A wooden staircase with your own hands is made quite simply. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of building a wooden structure so that you do not make mistakes in the process.
All work on the manufacture of stairs can be divided into two main stages:
- Design;
- Construction assembly.
Design
A staircase is a rather complex structure, so it is simply impossible to make it without a detailed project, especially for a beginner. The design process can be broken down into three main steps:
Step 1: Determining the type of structure
Everything existing species stairs can be divided into two types:
- Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only winders located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
Keep in mind that such stairs are inconvenient to use, and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend beginners to take on the construction of a spiral staircase;
- Marching. These stairs have smooth marches (flights of stairs). They are more comfortable and safer to use. However, keep in mind that mid-flight stairs take up more space in the room.
Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subspecies:
- Single-march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
- Rotary with winder steps. They can have several flights of stairs, between which there are turning (winder steps);
- Rotary with landings. Flat platforms are installed between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;
- "Duck step". The peculiarity of these stairs is the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, only one foot can stand on a step, hence their name.
Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the angle of inclination can exceed 40-45 degrees.
The type of construction should be chosen depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If there is not enough space, you can make a ladder like " duck step”, which requires a minimum of ground floor floor space. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make a turning staircase with marching platforms.
Stage 2: calculate the stairs
On the this stage you need to decide on such important parameters of the stairs as:
- Number of treads;
- riser height;
- The angle of the stairs;
- March length;
- The area that the stairs will occupy on the first floor.
Any staircase should be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:
- Step sizes. The height cannot be made more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The width of the tread should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
Keep in mind that all steps must be the same height and width, otherwise the stairs will turn out to be traumatic; - The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs with a platform.
In addition, it is desirable that the march has an odd number of steps, so that a person ends the descent or ascent with the same foot with which he began to move up the stairs; - March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
- Railing height. At least 90 cm.
Calculation of the number of steps. Before proceeding with the calculation of the stairs, you need to measure the height between floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. the height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.
Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.
To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be any within 160-190 mm. For example, let's take a height of 180 mm, in which case we will have the number of steps 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.
Since we need an even amount, we will correct the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.
Tread width calculation. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable ladder - a + b = 470 mm, where:
- a - riser height;
- b - tread width.
From this formula we get the width of the tread 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is well within the acceptable range.
March length calculation. Now it remains to calculate only the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection on the floor. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the tread by the number of steps - 29.4x17 \u003d 499.8 ~ 5 m.
Since the stairs will turn out to be quite long, it is advisable to make it rotary, consisting of two marches. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the platform, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.
The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. at least 90-100 cm.
If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs to the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within the acceptable range.
Calculation of the length of the kosour or bowstring. The calculation of the kosour is carried out according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs in the square + the height of the stairs in the square = the length of the kosour in the square.
Stage 3: draw up a drawing
Now you need to prepare a drawing according to which you will make the details of the stairs. To do this, first consider the details that the design of a wooden staircase includes:
- Kosour. Bearing beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the kosour takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;
- Bowstring. It is also a carrier beam. It differs from the kosour by the absence of cutouts for the steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam by the butt.
To attach the treads to the bowstring, recesses are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;
- Steps. They consist of two elements - tread (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). I must say that the design of a wooden staircase may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.
What is the best way to make a ladder - on stringers or bowstrings? The design on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cutouts for the steps, however, the ladder on the stringers is able to withstand a large load.
Making stairs
Consider how a ladder is made of wood with your own hands. This process can be conditionally divided into several stages:
Stage 1: preparation of stringers
The work is done like this:
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Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm. |
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Beam preparation. Cut boards 40x300 mm along the length of the stringer according to the design calculations. |
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Kosour markup. For marking, use a construction square. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers, as shown in the photo. Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and stringer must match the angle of inclination. In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you can perform the following steps:
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Cutting out the kosour. Carefully cut out the cuts with a hacksaw, jigsaw or other tool. In the same way, make all the other stringers. |
To make paired kosours exactly the same, use the first kosour as a template - attach it to the board and circle it with a pencil.
Stage 2: frame assembly
Now we need to make the remaining elements of the ladder frame, and install them. The work is done like this:
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Materials. In addition to the kosour for assembly, you will need:
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Mounting the kosour to the wall:
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Support post installation:
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Column marking. Mark on the pole the junction of the second stringer. To do this, you can use a laser or water level. |
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Installation of the second stringer:
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Installation of the stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span. |
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Site frame assembly:
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This completes the installation of the frame. If your stairs are straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.
Stage 3: cladding stairs
Sheathing stairs is carried out as follows:
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Materials. At this stage we will need:
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Marking steps and treads:
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Cutting details. Use a jigsaw or other tool for this purpose. In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards for sheathing the landing.
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Hole drilling:
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Processing the joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this. |
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Installation of steps and risers. Fasten the parts with self-tapping screws. |
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Sheathing the space under the stairs:
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Upper flight lining:
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Stage 4. railing installation
Now you can start installing the railing. It is more expedient to buy ready-made balusters and handrails, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, their price is small - the cost of figured pine balusters starts at an average of 100 rubles apiece.
The installation process of balusters and railings looks like this:
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Materials. To equip the railing you will need:
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Installation of dowels for balusters:
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Installation of balusters. The instruction looks like this:
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Preparing balusters for handrail installation. trim upper part columns at an angle equal to the angle of inclination of the flight of stairs. |
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Fastening handrails to the outer posts:
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Fastening handrails to intermediate balusters.
