Modern suburban or country houses they rarely build one-story buildings, mainly two-story, three-story or one-story buildings with an attic floor. In this case, there is always a need to somehow make high-quality movement between floors possible. good decision there will be the manufacture of wooden stairs that could provide a comfortable entry and carrying of heavy furniture or equipment. Let's just say that this is not an easy task. And if it is possible to order at least a project or even finished staircase elements from the manufacturer, then it is better to do so. Well, if you are confident in your abilities, have carpentry skills and free time, you can try to make a staircase yourself. Within the framework of this article, we will briefly talk about what design stairs are, how to perform the calculation and how to make a staircase.
Construction of a wooden staircase
It is necessary to choose the design of the stairs based on the space that can be used, the convenience of location, configuration and lifting, as well as for aesthetic reasons.
Conventionally, all wooden stairs can be divided into spiral and mid-flight.
Spiral stairs are used quite rarely. Mostly in extremely tight spaces. The second reason may be the desire of the owner - for aesthetic reasons. It is worth noting that the spiral staircases are not very functional. For example, it is extremely difficult to bring heavy furniture along it. In other words, it can serve only for the descent - ascent of one person. To make it, you need to complex calculations, since it will rely on one pillar - a support. The slightest mistake in the calculation of strength can lead to sad consequences.
Marching stairs- the most common. They consist of their marches, they are also called "flight of stairs", i.e. directly the steps and platforms that separate the marches. Marches can be either one or several. And there may be no platforms at all if the stairs are single-flight.
Marching stairs may have different design You can see them in detail in the diagram below.
There are straight marching stairs. At the same time, they can be single-march and two-march, separated by a platform for ease of movement. Such stairs can be located against the wall or not lean against the wall at all. characteristic feature straight stairs is that they take up a lot of space.
Most often, to save space and ease of use between floors inside the house, two-flight turning stairs are made. The rotation can be right angle (90°) or any other angle up to 180°.
March may have curvilinear design with a convenient angle for entering the stairs. In this case, all steps can also be rotary.
Also, two-flight and three-flight stairs may not have platforms, but only turning steps.
In order to choose the right staircase design for a particular situation, it is necessary to measure the free space that can be used under the stairs, make small calculations and draw a drawing. The drawing should show how the staircase is located, whether its elements interfere and how comfortable it will be.
Elements of wooden stairs
The above photo shows the elements that make up the stairs, and their names are indicated.
Kosour represents load-bearing beam, which supports the treads and risers from below. It bears all the loads.
bowstring also performs a support-bearing function. At the same time, there are recesses in it, into which the steps are inserted with the butt. This design is used on the one hand, if the staircase is adjacent to the wall, and on both sides - if the march is sandwiched between two walls. The bowstring is less preferable than the kosour due to the fact that it is not able to withstand heavy loads. Therefore, even if the stairs adjoin the wall, they still try to complete it on the stringers.
steps for stairs - wooden beams, consist of a tread (horizontal) and a riser (vertical). We step on the surface of the tread with our feet. And the riser is a vertical beam under the step, which encloses the tread space and performs a supporting function. It is possible to make stairs without a riser, in which case the step space will be free, the leg will not rest, but the structure will be less durable and reliable.
Steps can be rectangular, radius for a beautiful entrance to the stairs, turning at a certain angle to replace the dividing platform and running - the first step of a non-standard shape.
railing for stairs - wooden balusters and handrails. Their shape and size may vary. Basically, railings are made to order, in the form that the customer wishes.
If the staircase is more than one-flight, its design includes support post or pillars at the turning points of the stairs.
Before proceeding with the manufacture of stairs, it is imperative to make calculations and complete a drawing. Wooden drawings for stairs are made both independently and with the help of special architectural programs. In the latter, you can also perform calculations. A good solution would be to contact companies specializing in wooden stairs. So you can be sure of the quality and accuracy of the calculations.
Calculation of a wooden staircase
Number of steps and riser height
To determine the height of the stairs, we measure the distance from the base of the finished floor of the first floor to the finished floor of the second floor. If the finishing floor is not yet equipped, then its dimensions must be laid on the basis of "by eye". Because the wooden staircase becomes only on the final floor. In this case, we assume that the height from floor to ceiling is 250 cm, the thickness interfloor overlap together with the floor - 35 cm. Total 285 cm.
We make a calculation, starting from the height of the riser. The fact is that most often this size is standard and ranges from 15.2 to 19.7 cm. It is believed that this height is the most optimal for ease of use. Smaller - will knock down the step. Large - too heavy to climb and difficult to descend. From this interval we take the average value (you can take any) - 17 cm.
