Fastening the steps of a wooden staircase with corners. Fastening steps to the elements of the stairs. How to fasten wooden steps to a metal stringer

Frame stairs are becoming more and more in demand and popularity. Undoubtedly, this is due to the fact that, in addition to strength and durability, they can be made in countless different shapes and designs. This article will be of interest to those who set out to make not just a typical staircase, but a real highlight of their home.

Choosing wooden stairs on a metal frame, you make a choice in favor of practicality, reliability and modernity. Huge dignity frame technology there are its adaptive properties, first you can make the frame of the stairs with your own hands, with the expectation that it will fit into the overall design idea of the room, or you can build a draft version of the frame, and later, cover it with a suitable material.

The combination of metal with wood is one of the most successful design solutions regarding the interior. Due to the successful combination of beauty and strength, wood and / or metal structures are popular with builders and owners. country cottages. This is one of the rare moments when builders and owners, relying on their tastes and preferences, clearly agree on one thing, the choice of wooden stairs on a metal frame.

metal ladder with wood trim will create an original atmosphere and interior in a classic or old style in the house. The possibility of decorating with forged and wooden elements is a real work of art that will give any room a true noble and respectable look.

The graceful metal staircase, decorated with wooden steps, has the appearance of a swift and light, while remaining reliable and durable construction able to withstand significant loads over many years of operation. Metal is the strength, durability of the stairs, and steps made of wood are comfort and style. The metal ladder and wooden steps guarantee the convenience of descending and / or ascending for all members of your family, including the elderly, children and pets.

We make the calculation of the metal frame of the stairs

Wooden stairs on a metal base are made of light or durable grades of metal, an important indicator of which is corrosion resistance. The technology for building wooden stairs with a metal frame involves partial or complete sheathing of visible metal surfaces with wood.

Having set a goal to independently design and build a staircase, it is important, first of all, to perform an accurate calculation of the metal frame of the staircase, so that unpleasant moments do not arise in the future.

The main indicator from which all calculations of the ladder frame are based is based on the width of the human step.

On average, this figure is 57-64 centimeters. Based on the above indicated indicator, the ratio of the step and the riser is determined.

S is the width of the step,
P is the riser height.

The formula will be:

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the formula for the ease of use of stairs:

As well as the formula for the safety condition:

All quantities cannot be taken into account separately from each other, it is important to grow, taking into account all design parameters, and for this it is necessary to make a clear analysis of the initial data.

Sheathing the metal frame of the stairs with a tree with your own hands

The most popular finishing method for minimal cost is the installation of wooden steps to the frame of a metal staircase. And the remaining visible parts of the structure are simply painted in a suitable color, as a result, the metal staircase looks quite harmonious and natural.

If we talk about the complete sheathing of the metal frame of the stairs with wood, then the process includes finishing:

understair space,
steps,
risers,
imitation of a wooden string.

After such a "disguise", the metal frame becomes invisible, and the staircase is visually indistinguishable from the wooden one.

For the design of exclusive stairs, precious wood is used:

The above tree species have high aesthetic and operational properties.

The hardness of oak wood is several times higher than the hardness of pine wood, and is compared with the hardness of metal alloys. The natural material unique, and resistant to mechanical damage and wear. When choosing oak, the service life of the steps is equal to the resource of the frame itself.

Do-it-yourself installation of the metal frame of the stairs

As for installation and operation, wooden stairs on a metal frame are practically unpretentious. There are several options for installing them. If the owner decided to independently install the metal frame of the stairs in the house, he should take a closer look at the structures from prefabricated and prefabricated modules.

They have the appearance of a designer, and are represented by separate parts that are easily assembled into flights of stairs, connecting to each other in accordance with the attached instructions. These modules are manufactured industrial equipment according to the established state standards for wooden and metal structures of stairs. It is important to remember that such stairs require frequent care and special maintenance, to eliminate the occurrence of possible backlashes, tightening connections.

All stair structures are subject to periodic inspection and testing to ensure their safe operation.

Fastening wooden steps to a metal frame.

Basic moments:

In each step of the metal frame, a mark is made for two mounting holes, every 15-20 cm, we retreat from the edge of the tread by no less than 2 cm.
If the steps are fastened to the frame with ordinary self-tapping screws, then the holes in the metal frame are drilled into the "tip".
To compensate for stresses when tightening parts, fasteners with washers are used.

Even the highest quality metal frame can have slight height differences between the parts. In order for the wooden linings to adhere qualitatively to the surface, a substrate is laid on it. For fixing, which is used with ordinary mounting adhesive with a filler effect. It fills voids and forms a durable layer that is resistant to crushing.

The use of mounting foam in this option is absolutely excluded, the dried foam is capable of wrinkling, which leads to corrosion, loosening and creaking of the steps. The most reliable and popular material for the substrate is plywood.

Summing up, it is worth saying that a wooden staircase with a metal frame with one's own hands is perfect combination important points: durability of the metal structure and aesthetics wooden stairs. No other material has such warmth and attractiveness as wood. In addition to the aesthetic appeal, a wooden staircase pleasantly surprises with its accessibility. financial side. You will not find materials cheaper and more reliable.

This article will show you how to fasten the steps to the metal frame of your staircase under construction in various combinations of fastening materials and overall construction, i.e. for stairs on bowstrings or stringers.

To begin with, it is worth deciding which steps will have to be fixed. In most cases, the material for the manufacture of steps is wood, and for the self-assembly of stairs, it is it that is the main one, although companies specializing in stair production and installation make steps from glass, stone, and various polymers.

Technologically, fastening is reduced to the choice of the method of fixing the step plate on a rigid or slightly movable metal frame. If the structure uses powerful stringers (under flights of stairs) or bowstrings (from the sides of the flight of stairs), then the step is less subject to dynamic loads (except for the bending of the step itself under the weight of a person), and with lighter structures, for example, stairs on welded stringers made of profile pipe, dynamic loads are greater. It is precisely because of the mobility of the ladder elements that glue is not used in these connections, except in cases of mounting on a solid monolithic surface.