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The process of manufacturing a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that's left is to do the finishing touches.
Stage 5: finishing
As a rule, in the process of finishing, wooden stairs are varnished, stained or impregnated with their own hands. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:
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Materials. For finishing you will need:
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Puttying:
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Sanding:
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Dust removal. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth. |
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Varnishing:
It is desirable to cover a wooden staircase with a matte varnish or impregnation. Covered with a glossy varnish can be slippery and unsafe to move around. |
As you can see, stairs to the second floor are made quite simply, so for their manufacture it is enough to have basic woodworking skills.
Output
We examined the process of making stairs with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can take on the job yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of work - write comments, and I will be happy to help you.
Without following the rules and without making safety calculations, a staircase with your own hands will be built at least unsuccessfully, it will require global alterations and costly improvements. To exclude unsuccessful attempts, it is better to initially do everything, focusing on building codes.
The simplest solution will be modular - they only need to be assembled from complete parts, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions. Ready-made kits are supplied for the assembly of marching and propeller variants, equipped with a full set of mounting and structural components.
The spiral modular staircase is assembled according to the principle children's constructor their components fully prepared for installation
Material Selection Arguments
For the construction of a welded metal staircase, the skills of a welder and an inverter apparatus are required. You can learn the basics of welding on your own, but for the construction of a presentable structure, the initial course is not enough. The pouring of a concrete structure is often determined by operating conditions. Steps made of concrete equip two, three-story mansions made of bricks, foam blocks, gas silicate panels. Also, cold concrete system still have to be sheathed with wood or veneered with other material. As a result, it turns out that you have to do double work.
construction concrete stairs from wooden paneling in terms of financial and labor costs, it is equivalent to the manufacture of two separate structures
Attention. In two-three-storey cottages according to the requirements fire safety it is necessary to install concrete or metal flights of stairs to guarantee evacuation from the upper floors in case of fire.
Those who need a staircase to the attic should prefer wood. The material is light, easy to process, will not push through the floors.
Advice. For the arrangement of new low-rise wooden buildings, stepped systems made of wood are recommended due to shrinkage. It is difficult to predict how much the ceiling height will decrease, and what the difference will be between concrete or metal staircase and overlay.
Probable mistakes made in the manufacture of a wooden structure will be easier to correct.
The most simple design
Those wishing to make a staircase on their own, no one will advise starting with a complex screw type. If the limited dimensions of the room do not allow you to choose a simple flat option, it is better to purchase ready kit modules or contact the builders.
The gently sloping "means of interfloor communication" will take up a lot of space, but the ascent and especially the descent along it will be the most comfortable. It is optimal that the angle of inclination does not exceed 37º. An inclination of 45º automatically translates the design into the category of attachments. You will need to go down on it with your back forward. The steepness of 40º is also not very convenient for descent.
Gentle stairs with an angle of inclination of no more than 37 degrees - the most comfortable
If there is a question of building on a limited area, a two-flight structure with a landing or winder steps should be preferred.
Attention. Between straight marches directed towards each other, the distance should be at least 100 mm.
Between marches going "towards" each other, it is necessary to leave a distance
The steps can be supported on load-bearing stringer beams, can be attached to the wall with bolts, attached to two side bowstrings. Consider an example of construction with stringers.
We design a staircase with our own hands
Regardless of the presence or absence of experience, any master should start with calculations and design. The project focuses on security and the creation better conditions for moving.
Design and project requirements
- The design must withstand a load exceeding the average weight of a person.
- It must be equipped with fences, the location of which must be taken into account at the stage of project creation.
- Fences are equipped with handrails and balusters, the distance between adjacent balusters should be smaller size child's head.
Note. In order to prevent situations that threaten users, it is possible to protect the stairs not with balusters, but with a solid "canvas" of plexiglass or mesh if there are small children in the house.
- The height of the structure is calculated according to the finishing floors of both floors or according to their estimated marks.
- According to the standards, the sum of the width of the tread and the corresponding height of the riser must exceed 50 cm (minor deviations are possible). Recommended height within 14-17 cm, tread width 25-32 cm for full foot support.
- Passage height 1.9-2.0 m. The size depends on the height of users, calculated taking into account the height of the tallest family member + 5 cm.
- Comfortable width internal stairs consider the distance between the wall and the handrail or between two handrails 0.90 - 1.00 m.
The principle of calculating steps is based on a simple formula
Design is the most critical stage. Mistakes made in the process will turn construction into a waste of time, effort and money. Projects are carried out by analogy, regardless of the material chosen, both the rules and calculations are identical.
Prepare the necessary material
We finally decided that we were building a staircase from lumber. For the manufacture of stringers, a pine board with a width of 40 mm is suitable. Riser, which you can refuse to install, can also be made from conifers. It is optimal if the treads are made of hardwood.
Advice. It is better to buy ready-made steps made of glued wood, created like glued beams from bars with different directions of fibers. They will not deform, dry out, crack.
Let's make braids right
According to the designed dimensions of the step, we draw a pattern. Then we will mark the boards and cut out peculiar teeth on it with an electric jigsaw. Those who wanted to know how to build a staircase with their own hands without mistakes and alterations probably guessed that all elements must be symmetrical. This means that the first sawn beam with teeth will serve as a template for the manufacture of the second, and if the width of the stairs is 1.20 or 1.50 m, then the third.