Number of steps = ladder height / riser height;
Since the number of steps cannot be uneven, we round to big side - 17 pieces.
In doing so, we have two options. We can make the first winder step small, and the rest with a riser of 17 cm. Or we can recalculate and get a more accurate, but uneven result.
To do this, we divide the height of the stairs by the number of steps: 285/17 \u003d 16.76 cm.
So we can complete 17 identical steps with riser height 16.7 cm.
It is believed that the minimum tread width for convenience should be 22 cm, and the maximum 37 - 40 cm. If less, it will be difficult to descend, if more, the step will go astray.
For a more accurate calculation, there is a dependence:
- 2a + b = 64 cm;
- a + b = 47 cm;
a - riser height;
b - tread width.
Let's try the second formula: 47 cm - 16.7 cm = 30.3 cm. This width is quite acceptable, we can round it up to 30 cm.
For the sake of interest, we calculate according to the second formula: 2a + 16.7 = 64; a = 23.65 cm. This width is too small, so we will use the data obtained from the previous formula.
The width of the march of the wooden stairs
In principle, the width of the march is not strictly regulated in any way, but the number of marches will depend on the place that can be used for the stairs.
It is believed that the minimum comfortable width of the march is 80 cm. If the stairs are narrower, there will be difficulties with the passage fat people or carrying furniture. Options from 100 to 140 cm will be successful.
In order for the whole structure of the stairs to look organic, you can use the following hint: the width of the march should be a multiple of the width of the tread. In our case, these are 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm and 160 cm.
Ladder length
To calculate the length of the stairs, we need only two values that we have already calculated, this is the width of the tread and the number of steps.
Stair length = tread width * number of steps(without the last one - it will be the floor of the second floor);
30 * 16 = 480 cm.
4 meters and 80 cm- a rather large length, which "eats" a lot of space.
Therefore, if it is not possible to equip such a staircase in one flight and straight, you will have to change the design and make it two-flight with a turn of 180 °. In this case, you can make a dividing platform, or you can make turning steps. It is most convenient to make such calculations in special programs, where the location of the elements of the stairs will also be clearly visible.
Clearance height above steps
An important parameter. The beginning of the flight of stairs almost always falls under the ceiling, thus reducing the free space above the head of the person walking up the stairs.
Even at the stage of creating a drawing, it is necessary to calculate the height from the highest step, located under the ceiling, to the ceiling. Minimum permissible value, capable of providing comfortable access to the stairs even for the tallest people, is 195 - 200 cm.
Stringer length
Calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.
Ladder length2 + ladder height2 = kosour length2;
4802+2852= stringer length2;
230400 + 81225 = stringer length2;
Stringer length = 558,23 cm. We take with a margin of 560 or 580 cm.
How to make a wooden staircase
by the most simple solution will order from the company a project and ready-made elements of the stairs, with all the necessary cutouts. All elements will be numbered. After the unassembled stairs are delivered to the construction site, wooden stairs are assembled according to the attached drawing and diagram. So you don't have to buy special tool for pruning and dusting in the house.
We buy material for a wooden staircase
If you decide to do self-assembly wooden stairs, start by buying building materials.
For bowstrings or stringers, a beam of 50 * 250 mm is required. Its minimum width can be 150 mm, if the design of the stairs allows.
For risers, we purchase beams with a minimum thickness of 25 mm, you can take thicker ones.
For beam treads, it is better to take from 30 to 40 mm. And you can the same as for the risers.
We order handrails and balusters from the manufacturer or buy ready-made ones, since in order to make them yourself and beautifully, you need to have considerable experience, knowledge and skills.
Install stringers or bowstrings
We cut the beam, which we bought for the stringers, from above and below so that we get the required length of the stairs. Then from below we cut off another thickness of one tread, i.e. 5 cm
Important! The fact is that when we did the calculation of the number of treads, we did not take into account the thickness of the steps. It is really not important for the whole structure, except for the first step - its height does not increase by the thickness of the tread.
We cut off the excess. It is better to use a jigsaw or a saw. But for lack of it, you can use a hand saw.
Then we attach the kosour to the place where the ladder will stand. Its upper edge should rest against the ceiling, and the lower one should rest firmly against the floor of the first floor. We check the horizontalness of the cuts for the steps.
Important! We need two such stringers, but depending on the loads that the staircase must withstand, there may be more stringers. In this case, we cut out all the others, using the first one as a template.
Thoroughly sand all surfaces. If necessary, we mill the outer edges, making roundings (for beauty).