Steps can be attached

furniture bolts;
self-tapping screws;
futorka;
Fisher fasteners.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with furniture bolts

Fastening steps with furniture bolts

The easiest and most reliable way to install treads to the base. In this case, the step is drilled through with a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt body and the base (corner shelf or stringer body). The wide head of the furniture bolt (anodized, galvanized or painted) hides minor defects when drilling, and its profiled part under the head fixes it from turning when tightening. During installation, the nut must not be tightened more than allowed, because.

the metal head of the bolt will simply push through the solid wood.

The disadvantages of this method include the presence of a bolt head on the step surface, especially if fastening is carried out according to an asymmetric pattern and the need to access the riser space to tighten the nut, which is not always possible. P.s. Sometimes in these cases, bolts with an ordinary head and a wide washer can be used, but when a thread is cut in the base (kosour or corner), a threaded sleeve (nut) is welded in and a hole is made in the surface of the step with a diameter sufficient to use the key head of the desired size. For this option, you can pre-select flat plastic furniture plugs of the required diameter and color.

Advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and fastening speed; availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, dismantling, replacement of treads).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with self-tapping screws

Fastening steps with self-tapping screws

The installation of steps with self-tapping screws is good because all the fastening elements are located in the riser and the external decorative finish does not suffer.

It is advisable to use powerful self-tapping screws with a deep cross-shaped or hexagonal groove for fasteners in order to prevent the groove from licking when tightened.

Now roofing screws are often used for fastening steps, which have a hexagonal head and a tip in the form of a drill. It is worth paying attention to the fact that such self-tapping screws are produced for wood and metal and differ in the diameter of the drill (thinner for wood).

How to fasten wooden steps to a metal stringer?

If the installation is carried out through the wall of the profile pipe of the metal frame, then there is a natural desire to use roofing screws for metal and immediately pierce the metal and wood of the steps, but it should be understood that for a wood screw, the drill diameter is much smaller than the diameter of the turns, which provides a good screw engagement area in an array of boards, unlike a self-tapping screw for metal.

Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are convenient to use in the case of a visible lower surface of the stairs. At the same time, in metal structures, sweat is immediately made under a cone-shaped hat. It is worth noting that if the steps are not made of pine (relatively softwood), and from larch, beech, ash or oak, then to screw in a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5-6 mm, you will need to make preliminary holes in steps with a diameter of 3-4 mm (along the diameter of the main body of the self-tapping screw - where there is no thread), otherwise the self-tapping screw will not be completely screwed in.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with a futorka

Futorka for fixing steps

Let's make it clear right away that a futorka is a metal sleeve with internal and external threads. This method of fastening the steps can be attributed to the optimal in terms of stealth of mounting elements and ease of installation, dismantling of treads, but at the same time it can only be used for dense wood species, it is rather laborious, it requires stationary preparation and strict compliance with the drawings, because You can't fix anything on the spot. In addition, the steps can be fastened with a futor to the metal frame both from below (on the corner shelf or kosour), and from the side to the end (string). It is this method or its analogue that is used in modern staircase construction by large firms, for example, the German company KENNGOT. They have construction ladders with wood, acrylic, stone treads and threaded bushings for field assembly.

Technologically, a futorka is taken with an external thread diameter of about 20-22 mm and an internal thread of 8-10 mm (on the forums they write about using a conventional stud with an M20 thread in which a hole is drilled and a thread is cut), in a step with a cutter (the cutter does not have a large cone-shaped part ) a hole of the required depth is made and a thread is cut. Such a large diameter is justified by the need for a sufficient depth of thread grooves in wood for a reliable connection of parts. Using glue (for example, Kleiberit Supratac), the futorka is screwed into solid wood. Now the steps can simply be screwed (more than once) to them with an ordinary bolt or a stud with a decorative cap nut.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with Fisher fasteners

Fixing a step to a corrugated pipe (Fisher)

A fairly new method of fastening based on the use of a Fisher polymer fastener, on one side of which there is a large-diameter sleeve with a hole in the center and conical notches that work like a herringbone (it easily clogs into the hole, but resists exit), and on the other - a sleeve , revealing when screwing inside the self-tapping screw.

Before installation, cores from the kit are placed in the holes on the metal frame, the steps fall into place and the marks are pressed through. The steps are rolling. Then the Fisher mounts are installed in their nests, unfastened with self-tapping screws and a step is placed on them. Unfortunately, personal experience there was no use of such fasteners for stairs, so it is still difficult to say how this fastening behaves, but it is obvious that the dismantling of the step in this case will most likely smooth out the polymer slots and they will need to be replaced. In addition, it is hard to believe that a plastic sleeve will stay in a wooden nest for the entire life of the ladder. Most likely, under the influence of vibrations and distorting loads, the steps will loosen these fasteners. Perhaps they can be strengthened using glue.

What should I pay attention to when choosing a step mounting option?

The choice of mounting option should be made at the stage of development of the stairs.

When designing a metal frame, it is determined whether the lower part of the stairs will be open, whether there will be access from the bottom of the steps, whether mounting elements will be painted or painted, and whether it is important that there are no elements (bolt heads or furniture plugs) on the step surface.

When building a staircase with your own hands, a structure of channels (stringers) and a corner (steps, bundles) is often welded. This option is easier to sew from below decorative material. Drill the corners under the steps from above, and then twist from below with roofing screws.

