, is durable, resistant to moisture. To glue the PVC piping, you will need an edging machine, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
- ABS plastic is an eco-friendly chlorine-free option. Prized for its resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.
All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.
Average cost of a profile for one running meter:
- PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
- PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
- Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.
In our country, products from the Rehau company are actively used, which offers big choice color solutions, as well as different belt widths from 15 to 45 mm.
To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that calculate how much materials are required for gluing the edges.
PVC edge - how to glue step by step at home
For work you will need:
- iron or construction hair dryer,
- and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
- hard roller,
- newspaper or paper sheet
The material is heated to make the glue sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.
- The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
- Next, the iron is again heated through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
- The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it adheres along its entire length.
- Bonding with a hot air gun. Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the glue side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired area, clamped and gently smoothed.
- Bonding with Moment glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the end is checked manually, sawdust, debris, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the section is rolled so that the glue sets faster.
How to remove excess material
If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the site and the profile is clamped using a roller or manually.
As usual PVC width the edges are taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess around the edges. To do this, use an ordinary clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge is left that coincides in width with the section.
After everything is stuck, it remains to process the irregularities with sandpaper.
Melamine edging is the best option for home use when refurbishment needs to be done old furniture with minimal costs. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high quality material.
Consider how to glue an edge on a chipboard worktop at home.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ON THE TOPIC
For work, you will need the following materials:
- skin,
- sharpened jamb knife,
- wallpaper roller,
- melamine edging,
- construction hair dryer or iron.
- select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensure proper melting of the glue,
- sand the edges of the chipboard for gluing, eliminate irregularities,
- measure the profile,
- heat it up with an iron and press it tightly against the area with a roller (if there is no glue layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
- cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.
It is necessary to trim at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it will remain to process the edges with a sandpaper so that there are no burrs and irregularities left.
If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, a stain will help to correct the difference.
In the case when the part has complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by a complex relief, the first time it is not always possible to glue the material evenly. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.
Types of edge glue
Professionals furniture production actively use hot melt adhesives for edgebanding... They are convenient if the production will be delivered to the flow, and both high quality of the result and fast speed are required.
Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means they become very elastic when heated and harden quickly when cooled. Responsible for these properties is the ethylene-vinyl acetate polymer included in the adhesive. The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or manual guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.
- In a domestic environment, PVC glue is often used, which adheres well paper materials to different surfaces... Homogeneous without lumps light color the mass adheres well to surfaces, but is afraid of moisture. No application required additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for use by non-professional craftsmen.
- Fit universal adhesives Moment and 88-Lux, which will reliably glue the material to the chipboard and PVC surfaces. After 3-4 hours, the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe, and affordable.
- From professional furniture glue for the edging, it is worth mentioning the products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot-melt adhesives for cladding, for soft-forming material (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.
In this article, we will consider the simplest option - this is gluing a 2 mm edge with pre-applied hot melt glue. You can order such an edge either from the supplier or from the workshop. The addition to its cost will be 2-5 rubles per square meter.
To glue such an edge, we need a technical hair dryer (thermal gun), a milling cutter (preferably an edging), a molding cutter, a sharp knife, a file and a HB glove.
We fix the part vertically or horizontally - as you prefer (it is advisable to fix it with clamps).
First, warm up the tip (about 5 cm) of the edge well so that the glue melts and the edge itself becomes soft.
We apply the edge and, warming up the glue with a stream of air, together with the end of the part, smooth the edge with a gloved hand. Warm up a section of about 10 cm long, put the hair dryer aside and iron the section more carefully, and so on every time. The main thing here is not to overheat the edge (the overheated edge bends easily - just by itself - and in this case, the places of bends in the form of waves will remain visible). 
We look at the glue seam again, we warm up the non-glued places with a hairdryer again (and it is necessary to warm it from the front side, warming up the entire edge) and smooth it until it fits completely.
Moving on to cutting off the overhangs. If you have an edge router, then everything is fine, if only a universal manual one, then it will require revision, because do not put it on the edge of the workpiece - the overhang interferes.
I screwed a piece of chipboard onto the sole, which made it possible to raise the sole on one side.
Then, of course, I made myself a normal edge cutter - that's what I will use in the lesson.
Practice scrapping first to fine-tune the cutter cut, otherwise you risk damaging your laminate. Like this, for example: 
A milling cutter with a molding copy milling cutter (radius of rounding 3 mm), carefully, without swinging, move along the face of the workpiece, cutting off excess edges.
We turn it over to the other side and repeat all the manipulations for smoothing the jambs and cutting off the overhangs.
We cut off the remnants from the ends as follows: we carry out with pressure with a sharp knife along the edge, forming a scratch. We lay the workpiece on the edge of the table along the scratch line, and then break it off with a downward movement.
Or we saw off a piece from the end hacksaw blade(the main thing here is not to scratch the adjacent edge, which is perpendicular to the sawn off).
We clean up irregularities and roughness with a file.
You should end up with something similar. For clarity, a straight (short) piece of the edge was glued on the machine, and a long one (which covers the bend) - by hand. The difference is almost invisible.