You need to start with the manufacture of stringers, for the production of which you need a template with the exact dimensions of the step, after which the teeth are cut in the beam to install the steps
Installation of step elements
We fasten the treads and risers to the stringers with nails and self-tapping screws. The master, who decides not to use ready-made factory components, will also need to cut out these elements according to patterns made especially for them.
The tread can be made up of two boards
A structure is considered more reliable, on the supporting beams of which simple triangular or more complex fillies are first installed. For their installation and fastening, dowels and pre-made grooves are required.
Scheme: how to make a ladder with more reliable figured wooden fillies
Install balusters and railings
To install each baluster, we will use an anchor or a hairpin. First, according to the markup, we “put” the hairpin on the glue with the end, which then penetrates through the tread into the stringer, then we twist it and screw the baluster onto the free end. In the same way, fence posts are installed, between which balusters are placed. At the end, the pillars and balusters are equipped with handrails.
Guardrail installations
Video information: common mistakes
Before you get started, you should watch videos with a list and description of common errors.
The process of hand-made construction of stairs cannot be classified as the simplest, but it is not a super-difficult task either. The main snag in competent design. And then pedantry and accuracy should lead the performer, and everything will surely work out.
Modern cottages and private houses suggest the presence of 2 or more floors, and the topmost of them can be both residential and non-residential. living quarters. Either way, you need a ladder.
Independently make a reliable interfloor or attic stairs from concrete or metal structures is quite difficult, which cannot be said about wood.
Even a novice master can assemble it.
From this article you will learn what types of wooden stairs are, what are their differences, what material is used to make spans. In addition, each of you will be able to make a wooden staircase to the second floor yourself - in the article we will give approximate calculations and photos.
Types and types of structures
There are several species wooden staircase designs
- Marching stairs. Easy to manufacture and convenient to use, but require a large area of the room. The staircase of the march structure can be placed along the wall or mounted in the middle of the room;
- . Usually located in a limited space. Because throughput construction is very small, it is better to navigate through it one at a time. A spiral staircase (if you build it yourself) will cost much less than other structures, and will last about the same;
- Combined stairs. Can be used in the construction of a private house, if the layout allows. Most often, mid-flight stairs with a screw element are made.
Construction types wooden stairs distinguish the following:
- stairs on the bolts- steps are attached to huge hinged bolts (balusters);
- stairs on bowstrings- a flight of stairs is mounted to a beam with special cutouts on the inside end-to-end;
- stairs on kosoura. Kosour - an inclined beam, on top of which steps are attached.
What kind of wood can be used to make stairs
Material selection for depends on the preferences of the owner of the house or apartment, the characteristics of the tree and the cost of it. Various breeds have their advantages and disadvantages:
- Maple. The ladder from this breed will turn out to be the strongest and most durable. Color - light brown. The disadvantage of maple stairs is the high price.
- Larch. The color of the structure is golden yellow or dark yellow with brown streaks. Fine endures impacts external factors. The larch staircase will turn out to be strong and solid.
- Oak. The peculiarity of oak stairs is that the older they are, the darker the shade.
- Spruce. The most popular material due to its low cost. Spruce wood has a uniform structure and a light shade.
- Pine. Due to the low density of the wood, it is very easy to process. An additional advantage of pine is low cost material. The disadvantage of a pine staircase is a short service life. A pine ladder is best installed in the country house where it will be used. seasonally.
Pros and cons of wooden stairs
Wooden stairs have their advantages and disadvantages. Let's get acquainted with them in more detail.
Positive sides:
- Low cost of building materials;
- environmental friendliness of wood;
- ease of processing;
- the possibility of mounting with your own hands;
- light weight;
- aesthetic appearance.
Negative sides of wood:
- Low strength compared to concrete or metal stairs;
- wood - natural material and it tends to deteriorate and change. Therefore, after some time, preventive work may be needed;
- fire hazard of the material.
Materials for the manufacture of stairs
For stairs to the second floor You will need:
- Bars for steps;
- beams for risers (foot supports);
- boards;
- beams wide 30 - 40 mm;
- beam for kosour - 50*240mm;
- screws, self-tapping screws;
- wood glue;
- building level, square, tape measure;
- handrails and, but they are best purchased at a hardware store.
Ladder design calculations
If you decide to make wooden stairs do it yourself, think over the nuances of the design: determine its dimensions, calculate the number of steps and supports. It is important to first imagine what function the staircase will perform: connect the floors or lead up to the attic. (Information about self-insulation attic can be read).
Draw scheme it's easy too. Most often, a straight marching staircase is made. It connects the first floor with the second, and reaches a height of several meters. For convenience, the angle of inclination of the structure should be equal to the value in 30-40 degrees.
Note! Wooden houses shrink significantly in the first two years after construction, so the angle of inclination may change.
So, for your convenience, we will provide basic calculations staircase elements (for example, a wooden one) standard designs:
- Base length - 3.5-4 m;
- flight of stairs - 2.5 m;
- step width - 30 cm;
- step height - 15-20 cm.