For option modern stairs on stringers made of a profile pipe, repeating the shape of a staircase, long M8-10 furniture bolts can be used, piercing through the step and stringer, with a decorative galvanized nut from below. It is possible to order steps with footings, but must be 100% sure of the dimensions. Also for the version with self-tapping screws, you can profile pipe the stringer can be drilled from above a little more than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, and from below with a diameter of 12-13, where furniture plugs can then be installed. A self-tapping screw (with a body with a diameter of 5-6 mm) is screwed in from below with a magnetized screwdriver or a screwdriver with a flexible nozzle. A screwdriver, as a rule, stretches screws better.

In any case, you need to try to design the stairs so that the step lies on the shelf of the corner, channel or professional pipe and is attracted to them by the fastening, and does not hang on the point fasteners. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in a tree, and therefore, after the construction of a staircase, many serious companies recommend re-stretching the entire structure after a year or two.

Staircase on a metal frame. Soundproofing experience

22/06/2009 22:19:58

The designs of stairs are different and, depending on the materials used, they are most often divided into wooden, metal and concrete (stone). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. When designing a staircase, it is necessary, first of all, to consider such properties as price, aesthetic side (beauty), load on structures, practicality (wear resistance, noise generated when walking, etc.). In this article, I will not consider design features stair design, such as angle of inclination, riser height and tread width, etc. There are many books and materials on the Internet on this topic. Suppose the conditions allow us to mount a comfortable staircase that meets all the requirements of the "convenience and safety formulas." What material to choose?

Traditionally, wood is used for the construction of stairs. Wood is a warm material, has a beautiful appearance, it is pleasant to walk on it. A ladder made of wood is quite light, which means it does not create an excessive load on the supporting structures. However, the tree also has disadvantages. First of all, it is a creak and noise when walking. Of course, a staircase made of precious wood, made according to all standards, as a rule, does not dry out and does not creak, but it is very expensive. Inexpensive stairs are most often made of pine and spruce (often not dried enough), which means that over time such a staircase will lose its initial geometric parameters and begin to creak. In addition, pine and spruce are soft rocks and are subject to mechanical damage. Birch, oak, beech and more expensive wood species are much more resistant to mechanical stress, but are two, three or more times more expensive than coniferous species.

Often used in homes concrete stairs. Sometimes they buy factory flights of stairs, but more often they make a metal frame, arrange formwork and pour concrete right on the spot. Structurally, concrete stairs can be anything, if you correctly calculate the load, reinforcement and grade of concrete. Concrete stairs are the quietest when walking, but very heavy. It is impossible to rely on massive concrete stairs simply on floor slabs. Concrete stairs must be supported load-bearing structures. In addition, concrete stairs require additional cladding. Most often used as cladding ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, but also a natural stone and tree.

Another type of stairs - metal. More precisely, purely metal stairs in houses are rarely used. Most often we are talking about stairs on a metal frame. Stringers or bowstrings are made from channels (12-18), and the bases for steps are made from a corner (most often the 40th), which is welded to the channels. Steps for such stairs are made of wood or metal. The advantages of metal stairs are many. First, it's fairly light weight. Such stairs can be supported on floor slabs. Secondly, metal stairs are strong enough and can withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, they do not lose their properties over time. The disadvantages are rather inherent not in the metal frame itself, but in the lining. The steps made of their pines on a metal frame also begin to creak over time. To minimize this process, the steps to the metal frame are not attached directly, but through plywood. Plywood 10-12 mm thick is attached to the metal frame on bolts with a countersunk head, and wooden steps with a thickness of at least 40 mm are glued to the plywood with liquid nails. Thus, plywood performs several functions at once - it acts as a reinforcement that takes on the load, distributes the load, and also hides the load-bearing fasteners. The metal frame is also good because the steps can be replaced over time (for example, pine with African mahogany) without any difficulties. However, it is worth mentioning the most important disadvantages of stairs on a metal frame - noise. Steps on such a ladder will be heard by all households, even if a cat is walking up the stairs.

The higher the weight of the wooden cladding, the less the metal frame knocks. Thus, in order to soundproof a metal structure, it must be loaded with something. Steps, risers, balusters, poles, railings. All this is understandable. Can anything else be done? I also asked the same question. The name of the car soundproofing experience, I decided to apply my knowledge in the field of construction. When it comes to soundproofing a metal structure, metal vibration isolation technology is usually used, damping vibrations created in the metal. After all, any sound is a process of vibrations and friction. In order to isolate the stairs from vibration, I decided to use the materials I tested from the StandardPlast company. Before that, I worked with such materials as Vibroplast, Vizomat, Vizomat MP. But the company introduced new material under the brand name Bimast. I decided to use the most expensive material, Bimast Bomb, 4 mm thick, which, according to the manufacturer, fights vibroacoustic noise better than other materials. But I actually chose this material only for the simple reason that it is the heaviest in the StandardPlast line of materials. In addition, Bimast does not require additional heating and cuts well.

Bimast Bomb consists of two layers - elastic bituminous mastic and heavy bituminous material. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Considering the material, I got the impression that Bimast Bomb is Vibroplast and Vizomat MP glued together, which is probably not entirely true.

To begin with, I decided to paste over the kosour - channel from the inside. To do this, I carefully washed the channel from rust and degreased it with white spirit. The material cuts really well. For order, I warmed the mastic a little with an ordinary household hair dryer and began to glue it. When I pasted over almost the entire channel, I began to compare (by tapping) the sound of the processed channel and the unprocessed one.

The result, of course, was, but minimal. The Bimast Bomb didn't noticeably reduce footstep noise, although there was a slight reduction in vibration levels with light tapping. The thing is that the weight of the material in relation to the eighteenth channel was insignificant. Only one sheet of Bimast Bomb weighing a couple of kilograms left for a 3.5-meter long channel. This amount was not enough to effectively dampen a thick channel. In addition, the lion's share of the noise was created by the corners, and not by the channel bar itself.