At the bottom and at the top of the stringers must be connected to each other by a beam. To do this, cut them a quarter from the bottom and top. We fix to a thick beam with anchor bolts. If it is possible to fix the stringers to the walls, then we also use anchors.
If we use one bowstring, then it must be cut to the required length. Then cut out holes inside with a cutter - recesses for steps. The bowstring is fixed to the wall with anchors.
Important! Checking correct location bowstrings and kosour on the other hand, they should be located on the same level so that the steps do not have a slope.
Install steps and risers
After the stringers are tightly fixed, we begin to put the risers.
To do this, we cut the beam into required amount risers of a certain length. We level them relative to each other and sand them.
We fix it to the kosour with self-tapping screws on the front side. Then we putty them or hide them under decorative elements. You can also use special glue.
When all the risers are installed, proceed to the steps - treads.
To do this, we also saw the beam into the number of steps minus one. Then we skin their surface and mill the protruding outer edge with an angle.
Then we put them on top of the risers and fix them with self-tapping screws or screws.
Important! If we use the bowstring on one side, then we insert the step into the groove cut in the bowstring, having previously glued the edge of the step and the hole in the bowstring.
We install the balusters on the steps and fix them with studs 100 mm long and 8 mm thick.
From above we install and fix the railing with self-tapping screws.
At this point, the work is completed, only the painting of the wooden stairs remains. For better preservation of wood, while preserving its natural beauty, you can use special transparent varnish coatings.
In this article, we examined the manufacture of a single-flight straight wooden staircase with our own hands. If the project involves a staircase of a different design, then the installation will be different. For example, for a two-flight staircase, the platform and the supporting column are first installed and fixed, and then the stringers, risers and steps are already installed. Some steps in this case may not be straight, but rotary and rounded.
During construction frame house sometimes the question arises how to build a wooden staircase? Most of the projects involve the presence of a second or attic floor. Stairs come in a wide variety of materials.
But wood is the most popular and simple material as well as eco-friendly and convenient. Anyone can handle this material. Building and installing stairs with your own hands is a tangible cost savings.
There are two main types of wooden stairs - spiral and mid-flight.
Mid-flight stairs are the most common and simple, and if you are new to construction, choose this kind of stairs.
As a rule, such schemes are in electronic format. There are special computer programs and applications that allow you to create such models. Professional programs for construction organizations have a 3D function. Although, this is not at all necessary for the construction of a marching staircase, the usual one on paper will suffice.
Standard interfloor wooden stairs are installed on stringers or bowstrings. The difference lies in the following: the bowstrings are located on the side of the steps, and the stringers are under the steps.
A marching ladder usually has two side bowstrings. Its steps are attached on both sides. Consider the installation and installation of stairs with just such a technology.
Installation of a marching staircase
Initially we make detailed diagram for stairs and its parts. We pre-cut the steps from the boards, make 2 bowstrings and special supporting bars. Next, we connect the steps with bowstrings. Under each step we make a supporting bar. We mount all bowstrings to the floor and to the walls.
Kosuar and bowstrings Spiral interfloor wooden staircase
Oak spiral staircase If you can’t build a staircase with your own hands, then you can opt for a finished screw wooden structure. The advantage of this staircase is that it will significantly save space in the house.
It is important to take into account when building a spiral staircase its angle of inclination. If it is too steep, it can be hazardous to health, especially if there are children and elderly people in the house.
An easy way to install and install a spiral staircase is to buy a ready-made, measured design. on the installation will also bring you significant benefits.
A spiral wooden staircase consists of three main parts: a rack, a railing and steps. When choosing wood for stairs, choose oak. It is not only one of the most durable materials, but also differs beautiful view and excellent features.
Before buying a spiral staircase, measure the dimensions in detail in order to choose the right design for your home. There is another option - to hire a specialist who will take all the measurements himself, and after that already place an order for the stairs. If you have building skills, you can make the steps yourself, ordering only the rack and railing. Usually racks and railings are made to order, chiseled, although there are also rectangular ones.
The device of the spiral staircase
- On the one hand, the steps are attached to the rack, and on the other, they have holes for the railing.
- Racks are mostly metal. They have a flange to which steps are attached.
- The most common staircase design is "in duck step". It involves a special form of steps.
- The rack is mounted between floors. It is attached to the floor with anchor bolts.
- After installing the rack, the steps are installed. The distance between the steps should not exceed 20 cm. This is necessary for your safety. When assembling and installing steps, make sure that the last rung of the stairs fits exactly to the floor of the second floor.