Necessary calculations
- We define ladder height. Average value from ceiling to floor - 250 cm. TO given value need to add thickness interfloor overlap. Its mean value 35 cm. We get:
250+35=285 cm
- We define ladder height. Average value from ceiling to floor - 250 cm. TO given value need to add thickness interfloor overlap. Its mean value 35 cm. We get:
- calculate number of steps: Divide the height of the stairs by the height of the step. The last value (i.e. the height of the steps) is better to take the average - 17 cm. We get:
285cm/17cm=16.76
- calculate number of steps: Divide the height of the stairs by the height of the step. The last value (i.e. the height of the steps) is better to take the average - 17 cm. We get:
The value is rounded to big side. Total we get 17 steps.
- determine step width. It is believed that the allowable width of the tread (flat facing part of the step) can be in the range from 22-40 cm. In Russian practice, to calculate the width of the step and rise (risers), the formula is used: a + b = 47 cm, where but- riser height b- step width. We get:
47-16.67=30.3cm
- determine step width. It is believed that the allowable width of the tread (flat facing part of the step) can be in the range from 22-40 cm. In Russian practice, to calculate the width of the step and rise (risers), the formula is used: a + b = 47 cm, where but- riser height b- step width. We get:
The value is rounded up to 30 cm. - this is the width of the step.
- the width of the flight of stairs must be a multiple of the width of the step. In our case, this value can be equal to 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm. etc.
- calculate ladder length. The length of the stairs is equal to the product of the number of steps and their width. We get:
17*30= 480cm
- calculate stringer length. We make calculations according to the Pythagorean theorem: the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse. I.e A²+B²=C². In this formula:
BUT- kosour height,
IN- the length of the flight of stairs,
FROM- the length of the kosour. We get:
230400 + 81225 = 311625
The root of this number is 558.23 cm. can be rounded up to 560 cm.
Advice! If it is difficult to make geometric calculations, then you can draw a staircase on paper in an appropriate scale and measure the angle and length of the base.
Ladder assembly
Before proceeding with the assembly of the stairs to the second floor, you need to decide on place of installation of stringers (load-bearing structure flight of stairs). Mounting stairs (in our case, a marching structure) includes several stages:
- Installation of stringers. We fix the lower part of the kosour with a support bar. From above we cut the kosour into the beam of the ceiling.
- grinding stairs, protective coating.
- varnishing And painting. To do this, use a roller or brush. paint over ladder needed in 2-3 layers, every next layer must be applied after some time so that the previous layer has time to dry.
The cost of the finished staircase
Those who decide to buy ready a wooden ladder or make it order, should be aware that the cost will depend on the complexity of the design and the type of wood.
For example, the most common design of a mid-flight staircase with a turn to 90 degrees from pine will cost 60-80000 rub., from birch - 100,000 rubles.,from oak - 150,000 rubles.
You can order a wooden staircase in a specialized store or on company websites. Manufacturing stairs on average 5-10 working days.
To make a wooden staircase yourself or order from specialists - it's up to you. Self-assembly not a quick process, but it has its advantages. First of all, this saving cash and visual Quality control building materials.
How to make a wooden staircase with your own hands tells this video.
Today, most private houses are built on two or more floors. On this basis, the question arises of the need to move around the house, or rather, the construction of stairs. For such a structure, you can use various materials both traditional and exclusive. But many owners country houses in order to save money, they are interested in how to build a staircase with their own hands.
Types of wooden stairs
The first thing to consider when developing a project drawing is this is the size of the platform under the stairs. Also, when choosing a design, you need to take into account the cost of materials, ease of use of the design (during descent and ascent), especially if it is installed for daily use. It is also necessary to pay attention to the aesthetics of this structure, since it must fit into the style and interior of the rooms. Wooden stairs are divided into two types - mid-flight and spiral. In order to choose for yourself which one is better to install, you need to understand the pros and cons of each of them.
Screw structures have quite complex shape, but their main advantage is that they take up a minimum of space, which is especially important in small house. It should be noted that such ladders are installed quite rarely, when compared with marching ones. This is due to the fact that they are difficult to install and operate. Especially if you climb with large equipment.
However, such designs have many fans. Spiral staircases can become a real elegant element of the interior. Plus it's compact.
During installation screw structures you need to make accurate calculations, since the assumption of a small mistake during installation can subsequently lead to many injuries.
Marching structures
Such buildings differ more highly resistant and strength than screw ones. Although screw structures take up much less space than marching ones, they are installed less frequently.
Mostly in private houses, structures with one or two marches are installed. But in principle there may be more. They also have many variety of options structures.
To save space, marching structures are installed on two marches, and at the same time the second part can be turned to the first from 90 to 180 degrees. When planning, the main goal is to create comfortable conditions for using such a design.
Sometimes, for convenience, curvilinear mid-flight stairs are installed. A smooth turn is ensured by the installation of corner steps. Such steps can also be installed on two-flight structures instead of a platform between them.
Single-march wooden
Single-march design- the most popular option among the owners of private houses and not only. The ladder can be located both in the middle of the room and near the wall.
The area under the single-march structure is also used with benefit. For example, if you install a partition and put a small door, a functional utility room for storing things and tools will come out.
It should also be noted that the advantage is the greater strength of such structures, since they have additional support in the form of walls.
Swivel step design
A single-flight staircase with swivel lower steps, as a rule, is installed to emphasize the interior or because of the layout of the room. For example, if a window is installed on the wall near the future staircase and you don’t want to close it with a two-flight structure.