Or maybe the material is bad? When I had a roll of Uniflex material left from the waterproofing of the foundation, I put it on the soundproofing of metal window sills. Ebb tides pounded during the rain like empty cans, and when I pasted the ebbs on the inside with Uniflex heavy bituminous material, and also put the ebbs on mounting foam, I realized what silence is in the house. Even during a heavy downpour, I saw only water on the glass, but did not hear the noise of falling drops. The Uniflex material also had a thickness of 4 mm, but its weight was slightly larger.

In principle, it is not necessary to buy expensive branded materials for soundproofing. Any heavy bituminous materials are suitable for vibration isolation, because vibrations are damped mainly by weight. So, Uniflex is in no way inferior to Bimast Bomb in terms of efficiency, however, it is worth noting that waterproofing material no adhesive layer. It won't just stick to metal. It needs to be melted down! It is desirable to prime the surface with a bituminous primer. I welded the material of the usual gas burner Kovea.

In all photographs, the staircase is without cladding, with temporary steps.

From experience I can say that on horizontal and vertical surfaces such vibration isolation keeps more or less, but when the material is glued to the metal from below, it usually falls off within six months or a year. 😉

Bimast Bomb or Vizomat MP?

I did another experiment. The second channel of the flight of stairs was processed with the familiar material Vizomat MP 2.7 mm thick. Vizomat MP without measurements is visually really thinner than Bimast "a, lighter and more rigid. It is more difficult to cut Vizomat MP with scissors. Vizomat MP must be warmed up well with a hair dryer. Vizomat MP is glued to metal worse. And the result turned out to be worse. The sound from hitting metal of different intensity is muffled on the channel that is treated with Bimast Bomb As a result, Bimast Bomb is really the best material in the StandardPlast product line, although it is 25% more expensive at retail.

Thus, I would like to conclude my research. The cost of soundproofing channels acting as stringers is not comparable with the result.

However, the work is not finished yet. You need to find out if it makes sense to paste over the corners that act as a frame for steps and risers. After all, it is they who create the lion's share of the noise.

And some more theory

Just in case, for those who are interested, I will indicate several parameters for the competent calculation of the stairs.

Riser - step height
Tread - step width
The optimal slope of the stairs is 30-35 degrees
The slope of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees
Double riser height + step width must be between 57-65 cm
The sum of the width and height in the optimal staircase should be 45-46 cm (ladder safety formula)
The optimal step width is 28-30 cm (at least 25 cm)
Riser height 14-17 cm (no more than 20 cm)
The difference between the width and height of the step should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)
The height from the plane of the stairs to the ceiling must be at least 2 m.
The number of steps in the staircase should be odd (from which foot we enter the stairs, we exit with this)

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2016-03-15 14:23:05 | Tatiana Borzova
Andrew, can I ask you a question? House blocks yutong 375, I already wrote that I confirm all your comments about this material, in an article about the shortcomings of this material and what the sellers are silent about. Metal frame ladder, how did you attach it? I have wood joist floors. I want to put it on the main foundation, the design of the house allows me to make a wall in the wall and support 4 racks, a reversal landing, on the foundation.

2016-03-05 23:00:06 | Alexander
Ringing means playing. Additional boil some kerchief from the inside for rigidity. I have a similar design, well, a slightly different weld, but the idea is the same. If you remove the turning part of the stairs, the straight part Channel 12 wall 1 cm. Length 4.5 M. Step corner 5 wall thickness 5 mm. At the top, the ladder is welded to an I-beam. So despite the fact that there is only one metal around, nothing rattles. Achieve rigidity and there will be happiness.

2016-01-06 07:17:07 | SAU
I have a design of steps from corners like Andrei's, but there is no ringing or vibration when walking. A five is screwed on top of the corners with self-tapping screws from below, and on top of the five there is a carpet.

Most likely there is no ringing and vibration due to the fact that additional supports from a square profile are welded in the middle under the channels.

2014-06-01 15:23:23 | Andrey_K
Agree with Paladin! Such a design really contributes to good acoustics) However, as I think, a heavy channel contributes to it even more. I have been racking my brains over the stairs for a long time - to put them up soon. But I will make stringers from a thin metal profile, from the same one from which the frame is made - it will be much easier. True, there are some nuances - I will also fasten them rigidly - to the frame. but I think to use rubber gaskets in the attachment points. Much will depend on the material of the steps - its acoustic properties, but I really want to make the steps and the span platform transparent. As for bitumen and bituminous materials - so much of this goodness surrounds us in real life that I tried to avoid their use inside the house. As vibro- and hydraulic decouplings (1 to 2), I used (as far as I know the only ones in Russia) materials from a plant in Nizhny (like) Novgorod (Abris). Their feature and advantage is that synthetic rubber is used as the main material. The materials are not cheap - the toad did not just choke ...) But, in my humble opinion, and, as the British testify, "I am not so rich as to buy cheap things" (Russian v-t "A miser pays twice"). So I had to be patient :)

2013-09-23 23:05:01 | Andrey_B
Eugene, do you always take everything literally or sometimes you try to understand?
1. The formula of convenience and 12 cm - this is not about the stairs as a whole, but about the steps.
2. You can call anything you like a riser. I personally don't mind. But take my word for it, not all stairs are made of wood. In simple words, the most ordinary staircase from concrete, as in the entrances. Where did the thickness of the material go, huh? And where is her riser?
3. The optimal slope is a subjective concept. I have 4 stairs at home. In my life I have no difficulties with either 20 degrees or 45 degrees. But from my point of view (supported, by the way, by theory), 30-35 degrees is the most convenient angle. If it seems to you that this is not so and your opinion is the only correct one, I see no reason to discuss it.

2013-09-23 18:53:21 | Evgeniy
"The difference between the width and height of the stairs should be about 12 cm (ladder convenience formula)" - how is it, I have a ladder 295 cm high and what should be its width according to your calculation ??? even scary to imagine!