At the spiral staircase, like the marching one, there are many decorative elements and details. And each set has its own decorations and miscellaneous details, and fasteners. When installing and assembling a simple mid-flight staircase, the calculation is different, the geometry of the opening here is rectangular. The opening at the spiral staircase is a circle.
If you decide to order a finished wooden staircase, then contact a trusted and reliable company, with good reviews. Buy a ready-made wooden staircase or make it yourself with your own hands.
Staircase painting
Stair painting Painting stairs is divided into three main parts:
- preliminary preparation of all the details of the stairs;
- painting stairs and its details;
- painting the stairs with a protective varnish layer.
Before starting work, you need to prepare each element of our stairs for painting. And this means: and. Puttying needs to be done special blends for a tree. The use of compounds that are not suitable for wood is strictly prohibited.
When the putty layer has dried, we proceed to polishing the surface. Grinding takes place in two stages. The first stage is rough, it is also called superficial. After that, you have to wait a few days. You will notice that lint forms on the surface of the wood. Blow them with air before the second sanding.
After the completion of the grinding work, the board will become perfectly flat and smooth. Now feel free to start applying the first coating.
Before you start painting, apply a coat of primer to the wooden stairs. And it is better to choose a primer to match the paint.
When choosing a paint, stop your attention on alkyd or urethane types of coating. Such paints are ideal for a flight of stairs. From colors choose lighter colors.
If desired, instead of paint, you can use, or use stain or varnish. The advantages of wood stain are that it perfectly emphasizes and highlights the unique pattern of wood. Your staircase will look perfect. Choose stain along with varnish. And don't skimp on the purchase. The better coloring composition the longer the ladder will last. Stain is not only decorative trim but also protection from various factors.
After the paint has dried, apply finishing layer varnish. Choose from a matte or semi-matt finish. Lacquering is carried out in three stages. Moreover, before each subsequent application, the previous layer of varnish must dry. If air bubbles form on the varnish, then after painting, simply sand them.
If you plan a wooden staircase with your own hands - step-by-step instructions with photos, videos and installation projects posted on this portal will be an excellent guide in this matter. To prepare for the process, you need to stock up essential tool and materials.
Materials and parameters
Lumber: board 40 and 25 cm wide, 4 to 2.5 cm thick, beams 5x5 cm, carpentry glue, paints and varnishes, galvanized screed rods, self-tapping screws and corners. Among the equipment used is a hand circular, a screwdriver, brushes, abrasive skin, a clamp, a chisel, a grinder.
For correct placement, the slope of the slope is determined, equal to 25 - 40 gr. The gap between the steps is 19 cm. The width of the tread is 25 cm or more. The height of the handrails is 90 cm. edged boards with parameters 40 cm wide and 4 cm thick.
Installation of a conventional straight staircase
- Here you can find out best way on which a wooden staircase is created with your own hands, video from step by step instructions will allow you to build the structure as quickly and correctly as possible:
- The marking of areas for the installation of treads is provided by means of a circular using a template. To do this, cuts are created with a depth of 1 cm. Using a chisel, the mass of wood is removed between the cuts. The finished bowstring is mounted on the workplace.
- The bowstrings are fixed with self-tapping screws to the floor surface. To do this, stock up on a screwdriver and galvanized metal corners.
- Steps are cut out of boards 25 cm wide using a circular. The thickness of the steps is trimmed to match the width of the span, not less than 2.5 cm. grinder.
- The assembly of steps and bowstrings is carried out with carpentry glue. The end parts of the steps and the grooves in the bowstring are smeared. For the screed, galvanized rods with threaded ends are used. Nuts with wide spacers are screwed on them.
- Two boards are fixed to the installed rack at a level of 90 cm. They will provide the functions of handrails.
- 3.5" steel post.
- Wood massif 1×8.
- Wooden elements 1×12.
- Connectors in the form of racks.
- Supports for handrails.
- Handrails with specified parameters.
- Metal base for steps.
- Welding machine.
Spiral staircase: Materials for manufacturing
Step by step installation
In the construction under consideration, the distance between the floors is 3 m. Then the total height is divided by the selected size of the steps and their number is obtained: 300 cm ÷ 18 cm = 16.6 pcs.
The top position will end with step 17 (rounded result). The width of the steps along the inner edge is 10 cm. The calculation of the outer edge begins with determining the outer diameter of the stairs without handrails.
The average rack and 2 steps form a section of 172 cm. To determine the circumference, it is necessary to multiply the diameter of the stairs by 3.14. Then 172 cm x 3.14 = 540 cm. Since 17 steps are to be installed, 210 ÷ 17 = 32 cm. To create an overlap of 2.5 cm, the width of the steps outside is 35 cm.
support part
The screw device is created using a central metal support and bases for steps. For a central post with a diameter of 20 cm, 400 cm are cut off. Of these, 300 are reserved for 17 steps, 90 cm for the fence at the top and 10 cm protrude for the stock.