At right approach not only to the design, but also to the interior of the room, turning steps will give the room elegance. At the same time, their functionality is not lost a bit.
Two-march simple
A staircase that has two flights and a turntable between them, is often used when there is a need to install such a design over front door thus significantly saving space. Moreover, it is very compact, and a closet for storing things under it can also be made.
The most popular material for the construction of such structures is considered to be wood. Before starting work on installing a wooden staircase, you need to consider some possible nuances. First of all, you need to decide on the type of construction.
For example, a spiral staircase takes up much less space. But the downside is the complexity of the production and installation of such stairs. Moreover, it is very inconvenient to move along such stairs, since they are rather narrow and it is difficult for a “overall” person to climb and descend them. And there can be no talk of transferring any technology at all.
One of the most popular types of stairs in private households is the flight staircase. Making a wooden staircase with your own hands is not difficult. They are very comfortable and spacious. Structures of this type come with one or two spans, but there is no fundamental difference in the execution technique.
There are also a few things to consider:
- How much space in the house the owner is willing to allocate for installation.
- What is the distance between floors.
- What kind of load does she have to endure every day?
- What elements the structure will have, its height, width, length, etc.
After determining the shape and type of construction, it is necessary to prepare all materials for work. In order not to overpay for extra purchased material, you need to carefully consider the design and make an accurate drawing.
Do not forget about the clearance above the stairs. When a person of average height passes through it, he should not bend down or beat his head against the ceiling.
Having measured all the design parameters and made drawings, you can proceed to the purchase and preparation of all necessary materials. For such structures, you can use a tree of different species. Masters generally recommend using oak, beech or larch. But these types of wood are very expensive. More economical option- coniferous trees. Moreover, they also have sufficient strength for such work and lend themselves well to processing.
When buying the main material, you must definitely pay attention to its quality. It should not have rotten parts, fallen knots, cracks and various deformations. The wood must also be well dried. Knots on the tree are allowed, but not in large numbers. Such a tree is considered second-class. Furniture cannot be made from it and it is better to recycle it.
For installation you need:
In addition to materials, you must first prepare the necessary tool:
- Measuring tools (tape measure, corner, construction ruler).
- Drill for making holes (you can use a cordless one).
- Hacksaw for wood and metal. Alternatively, you can use an electric saw and a jigsaw.
- A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver with different nozzles.
- Chisel and hammer.
- Sandpaper.
- Plane.
A previously completed drawing should always be near the construction site in order to check and not make mistakes.
The next step is to install a wooden staircase with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction needed for proper assembly. When the drawing is in hand and all materials with tools are ready, then you can begin work on assembling the structure.
You need to follow these steps:
At this point, assembly is complete. It remains only to cover everything with a layer of varnish or paint. Before painting, you can apply a ball of antiseptic to protect against pests. If there is a desire to make a staircase in wooden house, then you can do it with ease. The main thing is to follow a properly prepared drawing, select high-quality materials and necessary tools. Then make a little effort - and a chic, comfortable and necessary element of the interior is at the disposal of its owner. The stairs will decorate the house and make life easier.
Often country houses erected in two floors or even more. Yes and on summer cottages, where there is often an acute need to save space for landings, a pool or a place to relax, two-story buildings are also no longer a rarity. But any building above one floor already requires the installation of stairs.
A do-it-yourself wooden staircase can be made after choosing one of the existing designs, carefully calculating all the parameters, and, of course, if the owner of the house has high stable skills in working with carpentry and metalwork tools.
If this element is installed not in a small country house, but in a large country mansion, you must immediately select and mount a reliable and durable structure with high quality. It should calmly withstand the rise of massive furniture that is very large in size. In addition, the stairs should be easy to climb and descend, especially if there are small children or people with disabilities in the house. Therefore, it is recommended to make it as flat as possible, of course, if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room where it will be installed allows. In addition, for safety reasons, the stairs must be equipped with a fence.
To make the right choice, you need to build on not only its design and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room where it is planned to be installed. It is imperative to understand standard designs, in the names and purposes of all the main parts and assemblies.
Structural elements of stairs
The staircase consists of one or more flights or spans. A march is called a section of stairs between two platforms.
Any flight of stairs (flight) consists of a number of basic elements, each of which has its own name and functional purpose.