Fastening of stair steps depends on the design of the stairs and the materials used, the covering of the steps and load-bearing elements, the planned exterior finish. Consider possible options fastening wooden steps in stairs made of wood.

There are two main designs of wooden stairs: on stringers and with bowstrings. For a quick understanding: stringers are the load-bearing elements on which steps attached to the top, a strings mounted on the sides of the stairs and steps are attached between them or between a string and a wall.

Fastening the steps of a wooden staircase to the stringer

In kosour stairs, the kosour perceives the entire load-bearing load, so the fastening of the feet solves two problems - fixing the step from displacement and vibration, as well as hiding the fact of fastening in open, visible structures.

by the most simple option installation is the drilling of steps and fastening through with powerful self-tapping screws to the stringer. Self-tapping screws are used with decorative heads, they are screwed in or the surface of the step is drilled to a shallow depth with a large drill and a decorative polymer cap is installed. This type of fastening is often used in do-it-yourself stairs. It is worth paying attention to the fact that steps should be drilled only with pen drills at high drill speeds, which will prevent chips at the mouth of the hole.

In open stairs without sheathing, steps can be installed in a hidden way using cotter pins. In this case, the tread and kosour are drilled exactly in size to the diameter of the cotter pins and put on glue. This option is not suitable for dynamically movable stairs with a stringer of a small section or steps that are too wide, which will bend under load and destroy the adhesive joint.

In stairs for sheathing, the step can be fixed through a bar or corner made of metal, fixed in the right places on the inside of the stringer. The photo shows a variant of fastening using a tie rod with a threaded tread and a sheet (for example, plywood) hemmed from below.

Fastening the steps of a wooden staircase to the bowstring

The main ways of attaching steps to bowstrings:

support bar under the step, fixed on the bowstring;
a metal bracket for a step, screwed with screws or bolts through to the bowstring;
overlay or surf on inner part bowstrings, according to the principle of a zigzag stringer;
selection of grooves for steps in the bowstring (exactly in size or for the option of wedging the tread and riser during assembly).

The first two options for fastening the steps to the stairs on bowstrings can be attributed to the most low-cost and often used in the independent manufacture of stairs. However, for greater security, the third and fourth options are preferable.

Bars, brackets or linings can only be used in the construction of stairs for sheathing. In transparent, not sheathed stairs, it is necessary to hide the fact of fasteners and the grooves do an excellent job of this task, in addition, transferring the entire load from the steps directly to the bowstring.

Fastening steps of a wooden ladder to the wall

In some cases, it is more practical to fasten one side of the tread to a kosour or bowstring, and fasten the second directly to the wall. This is the most popular method of fastening for stairs on bolts that have become fashionable today, when the steps on one side are pulled together with metal studs, bushings (bolts) and a handrail with racks into a single whole, and the second side is mounted on the wall.

Fastening wooden steps to the wall can be done by embedding them into the wall (this is labor-intensive, depending on the thickness of the supporting wall + with a small embedment depth, the niche will gradually break when walking up the stairs) or by laying on a supporting element (bar, corner, decorative turned element) directly attached to the wall. Usually, anchors, embedded studs or powerful self-tapping screws are used for fastening if the wall is wooden.

In bolt ladders, a variant is used when a corner with a shelf from below is attached to the wall with anchors with the dimensions of the end of the step. In the steps, the lower plane is milled to the depth and width of the corner shelf + holes are drilled from the end with a feather drill to hide the nuts of the anchors.

However, the most beautiful stairs are obtained from specialists in their field who have gained experience on real objects, and who understand how many little things arise during their installation and operation in the process of life. Beautiful examples of wooden stairs can be viewed on the website http://lestnichnik.com.ua/, and if someone wishes, they can order such a staircase for their home. These are solid works of art, combining the graceful chiselling of balusters, carved decorative ornaments supporting pillars and handrail finishing, solid monolithic tinting with a soft coating of varnish that conveys all the charms of the natural structure of wood.

Bowstring stairs are often installed in multi-level apartments and in private houses. This traditional stair design is different from other options high level reliability, and, in some cases, attractive appearance. For experienced craftsmen installation of stairs on bowstrings does not present any problem.

But, at self-fulfillment work, you will need a photo or video installation instructions to minimize the number of questions that arise during installation. In addition, you should study in advance all the features of fastening and marking, as well as the basic rules for their arrangement. Consider not only the essence of the concept, but also existing species structures, as well as possible technologies for their self-manufacturing.

Types of stairs

Bowstrings - side elements of the ladder structure that hold the steps and act as limiters. It is worth noting that in different form bowstrings are present in almost all designs.

What is a bowstring and how is it different from a kosour

Variety of models:

Attached. The simplest option of all possible. Most often used in suburban areas. It includes only a few elements: transverse crossbars (steps) and side bowstrings. Anyone can make such a ladder with their own hands. A video instruction recorded by experienced craftsmen can help with this.
Folding attic. This model has two sections. In this case, the bowstring is folded. Loops, carriages and other fasteners are used as connecting elements.
Screw. One of the most complex structures. The bowstring is located on the outside. Such models made of wood look very impressive.
Marching. The most common design. The bowstring in this case form a march and hold the steps.

Mounting options for steps

From the side it may seem that the stairs on the bowstrings look monotonous and uncomplicated. But, this is far from the case. There are a huge number of options for their design.

In order to choose the best installation option, you should study possible ways installation steps:

Sliding steps are not just inserted into pre-made grooves, but gently slide into them. The cut recess should not only have an entrance for the steps, but also an exit to the outside. In these designs, the treads can be dismantled without disassembling the entire staircase structure.
Mortise steps - a standard technique for connecting treads and risers. A hole is cut in advance in the bowstring, into which a step is then hammered. In order to make grooves, you should use manual frezer. If there is no router, then you can take a chisel and a hammer. But, this method takes a lot of time. After the steps are fixed on one bowstring, the second element should be filled from the other edge.
The use of corners. This method involves the use of additional elements. In order not to waste time cutting corners, you can attach metal corners to the sidewalls. It is for these additional elements in the future, treads will be attached.