The column is marked at the points where steps are planned to be erected, that is, every 17.64 cm. The upper part will be crowned with a thick round plate welded to the column. At the bottom, a square platform is created with a height of 1 cm and parameters of 30 by 30 cm. Gaps are made in each corner of the platform for anchors and fixed to the base.
Stair placement
Steps are attached to the central support in the marked areas. Each subsequent step overlaps the previous one by 2.5 cm so that it is possible to fix the supports for the connection. They attach one step to another. This is metal or wood. Then all the bases of the steps are fixed to the central support. Wooden steps are superimposed on the bases. Gaps are made in the places connecting the supports.
Then you can screw 3 railing posts per step so that there is a gap of no more than 10 cm between them. After mounting the posts, you can fix the handrails. When buying material, it is important to observe the ability to form bends in the direction of the stairs.
When carrying out decorative processing, it is possible to paste over a metal support with wood materials. Lacquer coatings are used to finish the steps. They are applied over a primed surface.
Attention! Widely used wooden steps in combination with glass, metal and plastic handrails.
For the installation of structures are used adhesive compositions With different types fasteners. However, their device may impose too much load on the product.
You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can later lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. Stairs to the second floor, made by yourself, will give you several advantages:
- the result will meet expectations;
- help save money and nerves;
- a staircase made by yourself will become your pride.
If you are limited in funds for the purchase of materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be varnished or painted.
In the pursuit of economy, quality can be overlooked. Although a cheap wooden staircase can also last quite a long time, it will start to creak very soon. In order not to run into this trouble, the ladder must be assembled using silicone sealant which cannot be done without preliminary painting of the parts.
In this article, we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with our own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.
For the manufacture of interfloor stairs concrete with tile or marble cladding, metal (requires a welding machine), as well as wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and beautiful in appearance.
In the presence of a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, preference should be given to direct structures, or with a 25% turn of the stairs. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storage. It is impossible not to note the minus: on the upper and lower floors, the free space will be significantly reduced.
To save precious square meters a spiral version of the staircase is ideal, but it is also not without drawbacks:
- too steep climb;
- small width stairs.
To install a spiral staircase, you will need 3 m² of free space and a lot of work.
Another variant of the ladder device is possible, in which it is located along the wall surface. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. Thus, you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.
- Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors together with the ceiling. Thus, you determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18-20 cm. Further dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
- Projection of dimensions on the floor surface. To design a structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (about 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
- Production of staircase elements. To make a kosour, you will need a 14 × 16 beam, steps - 4 cm boards, risers - 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the steps yourself, remember that the larger it is, the better.
- Pre-sampling. If during the preliminary fitting of the parts everything came up, process each element with a grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the parts of the stairs to each other, coat all the places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or carpentry) and additionally fix it with screws.
- Stain and lacquer finish. First, apply a stain on the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover with several layers of varnish.
As design solution you can consider the mortise steps that are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:
- Make markings on the stringer at the places where the steps are installed. Using a hacksaw and a chisel, cut out the grooves.
- In the center of the groove, make several holes with a size of 9 mm.
- Screw the turbo coupling into the holes made.
- Install the step into the groove and tighten the bolts.
When buying planed wood, the following requirements must be considered:
- there should be no dark spots on the surface;
- the presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.
Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if steps or risers are made from the material. Also pay attention to humidity, the large mass of the board suggests that you should refuse to purchase.
When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.
Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of manufacturing stairs made of wood. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual structural details. To do this, take a well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. In doing so, several factors should be taken into account:
- The strength and reliability of the stairs will depend entirely on the correct cutting of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the kosour, it is necessary to choose a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
- The board for risers can have a thickness of 15-20 mm more than allotted for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should have a perfectly flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be in the range of 30–35 mm.
- If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture must also be extremely accurate. Its thickness should not be large, 15-20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
- As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended that they be purchased ready-made with stationary mounts.
If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.
When all the blanks of the structure are ready, you can proceed to the most important stage of work - the installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:
- Stringers are mounted at the selected location. To do this, fix the support beam on the floor, it is on it that the kosour will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, fastening is used metal support. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. During the installation of the kosour, be sure to check everything by level or plumb.
- Before laying the tread sheet, the risers must be screwed on.
- After that, treads are fixed on the stringers and on top of the risers with self-tapping screws in the direction from bottom to top.