| Miniature | Element name | The functional purpose of the element |
|---|---|---|
 | This is a load-bearing beam with a comb sawn from above, on which steps and risers are fixed. This element must have special strength, since large loads fall on it. | |
 | Instead of a kosour, a bowstring is sometimes used, which also performs a supporting function. If a bowstring is chosen to secure the steps, then it is carefully marked so that the steps are installed perfectly horizontally. The stand for them is remote bushings or transverse bars. Most often, this support is used if one of the sides of the stairs is adjacent to the wall. | |
 | step | Any staircase cannot do without steps, which are fixed to one of the selected bearing beams(kosour or bowstring). |
 | Radius step | This type of step has not a smooth, but a curvilinear leading edge. Details can be semicircular, have rounded corners or be sawn out by a "wave". |
 | winder step | This type of step has custom shape and is installed at the beginning of the flight of stairs. |
 | riser | This element is optional, but it must be taken into account that it gives the stairs increased strength, as it is the part that supports the middle of the step. They close the space under the step. The riser is fixed to the remote bushing. |
 | Radius riser | The radial view of the riser is installed under the steps that have a semicircular shape. |
 | Radius curved riser | A curved riser is installed under the platform between marches or under steps that have the appropriate shape. |
 | Balusters are columns supporting handrails that create a side railing for flights of stairs. They may have different forms, depending on the style of the stairs. | |
 | support post | Support posts are installed at the beginning and end of the stairs, as well as along the edges of the platforms between marches. They are the extreme supports for the handrails and give strength to the entire fence. |
 | Ball | The balls are mounted on top of the supporting pillars. They are decorative items. In addition, they cover the sharp edges of the bar from which the pole is made. |
 | handrail | It is impossible to do without this element when erecting a staircase, especially if the structure has several marches. Supports for the railings are supporting pillars and balusters. This part should have a perfectly smooth surface so that, holding on to it, do not injure the idly or splinter the palm of the hand |
 | Distance sleeve, bar | Support bars are necessary in the design of any staircase that has two or more marches. Even if stringers are used for mounting steps, supporting bushings are needed when mounting platforms between marches. |
The main types of staircase designs
Always the first thing to consider when choosing a staircase design is the size of the area allotted for it. And the second criterion can be called the convenience of the design, the comfort of climbing and descending along it, especially if the stairs will be used in Everyday life not just once, but constantly. The third thing that should influence the choice is aesthetic appearance this element of the interior, as it should fit perfectly into the style of the room.
Ladders made of wood are divided into two main groups - mid-flight and. To understand how they look and what they are, you need to briefly consider each of the options.
Spiral stairs
Spiral staircases have enough complex structure, but their main advantage is that they occupy a minimum of useful space in the room.
Spiral staircases - a minimum of space occupied, but not always convenient to use
I must say that they are not installed often enough, compared with marching ones. This is explained simply - because they are much more difficult to assemble, and it is not very comfortable to climb and descend on them, and even more so - to raise large pieces of furniture or household appliances to the higher floor.
At the same time, they also have a lot of adherents - screw structures can become a real decoration of the interior, because they have very elegant compact shapes.
For the reliable construction of a spiral staircase structure, you need to make a lot of complex accurate calculations, otherwise serious injuries can occur during its operation.
The article is mostly devoted to mid-flight stairs. And yet, for fans of independent home creativity, there is a detailed video instruction on assembling a spiral staircase. By the way, the author shares his first experience in this area - there is an opportunity to discuss with him.
Video: the first independent experience in the manufacture of a spiral staircase
Marching stairs
The marching design is more reliable than the screw one. Though any of the mid-flight stairs occupies a much larger area, they are built much more often.
Such stairs can have several marches, however, in small private houses, one- and two-flight options are most often installed. These interior elements are also distinguished by a wide variety of designs.
So that the staircase occupies as little usable area as possible, rotary two-flight structures are often chosen. Ladder turns can be arranged at an angle ranging from 90 degrees to 180.
If the layout of the room allows (and sometimes even “requires”), then the staircase may have a curved design. When planning the location of the stairs, the main thing is to create comfortable conditions for the residents of the house to enter it.
A smooth turn in the design of a curved staircase is provided by the installation of rotary steps.
Such steps are also sometimes installed in two-flight stairs instead of platforms between them.
To imagine how such stairs and their elements look like, you need to consider the most popular types in the interior.
Ordinary single-flight staircase
The single-flight staircase is the most simple option, as it has a fairly simple design in the device. A flight of stairs can be located against a wall or in the middle of a room.
As a rule, the area located by the flight of stairs is also used functionally. For example, if the ladder is fixed on the wall, then by closing the area under it with a partition and installing a door, it is quite possible to get a small utility room for storing old things or tools.
It should be noted that this type of staircase to the second floor is the most durable, as it has a reliable support in the form of walls.
One-march curvilinear design
This type of stairs is mainly used in rooms with large area, as it should even emphasize the spaciousness of the hall. This design is not suitable for small country houses, as it takes up a lot of space and is unlikely to fit into the interior.
The staircase turns out to be large due to a smooth turn and steps extended from its outer side (it even looks very much like a spiral one), but it is these features that give it respectability, so this element of the interior will decorate the spacious hall of a large mansion.
Single-flight curvilinear staircase in a rectangular opening
If the location of the stairs is taken into account when planning the construction of the house, then to climb to the second floor the best option there will be exactly a single-march curvilinear design that fits well into a rectangular opening. It is quite compact and aesthetic, as well as quite comfortable for ascent and descent. In addition, a small storage room can also be arranged on one of its sides on the ground floor.
Single-march with lower turning steps
A single-flight staircase with turning lower steps is sometimes necessary in a room due to the peculiarities of the layout of the room, or to maintain the chosen architectural style. For example, in the event that there is a window on the wall reserved for the installation of the landing, which you do not want to close with a two-flight structure.
Due to the smooth turn of the lower steps, and the railings and handrails repeating this direction, the staircase becomes a real one. decorative ornament created interior without sacrificing any functionality.
two-march simple design.
The staircase, which has two flights with a turntable between them, is convenient because it can be installed above the front door, thereby saving space and limiting the hallway area.
Compact two-flight staircase - convenient when there is a lack of space
In addition, it is quite compact, and the space under it can also be used to equip a small closet.