Bowstring for stairs: features of fastening and marking

If you plan to build a staircase with mortise steps, then the grooves are made from the inside. Their depth should be in the range of 1.5 to 2 centimeters. After that, risers and treads are carefully inserted into the grooves. When working on your own, remember that the bowstring should have cutouts with even edges and the same depth.

Pay attention to marking the relative position of the grooves on the two support beams. If it is uneven, then in the future an unexpected distortion of the staircase structure may occur.

Experts recommend in such cases to make special templates cut from a thin sheet of plywood. To prevent the bowstring from turning into a kosour, the guides should be fixed at a distance of 50 millimeters from the pre-marked line.

The marking for the grooves is as follows. Longitudinal lines are drawn on the inside of the beam. From the edges of the beam, they should recede by 50 millimeters. If such a need arises, then this distance can be reduced to 30 millimeters. Further ready template gently moves along the edge with the help of guides. The location of the steps is marked with a pencil.

Remember that when marking the bowstring of one ladder structure, the location of the grooves must be completely mirrored.

The lower and upper parts of the support beams must completely coincide with the levels of the floors. But this coincidence will be vertical or horizontal, it directly depends on the type of structure.

Experts who know all the features of fastening and marking do not recommend quickly sawing off excess ends. It is possible that they will be needed for tapping into a special support beam during final installation.

In order to get a reliable and very durable staircase on a bowstring, the fastening of the side elements is best done with the help of rods. It can be a wooden band on bolts or wedges, as well as a metal band on nuts. Tie rods are installed from two edges of the stairs and in its central part. These elements make it possible to avoid undesirable extension of the sidewalls, which occurs when walking on steps and with a high load on them.

DIY installation instructions

Determine the height of the structure, its dimensions and the number of steps. In order for you to get a bowstring, take a wooden stick of the required thickness. As noted above, cutting grooves should be done using templates.

When cutting grooves yourself, copy the marks from the template to the workpiece. Wood is processed with a special milling cutter with a nozzle of the required diameter.

After that, fix the inner bowstring at the construction site and connect all the elements of the steps. When the work is completed, on the second side, press the elements of the steps with another bowstring and gently tamp. Using glue and nails, you can make the structure more durable and reliable in use.

By installing strands, you can prevent unwanted loosening of the ladder structure. The strands are mounted at the rate of one per 5 steps.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that it is not so difficult to design a bowstring for a staircase with your own hands, as it might seem at first glance. Before using the ladder structure for its intended purpose, you should make sure that the fasteners are strong.

If necessary, additional vertical support elements can be installed. For this purpose, metal tubes or wooden beams are suitable. Models of stairs look interesting, which are mounted to the ceiling with the help of suspensions.

As for the fences, they can be installed both on the bowstring and on the steps themselves. It all depends on your aesthetic preferences. If you are not sure that you can do the job yourself, even with the help of video instructions, then it is better to contact specialists. The company "Stairs Master" employs masters who will perform all the tasks assigned to them not only quickly, but also with high quality. Such a bowstring for stairs is guaranteed to be reliable, durable and aesthetically attractive.

A ladder is a real constructor that can be assembled in several ways from different or identical elements, using different fastening methods and materials. And in most cases, the "constructor" can be assembled independently.

Stair elements

The main and obligatory leaving are supports, steps and railings. The shape of the elements is noticeably different.

Kosour - a supporting inclined sawtooth beam, to which treads are attached. It can be one or more, steps are installed on it from above.
The bowstring is an inclined straight beam, but at the same time the tread is fixed between two supports.
Step - a flat element of the stairs, which is supported during movement.
Railing - stair railing.

The methods of attaching elements to each other can be different, therefore, for example, load-bearing beams, despite their role as a support, may be absent altogether.

Wall - treads can be installed in a load-bearing wall. On the opposite side of the stairs, the steps are fastened together with bolts.
Modules - a connecting element that fastens the treads together and acts as a support beam. For this design, the support on the wall is made partially.
Frame - metal structure, consisting of a carrier beam with a minimum width of 12–18 cm, and stepped bases

Mounting steps on the kosour and bowstring

Bearing beams are an indispensable component of wooden stairs, therefore, connection methods are described for wooden elements.

The fixation of the tread on the beam depends on the method of its manufacture.

In a board of the appropriate size, zigzag ledges are cut according to the calculations. Holes are made in the treads, then the stepped elements are installed on the stringers and fixed with screws. From above, the screws are covered with wooden plugs. In the photo - the traditional way of installation on the kosour.
You can do otherwise: attach rectangular supports to the spikes to the support beam, and then mount treads on the supports.

Other methods are used to fix the elements to the bowstring.

On the inside of the board, grooves are cut 2-3 cm deep under the steps and risers, if they are provided for by the project. The product is assembled and then completely installed in the opening.
1. The groove may have open edges. In this case, the stepped element is pushed to the desired depth into the bowstrings already in place. In both cases described, a screed is recommended.
2. On the inside of the beam, additional supports are first mounted - wooden bars, a metal corner, and then treads are attached to the supports.

Installation of steps in the wall

The main condition is that the wall to which the installation is made must be load-bearing. Installation on partitions is not allowed.

Closing - grooves of the required depth are knocked out. Treads are inserted into the recesses with the end side and sealed with cement. This is the most reliable way, although it has one drawback: during the use of the stairs, the vibration is transmitted to the wall, so the sound of footsteps is heard throughout the house.
Mounting on brackets - holes are made for special anchors, steps are mounted to the latter through the brackets. In the photo - a variant of the cantilever staircase.
Installation through a wooden beam - used for wooden structures. A beam is attached to the wall, which essentially acts as a bowstring, and then treads are placed on it.