- After that, the installation of balusters is carried out.
So, on top of the stairs and below you mount support drains. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.
In addition, the support posts serve as a decoration. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.
Balusters, in turn, may have different shape, dimensions and methods of fastening. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be closed with a decorative plug. Further work is as follows:
- On top of the installed balusters, fasten the railing to the extreme support posts. Additionally, 1 or 2 additional support posts can be installed in the middle.
- When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters between the posts, you can install several boards parallel to the slope of the stairs.
- At the next stage, you can start grinding with an emery or grinder. After that, a paint coating is applied.
The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and the appearance of mold / fungus. The design should dry out, after which you can proceed to the main painting.
The stairs are varnished water based, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. Everything depends on your desire.
Thus, the wooden staircase is ready for operation.
Ladder, made of metal, requires a lot of labor, plus not everyone has the skills to work with welding machine. And yet, if you are ready to complete the work of such a plan, then you need to prepare such a set of tools:
- Welding machine and electrodes for DC Ø3.2 and 1.6 mm.
- Protective mask of the welder.
- Mittens.
- Bulgarian and cutting discs 125 × 1.6 mm.
- Grinding disc 125 mm.
- Drill and a set of drill bits for metal.
- Metal table.
- Clamp that can be adjusted in height from 0 to 800 mm.
- Vice.
- Pencil.
- Square.
- Roulette.
- Metal paint.
- White Spirit.
- Primer.
With all of this, plus suitable material you can start installation work. As for the selection of material, this can be done according to the completed drawing. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the principle of manufacturing a metal staircase on two stringers.
It is worth noting right away that the whole process consists of the following phased actions:
- Production of blanks.
- Filly making, i.e. step attachment points.
- Corner welding.
- Kosour installation.
- Welding steps and railings.
- Sanding and priming/painting.
All work should be done slowly, strictly adhering to all dimensions of the drawing. Otherwise, any small distortion will be problematic to fix, moreover, it will ruin appearance finished construction. So, the work is carried out as follows:
- From the corners it is necessary to make fasteners for the steps (filly). In relation to each other, they should be mirrored.
- You can make fillies from a corner. To do this, cut out the samples and dock the corners together. The result should be L-shaped blanks with shelves down and inward. Depending on the number of steps, you make a pair of fillies. One of them will be on the left, the other on the right.
- Between each pair of corners, weld brackets for fastening the steps and crossbars. The crossbar is similarly made from a corner.
- To increase the strength, you can install small scarves from the bottom of the step towards the stringer.
- Now take a square profile pipe and make markings on it, or rather, on its edge. On it you can weld fillies to the kosour. Transfer exactly the same markup to another kosour. As a result, it will be possible to achieve the geometry of the entire structure.
If metal staircase has a width of more than 1.2 m, then you will need to install an additional stringer.
Next, you need to mount the kosour. At the bottom, it is welded to the support platform, and at the top it is fixed to the floor slab or to the wall with anchors. In each case, the method of fastening may differ. Therefore, be guided by the features of your opening. During this process, it is important to stick to the level. Moreover, two stringers must be strictly on the same level. In conclusion, it remains to weld the steps to the fillies. As an option, you can install wooden steps on the filly. But for this you need to use mounting bolts.
The uppermost step should be installed as close as possible to the wall (if the stringers are anchored to the wall). Next, weld the fence. At the same time, install it on the side so as not to reduce the width of the steps.
When arranging the railing, you can use forging or purchase prepared elements. Here again, it all depends on your personal taste and vision of the final result.
When all welding work completed, it's time to grind all the welding joints. It is also necessary to eliminate all burrs and notches. Using a wire brush, sweep away all particles. After that, the surface of the stairs is primed and painted in the desired color.
If the steps are wooden, then their installation is carried out after the paint has dried.
Finally, you can decorate the stairs. For example, trim the steps from the bottom side with wood. Stainless steel railings are also available. Lay out steps ceramic tiles. Due to this, a seemingly careless and bulky design will acquire beautiful outlines and will be an excellent addition to the interior of the house.
Although this whole process may seem easy, working with metal is very tedious. Unlike working with wood, when it is easy to fix defects in case of shortcomings, it is much more problematic with metal. However, the life of the entire structure significantly exceeds its analogue from wood.
Speaking of attractiveness and bright element interior, then competitors to the spiral staircase can hardly be found. If properly constructed, it will last long years. It can be made both from wood and from metal with forging elements. There are 4 main types of spiral staircases:
- Design with wedge-shaped steps, which with a narrow side rest on a supporting central column, and with a wide side on a wall or a fabricated frame. In this case, spiral bowstrings are constructed on stringers.