This design is quite reliable, simple and suitable for almost any interior, if you choose the right color and shape for the railing balusters.
L-shaped two-flight design
This staircase also has two flights, but its location perfectly saves space in the room, since the whole structure is compactly located in a rectangular opening along two walls perpendicular to each other. it is quite possible to use it to install one of the pieces of furniture or to arrange the front door.
The ladder is easy to use, compact, and fits perfectly into the interior design of the room.
U-shaped two-flight staircase with turning steps and upper platform.
This design is installed in luxurious country mansions with a very large hall area. As can be seen from the massiveness of the structure, it is not suitable for country houses, and her device in them will look simply ridiculous.
This is rather from the interior of some palaces
Three-flight staircase with two landings
A three-flight staircase structure is often installed precisely in order to save space in the halls, but in order for its elevation angle to be convenient, a large ceiling height is required.
If there is no overlap between floors at the place of its installation, then the area of the second floor will be greatly reduced.
This version of the stairs is also more suitable for a mansion with spacious rooms.
Ladder design calculations
If the place to install ladder construction determined, then before proceeding with the manufacture of parts for the selected option, it is necessary to produce accurate calculations, make a drawing and apply all the resulting parameters to it. If you are not sure that everything will turn out perfectly, then you can entrust this work to specialists in the design and manufacture of wooden stairs working in specialized companies.
Ladder height
To determine this value, it is necessary to measure the distance between the floor levels of the first and second floors. Let's say the ceiling height on the first floor is 2700 mm, and the thickness of the ceiling between floors is 300 mm. So, the total height of the stairs will be:
H = 2700 + 300 = 3000 mm.
Riser height
Experts have calculated an approximate standard height riser, which is based on the size of the step of a person, the most convenient in terms of anatomy. This height can vary between 150 and 200 mm. It is considered optimal because if the step is made lower, then when climbing the stairs, the step will go astray, and you can simply stumble and fall. With a higher riser on the stairs, it will be much more difficult to climb up and uncomfortable to go down.
The table shows the calculation data - if you wish, you can simply use them:
Riser height depending on the total height of the stairs and the planned number of steps
| Floor height in mm | Number of steps (pieces) | |||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | |
| 2100 | 191 | 175 | 162 | 150 | 140 | 131 | 124 | |||||||||
| 2400 | 200 | 185 | 171 | 160 | 150 | 141 | 133 | 126 | 120 | |||||||
| 2700 | 193 | 180 | 169 | 159 | 150 | 142 | 135 | 129 | 123 | |||||||
| 3000 | 200 | 188 | 177 | 167 | 158 | 150 | 143 | 137 | 130 | 125 | 120 | |||||
| 3300 | 194 | 183 | 174 | 165 | 157 | 150 | 144 | 138 | 132 | 127 | ||||||
If it is possible to allocate at least 1.5 square meters for the installation of stairs on the floor of the first floor. m, then it will do, which does not take up much space (this was already mentioned above).
With a clear lack of space, you will have to build a screw or close to it in design
The size of the opening in the ceiling will depend on the angle at which the flight of stairs is installed. For example, for an attached or folding ladder, you need a very small opening for the hatch. For a gentle, most comfortable slope, the opening will have to be made large enough, since the distance at any point throughout the entire rise between the ceiling and the surface of the stairs should be at least 1.95 ÷ 2 meters.
This is necessary so that a person who is tall can move freely along flights of stairs without the risk of hitting his head.
To do this, when marking the location of a single-flight ladder, which will be installed against the wall, the following measurements are taken:
- On the wall determine the angle at which the ladder will be installed.
- Having established the lower point near the floor and the upper one, near the ceiling, they are connected by a solid line - the support elements for the steps will subsequently be attached along it.
- Further, on the drawn line, a place is determined where the distance between it and the ceiling will be the desired two meters.
- From this point, exactly in level, a line is drawn to the junction between the wall and the ceiling - it will determine one of the boundaries of the opening being made in the ceiling.
- Then, exactly at right angles to the mark at the junction, on the ceiling a line is drawn, the length of which will be equal to the width of the stairs. The second side of the rectangle of the opening in the ceiling is marked in the same way.
- On the floor, exactly under the ceiling rectangle, you need to draw exactly the same, and then, using a plumb line, check the correctness of their relative position.
- So the ceiling will be sized opening, which will allow you to calmly climb the stairs, without any risk of getting an accidental head injury.
- Next, before installing the stairs, cut out the intended opening in the ceiling.
Stringer length
To calculate the length of the kosour, you need to use the familiar formula of the Pythagorean theorem, which accurately determines the relationship of the sides of a right triangle:
L2 =F2+H², that is L = √ (F2+H2)
L- determined length of the kosour;
F- the length of the stairs in the plan (determined above);
H- the height of the stairs (also already found earlier)
Using the previously defined parameters and substituting them instead of symbols in the formula, you can set the desired length.
L = √ (4930² + 3000²) = 5771
The result is that the length of the stringer will be 5771 mm or 5.77 m
Materials for wooden stairs
After the calculations have been fully carried out and a drawing of the future building has been drawn up, you can proceed to the purchase of materials.
For work you will need:
- Boards of different thicknesses and lengths:
- for the manufacture of stringers or bowstrings - about 250 wide, 50 mm thick, and the required length is determined by the above formula;
- for steps - at least 20 ÷ 25 mm thick;
- for risers you will need a material having a thickness of 30 ÷ 40 mm.