On the opposite side, the edges of the elements are connected with the help of bolts - metal threaded rods. This design looks very light, but at the same time it is reliable.

Installation of steps on a metal frame

Metal treads are rarely used. The technology of the installation itself is simple - metal product laid on the base and welded, but requires experience with welding machine. If this method is implemented in a private house, it is desirable to finish the stairs with soundproofing material.
Wooden treads can be attached to the metal base directly. But since wood, unlike metal, shrinks, it is recommended to use a substrate during installation. A piece of plywood 10-12 mm thick is bolted to the frame, and then to the substrate liquid nails fixed wooden surface. In the video, the method of attaching the tread to the frame is demonstrated in more detail.

Modular stairs

If you think that only a professional can cope with this task, then you are deeply mistaken. Having become familiar with the manufacturing technology, you will be able to make steps for stairs out of wood or any other material, even in the absence of experience.

Design and shape options

Step - main component flight of stairs. According to the recommendations of experts, the minimum allowable number of steps in a staircase is 3, and the maximum is 18. There are three main criteria that determine the type of steps.

By location:

Fascia - there are upper and lower. The first one ends the climb at the top level, and the second one starts it at the bottom.
Privates - all other steps that form a march.

Geometry:

Straight lines - ordinary elements having treads of equal depth along the entire length. The predominant number of mid-flight stairs consists of them, especially for direct ascents.
Runners - elements used in modeling turning marches. They are applied in screw structures and have unequal tread depths: narrower at the inner edge and wider on the opposite side.

Types of steps

Depending on the presence or absence of risers, stairs are:

Open - have steps in which there is only a horizontal part or tread. The spacing between structural elements is left blank.
Closed - have steps with risers.

In addition, the elements of the flight of stairs differ from each other in shape:

Direct. They look like a rectangle. This type not recommended for screw structures. You can attach such elements in any way.
Round are characterized by radial edges. They are often used to decorate the porch on the street and as the lowest step when climbing.
Semicircular steps are also used at the entrance to the house from the street. They have a semicircle on one side and a straight line on the other.
Trapezoidal elements form a structure spiral staircases and rotary models of stairs.

Steps are made from different materials: wood, concrete, metal, glass, brick, veneered plywood. According to experts, it is easiest to work with wood: blanks are made easily and tools for their manufacture are quite easy to use.

Types of wood for steps

Reliability, aesthetic appearance and durability of the elements directly depend on the characteristics of the material. The tree has the following requirements:

Structural homogeneity of wood fibers. There are no cracks, delaminations, knots and other defects on high-quality blanks.

Unacceptable raw material defects

Integrity. Before buying wood, you should pay attention to the fact that there are no rot and traces of wood-boring beetles on the blanks.
Humidity is within normal limits. This figure should not exceed 12%. Otherwise, the boards should be thoroughly dried before use, avoiding direct sunlight on them.

Elements that will be subjected to constant load are recommended to be made of solid wood. If this is not possible, then it is permissible to use glued laminated timber.

Different wood species are suitable for making steps with your own hands. But the most popular are:

Pine. It is an inexpensive and easily processed material. It is characterized by a low degree of hardness, therefore, when working with it, you can use the most common tools. In addition, pine is always available: it is not difficult to find lumber of the right size and shape. The disadvantage of pine products is considered to be low wear resistance and the appearance of yellowness on the tree a few years after installation.
Birch. Differs in durability and special textural drawing. Unlike pine, it is more difficult to process, but birch parts will last much longer. When using birch in construction, the selection of blanks is of particular difficulty. It is almost impossible to find boards of large dimensions of a uniform color and without defects. Therefore, experts recommend pasting the composite structure with veneer.
Larch. Steps from this type of wood do not deform, do not shrink, do not rot due to the high content of tannins. The main disadvantage is the high price.
Beech. It is considered a more suitable material for stairs inside the house. Appearance blanks - beautiful color and texture. The main disadvantage of wood is its instability to temperature fluctuations and humidity. Even varnished beech blanks will change shape under the influence of natural factors.
Ash. It has a high degree of hardness, so it is perfect for the production of steps. However, due to the complex processing and bright texture, the material is not to everyone's taste.
Oak. Wooden steps for oak stairs - the best choice. Such steps will last for decades. The only disadvantage of this material is the high cost.

Calculation of stairs

Having decided on the material of the blanks, it is necessary to proceed with the calculations.

Geometrical parameters of steps

In the manufacture of steps, template dimensions are used:

The height of the step is equal to the length of the riser and varies from 150 to 220 mm.
The element depth is the length from the outer edge of the tread to the riser. It should be such that the foot is completely on the tread. The minimum depth is 25 cm, the maximum depth is 40 cm.

It should be noted that the depth of the step may not be the same along the entire length of the tread. This is observed in spiral and rotary models. It is larger on the outer edge than on the inside. The depth of the tread remains unchanged only in the center of the step. However, this disadvantage can be dealt with in two ways: use protruding steps or refuse risers.

The step width is the distance between the edges of the tread. This indicator depends on the intensity of traffic. Standard value is from 900 to 1000 mm. If the traffic is busy, then the flight of stairs can be increased to 1.5 m.
The thickness of the tread is in the ratio of 1:20 to the width of the step. So, with a width of 900 mm, the thickness of the tread will be 45 mm. It should be remembered, however, that the minimum permissible value tread thickness is 35 mm.
The thickness of the riser varies from 1.8 to 2.5 cm.

Based on the data obtained, the angle of inclination of the structure and the number of steps are calculated.

Optimum slope of stairs

The most convenient slope of the staircase structure is recognized as a slope from 23 to 37 degrees. The occupied usable area depends on the steepness of the structure. Naturally, steeper structures require significantly less space than for gentle ones.