- A free-standing structure, remote from the walls with cantilevered steps on a monolithic pillar placed in the center.
- Design without a central support column. The steps are supported by curved bowstrings or stringers, which smoothly pass into the railing. This option is very beautiful and sophisticated. However, it is very difficult to manufacture.
- Design with a central support rod (asbestos-cement or steel pipeØ50 mm). This type of ladder is the most common.
As practice shows, the most convenient spiral staircases with a span of 0.8–0.9 m wide. As a result, the diameter of the entire ladder construction will reach up to 2 m, this is taking into account the central support post and railings. If we talk about the shape of the stairs, then it can be round, square, rectangular or oval.
If the traffic intensity in your house is small, then the total diameter of the stairs is enough to make up to 1.5 m. In this case, the treads will have a width of up to 0.6 m.
It is also necessary to consider the ergonomics of the spiral staircase. The principle of the size and height of the steps is the same as on ordinary straight stairs, we have already talked about such measurements above. But there are some features, namely a comfortable lifting height for a person. For example, we suggest you consider the option of a spiral staircase, 3 m high and 0.8 m march wide.
The calculations are presented below:
- The total diameter of the stairs with such dimensions is equal to twice the width of the march, and the thickness of the support post is 20 cm. As a result, we get the following - D = 0.8 × 2 + 0.20 = 1.8 m.
- The lifting radius is equal to half the width of the flight of stairs and support: Rn \u003d 0.4 + 0.1 \u003d 0.5 cm.
- Now dividing the length of the trajectory of movement by the depth of the tread, we can determine the number of steps in one turn: L = 2 π: 200 = 2 × 3.14 × 500: 200 = 17.2. As a result, there can be 17 steps in one turn of the flight of stairs.
- It is also necessary to calculate the ergonomic step height. This must be done from the point of view that a person in full growth can move freely. Take for example a height of 1.8 m, add operational 20 to this value and divide by the number of steps in one turn. As a result, it turns out like this: h \u003d 2000: 17 \u003d 120 mm.
If the spiral staircase has a height of 3 m, then to determine the number of steps, perform the following steps n \u003d 3000: 120 \u003d 25. The result is 25 steps, 12 cm high.
In order for the spiral staircase to be durable and easy to use, it is important to observe the following rules:
- On the spiral staircase better not to install risers. This will increase the safety of the structure, and the foot will rest well on the step and not slip off the step in a narrow place.
- If the height of the passage is 2 m, then even tall man can move comfortably up the stairs.
- To install the support stand, choose a place that will support the weight of the entire structure and 2-3 people.
For steps, it is best to choose a durable wood, such as oak or beech. Although it is much easier to buy ready-made steps. For example, you buy a step rectangular shape, and cut out the necessary configuration from it. The thickness of the product can be 40mm or 30mm. If one step is divided diagonally, then the result will be two steps at once. The edges of the workpiece must be rounded and sanded with a grinder. Then you can cover them with varnish or paint. A special sleeve should be fixed on the step, which will hold it on the support post.
wooden stairs made by hand is quite simple. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of building a wooden structure so that you do not make mistakes in the process.
All work on the manufacture of stairs can be divided into two main stages:
- Design;
- Construction assembly.
Design
Staircase is enough complex structure, therefore it is simply impossible to make it qualitatively without a detailed project, especially for a beginner. The design process can be broken down into three main steps:
Step 1: Determining the type of structure
Everything existing species stairs can be divided into two types:
- Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only winders located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
Keep in mind that such stairs are inconvenient to use, and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend beginners to take on the construction of a spiral staircase;
- Marching. These stairs have smooth marches (flights of stairs). They are more comfortable and safer to use. However, keep in mind that mid-flight stairs take up more space in the room.
Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subspecies:
- Single-march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
- Rotary with winder steps. They can have several flights of stairs, between which there are turning (winder steps);
- Rotary with landings. Flat platforms are installed between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;
- "Duck step". The peculiarity of these stairs is the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, only one foot can stand on a step, hence their name.
Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the angle of inclination can exceed 40-45 degrees.
The type of construction should be chosen depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If there is not enough space, you can make a "duck step" staircase, which requires a minimum of floor space on the ground floor. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make a turning staircase with marching platforms.
Stage 2: calculate the stairs
On the this stage need to decide on these important parameters stairs like:
- Number of treads;
- riser height;
- The angle of the stairs;
- March length;
- The area that the stairs will occupy on the first floor.
Any staircase should be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:
- Step sizes. The height cannot be made more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The width of the tread should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
Keep in mind that all steps must be the same height and width, otherwise the stairs will turn out to be traumatic; - The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs with a platform.