- Balusters and handrails can be purchased ready-made or. make it yourself. However, for this you will need to have special equipment (lathe, planer, milling machine) and timber 150 × 150 and 100 × 100 mm. It should be noted that the manufacture of these elements is a rather difficult task, and in the absence of experience, it is better not to undertake such work, since you can only unsuccessfully transfer the material to sawdust.
- In addition to lumber, you will need nails and screws. It is possible that for the installation of some elements, reinforcing metal corners will also be needed.
Production of parts and installation of stairs
Using a prepared and carefully calculated drawing, according to the dimensions indicated in it, the elements of the stairs are alternately manufactured and immediately installed.
Bowstring or stringers
- On the boards prepared for the manufacture of stringers, the desired length is marked and the excess is sawn off.
- The next step is marking the "comb" according to the calculated dimensions. For this purpose, you will need a square and a long ruler. Remaining untouched lane boards - the one below the “comb”, should never be less than half the total width of the board.
Marking the stringer for cutting out the "comb"
Stringers should be marked taking into account the angle at which the ladder will be mounted. Therefore, the base for the first step and the lower cut for installation on the floor must be compared with the slope line marked on the wall. It is important that they are placed in horizontal planes, without "blockages" inward or outward.
Then, focusing on these parameters, the entire comb is marked and cut out - for this, you can make a template on the first step that will simplify the work.
- The next step is to fix the limiting thrust beam on the floor along the line where the stairs will begin.
In order to install the stringers to the beam, you can use two methods - by making cuts in the form of grooves in the beam itself, or vice versa - on the stringer.
- Further, the kosour is installed on the support bar on the floor, tightly pressed and fixed to the side wall, as well as in the ceiling opening.
- Then, to the bar on the floor and in the opening, it is set along the width of the stairs and the second one is fixed - a hanging kosour.
It should be noted that sometimes for the rigidity of the structure, not two, but three or even four stringers are required - their number will depend on the chosen width of the stairs.
- In the ceiling opening, the stringers must also be connected with a reliable bar.
The bars on which the base of the stairs will rest and rest must be "tightly" fixed to the floor and in the ceiling opening.
- It is very important to install all stringers perfectly evenly in relation to each other, otherwise the steps may have an undesirable slope to the sides.
Installation of risers and steps (treads)
On the on the securely installed stringers, risers are mounted first. They are made so long, which should be equal to the width of the stairs.
After the risers are fixed, the installation of pre-milled treads (steps) begins. The length of the boards for them should be more than the width of the distance between the two extreme stringers by 10 ÷ 20 mm, and the width should exceed the protrusion of the comb by 20 ÷ 30 mm.
The steps are fixed to the stringers and risers with self-tapping screws, so that the heads of the fasteners are completely deepened into the thickness of the wood.
Installation of supporting pillars and balusters
And the pillars are not such an easy task as it might seem at first. Its solution requires very precise marking and fitting.
- Along the edge of the steps, places are marked on which prepared balusters and support pillars will be installed.
- The hole in the steps for installing the dowel is located at a distance from the edge, equal to half the width of the base of the baluster, so that its edge coincides with the side cut of the step.
The next step is to drill holes on the marked steps. Dowels prepared to size are glued into arranged holes. The dowel should protrude from the step surface by 10 ÷ 15 mm.
- Then, very carefully, exactly according to the diameter of the dowel, (it is usually 8 or 10 mm), holes are drilled at the base of the balusters and pillars.
- Pillars on a single-flight staircase are installed at the beginning and at the end of the march. First, only the upper poles are installed, while the lower ones will be mounted last.
- Next, you need to install one ÷ two balusters on dowels and measure the angle upper surface by attaching a handrail to them. Having defined desired line, you need to mark and cut off the excess part from all the prepared elements.
- Further, the base of the balusters and the hole for the dowels are smeared with glue, and then mounted on the protruding dowel.
The balusters are set vertically in level and pressed well against the steps, fixed, and then left until the glue dries completely.
- Then, the railing is prepared. Their edges are cut at the right angle - it's easy to align on the spot. Holes are also drilled on their sections, with the help of which the railing will be connected to the supporting pillars.
- When the glue under the balusters is completely dry, the railings are mounted on top of them. A hole drilled on the upper cut of the railing rail is put on a dowel glued into the upper post.
Then, the railings are laid on balusters, smeared with glue on top. Thanks to the groove milled from the bottom of the railing, the balusters will be firmly fixed in the desired position. But, nevertheless, the next step with the help of thin self-tapping screws, the balusters are screwed to the railing from below.
- The last to install the lower support post, which is connected to the lower cut of the railing, also by gluing the dowel.
Finishing installation work, and after the wood glue dries, the stairs are covered with a special primer. After it is completely absorbed and dried, the wood is covered with a transparent varnish, preferably water-based, or paint of the selected shade.
Video: Installation of a set of wooden two-flight stairs
To manufacture and assemble even the simplest staircase is quite difficult, especially if there is no proper experience in this work. With the slightest uncertainty own forces it is recommended to seek help from specialists - at least in order to carry out, albeit independent work, but under their vigilant guidance. Mistakes here absolutely not allowed- an incorrectly calculated or carelessly mounted design can lead to serious injury.