Choosing a slope for a structure

Stairs with a slope of 45 degrees are difficult enough to climb, and if the slope is less than 23 degrees, they can be replaced with a ramp.

Calculation of the number of steps in the march

To get the exact number of steps in a staircase, you need to divide the floor height by the height of one step. The number of marches does not matter. It should also be noted that the floor height refers to the gap from the floor to the floor on the second floor, taking into account the thickness of the floor.

Knowing the staircase structure and the height of the upper floor, the number of steps can also be determined using graphic method. Then, using the safety formulas, find the width of the tread.

The dimensions of the steps must be taken based on the safety formula

Having decided on the scale, a flight of stairs is drawn on graph paper. The errors that appeared as a result of rounding are distributed to the frieze stage of the lower tier. All remaining steps are made the same size.

Riser Height Calculation

How to make steps out of wood with your own hands

Making steps for wooden stairs requires the following set of tools:

electric planer;
a circular saw;
grinding machine;
edge cutter.

Prepare templates of the desired size and transfer them to blanks. Then cut out the treads and risers. When performing this work, difficulties may arise only when cutting out the rotary steps due to their unconventional shape.

The received parts should be treated with protective equipment and then proceed with the installation.

Installation of wooden steps

There are four types of fastening steps of a wooden staircase:

Let's say you want to attach elements to stringers. Then the tread and riser are connected in one of the following ways:

screws;
using a groove that is cut into the tread at the intended junction with the riser;
by installing an auxiliary triangular rail that acts as a support.

Attachment to stringer

Whichever method you choose, it is recommended to additionally glue the parts to be joined to ensure greater strength.

In the case of fastening the stairs to the bowstring, they can be fixed with a bar, metal corner or groove.

The final stage after the installation of the steps is their finishing with a plinth.

Metal staircase with wooden steps

Wooden elements are attached to the metal base with holes made at a distance of 150 mm. In this case, it is necessary to make an indent from the edge of 20 mm.

A plywood backing will eliminate the errors that have arisen during welding metal elements

When welding metal components, errors could be made that caused minor height differences. In this case, to eliminate irregularities, a substrate is glued to the frame. For this, plywood 10 mm thick is suitable.

In order for the substrate to be securely fixed, self-tapping screws are additionally used. Mounting foam is not suitable for these purposes. After solidification, it will begin to crumble under the influence of the load, which will entail loosening of the steps.

The wooden tread is pressed against the plywood with clamps and fastened with self-tapping screws. In order for a staircase with a metal frame to have an attractive appearance, the masters advise making steps with ledges. They will hide an ugly metal frame.

Concrete stairs with wooden steps

Despite their strength, concrete structures cannot boast of beauty. Therefore, it is customary to laminate or decorate such structures with wood. Wood cladding is expensive, but the result is excellent.

Before proceeding with the installation of steps, you need to wait for the structure to dry completely. Otherwise, the skin will be saturated with moisture from raw concrete and deform further. The stairs should dry for at least three weeks.

After the concrete mixture has completely dried, you can proceed with the installation

The success of the operation largely depends on how carefully the formwork is prepared. But even in the best case, distortions and irregularities appear, which are easily eliminated with a screed. After it dries, the surface is cleaned and treated with a primer.

To completely level the concrete surface and create a moisture-proof layer, plywood sheets are glued onto a special mastic, and additional mount done with dowels.

Plywood levels out possible geometric inaccuracies of the concrete base

Having carried out the preparatory work, proceed to the installation of steps. Treads and risers are connected to each other by means of grooves made in all parts.

Install the steps begin with the lowest riser, which is bolted to the floor. They are screwed into the end of the part so that the hats stick out by 8 cm. Then they are cut off and marks are placed on the floor where they will stand.

Pin connection

Holes are made in the marked places and filled epoxy resin. In conclusion, the riser is attached. After that, a tread with another riser attached to it is placed on the plywood with glue. In order for the product to stick better, it is recommended to use a weight.

Steps for street entrance stairs

A neat ladder on the porch has not yet lost its relevance. For its manufacture, solid wood species are suitable, which are resistant to constant external influences. As a rule, it is oak, ash, maple, beech.

To protect against external influences, the street structure is treated with protective equipment.

For the design to serve faithfully long years, it must be protected from natural factors such as moisture and temperature extremes. The elements in contact with the ground are impregnated with oils, and the open surfaces of the steps are treated with drying oil and covered with paint or varnish.

Street stairs should be periodically inspected and, if necessary, eliminate rotten sections of the structure.

Wooden ladder construction

Facing the stairs on the street has its own specifics. During the construction of the porch, metal tabs are left in concrete, to which wooden steps will be attached in the future.

Treatment of steps with protective equipment

Now you know how to make your own wood stairs. Further, it is necessary to ensure their protection from damage, exposure to external and internal factors. For these purposes are intended special means. These include impregnations, varnishes and paints.

Impregnation protects wood from damage

Impregnation is a liquid that penetrates the wood structure and gives it certain properties. The most common are:

Fire fighting compounds that increase resilience wooden elements to high temperatures.
Antiseptics are products that protect the tree from fungi and bacteria. These compounds prevent rotting of the material even in conditions of high humidity.
Complex impregnations that simultaneously perform the functions of tinting and disinfection.

In order for the impregnation to be evenly distributed over the wooden workpiece and deeply impregnated, it is recommended to apply it to the products before installation.

Paintwork products are used already at the very last stage of work. The only exceptions are the components of the railing, which are more convenient to paint and varnish in disassembled form.

Alkyd and alkyd-urethane products are suitable for painting marches, enamels are suitable for railings, risers. Stairs indoors are usually varnished with alcohol with a matte or glossy composition. Stair structures from the street are treated with nitrocellulose agents.

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