In addition, it is desirable that the march has an odd number of steps, so that a person finishes the descent or ascent with the same foot with which he began moving up the stairs; - March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
- Railing height. At least 90 cm.
Calculation of the number of steps. Before proceeding with the calculation of the stairs, you need to measure the height between floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. the height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.
Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.
To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be any within 160-190 mm. For example, let's take a height of 180 mm, in which case we will have the number of steps 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.
Since we need an even amount, we will correct the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.
Tread width calculation. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable ladder - a + b = 470 mm, where:
- a - riser height;
- b - tread width.
From this formula we get the width of the tread 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is well within the acceptable range.
March length calculation. Now it remains to calculate only the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection on the floor. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the tread by the number of steps - 29.4x17 \u003d 499.8 ~ 5 m.
Since the stairs will turn out to be quite long, it is advisable to make it rotary, consisting of two marches. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the platform, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.
The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. at least 90-100 cm.
If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs to the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within the acceptable range.
Calculation of the length of the kosour or bowstring. The calculation of the stringer is performed according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs squared + the height of the stairs squared = the length of the stringer squared.
Stage 3: draw up a drawing
Now you need to prepare a drawing according to which you will make the details of the stairs. To do this, first consider the details that the design of a wooden staircase includes:
- Kosour. Bearing beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the kosour takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;
- Bowstring. It is also a carrier beam. It differs from the kosour by the absence of cutouts for the steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam by the butt.
To attach the treads to the bowstring, recesses are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;
- Steps. They consist of two elements - tread (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). I must say that the design of a wooden staircase may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.
What is the best way to make a ladder - on stringers or bowstrings? The design on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cutouts for the steps, however, the ladder on the stringers is able to withstand a large load.
Making stairs
Consider how a ladder is made of wood with your own hands. This process can be conditionally divided into several stages:
Stage 1: preparation of stringers
The work is done like this:
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Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm. |
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Beam preparation. Cut boards 40x300 mm along the length of the stringer according to the design calculations. |
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Kosour markup. For marking, use a construction square. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers, as shown in the photo. Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and stringer must match the angle of inclination. In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you can perform the following steps:
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Cutting out the kosour. Carefully cut out the cuts with a hacksaw, jigsaw or other tool. In the same way, make all the other stringers. |
To make paired kosours exactly the same, use the first kosour as a template - attach it to the board and circle it with a pencil.
Stage 2: frame assembly
Now we need to make the remaining elements of the ladder frame, and install them. The work is done like this:
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Materials. In addition to the kosour for assembly, you will need:
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Mounting the kosour to the wall:
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Support post installation:
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Column marking. Mark on the pole the junction of the second stringer. To do this, you can use a laser or water level. |
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Installation of the second stringer:
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Installation of the stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span. |
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Site frame assembly:
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This completes the installation of the frame. If your stairs are straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.
Stage 3: cladding stairs
Sheathing stairs is carried out as follows:
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Materials. At this stage we will need:
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Marking steps and treads:
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Cutting details. Use a jigsaw or other tool for this purpose. In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards for sheathing the landing.
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Hole drilling:
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Processing the joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this. |
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Installation of steps and risers. Fasten the parts with self-tapping screws. |
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Sheathing the space under the stairs:
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Upper flight lining:
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Stage 4. railing installation
Now you can start installing the railing. It is more expedient to buy ready-made balusters and handrails, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, their price is small - the cost of curly pine balusters starts at an average of 100 rubles apiece.
The installation process of balusters and railings looks like this:
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Materials. To equip the railing you will need:
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Installation of dowels for balusters:
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Installation of balusters. The instruction looks like this:
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Preparing balusters for handrail installation. trim upper part columns at an angle equal to the angle of inclination of the flight of stairs. |
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Fastening handrails to the outer posts:
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Fastening handrails to intermediate balusters.
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The process of manufacturing a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that's left is to do the finishing touches.
Stage 5: finishing
Usually in the process finishing do-it-yourself wooden stairs are varnished, stained or impregnated. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:
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Materials. For finishing you will need:
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Puttying:
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Sanding:
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Dust removal. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth. |
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Varnishing:
It is desirable to cover a wooden staircase with a matte varnish or impregnation. Covered with a glossy varnish can be slippery and unsafe to move around. |
As you can see, stairs to the second floor are made quite simply, so for their manufacture it is enough to have basic woodworking skills.
Conclusion
We have considered the process of making stairs with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can get to work on your own. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of work - write comments, and I will be happy to help you.